From rolds at plausa.com Sat Nov 5 04:24:44 2011 From: rolds at plausa.com (Ron Olds) Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 11:24:44 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] Vintique Inc 3rd Brake Light Message-ID: Hello Everyone, I'm looking for a little help or advice. I purchased from Moss a while back one of their Vintique Inc LED 3rd Brake lamp assemblies (116-115). Last week end I finally got around to installing it on my TR6. Before installing it I tested it and all the LEDs worked fine. After installing it only two of the LEDs now light up. I haven't too closely at the unit yet. Anyone else had this experience or suggestions. Ron Olds From jibjib at att.net Sat Nov 5 21:26:32 2011 From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks) Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 21:26:32 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Vintique Inc 3rd Brake Light In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <302BA3F9DD624C5890C391C17270D16E@EntCentPC> Ron, Using the lamp in a TR6's electrical system will provide more robust test than testing off the car, so the voltage variances in the TR6 may have caused an issue. A lot of lower line LED lamps are built with too few resistors controlling the amperage to the individual LEDs and fail quickly, or perhaps there is a misfabrication. If you can/want to open it up and verify the circuitry is correct, here is a calculator I have used to design LED circuits. If the resistance is off, LED's can fail quickly. http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz Personally, I'd call Moss up and talk with tech services before I opened it up and potentially void a warrantee. They may have already seen a failure pattern with this item and can take care of you quickly. Jack -----Original Message----- From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Olds Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2011 4:25 AM To: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net); mgs at autox.team.net; mg-t at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net; shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: [Shop-talk] Vintique Inc 3rd Brake Light Hello Everyone, I'm looking for a little help or advice. I purchased from Moss a while back one of their Vintique Inc LED 3rd Brake lamp assemblies (116-115). Last week end I finally got around to installing it on my TR6. Before installing it I tested it and all the LEDs worked fine. After installing it only two of the LEDs now light up. I haven't too closely at the unit yet. Anyone else had this experience or suggestions. Ron Olds _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibjib at att.net From rolds at plausa.com Sun Nov 6 14:36:32 2011 From: rolds at plausa.com (Ron Olds) Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 21:36:32 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] Vintique Inc 3rd Brake Light In-Reply-To: <302BA3F9DD624C5890C391C17270D16E@EntCentPC> References: <302BA3F9DD624C5890C391C17270D16E@EntCentPC> Message-ID: Jack, Thanks for the information. The situation is getting stranger. Today I looked at it briefly and now all the lights are working except the two that were working (but aren't now). the two that are not working are the 7th and 8th from one end. Ron Olds -----Original Message----- From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jack Brooks Sent: Sunday, November 06, 2011 12:27 AM To: 'Triumphs'; mgs at autox.team.net; mg-t at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net; shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Vintique Inc 3rd Brake Light Ron, Using the lamp in a TR6's electrical system will provide more robust test than testing off the car, so the voltage variances in the TR6 may have caused an issue. A lot of lower line LED lamps are built with too few resistors controlling the amperage to the individual LEDs and fail quickly, or perhaps there is a misfabrication. If you can/want to open it up and verify the circuitry is correct, here is a calculator I have used to design LED circuits. If the resistance is off, LED's can fail quickly. http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz Personally, I'd call Moss up and talk with tech services before I opened it up and potentially void a warrantee. They may have already seen a failure pattern with this item and can take care of you quickly. Jack -----Original Message----- From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Olds Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2011 4:25 AM To: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net); mgs at autox.team.net; mg-t at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net; shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: [Shop-talk] Vintique Inc 3rd Brake Light Hello Everyone, I'm looking for a little help or advice. I purchased from Moss a while back one of their Vintique Inc LED 3rd Brake lamp assemblies (116-115). Last week end I finally got around to installing it on my TR6. Before installing it I tested it and all the LEDs worked fine. After installing it only two of the LEDs now light up. I haven't too closely at the unit yet. Anyone else had this experience or suggestions. Ron Olds From arvidj at visi.com Wed Nov 9 11:26:13 2011 From: arvidj at visi.com (Arvid Jedlicka) Date: Wed, 9 Nov 2011 12:26:13 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Need advice on shipping 1500 lbs from California to Minnesota ... Message-ID: <9C3A50AD2DDC46D6ACA54C0784655396@HP62011> I have an opportunity to buy a mill. The owner is willing to palletize it. Now all I need to do is figure out how to engage a freight company to go to his house with a tailgate lift, he has a pallet jack and can get it on the tailgate, then have the freight company do it's thing to get it to my driveway and do the tailgate lift thing a second time. Any suggestions on where to start with something like this? Thanks, Arvid From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Nov 10 21:31:12 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 20:31:12 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Need advice on shipping 1500 lbs from California to Minnesota ... In-Reply-To: <9C3A50AD2DDC46D6ACA54C0784655396@HP62011> References: <9C3A50AD2DDC46D6ACA54C0784655396@HP62011> Message-ID: <06af01cca02a$be3867e0$0501a8c0@randall> I'd probably start with Forward Air. In spite of their name, they also do surface shipping. I've only done terminal-to-terminal; but I believe they offer pickup and delivery as well (at significantly more cost). http://www.forwardair.com/ -- Randall From jfbriggs at sbcglobal.net Thu Nov 10 21:45:57 2011 From: jfbriggs at sbcglobal.net (John B) Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 23:45:57 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Need advice on shipping 1500 lbs from California to Minnesota ... In-Reply-To: <9C3A50AD2DDC46D6ACA54C0784655396@HP62011> References: <9C3A50AD2DDC46D6ACA54C0784655396@HP62011> Message-ID: www.freightquote.com might have what you are looking for. No interest..... John -----Original Message----- From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Arvid Jedlicka Sent: Wednesday, November 09, 2011 1:26 PM To: shop-talk Subject: [Shop-talk] Need advice on shipping 1500 lbs from California to Minnesota ... I have an opportunity to buy a mill. The owner is willing to palletize it. Now all I need to do is figure out how to engage a freight company to go to his house with a tailgate lift, he has a pallet jack and can get it on the tailgate, then have the freight company do it's thing to get it to my driveway and do the tailgate lift thing a second time. Any suggestions on where to start with something like this? Thanks, Arvid _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jfbriggs at sbcglobal.net From jamesf at groupwbench.org Fri Nov 11 03:51:23 2011 From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin) Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 05:51:23 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Need advice on shipping 1500 lbs from California to Minnesota ... In-Reply-To: <9C3A50AD2DDC46D6ACA54C0784655396@HP62011> References: <9C3A50AD2DDC46D6ACA54C0784655396@HP62011> Message-ID: I used uship for a motorcycle, they are a bidding service who bring together shippers and clients. Takes a while though, as your package may transit several actual trucks. http://www.uship.com/ jim On Nov 9, 2011, at 1:26 PM, Arvid Jedlicka wrote: > I have an opportunity to buy a mill. The owner is willing to palletize it. Now all I need to do is figure out how to engage a freight company to go to his house with a tailgate lift, he has a pallet jack and can get it on the tailgate, then have the freight company do it's thing to get it to my driveway and do the tailgate lift thing a second time. > > Any suggestions on where to start with something like this? > > Thanks, > Arvid _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf at groupwbench.org From eric at megageek.com Fri Nov 11 08:45:14 2011 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 10:45:14 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Need advice on shipping 1500 lbs from California to Minnesota ... In-Reply-To: <9C3A50AD2DDC46D6ACA54C0784655396@HP62011> Message-ID: I've wrestled with this problem for years. I am always selling stuff on ebay and CL and getting ripped off from shipping companies. That was until I shipped 3 X 300 lbs ship hatch cover to CT about 2 months ago. In my research I came across this site... http://www.freightcenter.com/ And low and behold, I was a believer. There process is simple and painless. They will assign you a personal rep that works with you. My guys name is... Kevin Chase 1-800-716-7608, Ext. 1024 They not only give you a price, they show you the pricing options for about 5 to 10 shipping companies (all of which to can schedule through them.) Call him and tell him Eric Petrevich sent you. He is a great guy and their prices are very reasonable. But even more impressive, he worked with me to try a few different options to see what way had the best price. (we looked at different pallets, one pallet, different configurations, etc) until I got a great price. Then, the day it shipped, the price was reduced with a discount they gave me. I have no interest in the company, I'm just really happy to find a firm that answered a problem that I was always having with large freight shipping. BTW, the price they gave me beat the pants off of local carriers. On a side note, to date my largest shipment was a custom made pallet with 8 stretchers on it shipped to Taiwan. It cost about $3500 for the shipment and the sale price of the stretchers was only $200. This was BEFORE I found Freightcenters. