From jandkstone99 at msn.com Sat Sep 1 14:18:17 2012 From: jandkstone99 at msn.com (Jim Stone) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2012 15:18:17 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Repairing Wrought Iron Railing Message-ID: My wife and I are about to buy a home that we will eventually retire to. The plan it to rent it out until that time, which is a factor in the question I am about to ask. The house (like me, built in the early 50's) has wrought iron railing around the front entry way and steps that go to a side door. It all needs to be repainted, but one of the vertical supports on the side steps has cracked about an inch above the base. It just appears to be square tube, but it was all cast in place, meaning the tube is embedded in the concrete. I will eventually want to replace all of it with something more attractive, but for now I just want it to be safe and not something that will lead to a lawsuit from a renter. I am thinking that I could wire brush the paint away from around the crack, clean off any rust and then weld the crack up. To be absolutely safe, I would also weld some angle iron on the two corners by the crack, repaint the whole railing and forget about it until after retirement. For what its worth, I don't want to lug shielding gas with me, so I was planning on just using flux core wire in my welder. It can be windy near the house, so that might be a good idea anyway. At least that is my plan, but I have never worked on wrought iron railing before. I know I can't weld the decorative parts of the railing, but does anyone see any problems with this plan? Anything special I should consider before tackling it? As always, thanks! Jim From bk13 at earthlink.net Sat Sep 1 15:03:00 2012 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Sat, 01 Sep 2012 14:03:00 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Repairing Wrought Iron Railing In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <50427804.6090100@earthlink.net> Jim, Did it crack because of rust? If so, it might take a bit more effort to go back to solid metal. I have two suggestions I was looking at for myself. One is to see them fix a porch railing at http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/tv/ask-toh/video/0,,20555837,00.html If I recall correctly, they took the railing and cut off the damaged bottom. They then had new square sections with a steel rod inside. They used some sort of caulk/adhesive and attached the repair portion to the bottom of the rail. They used a hammer drill to remove the railing post from the cement. Finally, they put the railing back in place with new cement. Another option is to fabricate a foot plate on a segment of square tube and use some concrete screws/bolts to attach it to the step. I'll be doing one of the two with some of my iron railing that is rusted away at the base. I just have not picked which one. If there is no rust, you may be able to just weld it up, but I can't offer any tips there as I only welded once. It was 3/16" steel to make shock brackets for my TR6, and they have held up nicely, but it did take some time with the grinder to get pretty. Brian On 9/1/2012 1:18 PM, Jim Stone wrote: > My wife and I are about to buy a home that we will eventually retire to. The > plan it to rent it out until that time, which is a factor in the question I am > about to ask. The house (like me, built in the early 50's) has wrought iron > railing around the front entry way and steps that go to a side door. It all > needs to be repainted, but one of the vertical supports on the side steps has > cracked about an inch above the base. It just appears to be square tube, but > it was all cast in place, meaning the tube is embedded in the concrete. I > will eventually want to replace all of it with something more attractive, but > for now I just want it to be safe and not something that will lead to a > lawsuit from a renter. > > I am thinking that I could wire brush the paint away from around the crack, > clean off any rust and then weld the crack up. To be absolutely safe, I would > also weld some angle iron on the two corners by the crack, repaint the whole > railing and forget about it until after retirement. For what its worth, I > don't want to lug shielding gas with me, so I was planning on just using flux > core wire in my welder. It can be windy near the house, so that might be a > good idea anyway. > > At least that is my plan, but I have never worked on wrought iron railing > before. I know I can't weld the decorative parts of the railing, but does > anyone see any problems with this plan? Anything special I should consider > before tackling it? > > As always, thanks! > > Jim > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net From kvacek at ameritech.net Sat Sep 1 16:23:57 2012 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2012 17:23:57 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Repairing Wrought Iron Railing Message-ID: <000901cd8890$7b153cf0$713fb6d0$@ameritech.net> Just be aware, if you're welding right along the concrete, that when welding heat hits the concrete, moisture in the concrete will quickly heat into steam and explode pieces of the concrete out - right at you. If the concrete is already cracked, maybe you'd be better off to break it away for an inch or two at least. If the concrete is still good, perhaps inserting a solid piece of steel down into the part of the upright that's left in the concrete and up into the part above-grade would be safer than welding. If you want to go for it anyway, try to shield the concrete as well as possible, and preferably preheat the railing in that area to drive off as much moisture as possible before you start actually welding. And if the railing is the current-type thin and cheap stuff, maybe slipping a tube or solid into the upright and also welding would be helpful, since a plain butt weld into thin and rusted steel will be weak. Karl -----Original Message----- From: Jim Stone Subject: [Shop-talk] Repairing Wrought Iron Railing My wife and I are about to buy a home that we will eventually retire to. The plan it to rent it out until that time, which is a factor in the question I am about to ask. The house (like me, built in the early 50's) has wrought iron railing around the front entry way and steps that go to a side door. It all needs to be repainted, but one of the vertical supports on the side steps has cracked about an inch above the base. It just appears to be square tube, but it was all cast in place, meaning the tube is embedded in the concrete. I will eventually want to replace all of it with something more attractive, but for now I just want it to be safe and not something that will lead to a lawsuit from a renter. I am thinking that I could wire brush the paint away from around the crack, clean off any rust and then weld the crack up. To be absolutely safe, I would also weld some angle iron on the two corners by the crack, repaint the whole railing and forget about it until after retirement. For what its worth, I don't want to lug shielding gas with me, so I was planning on just using flux core wire in my welder. It can be windy near the house, so that might be a good idea anyway. At least that is my plan, but I have never worked on wrought iron railing before. I know I can't weld the decorative parts of the railing, but does anyone see any problems with this plan? Anything special I should consider before tackling it? As always, thanks! Jim From jandkstone99 at msn.com Sat Sep 1 18:47:31 2012 From: jandkstone99 at msn.com (Jim Stone) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2012 19:47:31 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Repairing Wrought Iron Railing In-Reply-To: <000901cd8890$7b153cf0$713fb6d0$@ameritech.net> References: <000901cd8890$7b153cf0$713fb6d0$@ameritech.net> Message-ID: Thanks guys. The house is 1000 miles away, so I can't easily go take another look, but while the crack is rusty, I don't it cracked because of the rust. And, because I think it is close to 60 years old, I am going to assume it is thick enough to weld up. That, said, the This Old House way of doing it right is very good to know! I will go that route if my initial patch doesn't hold up. As for the concrete, that is a very important point, one I hadn't thought of. I will bring a gas torch with me to pre-heat the area, and a welding blanket to lay down around it, just for additional protection. The concrete is already cracked, but that is the second question I was going to ask. I will ask that one separately, so that the information will be easier for someone else to retrieve if they are ever looking. Thanks again! Exactly the advice I needed. > From: kvacek at ameritech.net > To: shop-talk at autox.team.net > Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2012 17:23:57 -0500 > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Repairing Wrought Iron Railing > > Just be aware, if you're welding right along the concrete, that when welding > heat hits the concrete, moisture in the concrete will quickly heat into > steam and explode pieces of the concrete out - right at you. If the > concrete is already cracked, maybe you'd be better off to break it away for > an inch or two at least. If the concrete is still good, perhaps inserting a > solid piece of steel down into the part of the upright that's left in the > concrete and up into the part above-grade would be safer than welding. > > If you want to go for it anyway, try to shield the concrete as well as > possible, and preferably preheat the railing in that area to drive off as > much moisture as possible before you start actually welding. And if the > railing is the current-type thin and cheap stuff, maybe slipping a tube or > solid into the upright and also welding would be helpful, since a plain butt > weld into thin and rusted steel will be weak. > > Karl > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Jim Stone > Subject: [Shop-talk] Repairing Wrought Iron Railing > > My wife and I are about to buy a home that we will eventually retire to. > The plan it to rent it out until that time, which is a factor in the > question I am about to ask. The house (like me, built in the early 50's) > has wrought iron railing around the front entry way and steps that go to a > side door. It all needs to be repainted, but one of the vertical supports > on the side steps has cracked about an inch above the base. It just appears > to be square tube, but it was all cast in place, meaning the tube is > embedded in the concrete. I will eventually want to replace all of it with > something more attractive, but for now I just want it to be safe and not > something that will lead to a lawsuit from a renter. > > I am thinking that I could wire brush the paint away from around the crack, > clean off any rust and then weld the crack up. To be absolutely safe, I > would also weld some angle iron on the two corners by the crack, repaint the > whole railing and forget about it until after retirement. For what its > worth, I don't want to lug shielding gas with me, so I was planning on just > using flux core wire in my welder. It can be windy near the house, so that > might be a good idea anyway. > > At least that is my plan, but I have never worked on wrought iron railing > before. I know I can't weld the decorative parts of the railing, but does > anyone see any problems with this plan? Anything special I should consider > before tackling it? > > As always, thanks! > > Jim > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jandkstone99 at msn.com From jandkstone99 at msn.com Sat Sep 1 19:02:02 2012 From: jandkstone99 at msn.com (Jim Stone) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2012 20:02:02 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Repairing a Concrete Step Message-ID: So, besides the broken railing, the corner of the step by that railing is broken. (Which may explain the broken railing: someone may have put too much weight on it and broken both the railing and the step.) It is still attached to the rest of the step, but the crack goes all the way around (creating a kind of pyramid shape) and I assume a good hammer blow will knock it off. I also want to fix that after I am finished repairing the railing. I have never done concrete repair before, but it doesn't look too difficult. I do think I would need some way to make sure the patch stays attached to the rest of the step. I spent some time looking at the Quickrete products at Home Depot today and see they have several different bonding agents that are designed to help. I was also thinking about doing something like putting a couple of lag bolts into the base, perhaps with lead anchors, sizing them so they would be completely encased in the new concrete. Then build a wood form around the area and pour in new concrete. Would that work? Is there a better way to do it? Thanks. From bk13 at earthlink.net Sat Sep 1 20:50:44 2012 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Sat, 01 Sep 2012 19:50:44 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Repairing a Concrete Step In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5042C984.7070902@earthlink.net> Jim - Home Depot and Quickrete have a series of videos on just that subject. See http://howto.homedepot.com/videos/watch/876670650001/How-to-Repair-Concrete-Steps-and-Edges-Using-Quikrete-Fast-Setting-Concrete-The-Home-Depot.html They also have a video on concrete resurfacing. Brian On 9/1/2012 6:02 PM, Jim Stone wrote: > So, besides the broken railing, the corner of the step by that railing is > broken. (Which may explain the broken railing: someone may have put too much > weight on it and broken both the railing and the step.) It is still attached > to the rest of the step, but the crack goes all the way around (creating a > kind of pyramid shape) and I assume a good hammer blow will knock it off. I > also want to fix that after I am finished repairing the railing. I have never > done concrete repair before, but it doesn't look too difficult. I do think I > would need some way to make sure the patch stays attached to the rest of the > step. I spent some time looking at the Quickrete products at Home Depot today > and see they have several different bonding agents that are designed to help. > I was also thinking about doing something like putting a couple of lag bolts > into the base, perhaps with lead anchors, sizing them so they would be > completely encased in the new concrete. Then build a wood form around the > area and pour in new concrete. > > Would that work? Is there a better way to do it? > > Thanks. > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net From eric at megageek.com Sat Sep 1 22:07:07 2012 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2012 00:07:07 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Charger sizing question Message-ID: Ok, I found a new Vector Sport Spot light (Model vec1395) 3000000 candle power flashlight. It's a cheap model, so I'm not expecting much, but I don't have a charger for it. Does anyone know how to calculate what size charger I need? The Battery is a lead acid 6V6AH/20HR battery. (It's model number is CP0660) So, what size charger do I need. There is a replacement one listed on Amazon, but it's not for this exact model (its for a Vec139 and I'm not sure if that will work with this one.) Thanks in advance! Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson From jandkstone99 at msn.com Sun Sep 2 07:17:25 2012 From: jandkstone99 at msn.com (Jim Stone) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2012 08:17:25 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Repairing a Concrete Step In-Reply-To: <5042C984.7070902@earthlink.net> References: , <5042C984.7070902@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Perfect! Exactly what I need and much easier than what I was thinking. Thanks Brian. > Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2012 19:50:44 -0700 > From: bk13 at earthlink.net > To: jandkstone99 at msn.com > CC: shop-talk at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Repairing a Concrete Step > > Jim - Home Depot and Quickrete have a series of videos on just that > subject. See > http://howto.homedepot.com/videos/watch/876670650001/How-to-Repair-Concrete-S teps-and-Edges-Using-Quikrete-Fast-Setting-Concrete-The-Home-Depot.html > > They also have a video on concrete resurfacing. > > Brian > > On 9/1/2012 6:02 PM, Jim Stone wrote: > > So, besides the broken railing, the corner of the step by that railing is > > broken. (Which may explain the broken railing: someone may have put too much > > weight on it and broken both the railing and the step.) It is still attached > > to the rest of the step, but the crack goes all the way around (creating a > > kind of pyramid shape) and I assume a good hammer blow will knock it off. I > > also want to fix that after I am finished repairing the railing. I have never > > done concrete repair before, but it doesn't look too difficult. I do think I > > would need some way to make sure the patch stays attached to the rest of the > > step. I spent some time looking at the Quickrete products at Home Depot today > > and see they have several different bonding agents that are designed to help. > > I was also thinking about doing something like putting a couple of lag bolts > > into the base, perhaps with lead anchors, sizing them so they would be > > completely encased in the new concrete. Then build a wood form around the > > area and pour in new concrete. > > > > Would that work? Is there a better way to do it? > > > > Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net From dmscheidt at gmail.com Sun Sep 2 12:18:10 2012 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2012 13:18:10 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] premade drawer box Message-ID: Our kitchen cabinets have a drawer missing. There's a front for it, there's nothing blocking the space, and there's no reason not to have one. (paricularly since the opening is 24" wide, and the other drawers are all narrow.) I'd like to buy a box, install it , and attach the existing front to it. Anyone have suggestions on where to get such a thing? None of the local big box places do. -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com From kvacek at ameritech.net Sun Sep 2 12:29:09 2012 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2012 13:29:09 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Fence cost Message-ID: <000901cd8938$d87f7ce0$897e76a0$@ameritech.net> Not actually shop related, but Its Sunday on a holiday weekend and I need to finish this job. Nobodys available to get a local quote. Can anyone give me an estimated cost differential for micro-mesh chain link fence fabric over regular fabric? What I need to value has about > or 5/8 fabric  probably 11 gauge, vs the more typical 2, 9 gauge wire. Like in hand grenades and horse shoes, close is good enough  any guess is fine. This is nothing anyone is quoting as a job  Im just appraising a property for a tax protest, and I havent ever run into this stuff till now. I only need to be reasonable and not pull the value from the air. Im supposing its probably double the installed cost, with a higher material cost and about the same labor? Thanks! Karl From ejrussell at mebtel.net Sun Sep 2 13:44:48 2012 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (ejrussell at mebtel.net) Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2012 15:44:48 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] premade