From pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com  Thu May  3 07:01:59 2012
From: pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com (PJ McGarvey)
Date: Thu, 3 May 2012 09:01:59 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Air hose reel opinions
Message-ID: <SNT127-W45864556D0CF7FA012C5AD9A2F0@phx.gbl>

I've had enough with tripping over my air hose in my tight garage, so I'm
looking into an air hose reel.  Learned my lesson once by trying the Harbor
Freight cheap-o model and it leaked right away, so I returned it.  Craftsman
has some nice looking ones in the $100-150 range and there's a sale ending in
3-days I might jump on.  When I search Amazon, there is a ridiculous array of
them at many price points....

I'm looking for one that can handle 50 ft. of 1/2" hose.  Self-retracting is
not a requirement.  If they sell it with out the hose that would be great.
Something that can handle typical DIY use.

I know alot of people on this list use air in their shops, so I figured it's a
great place to ask.

Thanks

From tputland at charter.net  Thu May  3 07:39:02 2012
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Thu, 3 May 2012 09:39:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Air hose reel opinions
Message-ID: <33343a93.1348ff.13712ecdfc2.Webtop.49@charter.net>

Please make sure all replies go to the list as this is info I am curious 
about as well.

Thanks for head's up on the HorribleFreight item!

tim


On Thu, May 3, 2012 at 8:01 AM, PJ McGarvey wrote:

> I've had enough with tripping over my air hose in my tight garage, so 
> I'm
> looking into an air hose reel.  Learned my lesson once by trying the 
> Harbor
> Freight cheap-o model and it leaked right away, so I returned it. 
> Craftsman
> has some nice looking ones in the $100-150 range and there's a sale 
> ending in
> 3-days I might jump on.  When I search Amazon, there is a ridiculous 
> array of
> them at many price points....
>
> I'm looking for one that can handle 50 ft. of 1/2" hose. 
> Self-retracting is
> not a requirement.  If they sell it with out the hose that would be 
> great.
> Something that can handle typical DIY use.
>
> I know alot of people on this list use air in their shops, so I 
> figured it's a
> great place to ask.
>
> Thanks
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tputland at charter.net

From eric at megageek.com  Thu May  3 07:49:43 2012
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Thu, 3 May 2012 09:49:43 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Air hose reel opinions
In-Reply-To: <SNT127-W45864556D0CF7FA012C5AD9A2F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <OF4A9600D9.85165B42-ON852579F3.004C471E-852579F3.004CB559@mail.megageek.com>

Last summer I plumbed my whole shop for air.  I ended up with a total mis 
match of air hoses and I got to learn alot about them.

First, the cheap HF are not worth even trying.  Many leak right out of the 
box.  BUT, their slightly more pricey ones worked OK for me so far.
High end ones are nice, but WAY pricey.

What I did find was if I hit every Orange and Blue big box store (HD and 
Lowes) in my area (there are over 12 in a 20 mile radius), I could find 
ones on clearance.  I picked up about 3 this way.  I got GREAT deals on 
nice units.

Right now I have about 8 air hose reels in my shop.  No two are alike.  I 
also have 2 HR cheapie on my "to be addressed later" pile not doing 
anything.  8>)

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 




PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com> 
Sent by: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
05/03/2012 09:32

To
Shop Talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
cc

Subject
[Shop-talk] Air hose reel opinions






I've had enough with tripping over my air hose in my tight garage, so I'm
looking into an air hose reel.  Learned my lesson once by trying the 
Harbor
Freight cheap-o model and it leaked right away, so I returned it. 
Craftsman
has some nice looking ones in the $100-150 range and there's a sale ending 
in
3-days I might jump on.  When I search Amazon, there is a ridiculous array 
of
them at many price points....

I'm looking for one that can handle 50 ft. of 1/2" hose.  Self-retracting 
is
not a requirement.  If they sell it with out the hose that would be great.
Something that can handle typical DIY use.

I know alot of people on this list use air in their shops, so I figured 
it's a
great place to ask.

Thanks
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eric at megageek.com

From doug at dougbraun.com  Thu May  3 08:15:14 2012
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Thu, 3 May 2012 10:15:14 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Air hose reel opinions
In-Reply-To: <SNT127-W45864556D0CF7FA012C5AD9A2F0@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT127-W45864556D0CF7FA012C5AD9A2F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CAOtbU9Vrfm012tS_m-bQukF56Px+w1SOphitR3E6u5OyCNKZiA@mail.gmail.com>

I got one of the generic Chinese retracting 50-foot ones at a swap meet
several years ago, and and it has been a joy.
It leaks a little bit in really cold weather, but that is not a problem in
practice.  I can't imagine having piles of hoses
all over the place.  I think I paid $65, but that was 5 years ago.

I bet the Craftsman ones come from the same factory in China...


As the price of raw materials climbs, the Chinese stuff had gotten more
cheaply made.  I bought
a HF welder cart about 3 years ago, and I was happy with it.  It was pretty
sturdy.  Then I
bought a second one recently.  It was the exact same design and model
number, but
all the sheet metal pieces were about 15% thinner, and the entire thing was
about 15% lighter.
It was definitely flimsier, and I was sort of bummed.

Doug



On Thu, May 3, 2012 at 9:01 AM, PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com> wrote:

> I've had enough with tripping over my air hose in my tight garage, so I'm
> looking into an air hose reel.  Learned my lesson once by trying the Harbor
> Freight cheap-o model and it leaked right away, so I returned it.
>  Craftsman
> has some nice looking ones in the $100-150 range and there's a sale ending
> in
> 3-days I might jump on.  When I search Amazon, there is a ridiculous array
> of
> them at many price points....
>
> I'm looking for one that can handle 50 ft. of 1/2" hose.  Self-retracting
> is
> not a requirement.  If they sell it with out the hose that would be great.
> Something that can handle typical DIY use.
>
> I know alot of people on this list use air in their shops, so I figured
> it's a
> great place to ask.
>
> Thanks
> ____

From pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com  Thu May  3 08:23:45 2012
From: pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com (PJ McGarvey)
Date: Thu, 3 May 2012 10:23:45 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Air hose reel opinions
In-Reply-To: <CAOtbU9Vrfm012tS_m-bQukF56Px+w1SOphitR3E6u5OyCNKZiA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <SNT127-W45864556D0CF7FA012C5AD9A2F0@phx.gbl>,
	<CAOtbU9Vrfm012tS_m-bQukF56Px+w1SOphitR3E6u5OyCNKZiA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SNT127-W584C68AB058FF4EF04EF3E9A2F0@phx.gbl>

Honestly the $40 HF one would've been fine for me except for the 90 degree
brass swivel fitting leaked.  probably a bad o-ring, or poor tolerances -
didn't open it up to even look...  There didn't appear to be *any* swivel
fittings online I could find (which may be a bad sign for things to come).  I
can see this being a wear item on any of these reels.  One leaky fitting and
the whole thing is junk.

Date: Thu, 3 May 2012 10:15:14 -0400
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air hose reel opinions
From: doug at dougbraun.com
To: pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com
CC: shop-talk at autox.team.net

I got one of the generic Chinese retracting 50-foot ones at a swap meet
several years ago, and and it has been a joy.
It leaks a little bit in really cold weather, but that is not a problem in
practice.  I can't imagine having piles of hoses

all over the place.  I think I paid $65, but that was 5 years ago.

I bet the Craftsman ones come from the same factory in China...


As the price of raw materials climbs, the Chinese stuff had gotten more
cheaply made.  I bought

a HF welder cart about 3 years ago, and I was happy with it.  It was pretty
sturdy.  Then I
bought a second one recently.  It was the exact same design and model number,
but
all the sheet metal pieces were about 15% thinner, and the entire thing was
about 15% lighter.

It was definitely flimsier, and I was sort of bummed.

Doug



On Thu, May 3, 2012 at 9:01 AM, PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com> wrote:

I've had enough with tripping over my air hose in my tight garage, so I'm

looking into an air hose reel.  Learned my lesson once by trying the Harbor

Freight cheap-o model and it leaked right away, so I returned it.  Craftsman

has some nice looking ones in the $100-150 range and there's a sale ending in

3-days I might jump on.  When I search Amazon, there is a ridiculous array of

them at many price points....



I'm looking for one that can handle 50 ft. of 1/2" hose.  Self-retracting is

not a requirement.  If they sell it with out the hose that would be great.

Something that can handle typical DIY use.



I know alot of people on this list use air in their shops, so I figured it's
a

great place to ask.



Thanks

____

From hillman at planet-torque.com  Thu May  3 09:17:36 2012
From: hillman at planet-torque.com (David Hillman)
Date: Thu, 3 May 2012 11:17:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Air hose reel opinions
In-Reply-To: <SNT127-W45864556D0CF7FA012C5AD9A2F0@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT127-W45864556D0CF7FA012C5AD9A2F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <alpine.BSF.2.00.1205031105450.16269@itonami.pair.com>

On Thu, 3 May 2012, PJ McGarvey wrote:
> I've had enough with tripping over my air hose in my tight garage, so I'm
> looking into an air hose reel.

    In my opinion, a reel doesn't fix the right problem here.  I was in 
your boat for years, until I finally put a loop of copper lines in my 2.5 
car garage last year.

    I could kill myself for not doing it years ago.

    Now, I never even deal with more than a few feet of air hose.  I still 
have a 75 foot hose, but it sits coiled on a hook and rarely moves.  Once 
in a blue moon, I take half of it out to the driveway, and then back. 
Other than that, hose never touches ground.  I have a dedicated drop for 
my plasma cutter, a 5-way manifold over my fab table, and a couple more 
wall/ceiling drops for general use.

    It cost a few hundred dollars, was done in a weekend and paid for 
itself in increased productivity/enjoyment within a month.

--
  David Hillman

From marka at maracing.com  Thu May  3 10:33:32 2012
From: marka at maracing.com (Mark Andy)
Date: Thu, 3 May 2012 12:33:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Air hose reel opinions
In-Reply-To: <33343a93.1348ff.13712ecdfc2.Webtop.49@charter.net>
References: <33343a93.1348ff.13712ecdfc2.Webtop.49@charter.net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.1205031231330.10666@thunder.banklogic.net>

Howdy,

On Thu, 3 May 2012, Tim wrote:
> Please make sure all replies go to the list as this is info I am curious 
> about as well.
>
> Thanks for head's up on the HorribleFreight item!

I wasn't going to suggest it since the OP had a bad experience, but I have 
this reel:

http://www.harborfreight.com/100-ft-steel-air-hose-reel-46342.html

And I like it a lot.  No leaks, cheap as heck, does everything I want.

I also have this one in the trailer:

http://www.harborfreight.com/50-ft-retractable-air-water-hose-reel-with-3-8-eighth-inch-hose-93897.html

Its fine.  In use I think I like the manual one better, but that's not the 
fault of the hose reel.

YMMV, particularly with Harbor Freight!  :-)

Mark

From pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com  Thu May  3 11:22:21 2012
From: pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com (PJ McGarvey)
Date: Thu, 3 May 2012 13:22:21 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Air hose reel opinions
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.64.1205031231330.10666@thunder.banklogic.net>
References: <33343a93.1348ff.13712ecdfc2.Webtop.49@charter.net>,
	<Pine.LNX.4.64.1205031231330.10666@thunder.banklogic.net>
Message-ID: <SNT127-W33A215F0FBFD20087CF8709A2F0@phx.gbl>

That first one is the one I bought.  With my luck, if I went back I'd probably
grab the same one I returned a few weeks ago, just in a new box LOL.
As far as plumbing the "shop" for air, I think I'll save that job for the next
shop I have, the one with 4 bays, a lift, proper heat/AC and a floor that's
flat and in one piece  ;-)
-PJ

> Date: Thu, 3 May 2012 12:33:32 -0400
> From: marka at maracing.com
> To: shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air hose reel opinions
>
> Howdy,
>
> On Thu, 3 May 2012, Tim wrote:
> > Please make sure all replies go to the list as this is info I am curious
> > about as well.
> >
> > Thanks for head's up on the HorribleFreight item!
>
> I wasn't going to suggest it since the OP had a bad experience, but I have
> this reel:
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/100-ft-steel-air-hose-reel-46342.html
>
> And I like it a lot.  No leaks, cheap as heck, does everything I want.
>
> I also have this one in the trailer:
>
>
http://www.harborfreight.com/50-ft-retractable-air-water-hose-reel-with-3-8-e
ighth-inch-hose-93897.html
>
> Its fine.  In use I think I like the manual one better, but that's not the
> fault of the hose reel.
>
> YMMV, particularly with Harbor Freight!  :-)
>
> Mark
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com

From mbarre at juno.com  Thu May  3 11:37:14 2012
From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt)
Date: Thu, 3 May 2012 17:37:14 GMT
Subject: [Shop-talk] Air hose reel opinions
Message-ID: <20120503.133714.19106.1@webmail08.vgs.untd.com>

I have the same manual one as Mark and it works fine.If not the same as the
retractable it is a clone - may have come from Homier vice HF but it is cheap
chinese.They both work fine for what I need. My only concession is I have a
few ball valves in the shop that allow me to control/isolate legs.  I
generally turn the compressor and main ball valve offtill I need to do work
because there are small leaks and I don't want the compressor to cycle several
times a day forever. MB


---------- Original Message ----------
From: Mark Andy <marka at maracing.com>

I wasn't going to suggest it since the OP had a bad experience, but I have
this reel:

http://www.harborfreight.com/100-ft-steel-air-hose-reel-46342.html

I also have this one in the trailer:

http://www.harborfreight.com/50-ft-retractable-air-water-hose-reel-with-3-8-e
ighth-inch-hose-93897.html

Its fine.

From fishplate at gmail.com  Thu May  3 13:00:17 2012
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Thu, 3 May 2012 15:00:17 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Follow-up on recent topics
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CPUS1uQYWxjdj9gSTVeS=rekykbvvKFLZkq0PP1GH820Q@mail.gmail.com>

Hi all,

A couple of things regarding recent topics...

First, sandblast cabinets and compressors - a data point.  I have this
cabinet http://www.harborfreight.com/abrasive-blast-cabinet-42202.html
and this compressor
http://www.lowes.com/pd_54284-1126-VT6362_4294795218__?productId=3370356
.  Using them together for the first time the other day, the
compressor had no problem keeping up with the cabinet.

Second, on the subject of shop air plumbing.  Before joining this
list, I used the nylon tubing kit from HF, but I put it low on the
wall, and my "drops" are risers.  When I was sandblasting the other
day, it was pretty humid.  Sure enough, I started getting water along
with the air and sand.  I drained some from the regulator, and a lot
from the tank.  Of course, there must be gallons of it in the pipe,
since I installed it with no way to drain it.

So, for those of you who are waiting until you build you dream shop to
do a proper air line installation, consider that there are substantial
downsides to doing it the easy way.  My next garage project is to
install proper piping...

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

From shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org  Thu May  3 13:24:04 2012
From: shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org (Ian McFetridge)
Date: Thu, 3 May 2012 15:24:04 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Air hose reel opinions
In-Reply-To: <SNT127-W45864556D0CF7FA012C5AD9A2F0@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT127-W45864556D0CF7FA012C5AD9A2F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CAFnfnRU4x4Kox4PzadCxH7wLUVALvodzPKDURC96QGY7Dz0vNw@mail.gmail.com>

I've gotten good service out of a rotating, retracting, 50 feet reel from
McMaster-Carr:  about 8 years of hobby shop use.  Sorry I can't recall the
model or cost.

- Ian

On Thu, May 3, 2012 at 9:01 AM, PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com> wrote:

> I've had enough with tripping over my air hose in my tight garage, so I'm
> looking into an air hose reel.  Learned my lesson once by trying the Harbor
> Freight cheap-o model and it leaked right away, so I returned it.
>  Craftsman
> has some nice looking ones in the $100-150 range and there's a sale ending
> in
> 3-days I might jump on.  When I search Amazon, there is a ridiculous array
> of
> them at many price points....
>
> I'm looking for one that can handle 50 ft. of 1/2" hose.  Self-retracting
> is
> not a requirement.  If they sell it with out the hose that would be great.
> Something that can handle typical DIY use.
>
> I know alot of people on this list use air in their shops, so I figured
> it's a
> great place to ask.
>
> Thanks
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Thu May  3 15:31:20 2012
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Thu, 3 May 2012 16:31:20 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Air hose reel opinions
In-Reply-To: <SNT127-W584C68AB058FF4EF04EF3E9A2F0@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT127-W45864556D0CF7FA012C5AD9A2F0@phx.gbl>
	<CAOtbU9Vrfm012tS_m-bQukF56Px+w1SOphitR3E6u5OyCNKZiA@mail.gmail.com>
	<SNT127-W584C68AB058FF4EF04EF3E9A2F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CA+k5suosCUVryY2gKOMTuCYiVAV+eEJq3=bvP2sg21KzOV0n3w@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, May 3, 2012 at 9:23 AM, PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com> wrote:
> Honestly the $40 HF one would've been fine for me except for the 90 degree
> brass swivel fitting leaked. B probably a bad o-ring, or poor tolerances -
> didn't open it up to even look... B There didn't appear to be *any* swivel
> fittings online I could find (which may be a bad sign for things to come).
B I
> can see this being a wear item on any of these reels. B One leaky fitting
and
> the whole thing is junk.
>

Milton still sell them.




--
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From gsteve at hammatt.com  Thu May  3 16:04:33 2012
From: gsteve at hammatt.com (Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA)
Date: Thu, 3 May 2012 15:04:33 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] buffing wheels
Message-ID: <B60506B8729A47DC8EBB6429024170C8@DesktopPC>

Recently purchased a used Baldor 333B 3/4hp dual buffing machine.
Fitted with 3/4" dia shafts, takes 8" dia wheels at 3600RPM and it
runs great.  Found it on Craigslist for $50 in California.  Kept it at
a friend's house for 6 months until I could go down last month and
pick it up as I was passing through.

Anyway, the old buffing/polishing wheels were toast.  Just cleaned up
the shafts and am getting ready to go spend $ on wheels.  I'll be
using it on misc. restoration and small fabrication for parts on 100 year
old cars.  Probably steel, brass and aluminum.  I understand that I'll
need multiple wheels.  Would somebody with polishing experience care to
offer suggestions as to supplier and types of wheels that I should be
considering?

BTW, an old customer was going to throw out an old chunk of iron,
but asked me if I'd like it instead.  After sandblasting, replacing a
few fasteners and a paint job, the old-style buffer/grinder stand with
cast iron table and cast iron water container for quenching is now
mated with the Baldor buffer.  The base alone must weigh just short
of 100 lbs.!

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA

From eltonclark at gmail.com  Thu May  3 17:47:49 2012
From: eltonclark at gmail.com (Elton E. (Tony) Clark)
Date: Thu, 3 May 2012 18:47:49 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] buffing wheels
In-Reply-To: <B60506B8729A47DC8EBB6429024170C8@DesktopPC>
References: <B60506B8729A47DC8EBB6429024170C8@DesktopPC>
Message-ID: <CA+7Nz3oYPQiBL1ZAJmtojE9UgrNWo9oQf_ZVVe=nS==WzYGWag@mail.gmail.com>

*Here's my favorite supplier:*

*http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/index.html*
*They have a good section on selecting both wheels and compounds and they
have everything.  I bought a whole stack of 18"*
*buffer wheels from a surplus store at $1.00*
*each!  I had to build a buffer with a 1 horsepower*
*motor and some belt drive speed adjustment*
*to achieve the "rim speed" of a Baldor 3400 rpm*
*but it is an amazing tool.  I ended up with 6 wheels for different
compounds;  the most aggressive will throw a shower of sparks from ferous
metal!  the finest can even be used to polish precious metal. . .a good
tool.*
*

*

On Thu, May 3, 2012 at 5:04 PM, Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA <
gsteve at hammatt.com> wrote:

> Recently purchased a used Baldor 333B 3/4hp dual buffing machine.
> Fitted with 3/4" dia shafts, takes 8" dia wheels at 3600RPM and it
> runs great.  Found it on Craigslist for $50 in California.  Kept it at
> a friend's house for 6 months until I could go down last month and
> pick it up as I was passing through.
>
> Anyway, the old buffing/polishing wheels were toast.  Just cleaned up
> the shafts and am getting ready to go spend $ on wheels.  I'll be
> using it on misc. restoration and small fabrication for parts on 100 year
> old cars.  Probably steel, brass and aluminum.  I understand that I'll
> need multiple wheels.  Would somebody with polishing experience care to
> offer suggestions as to supplier and types of wheels that I should be
> considering?
>
> BTW, an old customer was going to throw out an old chunk of iron,
> but asked me if I'd like it instead.  After sandblasting, replacing a
> few fasteners and a paint job, the old-style buffer/grinder stand with
> cast iron table and cast iron water container for quenching is now
> mated with the Baldor buffer.  The base alone must weigh just short
> of 100 lbs.!
>
> Steve Hammatt
> Mount Vernon WA USA
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eltonclark at gmail.com

From cavanadd at frontier.com  Thu May  3 20:43:19 2012
From: cavanadd at frontier.com (David C.)
Date: Thu, 03 May 2012 19:43:19 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Air hose reel opinions
In-Reply-To: <20120503.133714.19106.1@webmail08.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20120503.133714.19106.1@webmail08.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <4FA34247.2060006@frontier.com>

I have 3 of the generic HF retractable reels in my shop.  They've been 
there for several years with no problems other than one of them 
springing a leak on the hose that connects the reel to the main air 
line.  Mine don't get daily use, but they seem to be holding up fine for 
weekend and summer use.

Like Matt, I normally keep the ball valve on the tank discharge closed 
unless I'm actually using the air for something, as there are enough 
tiny leaks in various QD and other fittings that the compressor would 
cycle about once an hour otherwise.  (For the record, I have a 60 gallon 
two cylinder (NOT two stage) 5 HP vertical model from Home Depot and it 
has worked great for five or six years, even with my HF blast cabinet.)

Matt wrote:
> I have the same manual one as Mark and it works fine.If not the same as the
> retractable it is a clone - may have come from Homier vice HF but it is cheap
> chinese.They both work fine for what I need. My only concession is I have a
> few ball valves in the shop that allow me to control/isolate legs.  I
> generally turn the compressor and main ball valve offtill I need to do work
> because there are small leaks and I don't want the compressor to cycle several
> times a day forever. MB

From doug at dougbraun.com  Thu May  3 22:15:43 2012
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Fri, 4 May 2012 00:15:43 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Air hose reel opinions
In-Reply-To: <4FA34247.2060006@frontier.com>
References: <20120503.133714.19106.1@webmail08.vgs.untd.com>
	<4FA34247.2060006@frontier.com>
Message-ID: <CAOtbU9UTGsR6Co+ELsxPKQT0++umqOts7ekU7dX+oNmiZPZ+bQ@mail.gmail.com>

Here's a tip:  After a few years, the last few feet of my reel's air hose
stared getting beat up.  So I swapped the hose end-for-end on the reel.
The beat-up end moved to the inside of the reel, where nothing ever happens
to it, and the end that gets handled became fresh.  You have to do this
carefully, to avoid losing the correct spring tension when the hose is off
the reel.

Doug

On Thu, May 3, 2012 at 10:43 PM, David C. <cavanadd at frontier.com> wrote:

> I have 3 of the generic HF retractable reels in my shop.  They've been
> there for several years with no problems other than one of them springing a
> leak on the hose that connects the reel to the main air line.  Mine don't
> get daily use, but they seem to be holding up fine for weekend and summer
> use.
>
> Like Matt, I normally keep the ball valve on the tank discharge closed
> unless I'm actually using the air for something, as there are enough tiny
> leaks in various QD and other fittings that the compressor would cycle
> about once an hour otherwise.  (For the record, I have a 60 gallon two
> cylinder (NOT two stage) 5 HP vertical model from Home Depot and it has
> worked great for five or six years, even with my HF blast cabinet.)