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson "Arvid Jedlicka" Sent by: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net 11/10/2011 23:00 To "shop-talk" cc Subject [Shop-talk] Need advice on shipping 1500 lbs from California to Minnesota ... I have an opportunity to buy a mill. The owner is willing to palletize it. Now all I need to do is figure out how to engage a freight company to go to his house with a tailgate lift, he has a pallet jack and can get it on the tailgate, then have the freight company do it's thing to get it to my driveway and do the tailgate lift thing a second time. Any suggestions on where to start with something like this? Thanks, Arvid _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eric at megageek.com From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com Fri Nov 11 09:28:32 2011 From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott) Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 11:28:32 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Need advice on shipping 1500 lbs from California to Minnesota ... In-Reply-To: <9C3A50AD2DDC46D6ACA54C0784655396@HP62011> References: <9C3A50AD2DDC46D6ACA54C0784655396@HP62011> Message-ID: <4EBD4D30.7030706@gmail.com> Arvid, I have that same question. When I went through this about a year ago, the best option was for me to drive from Florida to California, stick it on my trailer, and drive it back. I tried everyone I could think of and every shipper mentioned anywhere, and the responses still ranged from no response at all, to "you want to ship a 'what'?", to that they did that a lot and would be happy to do it...for $2200. I just read Eric's response. I have never dealt with that company. If they work for you, please let me know since I'm also trying to buy a mill (from a fellow list member, even) in California and so far the hardest part is getting the free week-plus to drive there and back. I tried freight and rail shippers, and even made it clear time wasn't particularly important. Still no useful responses. What got me discouraged is that the shipper and my house are on either end of both Interstate 10 and a rail line from each other. It's a bit farther from the shipper to either the rail line or the Interstate, but I'm a few miles from either. They just had to stick it on a train or truck, take as long as they'd like to get it across the country, then I'd pick it up from the depot. I thought that should have been a more simple shipping arrangement, and the mill was even on a pallet already. Apparently not. I guess if you don't find anyone, let me know and when I get over there, I can get yours too. I go from Florida to St. Louis and Chicago pretty frequently and if you could meet me somewhere I could just deliver your mill to you (if you can wait for me to go to California). Scott On 11/9/2011 1:26 PM, Arvid Jedlicka wrote: > I have an opportunity to buy a mill. The owner is willing to palletize > it. Now all I need to do is figure out how to engage a freight company > to go to his house with a tailgate lift, he has a pallet jack and can > get it on the tailgate, then have the freight company do it's thing to > get it to my driveway and do the tailgate lift thing a second time. > > Any suggestions on where to start with something like this? From shop at shariconglobal.com Sun Nov 13 17:06:00 2011 From: shop at shariconglobal.com (Aric) Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 19:06:00 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Roof trusses / framing a second floor In-Reply-To: <4EBD4D30.7030706@gmail.com> References: <9C3A50AD2DDC46D6ACA54C0784655396@HP62011> <4EBD4D30.7030706@gmail.com> Message-ID: Greetings Listerati, Long story short, the insurance people have thrown a monkey wrench into the renovation plan we had for the property we bought a couple months back, which means that rehabbing the failed roof on the garage has gone from sometime next year to ***NOW***. Well, not exactly ***NOW** but the moment I finish the quick&dirty patching to the stucco (which the recent cold&wet weather made obvious had failed and was causing the paint&spackle I spent the past 2 months on pop off the wall...) the garage is the next project so we can get off the horrendously expensive "vacant property/construction site" insurance and onto the "landlord policy" we had planned on. Anyway, the garage is roughly 30' x 40' with block walls currently sporting flat roof tht failed 10 or 15 years ago and has since had a couple layers of blue tarp added. We're told the previous owner had planned on adding a second floor but never got around to it (due to his passing away), which would explain the complete lack of pitch on the roof and the exposed joists and seemingly halfassed attempt as a flat roof. The roof is supported by a pair of 14" steel I-beams going parallel to the 30' dimension, spaced 14' apart and 12' in from either end (with 2x14" wood on 16" centers going along the 40' dimension). Given the waterlogged beams supporting the current "roof" and their complete lack of pitch, we're thinking a new pitched roof of some sort is called for (in a quick&cheap sort of way given it's too cold here in SE PA for putting down flat roofs). Seems to me dropping (more than) a couple roof trusses on top of the block walls would be the quick/easy/cheap route (there's 2 local companies that make them)... And while I'm at it, I could frame the walls up 4' or so easy enough to make the attic space usuable as 2nd floor/loft. And at that point I may as well do a proper 2nd floor, but then I'm far from the quick/easy/cheap route. I've got 2 months left to do this, of which 2 weeks are already commited to finishing and painting the stucco. Any advice, particularly about how to spec roof trusses or bumping the walls up a couple feet to gain a second floor? Thanks! -aric. From pat at hornesystemstx.com Sun Nov 13 17:38:17 2011 From: pat at hornesystemstx.com (Pat Horne) Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 18:38:17 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Roof trusses / framing a second floor In-Reply-To: References: <9C3A50AD2DDC46D6ACA54C0784655396@HP62011> <4EBD4D30.7030706@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4EC062F9.9040704@hornesystemstx.com> Aric, First thing I would do is check with your local building officials. If you are out in the country and don't have officials, check with those in a nearby city. They can tell you what the minimum specifications for the roof would be. Trusses generally cost more than hand pulling a roof, but go up easier. The choice is up to you. Depending on what your existing walls are setting on, you may not be able to add a second story. I'd suggest getting the foundation inspected before you start planning for the second story. As for adding the second story, adding the exterior walls before adding the roof will not be that time consuming or expensive. You can always come back and add the flooring for the second story later. Peace, Pat Thusly spake Aric, On 11/13/2011 6:06 PM: > Greetings Listerati, > > Long story short, the insurance people have thrown a monkey wrench into the > renovation plan we had for the property we bought a couple months back, > which means that rehabbing the failed roof on the garage has gone from > sometime next year to ***NOW***. Well, not exactly ***NOW** but the moment > I finish the quick&dirty patching to the stucco (which the recent cold&wet > weather made obvious had failed and was causing the paint&spackle I spent > the past 2 months on pop off the wall...) the garage is the next project so > we can get off the horrendously expensive "vacant property/construction > site" insurance and onto the "landlord policy" we had planned on. > > Anyway, the garage is roughly 30' x 40' with block walls currently sporting > flat roof tht failed 10 or 15 years ago and has since had a couple layers of > blue tarp added. We're told the previous owner had planned on adding a > second floor but never got around to it (due to his passing away), which > would explain the complete lack of pitch on the roof and the exposed joists > and seemingly halfassed attempt as a flat roof. The roof is supported by a > pair of 14" steel I-beams going parallel to the 30' dimension, spaced 14' > apart and 12' in from either end (with 2x14" wood on 16" centers going along > the 40' dimension). Given the waterlogged beams supporting the current > "roof" and their complete lack of pitch, we're thinking a new pitched roof > of some sort is called for (in a quick&cheap sort of way given it's too cold > here in SE PA for putting down flat roofs). > > Seems to me dropping (more than) a couple roof trusses on top of the block > walls would be the quick/easy/cheap route (there's 2 local companies that > make them)... And while I'm at it, I could frame the walls up 4' or so easy > enough to make the attic space usuable as 2nd floor/loft. And at that point > I may as well do a proper 2nd floor, but then I'm far from the > quick/easy/cheap route. I've got 2 months left to do this, of which 2 weeks > are already commited to finishing and painting the stucco. > > Any advice, particularly about how to spec roof trusses or bumping the walls > up a couple feet to gain a second floor? > > Thanks! > > -aric. > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat at hornesystemstx.com > > > -- Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems (512) 797-7501 Voice 5026 FM 2001 Pat at HorneSystemsTx.com Lockhart, TX 78644-4443 www.hornesystemstx.com -- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT -- From jmitch at snet.net Sun Nov 13 20:09:06 2011 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 22:09:06 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Looking for a rotisserie Message-ID: <4EC08652.40202@snet.net> I'm looking into ordering a rotisserie for my Triumph Stag restoration. There are quite a few different units advertised on the web and I was wondering if anyone on here has a recommendation for a particular model. I'm not really into building my own as I have enough projects to do. I know I'm going to need to add door bars because it's a convertible and I'd like to add oversize casters to make it easier to move inside and out as needed. I note that many of the units are advertised as 2000lb or as 3000lb capable, and is a heavier unit desirable. The Stag is of monocoque construction(unibody) with fully independent suspension, if that makes any difference to the items I will need to order. Thanks for any advice. John Mitchell From jdinnis at gmail.com Sun Nov 13 18:54:41 2011 From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis) Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 19:54:41 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Roof trusses / framing a second floor In-Reply-To: References: <9C3A50AD2DDC46D6ACA54C0784655396@HP62011> <4EBD4D30.7030706@gmail.com> Message-ID: We spec'd "room in attic" trusses in the attic of our house, which give you a fair amount of usable space depending on your roof pitch. We ended up with a room that is 15' wide (at the floor) with a 4' knee wall and about 4" of flat ceiling in the center of the room (the rest of the ceiling is at roof pitch. The only issue we had with this space was getting it properly insulated. The sub-floor to wall join was too loose originally and we had a lot of air leakage (this is a partially finished, heated space). We ended using spray in foam to seal up the trouble spots, and have had no issues since. Here is a copy of the plan and some pics of the framing. http://www.johninnis.com/our_new_home/plans/P1010006_1.jpg http://www.johninnis.com/our_new_home/Construction/06_15_07/IMG_0643.jpg On Sun, Nov 13, 2011 at 6:06 PM, Aric wrote: > Greetings Listerati, > > Long story short, the insurance people have thrown a monkey wrench into the > renovation plan we had for