drawer box Message-ID: <20120902154448.l4vw95aymnnk4c00@webmail2.centurytel.net> Quoting David Scheidt : > Our kitchen cabinets have a drawer missing. Perfect excuse (if you need an excuse...) to buy a table saw, router, dovetal jig & make a drawer... Or look at the ads in Fine Woodworking magazine - I've seen ads for places that sell drawer parts. Or send me some dimensions and I'll send you the parts to assemble for a drawer box. Eric Russell Mebane, NC From bk13 at earthlink.net Sun Sep 2 13:48:13 2012 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2012 12:48:13 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] premade drawer box In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5043B7FD.5070307@earthlink.net> David - If you want someone to make them, a local cabinetry place can probably do it. If you can do basic woodworking, some prefinished drawer sides may make it easier to do yourself. As an example see http://www.amazon.com/Pre-Finished-Drawer-Side-CAPITOL-LUMBER/dp/B0027A5VOQ (just took a quick look for "drawer sides") Local plywood/lumber suppliers may stock them. The sides are all precut for height and the plywood bottom, so all you need to do is make some cuts, attach the corners, and cut a bottom. You will also need slides of course. Brian On 9/2/2012 11:18 AM, David Scheidt wrote: > Our kitchen cabinets have a drawer missing. There's a front for it, > there's nothing blocking the space, and there's no reason not to have > one. (paricularly since the opening is 24" wide, and the other > drawers are all narrow.) I'd like to buy a box, install it , and > attach the existing front to it. Anyone have suggestions on where to > get such a thing? None of the local big box places do. From pat at hornesystemstx.com Sun Sep 2 13:56:06 2012 From: pat at hornesystemstx.com (Pat Horne) Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2012 14:56:06 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] premade drawer box In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5043B9D6.3010206@hornesystemstx.com> David, If you have access to a miter saw, or are good with a circular saw, you can make your own drawer box from material that Rockler sells (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=204&site=ROCKLER) All you need to do is make the sides, front and back of the drawer box using this product, then cut a bottom out of 1/4" plywood, glue and screw/nail it together and put guides on. Rockler also had the guides. When you make the box, the front and back should be lapped by the sides for strength. Most side-mounted guides require 1/4" clearance to the opening on each side of the box (1/2" narrower than the opening). If you need more information, please ask me. Peace, Pat. Thusly spake David Scheidt, On 9/2/2012 1:18 PM: > Our kitchen cabinets have a drawer missing. There's a front for it, > there's nothing blocking the space, and there's no reason not to have > one. (paricularly since the opening is 24" wide, and the other > drawers are all narrow.) I'd like to buy a box, install it , and > attach the existing front to it. Anyone have suggestions on where to > get such a thing? None of the local big box places do. > -- Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems (512) 797-7501 Voice 5026 FM 2001 Pat at HorneSystemsTx.com Lockhart, TX 78644-4443 www.hornesystemstx.com -- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT -- From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 2 19:58:21 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2012 18:58:21 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] premade drawer box In-Reply-To: <5043B9D6.3010206@hornesystemstx.com> References: <5043B9D6.3010206@hornesystemstx.com> Message-ID: <035901cd8977$98a86a20$0601a8c0@randall> > If you have access to a miter saw, or are good with a > circular saw, you > can make your own drawer box from material that Rockler sells Or make your own from clear hardwood, available at the big box place. Last time I borrowed time on a friend's table saw to cut the dado (multiple passes with a standard blade since neither of us had a dado blade), but you could make do with a circular saw and some guide boards clamped to the board you are working on. I've also done it with a router. For a drawer that wide, you might also want a stiffening rib or two across the bottom.\ -- Randall From dmscheidt at gmail.com Sun Sep 2 20:30:55 2012 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2012 21:30:55 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] premade drawer box In-Reply-To: <5043B9D6.3010206@hornesystemstx.com> References: <5043B9D6.3010206@hornesystemstx.com> Message-ID: <60FBC6B7-FF03-4A37-87A6-4E3C28EFC6DA@gmail.com> On Sep 2, 2012, at 2:56 PM, Pat Horne wrote: > David, > > If you have access to a miter saw, or are good with a circular saw, you can make your own drawer box from material that Rockler sells I know how to make a drawer. Ive made a bunch. I have no interest in doing that. I know, from experience, that a local cabinet maker is going to br not interested, quote a ridiculously high price, or farm it out. Drawer boxes are something that is widely outsourced, as it is tooling intensive, and no one cares about them. If youve got the cnc equipment, and make them all day, you can sell them for what a job shop has in materials. I was hoping someone had dealt with someone who was willing to deal with a customer who only needs one. > (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=204&site=ROCKLER) All you need to do is make the sides, front and back of the drawer box using this product, then cut a bottom out of 1/4" plywood, glue and screw/nail it together and put guides on. Rockler also had the guides. > > When you make the box, the front and back should be lapped by the sides for strength. Most side-mounted guides require 1/4" clearance to the opening on each side of the box (1/2" narrower than the opening). > > If you need more information, please ask me. > > Peace, > Pat. > > > Thusly spake David Scheidt, On 9/2/2012 1:18 PM: >> Our kitchen cabinets have a drawer missing. There's a front for it, >> there's nothing blocking the space, and there's no reason not to have >> one. (paricularly since the opening is 24" wide, and the other >> drawers are all narrow.) I'd like to buy a box, install it , and >> attach the existing front to it. Anyone have suggestions on where to >> get such a thing? None of the local big box places do. >> > > -- > Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems > (512) 797-7501 Voice 5026 FM 2001 > Pat at HorneSystemsTx.com Lockhart, TX 78644-4443 > www.hornesystemstx.com > -- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT -- > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dmscheidt at gmail.com From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 3 11:15:30 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2012 10:15:30 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Charger sizing question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <041e01cd89f7$b95d2870$0601a8c0@randall> > So, what size charger do I need. Almost any 'smart' charger designed for a 6v SLA battery should be OK. Here's one: http://goo.gl/rqQIl > There is a replacement one > listed on > Amazon, > (its for a Vec139 > and I'm not > sure if that will work with this one.) Nope, the Vec139 uses a 12v system (two 6V batteries in series), so it's charger wouldn't be appropriate. -- Randall From markmiller at threeboysfarm.com Mon Sep 3 14:12:02 2012 From: markmiller at threeboysfarm.com (Mark Miller) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2012 13:12:02 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Premade Drawer kits In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <82B439D434C948F5BFC63F34932981B7@SusieandMarkPC> Our kitchen cabinets have a drawer missing. There's a front for it, there's nothing blocking the space, and there's no reason not to have one. (paricularly since the opening is 24" wide, and the other drawers are all narrow.) I'd like to buy a box, install it , and attach the existing front to it. Anyone have suggestions on where to get such a thing? None of the local big box places do. Lots of them out there: https://www.barkerdoor.com/Baltic-Plywood-Dovetail-Drawer-Boxes-p/drawerbox- baltic-dovetail.htm http://www.bhkofamerica.com/ http://www.firstchoiceproducts.net/drawer-kits.html From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Wed Sep 5 20:08:43 2012 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2012 21:08:43 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] OT building question Message-ID: I know this isn't shop related, but Mark seems OK if we stray a little... My wife and I own a two story, four unit apartment building. It is currently stucco over lath. Due to years of neglect the stucco and lath are pulling free of the framing and we have been told everything will need to come off. We want to keep the "look" of the building. I found two types of vertical siding and what seems to be an updated version of stucco.Does anyone have any experance any of these products?http://www.jameshardiecommercial.com/index-all.shtmlhttp://www.certa inteed.com/http://www.dryvit.com/systems.asp?country_id=1 Rich White Central, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF###L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! From bk13 at earthlink.net Wed Sep 5 22:56:37 2012 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2012 21:56:37 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] OT building question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <50482D05.7040909@earthlink.net> Rich, I'm using the residential Hardie Soffit product right now under my balcony instead of stucco. In my case, it is much lighter, cheaper, and a do it myself product. I have the 12" x 12' Cedarmill and like it. With the sheets of vertical siding on the Hardie Commercial site, you will have seams, so need to plan how you cover them. If you have imperfections in the building, they will also stand out more with a uniform product like the siding. A skilled stucco person can make a bad wall look good, so that may be a consideration. You also need to line the edges of the vertical siding sheets on studs, which might be wasteful depending on your framing. This wouldn't be an issue with horizontal siding. Stucco doesn't care about uneven stud locations. The commercial product you are looking at is 5/16" thick vs. the 1/4" residential soffit product I'm using, but I'd be concerned about durability/damage at a rental location that may be abused. If a stucco wall takes a baseball hit or gets bumped by a car, I think there is less chance that anyone will know compared to the Hardie siding. Hopefully someone else on the list can speak to the durability of the specific products you are looking at. One option might be to use the siding on the upper level and stucco on the lower level. That way, you could run the sheets vertical and not have any horizontal seams. You might even be able to get higher rent if the place looks architecturally interesting. The fiber cement product is brittle and needs to be carried on edge. I snapped the first piece I tried to put up. I then used a long strip of plywood to support the pieces as I lifted them into position. This probably will not be a problem with siding, especially if two people are doing the install. They say you need to buy a special blade if you use a circular saw, but I use an old fast framing blade. It makes lots of dust. I did wear a respirator and safety glasses and recommend anyone sawing fiber cement product do the same. I used a diamond blade in my jig saw for neat rounded cuts around electrical boxes. I ordered the primed, but not painted product. It paints nice, but takes two coats of Behr Masonry/brick/stucco paint to cover it nicely. The first coat really soaked in, so I think the claims about the paint lasting are true. Call around if you have an option with multiple dealers. I had very different prices and delivery times. It turns out, the cheapest could also have it is stock in two days vs. a week and 30 percent more for the first place I called. Brian On 9/5/2012 7:08 PM, Rich White wrote: > I know this isn't shop related, but Mark seems OK if we stray a little... My > wife and I own a two story, four unit apartment building. > > It is currently stucco over lath. Due to years of neglect the stucco and lath > are > pulling free of the framing and we have been told everything will need to > come > off. > > > > We want to keep the "look" of the building. I found two types of vertical > siding and what seems to be an updated version of stucco.Does anyone have any > experance any of these > products?http://www.jameshardiecommercial.com/index-all.shtmlhttp://www.certa > inteed.com/http://www.dryvit.com/systems.asp?country_id=1 > Rich White Central, IL USA > '63 TR3B TCF###L > That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com Mon Sep 10 20:30:45 2012 From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2012 22:30:45 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Chasing down an auto wiring issue In-Reply-To: <0M8R00GIAY5DOVM0@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> References: <0M8R00GIAY5DOVM0@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Message-ID: <504EA255.3050303@gmail.com> Okay, it's in the shop, and you guys are probably better at this than anyone else... My CTS daily driver has 'parking' lights in the headlight housing (I don't know what else to call them--little white lights in the corner of the housing...'marker' lights, maybe?). The driver's light is out. It's not the bulb. The other lights in the housing work fine, as does the passenger side marker light. I have no idea how to go about chasing this down. Short of disassembling the car and examining or replacing the wire...I got nothing. Any help? Thanks. Scott From rustymetal at sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 10 20:53:11 2012 From: rustymetal at sbcglobal.net (Frank Vantacich) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2012 19:53:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] 455 Husqvarna rancher chain saw Message-ID: <1347331991.84967.YahooMailRC@web184904.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> I was wondering if anyone on the list has purchased a Husqvarna 455 rancher chain saw recently? I have owned mine for about 2 years and since day one it has leaked chain oil . I started stripping it down and think I have found the source of the leak, a rubber plug with a rubber tube coming off of it, but it looks in good condition. I have heard of others having this same problem but no fix for the problem. Frank V. rustymetal at sbcglobal.net From fishplate at gmail.com Mon Sep 10 21:19:24 2012 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2012 23:19:24 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Chasing down an auto wiring issue In-Reply-To: <504EA255.3050303@gmail.com> References: <0M8R00GIAY5DOVM0@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> <504EA255.3050303@gmail.com> Message-ID: On Mon, Sep 10, 2012 at 10:30 PM, Scott wrote: > The driver's light is out. It's not the bulb. The other lights in the > housing work fine, as does the passenger side marker light. > > Any help? I don't know anything either, but I would guess that the cluster has a plug attached to it. I'd make sure there's power to the plug. If so, then you pull the cluster out and trace the wiring/circuit board/whatever moves electrons around the board to see what's wrong. How old is this vehicle? You have tested the lamp, and/or replaced it with a known good lamp? From battmain at yahoo.com Mon Sep 10 21:35:33 2012 From: battmain at yahoo.com (Battmain) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2012 20:35:33 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Chasing down an auto wiring issue In-Reply-To: <504EA255.3050303@gmail.com> References: <0M8R00GIAY5DOVM0@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> <504EA255.3050303@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1347334533.88743.YahooMailNeo@web140003.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Usually a bad bulb, grounding or wire issue. Normally the fuses cover both sides, and not a single side. Occasionally you have to break out the owners manual and head for the fuse description section. If you depend on the little diagram on the fusebox, you may spend hours thinking you replaced the 'correct' fuse when in fact you did not. BTDT. Also using a known good bulb is a good suggestion. Never assume. Brian >________________________________ > From: Scott >To: shop-talk at autox.team.net >Sent: Monday, September 10, 2012 10:30 PM >Subject: [Shop-talk] Chasing down an auto wiring issue > >Okay, it's in the shop, and you guys are probably better at this than anyone else... > >My CTS daily driver has 'parking' lights in the headlight housing (I don't know what else to call them--little white lights in the corner of the housing...'marker' lights, maybe?). The driver's light is out. It's not the bulb. The other lights in the housing work fine, as does the passenger side marker light. > >I have no idea how to go about chasing this down. Short of disassembling the car and examining or replacing the wire...I got nothing. > >Any help? > >Thanks. > >Scott >_______________________________________________ > >Shop-talk at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.96 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/battmain at yahoo.com From eric at megageek.com Tue Sep 11 05:06:21 2012 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 07:06:21 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Separating copper Message-ID: Quick question, I have an antique split bamboo fishing rod that is *suppose* to separate in the middle. The problem is that they are stuck solid. I've tried WD40, and some other lubricants with no luck. Heat really isn't an option. So, any ideas? I need to be careful, because I don't want to destroy or damage the rod. (I believe the metal tips are either copper) Thanks. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson From tputland at charter.net Tue Sep 11 05:27:48 2012 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 07:27:48 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Chasing down an auto wiring issue Message-ID: <2536e2e6.33bc17.139b515cdbe.Webtop.44@charter.net> I would lean towards the bulb/fixture as well. My S10 also has these running lights. When one of mine went out the rest of the headlights worked fine. I replaced the fixture and all was fine. tim On Mon, Sep 10, 2012 at 9:30 PM, Scott wrote: > Okay, it's in the shop, and you guys are probably better at this than > anyone else... > > My CTS daily driver has 'parking' lights in the headlight housing (I > don't know what else to call them--little white lights in the corner > of the housing...'marker' lights, maybe?). The driver's light is out. > It's not the bulb. The other lights in the housing work fine, as does > the passenger side marker light. > > I have no idea how to go about chasing this down. Short of > disassembling the car and examining or replacing the wire...I got > nothing. > > Any help? > > Thanks. > > Scott > _______________________________________________ From kvacek at ameritech.net Tue Sep 11 07:18:08 2012 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 08:18:08 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Separating copper In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <009f01cd901f$e31fcb30$a95f6190$@ameritech.net> Having been disappointed in every rust penetrant I've ever tried, and never really believing that any of them actually loosened anything, I just heard of something else from someone similarly frustrated. Corrosion X is a product sold for internal corrosion protection of vehicles and structures. Really popular for spraying inside aluminum aircraft, into all the hidden panels, etc. where there's no way to clean or inspect short of rivet removal and rebuilding. It's not AFAIK sold as a penetrant for part removal. However... This guy had two really rusty Curtiss OX-5 (used in the WWI Jenny, Waco 10, etc.) engines he'd just bought. I mentioned that successful disassembly looked really iffy, and he immediately smiled and said that where previously he'd anticipate spending months struggling with disassembly, he didn't expect to spend more than a few hours on each one after an hour or two with Corrosion X. The engines have lots of steel and aluminum parts, with some brass and copper as well. He's not a Corrosion-X dealer - he makes custom embroidered shirts, jackets, caps, etc. to support his antique airplane habit. In fact, he didn't even specify which formulation to use - they have several. Karl -----Original Message----- From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of eric at megageek.com Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2012 06:06 To: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net Subject: [Shop-talk] Separating copper Quick question, I have an antique split bamboo fishing rod that is *suppose* to separate in the middle. The problem is that they are stuck solid. I've tried WD40, and some other lubricants with no luck. Heat really isn't an option. So, any ideas? I need to be careful, because I don't want to destroy or damage the rod. (I believe the metal tips are either copper) Thanks. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/kvacek at ameritech.net From gerrybraz at cablespeed.com Tue Sep 11 08:18:17 2012 From: gerrybraz at cablespeed.com (Gerald Brazil) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 10:18:17 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Separating copper In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001e01cd9028$4d73aad0$e85b0070$@cablespeed.com> I have two ideas.....one serious and one "myth busters"..... Try Kroil....the very best stuff I have found for dealing with anything metal.... The second....Coca Cola.......people use it for everything else.....might just work. ;-) -----Original Message----- From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of eric at megageek.com Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2012 7:06 AM To: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net Subject: [Shop-talk] Separating copper Quick question, I have an antique split bamboo fishing rod that is *suppose* to separate in the middle. The problem is that they are stuck solid. I've tried WD40, and some other lubricants with no luck. Heat really isn't an option. So, any ideas? I need to be careful, because I don't want to destroy or damage the rod. (I believe the metal tips are either copper) Thanks. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/gerrybraz at cablespeed.com From mark at nashvilletn.org Tue Sep 11 10:57:44 2012 From: mark at nashvilletn.org (Mark Endicott) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 11:57:44 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Separating copper References: <001e01cd9028$4d73aad0$e85b0070$@cablespeed.com> Message-ID: <53C2E2D5E2E64ED78BAE0AFD3EC65CCA@CGI.COMMTECH> How about freezing the joint to shrink it then heating the outside piece quickly with a small jewelers torch to try to expand the outer collar while the inner is still cold? Eric, you probably have some liquid nitrogen available don't you? Maybe the expansion and contraction would break it loose. Mark Nashville From shochschild at att.net Tue Sep 11 11:01:44 2012 From: shochschild at att.net (steve hochschild) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 12:01:44 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Separating copper In-Reply-To: <53C2E2D5E2E64ED78BAE0AFD3EC65CCA@CGI.COMMTECH> References: <001e01cd9028$4d73aad0$e85b0070$@cablespeed.com> <53C2E2D5E2E64ED78BAE0AFD3EC65CCA@CGI.COMMTECH> Message-ID: <504F6E78.9030900@att.net> In my experience, this doesn't really work for copper -- it transfers heat so quickly the delta between the inner and outer only lasts for a nanosecond, too fast for expansion to expand. On 9/11/2012 11:57 AM, Mark Endicott wrote: > How about freezing the joint to shrink it then heating the outside > piece quickly with a small jewelers torch to try to expand the outer > collar while the inner is still cold? Eric, you probably have some > liquid nitrogen available don't you? Maybe the expansion and > contraction would break it loose. > > Mark > Nashville From eric at megageek.com Tue Sep 11 11:52:37 2012 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 13:52:37 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Headlight housing hazing Message-ID: Talking about the headlight housing, how do you fix the hazing that happens on them? I've tried to use toothpaste, but it didn't work that well. Any other ideas? I see lots of kits to do it, but I wonder which one is best, or if there is a better homemade solution (maybe I did the toothpaste wrong.) Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson From marka at maracing.com Tue Sep 11 12:10:04 2012 From: marka at maracing.com (Mark Andy) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 14:10:04 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Headlight housing hazing In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Howdy, On Tue, 11 Sep 2012, eric at megageek.com wrote: > Talking about the headlight housing, how do you fix the hazing that > happens on them? > > I've tried to use toothpaste, but it didn't work that well. Any other > ideas? I see lots of kits to do it, but I wonder which one is best, or > if there is a better homemade solution (maybe I did the toothpaste > wrong.) I've used a 3M (?? I think it was) kit from the autoparts store. Seemed to work really well on my motorhome's fairly cloudy headlights and its lasted. If I had to do it again, I'd do the same thing (i.e. go to parts store, look at kits, pick whichever one caught my eye the most). Mark From strovato at optonline.net Tue Sep 11 12:14:56 2012 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 14:14:56 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Headlight housing hazing Message-ID: <0MA70049S6QZ1CG0@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> As you said, there are various kits out there. I don't have a recommendation for a particular one, but I hope they all work better than toothpaste. One thing to consider, aftermarket headlights for most cars are a lot less expensive that you might think. Amazon has a number of resellers offering these. It really depends on which vehicle. Some can be had for $25. If you are lucky enough to have one of these vehicles, I'd spend the $50 bucks and get a couple of shiny new ones. Of course, as the price goes up, the kit might be worth a try. -Steve Trovato strovato at optonline.net At 01:52 PM 9/11/2012, eric at megageek.com wrote: >Talking about the headlight housing, how do you fix the hazing that >happens on them? From pj_thomas at comcast.net Tue Sep 11 12:16:44 2012 From: pj_thomas at comcast.net (Peter J. Thomas) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 14:16:44 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Headlight housing hazing In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <504F800C.7080705@comcast.net> On 9/11/2012 1:52 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote: > Talking about the headlight housing, how do you fix the hazing that > happens on them? > > I've tried to use toothpaste, but it didn't work that well. Any other > ideas? I see lots of kits to do it, but I wonder which one is best, or if > there is a better homemade solution (maybe I did the toothpaste wrong.) I've used polishing compound (like rubbing compound) it improves it but may not be as good as commercial products which coat the lens. I'd only us it on old lens. I also used ceramic stove cleaner on windshields to clean them with great success. This would probably work on headlamps also. Peter T. From pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com Tue Sep 11 12:21:20 2012 From: pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com (PJ McGarvey) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 14:21:20 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Headlight housing hazing In-Reply-To: <504F800C.7080705@comcast.net> References: , <504F800C.7080705@comcast.net> Message-ID: Eric the Car Guy (one of my new favorite YouTube channels) has a video on this I watched awhile back. Offers some tips, though I can't say he or I can recommend the best kit out there. Somewhat entertaining watching in any case. http://youtu.be/iRl8hGhKth8 -PJ > Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 14:16:44 -0400 > From: pj_thomas at comcast.net > To: eric at megageek.com > CC: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Headlight housing hazing > > On 9/11/2012 1:52 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote: > > Talking about the headlight housing, how do you fix the hazing that > > happens on them? > > > > I've tried to use toothpaste, but it didn't work that well. Any other > > ideas? I see lots of kits to do it, but I wonder which one is best, or if > > there is a better homemade solution (maybe I did the toothpaste wrong.) > > I've used polishing compound (like rubbing compound) it improves it but > may not be as good as commercial products which coat the lens. I'd only > us it on old lens. I also used ceramic stove cleaner on windshields to > clean them with great success. This would probably work on headlamps also. > > Peter T. > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com From ronnie.day at gmail.com Tue Sep 11 13:45:39 2012 From: ronnie.day at gmail.com (Ronnie Day) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 14:45:39 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Headlight housing hazing In-Reply-To: References: <504F800C.7080705@comcast.net> Message-ID: I worked on the headlights on our '05 Accord this weekend. I've used a couple of the commercial kits and I think the Meguiar's Heavy Duty kits is the best in my experience. It includes both 1000 and 3000 grit disks and a comfortable to use disk holder, along with a liquid polish and a sealer. There's also a soft cotton buffing disk for use with a drill that's about 3 inches across so it works well on all sizes and shapes of headlights. I expect the sealer helps maintain the clarity longer than you might get with just sanding and polishing. Our commute in through farm country and there's often a lot of "junk" in the air. In fact a year or so ago our '95 Odyssey started overheating for no apparent reason, Turned out that over several years the space between the AC condenser and rad had become full of this stuff floating around in the air. I'm sure it's somewhat abrasive on the headlights at 75 plus, too. Interesting to note that the headlights on the Odyssey are cast from harder plastic than the Accord. They're held up well but were also much improved after using the Maguier's kit on them, as were the headlights on our '93 GMC PU. I've noticed when driving our "new" '02 Suburban that the headlights leave much to be desired, but it looks like the outfit that was mentioned here on the list that was offering high output headlights is no longer in business. I'll dig around on Jeg's, LMC Truck and some of the Chev/GMC truck forums to see what I can find. I also want to improve the horn on the Sub. The OE unit sounds like it's from a pedal car! Ron On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 1:21 PM, PJ McGarvey wrote: > Eric the Car Guy (one of my new favorite YouTube channels) has a video on > this > I watched awhile back. Offers some tips, though I can't say he or I can > recommend the best kit out there. Somewhat entertaining watching in any > case. > http://youtu.be/iRl8hGhKth8 > > -PJ > > > Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 14:16:44 -0400 > > From: pj_thomas at comcast.net > > To: eric at megageek.com > > CC: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net > > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Headlight housing hazing > > > > On 9/11/2012 1:52 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote: > > > Talking about the headlight housing, how do you fix the hazing that > > > happens on them? > > > > > > I've tried to use toothpaste, but it didn't work that well. Any other > > > ideas? I see lots of kits to do it, but I wonder which one is best, or > if > > > there is a better homemade solution (maybe I did the toothpaste wrong.) > > > > I've used polishing compound (like rubbing compound) it improves it but > > may not be as good as commercial products which coat the lens. I'd only > > us it on old lens. I also used ceramic stove cleaner on windshields to > > clean them with great success. This would probably work on headlamps > also. > > > > Peter T. > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ronnie.day at gmail.com From tputland at charter.net Tue Sep 11 14:08:43 2012 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 16:08:43 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight housing hazing Message-ID: <278a3b1.34315b.139b6f2b847.Webtop.44@charter.net> I bought this one from summit: https://www.summitracing.com/myaccount/OrderDetails.aspx?CN=11901580&ON=4562433 DON'T BOTHER. It looks like a meaty horn but sounds like, as you said, a pedal car. I am very disappointed. tim On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 2:45 PM, Ronnie Day wrote: > I worked on the headlights on our '05 Accord this weekend. I've used a > couple of the commercial kits and I think the Meguiar's Heavy Duty > kits is > the best in my experience. It includes both 1000 and 3000 grit disks > and a > comfortable to use disk holder, along with a liquid polish and a > sealer. > There's also a soft cotton buffing disk for use with a drill that's > about 3 > inches across so it works well on all sizes and shapes of headlights. > > I expect the sealer helps maintain the clarity longer than you might > get > with just sanding and polishing. Our commute in through farm country > and > there's often a lot of "junk" in the air. In fact a year or so ago our > '95 > Odyssey started overheating for no apparent reason, Turned out that > over > several years the space between the AC condenser and rad had become > full of > this stuff floating around in the air. I'm sure it's somewhat abrasive > on > the headlights at 75 plus, too. Interesting to note that the > headlights on > the Odyssey are cast from harder plastic than the Accord. They're held > up > well but were also much improved after using the Maguier's kit on > them, as > were the headlights on our '93 GMC PU. > > I've noticed when driving our "new" '02 Suburban that the headlights > leave > much to be desired, but it looks like the outfit that was mentioned > here on > the list that was offering high output headlights is no longer in > business. > I'll dig around on Jeg's, LMC Truck and some of the Chev/GMC truck > forums > to see what I can find. I also want to improve the horn on the Sub. > The OE > unit sounds like it's from a pedal car! > > Ron > > On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 1:21 PM, PJ McGarvey > wrote: > >> E From mistertwo at sbcglobal.net Tue Sep 11 14:18:24 2012 From: mistertwo at sbcglobal.net (Rand E) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 13:18:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight housing hazing In-Reply-To: <278a3b1.34315b.139b6f2b847.Webtop.44@charter.net> References: <278a3b1.34315b.139b6f2b847.Webtop.44@charter.net> Message-ID: <1347394704.6211.YahooMailRC@web184501.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> You can get the same horn at Harbor Freight on sale for about $20. Randy ________________________________ From: Tim To: Shop Talk List Sent: Tue, September 11, 2012 3:08:43 PM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight housing hazing I bought this one from summit: https://www.summitracing.com/myaccount/OrderDetails.aspx?CN=11901580&ON=4562433 DON'T BOTHER. It looks like a meaty horn but sounds like, as you said, a pedal car. I am very disappointed. tim On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 2:45 PM, Ronnie Day wrote: > I worked on the headlights on our '05 Accord this weekend. I've used a > couple of the commercial kits and I think the Meguiar's Heavy Duty kits is > the best in my experience. It includes both 1000 and 3000 grit disks and a > comfortable to use disk holder, along with a liquid polish and a sealer. > There's also a soft cotton buffing disk for use with a drill that's about 3 > inches across so it works well on all sizes and shapes of headlights. > > I expect the sealer helps maintain the clarity longer than you might get > with just sanding and polishing. Our commute in through farm country and > there's often a lot of "junk" in the air. In fact a year or so ago our '95 > Odyssey started overheating for no apparent reason, Turned out that over > several years the space between the AC condenser and rad had become full of > this stuff floating around in the air. I'm sure it's somewhat abrasive on > the headlights at 75 plus, too. Interesting to note that the headlights on > the Odyssey are cast from harder plastic than the Accord. They're held up > well but were also much improved after using the Maguier's kit on them, as > were the headlights on our '93 GMC PU. > > I've noticed when driving our "new" '02 Suburban that the headlights leave > much to be desired, but it looks like the outfit that was mentioned here on > the list that was offering high output headlights is no longer in business. > I'll dig around on Jeg's, LMC Truck and some of the Chev/GMC truck forums > to see what I can find. I also want to improve the horn on the Sub. The OE > unit sounds like it's from a pedal car! > > Ron > > On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 1:21 PM, PJ McGarvey wrote: > >> E _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mistertwo at sbcglobal.net From battmain at yahoo.com Tue Sep 11 15:51:31 2012 From: battmain at yahoo.com (Battmain) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 14:51:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight housing hazing In-Reply-To: <1347394704.6211.YahooMailRC@web184501.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <278a3b1.34315b.139b6f2b847.Webtop.44@charter.net> <1347394704.6211.YahooMailRC@web184501.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1347400291.27683.YahooMailNeo@web140006.