From Gil.Fuqua at cci-ir.com  Fri May  4 14:05:47 2012
From: Gil.Fuqua at cci-ir.com (Gil Fuqua)
Date: Fri, 4 May 2012 20:05:47 +0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] buffing wheels
In-Reply-To: <B60506B8729A47DC8EBB6429024170C8@DesktopPC>
References: <B60506B8729A47DC8EBB6429024170C8@DesktopPC>
Message-ID: <7F60FBB4505509419A67E9116F2BBFFE03160855@BNAVEX01.cci-ir.com>

I have owned the same buffer for years and have polished a lot of brass and
copper on old cars. Buffing wheels come in a lot of variations but would
suggest you consider the wide ones (over 1" thick).  They are harder to find
but have more buffing area and last longer.

Take a look at :

http://jestcoproducts.com/index.php?act=viewCat&catId=5

I have been very pleased with the 120 ply hard sewn buff (1.5" thick) and the
2" thick loose buff they sell.  Jestco also sells buffing compounds in 3 pound
bars.  You will need various grits of buffing compound (suggest red for hard
sewn wheel and green or white for loose buff) and a rake to keep the buffing
wheels clean.  You periodically take the rake across the surface of the buff
to break up the glaze on the surface of the buff.

Note that buffing is really dirty work.  I have a separate room with
ventilation to keep the small particulate junk off everything in the shop that
is cast into the air when buffing.  Be sure and wear a mask to keep it out of
your lungs.

Hold on to parts tightly when buffing and don't let the spinning wheel catch
the upper edge of a part.  These buffers have tremendous power and can throw a
hard metal part flying across the room.  This is not the ideal way to treat
delicate parts.  Finally, buffing generates a lot of heat so be careful you
don't burn yourself or melt solder in a part being buffed (don't ask how I
know about the later).

Gil
Nashville

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve Hammatt Mount
Vernon WA USA
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2012 5:05 PM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] buffing wheels

Recently purchased a used Baldor 333B 3/4hp dual buffing machine.
Fitted with 3/4" dia shafts, takes 8" dia wheels at 3600RPM and it runs great.
Found it on Craigslist for $50 in California.  Kept it at a friend's house for
6 months until I could go down last month and pick it up as I was passing
through.

Anyway, the old buffing/polishing wheels were toast.  Just cleaned up the
shafts and am getting ready to go spend $ on wheels.  I'll be using it on
misc. restoration and small fabrication for parts on 100 year old cars.
Probably steel, brass and aluminum.  I understand that I'll need multiple
wheels.  Would somebody with polishing experience care to offer suggestions as
to supplier and types of wheels that I should be considering?

BTW, an old customer was going to throw out an old chunk of iron, but asked me
if I'd like it instead.  After sandblasting, replacing a few fasteners and a
paint job, the old-style buffer/grinder stand with cast iron table and cast
iron water container for quenching is now mated with the Baldor buffer.  The
base alone must weigh just short of 100 lbs.!

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
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From jniolon at att.net  Sun May  6 15:41:19 2012
From: jniolon at att.net (John Niolon)
Date: Sun, 6 May 2012 16:41:19 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] keyboard help
Message-ID: <A75F70A890F34C158FA3573F2BCE654F@john5043a2d406>

my work involves a lot of excel work and similar data being copy and pasted
from one sheet to another...  my old keyboard had programmable keys and I use
a left handed mouse.  I programmed two unused keys on the right side with
<ctrl> c and <ctrl> v.  I'd highlight the date with the mouse in my left
hand... hit the reprogrammed copy key...switch sheets and hit the paste key...
slick, fast and easy..

new keyboard is a microsoft wireless and while it does have a 'program'
function..., it will only move keys around and not let you actually input keys
to program to that key.  None of the programs I've found on line allow  the
user to type in control functions and map it to a key...

anyone have any suggestions ???   years ago I had a Gateway computer with a
keyboard utility that actually recorded keystrokes to a key similar to a macro
I guess...

I'm not a macro writer and don't want to be... I just want to put <ctrl> c and
<ctrl> v on some keys and get on with my life...  it's cumbersome for a left
handed person to enter those combos with their right hand...

help ???

tia
john





I'm sarcastic... what's your superpower ?

From jniolon at att.net  Sun May  6 16:51:01 2012
From: jniolon at att.net (John Niolon)
Date: Sun, 6 May 2012 17:51:01 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] keyboard help
References: <A75F70A890F34C158FA3573F2BCE654F@john5043a2d406>
	<CAAy7z=0kS-qM1ptOdUrOuYmq-_pqVcSGfD=RJ=yGSY+apk=WZA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D6AEEC4BCE29449792934E85B9C64216@john5043a2d406>

thanks Shannah,,,

strangest thing... I played with the Microsoft keyboard mapper under control 
panel for over an hour this a.m. and couldn't make the changes stick... it 
would show as reprogrammed, but when I went to excel... no new 
reprogramming.... this time it worked, must be the super moon.

so now the "lower volume" key is <ctrl> c and 'raise volume' is <ctrl> v
so now the "lower volume" key is <ctrl> c and 'raise volume' is <ctrl> v
so now the "lower volume" key is <ctrl> c and 'raise volume' is <ctrl> v
so now the "lower volume" key is <ctrl> c and 'raise volume' is <ctrl> v

see ???   thanks for your magical control of my keyboard... it's gonna make 
my life ssooo much easier now

john
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Shannah Miller" <shannahquilts at gmail.com>
To: "John Niolon" <jniolon at att.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2012 5:36 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] keyboard help


A keyboard with a Synaptics touchpad in it will allow you to use 
programmable
touch zones for that sort of thing.

Alternately, this article from Microsoft support seems to apply:

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/237179

although I wouldn't be surprised if this only works with Microsoft
branded keyboards.

Shannah



On Sun, May 6, 2012 at 2:41 PM, John Niolon <jniolon at att.net> wrote:
> my work involves a lot of excel work and similar data being copy and 
> pasted
> from one sheet to another... my old keyboard had programmable keys and I 
> use
> a left handed mouse. I programmed two unused keys on the right side with
> <ctrl> c and <ctrl> v. I'd highlight the date with the mouse in my left
> hand... hit the reprogrammed copy key...switch sheets and hit the paste 
> key...
> slick, fast and easy..
>
> new keyboard is a microsoft wireless and while it does have a 'program'
> function..., it will only move keys around and not let you actually input 
> keys
> to program to that key. None of the programs I've found on line allow the
> user to type in control functions and map it to a key...
>
> anyone have any suggestions ??? years ago I had a Gateway computer with a
> keyboard utility that actually recorded keystrokes to a key similar to a 
> macro
> I guess...
>
> I'm not a macro writer and don't want to be... I just want to put <ctrl> c 
> and
> <ctrl> v on some keys and get on with my life... it's cumbersome for a 
> left
> handed person to enter those combos with their right hand...
>
> help ???
>
> tia
> john
>
>
>
>
>
> I'm sarcastic... what's your superpower ?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shannahquilts at gmail.com

From racertod at racertodd.com  Sun May  6 17:01:04 2012
From: racertod at racertodd.com (Todd Walke)
Date: Sun, 06 May 2012 16:01:04 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] keyboard help
In-Reply-To: <A75F70A890F34C158FA3573F2BCE654F@john5043a2d406>
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20120506154500.00bce858@mail.avvanta.com>

         I use a Gateway AnyKey keyboard.  It has the macro feature 
built-in to the keyboard.  The macro feature allows you to program any key 
with any combination of characters you wish.  It uses the PS2 interface 
plug, not USB.  It has worked on every computer I've built and OS's up to 
WinXP.
         I love it so much I've kept it since it came on a Gateway computer 
I bought back in '91 or so.  I also like it because it has a pretty good 
feel to the keys.  Many new el-cheapo keyboards have crappy feel and are 
difficult to type on.  If you want a beautiful keyboard for typing, an IBM 
Model M has the best key feel of any keyboard ever made.

         Anykey keyboards were manufactured by MaxiSwitch for Gateway.  My 
part number is 2189014.  Google keywords: AnyKey, Maxiswitch or Gateway 
2189014, there are some out there for sale.

         As a warning, there are similar looking Gateway keyboards, the 
distinguishing feature of an AnyKey keyboard is a row of 4 keys in the 
upper right labeled Program Macro, Suspend Macro, Repeat Rate and Remap.

         Here is one on eBay:

<http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=261015353866>


Todd
Seattle,WA
'86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 275,000 miles
'01 Golf TDI, silver.   (new work car)       340,000 miles
'87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car)   654,000 miles <- Gone to a new 
home :(
http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff

From doug at dougbraun.com  Sun May  6 17:13:14 2012
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Sun, 6 May 2012 19:13:14 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] keyboard help
In-Reply-To: <A75F70A890F34C158FA3573F2BCE654F@john5043a2d406>
References: <A75F70A890F34C158FA3573F2BCE654F@john5043a2d406>
Message-ID: <CAOtbU9W=MvT2veZnxSJQt26vw_3gLF0GfBXNVLZ5+8vrBfvb+g@mail.gmail.com>

You can add registry entries to remap any key to a different keycode.
I have added one to my PC to disable the caps lock key, which I hit
accidentally
far more often than deliberately.

Hopefully there is some simple app that will accomplish that more easily
than researching the correct
keywords and codes you need to do it manually.  In any case, you certainly
don't need
a special keyboard.

Doug

On Sun, May 6, 2012 at 5:41 PM, John Niolon <jniolon at att.net> wrote:

> my work involves a lot of excel work and similar data being copy and pasted
> from one sheet to another...  my old keyboard had programmable keys and I
> use
> a left handed mouse.  I programmed two unused keys on the right side with
> <ctrl> c and <ctrl> v.  I'd highlight the date with the mouse in my left
> hand... hit the reprogrammed copy key...switch sheets and hit the paste
> key...
> slick, fast and easy..
>
> new keyboard is a microsoft wireless and while it does have a 'program'
> function..., it will only move keys around and not let you actually input
> keys
> to program to that key.  None of the programs I've found on line allow  the
> user to type in control functions and map it to a key...
>
> anyone have any suggestions ???   years ago I had a Gateway computer with a
> keyboard utility that actually recorded keystrokes to a key similar to a
> macro
> I guess...
>
> I'm not a macro writer and don't want to be... I just want to put <ctrl> c
> and
> <ctrl> v on some keys and get on with my life...  it's cumbersome for a
> left
> handed person to enter those combos with their right hand...
>
> help ???
>
> tia
> john

From mbarre at juno.com  Sun May  6 17:58:03 2012
From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt)
Date: Sun, 6 May 2012 23:58:03 GMT
Subject: [Shop-talk] More computer questionss
Message-ID: <20120506.195803.17915.1@webmail05.vgs.untd.com>

While we are considering computer stuff for John, I will toss one out as well.
I have a nice outdoor clock that the sun has destroyed the paper clock face.I
found some scale-able clock face graphics on the net, but I am pondering how
to get one printed with an 18.5" diameter. The easy solution will be to go to
a local printing, graphics or sign shop and have them use one of their
plotters. I am not going to remove the hands from the clock, so I will at a
minimum need to cut the face along a radius.I was wondering if I could get
away with printing segments on 8.5" cardstock with a laser printer and then
"assemble" the face. Any ideas? Thanks,Matt

From bk13 at earthlink.net  Sun May  6 18:11:38 2012
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Sun, 06 May 2012 17:11:38 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] keyboard help
In-Reply-To: <A75F70A890F34C158FA3573F2BCE654F@john5043a2d406>
References: <A75F70A890F34C158FA3573F2BCE654F@john5043a2d406>
Message-ID: <4FA7133A.7090109@earthlink.net>

John - You could do it all with the mouse and skip the keyboard.  Right 
click the cell to select it and bring up the mouse menu.  Mouse over 
copy and left click.  Go to the new cell, right click and select paste 
from the mouse menu.  Since this is for Excel, you can also hit the 
enter key to paste.  This works in Excel 2010.  Other programs may 
require you to highlight the text or data first with the left mouse 
button before you can copy, but with a full cell in Excel, you can skip 
that step.  I think you will find that faster than crtl-c/v.

You can also move the mouse to your right hand.  I'm right handed, but 
on two of my work computers, I use a left mouse because I use a lot of 
keypad entry.   With a right mouse, I'd have to constantly move my right 
hand between the keypad and the mouse.  With the left mouse, I can move 
the mouse and enter numbers without extra hand movement.    Try it for a 
few days to get used to it.  After a while, you don't notice a difference.

Brian

On 5/6/2012 2:41 PM, John Niolon wrote:
> my work involves a lot of excel work and similar data being copy and pasted
> from one sheet to another...  my old keyboard had programmable keys and I use
> a left handed mouse.  I programmed two unused keys on the right side with
> <ctrl>  c and<ctrl>  v.  I'd highlight the date with the mouse in my left
> hand... hit the reprogrammed copy key...switch sheets and hit the paste key...
> slick, fast and easy..
>
> new keyboard is a microsoft wireless and while it does have a 'program'
> function..., it will only move keys around and not let you actually input keys
> to program to that key.  None of the programs I've found on line allow  the
> user to type in control functions and map it to a key...
>
> anyone have any suggestions ???   years ago I had a Gateway computer with a
> keyboard utility that actually recorded keystrokes to a key similar to a macro
> I guess...
>
> I'm not a macro writer and don't want to be... I just want to put<ctrl>  c and
> <ctrl>  v on some keys and get on with my life...  it's cumbersome for a left
> handed person to enter those combos with their right hand...
>
> help ???
>
> tia
> john
>
>
>
>
>
> I'm sarcastic... what's your superpower ?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun May  6 19:13:07 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 6 May 2012 18:13:07 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] keyboard help
In-Reply-To: <CAOtbU9W=MvT2veZnxSJQt26vw_3gLF0GfBXNVLZ5+8vrBfvb+g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <A75F70A890F34C158FA3573F2BCE654F@john5043a2d406>
	<CAOtbU9W=MvT2veZnxSJQt26vw_3gLF0GfBXNVLZ5+8vrBfvb+g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <025f01cd2bee$8fc64940$0601a8c0@randall>

> Hopefully there is some simple app that will accomplish that 
> more easily
> than researching the correct
> keywords and codes

Here's one that looks interesting:
http://goo.gl/U4Vx1

Some more:
http://goo.gl/YmyXl

And even more, including some that allow macros to be easily attached to
certain keys:
http://goo.gl/iZJDb

-- Randall  

From fishplate at gmail.com  Sun May  6 19:20:40 2012
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sun, 6 May 2012 21:20:40 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] keyboard help
In-Reply-To: <CAOtbU9W=MvT2veZnxSJQt26vw_3gLF0GfBXNVLZ5+8vrBfvb+g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <A75F70A890F34C158FA3573F2BCE654F@john5043a2d406>
	<CAOtbU9W=MvT2veZnxSJQt26vw_3gLF0GfBXNVLZ5+8vrBfvb+g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CNG4m56mJjP0ikpmpORAa6G4qfe9RarMvo6MjzODE60ZQ@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, May 6, 2012 at 7:13 PM, Doug Braun <doug at dougbraun.com> wrote:
> You can add registry entries to remap any key to a different keycode.
> I have added one to my PC to disable the caps lock key, which I hit
> accidentally
> far more often than deliberately.

I'd be interested in learning how to do that.  Neanderthal that I am,
I just pried the "Caps Lock" key off the keyboard and put it in a
drawer.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

From phoenix722 at comcast.net  Sun May  6 22:19:12 2012
From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair)
Date: Sun, 6 May 2012 21:19:12 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] keyboard help
References: <A75F70A890F34C158FA3573F2BCE654F@john5043a2d406>
	<4FA7133A.7090109@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <411385BA588E4319AAF62A32C9D162BB@Mike>

I also am right-handed, but use the mouse with my left hand for the same 
reason.  I taught myself to "ten-key" using the number pad, and after a 
short time, it is second nature.  There is even a second Enter key at the 
number pad.  I'm so used to doing it this way, that it is now difficult to 
use the mouse with the right hand.  I recommend it.

Mike

>
> You can also move the mouse to your right hand.  I'm right handed, but on 
> two of my work computers, I use a left mouse because I use a lot of keypad 
> entry.   With a right mouse, I'd have to constantly move my right hand 
> between the keypad and the mouse.  With the left mouse, I can move the 
> mouse and enter numbers without extra hand movement.    Try it for a few 
> days to get used to it.  After a while, you don't notice a difference.
>
> Brian 

From fishplate at gmail.com  Mon May  7 05:13:33 2012
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Mon, 7 May 2012 07:13:33 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] keyboard help
In-Reply-To: <4FA7133A.7090109@earthlink.net>
References: <A75F70A890F34C158FA3573F2BCE654F@john5043a2d406>
	<4FA7133A.7090109@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CMa9Lj6+E+cEcdv8H=G3NYiQKK86=X9Di3Fm6tBPV3PBQ@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, May 6, 2012 at 8:11 PM, Brian Kemp <bk13 at earthlink.net> wrote:
> You can also move the mouse to your right hand.  I'm right handed, but on
> two of my work computers, I use a left mouse because I use a lot of keypad
> entry.   With a right mouse, I'd have to constantly move my right hand
> between the keypad and the mouse.

With a USB mouse, you can have more than one connected.  Switch back
and forth, depending on the task.

When you're in the shop, you can have a clean mouse and a greasy mouse...

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

From bk13 at earthlink.net  Mon May  7 08:36:38 2012
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Mon, 07 May 2012 07:36:38 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] keyboard help
In-Reply-To: <CAO8Q7CMa9Lj6+E+cEcdv8H=G3NYiQKK86=X9Di3Fm6tBPV3PBQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <A75F70A890F34C158FA3573F2BCE654F@john5043a2d406>
	<4FA7133A.7090109@earthlink.net>
	<CAO8Q7CMa9Lj6+E+cEcdv8H=G3NYiQKK86=X9Di3Fm6tBPV3PBQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4FA7DDF6.50008@earthlink.net>

A second mouse is also a fun practical joke in the office if you have 
computers near each other.  Slowly move the second mouse and watch the 
confusion on the user.   If you can see the screen, randomly open 
desktop icons.  I imagine the current wireless mice make this even easier.

Brian


On 5/7/2012 4:13 AM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote:
> On Sun, May 6, 2012 at 8:11 PM, Brian Kemp<bk13 at earthlink.net>  wrote:
>> You can also move the mouse to your right hand.  I'm right handed, but on
>> two of my work computers, I use a left mouse because I use a lot of keypad
>> entry.   With a right mouse, I'd have to constantly move my right hand
>> between the keypad and the mouse.
> With a USB mouse, you can have more than one connected.  Switch back
> and forth, depending on the task.
>
> When you're in the shop, you can have a clean mouse and a greasy mouse...
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May  7 13:22:18 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 7 May 2012 12:22:18 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] keyboard help
In-Reply-To: <CAO8Q7CMa9Lj6+E+cEcdv8H=G3NYiQKK86=X9Di3Fm6tBPV3PBQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <A75F70A890F34C158FA3573F2BCE654F@john5043a2d406>
	<4FA7133A.7090109@earthlink.net>
	<CAO8Q7CMa9Lj6+E+cEcdv8H=G3NYiQKK86=X9Di3Fm6tBPV3PBQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000b01cd2c86$b87de2b0$2979a810$@rr.com>

> With a USB mouse, you can have more than one connected.  Switch back
> and forth, depending on the task.

Maybe it depends on version of Windoze, or version of mouse.  But when I
tried to connect both a USB mouse and my USB trackball, it didn't work.

FWIW, I'm right handed, but use the mouse left handed to reduce the load on
my right hand.  I was getting pain that I suspected was related to carpal
tunnel syndrome, and it slowly got better after switching the mouse to the
left.  I pound buttons for a living though, I doubt a more casual user would
have a problem.

-- Randall 

From jniolon at att.net  Mon May  7 16:17:06 2012
From: jniolon at att.net (John Niolon)
Date: Mon, 7 May 2012 17:17:06 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] keyboard help
References: <A75F70A890F34C158FA3573F2BCE654F@john5043a2d406><CAOtbU9W=MvT2veZnxSJQt26vw_3gLF0GfBXNVLZ5+8vrBfvb+g@mail.gmail.com>
	<025f01cd2bee$8fc64940$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <926C2F46CA1E4D008D40AA7CD20CF933@john5043a2d406>

thanks guys for all the suggestions... all of the commercial (read $$$) 
software I found would let you swap one key for another and several totally 
ignored the 'extra' keys.  I wanted to just remap two of the extras to 
copy/paste.   I finally got the microsoft keyboard software to work and it's 
been working properly all day...

didn't want to get into macro or script writing... wanted something quick 
and dirty and got it....

thanks for the help..  now if some of you would like to come on over and 
help with this mountain of paperwork... I can give you the address to 
mapquest...

thanks
John

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
Cc: "'shop-talk'" <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2012 8:13 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] keyboard help


>> Hopefully there is some simple app that will accomplish that
>> more easily
>> than researching the correct
>> keywords and codes
>
> Here's one that looks interesting:
> http://goo.gl/U4Vx1
>
> Some more:
> http://goo.gl/YmyXl
>
> And even more, including some that allow macros to be easily attached to
> certain keys:
> http://goo.gl/iZJDb
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jniolon at att.net

From cavanadd at frontier.com  Mon May  7 20:00:29 2012
From: cavanadd at frontier.com (David C.)
Date: Mon, 07 May 2012 19:00:29 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] keyboard help
In-Reply-To: <000b01cd2c86$b87de2b0$2979a810$@rr.com>
References: <A75F70A890F34C158FA3573F2BCE654F@john5043a2d406>
	<4FA7133A.7090109@earthlink.net>
	<CAO8Q7CMa9Lj6+E+cEcdv8H=G3NYiQKK86=X9Di3Fm6tBPV3PBQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<000b01cd2c86$b87de2b0$2979a810$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <4FA87E3D.8020103@frontier.com>

I dunno.  I'm right handed but I have been mousing left handed for over 
15 years.  If I go back to a right handed mouse for any length of time I 
get tendinitis in my right hand/wrist pretty soon.  It drives my 
coworkers and the IS people nuts.

Randall wrote:
> FWIW, I'm right handed, but use the mouse left handed to reduce the load on
> my right hand.  I was getting pain that I suspected was related to carpal
> tunnel syndrome, and it slowly got better after switching the mouse to the
> left.  I pound buttons for a living though, I doubt a more casual user would
> have a problem.

From shannahquilts at gmail.com  Thu May 10 09:14:19 2012
From: shannahquilts at gmail.com (Shannah Miller)
Date: Thu, 10 May 2012 08:14:19 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Wire Basket?
Message-ID: <CAAy7z=2_iTR8BnmZT7vYAYT5ZO6yBuCNwwrpohwZsgEarzdM0w@mail.gmail.com>

Hi,

I need to find a wire basket for holding lumber, as a gift
to a friend.  The idea would be that most of the time, it
would sit in his shop, but at times, he could use his
Kubota tractor to move it elsewhere.  So, obviously, that
would mean non-installed, flat on the bottom.

As I understand it, it's to hold scrap pieces of lumber,
not entire 2x4s.

The basket part of a traditional shopping cart (metal)
would be close to ideal, although less tapered would
be even better.