the property we bought a couple months back, > which means that rehabbing the failed roof on the garage has gone from > sometime next year to ***NOW***. Well, not exactly ***NOW** but the moment > I finish the quick&dirty patching to the stucco (which the recent cold&wet > weather made obvious had failed and was causing the paint&spackle I spent > the past 2 months on pop off the wall...) the garage is the next project so > we can get off the horrendously expensive "vacant property/construction > site" insurance and onto the "landlord policy" we had planned on. > > Anyway, the garage is roughly 30' x 40' with block walls currently sporting > flat roof tht failed 10 or 15 years ago and has since had a couple layers > of > blue tarp added. We're told the previous owner had planned on adding a > second floor but never got around to it (due to his passing away), which > would explain the complete lack of pitch on the roof and the exposed joists > and seemingly halfassed attempt as a flat roof. The roof is supported by a > pair of 14" steel I-beams going parallel to the 30' dimension, spaced 14' > apart and 12' in from either end (with 2x14" wood on 16" centers going > along > the 40' dimension). Given the waterlogged beams supporting the current > "roof" and their complete lack of pitch, we're thinking a new pitched roof > of some sort is called for (in a quick&cheap sort of way given it's too > cold > here in SE PA for putting down flat roofs). > > Seems to me dropping (more than) a couple roof trusses on top of the block > walls would be the quick/easy/cheap route (there's 2 local companies that > make them)... And while I'm at it, I could frame the walls up 4' or so > easy > enough to make the attic space usuable as 2nd floor/loft. And at that > point > I may as well do a proper 2nd floor, but then I'm far from the > quick/easy/cheap route. I've got 2 months left to do this, of which 2 > weeks > are already commited to finishing and painting the stucco. > > Any advice, particularly about how to spec roof trusses or bumping the > walls > up a couple feet to gain a second floor? > > Thanks! > > -aric. > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com > > -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= From eric at megageek.com Tue Nov 15 07:26:43 2011 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 09:26:43 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Outdoor power outlet Message-ID: OK, I'm finally recovering from the storm. Man, being without internet really makes you realize how isolated you are. In fact, many times during the outage, I wanted to ask questions on this list but couldn't! 8>( OK, the first of my questions... I have a generator that I can run the house with. I added an outlet and a transfer switch. Here is the problem. The outlet is a 50amp 4 pin outlet (standard fitting). The outlet needs to be mounted on a covered porch. So, I need an outlet rated for 'wet locations' but I can't find one. so, my questions is either... What can I use to 'cover' the normal interior outlet to shelter it form the elements (note, it is covered and doesn't get direct sunlight where it is) or Where can I get a weather proof 50 amp outlet? Thanks. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson From jmitch at snet.net Tue Nov 15 08:28:48 2011 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 10:28:48 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Outdoor power outlet In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4EC28530.6080709@snet.net> Try this place http://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/ There alittle slow shipping, but it's where I got mine. John Mitchell On 11/15/2011 9:26 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote: > OK, I'm finally recovering from the storm. Man, being without internet > really makes you realize how isolated you are. In fact, many times during > the outage, I wanted to ask questions on this list but couldn't! 8>( > > OK, the first of my questions... > > I have a generator that I can run the house with. I added an outlet and a > transfer switch. Here is the problem. > > The outlet is a 50amp 4 pin outlet (standard fitting). The outlet needs > to be mounted on a covered porch. So, I need an outlet rated for 'wet > locations' but I can't find one. > > so, my questions is either... > > What can I use to 'cover' the normal interior outlet to shelter it form > the elements (note, it is covered and doesn't get direct sunlight where it > is) or > Where can I get a weather proof 50 amp outlet? > > Thanks. > > Eric P > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph > Waldo Emerson > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jmitch at snet.net From lspector at gmail.com Tue Nov 15 08:36:19 2011 From: lspector at gmail.com (Larry Spector) Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 10:36:19 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Outdoor power outlet In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: You might try a boating supply house. I think they use something similar for providing shore power. -Larry On Tue, Nov 15, 2011 at 9:26 AM, wrote: > OK, I'm finally recovering from the storm. Man, being without internet > really makes you realize how isolated you are. In fact, many times during > the outage, I wanted to ask questions on this list but couldn't! 8>( > > OK, the first of my questions... > > I have a generator that I can run the house with. I added an outlet and a > transfer switch. Here is the problem. > > The outlet is a 50amp 4 pin outlet (standard fitting). The outlet needs > to be mounted on a covered porch. So, I need an outlet rated for 'wet > locations' but I can't find one. > > so, my questions is either... > > What can I use to 'cover' the normal interior outlet to shelter it form > the elements (note, it is covered and doesn't get direct sunlight where it > is) or > Where can I get a weather proof 50 amp outlet? > > Thanks. > > Eric P > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph > Waldo Emerson > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/lspector at gmail.com From ejrussell at mebtel.net Tue Nov 15 08:36:01 2011 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell) Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 10:36:01 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Outdoor power outlet In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: If the 50 amp outlet will not fit into a 'standard' outdoor weather proof box try an RV supplier. Campgrounds have 50 amp/30 amp/15 amp outlets for those of us who take it all with us when we get away from it all... http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-power-cords/multi-outlet-power-box.htm?source=google&gclid=CI3M1sH6uKwCFRBR7AodtnjkGg http://www.hubbell-bell.com/ http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-media/product-gallery/B001JEPX58/ref=cm_ciu_pdp_images_0?ie=UTF8&index=0 Eric Russell Mebane, NC http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell ----- Original Message ----- > What can I use to 'cover' the normal interior outlet to shelter it form > the elements From doug at dougbraun.com Tue Nov 15 08:50:47 2011 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 10:50:47 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Outdoor power outlet In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: don't you actually mean an "inlet"? Aren't weatherproof inlet boxes readily available (but somewhat overpriced)? For example: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200485258_200485258 Doug P.S.: I have a Honda EU2000 generator and a heap of extension cords. They have saved our hide several times this year. But like many other people in NJ, I am contemplating getting getting a bigger generator and a transfer switch setup. Unfortunately everything seems to be out of stock, and installers are all backed up. I'd love to hear any interesting anecdotes from people who have done this. A permanently-installed natural-gas-fed generator may be overkill for me. I am thinking of a manual transfer switch and a EU6500 generator, which is quite powerful enough, but is very quiet and fuel-efficient at partial load. On Tue, Nov 15, 2011 at 9:26 AM, wrote: > OK, I'm finally recovering from the storm. Man, being without internet > really makes you realize how isolated you are. In fact, many times during > the outage, I wanted to ask questions on this list but couldn't! 8>( > > OK, the first of my questions... > > I have a generator that I can run the house with. I added an outlet and a > transfer switch. Here is the problem. > > The outlet is a 50amp 4 pin outlet (standard fitting). The outlet needs > to be mounted on a covered porch. So, I need an outlet rated for 'wet > locations' but I can't find one. > > so, my questions is either... > > What can I use to 'cover' the normal interior outlet to shelter it form > the elements (note, it is covered and doesn't get direct sunlight where it > is) or > Where can I get a weather proof 50 amp outlet? > > Thanks. > > Eric P > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph > Waldo Emerson > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug at dougbraun.com From marka at maracing.com Tue Nov 15 08:57:28 2011 From: marka at maracing.com (Mark Andy) Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 10:57:28 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Shop-talk] Outdoor power outlet In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Howdy, Look for an RV outlet box. I.e.: http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=rv+outlet+box&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=8698564487869315957&sa=X&ei=wYvCTrKsMMXX0QHpvIjwDg&ved=0CHUQ8wIwAQ Mark On Tue, 15 Nov 2011, eric at megageek.com wrote: > OK, I'm finally recovering from the storm. Man, being without internet > really makes you realize how isolated you are. In fact, many times during > the outage, I wanted to ask questions on this list but couldn't! 8>( > > OK, the first of my questions... > > I have a generator that I can run the house with. I added an outlet and a > transfer switch. Here is the problem. > > The outlet is a 50amp 4 pin outlet (standard fitting). The outlet needs > to be mounted on a covered porch. So, I need an outlet rated for 'wet > locations' but I can't find one. > > so, my questions is either... > > What can I use to 'cover' the normal interior outlet to shelter it form > the elements (note, it is covered and doesn't get direct sunlight where it > is) or > Where can I get a weather proof 50 amp outlet? > > Thanks. > > Eric P > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph > Waldo Emerson > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/marka at maracing.com From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com Tue Nov 15 09:05:55 2011 From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott Hall) Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 11:05:55 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Outdoor power outlet In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4EC28DE3.8050802@gmail.com> Eric, I might be missing something, but all the outdoor outlets on my house have the weatherproof housings and covers--they're in a sealed metal outlet box, then the outlet faces themselves have the