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Just get a hornblaster and be done with it. Youtube hornblaster and while they were being idiots, it shows the power of the horn. I too got a horn thinking it would help. While loud, it was no comparison to the hornblaster. Brian >________________________________ > From: Rand E >To: Shop Talk List >Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2012 4:18 PM >Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight housing hazing > >You can get the same horn at Harbor Freight on sale for about $20. > >Randy > > > > > >________________________________ >From: Tim >To: Shop Talk List >Sent: Tue, September 11, 2012 3:08:43 PM >Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight housing hazing > >I bought this one from summit: > > >https://www.summitracing.com/myaccount/OrderDetails.aspx?CN=11901580&ON=4562 433 > >DON'T BOTHER. It looks like a meaty horn but sounds like, as you said, a pedal >car. I am very disappointed. > >tim > >On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 2:45 PM, Ronnie Day wrote: > >> I worked on the headlights on our '05 Accord this weekend. I've used a >> couple of the commercial kits and I think the Meguiar's Heavy Duty kits is >> the best in my experience. It includes both 1000 and 3000 grit disks and a >> comfortable to use disk holder, along with a liquid polish and a sealer. >> There's also a soft cotton buffing disk for use with a drill that's about 3 >> inches across so it works well on all sizes and shapes of headlights. >> >> I expect the sealer helps maintain the clarity longer than you might get >> with just sanding and polishing. Our commute in through farm country and >> there's often a lot of "junk" in the air. In fact a year or so ago our '95 >> Odyssey started overheating for no apparent reason, Turned out that over >> several years the space between the AC condenser and rad had become full of >> this stuff floating around in the air. I'm sure it's somewhat abrasive on >> the headlights at 75 plus, too. Interesting to note that the headlights on >> the Odyssey are cast from harder plastic than the Accord. They're held up >> well but were also much improved after using the Maguier's kit on them, as >> were the headlights on our '93 GMC PU. >> >> I've noticed when driving our "new" '02 Suburban that the headlights leave >> much to be desired, but it looks like the outfit that was mentioned here on >> the list that was offering high output headlights is no longer in business. >> I'll dig around on Jeg's, LMC Truck and some of the Chev/GMC truck forums >> to see what I can find. I also want to improve the horn on the Sub. The OE >> unit sounds like it's from a pedal car! >> >> Ron >> >> On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 1:21 PM, PJ McGarvey wrote: >> >>> E >_______________________________________________ > >Shop-talk at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.96 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mistertwo at sbcglobal.net >_______________________________________________ > >Shop-talk at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.96 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/battmain at yahoo.com From 57healey at gmail.com Tue Sep 11 17:04:33 2012 From: 57healey at gmail.com (Patton Dickson) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 18:04:33 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Looking for someone to look at a vintage camper in Northern Wisconsin Message-ID: This is a longshot, but is there anyone in the Northern Wisconsin area that can check out a vintage travel trailer my parents are interested in buying to restore. They just need someone to walk though to see if things are as advertised before they commit to driving up from Mississippi and haven't been able to find one of their trailer buddies in the area. Email me off list if you can help. Thanks Patton -- Patton Dickson - Plano, TX From gerrybraz at cablespeed.com Tue Sep 11 17:39:41 2012 From: gerrybraz at cablespeed.com (Gerald Brazil) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 19:39:41 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Looking for someone to look at a vintage camper in Northern Wisconsin In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002101cd9076$b7eee5c0$27ccb140$@cablespeed.com> If it has ever been used for Deer Camp I doubt if you will be able to get the smell out. ;-) -----Original Message----- From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patton Dickson Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2012 7:05 PM To: Healey List; Shop-Talk Subject: [Shop-talk] Looking for someone to look at a vintage camper in Northern Wisconsin This is a longshot, but is there anyone in the Northern Wisconsin area that can check out a vintage travel trailer my parents are interested in buying to restore. They just need someone to walk though to see if things are as advertised before they commit to driving up from Mississippi and haven't been able to find one of their trailer buddies in the area. Email me off list if you can help. Thanks Patton -- Patton Dickson - Plano, TX _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/gerrybraz at cablespeed.com From 57healey at gmail.com Tue Sep 11 17:42:37 2012 From: 57healey at gmail.com (Patton Dickson) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 23:42:37 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] Looking for someone to look at a vintage camper in Northern Wisconsin In-Reply-To: <002101cd9076$b7eee5c0$27ccb140$@cablespeed.com> References: <002101cd9076$b7eee5c0$27ccb140$@cablespeed.com> Message-ID: They know. As I understand it, its pretty clean, just 50+ years old. Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: "Gerald Brazil" Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 19:39:41 To: 'Patton Dickson'<57healey at gmail.com>; 'Healey List'; 'Shop-Talk' Subject: RE: [Shop-talk] Looking for someone to look at a vintage camper in Northern Wisconsin If it has ever been used for Deer Camp I doubt if you will be able to get the smell out. ;-) -----Original Message----- From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patton Dickson Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2012 7:05 PM To: Healey List; Shop-Talk Subject: [Shop-talk] Looking for someone to look at a vintage camper in Northern Wisconsin This is a longshot, but is there anyone in the Northern Wisconsin area that can check out a vintage travel trailer my parents are interested in buying to restore. They just need someone to walk though to see if things are as advertised before they commit to driving up from Mississippi and haven't been able to find one of their trailer buddies in the area. Email me off list if you can help. Thanks Patton -- Patton Dickson - Plano, TX _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/gerrybraz at cablespeed.com From cavanadd at frontier.com Tue Sep 11 20:17:30 2012 From: cavanadd at frontier.com (Dave C) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 19:17:30 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Separating copper In-Reply-To: <009f01cd901f$e31fcb30$a95f6190$@ameritech.net> References: <009f01cd901f$e31fcb30$a95f6190$@ameritech.net> Message-ID: <504FF0BA.1050209@frontier.com> I'm sold on CorrosionX too. It's pretty much the only spray stuff in a can I buy any more, although I was pretty happy with Kroil, too. On 9/11/2012 6:18 AM, Karl Vacek wrote: > Having been disappointed in every rust penetrant I've ever tried, and never > really believing that any of them actually loosened anything, I just heard > of something else from someone similarly frustrated. > > Corrosion X is a product sold for internal corrosion protection of vehicles > and structures. Really popular for spraying inside aluminum aircraft, into > all the hidden panels, etc. where there's no way to clean or inspect short > of rivet removal and rebuilding. It's not AFAIK sold as a penetrant for > part removal. However... > > This guy had two really rusty Curtiss OX-5 (used in the WWI Jenny, Waco 10, > etc.) engines he'd just bought. I mentioned that successful disassembly > looked really iffy, and he immediately smiled and said that where previously > he'd anticipate spending months struggling with disassembly, he didn't > expect to spend more than a few hours on each one after an hour or two with > Corrosion X. The engines have lots of steel and aluminum parts, with some > brass and copper as well. > > He's not a Corrosion-X dealer - he makes custom embroidered shirts, jackets, > caps, etc. to support his antique airplane habit. In fact, he didn't even > specify which formulation to use - they have several. > > Karl > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of eric at megageek.com > Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2012 06:06 > To: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net > Subject: [Shop-talk] Separating copper > > Quick question, I have an antique split bamboo fishing rod that is > *suppose* to separate in the middle. The problem is that they are stuck > solid. > > I've tried WD40, and some other lubricants with no luck. Heat really isn't > an option. > > So, any ideas? I need to be careful, because I don't want to destroy or > damage the rod. (I believe the metal tips are either copper) > > Thanks. > > Eric P > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo > Emerson _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/kvacek at ameritech.net > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd at frontier.com From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com Tue Sep 11 21:15:02 2012 From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 23:15:02 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Chasing down an auto wiring issue In-Reply-To: <2536e2e6.33bc17.139b515cdbe.Webtop.44@charter.net> References: <2536e2e6.33bc17.139b515cdbe.Webtop.44@charter.net> Message-ID: <504FFE36.10309@gmail.com> So just...snip the old one off and splice in a new one? On 9/11/2012 7:27 AM, Tim wrote: > I would lean towards the bulb/fixture as well. My S10 also has these > running lights. When one of mine went out the rest of the headlights > worked fine. I replaced the fixture and all was fine. > > tim > > On Mon, Sep 10, 2012 at 9:30 PM, Scott wrote: > >> Okay, it's in the shop, and you guys are probably better at this than >> anyone else... >> >> My CTS daily driver has 'parking' lights in the headlight housing (I >> don't know what else to call them--little white lights in the corner >> of the housing...'marker' lights, maybe?). The driver's light is out. >> It's not the bulb. The other lights in the housing work fine, as does >> the passenger side marker light. >> >> I have no idea how to go about chasing this down. Short of >> disassembling the car and examining or replacing the wire...I got >> nothing. >> >> Any help? >> >> Thanks. From tputland at charter.net Wed Sep 12 05:08:37 2012 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2012 07:08:37 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Looking for someone to look at a vintage camper in Northern Wisconsin Message-ID: <6b46176d.3e3df1.139ba2a98bd.Webtop.48@charter.net> Where in Northern WI? I will be in the Green Bay area in early November and know a few people around the state. tim On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 6:04 PM, Patton Dickson wrote: > This is a longshot, but is there anyone in the Northern Wisconsin area > that > can check out a vintage travel trailer my parents are interested in > buying > to restore. They just need someone to walk though to see if things > are > as advertised before they commit to driving up from Mississippi and > haven't > been able to find one of their trailer buddies in the area. > > Email me off list if you can help. > Thanks > Patton > > -- > Patton Dickson - Plano, TX > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tputland at charter.net From tputland at charter.net Wed Sep 12 05:10:40 2012 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2012 07:10:40 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight housing hazing Message-ID: <597265d6.3e3e16.139ba2c7aa7.Webtop.48@charter.net> Why would I buy another, even if on sale, if I am unhappy with the first one? ;-0 On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 3:18 PM, Rand E wrote: > You can get the same horn at Harbor Freight on sale for about $20. > > Randy > > > > > > ________________________________ > From: Tim > To: Shop Talk List > Sent: Tue, September 11, 2012 3:08:43 PM > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight housing > hazing > > I bought this one from summit: > > > > https://www.summitracing.com/myaccount/OrderDetails.aspx?CN=11901580&ON=4562433 > > DON'T BOTHER. It looks like a meaty horn but sounds like, as you said, > a pedal car. I am very disappointed. > > tim > > On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 2:45 PM, Ronnie Day wrote: > >> I worked on the headlights on our '05 Accord this weekend. I've used >> a >> couple of the commercial kits and I think the Meguiar's Heavy Duty >> kits is >> the best in my experience. It includes both 1000 and 3000 grit disks >> and a >> comfortable to use disk holder, along with a liquid polish and a >> sealer. >> There's also a soft cotton buffing disk for use with a drill that's >> about 3 >> inches across so it works well on all sizes and shapes of headlights. >> >> I expect the sealer helps maintain the clarity longer than you might >> get >> with just sanding and polishing. Our commute in through farm country >> and >> there's often a lot of "junk" in the air. In fact a year or so ago >> our '95 >> Odyssey started overheating for no apparent reason, Turned out that >> over >> several years the space between the AC condenser and rad had become >> full of >> this stuff floating around in the air. I'm sure it's somewhat >> abrasive on >> the headlights at 75 plus, too. Interesting to note that the >> headlights on >> the Odyssey are cast from harder plastic than the Accord. They're >> held up >> well but were also much improved after using the Maguier's kit on >> them, as >> were the headlights on our '93 GMC PU. >> >> I've noticed when driving our "new" '02 Suburban that the headlights >> leave >> much to be desired, but it looks like the outfit that was mentioned >> here on >> the list that was offering high output headlights is no longer in >> business. >> I'll dig around on Jeg's, LMC Truck and some of the Chev/GMC truck >> forums >> to see what I can find. I also want to improve the horn on the Sub. >> The OE >> unit sounds like it's from a pedal car! >> >> Ron >> >> On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 1:21 PM, PJ McGarvey >> wrote: >> >>> E From tputland at charter.net Wed Sep 12 05:12:31 2012 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2012 07:12:31 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Chasing down an auto wiring issue Message-ID: <1cbee297.3e3e42.139ba2e299d.Webtop.48@charter.net> When I say "fixture" I guess I should have said replaced the light itself. On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 10:15 PM, Scott wrote: > So just...snip the old one off and splice in a new one? > > On 9/11/2012 7:27 AM, Tim wrote: >> I would lean towards the bulb/fixture as well. My S10 also has these >> running lights. When one of mine went out the rest of the headlights >> worked fine. I replaced the fixture and all was fine. >> >> tim >> >> On Mon, Sep 10, 2012 at 9:30 PM, Scott wrote: >> >>> Okay, it's in the shop, and you guys are probably better at this >>> than anyone else... >>> >>> My CTS daily driver has 'parking' lights in the headlight housing (I >>> don't know what else to call them--little white lights in the corner >>> of the housing...'marker' lights, maybe?). The driver's light is >>> out. It's not the bulb. The other lights in the housing work fine, >>> as does the passenger side marker light. >>> >>> I have no idea how to go about chasing this down. Short of >>> disassembling the car and examining or replacing the wire...I got >>> nothing. >>> >>> Any help? >>> >>> Thanks. > _______________________________________________ From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com Wed Sep 12 06:46:47 2012 From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott) Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2012 08:46:47 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Chasing down an auto wiring issue In-Reply-To: <1cbee297.3e3e42.139ba2e299d.Webtop.48@charter.net> References: <1cbee297.3e3e42.139ba2e299d.Webtop.48@charter.net> Message-ID: <50508437.1050101@gmail.com> The 'headlight housing' itself? On 9/12/2012 7:12 AM, Tim wrote: > When I say "fixture" I guess I should have said replaced the light > itself. > > > On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 10:15 PM, Scott wrote: > >> So just...snip the old one off and splice in a new one? >> >> On 9/11/2012 7:27 AM, Tim wrote: >>> I would lean towards the bulb/fixture as well. My S10 also has these >>> running lights. When one of mine went out the rest of the headlights >>> worked fine. I replaced the fixture and all was fine. From mistertwo at sbcglobal.net Wed Sep 12 06:56:25 2012 From: mistertwo at sbcglobal.net (Rand E) Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2012 05:56:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight housing hazing In-Reply-To: <597265d6.3e3e16.139ba2c7aa7.Webtop.48@charter.net> References: <597265d6.3e3e16.139ba2c7aa7.Webtop.48@charter.net> Message-ID: <1347454585.71717.YahooMailRC@web184503.