Is there a name for such a thing, and if so, any idea
where I can buy one?

Thanks,

Shannah

From jniolon at att.net  Thu May 10 11:17:28 2012
From: jniolon at att.net (John Niolon)
Date: Thu, 10 May 2012 12:17:28 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Wire Basket?
References: <CAAy7z=2_iTR8BnmZT7vYAYT5ZO6yBuCNwwrpohwZsgEarzdM0w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A0FE823455924728A7649EDA795F8EE5@john5043a2d406>

Shannah...

I haven't googled it yet... but do some searches on material handling or 
warehouse bins... I know they make what you are looking for both in metal 
and in a resin material and some are even collapsable for storage...   what 
size are we talking  2x3 ?? 4x6 ??   I'll do some surfing

johnm
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Shannah Miller" <shannahquilts at gmail.com>
To: "ShopTalk" <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2012 10:14 AM
Subject: [Shop-talk] Wire Basket?


> Hi,
>
> I need to find a wire basket for holding lumber, as a gift
> to a friend.  The idea would be that most of the time, it
> would sit in his shop, but at times, he could use his
> Kubota tractor to move it elsewhere.  So, obviously, that
> would mean non-installed, flat on the bottom.
>
> As I understand it, it's to hold scrap pieces of lumber,
> not entire 2x4s.
>
> The basket part of a traditional shopping cart (metal)
> would be close to ideal, although less tapered would
> be even better.
>
> Is there a name for such a thing, and if so, any idea
> where I can buy one?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Shannah
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jniolon at att.net

From eric at megageek.com  Thu May 10 11:22:39 2012
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Thu, 10 May 2012 13:22:39 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Wire Basket?
In-Reply-To: <CAAy7z=2_iTR8BnmZT7vYAYT5ZO6yBuCNwwrpohwZsgEarzdM0w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAAy7z=2_iTR8BnmZT7vYAYT5ZO6yBuCNwwrpohwZsgEarzdM0w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1e31b5b5-16b2-4db0-a927-0af9158c80e4@blur>

You want a bulk container. They aren't cheap. email me if you want more  
information on them add I have or at home.

Sent from my 4G Razor.

-----Original message-----
From: Shannah Miller <shannahquilts at gmail.com>
To: ShopTalk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, May 10, 2012 13:01:34 EDT
Subject: [Shop-talk] Wire Basket?

Hi,

I need to find a wire basket for holding lumber, as a gift
to a friend.  The idea would be that most of the time, it
would sit in his shop, but at times, he could use his
Kubota tractor to move it elsewhere.  So, obviously, that
would mean non-installed, flat on the bottom.

As I understand it, it's to hold scrap pieces of lumber,
not entire 2x4s.

The basket part of a traditional shopping cart (metal)
would be close to ideal, although less tapered would
be even better.

Is there a name for such a thing, and if so, any idea
where I can buy one?

Thanks,

Shannah
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eric at megageek.com

From darmstrong at nexicom.net  Thu May 10 11:39:49 2012
From: darmstrong at nexicom.net (darmstrong at nexicom.net)
Date: Thu, 10 May 2012 13:39:49 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Wire Basket?
Message-ID: <4fabfd65.5350.4613e940.62d0b17f@nexicom.net>

Are you looking for something like this - open mesh steel stacking 
containers?  You may be able to find used ones though used industrial 
equipment sales companies.

http://www.storage-systems.ca/stackingbins.html

Doug Armstrong

--- Original message ---
Subject: [Shop-talk] Wire Basket?
From: Shannah Miller <shannahquilts at gmail.com>
To: ShopTalk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, 10/05/2012  1:05 PM

Hi,

I need to find a wire basket for holding lumber, as a gift
to a friend.  The idea would be that most of the time, it
would sit in his shop, but at times, he could use his
Kubota tractor to move it elsewhere.  So, obviously, that
would mean non-installed, flat on the bottom.

As I understand it, it's to hold scrap pieces of lumber,
not entire 2x4s.

The basket part of a traditional shopping cart (metal)
would be close to ideal, although less tapered would
be even better.

Is there a name for such a thing, and if so, any idea
where I can buy one?

Thanks,

Shannah
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/darmstrong at nexicom.net

From bjzwissler at gmail.com  Thu May 10 12:41:39 2012
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Benjamin Zwissler)
Date: Thu, 10 May 2012 14:41:39 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Wire Basket?
In-Reply-To: <CAAy7z=2_iTR8BnmZT7vYAYT5ZO6yBuCNwwrpohwZsgEarzdM0w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAAy7z=2_iTR8BnmZT7vYAYT5ZO6yBuCNwwrpohwZsgEarzdM0w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAMHq6ZyOHjyfshQidziqtdbzZA1V5koqs2ybVcWvA16nAWfuwQ@mail.gmail.com>

I've seen many mfg companies have similar baskets for keeping scrap, parts,
etc. on the production floor.  Most I've seen are made to be moved by
forklift and look to be roughly 4'x4'x4'.  The wire is woven and pretty
heavy gauge - maybe 3/16" dia.  I'd guess the bins weigh >100lbs themselves.

Ben......

On Thu, May 10, 2012 at 11:14 AM, Shannah Miller <shannahquilts at gmail.com>wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I need to find a wire basket for holding lumber, as a gift
> to a friend.  The idea would be that most of the time, it
> would sit in his shop, but at times, he could use his
> Kubota tractor to move it elsewhere.  So, obviously, that
> would mean non-installed, flat on the bottom.
>
> As I understand it, it's to hold scrap pieces of lumber,
> not entire 2x4s.
>
> The basket part of a traditional shopping cart (metal)
> would be close to ideal, although less tapered would
> be even better.
>
> Is there a name for such a thing, and if so, any idea
> where I can buy one?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Shannah
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler at gmail.com

From mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org  Thu May 10 13:27:43 2012
From: mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org (Jimmie Mayfield)
Date: Thu, 10 May 2012 15:27:43 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Wire Baskets
Message-ID: <20120510192743.GA33632@sackheads.org>

If you have access to a welder, you could construct your own basket from 
the wire mesh decking used with commercial pallet racks.  That stuff will
support thousands of pounds and goes pretty cheap on the secondhand market.
If you live near a big city, chances are you can even find some listed on 
craigslist (check the 'business' and 'materials' categories).

JM

From shannahquilts at gmail.com  Fri May 11 09:03:09 2012
From: shannahquilts at gmail.com (Shannah Miller)
Date: Fri, 11 May 2012 08:03:09 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Wire Basket?
In-Reply-To: <CAAy7z=2_iTR8BnmZT7vYAYT5ZO6yBuCNwwrpohwZsgEarzdM0w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAAy7z=2_iTR8BnmZT7vYAYT5ZO6yBuCNwwrpohwZsgEarzdM0w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAAy7z=03y-a1DYVJ8arFX73DF_LG15hQg7jJvGGvC=biCwK+QQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hi,

Wow, thanks everyone!  I got a lot of good suggestions, and
learned that these can even be found in a collapsible format!
Several people sent URLs, which was very helpful.

It's nice to be in the position of deciding which one to send,
rather than wondering if I'll find one at all.

Shannah

From ronnie.day at gmail.com  Fri May 11 14:06:20 2012
From: ronnie.day at gmail.com (Ronnie Day)
Date: Fri, 11 May 2012 15:06:20 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shelby Dies at 89
Message-ID: <CAMHhs6fAvD=NT8dzdO98KQ_CwD9Z4-DuP5y0Ad3Gh7tO5+kLMQ@mail.gmail.com>

Carroll Shelby died today at Baylor Hospital in Dallas. I guess you really
can't say enough about his contributions to motorsports, so all I will say
is rest in peace, you'l never be forgotten.

Ron

From jmitch at snet.net  Fri May 11 16:48:05 2012
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Fri, 11 May 2012 18:48:05 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Deck Coating
Message-ID: <4FAD9725.9020608@snet.net>

    Last fall we put up a new deck with mahogany floor boards and 
everything else cedar.  I coated everything with Benjamin Moore Alkyd 
translucent Deck and Siding finish.  To make  a long story short, it 
didn't hold up.  I can see areas on the floor boards where the coating 
has just disappeared and these are on areas that get little or no 
traffic.  Can anyone make a suggestion for another finish I can put on 
top of this, that will hold up better.  I was told I'd get a least 2 
years out of this finish and that's what I'm shooting for.  Thanks for 
any help,   John Mitchell   Shelton, CT

From eric at megageek.com  Sat May 12 20:14:50 2012
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Sat, 12 May 2012 22:14:50 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Bio diesel question.
Message-ID: <OF0DAB0709.E85661CD-ON852579FD.000C1768-852579FD.000CCD6E@mail.megageek.com>

I know lots of people burn used cooking oil in diesel vehicles.

And since my oil heat is basically diesel fuel, my question is...

Can I burn used cooking oil in my home heating oil tank?  If so, what do I 
need to do with first?

For some background, I have two 360 gal tanks, and I'm only talking about 
maybe a gallon of used cooking oil per month or two.

Also, I have my unit serviced every year.

Thanks. (anything I can do to save some money is helpful!)


Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Sun May 13 10:17:44 2012
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (ejrussell at mebtel.net)
Date: Sun, 13 May 2012 12:17:44 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Bio diesel question.
Message-ID: <20120513121744.2a7uht3ymles4kkg@webmail2.centurytel.net>

BioDiesel is not simply burning used cooking oil - it is processed into 
a form usable in a conventional diesel engine. The process of 
converting used cooking oil into BioDiesel makes it cost more than 
conventional diesel. It is probably a Good Thing environmentally but 
not from a strictly economical viewpoint. I believe there are ways to 
convert a diesel engine to run on used cooking oil but that wasn't your 
question... 

I would assume that you could 'dispose' of a few gallons of used 
cooking oil by diluting it in a few hundred gallons of fuel oil. But it 
doesn't seem like that was your question either... 

What was your question...?

Oh - saving some money. I doubt that a few gallons of used cooking oil 
in your home heating system is going to save any money unless it is 
very expensive to otherwise dispose of it. 

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC


Quoting eric at megageek.com:
> I know lots of people burn used cooking oil in diesel vehicles. 
>
> And since my oil heat is basically diesel fuel, my question is... 
>
> Can I burn used cooking oil in my home heating oil tank?  If so, what do I
> need to do with first?

From eric at megageek.com  Sun May 13 10:39:49 2012
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Sun, 13 May 2012 12:39:49 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Bio diesel question.
In-Reply-To: <20120513121744.2a7uht3ymles4kkg@webmail2.centurytel.net>
Message-ID: <OFCD957FD9.32084E23-ON852579FD.005B3C18-852579FD.005BFE66@mail.megageek.com>

I guess my question is, will I hurt anything if I drain (filtered) used 
cooking oil into my heat oil tank?

This is mostly for a 'clean' way to dispose of the oil, and if I save a 
few pennies (and don't hurt the burner) that's a bonus.

So it is sounding like this is a possible way to go then, correct?

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 




ejrussell at mebtel.net 
05/13/2012 12:14
Please respond to
ejrussell at mebtel.net


To
<shop-talk at autox.team.net>, <eric at megageek.com>
cc

Subject
Re: [Shop-talk] Bio diesel question.






BioDiesel is not simply burning used cooking oil - it is processed into 
a form usable in a conventional diesel engine. The process of 
converting used cooking oil into BioDiesel makes it cost more than 
conventional diesel. It is probably a Good Thing environmentally but 
not from a strictly economical viewpoint. I believe there are ways to 
convert a diesel engine to run on used cooking oil but that wasn't your 
question... 

I would assume that you could 'dispose' of a few gallons of used 
cooking oil by diluting it in a few hundred gallons of fuel oil. But it 
doesn't seem like that was your question either... 

What was your question...?

Oh - saving some money. I doubt that a few gallons of used cooking oil 
in your home heating system is going to save any money unless it is 
very expensive to otherwise dispose of it. 

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC


Quoting eric at megageek.com:
> I know lots of people burn used cooking oil in diesel vehicles. 
>
> And since my oil heat is basically diesel fuel, my question is... 
>
> Can I burn used cooking oil in my home heating oil tank?  If so, what do 
I
> need to do with first?

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun May 13 11:43:49 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 13 May 2012 10:43:49 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Bio diesel question.
In-Reply-To: <20120513121744.2a7uht3ymles4kkg@webmail2.centurytel.net>
References: <20120513121744.2a7uht3ymles4kkg@webmail2.centurytel.net>
Message-ID: <0a0501cd312f$f5500b20$0601a8c0@randall>

> The process of 
> converting used cooking oil into BioDiesel makes it cost more than 
> conventional diesel. 

That depends a great deal on what you pay for the cooking oil.  From
everything I've read, the conversion process itself is relatively
inexpensive, but only produces about 2/3 as much oil as you put in.

There are also ways of running diesel engines on cooking oil directly.  For
example, both approaches are discussed at http://goo.gl/SbH6l

But heating oil is not quite the same as diesel, and I know some furnaces
don't even like to be run on diesel fuel.  Typically it smokes much more,
which can lead to clogged nozzles and chimney fires (not to mention the
smell).  Might work OK for you, but it seems like a significant risk to me.

A better approach might be to build a used oil heater, and use it to heat
the shop or similar area.
Here's an assortment of plans
http://goo.gl/nEJpz

If it will cleanly burn old crankcase oil, then cooking oil should be no
problem.

-- Randall  

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Sun May 13 11:49:42 2012
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (ejrussell at mebtel.net)
Date: Sun, 13 May 2012 13:49:42 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Bio diesel question.
Message-ID: <20120513134942.u4uewux6c6kowos4@webmail2.centurytel.net>

> I guess my question is, will I hurt anything if I drain (filtered) used
> cooking oil into my heat oil tank?
>
> This is mostly for a 'clean' way to dispose of the oil, and if I save a
> few pennies (and don't hurt the burner) that's a bonus. 

I *assume* it won't hurt - in the same way adding a couple of gallons 
of most anything that'll sort of burn into a few hundred gallons of 
fuel oil 'won't hurt'. But I'm not sure why you'd bother. Why not give 
it to someone who does make BioDiesel or drives a vehicle converted to 
burn cooking oil?

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

From mbarre at juno.com  Sun May 13 12:48:59 2012
From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt)
Date: Sun, 13 May 2012 18:48:59 GMT
Subject: [Shop-talk] Bio diesel question.
Message-ID: <20120513.144859.25033.0@webmail04.vgs.untd.com>

>From what I understand about "greasecars" that simply burn old fryer oil; you
get them up and running with the normal diesel fuel system and have a means of
warming the grease via engine heat, then you can switch over to the warmed
grease.  Then a few miles from your destination, you switch back to the diesel
to purge the grease from the system before shutting down. I would be concerned
about just dumping vegetable oil into my heating oil tank as I doubt it would
mix. But if you try it, let us know how it works out! I heard a story that a
fellow gear head once worked for Johnson and Johnson and occasionally ran his
diesel car on baby oil...
Matt



---------- Original Message ----------
From: eric at megageek.com
To: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Bio diesel question.
Date: Sun, 13 May 2012 12:39:49 -0400

I guess my question is, will I hurt anything if I drain (filtered) used
cooking oil into my heat oil tank?

This is mostly for a 'clean' way to dispose of the oil, and if I save a
few pennies (and don't hurt the burner) that's a bonus.

So it is sounding like this is a possible way to go then, correct?

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
Waldo Emerson




ejrussell at mebtel.net
05/13/2012 12:14
Please respond to
ejrussell at mebtel.net


To
<shop-talk at autox.team.net>, <eric at megageek.com>
cc

Subject
Re: [Shop-talk] Bio diesel question.






BioDiesel is not simply burning used cooking oil - it is processed into
a form usable in a conventional diesel engine. The process of
converting used cooking oil into BioDiesel makes it cost more than
conventional diesel. It is probably a Good Thing environmentally but
not from a strictly economical viewpoint. I believe there are ways to
convert a diesel engine to run on used cooking oil but that wasn't your
question...

I would assume that you could 'dispose' of a few gallons of used
cooking oil by diluting it in a few hundred gallons of fuel oil. But it
doesn't seem like that was your question either...

What was your question...?

Oh - saving some money. I doubt that a few gallons of used cooking oil
in your home heating system is going to save any money unless it is
very expensive to otherwise dispose of it.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC


Quoting eric at megageek.com:
> I know lots of people burn used cooking oil in diesel vehicles.
>
> And since my oil heat is basically diesel fuel, my question is...
>
> Can I burn used cooking oil in my home heating oil tank?  If so, what do
I
> need to do with first?
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From parkanzky at gmail.com  Sun May 13 14:45:26 2012
From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky)
Date: Sun, 13 May 2012 16:45:26 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Bio diesel question.
In-Reply-To: <20120513.144859.25033.0@webmail04.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20120513.144859.25033.0@webmail04.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <F4B55BF7-13A1-4452-A403-BCFA9607321B@gmail.com>

I used to work for a company that made baby oil and would occasionally run my
diesel car (a '00 TDI Jetta) on "scrap."  Baby oil is almost pure light
mineral oil with a trace of perfume and/or a bit of vitamin or aloe.  As a
matter of fact, I we took a ~1500 mile drive for a vacation on nothing but
baby oil that I'd saved up for the trip (Just to see if I could).  No ill
effects on the car.  I sold it to a friend and it's still going strong at
>300,000 miles.

-Paul

On May 13, 2012, at 6:48 PM, "Matt" <mbarre at juno.com> wrote:

> I heard a story that a
> fellow gear head once worked for Johnson and Johnson and occasionally ran
his
> diesel car on baby oil...
> Matt

From markmiller at threeboysfarm.com  Sun May 13 16:02:19 2012
From: markmiller at threeboysfarm.com (Mark Miller)
Date: Sun, 13 May 2012 15:02:19 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Burning cooking oil in your furnace?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.15.1336932002.18910.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.15.1336932002.18910.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <6FFE0CAA652C4BD48B120705D9A6B89E@delld520>

<<<
I know lots of people burn used cooking oil in diesel vehicles.

And since my oil heat is basically diesel fuel, my question is...

Can I burn used cooking oil in my home heating oil tank?  If so, what do I
need to do with first?
>>>

Look at greasecar.com for way more info but the short answer I would give
is: not worth the effort.

Folks who burn used oil in their cars typically have a second tank for the
oil, as the car has to be run on standard diesel to get up to temperature so
the veggie oil can be pre-heated.  It also needs to be dewatered and
filtered very well before it is used in the car.  You're not just pulling up
to a restaurant and filling the tank.   

From tputland at charter.net  Sun May 13 16:20:24 2012
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Sun, 13 May 2012 18:20:24 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT hep with ants PLEASE
Message-ID: <71b1738b.1b307e.1374849ca5b.Webtop.49@charter.net>

I have half a dozen or more ant 'hills' in my back yard; a yard that is 
only about 75x100 feet at best. They are about a half inch and black. I 
may have seen a white spot on the back end of one of the colony's 
inhabitants. Are these carpenter ants? I don't get them in my house.

How can I get rid of these damn things? I have taken "Seven" ant poison, 
mixed a few gallons, stuck a shovel into the middle of this one hill 
(more than twice over the years) and exposed the middle of the colony 
and dumped the contents of the bucket into the heart of the nest. This 
hill is still thriving years later after doing this a few times over the 
past few years.

I know you have to kill the queen to kill the nest but what the heck can 
I do?

thanks!
tim

From gerrybraz at cablespeed.com  Sun May 13 18:06:40 2012
From: gerrybraz at cablespeed.com (Gerald Brazil)
Date: Sun, 13 May 2012 20:06:40 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT hep with ants PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <71b1738b.1b307e.1374849ca5b.Webtop.49@charter.net>
References: <71b1738b.1b307e.1374849ca5b.Webtop.49@charter.net>
Message-ID: <008301cd3165$70d270f0$527752d0$@cablespeed.com>

What about a smoke bomb like you use for moles?

From bk13 at earthlink.net  Sun May 13 18:12:34 2012
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Sun, 13 May 2012 17:12:34 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT hep with ants PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <71b1738b.1b307e.1374849ca5b.Webtop.49@charter.net>
References: <71b1738b.1b307e.1374849ca5b.Webtop.49@charter.net>
Message-ID: <4FB04DF2.2070302@earthlink.net>

Tim - I have had best luck with ant baits.  Which ones depend on the 
specific ants, so you may have to try several.  The ants come out and 
get the poison on them then take it back to the nest.  It takes a few 
days to a week to work, but it eventually get there when you find the 
right one.  Set the bait right next to one of their paths.  I like the 
clear baits so you can see it gets ants and see when it is empty.  If a 
bait empties and you still have ants, add another bait.

The ants at my previous house liked the Zep or Enforcer baits that had a 
peanut butter like substance in the middle.  The ants I had at my 
current house liked the Hot Shot Liquid from Home Depot, Store SKU # 
959786.  The nice thing about the clear containers is that you can see 
they are working.

If you have them in the house around where small kids go, use Windex.  
It kills quick and keeps them away for a few days.

Brian



On 5/13/2012 3:20 PM, Tim wrote:
> I have half a dozen or more ant 'hills' in my back yard; a yard that is
> only about 75x100 feet at best. They are about a half inch and black. I
> may have seen a white spot on the back end of one of the colony's
> inhabitants. Are these carpenter ants? I don't get them in my house.
>
> How can I get rid of these damn things? I have taken "Seven" ant poison,
> mixed a few gallons, stuck a shovel into the middle of this one hill
> (more than twice over the years) and exposed the middle of the colony
> and dumped the contents of the bucket into the heart of the nest. This
> hill is still thriving years later after doing this a few times over the
> past few years.
>
> I know you have to kill the queen to kill the nest but what the heck can
> I do?
>
> thanks!
> tim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net

From eltonclark at gmail.com  Sun May 13 18:14:38 2012
From: eltonclark at gmail.com (Elton E. (Tony) Clark)
Date: Sun, 13 May 2012 19:14:38 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT hep with ants PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <71b1738b.1b307e.1374849ca5b.Webtop.49@charter.net>
References: <71b1738b.1b307e.1374849ca5b.Webtop.49@charter.net>
Message-ID: <CA+7Nz3pqJWEdGmRmsDVM1JsnUL1FyY2v_D+6aDy6HuTtT6w--g@mail.gmail.com>

A fella on another forum once posted:

*"Take your acceytlene welding torch and adjust the flame for a good medium
neutral flame and mark the valve positions.  *
*Extinguish the flame and turn on the gases to the proper marks and stick
the tip down the ant hole and let it flow several minutes . . . arrange the
hoses so you can light the torch and drag it back over the ant hole to
ignite the gas you've injected.  Stand 'way back.  Donno if it really kills
queen, larvae and everything but it sure is fun!"*
**
*Remember that it was SOME OTHER GUY who made the suggestion.*
**
*Tony*
**
**

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun May 13 18:51:57 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 13 May 2012 18:51:57 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT hep with ants PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <71b1738b.1b307e.1374849ca5b.Webtop.49@charter.net>
References: <71b1738b.1b307e.1374849ca5b.Webtop.49@charter.net>
Message-ID: <4FB0572D.6000104@bradakis.com>

I'll say that folks don't need to flag postings that are not about cars
as off topic.  We cover a LOT of ground on this list.  The combined
knowledge of the subscribers is pretty impressive.  I may even be
posting about my old Craftsman electric lawn mower soon, it kissed
the turf today.

Sorry I can't help with the ants, though.  I can help with Team.Net,
updated

http://www.team.net/status.html


mjb.