two hinged covers you have to pull back to plug something in. Those covers are gasketed, etc., and the outlet itself is GFCI-ed. You mean something more than that? Scott On 11/15/2011 9:26 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote: > OK, I'm finally recovering from the storm. Man, being without internet > really makes you realize how isolated you are. In fact, many times during > the outage, I wanted to ask questions on this list but couldn't! 8>( > > OK, the first of my questions... > > I have a generator that I can run the house with. I added an outlet and a > transfer switch. Here is the problem. > > The outlet is a 50amp 4 pin outlet (standard fitting). The outlet needs > to be mounted on a covered porch. So, I need an outlet rated for 'wet > locations' but I can't find one. > > so, my questions is either... > > What can I use to 'cover' the normal interior outlet to shelter it form > the elements (note, it is covered and doesn't get direct sunlight where it > is) or > Where can I get a weather proof 50 amp outlet? From eric at megageek.com Tue Nov 15 08:43:11 2011 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 10:43:11 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Next question, large area outdoor lights Message-ID: OK, since my last question was answered completely in less than an hour (thanks listers, I never thought to search amazon for the box. Turns out it was there for $22.) Here is my next question... When I move into this house, there was a large mercury vapor light that comes on at dusk and off at dawn. It's been pretty good, but here is what I was wondering. Is there a better (more efficient) option for lighting a fairly large area at night? Maybe one that comes on only with motion? Or is a MV light pretty cheap to run and I should just go with that? Thanks. Shop content- The light is mostly the path from the house to the shop. 8>) Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson From doug at dougbraun.com Tue Nov 15 12:08:20 2011 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 14:08:20 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Next question, large area outdoor lights In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I was under the impression that mercury vapor lights are pretty efficient- as good as any other type of fluorescent light. But those things (sometimes called "yardblasters") tend to send too much light all over the place, including upwards. You might be better off with some type of lighting fixture that has less total brightness, but has a better type of reflector that sends the night to where it is actually useful (e.g. not the neighbor's bedroom windows). Doug On Tue, Nov 15, 2011 at 10:43 AM, wrote: > > Is there a better (more efficient) option for lighting a fairly large area > at night? Maybe one that comes on only with motion? Or is a MV light > pretty cheap to run and I should just go with that? From darmstrong at nexicom.net Tue Nov 15 13:20:14 2011 From: darmstrong at nexicom.net (darmstrong at nexicom.net) Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 15:20:14 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Next question, large area outdoor lights Message-ID: <4ec2c97e.59d7.45283940.3fdb8c71@nexicom.net> The term used by fans of astronomy is "Full Cut Off Lights". There is a big drive to eliminate vertical light pollution. Here are links to related information: http://www.darksky.org/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=452 http://www.uwex.edu/energy/lighting_OL.html Doug Armstrong On Tuesday 15/11/2011 at 2:41 pm, Doug Braun wrote: > I was under the impression that mercury vapor lights are pretty > efficient- as good as any other type of fluorescent light. But those > things (sometimes called "yardblasters") tend to send too much light > all over the place, including upwards. You might be better off with > some type of lighting fixture that has less total brightness, but has > a better type of reflector that sends the night to where it is > actually useful (e.g. not the neighbor's bedroom windows). > > Doug > > On Tue, Nov 15, 2011 at 10:43 AM, wrote: > >> >> >> Is there a better (more efficient) option for lighting a fairly large >> area >> at night? Maybe one that comes on only with motion? Or is a MV light >> pretty cheap to run and I should just go with that? > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/darmstrong at nexicom.net From dmscheidt at gmail.com Tue Nov 15 13:30:53 2011 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 14:30:53 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Next question, large area outdoor lights In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Tue, Nov 15, 2011 at 1:08 PM, Doug Braun wrote: > I was under the impression that mercury vapor lights are pretty > efficient- as good as any other type of fluorescent light. B But those > things (sometimes called "yardblasters") tend to send too much light > all over the place, including upwards. B You might be better off with > some type of lighting fixture that has less total brightness, but has > a better type of reflector that sends the night to where it is > actually useful (e.g. not the neighbor's bedroom windows). > Mercury vapor lights are not as efficent as high pressure sodium lights, nor newer technology such as ceramic metal halide, induction lamp, and leds. The production of new fixtures and ballasts ended in the US in 2008 (I think, might be off a year or so), though new lamps continue to be available. (They'll be banned outright in the EU in a couple years.) One of the mis-features of MV lamps is that their output declines with age, because the bulb darkens, while still consuming their full electrical draw. Since I don't know what sort of fixture Eric's got, I can't comment about aim and cut off, except to say that MV fixtures ranged from basically bare bulbs to pretty good zero-light-above-horizon models. Eric: you might do well to ask your utility about their street lighting programs. Some utilities have programs where they will install a lamp, provide the electricity, and do the maintance on it, for a fixed fee. That can be less than you'd pay for just the electricity, depending on the location. -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com From cavanadd at frontier.com Tue Nov 15 20:33:10 2011 From: cavanadd at frontier.com (David C.) Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 19:33:10 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Next question, large area outdoor lights In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4EC32EF6.8090407@frontier.com> MV lights are old tech and as someone else pointed out, high pressure sodium are more efficient. However, I went with a couple of CFL floods to illuminate the area in front of my shop and I'm pretty happy with them. I'm using two outdoor rated floods in a more or less standard two lamp floodlight fixture with a photo cell. I think the floods are 23 watts each, and they put out what seems to be just about as much light as the old 175 watt MV fixture they replaced. I have been running CFL lights outdoors in protected areas (but not enclosed fixtures) fixtures for six or seven years now and haven't had any problems with them not working in cold weather. I have five or six little conventional 9 watt CFLs running in porch light fixtures on photo cells around the property and they seem to last just about forever. eric at megageek.com wrote: > OK, since my last question was answered completely in less than an hour > (thanks listers, I never thought to search amazon for the box. Turns out > it was there for $22.) > > Here is my next question... > > When I move into this house, there was a large mercury vapor light that > comes on at dusk and off at dawn. It's been pretty good, but here is what > I was wondering. > > Is there a better (more efficient) option for lighting a fairly large area > at night? Maybe one that comes on only with motion? Or is a MV light > pretty cheap to run and I should just go with that? > > Thanks. > > Shop content- The light is mostly the path from the house to the shop. > 8>) > > Eric P > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph > Waldo Emerson > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd at frontier.com From eric at megageek.com Tue Nov 15 20:52:11 2011 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 22:52:11 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] OK my last question (well, for now) Message-ID: I have a small bathroom that I would like to add a heater to. Actually, let me back up a bit. When I moved into this house, I planned on redoing most of it, so I haven't been spending money renovating things. Of course, this bathroom was cold and small, so I decided to fix it up for my GF. I completely gutted it and found there wasn't any insulation in any way (and two walls and the ceiling were exterior!) So I added nice insulation to the exterior walls when I re sheet rocked the bathroom. But now, the bathroom is even COLDER then before. Does anyone know how this could happen? So, to my real question, I wanted to mount a heater to the top of the wall, opposite the shower so it can blow hot air into it. My question is, is there a danger if the water splashes the heater? If so, is there a heater for this type of application? I'm just looking for a small electric heater. Either one that can plugged in or hardwired. TIA! Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson From pj_thomas at comcast.net Tue Nov 15 22:07:50 2011 From: pj_thomas at comcast.net (Peter J. Thomas) Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 00:07:50 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] OK my last question (well, for now) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4EC34526.8030609@comcast.net> On 11/15/2011 10:52 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote: > I have a small bathroom that I would like to add a heater to. Actually, > let me back up a bit. > > When I moved into this house, I planned on redoing most of it, so I > haven't been spending money renovating things. > > Of course, this bathroom was cold and small, so I decided to fix it up for > my GF. I completely gutted it and found there wasn't any insulation in > any way (and two walls and the ceiling were exterior!) > > So I added nice insulation to the exterior walls when I re sheet rocked > the bathroom. > > But now, the bathroom is even COLDER then before. Does anyone know how > this could happen? > > So, to my real question, I wanted to mount a heater to the top of the > wall, opposite the shower so it can blow hot air into it. My question is, > is there a danger if the water splashes the heater? > > If so, is there a heater for this type of application? > > I'm just looking for a small electric heater. Either one that can plugged > in or hardwired. Radiant floor heating in a bathroom is the way to go. It's basically an electric blanket that you put under tile. Of course it requires retiling the bathroom. Other options are electric towel warmers that mount on the wall which also warm the room. Nice because the towel is warm when you use it and will dry quickly. Another option is a heated vent; exhaust vent with a heating option. Finally, over the shower (which seems where you want the heat) a infrared heat lamp