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> I'd be pissed too if I paid almost $50 for a $20 item. ________________________________ From: Tim To: Rand E Cc: Shop Talk List Sent: Wed, September 12, 2012 6:10:43 AM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight housing hazing Why would I buy another, even if on sale, if I am unhappy with the first one? ;-0 On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 3:18 PM, Rand E wrote: > You can get the same horn at Harbor Freight on sale for about $20. > > Randy > > > > > > ________________________________ > From: Tim > To: Shop Talk List > Sent: Tue, September 11, 2012 3:08:43 PM > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight housing hazing > > I bought this one from summit: > > > > https://www.summitracing.com/myaccount/OrderDetails.aspx?CN=11901580&ON=4562433 > > DON'T BOTHER. It looks like a meaty horn but sounds like, as you said, a pedal >car. I am very disappointed. > > tim > > On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 2:45 PM, Ronnie Day wrote: > >> I worked on the headlights on our '05 Accord this weekend. I've used a >> couple of the commercial kits and I think the Meguiar's Heavy Duty kits is >> the best in my experience. It includes both 1000 and 3000 grit disks and a >> comfortable to use disk holder, along with a liquid polish and a sealer. >> There's also a soft cotton buffing disk for use with a drill that's about 3 >> inches across so it works well on all sizes and shapes of headlights. >> >> I expect the sealer helps maintain the clarity longer than you might get >> with just sanding and polishing. Our commute in through farm country and >> there's often a lot of "junk" in the air. In fact a year or so ago our '95 >> Odyssey started overheating for no apparent reason, Turned out that over >> several years the space between the AC condenser and rad had become full of >> this stuff floating around in the air. I'm sure it's somewhat abrasive on >> the headlights at 75 plus, too. Interesting to note that the headlights on >> the Odyssey are cast from harder plastic than the Accord. They're held up >> well but were also much improved after using the Maguier's kit on them, as >> were the headlights on our '93 GMC PU. >> >> I've noticed when driving our "new" '02 Suburban that the headlights leave >> much to be desired, but it looks like the outfit that was mentioned here on >> the list that was offering high output headlights is no longer in business. >> I'll dig around on Jeg's, LMC Truck and some of the Chev/GMC truck forums >> to see what I can find. I also want to improve the horn on the Sub. The OE >> unit sounds like it's from a pedal car! >> >> Ron >> >> On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 1:21 PM, PJ McGarvey wrote: >> >>> E From tputland at charter.net Wed Sep 12 07:24:21 2012 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2012 09:24:21 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight housing hazing Message-ID: <6aabea78.3e52f6.139baa6dee2.Webtop.48@charter.net> I didn't pay $50 for it. I paid around $25 after shipping with my discount. And I am pissed at the tone of the horn. Are we done? On Wed, Sep 12, 2012 at 7:56 AM, Rand E wrote: > I'd be pissed too if I paid almost $50 for a $20 item. > > > > > ________________________________ > From: Tim > To: Rand E > Cc: Shop Talk List > Sent: Wed, September 12, 2012 6:10:43 AM > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight housing > hazing > > Why would I buy another, even if on sale, if I am unhappy with the > first one? ;-0 > > > On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 3:18 PM, Rand E wrote: > >> You can get the same horn at Harbor Freight on sale for about $20. >> >> Randy >> >> >> >> >> >> ________________________________ >> From: Tim >> To: Shop Talk List >> Sent: Tue, September 11, 2012 3:08:43 PM >> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight housing >> hazing >> >> I bought this one from summit: >> >> >> >> > > https://www.summitracing.com/myaccount/OrderDetails.aspx?CN=11901580&ON=4562433 >> >> DON'T BOTHER. It looks like a meaty horn but sounds like, as you >> said, a pedal car. I am very disappointed. >> >> tim >> >> On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 2:45 PM, Ronnie Day wrote: >> >>> I worked on the headlights on our '05 Accord this weekend. I've used >>> a >>> couple of the commercial kits and I think the Meguiar's Heavy Duty >>> kits is >>> the best in my experience. It includes both 1000 and 3000 grit disks >>> and a >>> comfortable to use disk holder, along with a liquid polish and a >>> sealer. >>> There's also a soft cotton buffing disk for use with a drill that's >>> about 3 >>> inches across so it works well on all sizes and shapes of >>> headlights. >>> >>> I expect the sealer helps maintain the clarity longer than you might >>> get >>> with just sanding and polishing. Our commute in through farm country >>> and >>> there's often a lot of "junk" in the air. In fact a year or so ago >>> our '95 >>> Odyssey started overheating for no apparent reason, Turned out that >>> over >>> several years the space between the AC condenser and rad had become >>> full of >>> this stuff floating around in the air. I'm sure it's somewhat >>> abrasive on >>> the headlights at 75 plus, too. Interesting to note that the >>> headlights on >>> the Odyssey are cast from harder plastic than the Accord. They're >>> held up >>> well but were also much improved after using the Maguier's kit on >>> them, as >>> were the headlights on our '93 GMC PU. >>> >>> I've noticed when driving our "new" '02 Suburban that the headlights >>> leave >>> much to be desired, but it looks like the outfit that was mentioned >>> here on >>> the list that was offering high output headlights is no longer in >>> business. >>> I'll dig around on Jeg's, LMC Truck and some of the Chev/GMC truck >>> forums >>> to see what I can find. I also want to improve the horn on the Sub. >>> The OE >>> unit sounds like it's from a pedal car! >>> >>> Ron >>> >>> On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 1:21 PM, PJ McGarvey >>> wrote: >>> >>>> E > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tputland at charter.net From mistertwo at sbcglobal.net Wed Sep 12 13:22:05 2012 From: mistertwo at sbcglobal.net (Rand E) Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2012 12:22:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight housing hazing In-Reply-To: <6aabea78.3e52f6.139baa6dee2.Webtop.48@charter.net> References: <6aabea78.3e52f6.139baa6dee2.Webtop.48@charter.net> Message-ID: <1347477725.67778.YahooMailRC@web184502.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> I was done a long time ago. Unless you want to continue something??? ________________________________ From: Tim To: Rand E Cc: Shop Talk List Sent: Wed, September 12, 2012 8:24:35 AM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight housing hazing I didn't pay $50 for it. I paid around $25 after shipping with my discount. And I am pissed at the tone of the horn. Are we done? On Wed, Sep 12, 2012 at 7:56 AM, Rand E wrote: > I'd be pissed too if I paid almost $50 for a $20 item. > > > > > ________________________________ > From: Tim > To: Rand E > Cc: Shop Talk List > Sent: Wed, September 12, 2012 6:10:43 AM > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight housing hazing > > Why would I buy another, even if on sale, if I am unhappy with the first one? >;-0 > > > On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 3:18 PM, Rand E wrote: > >> You can get the same horn at Harbor Freight on sale for about $20. >> >> Randy >> >> >> >> >> >> ________________________________ >> From: Tim >> To: Shop Talk List >> Sent: Tue, September 11, 2012 3:08:43 PM >> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight housing hazing >> >> I bought this one from summit: >> >> >> >> > > https://www.summitracing.com/myaccount/OrderDetails.aspx?CN=11901580&ON=4562433 >> >> DON'T BOTHER. It looks like a meaty horn but sounds like, as you said, a pedal >>car. I am very disappointed. >> >> tim >> >> On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 2:45 PM, Ronnie Day wrote: >> >>> I worked on the headlights on our '05 Accord this weekend. I've used a >>> couple of the commercial kits and I think the Meguiar's Heavy Duty kits is >>> the best in my experience. It includes both 1000 and 3000 grit disks and a >>> comfortable to use disk holder, along with a liquid polish and a sealer. >>> There's also a soft cotton buffing disk for use with a drill that's about 3 >>> inches across so it works well on all sizes and shapes of headlights. >>> >>> I expect the sealer helps maintain the clarity longer than you might get >>> with just sanding and polishing. Our commute in through farm country and >>> there's often a lot of "junk" in the air. In fact a year or so ago our '95 >>> Odyssey started overheating for no apparent reason, Turned out that over >>> several years the space between the AC condenser and rad had become full of >>> this stuff floating around in the air. I'm sure it's somewhat abrasive on >>> the headlights at 75 plus, too. Interesting to note that the headlights on >>> the Odyssey are cast from harder plastic than the Accord. They're held up >>> well but were also much improved after using the Maguier's kit on them, as >>> were the headlights on our '93 GMC PU. >>> >>> I've noticed when driving our "new" '02 Suburban that the headlights leave >>> much to be desired, but it looks like the outfit that was mentioned here on >>> the list that was offering high output headlights is no longer in business. >>> I'll dig around on Jeg's, LMC Truck and some of the Chev/GMC truck forums >>> to see what I can find. I also want to improve the horn on the Sub. The OE >>> unit sounds like it's from a pedal car! >>> >>> Ron >>> >>> On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 1:21 PM, PJ McGarvey wrote: >>> >>>> E > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tputland at charter.net _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mistertwo at sbcglobal.net From mark at bradakis.com Thu Sep 13 01:41:40 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2012 01:41:40 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] What fun! Message-ID: <50518E34.40806@bradakis.com> So it is raining in my office. Well, maybe just a few small streams, but the dishwasher up above me in the kitchen seems to be leaking, and leaking badly. Gosh, didn't we recently have a discussion about dishwasher drain lines? Wonder what I'll work on tomorrow. mjb. From doug at dougbraun.com Thu Sep 13 05:51:19 2012 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2012 07:51:19 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] What fun! In-Reply-To: <50518E34.40806@bradakis.com> References: <50518E34.40806@bradakis.com> Message-ID: A few years ago we started our GE dishwasher before going to bed, and it decided to try filling all night. This turned our finished basement into an indoor swimming pool. We replaced the dishwasher with a Miele. Their models (and ones by Bosch and other European makers) have a drip tray with a water sensor, so they will shut off the water if there is any overflow. Also, the solenoid valve that controls the water is on the end of the input hose, and attaches directly to the plumbing. This means that none of the machine's internal plumbing is pressurized when the machine is not actually filling. It cost more than an average dishwasher, but the additional cost was much less than we had to spend fixing the basement... Doug On Thu, Sep 13, 2012 at 3:41 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > So it is raining in my office. Well, maybe just a few small streams, but > the dishwasher > up above me in the kitchen seems to be leaking, and leaking badly. Gosh, > didn't we > recently have a discussion about dishwasher drain lines? From jniolon at att.net Thu Sep 13 06:21:26 2012 From: jniolon at att.net (john niolon) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2012 05:21:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] mojack Message-ID: <1347538886.13910.YahooMailRC@web181502.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> bought a new ZTR mower last season and love it... but it's getting to the time when service will be needed... blade sharpening and such... been looking at the Mo-Jack mower lift systems and they look pretty neat... although somewhat expensive... anyone have any experience pro/con with them??... anyone ever build a contraption like this ?? sold my a-frame this year (dummy) and really don't have a safe way to lift this ZTR and get under it without my wife cashing in my life insurance... thanks John A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects!...Lazarus Long From wmc_st at xxiii.com Thu Sep 13 12:46:21 2012 From: wmc_st at xxiii.com (Wayne) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2012 14:46:21 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] What fun! In-Reply-To: <50518E34.40806@bradakis.com> References: <50518E34.40806@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <505229FD.8010600@xxiii.com> On 9/13/2012 3:41 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > So it is raining in my office. Well, maybe just a few small streams, but > the dishwasher > up above me in the kitchen seems to be leaking, and leaking badly. Gosh, > didn't we > recently have a discussion about dishwasher drain lines? C'mon Mark, you're the list admin. You of all people should know to make an obligatory comment about running car parts through the dishwasher to feign being "on topic" :) I went through three different rental places in 13 years as a kid, and every one had the same crappy sub $200 G.E. dishwasher. Then nearly 11 years ago, at 35 bought my first home. The dishwasher has a "Kenmore" badge on it, BUT IT'S THE SAME !@#$ G.E. POS! Arrrggghhh! I took it apart once to clean out mold and debris that was clogging the pump and drain (unrelated to the car parts I'd run through it.) And neglected to replace a gasket I'd taken out in the process, causing it to leak through the floor and onto my bench and tool box in the garage below :( I think they should all have some kinda tray or liner under them, so any leaks come out into the room and are immediately visible. I'll probably use the vinyl stuff they put in shower stall floors if I ever replace it. Would love to replace it, but now I'm single & poor and hardly use the thing anyway. Bosch is supposed to make really nice washers, and most come out of a domestic factory here in North Carolina. I have access to Consumer Reports online site, if you'd like me to pull their ratings & reports for ya'. (I value their opinion, but do not consider them an ultimate authority, particularly on some specialty products where I strongly disagree with their conclusions.) -Wayne From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Sep 13 13:41:21 2012 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2012 19:41:21 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] What fun! In-Reply-To: <505229FD.8010600@xxiii.com> Message-ID: <1703974701.1754504.1347565281206.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Happened on this in one of my av mags: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/drippan24.php -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- On 9/13/2012 3:41 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > So it is raining in my office. Well, maybe just a few small streams, but > the dishwasher > up above me in the kitchen seems to be leaking, and leaking badly. Gosh, > didn't we > recently have a discussion about dishwasher drain lines? C'mon Mark, you're the list admin. You of all people should know to make an obligatory comment about running car parts through the dishwasher to feign being "on topic" :) I went through three different rental places in 13 years as a kid, and every one had the same crappy sub $200 G.E. dishwasher. Then nearly 11 years ago, at 35 bought my first home. The dishwasher has a "Kenmore" badge on it, BUT IT'S THE SAME !@#$ G.E. POS! Arrrggghhh! I took it apart once to clean out mold and debris that was clogging the pump and drain (unrelated to the car parts I'd run through it.) And neglected to replace a gasket I'd taken out in the process, causing it to leak through the floor and onto my bench and tool box in the garage below :( I think they should all have some kinda tray or liner under them, so any leaks come out into the room and are immediately visible. I'll probably use the vinyl stuff they put in shower stall floors if I ever replace it. Would love to replace it, but now I'm single & poor and hardly use the thing anyway. Bosch is supposed to make really nice washers, and most come out of a domestic factory here in North Carolina. I have access to Consumer Reports online site, if you'd like me to pull their ratings & reports for ya'. (I value their opinion, but do not consider them an ultimate authority, particularly on some specialty products where I strongly disagree with their conclusions.) -Wayne From fishplate at gmail.com Fri Sep 14 05:42:09 2012 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 07:42:09 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Hazard Fraught Tools Message-ID: Might be off-topic, or might just be good for a laugh. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=146306 I know I've bought some of those... From tputland at charter.net Fri Sep 14 05:53:14 2012 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 07:53:14 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Hazard Fraught Tools Message-ID: <3652c8dd.3fa1f1.139c4a02b1e.Webtop.45@charter.net> Brilliant! I need that nail unbender! On Fri, Sep 14, 2012 at 6:42 AM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > Might be off-topic, or might just be good for a laugh. > > http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=146306 > > I know I've bought some of those... > _______________________________________________ From cavanadd at frontier.com Fri Sep 14 20:55:22 2012 From: cavanadd at frontier.com (Dave C) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 19:55:22 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Hazard Fraught Tools In-Reply-To: <3652c8dd.3fa1f1.139c4a02b1e.Webtop.45@charter.net> References: <3652c8dd.3fa1f1.139c4a02b1e.Webtop.45@charter.net> Message-ID: <5053EE1A.7040101@frontier.com> I think I saw the dreidel in a recent Lee Valley catalog. Or maybe Garrett Wade. On 9/14/2012 4:53 AM, Tim wrote: > Brilliant! I need that nail unbender! > > > On Fri, Sep 14, 2012 at 6:42 AM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > >> Might be off-topic, or might just be good for a laugh. >> >> http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=146306 >> >> I know I've bought some of those... >> _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd at frontier.com From kvacek at ameritech.net Sat Sep 15 08:03:25 2012 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 09:03:25 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Hazard Fraught Tools In-Reply-To: <5053EE1A.7040101@frontier.com> References: <3652c8dd.3fa1f1.139c4a02b1e.Webtop.45@charter.net> <5053EE1A.7040101@frontier.com> Message-ID: <005701cd934a$dfd0d2c0$9f727840$@ameritech.net> Excellent - best laugh of the month at least. Gotta read all the fine print too - it's hysterical. Having spent my high school and college years poring over the Warshawsky catalog (J.C. Whitney if you're not from Chicago), this brilliant piece makes me realize that Harbor Freight catalogs have taken their place in the galaxy of time wasters. From mark at bradakis.com Sun Sep 16 12:27:04 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 12:27:04 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dishwasher 1, mjb 0 Message-ID: <505619F8.6070601@bradakis.com> This dishwasher would be easy to fix IF I could roll it out a few inches. I've disconnected everything I can see, but it still seems to be hung up on something near the top of the back. Grrr.. Must be time to hit the recliner and watch some football, relax before I break something. mjb. From fishplate at gmail.com Sun Sep 16 12:33:57 2012 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 14:33:57 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dishwasher 1, mjb 0 In-Reply-To: <505619F8.6070601@bradakis.com> References: <505619F8.6070601@bradakis.com> Message-ID: You may need to lower the feet at the front, and unscrew the bracket if there is one (top center front). Also, the drain hose should be looped high at the side before it goes down to the drain/disposer. You might check that... On Sun, Sep 16, 2012 at 2:27 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > This dishwasher would be easy to fix IF I could roll it out a few inches. > I've disconnected everything I can see, but it still seems to be hung up on > something near the top of the back. Grrr.. > > Must be time to hit the recliner and watch some football, relax before I > break something. > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate at gmail.com From jamesf at groupwbench.org Sun Sep 16 12:34:35 2012 From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin) Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 14:34:35 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dishwasher 1, mjb 0 In-Reply-To: <505619F8.6070601@bradakis.com> References: <505619F8.6070601@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <36D26C0C-97B0-40A3-9B6D-8E5D46047BE6@groupwbench.org> Supply, drain, electric. Usually 2 screws at the top front to keep it from faceplanting when you open the door. Are you sure it's at the top back? If so, could it be a lip of some sort getting hung up behind the countertop that might not be flush to the wall? Did you try wheelie-ing it to drop the top of the back? Did they put the drain loop behind the DW instead on under the sink? Hard to do with the DW already in place but maybe the adjacent cabinet went in afterwards. Countertop sage from steam? Can you use a plunger to raise it while a lovely assistant pulls on the DW? jim On Sep 16, 2012, at 2:27 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > This dishwasher would be easy to fix IF I could roll it out a few inches. > I've disconnected everything I can see, but it still seems to be hung up on > something near the top of the back. Grrr.. > > Must be time to hit the recliner and watch some football, relax before I > break something. > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf at groupwbench.org From mark at bradakis.com Sun Sep 16 13:36:26 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 13:36:26 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dishwasher 1, mjb 0 In-Reply-To: <36D26C0C-97B0-40A3-9B6D-8E5D46047BE6@groupwbench.org> References: <505619F8.6070601@bradakis.com> <36D26C0C-97B0-40A3-9B6D-8E5D46047BE6@groupwbench.org> Message-ID: <50562A3A.5060502@bradakis.com> Well the pleasant stroll down to the convenience store to pick up a sunday paper did the trick. Got home, went back to the dishwasher and immediately spotted another anti faceplant bracket I hadn't seen before. I feel much better now. mjb. From eric at megageek.com Mon Sep 17 11:05:51 2012 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 13:05:51 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw: [HackettstownNJ] OFFER: MGB & MGA auto parts (Long Valley, NJ) Message-ID: I know most of you are MG guys. This was just posted to my local Freecycle. (Means they are offering these for free.) Contact them if you are interested. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson ----- Forwarded by Eric Petrevich/Megageek on 09/17/2012 01:09 PM ----- "JoeKeyes" <23989405 at posts.freecycle.org> Sent by: My Freecycle 09/17/2012 01:03 PM To "inchman" cc Subject [HackettstownNJ] OFFER: MGB & MGA auto parts (Long Valley, NJ) OFFER: MGB & MGA auto parts MGB & A parts, all in serviceable or rebuild-able condition. MGB 5-main engine & parts: Stripped short block (no cylinder head) in good condition, surface rust Two 5-main cranks, 1 in usable condition, the other has slight scoring on #3 connecting rod journal Four pistons connecting rods Camshaft, CB>-grind, timing chain sprocket and new bearing set Flywheel & rear plate Exhaust manifold Two carbs & manifold Water pump Oil Pump Timing cover Distributor (set up for Webber carbs) Miscellaneous engine parts MGA parts Valve cover, original MGA, needs re-painting 4 2-earred knock- offs (fine thread) 4 wire-wheels + tires (used, but still in good condition) C"b,b wheels need rebuilding/retuning Steering wheel & centerpiece C"b,B&and other miscellaneous MG parts View all items Make a post Contact your Group Moderators Switch to digest email Unsubscribe from emails Leave the local Group [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] From jibjib at att.net Mon Sep 17 18:01:32 2012 From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 17:01:32 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw: [HackettstownNJ] OFFER: MGB & MGA auto parts (Long Valley, NJ) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Eric, Some of us, including the big guy behind the curtain, take offense to being called MG guys. Jack 1960 Triumph TR3 1980 Triumph TR8 ps - Hey, it's like the Ford-Chevy thing. . . . . . -----Original Message----- From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of eric at megageek.com Sent: Monday, September 17, 2012 10:06 AM To: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw: [HackettstownNJ] OFFER: MGB & MGA auto parts (Long Valley, NJ) I know most of you are MG guys. This was just posted to my local Freecycle. (Means they are offering these for free.) Contact them if you are interested. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson ----- Forwarded by Eric Petrevich/Megageek on 09/17/2012 01:09 PM ----- "JoeKeyes" <23989405 at posts.freecycle.org> Sent by: My Freecycle 09/17/2012 01:03 PM To "inchman" cc Subject [HackettstownNJ] OFFER: MGB & MGA auto parts (Long Valley, NJ) OFFER: MGB & MGA auto parts MGB & A parts, all in serviceable or rebuild-able condition. MGB 5-main engine & parts: Stripped short block (no cylinder head) in good condition, surface rust Two 5-main cranks, 1 in usable condition, the other has slight scoring on #3 connecting rod journal Four pistons connecting rods Camshaft, CB>-grind, timing chain sprocket and new bearing set Flywheel & rear plate Exhaust manifold Two carbs & manifold Water pump Oil Pump Timing cover Distributor (set up for Webber carbs) Miscellaneous engine parts MGA parts Valve cover, original MGA, needs re-painting 4 2-earred knock- offs (fine thread) 4 wire-wheels + tires (used, but still in good condition) C"b,b wheels need rebuilding/retuning Steering wheel & centerpiece C"b,B&and other miscellaneous MG parts View all items Make a post Contact your Group Moderators Switch to digest email Unsubscribe from emails Leave the local Group [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibjib at att.net From mark at bradakis.com Mon Sep 17 18:12:22 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 18:12:22 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw: [HackettstownNJ] OFFER: MGB & MGA auto parts (Long Valley, NJ) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5057BC66.4040506@bradakis.com> Jack Brooks wrote: > Eric, > > Some of us, including the big guy behind the curtain, take offense to being > called MG guys. > > I've mentioned before that I wonder if my life would have been different had my middle name been George. mJb. From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Sep 17 18:28:13 2012 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 17:28:13 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw: [HackettstownNJ] OFFER: MGB & MGA auto parts (Long Valley, NJ) In-Reply-To: <5057BC66.4040506@bradakis.com> References: <5057BC66.4040506@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <5057C01D.8060608@comcast.net> Instead of Jaguar? On 9/17/2012 5:12 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > Jack Brooks wrote: >> Eric, >> >> Some of us, including the big guy behind the curtain, take offense to being >> called MG guys. >> >> > > I've mentioned before that I wonder if my life would have been different > had my middle name been George. > > mJb. > _______________________________________________ > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From berry at kerch.com Mon Sep 17 18:35:53 2012 From: berry at kerch.com (Berry Kercheval) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 17:35:53 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dishwasher 1, mjb 0 In-Reply-To: <50562A3A.5060502@bradakis.com> References: <505619F8.6070601@bradakis.com> <36D26C0C-97B0-40A3-9B6D-8E5D46047BE6@groupwbench.org> <50562A3A.5060502@bradakis.com> Message-ID: An old friend used to say that when you got stuck, you should stop, consume some "prayer fluid" and wait for inspiration from the Gods of Home (or Auto) Repair. "Prayer Fluid" is made primarily from malted barley, hops, yeast and water. Amazing how often it worked. On Sun, Sep 16, 2012 at 12:36 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > Well the pleasant stroll down to the convenience store to pick up a sunday > paper did the trick. Got home, went back to the dishwasher and > immediately > spotted another anti faceplant bracket I hadn't seen before. From mark at bradakis.com Mon Sep 17 19:05:15 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 19:05:15 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dishwasher 1, mjb 0 In-Reply-To: References: <505619F8.6070601@bradakis.com> <36D26C0C-97B0-40A3-9B6D-8E5D46047BE6@groupwbench.org> <50562A3A.5060502@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <5057C8CB.3010903@bradakis.com> Berry Kercheval wrote: > An old friend used to say that when you got stuck, you should stop, > consume some "prayer fluid" and wait for inspiration from the Gods of > Home (or Auto) Repair. > > "Prayer Fluid" is made primarily from malted barley, hops, yeast and > water. > > Amazing how often it worked. Yes indeed. And working on this dishwasher is a lot like working on my Triumphs. A breaks. I fix A, it disturbs B. I fix B, it disturbs C. I fix C ... mjb. From brabel at comcast.net Mon Sep 17 19:22:37 2012 From: brabel at comcast.net (Bill Rabel) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 18:22:37 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dishwasher 1, mjb 0 In-Reply-To: <5057C8CB.3010903@bradakis.com> References: <505619F8.6070601@bradakis.com> <36D26C0C-97B0-40A3-9B6D-8E5D46047BE6@groupwbench.org> <50562A3A.5060502@bradakis.com> <5057C8CB.3010903@bradakis.com> Message-ID: That's not prayer fluid. I call that a "brown wrench", a critical tool for many tasks. On Sep 17, 2012, at 6:05 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > Berry Kercheval wrote: >> An old friend used to say that when you got stuck, you should stop, consume some "prayer fluid" and wait for inspiration from the Gods of Home (or Auto) Repair. >> >> "Prayer Fluid" is made primarily from malted barley, hops, yeast and water. >> >> Amazing how often it worked. > > Yes indeed. And working on this dishwasher is a lot like working on my Triumphs. > > A breaks. > > I fix A, it disturbs B. > > I fix B, it disturbs C. > > I fix C ... > > > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/brabel at comcast.net From mark at bradakis.com Mon Sep 17 19:43:49 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 19:43:49 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw: [HackettstownNJ] OFFER: MGB & MGA auto parts (Long Valley, NJ) In-Reply-To: <5057C01D.8060608@comcast.net> References: <5057BC66.4040506@bradakis.com> <5057C01D.8060608@comcast.net> Message-ID: <5057D1D5.1090803@bradakis.com> Bob Spidell wrote: > Instead of Jaguar? > Not Jaguar, Jowett - as in Jupiter. There's an obscure one! mjb. From battmain at yahoo.com Mon Sep 17 19:57:44 2012 From: battmain at yahoo.com (Battmain) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 18:57:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Dishwasher 1, mjb 0 In-Reply-To: References: <505619F8.6070601@bradakis.com> <36D26C0C-97B0-40A3-9B6D-8E5D46047BE6@groupwbench.org> <50562A3A.5060502@bradakis.com> <5057C8CB.3010903@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <1347933464.37260.YahooMailNeo@web140005.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Some of us call it a BFH? (Big bleep Hammer.) Must be the geographical location. :) Brian >________________________________ > From: Bill Rabel >To: >Cc: shop-talk List >Sent: Monday, September 17, 2012 9:22 PM >Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Dishwasher 1, mjb 0 > >That's not prayer fluid. I call that a "brown wrench", a critical tool for >many tasks. > (snip) From jibjib at att.net Mon Sep 17 21:11:53 2012 From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 20:11:53 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dishwasher 1, mjb 0 In-Reply-To: <5057C8CB.3010903@bradakis.com> References: <505619F8.6070601@bradakis.com><36D26C0C-97B0-40A3-9B6D-8E5D46047BE6@groupwbench.org><50562A3A.5060502@bradakis.com> <5057C8CB.3010903@bradakis.com> Message-ID: >A breaks. > >I fix A, it disturbs B. > >I fix B, it disturbs C. > >I fix C ... Now that's plumbing! -----Original Message----- From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: Monday, September 17, 2012 6:05 PM To: shop-talk List Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Dishwasher 1, mjb 0 Berry Kercheval wrote: > An old friend used to say that when you got stuck, you should stop, > consume some "prayer fluid" and wait for inspiration from the Gods of > Home (or Auto) Repair. > > "Prayer Fluid" is made primarily from malted barley, hops, yeast and > water. > > Amazing how often it worked. Yes indeed. And working on this dishwasher is a lot like working on my Triumphs. A breaks. I fix A, it disturbs B. I fix B, it disturbs C. I fix C ... mjb. _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibjib at att.net From brabel at comcast.net Mon Sep 17 21:11:37 2012 From: brabel at comcast.net (Bill Rabel) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 20:11:37 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dishwasher 1, mjb 0 In-Reply-To: <1347933464.37260.YahooMailNeo@web140005.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <505619F8.6070601@bradakis.com> <36D26C0C-97B0-40A3-9B6D-8E5D46047BE6@groupwbench.org> <50562A3A.5060502@bradakis.com> <5057C8CB.3010903@bradakis.com> <1347933464.37260.YahooMailNeo@web140005.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: No, not a hammer. A brown wrench is a brown glass bottle, containing what some call prayer fluid. Geez, ya gotta spell it out. Sent from my iPhone On Sep 17, 2012, at 6:57 PM, Battmain wrote: > Some of us call it a BFH? (Big bleep Hammer.) Must be the geographical > location. :) > > Brian > >> ________________________________ >> From: Bill Rabel > >> To: >> Cc: shop-talk List >> Sent: Monday, September 17, 2012 9:22 PM >> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Dishwasher > 1, mjb 0 >> >> That's not prayer fluid. I call that a "brown wrench", a critical > tool for >> many tasks. >> > (snip) > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/brabel at comcast.net From tputland at charter.net Tue Sep 18 05:17:07 2012 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2012 07:17:07 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Dishwasher 1, mjb 0 Message-ID: <11d52531.429a80.139d91889f4.Webtop.43@charter.net> Prayer Fluid.....possibly a better penetrant AND lubricant than Kroil, PB Blaster and WD40 combined? On Mon, Sep 17, 2012 at 7:35 PM, Berry Kercheval wrote: > An old friend used to say that when you got stuck, you should stop, > consume > some "prayer fluid" and wait for inspiration from the Gods of Home (or > Auto) Repair. > > "Prayer Fluid" is made primarily from malted barley, hops, yeast and > water. > > Amazing how often it worked. > > On Sun, Sep 16, 2012 at 12:36 PM, Mark J Bradakis > wrote: > >> Well the pleasant stroll down to the convenience store to pick up a >> sunday >> paper did the trick. Got home, went back to the dishwasher and >> immediately >> spotted another anti faceplant bracket I hadn't seen before. > _______________________________________________ From ericm at lne.com Wed Sep 19 12:41:06 2012 From: ericm at lne.com (Eric Murray) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 11:41:06 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] mojack In-Reply-To: <1347538886.13910.YahooMailRC@web181502.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1347538886.13910.YahooMailRC@web181502.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <505A11C2.8060706@lne.com> On 09/13/2012 05:21 AM, john niolon wrote: > bought a new ZTR mower last season and love it... but it's getting to the time > when service will be needed... blade sharpening and such... been looking at > the Mo-Jack mower lift systems and they look pretty neat... although somewhat > expensive... anyone have any experience pro/con with them??... anyone ever build > a contraption like this ?? sold my a-frame this year (dummy) and really don't > have a safe way to lift this ZTR and get under it without my wife cashing in my > life insurance... > On my lawn tractor I raise the deck as high as it'll go and reach under with a wrench to undo the bolt that holds each blade on its hub. It's not hard to do. The blade's got to come off to be sharpened anyhow. I use the bench grinder and files to get the parts that I can't sharpen with the grinder. Then a quick balance check (stick a screwdriver in the center hole and grind metal off the low side). If raising the deck doesn't give you enough space you could make some low ramps out of 2x6s. I think I used a couple 2x6 scraps the first time so I could see how the blades were attached. Now I can do it without looking. Eric From pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com Mon Sep 24 14:06:55 2012 From: pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com (PJ McGarvey) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 16:06:55 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet Message-ID: My Harbor Freight MIG welder and welding helmet have been on the shelf for a few years gathering dust. I might have an excuse to use both of them soon. I took a peak at the helmet thinking maybe the batteries might need replacing, but it doesn't appear to use any.. So it looks like it uses a panel of some kind to detect the light from the arc and flips on and darkens the shield. I took a look at it and all seems to be in order. I remember using it with good success before. So I just want to be safe here, is there anything I can/should do to test this out so I know it will work when I spark up the welder? It didn't seem to respond much to normal flashlight light... My retinas thank you. -PJ From fishplate at gmail.com Mon Sep 24 14:31:30 2012 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 16:31:30 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Mon, Sep 24, 2012 at 4:06 PM, PJ McGarvey wrote: > So I just want to be safe here, is there anything I can/should do to test this > out so I know it will work when I spark up the welder? Mine will darken when pointed at the sun... Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From kvacek at ameritech.net Mon Sep 24 14:52:24 2012 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 15:52:24 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001501cd9a96$80521f90$80f65eb0$@ameritech.net> Typically these shields default to dark if there's no power, though I don't know about the Hazard Fraught models. One other consideration is that even though they may not darken for some reason, there's supposed to be adequate UV protection even in the "light" condition. It may not be comfortable to view welding through a light lens, but it's not supposed to be harmful, so testing shouldn't be particularly hazardous. And, like Jeff, mine (an old Sellstrom that uses AAA battteries) darkens in sunlight when it's on and has good batteries. Karl -----Original Message----- From: PJ McGarvey Subject: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet My Harbor Freight MIG welder and welding helmet have been on the shelf for a few years gathering dust. I might have an excuse to use both of them soon. I took a peak at the helmet thinking maybe the batteries might need replacing, but it doesn't appear to use any.. So it looks like it uses a panel of some kind to detect the light from the arc and flips on and darkens the shield. I took a look at it and all seems to be in order. I remember using it with good success before. So I just want to be safe here, is there anything I can/should do to test this out so I know it will work when I spark up the welder? It didn't seem to respond much to normal flashlight light... My retinas thank you. -PJ From strovato at optonline.net Mon Sep 24 15:03:26 2012 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 17:03:26 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet In-Reply-To: <001501cd9a96$80521f90$80f65eb0$@ameritech.net> References: <001501cd9a96$80521f90$80f65eb0$@ameritech.net> Message-ID: <0MAV007GBH7JGXY0@mta3.