From bk13 at earthlink.net  Sun May 13 20:02:33 2012
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Sun, 13 May 2012 19:02:33 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT hep with ants  - blowing up yard
In-Reply-To: <CA+7Nz3pqJWEdGmRmsDVM1JsnUL1FyY2v_D+6aDy6HuTtT6w--g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <71b1738b.1b307e.1374849ca5b.Webtop.49@charter.net>
	<CA+7Nz3pqJWEdGmRmsDVM1JsnUL1FyY2v_D+6aDy6HuTtT6w--g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4FB067B9.2000502@earthlink.net>

For those so inclined to blow up their yard, see
http://www.garden-counselor-lawn-care.com/gopher-blaster.html

If I didn't live is a high fire danger area and have the septic tank in 
the middle of the infestation, I'd really be tempted.

Brian

On 5/13/2012 5:14 PM, Elton E. (Tony) Clark wrote:
> A fella on another forum once posted:
>
> *"Take your acceytlene welding torch and adjust the flame for a good medium
> neutral flame and mark the valve positions.  *
> *Extinguish the flame and turn on the gases to the proper marks and stick
> the tip down the ant hole and let it flow several minutes . . . arrange the
> hoses so you can light the torch and drag it back over the ant hole to
> ignite the gas you've injected.  Stand 'way back.  Donno if it really kills
> queen, larvae and everything but it sure is fun!"*
> **
> *Remember that it was SOME OTHER GUY who made the suggestion.*
> **
> *Tony*
> **
> **
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun May 13 20:18:24 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 13 May 2012 19:18:24 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT hep with ants PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <4FB04DF2.2070302@earthlink.net>
References: <71b1738b.1b307e.1374849ca5b.Webtop.49@charter.net>
	<4FB04DF2.2070302@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <0a5801cd3177$d7cf03b0$0601a8c0@randall>

> Tim - I have had best luck with ant baits. 

Ditto.

> The ants at my previous house liked the Zep or Enforcer baits 

Mine too.  They won't touch anything else.  None of the local stores carry
them, but Amazon does
http://goo.gl/nd8su

As noted, the secret is that it doesn't kill them right away.  That means
they carry it back to the nest and feed the queen.  By the time it starts to
work, she has already ingested a lethal dose.

But I only put down baits indoors or next to the house.  I don't mind if
they stay in the yard, just don't want them inside the house.

-- Randall  

From wmc_st at xxiii.com  Sun May 13 20:48:02 2012
From: wmc_st at xxiii.com (Wayne)
Date: Sun, 13 May 2012 22:48:02 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT hep with ants PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <71b1738b.1b307e.1374849ca5b.Webtop.49@charter.net>
References: <71b1738b.1b307e.1374849ca5b.Webtop.49@charter.net>
Message-ID: <4FB07262.1050209@xxiii.com>

On 5/13/2012 6:20 PM, Tim wrote:
> I have half a dozen or more ant 'hills' in my back yard; a yard that is
> only about 75x100 feet at best. They are about a half inch and black. I
> may have seen a white spot on the back end of one of the colony's

If they're that bad, call an exterminator. There are probably a lot more 
than what you can see! When I lived in Ohio, the bugs (like summer 
mosquitoes) were just annoying. 11 years now in North Caroline on 
heavily wooded land, they're BAD if you don't put down some heavy duty 
stuff to whack them!

The exterminators around here typically want you to sign up for an 
annual contract or plan for four applications a year. I pay $250/annual 
for it. Most common is an insecticide "Talstar" they is sprayed up the 
exterior foundation and walls, and 10 or so feet out into the yard. You 
can buy and apply it yourself, unlike some more heavily regulated 
chemicals. The local Southern States Store has it for $35/qt or you can 
order from Amazon. But as pricey as it is, I'm willing to pay to let 
someone else handle the toxic stuff!

It's been highly effective at keeping spiders, ants, gnats, etc out of 
the house and substantially reducing them outside.

-Wayne

From tputland at charter.net  Mon May 14 04:41:13 2012
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 06:41:13 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT hep with ants PLEASE
Message-ID: <6df4de24.1bb4a0.1374af008dc.Webtop.45@charter.net>

If I got flagged for OT, then I appologize.

BUT, in my defense, I did say "OT" in the subject line, AND, the more 
time I spend on ant remediation, the less time I have to spend in my 
SHOP working on my Datsuns.

tim


On Sun, May 13, 2012 at 7:51 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:

> I'll say that folks don't need to flag postings that are not about 
> cars
> as off topic.  We cover a LOT of ground on this list.  The combined
> knowledge of the subscribers is pretty impressive.  I may even be
> posting about my old Craftsman electric lawn mower soon, it kissed
> the turf today.
>
> Sorry I can't help with the ants, though.  I can help with Team.Net,
> updated
>
> http://www.team.net/status.html
>
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tputland at charter.net

From tputland at charter.net  Mon May 14 10:33:21 2012
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 12:33:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT hep with ants PLEASE
Message-ID: <c0c30b9.12c1e8.1374c32696d.Webtop.48@charter.net>

Guess I may have misunderstood mark's post. I assumed he was getting 
complaints, off list, about OT posts.

Back to my issue....

I have tried baits. The peanut butter based one I used was drawing bugs 
of all sorts including one beatle that got it's head stuck in the trap 
and there it died. I will look for the other types/brands suggested.

Cream of wheat? OK, I have enough hills to deal with, I will test this 
method on one of them.

As for the torch suggestion, I have one hill that is thriving around and 
under my fire pit so not sure how effective fire would be. But, I will 
say this, IF I resort to this method, it won't be with a torch, I would 
pour gas and then be able to stand back and light a "fuse". Hell, I have 
enough hills, I will gas one as well.

I was told boiling water works. Any one ever heard of this method?

I am also tempter to dig one out, into my wheel barrow, until I find the 
heart of the nest and then the queen. I could then use the torch to kill 
the little bastards as they swarm out of the piles in the wheel 
barrow.....bwaahahaahahaahahaah fire fire!

Thanks everyone!
tim


On Sun, May 13, 2012 at 7:51 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:

> I'll say that folks don't need to flag postings that are not about 
> cars
> as off topic.  We cover a LOT of ground on this list.  The combined
> knowledge of the subscribers is pretty impressive.  I may even be
> posting about my old Craftsman electric lawn mower soon, it kissed
> the turf today.
>
> Sorry I can't help with the ants, though.  I can help with Team.Net,
> updated
>
> http://www.team.net/status.html
>
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tputland at charter.net

From shannahquilts at gmail.com  Mon May 14 11:51:45 2012
From: shannahquilts at gmail.com (Shannah Miller)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 10:51:45 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT hep with ants PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <c0c30b9.12c1e8.1374c32696d.Webtop.48@charter.net>
References: <c0c30b9.12c1e8.1374c32696d.Webtop.48@charter.net>
Message-ID: <CAAy7z=2_+HHARhSre_Pmx8-72gV8bp+mrK1-A5jZsfvxF+uWfw@mail.gmail.com>

BBQ at Tim's house!

OK, I'll come clean: I suggested the Cream of Wheat because it has
actually worked for me.  I have no idea what the mechanism is, but
pouring a box of dry Cream of Wheat on an anthill was amazingly
effective.  I did one application, and it reduced the number of ants by
about 90%.  I can only imagine what more than one application would
do.

Shannah

On Mon, May 14, 2012 at 9:33 AM, Tim <tputland at charter.net> wrote:
> Guess I may have misunderstood mark's post. I assumed he was getting
> complaints, off list, about OT posts.
>
> Back to my issue....
>
> I have tried baits. The peanut butter based one I used was drawing bugs of
> all sorts including one beatle that got it's head stuck in the trap and
> there it died. I will look for the other types/brands suggested.
>
> Cream of wheat? OK, I have enough hills to deal with, I will test this
> method on one of them.
>
> As for the torch suggestion, I have one hill that is thriving around and
> under my fire pit so not sure how effective fire would be. But, I will say
> this, IF I resort to this method, it won't be with a torch, I would pour
gas
> and then be able to stand back and light a "fuse". Hell, I have enough
> hills, I will gas one as well.
>
> I was told boiling water works. Any one ever heard of this method?
>
> I am also tempter to dig one out, into my wheel barrow, until I find the
> heart of the nest and then the queen. I could then use the torch to kill
the
> little bastards as they swarm out of the piles in the wheel
> barrow.....bwaahahaahahaahahaah fire fire!
>
> Thanks everyone!
>
> tim
>
>
> On Sun, May 13, 2012 at 7:51 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
>
>> I'll say that folks don't need to flag postings that are not about cars
>> as off topic.  We cover a LOT of ground on this list.  The combined
>> knowledge of the subscribers is pretty impressive.  I may even be
>> posting about my old Craftsman electric lawn mower soon, it kissed
>> the turf today.
>>
>> Sorry I can't help with the ants, though.  I can help with Team.Net,
>> updated
>>
>> http://www.team.net/status.html
>>
>>
>> mjb.
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tputland at charter.net
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shannahquilts at gmail.com

From tputland at charter.net  Mon May 14 12:02:52 2012
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 14:02:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT hep with ants PLEASE
Message-ID: <105376d4.12dc27.1374c845e8d.Webtop.48@charter.net>

I wonder if the CofW works by expanding in their stomach when the eat it 
and then "explodes" them? Kind of like when you feed an alka selzer to a 
sea gull......

I am pretty sure someone once suggested non-instant grits to me. 
Probably works on the same "principle".


On Mon, May 14, 2012 at 12:51 PM, Shannah Miller wrote:

> BBQ at Tim's house!
>
> OK, I'll come clean: I suggested the Cream of Wheat because it has
> actually worked for me.  I have no idea what the mechanism is, but
> pouring a box of dry Cream of Wheat on an anthill was amazingly
> effective.  I did one application, and it reduced the number of ants 
> by
> about 90%.  I can only imagine what more than one application would
> do.
>
> Shannah

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Mon May 14 12:22:54 2012
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 13:22:54 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT hep with ants PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <c0c30b9.12c1e8.1374c32696d.Webtop.48@charter.net>
References: <c0c30b9.12c1e8.1374c32696d.Webtop.48@charter.net>
Message-ID: <000601cd31fe$94d25940$be770bc0$@ameritech.net>

Might be an old wives' tale, but it seems to work for us.  Our area is
incredibly sandy - 18+ inches of black top soil on at least 12 feet of sand,
and the ants love it - they come into the house every few months through
floor slab cracks in hidden areas.  We put corn meal out and they do indeed
disappear in a few days.  The story is that ants eat corn meal but can't
digest it, and eventually die from lack of nutrition.

Seems to work for us, though it's not all that fast and mainly kills the
ones who eat it - don't know how much they carry back to the nest before
they die.

From jem at milleredp.com  Mon May 14 13:50:24 2012
From: jem at milleredp.com (John Miller)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 12:50:24 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT hep with ants PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <105376d4.12dc27.1374c845e8d.Webtop.48@charter.net>
References: <105376d4.12dc27.1374c845e8d.Webtop.48@charter.net>
Message-ID: <4FB16200.6070303@milleredp.com>

On 5/14/2012 11:02 AM, Tim wrote:
> feed an alka selzer to a sea gull......

Where was THAT piece of information when I was in 6th grade?

John.

From mg_garage at comcast.net  Mon May 14 17:34:15 2012
From: mg_garage at comcast.net (gordies garage)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 19:34:15 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT hep with ants PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <c0c30b9.12c1e8.1374c32696d.Webtop.48@charter.net>
References: <c0c30b9.12c1e8.1374c32696d.Webtop.48@charter.net>
Message-ID: <F01078CAD7A142AB99D05CBB251961FF@stargate>

I have used Maxforce ant gel before with good success.  Just recently, I had 
several rather large anthills in the front yard.  I happened to have some 
leftover carpenter ant gel in a syringe that is injected through drywall 
next to studs.  I simply dripped some of the gel where they couldn't miss 
it.  A week later, all the ant hills are gone, at least for now.  I know 
they will be back, but even my stale, 2 yr old gel took out a couple of very 
large colonies.
Available many places including 
here...http://www.pestproductsonline.com/products/Maxforce_Ant_Killer_Bait_Gel_4_30_gm_tubes-81-0.html

HTH

Gordie

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Tim" <tputland at charter.net>
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2012 12:33 PM
To: <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] OT hep with ants PLEASE

> Guess I may have misunderstood mark's post. I assumed he was getting 
> complaints, off list, about OT posts.
>
> Back to my issue....
>
> I have tried baits. The peanut butter based one I used was drawing bugs of 
> all sorts including one beatle that got it's head stuck in the trap and 
> there it died. I will look for the other types/brands suggested.
>
> Cream of wheat? OK, I have enough hills to deal with, I will test this 
> method on one of them.
>
> As for the torch suggestion, I have one hill that is thriving around and 
> under my fire pit so not sure how effective fire would be. But, I will say 
> this, IF I resort to this method, it won't be with a torch, I would pour 
> gas and then be able to stand back and light a "fuse". Hell, I have enough 
> hills, I will gas one as well.
>
> I was told boiling water works. Any one ever heard of this method?
>
> I am also tempter to dig one out, into my wheel barrow, until I find the 
> heart of the nest and then the queen. I could then use the torch to kill 
> the little bastards as they swarm out of the piles in the wheel 
> barrow.....bwaahahaahahaahahaah fire fire!
>
> Thanks everyone!
> tim
>
>
> On Sun, May 13, 2012 at 7:51 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
>
>> I'll say that folks don't need to flag postings that are not about cars
>> as off topic.  We cover a LOT of ground on this list.  The combined
>> knowledge of the subscribers is pretty impressive.  I may even be
>> posting about my old Craftsman electric lawn mower soon, it kissed
>> the turf today.
>>
>> Sorry I can't help with the ants, though.  I can help with Team.Net,
>> updated
>>
>> http://www.team.net/status.html
>>
>>
>> mjb.
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tputland at charter.net
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mg_garage at comcast.net

From parkanzky at gmail.com  Mon May 14 19:13:30 2012
From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 21:13:30 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT hep with ants PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <F01078CAD7A142AB99D05CBB251961FF@stargate>
References: <c0c30b9.12c1e8.1374c32696d.Webtop.48@charter.net>
	<F01078CAD7A142AB99D05CBB251961FF@stargate>
Message-ID: <E44318A5-F274-4DF3-A917-A7CBC64F63DD@gmail.com>

I'm a big believer in Terro ant killer.  Anytime we have ants I put a couple
of caps full out and they're all gone in a few days.

-Paul

On May 14, 2012, at 7:34 PM, "gordies garage" <mg_garage at comcast.net> wrote:

> I have used Maxforce ant gel before with good success.  Just recently, I had
several rather large anthills in the front yard.  I happened to have some
leftover carpenter ant gel in a syringe that is injected through drywall next
to studs.  I simply dripped some of the gel where they couldn't miss it.  A
week later, all the ant hills are gone, at least for now.  I know they will be
back, but even my stale, 2 yr old gel took out a couple of very large
colonies.
> Available many places including
here...http://www.pestproductsonline.com/products/Maxforce_Ant_Killer_Bait_Ge
l_4_30_gm_tubes-81-0.html
>
> HTH
>
> Gordie
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Tim" <tputland at charter.net>
> Sent: Monday, May 14, 2012 12:33 PM
> To: <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] OT hep with ants PLEASE
>
>> Guess I may have misunderstood mark's post. I assumed he was getting
complaints, off list, about OT posts.
>>
>> Back to my issue....
>>
>> I have tried baits. The peanut butter based one I used was drawing bugs of
all sorts including one beatle that got it's head stuck in the trap and there
it died. I will look for the other types/brands suggested.
>>
>> Cream of wheat? OK, I have enough hills to deal with, I will test this
method on one of them.
>>
>> As for the torch suggestion, I have one hill that is thriving around and
under my fire pit so not sure how effective fire would be. But, I will say
this, IF I resort to this method, it won't be with a torch, I would pour gas
and then be able to stand back and light a "fuse". Hell, I have enough hills,
I will gas one as well.
>>
>> I was told boiling water works. Any one ever heard of this method?
>>
>> I am also tempter to dig one out, into my wheel barrow, until I find the
heart of the nest and then the queen. I could then use the torch to kill the
little bastards as they swarm out of the piles in the wheel
barrow.....bwaahahaahahaahahaah fire fire!
>>
>> Thanks everyone!
>> tim
>>
>>
>> On Sun, May 13, 2012 at 7:51 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
>>
>>> I'll say that folks don't need to flag postings that are not about cars
>>> as off topic.  We cover a LOT of ground on this list.  The combined
>>> knowledge of the subscribers is pretty impressive.  I may even be
>>> posting about my old Craftsman electric lawn mower soon, it kissed
>>> the turf today.
>>>
>>> Sorry I can't help with the ants, though.  I can help with Team.Net,
>>> updated
>>>
>>> http://www.team.net/status.html
>>>
>>>
>>> mjb.
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tputland at charter.net
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mg_garage at comcast.net
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/parkanzky at gmail.com

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Mon May 14 19:51:18 2012
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 21:51:18 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT help with ants PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <F01078CAD7A142AB99D05CBB251961FF@stargate>
References: <c0c30b9.12c1e8.1374c32696d.Webtop.48@charter.net>
	<F01078CAD7A142AB99D05CBB251961FF@stargate>
Message-ID: <8CF72072EFFF479F88158AA8656832BF@EricJRussellPC>

Cement? 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FLHAdwxLD-I 

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon May 14 21:34:38 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 21:34:38 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT hep with ants PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <6df4de24.1bb4a0.1374af008dc.Webtop.45@charter.net>
References: <6df4de24.1bb4a0.1374af008dc.Webtop.45@charter.net>
Message-ID: <4FB1CECE.6080907@bradakis.com>

Tim wrote:
> If I got flagged for OT, then I appologize.

What I meant was you did NOT have to say it was off topic - this is the kind
of stuff we like to talk about.  We are here to solve problems, 
especially ones
that require buying new tools or hazardous materials!

mjb.

From hillman at planet-torque.com  Wed May 16 19:13:08 2012
From: hillman at planet-torque.com (David Hillman)
Date: Wed, 16 May 2012 21:13:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Locking Hinge?
In-Reply-To: <CAMHhs6fAvD=NT8dzdO98KQ_CwD9Z4-DuP5y0Ad3Gh7tO5+kLMQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMHhs6fAvD=NT8dzdO98KQ_CwD9Z4-DuP5y0Ad3Gh7tO5+kLMQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <alpine.BSF.2.00.1205162101500.93194@itonami.pair.com>

    I have a shop project ( <-content ) I want to build, but I need a pair 
of hinges for it.  It seems like I should be able to find something 
similar and repurpose it, since my requirements are not overly-specific, 
but I can't.  I may not be looking in the right places.

    I need to join two elements, let's say 1" square steel tubes, although 
that's negotiable, end-to-end, like the bones of a human arm ( pretending 
the radius and ulna are one bone, for the moment ).  The key is, when 
extended, I need it to lock automatically ( manual release is fine ).  I 
think I could build it, if necessary, but first, can I buy something like 
this?  Doesn't need to be massively strong, say, 200 pounds load would be 
very safe.  90* bend would be nice, but anything more than 45* could 
probably be made to work.

    McMaster and other typical sources don't seem to have anything, but 
again, I might be missing it.

    Thanks for any brain storms you might have.

--
  David Hillman

From LeeHart at LeeHart.Com  Wed May 16 22:40:39 2012
From: LeeHart at LeeHart.Com (Lee Hart)
Date: Wed, 16 May 2012 21:40:39 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Locking Hinge?
In-Reply-To: <alpine.BSF.2.00.1205162101500.93194@itonami.pair.com>
References: <CAMHhs6fAvD=NT8dzdO98KQ_CwD9Z4-DuP5y0Ad3Gh7tO5+kLMQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<alpine.BSF.2.00.1205162101500.93194@itonami.pair.com>
Message-ID: <7382386CFA10D842A4268AD3142382AFDF2619@Pokie2.ad.hartbrothers.com>

David Hillman:
> I have a shop project ( <-content ) I want to build, but I
need a pair of hinges for it.
> It seems like I should be able to find something similar
and repurpose it, since my
> requirements are not overly-specific, but I can't.  I may
not be looking in the right places.

> I need to join two elements, let's say 1" square steel
tubes, although that's negotiable,
> end-to-end, like the bones of a human arm ( pretending the
radius and ulna are one
> bone, for the moment ).  The key is, when extended, I need
it to lock automatically
> ( manual release is fine ).  I think I could build it, if
necessary, but first, can I buy
> something like this?

Something like the locking hinges in a folding ladder?

<http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GQ8WS8>

Depending on the value of your time it may make sense to buy
one (perhaps used on a Craigslist or ebay) and cut it up.

Lee

From hillman at planet-torque.com  Thu May 17 00:27:51 2012
From: hillman at planet-torque.com (David Hillman)
Date: Thu, 17 May 2012 02:27:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Locking Hinge?
In-Reply-To: <7382386CFA10D842A4268AD3142382AFDF2619@Pokie2.ad.hartbrothers.com>
References: <CAMHhs6fAvD=NT8dzdO98KQ_CwD9Z4-DuP5y0Ad3Gh7tO5+kLMQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<alpine.BSF.2.00.1205162101500.93194@itonami.pair.com>
	<7382386CFA10D842A4268AD3142382AFDF2619@Pokie2.ad.hartbrothers.com>
Message-ID: <alpine.BSF.2.00.1205170224400.65744@itonami.pair.com>

On Wed, 16 May 2012, Lee Hart wrote:
> Something like the locking hinges in a folding ladder?
>
> <http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GQ8WS8>
>
> Depending on the value of your time it may make sense to buy
> one (perhaps used on a Craigslist or ebay) and cut it up.

    You know, that might work.  And I have one of those ladders, already, 
although I do use it from time to time.

    Thanks.

--
  David Hillman

From bk13 at earthlink.net  Thu May 17 08:45:53 2012
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Thu, 17 May 2012 07:45:53 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Locking Hinge?
In-Reply-To: <alpine.BSF.2.00.1205162101500.93194@itonami.pair.com>
References: <CAMHhs6fAvD=NT8dzdO98KQ_CwD9Z4-DuP5y0Ad3Gh7tO5+kLMQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<alpine.BSF.2.00.1205162101500.93194@itonami.pair.com>
Message-ID: <4FB50F21.6050408@earthlink.net>

David - If you want it to just stop at the open 180 degree level, you 
could use a piece of bar stock on one side and angle iron on the other. 
Round the end of the bar stock and have the pivot at the end. Put the 
pivot a couple inches back on the angle iron. When flat, the bar will 
hit the edge of the angle and stop. You could also do this with nested 
square tubes. Just cut off one side from the larger one a few inches back.

You could make it lock by adding a sleeve with a spring that slides over 
the joint.

Brian

On 5/16/2012 6:13 PM, David Hillman wrote:
> I have a shop project ( <-content ) I want to build, but I need a pair 
> of hinges for it. It seems like I should be able to find something 
> similar and repurpose it, since my requirements are not 
> overly-specific, but I can't. I may not be looking in the right places.
>
> I need to join two elements, let's say 1" square steel tubes, although 
> that's negotiable, end-to-end, like the bones of a human arm ( 
> pretending the radius and ulna are one bone, for the moment ). The key 
> is, when extended, I need it to lock automatically ( manual release is 
> fine ). I think I could build it, if necessary, but first, can I buy 
> something like this? Doesn't need to be massively strong, say, 200 
> pounds load would be very safe. 90* bend would be nice, but anything 
> more than 45* could probably be made to work.
>
> McMaster and other typical sources don't seem to have anything, but 
> again, I might be missing it.
>
> Thanks for any brain storms you might have.
>
> -- 
> David Hillman
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Thu May 17 09:33:19 2012
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Thu, 17 May 2012 10:33:19 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT - California destinations
Message-ID: <001701cd3442$63152b30$293f8190$@ameritech.net>

Since so many list members live in California, this seems like a good group
to ask.