installed in a can. All of these are designed for bathrooms. > > TIA! > > Eric P > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph > Waldo Emerson > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_thomas at comcast.net From bk13 at earthlink.net Tue Nov 15 22:45:51 2011 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 21:45:51 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] OK my last question (well, for now) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4EC34E0F.2070709@earthlink.net> Eric - There are bathroom exhaust fans that have heaters built in. Since the heater is built in a bath fan, it is designed to be in a damp environment. The fans I put in a few years ago said to have on a GFCI circuit if installed in the shower. The only problem you might run into is finding one at a lower CFM rating for a small bathroom. When I looked, the heater fans started at 110 CFM. I like the Panasonic fan line. I also recommend going with something under 1 sone (sound rating). It is only a small cost difference and well worth not listening to a screaming fan. Search FV-11VH2 WhisperWarm for an example. I purchased my fans from a local electrical supply house at better pricing than the home centers. See also http://www.bathheat.com/ for more ideas. I have no previous experience with this site, but it seems to cover the options. Other links: http://www.acehardware.com/family/index.jsp?categoryId=1263718 http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Cat/Bathroom-Heaters/488/List Brian On 11/15/2011 7:52 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote: > I have a small bathroom that I would like to add a heater to. Actually, > let me back up a bit. > > When I moved into this house, I planned on redoing most of it, so I > haven't been spending money renovating things. > > Of course, this bathroom was cold and small, so I decided to fix it up for > my GF. I completely gutted it and found there wasn't any insulation in > any way (and two walls and the ceiling were exterior!) > > So I added nice insulation to the exterior walls when I re sheet rocked > the bathroom. > > But now, the bathroom is even COLDER then before. Does anyone know how > this could happen? > > So, to my real question, I wanted to mount a heater to the top of the > wall, opposite the shower so it can blow hot air into it. My question is, > is there a danger if the water splashes the heater? > > If so, is there a heater for this type of application? > > I'm just looking for a small electric heater. Either one that can plugged > in or hardwired. > > TIA! > > Eric P > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph > Waldo Emerson > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net From peterwmurray at gmail.com Wed Nov 16 08:38:20 2011 From: peterwmurray at gmail.com (Peter Murray) Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 10:38:20 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] OK my last question (well, for now) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: We re-did our upstairs hall bath a year or so ago, and put in the SunTouch heated flooring mats under tile. Not too difficult and it makes the room quite nice (though it does take a couple of hours to come up to temperature, so I recommend a thermostat with more intelligence/programmability than the manual one I initially purchased). This is a larger size mat than we purchased, but it is the same stuff: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100607100/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId= -1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 Is the room cold, or more just drafty? Might you have a gap between the floor and ceiling below that is also not insulated from the outside, and thus the floor is cold (a problem I discovered in my house)? If you amply insulated the un-insulated outside walls, I'm with you - why would the room seem colder? Is the space above insulated? -Peter On Tue, Nov 15, 2011 at 10:52 PM, wrote: > I have a small bathroom that I would like to add a heater to. Actually, > let me back up a bit. > > When I moved into this house, I planned on redoing most of it, so I > haven't been spending money renovating things. > > Of course, this bathroom was cold and small, so I decided to fix it up for > my GF. I completely gutted it and found there wasn't any insulation in > any way (and two walls and the ceiling were exterior!) > > So I added nice insulation to the exterior walls when I re sheet rocked > the bathroom. > > But now, the bathroom is even COLDER then before. Does anyone know how > this could happen? > > So, to my real question, I wanted to mount a heater to the top of the > wall, opposite the shower so it can blow hot air into it. My question is, > is there a danger if the water splashes the heater? > > If so, is there a heater for this type of application? > > I'm just looking for a small electric heater. Either one that can plugged > in or hardwired. > > TIA! > > Eric P > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph > Waldo Emerson From pethier at comcast.net Wed Nov 16 10:52:10 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 17:52:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] OK my last question (well, for now) In-Reply-To: <4EC34526.8030609@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1137138216.2244329.1321465930867.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> > Radiant floor heating in a bathroom is the way to go. It's basically > an > electric blanket that you put under tile. Of course it requires > retiling the bathroom. Maybe not. If there is a basement under the bathroom, you may be able to put in heating elements with reflectors and insulation underneath. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com From dmscheidt at gmail.com Wed Nov 16 16:08:00 2011 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 17:08:00 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] OK my last question (well, for now) In-Reply-To: <1137138216.2244329.1321465930867.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <4EC34526.8030609@comcast.net> <1137138216.2244329.1321465930867.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: On Wed, Nov 16, 2011 at 11:52 AM, wrote: >> Radiant floor heating in a bathroom is the way to go. It's basically >> an >> electric blanket that you put under tile. Of course it requires >> retiling the bathroom. > > Maybe not. B If there is a basement under the bathroom, you may be able to put in heating elements with reflectors and insulation underneath. > YOu can do that even if there's a finished space underneath. Sometimes replacing a ceiling is easier than replacing a tile floor. -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com From jniolon at bham.rr.com Mon Nov 21 18:44:30 2011 From: jniolon at bham.rr.com (John Niolon) Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 19:44:30 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] installing a helicoil Message-ID: <983A82622D7F4CE6A10B217A89FD4BB7@john5043a2d406> dumb old John.... installed a new head gasket on a Kohler 20 hp command motor... got it all put back together... all the baffles and sheet metal in place... tried to screw in the adapter for the compression gauge and stripped the dang spark plug hole threads... I've never tried this before... so is it worth it to go buy all the heli coil install stuff or just take it somewhere and let a professional do it in half the time for half the money ??? opinions ?? john I'm sarcastic... what's your superpower ? From gerrybraz at cablespeed.com Mon Nov 21 19:48:02 2011 From: gerrybraz at cablespeed.com (Gerald Brazil) Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 21:48:02 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] installing a helicoil In-Reply-To: <983A82622D7F4CE6A10B217A89FD4BB7@john5043a2d406> References: <983A82622D7F4CE6A10B217A89FD4BB7@john5043a2d406> Message-ID: <004b01cca8c1$28433770$78c9a650$@cablespeed.com> John, I'd take it to a professional machine shop. The real secret to getting an accurately fitted Helicoil is holding the work securely and having drill and tap exactly vertical. It is probably best done on a milling machine. A machine shop will do it right, you probably have a 60/40 chance.....If you screw it up you not only have the cost of a Helicoil kit but the cost of a new head. FWIW From fishplate at gmail.com Mon Nov 21 19:52:37 2011 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 21:52:37 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] installing a helicoil In-Reply-To: <983A82622D7F4CE6A10B217A89FD4BB7@john5043a2d406> References: <983A82622D7F4CE6A10B217A89FD4BB7@john5043a2d406> Message-ID: On Mon, Nov 21, 2011 at 8:44 PM, John Niolon wrote: > I've never tried this before... so is it worth it to go buy all the heli coil > install stuff or just take it somewhere and let a professional do it in half > the time for half the money ??? Back in the day, when I was a professional schmieraffe, we used to have VWs come in all the time with a popped spark plug. The cheap fix was to grease up the tap to catch the chips, cut new threads, turn it over a few times to blow the swarf out, and cram an insert in it. Putting a HeliCoil in isn't hard, if you're careful. And with an alloy head, you probably wouldn't need to pull it off again, unless you're really particular. But you have to ask yourself how many more times do you expect to do this, vs. the desire to acquire a new tool and a new skill. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From ejrussell at mebtel.net Mon Nov 21 19:58:01 2011 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell) Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 21:58:01 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] installing a helicoil In-Reply-To: <983A82622D7F4CE6A10B217A89FD4BB7@john5043a2d406> References: <983A82622D7F4CE6A10B217A89FD4BB7@john5043a2d406> Message-ID: In the Olden Days one had to buy a large Heli Coil kit with assorted sizes/taps, etc. Now-a-days one can buy small kits of specific size thread repairs. And Heli Coil is a brand name - there are other more 'generic' (less expensive) thread repair kits, too. Eric Russell Mebane, NC http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Niolon" To: "shop-talk" Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 8:44 PM Subject: [Shop-talk] installing a helicoil > is it worth it to go buy all the heli coil install stuff or just take it > somewhere and let a professional do it in half the time for half the money From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 21 20:31:27 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 19:31:27 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] installing a helicoil In-Reply-To: <004b01cca8c1$28433770$78c9a650$@cablespeed.com> References: <983A82622D7F4CE6A10B217A89FD4BB7@john5043a2d406> <004b01cca8c1$28433770$78c9a650$@cablespeed.com> Message-ID: <017a01cca8c7$37fbf840$0201a8c0@randall> > you probably have a 60/40 > chance.. IMO if you can tap a hole, you can install a Helicoil. I'm not particularly good at working free-hand, and I've never screwed one up enough to have to take other measures. Ruined an insert once, but only because I didn't turn the tap deep enough. (Was threading a starter bolt hole that ran through the