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Mine, also a battery powered model, darkens in sunlight and even when just looking directly at a light bulb. Another interesting thing, I can darken mine with a TV remote control. -Steve Trovato strovato at optonline.net At 04:52 PM 9/24/2012, Karl Vacek wrote: >And, like Jeff, mine (an old Sellstrom that uses AAA battteries) darkens in >sunlight when it's on and has good batteries. > >Karl From doug at dougbraun.com Mon Sep 24 15:09:28 2012 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 17:09:28 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet In-Reply-To: <001501cd9a96$80521f90$80f65eb0$@ameritech.net> References: <001501cd9a96$80521f90$80f65eb0$@ameritech.net> Message-ID: Look at the sun through the helmet, and rapidly wave your hand in front of the sensor. That should definitely make it darken. Doug From pat at hornesystemstx.com Mon Sep 24 16:18:41 2012 From: pat at hornesystemstx.com (Pat Horne) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 17:18:41 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5060DC41.8050604@hornesystemstx.com> I have a 10 year old Hobart helmet that does not have batteries either. After sitting for a long time. when I started welding, the window didn't darken. I left it sitting facing the sun for a couple hours, after which it worked fine. You might want to give that a try. Peace, Pat Thusly spake PJ McGarvey > My Harbor Freight MIG welder and welding helmet have been on the shelf for a > few years gathering dust. I might have an excuse to use both of them soon. I > took a peak at the helmet thinking maybe the batteries might need replacing, > but it doesn't appear to use any.. So it looks like it uses a panel of some > kind to detect the light from the arc and flips on and darkens the shield. I > took a look at it and all seems to be in order. I remember using it with good > success before. > > So I just want to be safe here, is there anything I can/should do to test this > out so I know it will work when I spark up the welder? It didn't seem to > respond much to normal flashlight light... My retinas thank you. -PJ > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat at hornesystemstx.com > > > Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems (512) 797-7501 Voice & Text 5026 FM 2001 Pat at HorneSystemsTx.com Lockhart, TX 78644-4443 www.hornesystemstx.com -- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT -- From fishplate at gmail.com Mon Sep 24 16:43:03 2012 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 18:43:03 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Mon, Sep 24, 2012 at 4:31 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > On Mon, Sep 24, 2012 at 4:06 PM, PJ McGarvey wrote: >> So I just want to be safe here, is there anything I can/should do to test this >> out so I know it will work when I spark up the welder? > > Mine will darken when pointed at the sun... Having said that, there may be some tiny batteries somewhere... Page 7 of this document http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/46000-46999/46092.pdf states that my helmet has 3V lithium cells for backup, that typically last 6 years and don't need to be changed. From phoenix722 at comcast.net Mon Sep 24 17:51:59 2012 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 16:51:59 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet References: Message-ID: <875CF56AC2664DABB473D1EC6A8630F2@Mike> Does this mean when the batteries do wear out after six years you just throw everything away? What a crazy marketing environment we live in! Mike > Having said that, there may be some tiny batteries somewhere... Page > 7 of this document > http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/46000-46999/46092.pdf states > that my helmet has 3V lithium cells for backup, that typically last 6 > years and don't need to be changed. From fishplate at gmail.com Mon Sep 24 18:21:22 2012 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 20:21:22 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet In-Reply-To: <875CF56AC2664DABB473D1EC6A8630F2@Mike> References: <875CF56AC2664DABB473D1EC6A8630F2@Mike> Message-ID: On Mon, Sep 24, 2012 at 7:51 PM, Mike wrote: > Does this mean when the batteries do wear out after six years you just throw > everything away? What a crazy marketing environment we live in! I'm pretty sure you can replace the batteries. Maybe they expect you'll wear out the helmet before then... From bk13 at earthlink.net Mon Sep 24 18:33:51 2012 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 17:33:51 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Non-Ferrous miter saw blade? Message-ID: <5060FBEF.6060304@earthlink.net> I'm doing a railing project and was looking for a Non-Ferrous blade for my 10" miter saw, but Lowes and Home Depot don't appear to have them in the stores. I want it for the weekend, so don't want to have to order online. I only have six cuts to make in a powder coated extruded aluminum top rail if all is good, so also don't want to spend a bunch. What is special about about a blade to make it good for non-ferrous metals like aluminum? Since I only have a few cuts, can I get a clean edge from a cheap regular 10" blade? Are more teeth better? Four of the cuts will be mitered corners, so I want them to be clean. This will not be long term production, so durability is not a concern. I was considering going to look at Harbor Freight. They have the two blades below that may be at my local store. http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch-40-tooth-carbide-tipped-circular-saw-blade-with-titanium-nitride-coating-93893.html or http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch-40-tooth-m2-high-speed-steel-tipped-saw-blade-529.html I also have an abrasive metal cutting blade I used on 3/16" steel, but assume that will not give me a clean cut. I have a little extra length in the top rail segments, so will make a test cut first. Thanks for any recommendations, Brian From fishplate at gmail.com Mon Sep 24 19:31:29 2012 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 21:31:29 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Non-Ferrous miter saw blade? In-Reply-To: <5060FBEF.6060304@earthlink.net> References: <5060FBEF.6060304@earthlink.net> Message-ID: On Mon, Sep 24, 2012 at 8:33 PM, Brian Kemp wrote: > What is special about about a blade to make it good for non-ferrous metals > like aluminum? Since I only have a few cuts, can I get a clean edge from a > cheap regular 10" blade? Whenever I've made cuts in plastic (like PVC pipe) I turned the blade around backwards. Got the cleanest cut you could imagine, with no chipping. Never tried it in metal, but if you had a scrap you could test, I'd find it interesting... If you try this: Be sure to clamp or restrain your workpiece carefully. I can think of all sorts of ways for it to go wrong, and I have the fused finger bones to show for it. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From doug at dougbraun.com Mon Sep 24 20:25:32 2012 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 22:25:32 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Non-Ferrous miter saw blade? In-Reply-To: References: <5060FBEF.6060304@earthlink.net> Message-ID: I have cut aluminum with my normal miter saw blade. It worked reasonably well, and I continued to use the blade for wood. Doug On Mon, Sep 24, 2012 at 9:31 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > On Mon, Sep 24, 2012 at 8:33 PM, Brian Kemp wrote: > > What is special about about a blade to make it good for non-ferrous > metals > > like aluminum? Since I only have a few cuts, can I get a clean edge > from a > > cheap regular 10" blade? From jibjib at att.net Mon Sep 24 20:28:10 2012 From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 19:28:10 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet In-Reply-To: References: <875CF56AC2664DABB473D1EC6A8630F2@Mike> Message-ID: I think I've already gone in deep enough to be pretty sure that you can replace the batteries. Jack -----Original Message----- From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeff Scarbrough Sent: Monday, September 24, 2012 5:21 PM To: shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet On Mon, Sep 24, 2012 at 7:51 PM, Mike wrote: > Does this mean when the batteries do wear out after six years you just throw > everything away? What a crazy marketing environment we live in! I'm pretty sure you can replace the batteries. Maybe they expect you'll wear out the helmet before then... _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibjib at att.net From cavanadd at frontier.com Mon Sep 24 20:45:30 2012 From: cavanadd at frontier.com (Dave C) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 19:45:30 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet In-Reply-To: References: <875CF56AC2664DABB473D1EC6A8630F2@Mike> Message-ID: <50611ACA.9020403@frontier.com> When you figure out how, please let us know. I have a couple of them at school. One way I test the helmet is to strike a flint striker in front of it. That usually causes it to darken. On 9/24/2012 7:28 PM, Jack Brooks wrote: > I think I've already gone in deep enough to be pretty sure that you can > replace the batteries. > > Jack From jibjib at att.net Mon Sep 24 21:14:40 2012 From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 20:14:40 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet In-Reply-To: <50611ACA.9020403@frontier.com> References: <875CF56AC2664DABB473D1EC6A8630F2@Mike> <50611ACA.9020403@frontier.com> Message-ID: Dave, On my helmet, which is a HF helmet, I found the batteries. The very bottom of the electrical assembly has a small raised tab on the right side. This is on the lowest portion of the electrical assembly, facing directly back at your face. Pushing this left and lifting reveals two AAA batteries. it is basically a snap on access panel. This may be easier if you remove the two thumbscrews holding the entire electrical assembly in place, just as you would do if you were going to change out the clear glass on the outside of the helmet and them pull the assembly out of the helmet entirely. Jack -----Original Message----- From: Dave C [mailto:cavanadd at frontier.com] Sent: Monday, September 24, 2012 7:46 PM To: Jack Brooks Cc: 'shop-talk at autox.team.net' Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet When you figure out how, please let us know. I have a couple of them at school. One way I test the helmet is to strike a flint striker in front of it. That usually causes it to darken. On 9/24/2012 7:28 PM, Jack Brooks wrote: > I think I've already gone in deep enough to be pretty sure that you can > replace the batteries. > > Jack From hillman at planet-torque.com Tue Sep 25 11:12:57 2012 From: hillman at planet-torque.com (David Hillman) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2012 13:12:57 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Non-Ferrous miter saw blade? In-Reply-To: <5060FBEF.6060304@earthlink.net> References: <5060FBEF.6060304@earthlink.net> Message-ID: On Mon, 24 Sep 2012, Brian Kemp wrote: > I'm doing a railing project and was looking for a Non-Ferrous blade for my > 10" miter saw, but Lowes and Home Depot don't appear to have them in the > stores. I want it for the weekend, so don't want to have to order online. I > only have six cuts to make in a powder coated extruded aluminum top rail if > all is good, so also don't want to spend a bunch. > > What is special about about a blade to make it good for non-ferrous metals > like aluminum? Since I only have a few cuts, can I get a clean edge from a > cheap regular 10" blade? Are more teeth better? Four of the cuts will be > mitered corners, so I want them to be clean. This will not be long term > production, so durability is not a concern. Actually, it's the opposite... a ferrous metal blade is special. There's nothing special at all about a non-ferrous blade, in fact, you can cut aluminium with most wood-working tools just fine (routers, etc). Obviously, be careful, and secure the work, but you don't really need anything special. If that's not good enough, get one of these from Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Evolution-Power-Tools-RAGE255-Circular/dp/B00249JDY4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1348592805&sr=8-4&keywords=evolution+blade Unless you live in some serious hinterland, I bet Amazon will get you this before the weekend. I have a similar blade in my Evolution saw, and it is extremely handy, and leaves a perfect edge on everything. -- David Hillman From tputland at charter.net Tue Sep 25 13:05:35 2012 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2012 15:05:35 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] totally OT--- Polycom Message-ID: <62de00b2.3ead17.139fed1f118.Webtop.44@charter.net> Anyone out there have (extensive) knowledge of Polycom video conferencing systems? I think I have asked this group befor but am hoping for help again.... PLEASE, contact me offlist if you can answer some trouble shooting questions; especially feedback while connected to a three way call. thanks! tim From pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com Tue Sep 25 18:18:00 2012 From: pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com (PJ McGarvey) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2012 20:18:00 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet In-Reply-To: References: <875CF56AC2664DABB473D1EC6A8630F2@Mike>, , , <50611ACA.9020403@frontier.com>, Message-ID: Not sure why it wasn't working so well before, but I did clean up the lens a bit and a bright 75 watt bulb seems to confirm it works OK. I'll assume batteries are OK for the time being. Now to see if the welder is fraught with hazard.. Thanks > From: jibjib at att.net > To: Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 20:14:40 -0700 > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet > > Dave, > > On my helmet, which is a HF helmet, I found the batteries. The very bottom > of the electrical assembly has a small raised tab on the right side. This is > on the lowest portion of the electrical assembly, facing directly back at > your face. Pushing this left and lifting reveals two AAA batteries. it is > basically a snap on access panel. > > This may be easier if you remove the two thumbscrews holding the entire > electrical assembly in place, just as you would do if you were going to > change out the clear glass on the outside of the helmet and them pull the > assembly out of the helmet entirely. > > Jack > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Dave C [mailto:cavanadd at frontier.com] > Sent: Monday, September 24, 2012 7:46 PM > To: Jack Brooks > Cc: 'shop-talk at autox.team.net' > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet > > When you figure out how, please let us know. I have a couple of them at > school. > > One way I test the helmet is to strike a flint striker in front of it. > That usually causes it to darken. > > > On 9/24/2012 7:28 PM, Jack Brooks wrote: > > I think I've already gone in deep enough to be pretty sure that you can > > replace the batteries. > > > > Jack > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com From mbarre at juno.com Wed Sep 26 13:49:40 2012 From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2012 19:49:40 GMT Subject: [Shop-talk] Tech question - for the shop Message-ID: <20120926.154940.27021.0@webmail13.vgs.untd.com> My home wifi barely makes it to the shop - not a reliable signal. In attempting to provide a usable signal, would I be better off trying one of the signal repeater/boosters like this:http://tinyurl.com/8s4jdch Which may or may not provide enough boost.Although a side benefit is it would surely improve access around the pool area - and perhaps even induce personnel of great visual appeal to frequent the area with their pads, smart phones & readers... Or one of the power line gadgets, like this:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833127386 From battmain at yahoo.com Wed Sep 26 14:34:11 2012 From: battmain at yahoo.com (Battmain) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2012 13:34:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Tech question - for the shop In-Reply-To: <20120926.154940.27021.0@webmail13.vgs.untd.com> References: <20120926.154940.27021.0@webmail13.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <1348691651.18598.YahooMailNeo@web140006.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> I used something similar to your first one... http://www.compusa.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=560158 1&CatId=372 I did have to run a wire to a location closer to where I was for it work 'reliably.' Then to keep it working reliably for the wireless devices attached to that new router, I had to turn off the DHCP server. This allowed the main router to dish out IPs. I initially tried the new router in 'repeater' mode and it while it did work, it was not reliable nor stable. Depending on how long your run is, it might save your sanity by running a direct burial cat6 out to a location closer to where it is needed, then attach the device of your choice to that cable. You can still use the main router to dish out IPs as mentioned before. Regards, Brian >________________________________ > From: Matt >To: shop-talk at autox.team.net >Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2012 3:49 PM >Subject: [Shop-talk] Tech question - for the shop > >My home wifi barely makes it to the shop - not a reliable signal. In >attempting to provide a usable signal, would I be better off trying one of the >signal repeater/boosters like this:http://tinyurl.com/8s4jdch Which may or may >not provide enough boost.Although a side benefit is it would surely improve >access around the pool area - and perhaps even induce personnel of great >visual appeal to frequent the area with their pads, smart phones & readers... >Or one of the power line gadgets, like >this:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833127386 >_______________________________________________ > >Shop-talk at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.96 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/battmain at yahoo.com From peterwmurray at gmail.com Wed Sep 26 15:08:14 2012 From: peterwmurray at gmail.com (Peter Murray) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2012 17:08:14 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Tech question - for the shop In-Reply-To: <1348691651.18598.YahooMailNeo@web140006.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <20120926.154940.27021.0@webmail13.vgs.untd.com> <1348691651.18598.YahooMailNeo@web140006.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: If you can run a wire to the shop or get the network-over-powerline adapters to work, that would work best - just locate an access point right there in the shop. If that isn't possible, consider installing an access point (as close as possible to the shop) with a directional antenna that focuses the power towards the desired areas of coverage. Do you have any signal whatsoever in the shop? If so, something like this may work: http://www.ubnt.com/airmax#nanostationm I have used the Nanostation Loco M5 (5GHz), and it has been great. Good throughput and durable enough for outside use (exposed to rain, snow, ice, etc). Alternatively, if your main access point (from which you don't have sufficient signal) has external detachable antennas, you could try buying a single directional and pointing it towards the shop and seeing if that solves the coverage issue. It won't affect your current coverage by much at all. -Peter (N3IXY) On Wed, Sep 26, 2012 at 4:34 PM, Battmain wrote: > I used something similar to your first one... > http://www.compusa.