 

My wife and I are taking our first "real" vacation in 38 years of marriage.
We're flying to San Diego and driving to San Francisco, trying to see
everything we can in between.  Planning on taking the coast highway as much
as possible or advisable.  Shop content - we're renting a Mustang
convertible and that reminds me that I need to change the oil in mine ;-)

 

Any good automotive, aircraft, or generally interesting things that we
should include?  Events that would interest shop and car and airplane fans
between June 5 and 16?

 

Thanks for your indulgence!  Please reply off-list

Karl 

From pethier at comcast.net  Thu May 17 12:41:56 2012
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 17 May 2012 18:41:56 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT - California destinations
In-Reply-To: <001701cd3442$63152b30$293f8190$@ameritech.net>
Message-ID: <1495081344.566934.1337280116177.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Hearst Castle, on the Pacific Coast Highway in San Simeon, just a ways north of San Luis Obispo.  Have a burger made from cattle raised right there on the property.  Take the bus ride up the mountain to "The Ranch".
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/3967578507/in/set-72157622574405912/
through
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/3968362526/in/set-72157622574405912

If you go further north than San Francisco, the Chandelier Tree in Leggett is a coast redwood you can drive your car through.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/3955216888/in/set-72157622574405912

Japanese Garden in San Francisco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/3958570814/in/set-72157622574405912

Blackhawk car collection in Danville, in the East Bay area.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/3961190563/in/set-72157622574405912

The Sandbar & Grill, on the Monterey Municipal dock.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/3999263543/in/set-72157622574405912/

Seven Gable Bed & Breakfast in Pacific Grove (Monterey)
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Karl Vacek" <kvacek at ameritech.net>
> To: shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 10:33:19 AM
> Subject: [Shop-talk] OT - California destinations
> Since so many list members live in California, this seems like a good
> group
> to ask.
> 
> 
> 
> My wife and I are taking our first "real" vacation in 38 years of
> marriage.
> We're flying to San Diego and driving to San Francisco, trying to see
> everything we can in between. Planning on taking the coast highway as
> much
> as possible or advisable. Shop content - we're renting a Mustang
> convertible and that reminds me that I need to change the oil in mine
> ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> Any good automotive, aircraft, or generally interesting things that we
> should include? Events that would interest shop and car and airplane
> fans
> between June 5 and 16?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your indulgence! Please reply off-list
> 
> Karl
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pethier at comcast.net

From doug at dougbraun.com  Thu May 17 13:12:38 2012
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Thu, 17 May 2012 15:12:38 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT - California destinations
In-Reply-To: <001701cd3442$63152b30$293f8190$@ameritech.net>
References: <001701cd3442$63152b30$293f8190$@ameritech.net>
Message-ID: <CAOtbU9Wb0DULiEW--omHmwsJXyNwe6C8syNejFfamVjWeVy-8A@mail.gmail.com>

I took my kids to CA over spring break a couple of years ago, and we drove
from SF to Yosemite.
On the way, in the middle of the Central Valley, I saw a sign for the
Castle Air Museum, which I had never heard of.
We stopped by, and saw all sorts of amazing airplanes on display, including
a B-36 Peacemaker bomber,
which I've wanted to see for many years.  It was an unplanned but wonderful
diversion.

 http://www.castleairmuseum.org/

Doug


On Thu, May 17, 2012 at 11:33 AM, Karl Vacek <kvacek at ameritech.net> wrote:

> Since so many list members live in California, this seems like a good group
> to ask.
>
>
>
> My wife and I are taking our first "real" vacation in 38 years of marriage.
> We're flying to San Diego and driving to San Francisco, trying to see
> everything we can in between.  Planning on taking the coast highway as much
> as possible or advisable.  Shop content - we're renting a Mustang
> convertible and that reminds me that I need to change the oil in mine ;-)
>
>
>
> Any good automotive, aircraft, or generally interesting things that we
> should include?  Events that would interest shop and car and airplane fans
> between June 5 and 16?
>
>
>
> Thanks for your indulgence!  Please reply off-list
>
> Karl
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug at dougbraun.com

From koblinger at verizon.net  Thu May 17 13:23:41 2012
From: koblinger at verizon.net (koblinger at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 17 May 2012 14:23:41 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT - California destinations
Message-ID: <4661728.658471.1337282621590.JavaMail.root@vms170025>

/local/mailman/lynxXXXXL7H66C: Permission denied

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu May 17 13:31:39 2012
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 17 May 2012 19:31:39 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT - California destinations
In-Reply-To: <001701cd3442$63152b30$293f8190$@ameritech.net>
Message-ID: <213033648.515064.1337283099449.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Well, I've only lived in CA for 59 years (since birth) but I'll chime in anyway. 

The Coast Route--Hwy 1--is nice, but for me the ocean gets old after a couple hundred miles. One of my favorite drives--which includes twistys like in the Alps--is Hwy 33 NE off 1 through Ojai (a scenic town in its own right) up to Hwy 166 west back to the coast. Narrow, but good mountain 2-lane that ends in some open prairie and oil/cattle country. 

North of Monterey, try Hwy 46 east to Cholame--where James Dean was killed--then go north towards Parkfield/Coalinga (I was born in Coalinga). Turn west again on Hwy 198 and, if it's not too late in the season, pass some well-known wildflower spots. Take Hwy 25 north and stop at Pinnacles National Park and you're likely to see some condors. Hwy 25 is pretty scenic until Hollister, then you could hop back over to the coast for San Gregorio, Half Moon Bay, etc. then up to SF to cross the bridge (hopefully, you don't have to ask 'which bridge?'). 

There's 'Planes of Fame' in Chino--which supplies a lot of stuff for the movies--but I don't know if it's open to the public or not. 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


Since so many list members live in California, this seems like a good group 
to ask. 



My wife and I are taking our first "real" vacation in 38 years of marriage. 
We're flying to San Diego and driving to San Francisco, trying to see 
everything we can in between. Planning on taking the coast highway as much 
as possible or advisable. Shop content - we're renting a Mustang 
convertible and that reminds me that I need to change the oil in mine ;-) 



Any good automotive, aircraft, or generally interesting things that we 
should include? Events that would interest shop and car and airplane fans 
between June 5 and 16? 



Thanks for your indulgence! Please reply off-list 

Karl 

From burdickm at mindspring.com  Thu May 17 17:19:20 2012
From: burdickm at mindspring.com (Michael Burdick)
Date: Thu, 17 May 2012 19:19:20 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT - California destinations
In-Reply-To: <001701cd3442$63152b30$293f8190$@ameritech.net>
References: <001701cd3442$63152b30$293f8190$@ameritech.net>
Message-ID: <CAOp9YTJtdvu3BWWhw1fGrk2kVTELYjmq_gLMYLKRCB6EnD0vUQ@mail.gmail.com>

My dad just went to the Mullin museum in LA and said it was great.

From bk13 at earthlink.net  Thu May 17 20:01:44 2012
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (bk13)
Date: Thu, 17 May 2012 19:01:44 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT - California destinations
Message-ID: <15392697.1337306504569.JavaMail.root@elwamui-karabash.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Karl - Some interesting places include:

http://lyonairmuseum.org/ in Santa Ana between San Diego and LA, at John Wayne Airport.

and

http://www.nethercuttcollection.org/ in Sylmar, near the I5 and I210 junction on the north side of LA.  If you can make the guided tour (need a reservation), you will see some nice cars, a huge glass hood ornament collection, and interesting self playing musical instruments.  The collection for the self guided tour is also very extensive.

Brian in LA


-----Original Message-----
>From: Karl Vacek <kvacek at ameritech.net>
>Sent: May 17, 2012 8:33 AM
>To: shop-talk at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Shop-talk] OT - California destinations
>
>Since so many list members live in California, this seems like a good group
>to ask.
>
> 
>
>My wife and I are taking our first "real" vacation in 38 years of marriage.
>We're flying to San Diego and driving to San Francisco, trying to see
>everything we can in between.  Planning on taking the coast highway as much
>as possible or advisable.  Shop content - we're renting a Mustang
>convertible and that reminds me that I need to change the oil in mine ;-)
>
> 
>
>Any good automotive, aircraft, or generally interesting things that we
>should include?  Events that would interest shop and car and airplane fans
>between June 5 and 16?
>
> 
>
>Thanks for your indulgence!  Please reply off-list
>
>Karl 
>_______________________________________________
>
>Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net

From tputland at charter.net  Thu May 17 20:33:52 2012
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Thu, 17 May 2012 22:33:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT - California destinations
Message-ID: <7424ad17.1efefa.1375dcb4726.Webtop.49@charter.net>

If you go far enough north, you have to at least drive around Lake 
Tahoe. (I am biased having grown up in NorCal and also once lived in 
Tahoe, but it is a beautiful area!)

I also lived very close to Fisherman's Warf but most of the Bay Area is 
in no way a must see in my opinion; especially if you have Yosemite 
and/or Tahoe on your list.

Laguna Seca would be a fun diversion for me.

tim


On Thu, May 17, 2012 at 10:33 AM, Karl Vacek wrote:

> Since so many list members live in California, this seems like a good 
> group
> to ask.
>
>
> My wife and I are taking our first "real" vacation in 38 years of 
> marriage.
> We're flying to San Diego and driving to San Francisco, trying to see
> everything we can in between.  Planning on taking the coast highway as 
> much
> as possible or advisable.  Shop content - we're renting a Mustang
> convertible and that reminds me that I need to change the oil in mine 
> ;-)
>
>
> Any good automotive, aircraft, or generally interesting things that we
> should include?  Events that would interest shop and car and airplane 
> fans
> between June 5 and 16?
>
>
> Thanks for your indulgence!  Please reply off-list
>
> Karl _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tputland at charter.net

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu May 17 23:20:56 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 17 May 2012 22:20:56 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT - California destinations
In-Reply-To: <001701cd3442$63152b30$293f8190$@ameritech.net>
References: <001701cd3442$63152b30$293f8190$@ameritech.net>
Message-ID: <0fc101cd34b6$01177860$0601a8c0@randall>

If you're going past San Simeon (Hearst Castle), be sure to stop at the
Piedra Blancas beach just north of there and see the colony of elephant
seals.  I don't think you'll see any mature males this time of year, but the
females and pups are impressive enough.
http://goo.gl/3XOUE

The Petersen automotive museum in West LA (founded by the same Robert
Petersen that published Hot Rod magazine, Motor Trend, Motor Life and
CARtoons) is worth a visit, IMO.
http://www.petersen.org/

If you have time and are so inclined, walk up Wilshire Blvd a few blocks
from there and see the La Brea tar pits.
http://goo.gl/m20Rf
There is a museum next door that exhibits many of the fossils that have been
dug from the tar; but the pits are more interesting to me.  Although they
have been faked up a bit (the mammoths in the pit aren't real <g>), that is
still natural petroleum and gas bubbling up out of the ground.

-- Randall  

From nick at landform.co.uk  Fri May 18 01:39:43 2012
From: nick at landform.co.uk (nick brearley)
Date: Fri, 18 May 2012 08:39:43 +0100
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT - California destinations
In-Reply-To: <001701cd3442$63152b30$293f8190$@ameritech.net>
References: <001701cd3442$63152b30$293f8190$@ameritech.net>
Message-ID: <4FB5FCBF.6020801@landform.co.uk>

Hi Karl,

Can't claim any California roots but have enjoyed many holidays there 
over the years. A few suggestions:

La Brea Tar Pits in LA are interesting, nothing automotive but pretty 
unique natural history stuff.

NASA JPL in Pasadena do guided tours, book via website. For an 
Englishman it was very good, for an American I imagine you'd be 
interested to see how your tax dollars are spent.

Mulholland Drive LA is a great scenic drive. At the western end there's 
an interesting cold war radar site.

Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo are worth visiting. Solvang in between 
is a faux Danish town but nicely done. Go to Firestone Winery near Los 
Olivos to see how a winery can be done if you don't have to rely on wine 
profits to build it.

Morro Bay or Cambria make good stopping places on the route north, handy 
for Hearst Castle. Bar the power station Morro Bay is a nice little town.

Coastal drive in Monterey is good.

+1 on Castle Air Museum but it's some way inland on I99. A great road 
for Big Ag.

Marin County and Point Reyes just over the bridge from SF are very scenic.

Wondered about a Mustang convertible for our next trip, I'd be 
interested to hear how you get on with fitting your luggage in the trunk.

Good luck.

Nick Brearley

From lists at dinospider.com  Fri May 18 09:04:12 2012
From: lists at dinospider.com (Mike Rambour)
Date: Fri, 18 May 2012 08:04:12 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT - California destinations
In-Reply-To: <4FB5FCBF.6020801@landform.co.uk>
References: <001701cd3442$63152b30$293f8190$@ameritech.net>
	<4FB5FCBF.6020801@landform.co.uk>
Message-ID: <4FB664EC.8070703@dinospider.com>

On 05/18/2012 12:39 AM, nick brearley wrote:
> Hi Karl,
>
> Can't claim any California roots but have enjoyed many holidays there 
> over the years. A few suggestions:
>
> La Brea Tar Pits in LA are interesting, nothing automotive but pretty 
> unique natural history stuff.

   LOTS of automotive stuff  next to La Brea Tar Pits, its only a short 
block from the Peterson Museum, we ususally park at Peterson and then 
walk to La Brea, its not even a full block away.

>
> Wondered about a Mustang convertible for our next trip, I'd be 
> interested to hear how you get on with fitting your luggage in the trunk.

  How much luggage do you have ? wife and I can go for 2 week road trips 
in my S2000 with lots of left over luggage space and the Mustang has 
enough luggage room for ... uh...lets just says it has enough for a few 
months worth of luggage.

From roadster at astound.net  Fri May 18 22:42:07 2012
From: roadster at astound.net (Fred Katz)
Date: Fri, 18 May 2012 21:42:07 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT - California destinations
In-Reply-To: <001701cd3442$63152b30$293f8190$@ameritech.net>
References: <001701cd3442$63152b30$293f8190$@ameritech.net>
Message-ID: <4297643A-9AAC-4794-B5CC-C20C86EDADC6@astound.net>

Jack Mendenhall Museum of Gasoline Pumps
in Buellton, near Santa Barbara, is a must see. Lots of vintage gas pumps, and
old signage. It's a private museum and you have to make reservations. Car
clubs often have displays of their vintage cars at the museum - again, by
reservation. Buellton is like three minutes from Solvang. Solvang is a Danish
settlement with lots of great eateries and Danish treats.

Fred -
Sent from my iPad

On May 17, 2012, at 8:33 AM, "Karl Vacek" <kvacek at ameritech.net> wrote:

> Since so many list members live in California, this seems like a good group
> to ask.
>
>
>
> My wife and I are taking our first "real" vacation in 38 years of marriage.
> We're flying to San Diego and driving to San Francisco, trying to see
> everything we can in between.  Planning on taking the coast highway as much
> as possible or advisable.  Shop content - we're renting a Mustang
> convertible and that reminds me that I need to change the oil in mine ;-)
>
>
>
> Any good automotive, aircraft, or generally interesting things that we
> should include?  Events that would interest shop and car and airplane fans
> between June 5 and 16?
>
>
>
> Thanks for your indulgence!  Please reply off-list
>
> Karl
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/roadster at astound.net

From ericm at lne.com  Mon May 21 13:55:25 2012
From: ericm at lne.com (Eric Murray)
Date: Mon, 21 May 2012 12:55:25 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT - California destinations
In-Reply-To: <4297643A-9AAC-4794-B5CC-C20C86EDADC6@astound.net>
References: <001701cd3442$63152b30$293f8190$@ameritech.net>
	<4297643A-9AAC-4794-B5CC-C20C86EDADC6@astound.net>
Message-ID: <4FBA9DAD.8050603@lne.com>

HIghway 1 is usually full of tourists on the weekend.  Expect slow and 
erratic driving.  It's not bad if you're checking out the scenery but if 
you want to enjoy a nice twisty road it can be frustrating.

There's a nice moderate sized motorcycle museum in Solvang:  
http://www.motosolvang.com/

I found it by accident when I was there for a bicycle ride.  My wife and 
I spent a couple hours there after the ride.

Pretty much anywhere you go on the coast will be interesting.   I've 
lived here for 50 years and I'm still finding new stuff.

Eric

On 05/18/2012 09:42 PM, Fred Katz wrote:
> Jack Mendenhall Museum of Gasoline Pumps
> in Buellton, near Santa Barbara, is a must see. Lots of vintage gas pumps, and
> old signage. It's a private museum and you have to make reservations. Car
> clubs often have displays of their vintage cars at the museum - again, by
> reservation. Buellton is like three minutes from Solvang. Solvang is a Danish
> settlement with lots of great eateries and Danish treats.
>
> Fred -
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On May 17, 2012, at 8:33 AM, "Karl Vacek"<kvacek at ameritech.net>  wrote:
>
>> Since so many list members live in California, this seems like a good group
>> to ask.
>>
>>
>>
>> My wife and I are taking our first "real" vacation in 38 years of marriage.
>> We're flying to San Diego and driving to San Francisco, trying to see
>> everything we can in between.  Planning on taking the coast highway as much
>> as possible or advisable.  Shop content - we're renting a Mustang
>> convertible and that reminds me that I need to change the oil in mine ;-)
>>
>>
>>
>> Any good automotive, aircraft, or generally interesting things that we
>> should include?  Events that would interest shop and car and airplane fans
>> between June 5 and 16?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks for your indulgence!  Please reply off-list
>>
>> Karl
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/roadster at astound.net
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ericm at lne.com

From jniolon at att.net  Mon May 21 19:19:33 2012
From: jniolon at att.net (John Niolon)
Date: Mon, 21 May 2012 20:19:33 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] value of welding trailer
Message-ID: <18B2E5D902B741ECA2331D0F2867AA46@john5043a2d406>

Gentlemen,

I've got a trailer mounted Bobcat 250 gas welder I'd like to sell. The trailer
includes small welders box, racks for lead, racks for bottles, two 200 W
halogen lights, 6" Vise. small fire extinguisher and about 100 feet of
lead/ground. The welder also has a custom heavy canvas cover made by fun_4_now
who haunts this board..it's been shed kept it's entire life and I don't
remember rain ever falling on it.

The welder has less than 100 hours on it and a battery bought last year. I've
had it about 5 years and the plans I had for it fell thru due to a death in
the family. I'm not trying to sell it here but wondering if you experts could
come up with a good price to ask for it. I know the welder is worth around
3500 new. and this one hasn't had a tank of gas run thru it total. Stabil
always included in the gas and it's run every month or so to keep the battery
up. Starts quick, runs smooth and welds. well like a Miller welder welds. 15"
tires and will throw in the ball lock.Pics below and a sketch of the trailer
with dimensions.... Can you help me come up with an asking price. ??? It lives
at my house in Hueytown, Al..

thanks

john



pics can be seen at
http://jniolon.classicpickup.com/weldingtrailer/trailerpics.htm

From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com  Tue May 22 07:26:15 2012
From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott)
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 09:26:15 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] value of welding trailer
In-Reply-To: <18B2E5D902B741ECA2331D0F2867AA46@john5043a2d406>
References: <18B2E5D902B741ECA2331D0F2867AA46@john5043a2d406>
Message-ID: <4FBB93F7.3010902@gmail.com>

John,

I see stuff like that around here from time to time. The cheapest I've 
ever seen one is about $4,000, and the most expensive is about $6,000.

For what it's worth.

Scott

On 5/21/2012 9:19 PM, John Niolon wrote:
> Gentlemen,
>
> I've got a trailer mounted Bobcat 250 gas welder I'd like to sell. The trailer
> includes small welders box, racks for lead, racks for bottles, two 200 W
> halogen lights, 6" Vise. small fire extinguisher and about 100 feet of
> lead/ground. The welder also has a custom heavy canvas cover made by fun_4_now
> who haunts this board..it's been shed kept it's entire life and I don't
> remember rain ever falling on it.
>
> The welder has less than 100 hours on it and a battery bought last year. I've
> had it about 5 years and the plans I had for it fell thru due to a death in
> the family. I'm not trying to sell it here but wondering if you experts could
> come up with a good price to ask for it. I know the welder is worth around
> 3500 new. and this one hasn't had a tank of gas run thru it total. Stabil
> always included in the gas and it's run every month or so to keep the battery
> up. Starts quick, runs smooth and welds. well like a Miller welder welds. 15"
> tires and will throw in the ball lock.Pics below and a sketch of the trailer
> with dimensions.... Can you help me come up with an asking price. ??? It lives
> at my house in Hueytown, Al..
>
> thanks
>
> john
>
>
>
> pics can be seen at
> http://jniolon.classicpickup.com/weldingtrailer/trailerpics.htm
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/scott.hall.personal at gmail.com

From hillman at planet-torque.com  Tue May 22 07:48:06 2012
From: hillman at planet-torque.com (David Hillman)
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 09:48:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] value of welding trailer
In-Reply-To: <4FBB93F7.3010902@gmail.com>
References: <18B2E5D902B741ECA2331D0F2867AA46@john5043a2d406>
	<4FBB93F7.3010902@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <alpine.BSF.2.00.1205220943400.15099@itonami.pair.com>

On Tue, 22 May 2012, Scott wrote:
> I see stuff like that around here from time to time. The cheapest I've ever 
> seen one is about $4,000, and the most expensive is about $6,000.

    Right now there's two Bobcats on Craigslist here, both around 1500 
hours.  A 225 on a much lower-end trailer for $3500, and a naked 250 for 
$3400.

    John's setup is much nicer than both.

--
  David Hillman

From ronnie.day at gmail.com  Tue May 22 08:04:47 2012
From: ronnie.day at gmail.com (Ronnie Day)
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 09:04:47 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] value of welding trailer
In-Reply-To: <alpine.BSF.2.00.1205220943400.15099@itonami.pair.com>
References: <18B2E5D902B741ECA2331D0F2867AA46@john5043a2d406>
	<4FBB93F7.3010902@gmail.com>
	<alpine.BSF.2.00.1205220943400.15099@itonami.pair.com>
Message-ID: <CAMHhs6c3OXzQA60MQBze77OTu93UBjN9CurYmT_b3Rw=v7=5wA@mail.gmail.com>

VERY nice setup, John. I wish I was in a position to take advantage of the
deal.

On Tue, May 22, 2012 at 8:48 AM, David Hillman <hillman at planet-torque.com>wrote:

> On Tue, 22 May 2012, Scott wrote:
>
>> I see stuff like that around here from time to time. The cheapest I've
>> ever seen one is about $4,000, and the most expensive is about $6,000.
>>
>
>   Right now there's two Bobcats on Craigslist here, both around 1500
> hours.  A 225 on a much lower-end trailer for $3500, and a naked 250 for
> $3400.
>
>   John's setup is much nicer than both.
>
> --
>  David Hillman
>
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/shop-talk/ronnie.day@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ronnie.day at gmail.com>

From cornerexit at gmail.com  Tue May 22 11:14:51 2012
From: cornerexit at gmail.com (cornerexit)
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 10:14:51 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] 12x16 storage shed, where to put door?
Message-ID: <4fbbc972.ca3b440a.4185.ffffebda@mx.google.com>

I'm building a 12x16 storage shed on skids on some undeveloped property to
store miscellaneous tools and such in while I develop the homesite and
shopsite on the property. May end up using it to store an atv at some point
also. This will be the only structure on the property for some time and will
probably need to pull double duty as a small workshop (mostly just a small
work bench) as well as for storage. There will be no power to the shed
initially. May try and outfit it with some solar lighting but the property
is mostly forest so I don't know how that will work. There will be generator
power on site.