mounting flange and into the bellhousing; didn't realize how thick the flange was. Bolt jammed against the insert and came out with it attached.) > ...If you > screw it up you not only have the cost of a Helicoil kit but > the cost of a new head. There are inserts available that will work in a hole too big for a Helicoil. For example: http://www.timesert.com/html/bigsert_sparkplug.html -- Randall From mistertwo at sbcglobal.net Mon Nov 21 21:06:24 2011 From: mistertwo at sbcglobal.net (Rand E) Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 20:06:24 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Shop-talk] installing a helicoil In-Reply-To: <017a01cca8c7$37fbf840$0201a8c0@randall> References: <983A82622D7F4CE6A10B217A89FD4BB7@john5043a2d406> <004b01cca8c1$28433770$78c9a650$@cablespeed.com> <017a01cca8c7$37fbf840$0201a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <1321934784.5598.YahooMailNeo@web82403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I was going to suggest the Timeserts but you beat me to it. Check Amazon. They had the best prices when I looked for one of these. I ended up getting them at the local Fastenal dealer (who also had the helicoils) but I think Amazon would have been quicker. Randy From: Randall >To: 'shop-talk' >Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 9:31 PM >Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] installing a helicoil > >> you probably have a 60/40 >> chance.. > >IMO if you can tap a hole, you can install a Helicoil. I'm not particularly >good at working free-hand, and I've never screwed one up enough to have to >take other measures. Ruined an insert once, but only because I didn't turn >the tap deep enough. (Was threading a starter bolt hole that ran through >the mounting flange and into the bellhousing; didn't realize how thick the >flange was. Bolt jammed against the insert and came out with it attached.) > >> ...If you >> screw it up you not only have the cost of a Helicoil kit but >> the cost of a new head. > >There are inserts available that will work in a hole too big for a Helicoil. >For example: >http://www.timesert.com/html/bigsert_sparkplug.html > >-- Randall From neiljsherry at talktalk.net Tue Nov 22 01:02:32 2011 From: neiljsherry at talktalk.net (Neil Sherry) Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 08:02:32 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] installing a helicoil In-Reply-To: <1321934784.5598.YahooMailNeo@web82403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <983A82622D7F4CE6A10B217A89FD4BB7@john5043a2d406> <004b01cca8c1$28433770$78c9a650$@cablespeed.com> <017a01cca8c7$37fbf840$0201a8c0@randall> <1321934784.5598.YahooMailNeo@web82403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4ECB5718.1070709@talktalk.net> Machine shop where I worked didn't use Helicoils for spark plug holes - we had shouldered tubular inserts. Admitedly, they required a bigger hole to be drilled & tapped, but as long as the head had enough room they were less likely to give problems... Neil On 22/11/2011 04:06, Rand E wrote: > I was going to suggest the Timeserts but you beat me to it. > Check Amazon. > They had the best prices when I looked for one of these. I ended up getting > them at the local Fastenal dealer (who also had the helicoils) but I think > Amazon would have been quicker. > > Randy > > > From: Randall > >> To: 'shop-talk' >> Sent: > Monday, November 21, 2011 9:31 PM >> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] installing a > helicoil >>> you probably have a 60/40 >>> chance.. >> IMO if you can tap a > hole, you can install a Helicoil. I'm not particularly >> good at working > free-hand, and I've never screwed one up enough to have to >> take other > measures. Ruined an insert once, but only because I didn't turn >> the tap deep > enough. (Was threading a starter bolt hole that ran through >> the mounting > flange and into the bellhousing; didn't realize how thick the >> flange was. > Bolt jammed against the insert and came out with it attached.) >>> ...If you >>> screw it up you not only have the cost of a Helicoil kit but >>> the cost > of a new head. >> There are inserts available that will work in a hole too > big for a Helicoil. >> For example: >> http://www.timesert.com/html/bigsert_sparkplug.html >> >> -- Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/neiljsherry at talktalk.net From cavanadd at frontier.com Wed Nov 23 20:26:11 2011 From: cavanadd at frontier.com (David C.) Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 19:26:11 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Shipping equipment Message-ID: <4ECDB953.9090900@frontier.com> I'm probably going to purchase a piece of vintage woodworking equipment (shop content), a Millbury tenoner to be exact. It weighs about 450 pounds crated, and it's in West Virginia and I'm in the Puget Sound area. I'm going to need to have it shipped, as it's the wrong time of year for a 4500 mile road trip. There have been several references in the past to freight brokerage services that in effect take bids on shipping your goods. Can anyone point me to these businesses? Thanks Dave From peterwmurray at gmail.com Wed Nov 23 20:38:57 2011 From: peterwmurray at gmail.com (Peter Murray) Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 22:38:57 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Shipping equipment In-Reply-To: <4ECDB953.9090900@frontier.com> References: <4ECDB953.9090900@frontier.com> Message-ID: In the recent thread (two weeks ago), the following were recommended: http://www.forwardair.com/ http://www.freightquote.com/ http://www.uship.com/ http://www.freightcenter.com/ -Peter On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 10:26 PM, David C. wrote: > I'm probably going to purchase a piece of vintage woodworking equipment > (shop content), a Millbury tenoner to be exact. It weighs about 450 pounds > crated, and it's in West Virginia and I'm in the Puget Sound area. I'm > going to need to have it shipped, as it's the wrong time of year for a 4500 > mile road trip. > > There have been several references in the past to freight brokerage services > that in effect take bids on shipping your goods. Can anyone point me to > these businesses? > > Thanks > Dave > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray at gmail.com From eric at megageek.com Thu Nov 24 08:00:11 2011 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 10:00:11 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Shipping equipment In-Reply-To: <4ECDB953.9090900@frontier.com> Message-ID: I've had great luck with... http://www.freightcenter.com/ They give you multiple quotes for all the major (and many smaller) companies that make the route. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson "David C." Sent by: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net 11/23/2011 22:03 To 'shop-talk' cc Subject [Shop-talk] Shipping equipment I'm probably going to purchase a piece of vintage woodworking equipment (shop content), a Millbury tenoner to be exact. It weighs about 450 pounds crated, and it's in West Virginia and I'm in the Puget Sound area. I'm going to need to have it shipped, as it's the wrong time of year for a 4500 mile road trip. There have been several references in the past to freight brokerage services that in effect take bids on shipping your goods. Can anyone point me to these businesses? Thanks Dave _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eric at megageek.com From eric at megageek.com Thu Nov 24 08:19:18 2011 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 10:19:18 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] What I'm thankful for Message-ID: Each year on this day I think about all the things in my life I'm thankful for. Each year, this list is right up there! Happy Thanksgiving to all. Thank you for making this virtual hang out so informative. For those of you internationally, each year on this day Americans get together and eat huge meals, wait, we do that almost every day. Oh never mind. 8>) HAVE A GREAT THANKSGIVING ALL!!!! Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson From eric at megageek.com Thu Nov 24 08:19:40 2011 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 10:19:40 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop question (but wood working) Message-ID: I'm not sure if a wood working question is appropriate here, so let me know if I'm stepping outside the allowed content. I'm sure someone here has an answer however. OK, I have a nice knife block with knife set. One of the knives was replaced with a better one. The problem is that the new knife doesn't fit in the slot on the block. Does anyone know how to cut/expand one of those slots in a block of wood. I need to go about 7" deep? Failing any other solution, I was thinking of cutting the block in half with a bandsaw, routing the slot, then gluing it together. This is not my first choice however. Thanks guys and have a happy thanksgiving! Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson From neiljsherry at talktalk.net Thu Nov 24 08:55:19 2011 From: neiljsherry at talktalk.net (Neil Sherry) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 15:55:19 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop question (but wood working) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4ECE68E7.90603@talktalk.net> Grind the knife down... On 24/11/2011 15:19, eric at megageek.com wrote: > > Does anyone know how to cut/expand one of those slots in a block of wood. > I need to go about 7" deep? From darmstrong at nexicom.net Thu Nov 24 08:58:47 2011 From: darmstrong at nexicom.net (darmstrong at nexicom.net) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 10:58:47 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop question (but wood working) Message-ID: <4ece69b7.59d7.4d07d940.51df30db@nexicom.net> Is the block open at the bottom? What about removing the blade from a hacksaw / large coping saw & reassemble it through the slot. Cut a few slots and remove them with a homemade chisel. From a screwdriver perhaps? Doug Armstrong On Thursday 24/11/2011 at 10:43 am, eric at megageek.com wrote: > I'm not sure if a wood working question is appropriate here, so let me > know if I'm stepping outside the allowed content. > > I'm sure someone here has an answer however. > > OK, I have a nice knife block with knife set. One of the knives was > replaced with a better one. The problem is that the new knife doesn't > fit > in the slot on the block. > > Does anyone know how to cut/expand one of those slots in a block of > wood. > I need to go about 7" deep? > > Failing any other solution, I was thinking of cutting the block in > half > with a bandsaw, routing the slot, then gluing it together. This is not > my > first choice however. > > Thanks guys and have a happy thanksgiving! > > Eric P > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a > rational > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph > Waldo Emerson > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/darmstrong at nexicom.net From arvidj at visi.com Thu Nov 24 09:02:02 2011 From: arvidj at visi.com (Arvid Jedlicka) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 10:02:02 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Shipping equipment In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <092C5EA87A544FB38A88261313731E27@HP62011> Following Eric's advice I called Freight Center and talked to Kevin - x1024. He was very helpful. My deal with the seller fell thru but the shipping would have been very straight forward with Kevin's help. -----Original Message----- From: eric at megageek.com Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2011 9:00 AM To: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Shipping equipment I've had great luck with... http://www.freightcenter.com/ They give you multiple quotes for all the major (and many smaller) companies that make the route. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson "David C." Sent by: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net 11/23/2011 22:03 To 'shop-talk' cc Subject [Shop-talk] Shipping equipment I'm probably going to purchase a piece of vintage woodworking equipment (shop content), a Millbury tenoner to be exact. It weighs about 450 pounds crated, and it's in West Virginia and I'm in the Puget Sound area. I'm going to need to have it shipped, as it's the wrong time of year for a 4500 mile road trip. There have been several references in the past to freight brokerage services that in effect take bids on shipping your goods. Can anyone point me to these businesses? Thanks Dave _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eric at megageek.com _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/arvidj at visi.com From fishplate at gmail.com Thu Nov 24 09:03:17 2011 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 11:03:17 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop question (but wood working) In-Reply-To: <4ece69b7.59d7.4d07d940.51df30db@nexicom.net> References: <4ece69b7.59d7.4d07d940.51df30db@nexicom.net> Message-ID: On Thu, Nov 24, 2011 at 10:58 AM, wrote: > What about removing the blade from a > hacksaw / large coping saw & reassemble it through the slot. Cut a > few slots and remove them with a homemade chisel. I like that one too... -- Jeff From arvidj at visi.com Thu Nov 24 09:05:18 2011 From: arvidj at visi.com (Arvid Jedlicka) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 10:05:18 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop question (but wood working) In-Reply-To: <4ece69b7.59d7.4d07d940.51df30db@nexicom.net> References: <4ece69b7.59d7.4d07d940.51df30db@nexicom.net> Message-ID: <99E2FCD849F1475E8D016957BBCDC9A1@HP62011> Add a finely crafted one inch trim block to the top of the block? Maybe a different color wood so it looks like it was designed that way rather than added on after the fact? On Thursday 24/11/2011 at 10:43 am, eric at megageek.com wrote: > I'm not sure if a wood working question is appropriate here, so let me > know if I'm stepping outside the allowed content. > > I'm sure someone here has an answer however. > > OK, I have a nice knife block with knife set. One of the knives was > replaced with a better one. The problem is that the new knife doesn't > fit > in the slot on the block. > > Does anyone know how to cut/expand one of those slots in a block of > wood. > I need to go about 7" deep? > > Failing any other solution, I was thinking of cutting the block in > half > with a bandsaw, routing the slot, then gluing it together. This is not > my > first choice however. > > Thanks guys and have a happy thanksgiving! > > Eric P > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a > rational > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph > Waldo Emerson > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/darmstrong at nexicom.net _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/arvidj at visi.com From fishplate at gmail.com Thu Nov 24 09:03:58 2011 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 11:03:58 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop question (but wood working) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Thu, Nov 24, 2011 at 10:19 AM, wrote: > I'm not sure if a wood working question is appropriate here, so let me > know if I'm stepping outside the allowed content. You'll be using a power tool in your shop, right? > Does anyone know how to cut/expand one of those slots in a block of wood. > I need to go about 7" deep? How about a drill? McMaster-Carr, for instance, has many long-length, small diameter drills. Their # 2986A51 is a 1/8" by 12" drill...you would need to draw it out and clear it every inch or so, But I would think that you could carefully drill a hole (or row of holes) right next to the end of the slot and then somehow clear the remaining material with a sharp object - maybe even the knife that will fit the hole? From strovato at optonline.net Thu Nov 24 09:52:00 2011 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 11:52:00 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop question (but wood working) Message-ID: <0LV6005EAC9RJ950@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Is the problem that the knife is too long, too wide, or what? Also, how much material are we talking about removing? You could use a file if it's not a lot. There is such a thing as a power file. Check this: http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?PRODUCT_ID=ATS5095 I have never used one. Never even seen one in person. And I have no idea how long of a file it could take. Of course, it costs more than a new knife block. -Steve Trovato strovato at optonline.net At 10:19 AM 11/24/2011, eric at megageek.com wrote: >I'm not sure if a wood working question is appropriate here, so let me >know if I'm stepping outside the allowed content. > >I'm sure someone here has an answer however. > >OK, I have a nice knife block with knife set. One of the knives was >replaced with a better one. The problem is that the new knife doesn't fit >in the slot on the block. > >Does anyone know how to cut/expand one of those slots in a block of wood. >I need to go about 7" deep? > >Failing any other solution, I was thinking of cutting the block in half >with a bandsaw, routing the slot, then gluing it together. This is not my >first choice however. > >Thanks guys and have a happy thanksgiving! > >Eric P >"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational >being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph >Waldo Emerson >_______________________________________________ > >Shop-talk at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.96 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/strovato at optonline.net From arvidj at visi.com Thu Nov 24 10:16:14 2011 From: arvidj at visi.com (Arvid Jedlicka) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 11:16:14 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop question (but wood working) In-Reply-To: <0LV6005EAC9RJ950@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> References: <0LV6005EAC9RJ950@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Message-ID: Don't have that one but have one like it. Works for fine detailed work and is very dependent on how sharp the file is. The files are quite small. Serious material removal is not in its play book. -----Original Message----- From: Steven Trovato Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2011 10:52 AM To: eric at megageek.com ; shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Shop question (but wood working) Is the problem that the knife is too long, too wide, or what? Also, how much material are we talking about removing? You could use a file if it's not a lot. There is such a thing as a power file. Check this: http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?PRODUCT_ID=ATS5095 I have never used one. Never even seen one in person. And I have no idea how long of a file it could take. Of course, it costs more than a new knife block. -Steve Trovato strovato at optonline.net From bk13 at earthlink.net Thu Nov 24 10:24:00 2011 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 09:24:00 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Milwaukee vs Dewalt cordless Hex Impact Driver Message-ID: <4ECE7DB0.9060300@earthlink.net> I'm getting a cordless impact driver for myself tomorrow. The big orange box has good deals on a Dewalt combo (DCK236C for $149). But I also noticed they have special pricing on Milwaukee with the driver for $149 or a combo with a hammer drill for $199. Question for the list - How does Milwaukee compare to Dewalt? Both these tools are 18V. The Milwaukee uses Lithium batteries, which I understand to be better that NiCad, hence a price difference. I've used 12V Dewalt drills for about 15 years and am happy with my Dewalt power tools, though I occasionally exceed the capabilities of my 12V drill. Milwaukee is a brand I've heard of, but don't know how they compare to Dewalt. A plus for Dewalt is their battery design stays the same, so if I need new batteries, next black Friday I can just pick up on of the $99 drills with two batteries. I read some reviews on Milwaukee changing their battery design to not be backward compatible, which is a concern. This is for advanced home use, so battery life in terms of lasting for years of proper use is also important. Thanks, Brian From pj_thomas at comcast.net Thu Nov 24 10:33:18 2011 From: pj_thomas at comcast.net (Peter J. Thomas) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 12:33:18 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop question (but wood working) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4ECE7FDE.7090903@comcast.net> On 11/24/2011 10:19 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote: > I'm not sure if a wood working question is appropriate here, so let me > know if I'm stepping outside the allowed content. > > I'm sure someone here has an answer however. > > OK, I have a nice knife block with knife set. One of the knives was > replaced with a better one. The problem is that the new knife doesn't fit > in the slot on the block. > > Does anyone know how to cut/expand one of those slots in a block of wood. > I need to go about 7" deep? > > Failing any other solution, I was thinking of cutting the block in half > with a bandsaw, routing the slot, then gluing it together. This is not my > first choice however. > > Thanks guys and have a happy thanksgiving! Your approach is probably the easiest and the way the block was made in the first place. Only issue I see it the kerf of the saw blade will make the block narrower; don't know if this is an issue for you. Only other approach is to use a mortising chisel. Not the power mortising kind that like a drill press, but the old fashioned hammer and chisel. http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/sorby18sashmortisechisel.aspx 1/8 inch is the narrowest I've seen. That might be too thick? If you have a piece of bar stock the right thickness and a bench grinder you could make your own. Grind a 45 degree bevel on the end and sharpen with oil stones or emery cloth. A mortising chisel is different form other chisels. If you lay the mortising chisel down the bevel is on the right or left side, not parallel to the table like other chisels. The idea is to widen the slot a fraction of an inch at a time by pounding the chisel in. You can also deepen the slot with this kind of chisel. Peter T. > > Eric P > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph > Waldo Emerson > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_thomas