[Shop-talk] Tapeless Joint Compound?

[Peter J. Thomas]

On 6/3/2012 11:58 PM, Karl Vacek wrote:
> Another method similar to using wood glue to install drywall patches is to
> use Heavy-Duty Liquid Nails out of a caulk gun.  It's thicker than typical
> wood glue so it's easier to work with and it's a latex adhesive so it
> remains quite flexible.  I thought I'd invented something when I first did
> that - but apparently I just reinvented the technique.

We have two different cases, mine is a dry wall patch in dry wall 
(similar materials) and yours is dry wall patch in plaster (dissimilar 
materials).  I don't think my techinique would work well in your 
situation.  In my case the thinner glue is desirable.  I'm not trying to 
fill a gap with the glue; I'm repairing just the paper layer. This is 
why I sand through the existing paint to expose the paper.  The thinner 
glue soaks into the paper and gap filling compound making the paper 
layer continuous.

Interesting on the liquid nails though.  I've used a similar technique 
to deal with corners where the walls meet the ceiling.  Because of 
settling, some of the tape either ripples or compound cracks at the edge 
of the tape. I pull off the old tape and compound with a corner trowel 
but no tape.  Before painting gouge out the seam with a stiff putty 
knife and fill with ALEX (painter's chaulk) .  Like the liquid nails, 
the ALEX remains flexible and allows for some movement.  My repairs are 
only a year old so I don't how well this will hold up in the long run.  
No cracks so far and I suspect if cracks do appear it will be in the 
seam instead of the tape edge.

Peter T

>   Anyway, I've used it
> similarly to the way Peter suggested.  I first install a wood slat or two
> across the opening and let the glue dry.  In my rock-lath-and-plaster house
> I don't usually use screws to fasten the slats because the finish coat of
> plaster is very hard and screws would to be countersink and often cause
> cracking anyway.  Then I glue in the patch, filling in around the whole
> patch with Liquid Nails.  I go over the edge with a taping knife just to
> make sure there's nothing projecting (Liquid Nails gums up sandpaper and so
> doesn't sand particularly easily), and let it dry.  If the glue shrinks back
> and leaves a deep void, I sometimes put in a second coat of Liquid Nails and
> again clean off the outside.  Then when it's dry I go over the patch with
> joint compound and when dry, sand it lightly.
> Karl
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Stone
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tapeless Joint Compound?
> And, Peter: thanks for the liquid tape idea.  Unless Brian tells me that I
> don't need tape with Durabond, I will give that a try.
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