 

As the site is developed I suspect the shed will transition to more of a
lawn and garden type shed for a riding lawnmower and related gardening
items, etc. 

 

I purchased some $17 plans which are pretty compressive and include a
complete materials list. It has 8' walls (I'm pretty tall and hate hitting
my head) a gable roof with the peak running along the 16' dimension. The
skids also run along the 16' dimension. 

 

The door (double door with 6' width) can be installed along the 12'
dimension or the 16' dimension.

 

I'm leaning towards putting the door along the 16' dimension as it may mean
easier access to items in the shed. I'm a bit worried that a door along the
12' dimension would result in difficult to access items that are buried in
the 16' deep shed. Also, the open doors on the 12' side might allow more
natural light into the shed.

 

Where would you put the door?

 

Thanks

Wayne

From jniolon at att.net  Tue May 22 11:39:23 2012
From: jniolon at att.net (John Niolon)
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 12:39:23 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] 12x16 storage shed, where to put door?
References: <4fbbc972.ca3b440a.4185.ffffebda@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <C12077F2F65546678638702283B0B6F2@john5043a2d406>

if you're building from scratch... I'd put the wide door in the 12' end. (6' 
minimum -- 8' better).. that way you can drive in the atv or zero turn and 
park it..   THEN put an additional walk door (36" or 48") in the long wall 
so you have access to the entire shed from the side while the mower/atv is 
parked... no climbing or tripping or hunting...   couldn't cost much more 
than a set of hinges and some locking mechanism...

I'd also place it and  paint it to blend in with the surroundings to make it 
less noticeable and put some secure cross  bars (2) on the inside of the 
doors if possible...well... one door will have to be barred from the outside 
won't it ? :-)  It's amazing how much work someone will put into stealing 
things.  No windows or if you do add bars there also...

regular passage locks are a waste... and give up easily to a large pair of 
channel locks or a pipe wrench... might as well leave it open...1/2" x 3 or 
4" flat bar secured in saddles made from the same material  ... heavy non 
exposed hardware (weld the mounting bolts to the back of the saddles and 
mount them thru the long side of the studs... and serious locks  with some 
cut proof covers (lock inside a tube)... and that won't be enough to stop a 
determined thief with battery operated tools.

just some ideas
john
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "cornerexit" <cornerexit at gmail.com>
To: <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2012 12:14 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] 12x16 storage shed, where to put door?


> I'm building a 12x16 storage shed on skids on some undeveloped property to
> store miscellaneous tools and such in while I develop the homesite and
> shopsite on the property. May end up using it to store an atv at some 
> point
> also. This will be the only structure on the property for some time and 
> will
> probably need to pull double duty as a small workshop (mostly just a small
> work bench) as well as for storage. There will be no power to the shed
> initially. May try and outfit it with some solar lighting but the property
> is mostly forest so I don't know how that will work. There will be 
> generator
> power on site.
>
>
>
> As the site is developed I suspect the shed will transition to more of a
> lawn and garden type shed for a riding lawnmower and related gardening
> items, etc.
>
>
>
> I purchased some $17 plans which are pretty compressive and include a
> complete materials list. It has 8' walls (I'm pretty tall and hate hitting
> my head) a gable roof with the peak running along the 16' dimension. The
> skids also run along the 16' dimension.
>
>
>
> The door (double door with 6' width) can be installed along the 12'
> dimension or the 16' dimension.
>
>
>
> I'm leaning towards putting the door along the 16' dimension as it may 
> mean
> easier access to items in the shed. I'm a bit worried that a door along 
> the
> 12' dimension would result in difficult to access items that are buried in
> the 16' deep shed. Also, the open doors on the 12' side might allow more
> natural light into the shed.
>
>
>
> Where would you put the door?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Wayne
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jniolon at att.net

From gsteve at hammatt.com  Tue May 22 12:23:22 2012
From: gsteve at hammatt.com (Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA)
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 11:23:22 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Software recommendations for website
Message-ID: <24921F26F8DC4C4FA17909D5DF34AFF6@DesktopPC>

I have a small (after retirement) business that I
need to create and maintain a website.  I'm
hoping for an increase in web traffic and want
to easily update and add copy.
http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/extras/car-parts/leather-license-plates/index.s
html
The present software is not very novice friendly
and I'm hoping that with the wealth of knowledge
available within this group there would be some
excellent recommendations for software packages
that have worked for you.  If I can resolve this
issue, then I'll have more time to work in my
shop!
Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA
www.leatherplates.com

From mark at bradakis.com  Tue May 22 16:19:32 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 16:19:32 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Software recommendations for website
In-Reply-To: <24921F26F8DC4C4FA17909D5DF34AFF6@DesktopPC>
References: <24921F26F8DC4C4FA17909D5DF34AFF6@DesktopPC>
Message-ID: <4FBC10F4.10502@bradakis.com>

Like the Leno link.  I, too, am starting to look at updating web
software, but my criteria may be a bit different given that I was
a computer guy for quite some time.   But I really want to do a
better job on Team.Net's web presence, which is currently a mess.

And Team.Net is not a business, though sometimes the guy in charge
does seem like a total idiot, like most managers.  But every now and
then folks do appreciate the work and send in a donation.  That's
always nice.

Anyway, are you looking for something to just do show and tell, so
to speak, or actually want something where folks can make a purchase?

mjb.

From eric at megageek.com  Tue May 22 16:38:52 2012
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 18:38:52 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Software recommendations for website
In-Reply-To: <4FBC10F4.10502@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <OFBB728D69.9CF77340-ON85257A06.007BCDC0-85257A06.007CDD87@mail.megageek.com>

I think this might be exactly what you are looking for...
http://www.joomla.org/ 

Now, not to hijack the thread, but I am also looking for a package that 
can quickly and easily allow for set up and management of a web commerce 
site.  The only hitch I have is that I run my own web server and it is 
running on Lotus (IBM) Domino.  It works with some packages, but not the 
one above.  So if anyone knows any packages that run under a Domino 
server, let me know.

Thanks.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 




Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> 
Sent by: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
05/22/2012 18:13

To
Shop Talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
cc

Subject
Re: [Shop-talk] Software recommendations for website






Like the Leno link.  I, too, am starting to look at updating web
software, but my criteria may be a bit different given that I was
a computer guy for quite some time.   But I really want to do a
better job on Team.Net's web presence, which is currently a mess.

And Team.Net is not a business, though sometimes the guy in charge
does seem like a total idiot, like most managers.  But every now and
then folks do appreciate the work and send in a donation.  That's
always nice.

Anyway, are you looking for something to just do show and tell, so
to speak, or actually want something where folks can make a purchase?

mjb.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
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From mark at bradakis.com  Tue May 22 18:01:37 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 18:01:37 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Software recommendations for website
In-Reply-To: <24921F26F8DC4C4FA17909D5DF34AFF6@DesktopPC>
References: <24921F26F8DC4C4FA17909D5DF34AFF6@DesktopPC>
Message-ID: <4FBC28E1.4020602@bradakis.com>

Another important consideration - how much are you willing to pay?
Download something free or storebought stuff?

mjb.

From gsteve at hammatt.com  Tue May 22 18:33:35 2012
From: gsteve at hammatt.com (Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA)
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 17:33:35 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Software recommendations for website
In-Reply-To: <4FBC28E1.4020602@bradakis.com>
References: <24921F26F8DC4C4FA17909D5DF34AFF6@DesktopPC>
	<4FBC28E1.4020602@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <16503EA91BBF4C5FBB8D409E611C501F@DesktopPC>

Free is good, but willing to pay some $.

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA
-----Original Message----- 
From: Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2012 5:01 PM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Software recommendations for website

Another important consideration - how much are you willing to pay?
Download something free or storebought stuff?

mjb.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/gsteve at hammatt.com




-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2176 / Virus Database: 2425/5015 - Release Date: 05/22/12 

From rustymetal at sbcglobal.net  Tue May 22 19:46:05 2012
From: rustymetal at sbcglobal.net (Frank Vantacich)
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 18:46:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Silverado HD2500 won't start
Message-ID: <1337737565.28622.YahooMailRC@web180909.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

I have a 2003 Chevy Siverado HD2500 durmax diesel truck with 68K that will not
start. It started up first thing this morning and died 10 sec later and hasn't
run since then.  I hooked up a scanner and found no codes, all fuses are good,
I 
opened the air vent on the fuel filter and fuel came out immediately all of
the 
indicators lamps on the dash look normal and the engine turns over good
and 
strong.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 
Frank V.
rustymetal at sbcglobal.net

From greg at gelhar.com  Tue May 22 19:56:56 2012
From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com)
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 21:56:56 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Silverado HD2500 won't start
In-Reply-To: <1337737565.28622.YahooMailRC@web180909.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1337737565.28622.YahooMailRC@web180909.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <169ca8f9bab04da6ccef853db0287911.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com>

> I have a 2003 Chevy Siverado HD2500 durmax diesel truck with 68K that will
> not
> start. It started up first thing this morning and died 10 sec later and
> hasn't
> run since then.  I hooked up a scanner and found no codes, all fuses are
> good,
> I
> opened the air vent on the fuel filter and fuel came out immediately all
> of
> the
> indicators lamps on the dash look normal and the engine turns over good
> and
> strong.
>
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>

Frank,

I once had a similar experience on a 4.3l Vortex engine. After all sorts
of trouble shooting, it turned out the timing chain had jumped. Similar
mileage too.


Greg G.
Osseo, MN

From tvacc at lotusowners.com  Tue May 22 20:26:43 2012
From: tvacc at lotusowners.com (Tony Vaccaro)
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 22:26:43 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Silverado HD2500 won't start
In-Reply-To: <1337737565.28622.YahooMailRC@web180909.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1337737565.28622.YahooMailRC@web180909.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <15a401cd388b$7ea981a0$7bfc84e0$@lotusowners.com>

I also had a 2003 but it was gas. Would not start. Ended up being a loose
wire behind the fuse box. Car kept thinking it was being hot wired
(according to the dealer). Took them 3 weeks to find it.

Tony Vaccaro
Lotus Owners of NY  (LOONY)
www.lotusowners.com
716-861-1412


-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Vantacich
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2012 9:46 PM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] Silverado HD2500 won't start

I have a 2003 Chevy Siverado HD2500 durmax diesel truck with 68K that will
not
start. It started up first thing this morning and died 10 sec later and
hasn't
run since then.  I hooked up a scanner and found no codes, all fuses are
good,
I 
opened the air vent on the fuel filter and fuel came out immediately all of
the 
indicators lamps on the dash look normal and the engine turns over good
and 
strong.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 
Frank V.
rustymetal at sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tvacc at lotusowners.com

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Thu May 24 09:52:19 2012
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Thu, 24 May 2012 11:52:19 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Electronic Edge Detector
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20120524115122.06e759d8@cox.net>

Gang,

I came across this on another list I'm on and thought that it might 
be of interest
to some here.

John

--------------


I have made a YouTube video of my Electronic Edge Finder being used on my
mill. Hopefully the ease of use will be more evident than from my article.

<http://youtu.be/QPi83uIxRM0>http://youtu.be/QPi83uIxRM0

Rick

<mailto:rgsparber%40aol.com>rgsparber at aol.com

rick.sparber.org

-------------------


John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

 From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
      In God We Trust
      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction

From wmc_st at xxiii.com  Thu May 24 12:46:59 2012
From: wmc_st at xxiii.com (Wayne)
Date: Thu, 24 May 2012 14:46:59 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Best paint for concrete block
Message-ID: <4FBE8223.4070202@xxiii.com>

Hi Guys,

My Dad bought a new house recently, with 2 car garage / shop / basement on the lower level.

He wants to paint the concrete block walls for better lighting (reflectivity) and aesthetics. One wall is below grade, but has no signs of any moisture seepage in its 20 years, and the other is above (walk out.)

What's the best kind of paint to use? I am NOT a fan of the "DryLok" stuff, and moisture isn't an issue anyway. Is something like a plain semi-gloss latex a good choice?

-Wayne

From doug at dougbraun.com  Thu May 24 13:11:42 2012
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Thu, 24 May 2012 15:11:42 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Best paint for concrete block
In-Reply-To: <4FBE8223.4070202@xxiii.com>
References: <4FBE8223.4070202@xxiii.com>
Message-ID: <CAOtbU9V=gKhN=LuaHW+Qz+Z9-6tXieWmZL+reQuej_iSxU+iwQ@mail.gmail.com>

I'd love to know, too.  I have some concrete block walls in my garage I'd
love to paint.
I often see painted concrete block walls in schools and other institutional
buildings
where the paint is in perfect shape even after many years.  It always seems
to
be a tough old-school oil-based paint.

Doug

On Thu, May 24, 2012 at 2:46 PM, Wayne <wmc_st at xxiii.com> wrote:

> Hi Guys,
>
> My Dad bought a new house recently, with 2 car garage / shop / basement on
> the lower level.
>
> He wants to paint the concrete block walls for better lighting
> (reflectivity) and aesthetics. One wall is below grade, but has no signs of
> any moisture seepage in its 20 years, and the other is above (walk out.)
>
> What's the best kind of paint to use? I am NOT a fan of the "DryLok"
> stuff, and moisture isn't an issue anyway. Is something like a plain
> semi-gloss latex a good choice?
>
> -Wayne
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/shop-talk/doug@**dougbraun.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug at dougbraun.com>

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Thu May 24 14:14:52 2012
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Thu, 24 May 2012 15:14:52 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Best paint for concrete block
In-Reply-To: <4FBE8223.4070202@xxiii.com>
References: <4FBE8223.4070202@xxiii.com>
Message-ID: <F81DDBB9-E47B-4375-83D4-54C356BF17AC@gmail.com>

On May 24, 2012, at 1:46 PM, Wayne <wmc_st at xxiii.com> wrote:

>
>
> What's the best kind of paint to use? I am NOT a fan of the "DryLok" stuff,
and moisture isn't an issue anyway. Is something like a plain semi-gloss latex
a good choice?
>

No.  It's not. After you've thoroughly washed the walls and allowed to dry,
use a primer specially designed for concrete. Then you paint. Best results
will come from using a tip coat that matches the primer.  Pay attention to the
directions, some systems want you to wait between coats.


> -Wayne
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dmscheidt at gmail.com

From eric at megageek.com  Thu May 24 15:29:36 2012
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Thu, 24 May 2012 17:29:36 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Best paint for concrete block
In-Reply-To: <4FBE8223.4070202@xxiii.com>
Message-ID: <OFDF3B5706.59F4338C-ON85257A08.0075889A-85257A08.0076900D@mail.megageek.com>

About 12  years ago I painted the exterior of my concrete block buildings 
with HD Bear exterior latex paint.  I did prime it with a primer for 
concrete block first (I don't know the brand or name, it was recommended 
by the guy at HD.)

I applied 1 coat of primer, and 2 coats of paint with a paint sprayer.  It 
still looks good today.

I would imagine that no matter what paint you go with, make sure you clean 
AND PRIME the block first.  That would be the most productive way to do 
it.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 




Wayne <wmc_st at xxiii.com> 
Sent by: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
05/24/2012 14:42

To
Shop Talk List <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
cc

Subject
[Shop-talk] Best paint for concrete block






Hi Guys,

My Dad bought a new house recently, with 2 car garage / shop / basement on 
the lower level.

He wants to paint the concrete block walls for better lighting 
(reflectivity) and aesthetics. One wall is below grade, but has no signs 
of any moisture seepage in its 20 years, and the other is above (walk 
out.)

What's the best kind of paint to use? I am NOT a fan of the "DryLok" 
stuff, and moisture isn't an issue anyway. Is something like a plain 
semi-gloss latex a good choice?

-Wayne
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eric at megageek.com

From bk13 at earthlink.net  Thu May 24 22:07:56 2012
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (bk13)
Date: Thu, 24 May 2012 21:07:56 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Best paint for concrete block
Message-ID: <367711.1337918876590.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Wayne - I painted my old house - stucco and poured concrete foundation - with BEHR Interior/Exterior Masonry, Stucco and Brick Paint.  It worked well and still looked good 9 years later when we sold the house.  I sprayed it undiluted with a Wagner Power Painter.

Brian

-----Original Message-----
>From: Wayne <wmc_st at xxiii.com>
>Sent: May 24, 2012 11:46 AM
>To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
>Subject: [Shop-talk] Best paint for concrete block
>
>Hi Guys,
>
>My Dad bought a new house recently, with 2 car garage / shop / basement on the lower level.
>
>He wants to paint the concrete block walls for better lighting (reflectivity) and aesthetics. One wall is below grade, but has no signs of any moisture seepage in its 20 years, and the other is above (walk out.)
>
>What's the best kind of paint to use? I am NOT a fan of the "DryLok" stuff, and moisture isn't an issue anyway. Is something like a plain semi-gloss latex a good choice?
>
>-Wayne
>_______________________________________________
>
>Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net

From doug at dougbraun.com  Fri May 25 20:15:04 2012
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Fri, 25 May 2012 22:15:04 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] [Spits] master brake
In-Reply-To: <856807F27C704C3A983F4CC9F5B3AE78@ranteer.local>
References: <856807F27C704C3A983F4CC9F5B3AE78@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <CAOtbU9VJ1Qq_K4qeji09_W+yu-+Oj1ioO7TyE40gyOgFpDqj_A@mail.gmail.com>

The seal is sort of dodgy: A flat part of the metal M/C presses against a
flat part of the plastic reservoir, and there is a
flat rubber washer between them.  Given how much a new one costs, I would
try some sort of sealant like hylomar or silicone
first.

Doug

On Fri, May 25, 2012 at 9:18 PM, Dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

> I believe the master brake reservoir is leaking between the plastic and the
> metal.  can I take it apart and put in a gasket or something?  or should I
> replace/rebuild the whole assembly?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/doug at dougbraun.com

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May 25 21:21:24 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 25 May 2012 20:21:24 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] [Spits] master brake
In-Reply-To: <CAOtbU9VJ1Qq_K4qeji09_W+yu-+Oj1ioO7TyE40gyOgFpDqj_A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <856807F27C704C3A983F4CC9F5B3AE78@ranteer.local>
	<CAOtbU9VJ1Qq_K4qeji09_W+yu-+Oj1ioO7TyE40gyOgFpDqj_A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <022201cd3aee$a1e09590$0601a8c0@randall>

> A flat part of the metal M/C 
> presses against a
> flat part of the plastic reservoir, and there is a
> flat rubber washer between them.

That sounds very similar to my Stags.  The plastic reservoir had apparently
warped until it no longer pressed firmly against the seal, so I carefully
sanded it back flat, cleaned and reassembled.  Worked great for me.

I'm probably paranoid, but I won't use any sort of sealant on brake
fittings.  Hylomar uses a solvent that is likely not good for brake seals.
I don't know what modern "sensor safe" silicone RTVs emit, but I'll bet
there is something.

-- Randall  

From bk13 at earthlink.net  Sat May 26 10:43:25 2012
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (bk13)
Date: Sat, 26 May 2012 12:43:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] [Spits] master brake
Message-ID: <29784161.1338050605347.JavaMail.root@elwamui-cypress.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Dave - I am assuming the Spit is like the TR6 and GT6.  Make sure you have the washers under the screw heads or consider adding an extra washer.  In my case, the screws were bottoming out in the threaded inserts in the plastic reservoir.  Also, make sure someone didn't over torque the screws and pull out the inserts.  You may want to put the reservoir on the M/C without the rubber washer and look and see that they go together flatly.  If so, they reassemble with the washers.  Note that if you over tighten the screws, you will deform the reservoir and have leakage at the middle of the seals.

Brian with a 72 TR6 and 73 GT6


-----Original Message-----
>From: Doug Braun <doug at dougbraun.com>
>Sent: May 25, 2012 7:15 PM
>To: Dave <dave at ranteer.com>, Shop-Talk <Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] [Spits] master brake
>
>The seal is sort of dodgy: A flat part of the metal M/C presses against a
>flat part of the plastic reservoir, and there is a
>flat rubber washer between them.  Given how much a new one costs, I would
>try some sort of sealant like hylomar or silicone
>first.
>
>Doug
>
>On Fri, May 25, 2012 at 9:18 PM, Dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
>
>> I believe the master brake reservoir is leaking between the plastic and the
>> metal.  can I take it apart and put in a gasket or something?  or should I
>> replace/rebuild the whole assembly?
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Spitfires at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/doug at dougbraun.com
>_______________________________________________
>
>Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net

From jamesf at groupwbench.org  Sun May 27 12:09:32 2012
From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin)
Date: Sun, 27 May 2012 14:09:32 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Putting floor in attic - can't fit 4x8 sheets
Message-ID: <85F438BC-2F25-440F-B765-5DCC14738523@groupwbench.org>

The way the house is constructed I can't get a 4x8 sheet into the attic. I can
do a 4x4 and with some effort a 2x8, but none of those are t&g.

Any options out there besides using some kind of Simpson Tie in place of the
t&g edge support?

thanks,

From darrellw360 at mac.com  Sun May 27 12:12:45 2012
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Sun, 27 May 2012 11:12:45 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Putting floor in attic - can't fit 4x8 sheets
In-Reply-To: <85F438BC-2F25-440F-B765-5DCC14738523@groupwbench.org>
References: <85F438BC-2F25-440F-B765-5DCC14738523@groupwbench.org>
Message-ID: <3F827496-C10E-4FB3-AC5D-5C488478E4FD@mac.com>

On May 27, 2012, at 11:09 AM, Jim Franklin wrote:

> The way the house is constructed I can't get a 4x8 sheet into the attic. I can
> do a 4x4 and with some effort a 2x8, but none of those are t&g.

Sounds like an opportunity for a new tool!

-Darrell

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Sun May 27 12:13:50 2012
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Sun, 27 May 2012 14:13:50 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Putting floor in attic - can't fit 4x8 sheets
In-Reply-To: <85F438BC-2F25-440F-B765-5DCC14738523@groupwbench.org>
References: <85F438BC-2F25-440F-B765-5DCC14738523@groupwbench.org>
Message-ID: <0D57C5AD00664BE796A6B1B862691B78@EricJRussellPC>

Do you have a biscuit joiner? If not you now have a reason to own a biscuit 
joiner.

Or glue/screw a backing piece under the unsupported areas.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Franklin" <jamesf at groupwbench.org>
To: "shop-talk List" <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2012 2:09 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] Putting floor in attic - can't fit 4x8 sheets


> The way the house is constructed I can't get a 4x8 sheet into the attic. I 
> can
> do a 4x4 and with some effort a 2x8, but none of those are t&g.
>
> Any options out there besides using some kind of Simpson Tie in place of 
> the
> t&g edge support?

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Sun May 27 13:43:28 2012
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Sun, 27 May 2012 15:43:28 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Putting floor in attic - can't fit 4x8 sheets
In-Reply-To: <85F438BC-2F25-440F-B765-5DCC14738523@groupwbench.org>
References: <85F438BC-2F25-440F-B765-5DCC14738523@groupwbench.org>
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20120527154027.04d5da50@cox.net>

At 02:09 PM 5/27/2012, Jim Franklin wrote:

 >The way the house is constructed I can't get a 4x8 sheet into the 
attic. I can
 >do a 4x4 and with some effort a 2x8, but none of those are t&g.