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=560158 > 1&CatId=372 > > > I did have to run a wire to a location closer to where I was for > it work 'reliably.' Then to keep it working reliably for the wireless > devices attached to that new router, I had to turn off the DHCP server. This > allowed the main router to dish out IPs. I initially tried the new router in > 'repeater' mode and it while it did work, it was not reliable nor stable. > Depending on how long your run is, it might save your sanity by running a > direct burial cat6 out to a location closer to where it is needed, then attach > the device of your choice to that cable. You can still use the main router to > dish out IPs as mentioned before. > > Regards, > Brian >>________________________________ >> From: Matt >>To: > shop-talk at autox.team.net >>Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2012 3:49 PM >>Subject: [Shop-talk] Tech question - for the shop >> >>My home wifi barely > makes it to the shop - not a reliable signal. In >>attempting to provide a > usable signal, would I be better off trying one of the >>signal > repeater/boosters like this:http://tinyurl.com/8s4jdch Which may or may >>not > provide enough boost.Although a side benefit is it would surely improve >>access around the pool area - and perhaps even induce personnel of great >>visual appeal to frequent the area with their pads, smart phones & readers... >>Or one of the power line gadgets, like >>this:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833127386 >>_______________________________________________ >> >>Shop-talk at autox.team.net >>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>Suggested annual donation $12.96 >>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/battmain at yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray at gmail.com From ejrussell at mebtel.net Wed Sep 26 20:04:56 2012 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2012 22:04:56 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] cheap pails Message-ID: A friend showed me this 'trick' a few years ago. I suppose y'all already knew this but none of youse guys told me... Anyway, use a can opener (the kind you'd use to open a can of beans) to remove the rim from a paint can when it's empty. After washing them out gallon size paint cans (with the bail handle) make useful buckets. Quart size make useful small pails &/or paint holders (I like to dispense paint into them rather 'contaminate' the original paint can). Eric Russell Mebane, NC From nick at landform.co.uk Thu Sep 27 04:49:06 2012 From: nick at landform.co.uk (nick brearley) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2012 11:49:06 +0100 Subject: [Shop-talk] Tech question - for the shop In-Reply-To: <20120926.154940.27021.0@webmail13.vgs.untd.com> References: <20120926.154940.27021.0@webmail13.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <50642F22.4050703@landform.co.uk> Matt wrote: > My home wifi barely makes it to the shop - not a reliable signal. In > attempting to provide a usable signal, would I be better off trying one of the > signal repeater/boosters like this:http://tinyurl.com/8s4jdch Which may or may > not provide enough boost.Although a side benefit is it would surely improve > access around the pool area - and perhaps even induce personnel of great > visual appeal to frequent the area with their pads, smart phones & readers... > Or one of the power line gadgets, like > this:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833127386 > _______________________________________________ > > Matt, I've used the Netgear wi-fi version of the newegg product for a year. See http://tinyurl.com/br844uh It's worked well in the house which is an old brick building and out in the shop which is separate from the house. You could install one near the pool but I can't say that using one has resulted in the appearance of any POGVAs in my shop... Nick From mbarre at juno.com Thu Sep 27 05:49:22 2012 From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2012 11:49:22 GMT Subject: [Shop-talk] Tech question - for the shop Message-ID: <20120927.074922.14201.0@webmail08.vgs.untd.com> As usual, the group came through with excellent info. Logistics ultimately made the call though, I started to order the lower cost, wifi booster only to find they were sold out so I shifted to the wired solution. I will post a short report when I get it hooked up. Thanks guys!Matt ---------- Original Message ---------- From: nick brearley To: Matt Cc: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tech question - for the shop Matt wrote: > My home wifi barely makes it to the shop - not a reliable signal. > _______________________________________________ Matt, I've used the Netgear wi-fi version of the newegg product for a year. See http://tinyurl.com/br844uh It's worked well in the house which is an old brick building and out in the shop which is separate from the house. You could install one near the pool but I can't say that using one has resulted in the appearance of any POGVAs in my shop... Nick From rkg at teleport.com Thu Sep 27 08:17:45 2012 From: rkg at teleport.com (Richard George) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2012 07:17:45 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Tech question - for the shop In-Reply-To: <20120927.074922.14201.0@webmail08.vgs.untd.com> References: <20120927.074922.14201.0@webmail08.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <50646009.7060500@teleport.com> Hi, I guess I'm too late to this thread, but I have a pretty long house with lots of obstructions and was having trouble getting a decent signal in the kid's room - putting a parabolic reflector on the antennas on the wifi box using the following design did the trick for me: http://limetrip.blogspot.com/2011/08/build-your-own-homemade-wi-fi-signal.html http://www.freeantennas.com/projects/template2/index.html Best, rkg (Richard George) On 9/27/2012 4:49 AM, Matt wrote: > As usual, the group came through with excellent info. Logistics ultimately > made the call though, I started to order the lower cost, wifi booster only to > find they were sold out so I shifted to the wired solution. I will post a > short report when I get it hooked up. Thanks guys!Matt > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: nick brearley > To: Matt > Cc: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tech question - for the shop > > Matt wrote: >> My home wifi barely makes it to the shop - not a reliable signal. >> _______________________________________________ > > Matt, > I've used the Netgear wi-fi version of the newegg product for a year. See > http://tinyurl.com/br844uh > It's worked well in the house which is an old brick building and out in > the shop which is separate from the house. You could install one near > the pool but I can't say that using one has resulted in the appearance > of any POGVAs in my shop... > Nick > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rkg at teleport.com From jibjib at att.net Thu Sep 27 18:14:46 2012 From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2012 17:14:46 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Tech question - for the shop In-Reply-To: <50646009.7060500@teleport.com> References: <20120927.074922.14201.0@webmail08.vgs.untd.com> <50646009.7060500@teleport.com> Message-ID: <020C6BC568724FAEAE63028D5022E665@EntCentPC> There is another choice. I reflashed my Linksys WRT54G router (others will work too) with Tomato software. The Linksys is set to transmit at a fairly low percentage of it's available power. The standard is 47 of 256 on the scale, yeah, about 20% of max. The recommendation on the street is to go to 100. It's a bit more of a complex solution, but doable. I have a friend who built a coffee can antenna and transmitted wifi over 10 miles, line of sight to a buddies home, across a bay. He's a Boeing electrical engineer and does stuff like that for fun. I am not using that boosted signal option. I hardwired the entire house and only have one or two non-critical wireless devices running. The can get what they get. Jack -----Original Message----- From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard George Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2012 7:18 AM To: Matt; shoptalk Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tech question - for the shop Hi, I guess I'm too late to this thread, but I have a pretty long house with lots of obstructions and was having trouble getting a decent signal in the kid's room - putting a parabolic reflector on the antennas on the wifi box using the following design did the trick for me: http://limetrip.blogspot.com/2011/08/build-your-own-homemade-wi-fi-signal.ht ml http://www.freeantennas.com/projects/template2/index.html Best, rkg (Richard George) On 9/27/2012 4:49 AM, Matt wrote: > As usual, the group came through with excellent info. Logistics ultimately > made the call though, I started to order the lower cost, wifi booster only to > find they were sold out so I shifted to the wired solution. I will post a > short report when I get it hooked up. Thanks guys!Matt > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: nick brearley > To: Matt > Cc: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tech question - for the shop > > Matt wrote: >> My home wifi barely makes it to the shop - not a reliable signal. >> _______________________________________________ > > Matt, > I've used the Netgear wi-fi version of the newegg product for a year. See > http://tinyurl.com/br844uh > It's worked well in the house which is an old brick building and out in > the shop which is separate from the house. You could install one near > the pool but I can't say that using one has resulted in the appearance > of any POGVAs in my shop... > Nick > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rkg at teleport.com _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibjib at att.net From tputland at charter.net Sat Sep 29 11:56:40 2012 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2012 13:56:40 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] tie rods Message-ID: <54978817.4ba2b9.13a132c498f.Webtop.48@charter.net> Is there a trick to getting a new tie rod into the adjustment sleeve? I cannot, for the life of me, get the new tie rod end to start threading straight. It goes crooked on the first turn, everytime time. 96 S10 2WD if it matters..... thanks tim From ejrussell at mebtel.net Sat Sep 29 12:45:34 2012 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (ejrussell at mebtel.net) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2012 14:45:34 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] tie rods Message-ID: <20120929144534.i34t3snv0sy88g4g@webmail2.centurytel.net> Quoting Tim : > Is there a trick to getting a new tie rod into the adjustment sleeve? I > cannot, for the life of me, get the new tie rod end to start threading > straight. It goes crooked on the first turn, everytime time. You likely need to 'chase' the threads. Once cross-threaded it will tend to follow that thread each time you try to assemble it (and get worse each time, too). Best would be to get a re-threading tap/die - less chance of cutting new (incorrect) threads. This is assuming the new part has the correct threads. Will the old tie rod thread back on OK? Eric Russell Mebane, NC From tputland at charter.net Sat Sep 29 12:57:29 2012 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2012 14:57:29 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] tie rods Message-ID: <37011eb.4ba804.13a1363f63e.Webtop.48@charter.net> I just bought new sleeves and it still won't thread straight. Threads on the rod end are not crossed...WTF am I going wrong? On Sat, Sep 29, 2012 at 1:45 PM, ejrussell at mebtel.net wrote: > Quoting Tim : >> Is there a trick to getting a new tie rod into the adjustment sleeve? >> I >> cannot, for the life of me, get the new tie rod end to start >> threading >> straight. It goes crooked on the first turn, everytime time. > > You likely need to 'chase' the threads. Once cross-threaded it will > tend to follow that thread each time you try to assemble it (and get > worse each time, too). Best would be to get a re-threading tap/die - > less chance of cutting new (incorrect) threads. This is assuming the > new part has the correct threads. Will the old tie rod thread back on > OK? > > Eric Russell > Mebane, NC From scottmryan at netzero.net Sat Sep 29 13:33:02 2012 From: scottmryan at netzero.net (scottmryan at netzero.net) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2012 19:33:02 GMT Subject: [Shop-talk] tie rods Message-ID: <20120929.143302.16379.0@webmail04.dca.untd.com> Sometimes I have spread out the sleeve with a large flatblade screwdriver to allow me to get it at least a half inch in (that was with old rusty sleeves about 25 years ago) Scott R >I just bought new sleeves and it still won't thread straight. Threads on >the rod end are not crossed...WTF am I going wrong? ____________________________________________________________ Woman is 53 But Looks 25 Mom reveals 1 simple wrinkle trick that has angered doctors... http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/50674cf0eb9314cf04c47st01duc From tputland at charter.net Sat Sep 29 14:36:42 2012 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2012 16:36:42 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] tie rods Message-ID: <5395b95e.4b7378.13a13becea0.Webtop.43@charter.net> Well, I am an idiot and freely admit it with my hand held high. The new ones have the same length ball joint end threads. The old ones didn't. I thought I had the new outer since the threaded end of the new one looked longer than the other new one. Once I realized it was not the outer end, it went right together. Free idiot training here from the master. tim On Sat, Sep 29, 2012 at 1:57 PM, Tim wrote: > I just bought new sleeves and it still won't thread straight. Threads > on the rod end are not crossed...WTF am I going wrong? > > > On Sat, Sep 29, 2012 at 1:45 PM, ejrussell at mebtel.net wrote: > >> Quoting Tim : >>> Is there a trick to getting a new tie rod into the adjustment >>> sleeve? I >>> cannot, for the life of me, get the new tie rod end to start >>> threading >>> straight. It goes crooked on the first turn, everytime time. >> >> You likely need to 'chase' the threads. Once cross-threaded it will >> tend to follow that thread each time you try to assemble it (and get >> worse each time, too). Best would be to get a re-threading tap/die - >> less chance of cutting new (incorrect) threads. This is assuming the >> new part has the correct threads. Will the old tie rod thread back on >> OK? >> >> Eric Russell >> Mebane, NC > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tputland at charter.net From fishplate at gmail.com Sat Sep 29 15:54:55 2012 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2012 17:54:55 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] tie rods In-Reply-To: <5395b95e.4b7378.13a13becea0.Webtop.43@charter.net> References: <5395b95e.4b7378.13a13becea0.Webtop.43@charter.net> Message-ID: On Sat, Sep 29, 2012 at 4:36 PM, Tim wrote: > The new ones have the same length ball joint end threads. The old ones > didn't. I thought I had the new outer since the threaded end of the new one > looked longer than the other new one. Once I realized it was not the outer > end, it went right together. > Be aware that some cars have left-hand threads on one side of the tie rod. I suppose you have a steering rack car, so that wasn't the problem in your case, but still... Jeff Wossisname Corrosion Acres, Ga. From jibjib at att.net Sat Sep 29 16:27:30 2012 From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2012 15:27:30 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] tie rods In-Reply-To: <5395b95e.4b7378.13a13becea0.Webtop.43@charter.net> References: <5395b95e.4b7378.13a13becea0.Webtop.43@charter.net> Message-ID: Trust me; You are not alone! Jack -----Original Message----- From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tim Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2012 1:37 PM To: Shop Talk Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] tie rods Well, I am an idiot and freely admit it with my hand held high. The new ones have the same length ball joint end threads. The old ones didn't. I thought I had the new outer since the threaded end of the new one looked longer than the other new one. Once I realized it was not the outer end, it went right together. Free idiot training here from the master. tim On Sat, Sep 29, 2012 at 1:57 PM, Tim wrote: > I just bought new sleeves and it still won't thread straight. Threads > on the rod end are not crossed...WTF am I going wrong? > > > On Sat, Sep 29, 2012 at 1:45 PM, ejrussell at mebtel.net wrote: > >> Quoting Tim : >>> Is there a trick to getting a new tie rod into the adjustment >>> sleeve? I >>> cannot, for the life of me, get the new tie rod end to start >>> threading >>> straight. It goes crooked on the first turn, everytime time. >> >> You likely need to 'chase' the threads. Once cross-threaded it will >> tend to follow that thread each time you try to assemble it (and get >> worse each time, too). Best would be to get a re-threading tap/die - >> less chance of cutting new (incorrect) threads. This is assuming the >> new part has the correct threads. Will the old tie rod thread back on >> OK? >> >> Eric Russell >> Mebane, NC > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tputland at charter.net _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibjib at att.net From eric at megageek.com Sat Sep 29 17:13:06 2012 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2012 19:13:06 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] tie rods In-Reply-To: <37011eb.4ba804.13a1363f63e.Webtop.48@charter.net> Message-ID: I'd hate to state the obvious, but are you sure you got the right side? (it's possible the threads are left handed on one side and right handed on the other.) Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson Tim Sent by: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net 09/29/2012 14:52 To ejrussell at mebtel.net cc Shop Talk Subject Re: [Shop-talk] tie rods I just bought new sleeves and it still won't thread straight. Threads on the rod end are not crossed...WTF am I going wrong? On Sat, Sep 29, 2012 at 1:45 PM, ejrussell at mebtel.net wrote: > Quoting Tim : >> Is there a trick to getting a new tie rod into the adjustment sleeve? >> I >> cannot, for the life of me, get the new tie rod end to start >> threading >> straight. It goes crooked on the first turn, everytime time. > > You likely need to 'chase' the threads. Once cross-threaded it will > tend to follow that thread each time you try to assemble it (and get > worse each time, too). Best would be to get a re-threading tap/die - > less chance of cutting new (incorrect) threads. This is assuming the > new part has the correct threads. Will the old tie rod thread back on > OK? > > Eric Russell > Mebane, NC _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eric at megageek.com From tputland at charter.net Sat Sep 29 19:13:28 2012 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2012 21:13:28 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] tie rods Message-ID: <407d5bed.4b0a50.13a14bc31c9.Webtop.45@charter.net> We idiots stand united!