 >Any options out there besides using some kind of Simpson Tie in place of the
 >t&g edge support?

Jim,

I'm not sure if you are planning on making this a finished area or 
not.  But I just
finished doing the same thing and had the same problem.  The access would
only allow a 2'x8' piece of plywood up into the attic.  So that's 
what I did.  But
I didn't plan on using toung & grove to start with.  I just butted 
the plywood piece
up the best I could.  This is raw, and only for walking and possible 
storage.  So
the fact that the pieces are "fit" together is no big deal.  I'll 
send you a zip file
of pictures of the job off-list.

John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

 From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
      In God We Trust
      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction

From bolin at mwt.net  Sun May 27 14:39:17 2012
From: bolin at mwt.net (Bob Jeffers)
Date: Sun, 27 May 2012 15:39:17 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Putting floor in attic - can't fit 4x8 sheets
In-Reply-To: <85F438BC-2F25-440F-B765-5DCC14738523@groupwbench.org>
References: <85F438BC-2F25-440F-B765-5DCC14738523@groupwbench.org>
Message-ID: <16DCFD73795741F8BC2B3340474B261E@BobPC>

I would just put a board floor in laying the boards diagonal. Then if you 
want to finish the floor later on or when ever just get the 1/4 inch plywood 
and fasten it on top of the boards and then you will never have a loose or 
sagging  joint.

Bob


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Franklin" <jamesf at groupwbench.org>
To: "shop-talk List" <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2012 1:09 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] Putting floor in attic - can't fit 4x8 sheets


> The way the house is constructed I can't get a 4x8 sheet into the attic. I 
> can
> do a 4x4 and with some effort a 2x8, but none of those are t&g.
>
> Any options out there besides using some kind of Simpson Tie in place of 
> the
> t&g edge support?
>
> thanks,
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bolin at mwt.net

From bjshov8 at tx.rr.com  Sun May 27 22:02:10 2012
From: bjshov8 at tx.rr.com (BJNoSHOV8)
Date: Sun, 27 May 2012 23:02:10 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Putting floor in attic - can't fit 4x8 sheets
In-Reply-To: <85F438BC-2F25-440F-B765-5DCC14738523@groupwbench.org>
References: <85F438BC-2F25-440F-B765-5DCC14738523@groupwbench.org>
Message-ID: <4FC2F8C2.8040607@tx.rr.com>

What spans do you have between joists, what thickness of plywood were 
you planning, and what type of use are you planning for the floor?

At first I was wondering why you would need T&G, but the answers to the 
questions above would help to define that.  And then I thought that if 
you really wanted T&G you could just set up a router and after ripping 
the plywood to 2' widths you could add your own T&G.

> The way the house is constructed I can't get a 4x8 sheet into the attic. I can
> do a 4x4 and with some effort a 2x8, but none of those are t&g.
>
> Any options out there besides using some kind of Simpson Tie in place of the
> t&g edge support?

From shannahquilts at gmail.com  Sun May 27 22:40:07 2012
From: shannahquilts at gmail.com (Shannah Miller)
Date: Sun, 27 May 2012 21:40:07 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Putting floor in attic - can't fit 4x8 sheets
In-Reply-To: <4FC2F8C2.8040607@tx.rr.com>
References: <85F438BC-2F25-440F-B765-5DCC14738523@groupwbench.org>
	<4FC2F8C2.8040607@tx.rr.com>
Message-ID: <CAAy7z=1ZOhUDzv9Z8sABPrDk108zwJ-p5vGJuwLVT+XkeLj3gA@mail.gmail.com>

Yeah, I totally agree: if you really want T&G, routing your own seems
like a reasonable idea, especially if you can dedicate a router to this
job for the duration.

On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:02 PM, BJNoSHOV8 <bjshov8 at tx.rr.com> wrote:
> What spans do you have between joists, what thickness of plywood were you
> planning, and what type of use are you planning for the floor?
>
> At first I was wondering why you would need T&G, but the answers to the
> questions above would help to define that.  And then I thought that if you
> really wanted T&G you could just set up a router and after ripping the
> plywood to 2' widths you could add your own T&G.
>
>
>> The way the house is constructed I can't get a 4x8 sheet into the attic. I
>> can
>> do a 4x4 and with some effort a 2x8, but none of those are t&g.
>>
>> Any options out there besides using some kind of Simpson Tie in place of
>> the
>> t&g edge support?
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shannahquilts at gmail.com

From jamesf at groupwbench.org  Mon May 28 05:50:42 2012
From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin)
Date: Mon, 28 May 2012 07:50:42 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Putting floor in attic - can't fit 4x8 sheets
In-Reply-To: <4FC2F8C2.8040607@tx.rr.com>
References: <85F438BC-2F25-440F-B765-5DCC14738523@groupwbench.org>
	<4FC2F8C2.8040607@tx.rr.com>
Message-ID: <7A4623FE-43D7-4D6E-B54F-34FDF68FE482@groupwbench.org>

16oc spans, 5/8 or 3/4 plywood/osb, storage of "stuff" i.e. dead loads.

I like t&g so I know I'm not going to overload an edge accidentally, or if the
next owner wants to use it for live loads and won't curse me like I'm cursing
the PO for using 1/2" and 3/8"). But not enough to buy a router and set up a
table to route all these boards :-)

The blocking ideas would work but there's insulation in the way.

Sounds like butt edges will be good enough!

jim

On May 28, 2012, at 12:02 AM, BJNoSHOV8 wrote:

> What spans do you have between joists, what thickness of plywood were you
planning, and what type of use are you planning for the floor?
>
> At first I was wondering why you would need T&G, but the answers to the
questions above would help to define that.  And then I thought that if you
really wanted T&G you could just set up a router and after ripping the plywood
to 2' widths you could add your own T&G.
>
>> The way the house is constructed I can't get a 4x8 sheet into the attic. I
can
>> do a 4x4 and with some effort a 2x8, but none of those are t&g.
>>
>> Any options out there besides using some kind of Simpson Tie in place of
the
>> t&g edge support?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf at groupwbench.org

From doug at dougbraun.com  Mon May 28 06:31:33 2012
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Mon, 28 May 2012 08:31:33 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Putting floor in attic - can't fit 4x8 sheets
In-Reply-To: <7A4623FE-43D7-4D6E-B54F-34FDF68FE482@groupwbench.org>
References: <85F438BC-2F25-440F-B765-5DCC14738523@groupwbench.org>
	<4FC2F8C2.8040607@tx.rr.com>
	<7A4623FE-43D7-4D6E-B54F-34FDF68FE482@groupwbench.org>
Message-ID: <CAOtbU9UhxyUrtktF9X-9jkF6PwyZ-qLwVwYY3C_p9cGg=_oRtw@mail.gmail.com>

Can a lumber yard order old-style tongue-and-groove flooring?

Doug

From fishplate at gmail.com  Mon May 28 07:19:00 2012
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Mon, 28 May 2012 09:19:00 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Putting floor in attic - can't fit 4x8 sheets
In-Reply-To: <CAOtbU9UhxyUrtktF9X-9jkF6PwyZ-qLwVwYY3C_p9cGg=_oRtw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <85F438BC-2F25-440F-B765-5DCC14738523@groupwbench.org>
	<4FC2F8C2.8040607@tx.rr.com>
	<7A4623FE-43D7-4D6E-B54F-34FDF68FE482@groupwbench.org>
	<CAOtbU9UhxyUrtktF9X-9jkF6PwyZ-qLwVwYY3C_p9cGg=_oRtw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CO+U4yi+kXSYUWGGDg_yFnL8BxJRsJvdcftfH2bhiTAQg@mail.gmail.com>

On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:31 AM, Doug Braun <doug at dougbraun.com> wrote:
> Can a lumber yard order old-style tongue-and-groove flooring?

I thought I had seen once a plywood attic floor panel that was made to
go through a small access hole.  But I found this:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=100482715
which seems interesting.

Another site mentioned 1x6 #3 spruce boards as a good alternative to plywood....

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Mon May 28 07:50:34 2012
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Mon, 28 May 2012 09:50:34 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Putting floor in attic - can't fit 4x8 sheets
In-Reply-To: <7A4623FE-43D7-4D6E-B54F-34FDF68FE482@groupwbench.org>
References: <85F438BC-2F25-440F-B765-5DCC14738523@groupwbench.org>
	<4FC2F8C2.8040607@tx.rr.com>
	<7A4623FE-43D7-4D6E-B54F-34FDF68FE482@groupwbench.org>
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20120528094613.04f40680@cox.net>

At 07:50 AM 5/28/2012, Jim Franklin wrote:

 >16oc spans, 5/8 or 3/4 plywood/osb, storage of "stuff" i.e. dead loads.

 >I like t&g so I know I'm not going to overload an edge 
accidentally, or if the
 >next owner wants to use it for live loads and won't curse me like I'm cursing
 >the PO for using 1/2" and 3/8"). But not enough to buy a router and set up a
 >table to route all these boards :-)

Well I had 1/2" plywood wasn't happy with it, too flimsy.  Felt like 
I was going to
fall through.  So I just set another piece of 1/2" plywood or press 
board on top.
That helped by I still didn't like it, and I wasn't covering as much 
of the area as
I wanted.

So in March the wife and I pulled all the junk out of the attic, then 
started removing
some of the old decking and replacing it with 3/4" plywood.  Turned 
out pretty nice.
Now all we have to do is go through all the junk we took out of the 
attic, and throw
a bunch of it away.  What's left goes back into the attic.  But that 
will have to wait until
it cools off.

John
John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

 From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
      In God We Trust
      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction

From wmc_st at xxiii.com  Mon May 28 08:09:18 2012
From: wmc_st at xxiii.com (Wayne)
Date: Mon, 28 May 2012 10:09:18 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Putting floor in attic - can't fit 4x8 sheets
In-Reply-To: <7A4623FE-43D7-4D6E-B54F-34FDF68FE482@groupwbench.org>
References: <85F438BC-2F25-440F-B765-5DCC14738523@groupwbench.org>
	<4FC2F8C2.8040607@tx.rr.com>
	<7A4623FE-43D7-4D6E-B54F-34FDF68FE482@groupwbench.org>
Message-ID: <4FC3870E.6000608@xxiii.com>

On 5/28/2012 7:50 AM, Jim Franklin wrote:
> The blocking ideas would work but there's insulation in the way.

Was wondering about the insulation issue myself.  Room mate & I had a 
rental house 20 years ago -- we wanted storage, but had limited space 
between the roof truss beams, and lots of blown in fiberglass we didn't 
want to compromise. And a lease that said we weren't allow to make 
modifications to the structure.

We nailed or screwed 2x6es across the trusses above the insulation 
level, then used 2x8' plywood, as you suggested. Was probably about 8x16 
feet finished. It was just for storage, so it was ok there was a little 
flex between panels.

They make those metal "H" clips for roof sheathing - would those work 
for you?

-Wayne

From eric at megageek.com  Mon May 28 08:17:11 2012
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Mon, 28 May 2012 10:17:11 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Repairing a fiberglass maul handle
Message-ID: <OF82E3F4B5.A2AFD114-ON85257A0C.004E375D-85257A0C.004EF959@mail.megageek.com>

OK, I bought a HD maul with a fiberglass handle.  I've used it for over 20 
cords of wood already in the past 2 years.  Here is a link to it on their 
site...

>
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100387771/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=maul&storeId=10051 
<

As the reviews will tell you, they separate at the top.  Now, its not 
really broken, just separated.  Does anyone know of any kind of epoxy that 
I could use on it?

The fit is still good, in fact I split about another 1/8 of a cord after 
it broke yesterday just by putting it back on after every 4th or 5th log.

Any ideas?  TIA

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May 28 08:26:43 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 28 May 2012 07:26:43 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Putting floor in attic - can't fit 4x8 sheets
In-Reply-To: <85F438BC-2F25-440F-B765-5DCC14738523@groupwbench.org>
References: <85F438BC-2F25-440F-B765-5DCC14738523@groupwbench.org>
Message-ID: <047201cd3cdd$e821f170$0601a8c0@randall>

> Any options out there besides using some kind of Simpson Tie 
> in place of the
> t&g edge support?

How about ripping the 4x8 sheets to match your beam spacing (eg 16") and
then using a 2x4 stringer every 8' to support the edges?  That's basically
what I've been doing, although I'm lucky enough to be able to get a 32" by
8' piece in (so I only need to rip each sheet once).

Even T&G is pretty weak for using without a subfloor IMO, unless you've gone
overboard on the floor thickness.

-- Randall  

From bk13 at earthlink.net  Mon May 28 10:52:22 2012
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Mon, 28 May 2012 09:52:22 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Attic storage - track and platform system
Message-ID: <4FC3AD46.6070006@earthlink.net>

The talk about attic storage has me again wondering about a track and 
platform system - think railroad.  Has anyone made or seen a track that 
could move 2' x 4' plywood platforms without too much resistance?  
Something like this would allow me to access most of the seasonal stuff 
I occasionally need without having to climb in the attic.  My lower 
pitched California roof also means I have to crawl everywhere up in the 
attic.

My initial thought was four fixed castors at each end of the platform.  
Two vertical to carry the load and two horizontal to ride between the 
rails and keep the platform on track.  The track would probably be 2x4's 
across the joists and a double layer of 3/4" plywood cut for the 
corners.  I'm not sure what the radius would need to be, but I would 
like at least part of an oval.  I probably could not move cars that made 
a full oval.

The cars would be joined with a 1x2" of enough length that the cars 
wouldn't touch on the corners.

I also had a thought to use plastic pipe for the track - conduit, ABS, 
or PVC cut in half to form a channel with only the vertical wheels.

My goal here is to have a system that is easy to get in and once in, 
means I don't have to climb up in the attic and crawl around.

Any been there, done that is appreciated.

Thanks,

Brian

From jdinnis at gmail.com  Mon May 28 11:51:02 2012
From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis)
Date: Mon, 28 May 2012 12:51:02 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Attic storage - track and platform system
In-Reply-To: <4FC3AD46.6070006@earthlink.net>
References: <4FC3AD46.6070006@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <CANuE7YDbrKf7FOv2GcewK8d5wiKjXcSfGOd09EJ=Pr5jyoP9Sw@mail.gmail.com>

Not sure how it would work in your application (radiused corners), but I
have seen something similar done with overhead door tracks.  They were only
used for straight sections, and for light loads ( think the most we ever
had on a "platform" was 50#), but they worked great.  If that is not going
to work for you I have also seen on TV where guys have made the same type
of thing out of angle iron and castors.  Kinda like you described, they had
one castor riding on the horizontal part of the angle to take the weight,
and on the vertical to "steer".    Much more weight capacity, but harder to
work with when cutting and "bending" the "track".  It looked like they cut
the angle at about 30 degree angles and welded it together in short
sections to make curves.  The radius would probably depend on how long your
platforms were.  I seem to recall from my model railroad days that longer
platforms require wider radius turns, or the ability for the axles to pivot
with respect to the platform, like the trucks of a rail car.

On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 11:52 AM, Brian Kemp <bk13 at earthlink.net> wrote:

> The talk about attic storage has me again wondering about a track and
> platform system - think railroad.  Has anyone made or seen a track that
> could move 2' x 4' plywood platforms without too much resistance?
>  Something like this would allow me to access most of the seasonal stuff I
> occasionally need without having to climb in the attic.  My lower pitched
> California roof also means I have to crawl everywhere up in the attic.
>
> My initial thought was four fixed castors at each end of the platform.
>  Two vertical to carry the load and two horizontal to ride between the
> rails and keep the platform on track.  The track would probably be 2x4's
> across the joists and a double layer of 3/4" plywood cut for the corners.
>  I'm not sure what the radius would need to be, but I would like at least
> part of an oval.  I probably could not move cars that made a full oval.
>
> The cars would be joined with a 1x2" of enough length that the cars
> wouldn't touch on the corners.
>
> I also had a thought to use plastic pipe for the track - conduit, ABS, or
> PVC cut in half to form a channel with only the vertical wheels.
>
> My goal here is to have a system that is easy to get in and once in, means
> I don't have to climb up in the attic and crawl around.
>
> Any been there, done that is appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/shop-talk/jdinnis@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com>
>
>


-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================

From mistertwo at sbcglobal.net  Mon May 28 12:10:54 2012
From: mistertwo at sbcglobal.net (Rand E)
Date: Mon, 28 May 2012 11:10:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Attic storage - track and platform system
In-Reply-To: <CANuE7YDbrKf7FOv2GcewK8d5wiKjXcSfGOd09EJ=Pr5jyoP9Sw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4FC3AD46.6070006@earthlink.net>
	<CANuE7YDbrKf7FOv2GcewK8d5wiKjXcSfGOd09EJ=Pr5jyoP9Sw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1338228654.44749.YahooMailNeo@web184718.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

How about something like the old-time cars at Six Flags or Worlds of Fun. 
They have a single beam run down the center of the course and under the car
there is a bumper several inches to either side that slides along the beam. 
The wheels are out at the corners for support but the distance between the
bumper and the beam allows the driver to have some input where the car goes
but still keep the car from running off the track area.  
 
Randy    

From tputland at charter.net  Mon May 28 14:02:24 2012
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Mon, 28 May 2012 16:02:24 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Repairing a fiberglass maul handle
Message-ID: <4a4e7988.2689c4.137950ad7d4.Webtop.44@charter.net>

JB Weld?


On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 9:17 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote:

> OK, I bought a HD maul with a fiberglass handle.  I've used it for 
> over 20 cords of wood already in the past 2 years.  Here is a link to 
> it on their site...
>
>>
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100387771/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=maul&storeId=10051 
> <
>
> As the reviews will tell you, they separate at the top.  Now, its not 
> really broken, just separated.  Does anyone know of any kind of epoxy 
> that I could use on it?
>
> The fit is still good, in fact I split about another 1/8 of a cord 
> after it broke yesterday just by putting it back on after every 4th or 
> 5th log.
>
> Any ideas?  TIA
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a 
> rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your 
> territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson 
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tputland at charter.net

From jibjib at att.net  Mon May 28 16:34:20 2012
From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks)
Date: Mon, 28 May 2012 15:34:20 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Repairing a fiberglass maul handle
In-Reply-To: <4a4e7988.2689c4.137950ad7d4.Webtop.44@charter.net>
References: <4a4e7988.2689c4.137950ad7d4.Webtop.44@charter.net>
Message-ID: <E11D571377184437A2711B0710BD5E48@EntCentPC>

Slow cure marine epoxy.  You want slow cure because it'll cure stronger and
you want a flexible epoxy, or it'll break again.

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tim
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2012 1:02 PM
To: eric at megageek.com
Cc: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Repairing a fiberglass maul handle

JB Weld?


On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 9:17 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote:

> OK, I bought a HD maul with a fiberglass handle.  I've used it for 
> over 20 cords of wood already in the past 2 years.  Here is a link to 
> it on their site...
>
>>
> 
>
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100387771/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalo
gId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=maul&storeId=10051 
> <
>
> As the reviews will tell you, they separate at the top.  Now, its not 
> really broken, just separated.  Does anyone know of any kind of epoxy 
> that I could use on it?
>
> The fit is still good, in fact I split about another 1/8 of a cord 
> after it broke yesterday just by putting it back on after every 4th or 
> 5th log.
>
> Any ideas?  TIA
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a 
> rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your 
> territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson 
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tputland at charter.net
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From pj_thomas at comcast.net  Mon May 28 19:52:31 2012
From: pj_thomas at comcast.net (Peter J. Thomas)
Date: Mon, 28 May 2012 21:52:31 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Putting floor in attic - can't fit 4x8 sheets
In-Reply-To: <7A4623FE-43D7-4D6E-B54F-34FDF68FE482@groupwbench.org>
References: <85F438BC-2F25-440F-B765-5DCC14738523@groupwbench.org>
	<4FC2F8C2.8040607@tx.rr.com>
	<7A4623FE-43D7-4D6E-B54F-34FDF68FE482@groupwbench.org>
Message-ID: <4FC42BDF.2070702@comcast.net>

On 5/28/2012 7:50 AM, Jim Franklin wrote:
> 16oc spans, 5/8 or 3/4 plywood/osb, storage of "stuff" i.e. dead loads.
>
> I like t&g so I know I'm not going to overload an edge accidentally, or if the
> next owner wants to use it for live loads and won't curse me like I'm cursing
> the PO for using 1/2" and 3/8"). But not enough to buy a router and set up a
> table to route all these boards :-)
>
> The blocking ideas would work but there's insulation in the way.
>
> Sounds like butt edges will be good enough!
If you can get 4'x4' sheets up there, then cutting T&G 4x8 sheets in 
half is what I would do.  Reassemble the two 4x4 into a 4x8 sheet with 
the cut over a joist where you really don't need the T&G. This way you 
still  have T&G joints perpendicular to the joists.  Also stagger the 
sheets so the cuts on the same joist.  Usually with 4x8 you stagger the 
each sheet by 4 feet; start row with a full sheet and the next row with 
a half sheet.  In your case I would stagger the second row by only 16" 
and the third row by 32"

Peter T.
>
> jim
>
> On May 28, 2012, at 12:02 AM, BJNoSHOV8 wrote:
>
>> What spans do you have between joists, what thickness of plywood were you
> planning, and what type of use are you planning for the floor?
>> At first I was wondering why you would need T&G, but the answers to the
> questions above would help to define that.  And then I thought that if you
> really wanted T&G you could just set up a router and after ripping the plywood
> to 2' widths you could add your own T&G.
>>> The way the house is constructed I can't get a 4x8 sheet into the attic. I
> can
>>> do a 4x4 and with some effort a 2x8, but none of those are t&g.
>>>
>>> Any options out there besides using some kind of Simpson Tie in place of
> the
>>> t&g edge support?
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf at groupwbench.org
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_thomas at comcast.net

From ronnie.day at gmail.com  Wed May 30 08:33:25 2012
From: ronnie.day at gmail.com (Ronnie Day)
Date: Wed, 30 May 2012 09:33:25 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Workmate leg pad replacements
Message-ID: <CAMHhs6fWyupRgMNut9t0GF2+4NtoDJf1JwyACOZnfiJSop22Xw@mail.gmail.com>

I've got an old Workmate (model 79-001, I think) that I need replacement
rubber "feet" for. I've not been able to find OEM replacements, Black &
Decker part # 975959. Basically these are rectangular rubber feet 1" x 1
3/8" x maybe 2" tall.

Any suggestions regarding Non OEM replacements, or rolling my own?

TIA,
Ron

From lee at automate-it.com  Wed May 30 08:51:57 2012
From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels)
Date: Wed, 30 May 2012 09:51:57 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Workmate leg pad replacements
In-Reply-To: <CAMHhs6fWyupRgMNut9t0GF2+4NtoDJf1JwyACOZnfiJSop22Xw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMHhs6fWyupRgMNut9t0GF2+4NtoDJf1JwyACOZnfiJSop22Xw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3f2196d8ede201abec596e0fb4f09b07.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>

There seem to be several different models that were actually called "79-001".
This place has parts:
  http://goo.gl/v0Q0V
but you may need to look carefully at the drawings/photos to figure out if
they have the right one for you.
 - Lee

> I've got an old Workmate (model 79-001, I think) that I need replacement
> rubber "feet" for. I've not been able to find OEM replacements, Black &
> Decker part # 975959. Basically these are rectangular rubber feet 1" x 1
> 3/8" x maybe 2" tall.

From wmc_st at xxiii.com  Wed May 30 13:01:25 2012
From: wmc_st at xxiii.com (Wayne)
Date: Wed, 30 May 2012 15:01:25 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Workmate leg pad replacements
In-Reply-To: <CAMHhs6fWyupRgMNut9t0GF2+4NtoDJf1JwyACOZnfiJSop22Xw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMHhs6fWyupRgMNut9t0GF2+4NtoDJf1JwyACOZnfiJSop22Xw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4FC66E85.9090106@xxiii.com>

"You can get [pretty much] anything you want" at McMasterCarr
http://www.mcmaster.com/


On 5/30/2012 10:33 AM, Ronnie Day wrote:
> I've got an old Workmate (model 79-001, I think) that I need replacement
> rubber "feet" for. I've not been able to find OEM replacements, Black&
> Decker part # 975959. Basically these are rectangular rubber feet 1" x 1
> 3/8" x maybe 2" tall.

From nick at landform.co.uk  Wed May 30 13:49:04 2012
From: nick at landform.co.uk (nick brearley)
Date: Wed, 30 May 2012 20:49:04 +0100
Subject: [Shop-talk] Workmate leg pad replacements
In-Reply-To: <CAMHhs6fWyupRgMNut9t0GF2+4NtoDJf1JwyACOZnfiJSop22Xw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMHhs6fWyupRgMNut9t0GF2+4NtoDJf1JwyACOZnfiJSop22Xw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4FC679B0.1030906@landform.co.uk>

Ronnie Day wrote:
> I've got an old Workmate (model 79-001, I think) that I need replacement
> rubber "feet" for. I've not been able to find OEM replacements, Black&
> Decker part # 975959. Basically these are rectangular rubber feet 1" x 1
> 3/8" x maybe 2" tall.
>
> Any suggestions regarding Non OEM replacements, or rolling my own?
>
>
Here's a number of parts drawings that might give some pointers:

http://tinyurl.com/6ngon7j

I bought a foot from them earlier in the year. Bit slow but can't 
quibble with the price. Don't know if they do international sales...

Nick Brearley

From jniolon at att.net  Wed May 30 17:12:55 2012
From: jniolon at att.net (John Niolon)
Date: Wed, 30 May 2012 18:12:55 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] car hauler tralier advise.
Message-ID: <E9C7ED990EF74961A60616BDD2B733D1@john5043a2d406>

   Well, my Bobcat 250 welder/trailer is on the sale block and as soon as it
has a lucky new owner my search for a open car hauler will begin.  Well,
actually I'm looking now but lack of funds takes a lot of the fun out of it..

I see lots of options and I'm sure it depends on what you're gonna haul, how
far and how much $$$ you have

My tow vehicle is a 2008 Suburban with a 5.3 L Vortec.   It has the towing
package and the recommended GVW is 8100 #.

My towed vehicle will be a '53 F-100 ford pickup... with a curb weight of 3500
to 3800 pounds.

I see lots of different designs   channel, tube, but the most seem to be
channel frame in either 4" or 5" or 6" and either 3500" axles or 5K axles with
either 1 or 2 axle brakes... some with breakaway setup some without...
aluminum would be sweet but out of the budget...by the way budget would be
2500 or less.... or a little more if I found an excellent buy (like a trailer
worth 4K for 2800.  Oh wait... that's the other guys deal, not mine.

I want slide in ramps, perferably rear entry to cut down on the carrying them
around ...  I'm favoring D-rings over stake pockets cause I want to use wheel
type tiedowns...  but that is something I can add myself and is no deal
breaker...

all the rest will be optional... I have a winch I can add on if needed
although I plan on driving it on.  Removable fender would be nice but nothing
that can't be fabricated if needed.  Steel deck is my favorite just from a
maintenance standpoint.. and weight. all of the above is  depending on $$$ and
availability.   So I'm looking for suggestions, ideas, warnings, brand
recommendations..etc...  educate me on car haulers

oh, and ask me about my welder/trailer if you're interested..

thanks
John





I'm sarcastic... what's your superpower ?

From jdinnis at gmail.com  Wed May 30 19:06:39 2012
From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis)
Date: Wed, 30 May 2012 20:06:39 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] car hauler tralier advise.
In-Reply-To: <E9C7ED990EF74961A60616BDD2B733D1@john5043a2d406>
References: <E9C7ED990EF74961A60616BDD2B733D1@john5043a2d406>
Message-ID: <CANuE7YBT9aS6GS5VZq8p5Xo4g21VGjO7P7poxVPwGuU70x-wqw@mail.gmail.com>

I bought a Dressen 16' steel car hauler new about 10 years ago.  It is made
from 4" channel with 4" angle welded to the top and 4" channel cross
members.  It has 1x8 solid wood decking.  I was worried about that
initially, but it has not warped at all.  The angle over channel
arrangement means that there is about a 2" lip of ange above the deck of
the trailer.  I like this because it gives me a good place to attache
tie-downs to without cluttering the deck.  It also provides a solid place
to wedge non-automotive cargo against.

The trailer sits on 2 5000# torsion axles and has electric brakes on both
axles. I recommend the dual axle trailer, mostly because it will tow better
than single.  It is not nearly as sensitive to toung weight as a single
axle is.  I have put almost 2000# just behind the axles and it dis not sway
at all.  I also recommend brakes on both axles, as it will stop a lot
better ans is required in some states.

The trailer came with stake pockets, and I added 9 D-rings.  It has slide
under ramps mounted out the rear.  I also added a spare tire carrier.  I
have been very happy with this trailer, my only complaint being the
wiring.  They used a frame ground, which I hate.  They also used a
pop-rivet to attach the ground wire to the frame.  It worked fine for about
8 years, then all the grounds were corroded to the point that nothing
worked.   I rewired it with separate ground wires and it is back in
business now.  I paid just over $3k for this unit about 10 years ago and
feel like I have more than gotten my money's worth out of it.

On Wed, May 30, 2012 at 6:12 PM, John Niolon <jniolon at att.net> wrote:

>   Well, my Bobcat 250 welder/trailer is on the sale block and as soon as it
> has a lucky new owner my search for a open car hauler will begin.  Well,
> actually I'm looking now but lack of funds takes a lot of the fun out of
> it..
>
> I see lots of options and I'm sure it depends on what you're gonna haul,
> how
> far and how much $$$ you have
>
> My tow vehicle is a 2008 Suburban with a 5.3 L Vortec.   It has the towing
> package and the recommended GVW is 8100 #.
>
> My towed vehicle will be a '53 F-100 ford pickup... with a curb weight of
> 3500
> to 3800 pounds.
>
> I see lots of different designs   channel, tube, but the most seem to be
> channel frame in either 4" or 5" or 6" and either 3500" axles or 5K axles
> with
> either 1 or 2 axle brakes... some with breakaway setup some without...
> aluminum would be sweet but out of the budget...by the way budget would be
> 2500 or less.... or a little more if I found an excellent buy (like a
> trailer
> worth 4K for 2800.  Oh wait... that's the other guys deal, not mine.
>
> I want slide in ramps, perferably rear entry to cut down on the carrying
> them
> around ...  I'm favoring D-rings over stake pockets cause I want to use
> wheel
> type tiedowns...  but that is something I can add myself and is no deal
> breaker...
>
> all the rest will be optional... I have a winch I can add on if needed
> although I plan on driving it on.  Removable fender would be nice but
> nothing
> that can't be fabricated if needed.  Steel deck is my favorite just from a
> maintenance standpoint.. and weight. all of the above is  depending on $$$
> and
> availability.   So I'm looking for suggestions, ideas, warnings, brand
> recommendations..etc...  educate me on car haulers
>
> oh, and ask me about my welder/trailer if you're interested..
>
> thanks
> John
>
>
>
>
>
> I'm sarcastic... what's your superpower ?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com
>
>


-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================

From rgallagrrr at mcn.net  Wed May 30 20:23:13 2012
From: rgallagrrr at mcn.net (Richard Gallagher)
Date: Wed, 30 May 2012 20:23:13 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Tractor Won't Start
Message-ID: <000301cd3ed4$554d2380$ffe76a80$@mcn.net>

Hi guys,

>From Great Falls, Montana:  I need help with my John Deere 950 utility
tractor (about 22 hp but with gears a very good tractor).  We have 30 acres
and need the tractor to help maintain it.  Last couple of weeks after work
(yes, I do have a rgeular job and thank you God for the rain last weekend)
I fertilized about 25 acres for hay and the tractor worked great.  Now the
battrey went dead (maybe--see below).  I purchased a replacement commerical
battrey from NAPA and the darn thing still won't start.  With the new
battrey hooked up the lights work but the starter turns a couple of cranks
and then the solinoid just clicks.  I've got an electrical problem.  Now I
am not sure that the old commercial battrey went dead but it is now
gone--all I know is that it would not take a charge from the charger.  My
guess is that it died and in the process of trying to charge it I messed up
something--voltage regulator???  The starter still wants to crank but is
there a short???

 

Your advice would be greatly appreciated.

Rich Gallagher

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May 30 20:37:56 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 30 May 2012 19:37:56 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Tractor Won't Start
In-Reply-To: <000301cd3ed4$554d2380$ffe76a80$@mcn.net>
References: <000301cd3ed4$554d2380$ffe76a80$@mcn.net>
Message-ID: <0b4301cd3ed6$63b3bea0$2b1b3be0$@rr.com>

> With the new
> battrey hooked up the lights work but the starter turns a couple of
> cranks
> and then the solinoid just clicks.  I've got an electrical problem.

What happens to the lights, if you leave them on?

First thing I would try is to immediately (after the solenoid just clicks)
feel all along the battery cables, to ground and to the starter.  If
anything is hot, you've just found a bad connection.

Then a voltmeter (DMM) to check the voltage at various points while trying
to crank the engine.  Might need a helper or some clip leads to manage both
at the same time.

Last time I had a somewhat similar problem, the starter itself was shorted
internally.  It would still crank, kind of, but was drawing many times more
current than it should.  One of the brush wires had gotten tangled in the
armature.  But in that case, one of the battery cables smoked.

-- Randall 

From crothfuss at coastalnet.com  Wed May 30 20:44:15 2012
From: crothfuss at coastalnet.com (Chuck)
Date: Wed, 30 May 2012 22:44:15 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Tractor Won't Start
Message-ID: <18163279.1338432256156.JavaMail.root@elwamui-karabash.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Hi Richard,

   Have you checked all the connections between the battery and ground and B+ and the starter?  If both batteries are unable to provide the current the starter needs there may be a high resistance somewhere in the circuit.  If you access the cables you could run a jumper cable in parallel and see if that helps.  If you run it as a redundant ground from B- to the engine ground and it starts, there's likely high resistance in the ground circuit.  

This back-yard diagnostic method is only slightly removed from the beat-on-the-starter-with-a-hammer diagnostic technique, but it might turn up something.

Chuck

-----Original Message-----
>From: Richard Gallagher <rgallagrrr at mcn.net>
>Sent: May 30, 2012 10:23 PM
>To: shop-talk at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Shop-talk] Tractor Won't Start
>
>Hi guys,
>
>From Great Falls, Montana:  I need help with my John Deere 950 utility
>tractor (about 22 hp but with gears a very good tractor).  We have 30 acres
>and need the tractor to help maintain it.  Last couple of weeks after work
>(yes, I do have a rgeular job and thank you God for the rain last weekend)
>I fertilized about 25 acres for hay and the tractor worked great.  Now the
>battrey went dead (maybe--see below).  I purchased a replacement commerical
>battrey from NAPA and the darn thing still won't start.  With the new
>battrey hooked up the lights work but the starter turns a couple of cranks
>and then the solinoid just clicks.  I've got an electrical problem.  Now I
>am not sure that the old commercial battrey went dead but it is now
>gone--all I know is that it would not take a charge from the charger.  My
>guess is that it died and in the process of trying to charge it I messed up
>something--voltage regulator???  The starter still wants to crank but is
>there a short???
>
> 
>
>Your advice would be greatly appreciated.
>
>Rich Gallagher
>_______________________________________________

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Wed May 30 20:54:33 2012
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Wed, 30 May 2012 22:54:33 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Tractor Won't Start
In-Reply-To: <000301cd3ed4$554d2380$ffe76a80$@mcn.net>
References: <000301cd3ed4$554d2380$ffe76a80$@mcn.net>
Message-ID: <CE30678E5BE14D15894A6F068781D5DF@EricJRussellPC>

First thing is to make sure all electrical connections in the battery to 
starter circuit are 100%. Don't assume they are OK because they look good 
and feel tight - remove, clean & resecure each one. This includes any ground 
connections - if there is a braided strap around the engine mounts for 
example.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

----- Original Message ----- 
> With the new battrey hooked up the lights work but the starter turns a 
> couple of cranks
> and then the solinoid just clicks. 

From fishplate at gmail.com  Thu May 31 04:55:43 2012
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 06:55:43 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Tractor Won't Start
In-Reply-To: <000301cd3ed4$554d2380$ffe76a80$@mcn.net>
References: <000301cd3ed4$554d2380$ffe76a80$@mcn.net>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7COVX4G-WDdgXVaW3SHuLTxxAfPoPbzGmMeeG5YLGO-fNQ@mail.gmail.com>

We have a couple of 950's at work - nice tractor.

What everybody else said, but especially Eric.  You need to check and
clean all the connections.

If you have a /real/ set of jumper cables, like 4/0 or bigger, you
could go straight from the battery to the starter and see if it turns
that way.  Be careful with them while you're doing that...make your
last connection at the starter.  If one jumper from + battery to +
starter doesn't get it going, then add the other from - battery to a
ground at the starter. Make the last connection at the starter.

The reason to make the last connection at the starter is to avoid
making a spark within the cloud of hydrogen gas above the battery.

Did the store do any test on your old battery?

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

On Wed, May 30, 2012 at 10:23 PM, Richard Gallagher <rgallagrrr at mcn.net>
wrote:
> Hi guys,
>
> From Great Falls, Montana:  I need help with my John Deere 950 utility
> tractor (about 22 hp but with gears a very good tractor).  We have 30 acres
> and need the tractor to help maintain it.  Last couple of weeks after work
> (yes, I do have a rgeular job and thank you God for the rain last weekend)
> I fertilized about 25 acres for hay and the tractor worked great.  Now the
> battrey went dead (maybe--see below).  I purchased a replacement commerical
> battrey from NAPA and the darn thing still won't start.  With the new
> battrey hooked up the lights work but the starter turns a couple of cranks
> and then the solinoid just clicks.  I've got an electrical problem.  Now I
> am not sure that the old commercial battrey went dead but it is now
> gone--all I know is that it would not take a charge from the charger.  My
> guess is that it died and in the process of trying to charge it I messed up
> something--voltage regulator???  The starter still wants to crank but is
> there a short???
>
>
>
> Your advice would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Rich Gallagher
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate at gmail.com

From marka at maracing.com  Thu May 31 07:16:36 2012
From: marka at maracing.com (Mark Andy)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 09:16:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] car hauler tralier advise.
In-Reply-To: <E9C7ED990EF74961A60616BDD2B733D1@john5043a2d406>
References: <E9C7ED990EF74961A60616BDD2B733D1@john5043a2d406>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.1205310910330.28806@thunder.banklogic.net>

Howdy,

On Wed, 30 May 2012, John Niolon wrote:
> So I'm looking for suggestions, ideas, warnings, brand 
> recommendations..etc...  educate me on car haulers

What I've found everytime I've looked for a regular open car trailer is 
that they hold their value well enough that you might as well buy a new 
inexpensive trailer vs. a used one.

Around me, EconoTrailer is a goto brand.  http://www.econotrailer.com/ 
I've had one of their trailers and friends have had various versions. 
They're a good basic car trailer.  All steel, nothing particularly fancy, 
etc.

Nice thing is that you get them new, so there's not the rework that always 
seems to be needed on a used trailer buy.  I'm at the point now where if 
the money is anything like close, I'd rather be spending my time on 
projects I want to do, vs. working on the tow vehicle or trailer or 
whatever.

Anyway, just putting it out there.  Looks like they're getting $2750 for a 
full deck 18' trailer these days.  If you can do an open deck trailer its 
$2350.  Shorter 15' trailers are a little less.

Mark

From hillman at planet-torque.com  Thu May 31 09:56:21 2012
From: hillman at planet-torque.com (David Hillman)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 11:56:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] car hauler tralier advise.
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.64.1205310910330.28806@thunder.banklogic.net>
References: <E9C7ED990EF74961A60616BDD2B733D1@john5043a2d406>
	<Pine.LNX.4.64.1205310910330.28806@thunder.banklogic.net>
Message-ID: <alpine.BSF.2.00.1205311153400.67610@itonami.pair.com>

On Thu, 31 May 2012, Mark Andy wrote:
> What I've found everytime I've looked for a regular open car trailer is that 
> they hold their value well enough that you might as well buy a new 
> inexpensive trailer vs. a used one.

    Same here.  I shopped for a long time last year, and never found a 
single non-junk trailer for less than I could get a brand-new one for... 
without even shopping around for low new prices.

--
  David Hillman

From jniolon at att.net  Thu May 31 10:26:28 2012
From: jniolon at att.net (john niolon)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 09:26:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] car hauler tralier advise.
In-Reply-To: <alpine.BSF.2.00.1205311153400.67610@itonami.pair.com>
Message-ID: <1338481588.76876.YahooMailClassic@web181706.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

same holds true around here... you can buy used for 2500 and new for
2700-2800.  seems a no brainer... buy new and save all the rework like Mark
mentioned... 
 
is a mid range  5" channel and 3500# axles usually sufficient ??  like I said,
the load is less than 4K and less... don't plan on loaning it out... that's
what bends fenders and tongues and strips out the wiring...  see that enough
with work trailers... it's amazing how much damage can be done to a
trailer...expecially when you don't have to pay to fix it..
 
j

...telling some people to "be yourself" is about the worst
advice you could give them

--- On Thu, 5/31/12, David Hillman <hillman at planet-torque.com> wrote:


From: David Hillman <hillman at planet-torque.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] car hauler tralier advise.
To: "Mark Andy" <marka at maracing.com>
Cc: "shop-talk" <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, May 31, 2012, 3:56 PM


On Thu, 31 May 2012, Mark Andy wrote:
> What I've found everytime I've looked for a regular open car trailer is that
they hold their value well enough that you might as well buy a new inexpensive
trailer vs. a used one.

   Same here.  I shopped for a long time last year, and never found a single
non-junk trailer for less than I could get a brand-new one for... without even
shopping around for low new prices.

--
David Hillman
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From marka at maracing.com  Thu May 31 13:13:21 2012
From: marka at maracing.com (Mark Andy)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 15:13:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] car hauler tralier advise.
In-Reply-To: <1338481588.76876.YahooMailClassic@web181706.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1338481588.76876.YahooMailClassic@web181706.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.1205311511270.4963@thunder.banklogic.net>

Howdy,

On Thu, 31 May 2012, john niolon wrote:
> is a mid range 5" channel and 3500# axles usually sufficient ??  like I 
> said, the load is less than 4K and less...

Should be fine.  I think the 'typical steel open trailer' weighs around 2k 
lbs or a little under, so even with some additional crap you've got a 
cushion to the rated axle capacity.  Most every open car trailer I see at 
autocrosses has 2 3.5k axles.

Mark

From battmain at yahoo.com  Thu May 31 16:32:58 2012
From: battmain at yahoo.com (Battmain)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 15:32:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] car hauler tralier advise.
In-Reply-To: <1338481588.76876.YahooMailClassic@web181706.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <alpine.BSF.2.00.1205311153400.67610@itonami.pair.com>
	<1338481588.76876.YahooMailClassic@web181706.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1338503578.92008.YahooMailNeo@web160103.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

It will most likely work fine for you. . 

For my next trailer, I'm going with
a higher rated axle than the 
dual 1760# 14" tires (3500#) that I have now. I
don't tow much 
weight, but here is my reasoning. I tow long distances. When
the 
bearings decide to take a crap, and you don't know when that will 
occur, you hope  to catch the issue before the spindles get torn up.

That
could be at the side of a highway and as we know it is not 
fun inspecting
or doing anything on the side of the highway. I 
carry a spare axle and
multiple bearings, nuts, etc. The few 
miles on one wheel with a load to get
off the highway, really 
heats up that single bearing set on that side. A
higher rated axle 
will help in that situation. 

Only you can decide if it is
enough. 

B




>________________________________
> From: john niolon
<jniolon at att.net>
>To: shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net> 
>Sent: Thursday,
May 31, 2012 12:26 PM
>Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] car hauler tralier advise.
>
(snip)
>is a mid range  5" channel and 3500# axles usually sufficient ??  like
I said,
>the load is less than 4K and less... don't plan on loaning it out...
that's
>what bends fenders and tongues and strips out the wiring...  see that
enough
>with work trailers... it's amazing how much damage can be done to a
>trailer...expecially when you don't have to pay to fix it..
>
>(snip)

From rgallagrrr at mcn.net  Thu May 31 20:27:43 2012
From: rgallagrrr at mcn.net (Richard Gallagher)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 20:27:43 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Tractor Won't Start
In-Reply-To: <CAO8Q7COVX4G-WDdgXVaW3SHuLTxxAfPoPbzGmMeeG5YLGO-fNQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000301cd3ed4$554d2380$ffe76a80$@mcn.net>
	<CAO8Q7COVX4G-WDdgXVaW3SHuLTxxAfPoPbzGmMeeG5YLGO-fNQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000301cd3f9e$20c49830$624dc890$@mcn.net>

Thank you all for your suggestions.  I tried the "rea" jumper cables to the
starter and it started right up.  Then I tried the positive battery cable to
the battrey which goes directly to the starter and not starter action.  So
I'll get a new positive cable tomorrow and I think that willl fix it.  P.S.
I also wacked the starter a couple of time with a hammer as suggested but
that wasn't the problem.
Thanks again for all of your help.
Rich Gallagher

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeff Scarbrough
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 4:56 AM
To: shop-talk at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tractor Won't Start

We have a couple of 950's at work - nice tractor.

What everybody else said, but especially Eric.  You need to check and clean
all the connections.

If you have a /real/ set of jumper cables, like 4/0 or bigger, you could go
straight from the battery to the starter and see if it turns that way.  Be
careful with them while you're doing that...make your last connection at the
starter.  If one jumper from + battery to + starter doesn't get it going,
then add the other from - battery to a ground at the starter. Make the last
connection at the starter.

The reason to make the last connection at the starter is to avoid making a
spark within the cloud of hydrogen gas above the battery.

Did the store do any test on your old battery?

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

On Wed, May 30, 2012 at 10:23 PM, Richard Gallagher <rgallagrrr at mcn.net>
wrote:
> Hi guys,
>
> From Great Falls, Montana:  I need help with my John Deere 950 utility 
> tractor (about 22 hp but with gears a very good tractor).  We have 30 
> acres and need the tractor to help maintain it.  Last couple of weeks 
> after work (yes, I do have a rgeular job and thank you God for the 
> rain last weekend) I fertilized about 25 acres for hay and the tractor 
> worked great.  Now the battrey went dead (maybe--see below).  I 
> purchased a replacement commerical battrey from NAPA and the darn 
> thing still won't start.  With the new battrey hooked up the lights 
> work but the starter turns a couple of cranks and then the solinoid 
> just clicks.  I've got an electrical problem.  Now I am not sure that 
> the old commercial battrey went dead but it is now gone--all I know is 
> that it would not take a charge from the charger.  My guess is that it 
> died and in the process of trying to charge it I messed up 
> something--voltage regulator???  The starter still wants to crank but is
there a short???
>
>
>
> Your advice would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Rich Gallagher
> _______________________________________________
>
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