at comcast.net From kennedybc at comcast.net Thu Nov 24 11:10:05 2011 From: kennedybc at comcast.net (Brian Kennedy) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 10:10:05 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] New garden tractor Message-ID: My brother in law in VA is thinking about replacing his old Toro riding mower. He has a hilly lawn, lots of trees. He uses it to pull bushes and aerate the lawn. So, he's looking at older John Deeres because he thinks the newer ones are not as high a quality. I've seen lots of discussions on this subject over the years, so I figure some of you guys can give him some good advice. Brian K. From kennedybc at comcast.net Thu Nov 24 11:12:14 2011 From: kennedybc at comcast.net (Brian Kennedy) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 10:12:14 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Ceiling tiles Message-ID: <15B1661E-8AC8-4156-8940-C3BF89F9B532@comcast.net> My wife's family has a ocean front cottage on the Outer Banks of NC. So, lots of hurricanes and frequent water leaks. They're looking at replacing the 1' x1' ceiling tiles which are frequently damage by water. Does anyone have thoughts about the tiles that are advertised as waterproof? Brian K From dmscheidt at gmail.com Thu Nov 24 11:12:33 2011 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 12:12:33 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop question (but wood working) In-Reply-To: <4ECE7FDE.7090903@comcast.net> References: <4ECE7FDE.7090903@comcast.net> Message-ID: On Thu, Nov 24, 2011 at 11:33 AM, Peter J. Thomas wrote: > On 11/24/2011 10:19 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote: >> >> I'm not sure if a wood working question is appropriate here, so let me >> know if I'm stepping outside the allowed content. >> >> I'm sure someone here has an answer however. >> >> OK, I have a nice knife block with knife set. B One of the knives was >> replaced with a better one. B The problem is that the new knife doesn't fit >> in the slot on the block. >> >> Does anyone know how to cut/expand one of those slots in a block of wood. >> I need to go about 7" deep? >> >> Failing any other solution, I was thinking of cutting the block in half >> with a bandsaw, routing the slot, then gluing it together. B This is not my >> first choice however. >> >> Thanks guys and have a happy thanksgiving! > > Your approach is probably the easiest and the way the block was made in the > first place. B Only issue I see it the kerf of the saw blade will make the > block narrower; don't know if this is an issue for you. > > Only other approach is to use a mortising chisel. B Not the power mortising > kind that like a drill press, but the old fashioned hammer and chisel. > B http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/sorby18sashmortisechisel.aspx > > 1/8 inch is the narrowest I've seen. B That might be too thick? B If you have > a piece of bar stock the right thickness and a bench grinder you could make > your own. B Grind a 45 degree bevel on the end and sharpen with oil stones or > emery cloth. B A mortising chisel is different form other chisels. B If you > lay the mortising chisel down the bevel is on the right or left side, not > parallel to the table like other chisels. B The idea is to widen the slot a > fraction of an inch at a time by pounding the chisel in. B You can also > deepen the slot with this kind of chisel. > 1/8 is probably the narrowest practical size. They'd bend if they're thinner. The antique ones I've seen had a pretty narrow primary edge, maybe 20 degrees, with a steeper angle at the very tip. The shallow angle lets the chisel go deeper with every hammer blow, and the steep secondary angle means the tip doesn't break off. I think this might be my method. -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com From bk13 at earthlink.net Thu Nov 24 11:18:21 2011 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 10:18:21 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop question (but wood working) In-Reply-To: <4ECE7FDE.7090903@comcast.net> References: <4ECE7FDE.7090903@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4ECE8A6D.5000000@earthlink.net> I second Peter's idea of the mortising chisel, especially if you don't need to go the full depth of the slot. Another option is a reciprocating saw with a blade that will not bottom out in the hole. If you want more control and a slower cut, use a pruning saw. Then use a file to smooth the edge. Put some tape on the side edges of the file so only the side will cut so the slot stays looking nice. Brian On 11/24/2011 9:33 AM, Peter J. Thomas wrote: > On 11/24/2011 10:19 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote: >> I'm not sure if a wood working question is appropriate here, so let me >> know if I'm stepping outside the allowed content. >> >> I'm sure someone here has an answer however. >> >> OK, I have a nice knife block with knife set. One of the knives was >> replaced with a better one. The problem is that the new knife >> doesn't fit >> in the slot on the block. >> >> Does anyone know how to cut/expand one of those slots in a block of >> wood. >> I need to go about 7" deep? >> >> Failing any other solution, I was thinking of cutting the block in half >> with a bandsaw, routing the slot, then gluing it together. This is >> not my >> first choice however. >> >> Thanks guys and have a happy thanksgiving! > Your approach is probably the easiest and the way the block was made > in the first place. Only issue I see it the kerf of the saw blade > will make the block narrower; don't know if this is an issue for you. > > Only other approach is to use a mortising chisel. Not the power > mortising kind that like a drill press, but the old fashioned hammer > and chisel. > http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/sorby18sashmortisechisel.aspx > > 1/8 inch is the narrowest I've seen. That might be too thick? If you > have a piece of bar stock the right thickness and a bench grinder you > could make your own. Grind a 45 degree bevel on the end and sharpen > with oil stones or emery cloth. A mortising chisel is different form > other chisels. If you lay the mortising chisel down the bevel is on > the right or left side, not parallel to the table like other chisels. > The idea is to widen the slot a fraction of an inch at a time by > pounding the chisel in. You can also deepen the slot with this kind > of chisel. > > Peter T. >> >> Eric P >> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a >> rational >> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph >> Waldo Emerson >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_thomas at comcast.net > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net From arvidj at visi.com Thu Nov 24 11:30:55 2011 From: arvidj at visi.com (Arvid Jedlicka) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 12:30:55 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] New garden tractor In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9AC8F8632E8F40AA88CD950986C66867@HP62011> My person experience with a "bought new in 2001" JD X595. Excellent "garden tractor" -- if that is what you call something with a 24 hp diesel motor in it -- IMHO. Loader, snow blower, mower, aerator, etc. and no problems. Just simple routine maintenance. But somewhere along the line JD changed the model numbers on the machines. If you buy a "5xx" series machine now you get an machine that is not nearly what I have. You need to buy a "7xx" series machine to get exactly what the "5xx" was 10 years ago. Short answer ... it depends on what make, model and year he is looking at. If I were buying new the 1026R really looks nice. Regretfully the price reflects just how proud JD is of the machine ;-} -----Original Message----- From: Brian Kennedy Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2011 12:10 PM To: Shop Talk Subject: [Shop-talk] New garden tractor My brother in law in VA is thinking about replacing his old Toro riding mower. He has a hilly lawn, lots of trees. He uses it to pull bushes and aerate the lawn. So, he's looking at older John Deeres because he thinks the newer ones are not as high a quality. I've seen lots of discussions on this subject over the years, so I figure some of you guys can give him some good advice. Brian K. _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/arvidj at visi.com From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Nov 24 12:04:52 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 11:04:52 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Milwaukee vs Dewalt cordless Hex Impact Driver In-Reply-To: <4ECE7DB0.9060300@earthlink.net> References: <4ECE7DB0.9060300@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <045201ccaadb$f2b54ef0$0201a8c0@randall> > Question for the list - How does Milwaukee compare to Dewalt? Not strictly applicable, but I was considerably less than happy with the only Milwaukee I ever bought. It was a professional grade, corded 1/2" drill, over $200 in 1985 or so (including the angle drive). Never worked right even after being sent in twice under warranty. The chuck had a stiff spot where it almost couldn't be turned by hand; and the speed control would occasionally go full speed regardless of how far the trigger was pulled. The third time they actually fixed it, and charged me another $60 as the warranty had expired just a few days before I took it in. When I protested, they offered to refund the repair charge if I would give them the drill. By contrast, my cheap Ryobi cordless has performed flawlessly for some 20 years, except for occasional battery replacement and not always being big enough for the job. Ryobi changed their battery design and no longer carry batteries to fit my drill, but they are still available 3rd party (or I can have the packs rebuilt with new cells). -- Randall From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com Thu Nov 24 14:03:32 2011 From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott Hall) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 16:03:32 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Milwaukee vs Dewalt cordless Hex Impact Driver In-Reply-To: <4ECE7DB0.9060300@earthlink.net> References: <4ECE7DB0.9060300@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <4ECEB124.5040101@gmail.com> I have 18v Milwaukee: drill, circular saw, 'Hatchet', flashlight, and impact wrench. All of them work very well at their intended purpose. I have eight batteries. All of them are dead, and I cannot use any of the tools because I refused to buy more battery packs and haven't gotten around to finding someone to replace the cells, or find someplace to source the cells so that I can do it. Two of the packs lasted two charges each. I wonder if maybe my usage was an issue--I figure no way could they die that fast unless I treated them wrong. I discharge them on the tool, then fully charge them on the charger, then store them inside. It may be months before an individual pack might get used again. I wonder if that's bad for it. I like the tools, but I won't buy any more Milwaukee tools until someone convinces me I killed the packs (and how to stop killing them) or that Milwaukee has improved radically with their batteries. On 11/24/2011 12:24 PM, Brian Kemp wrote: > I'm getting a cordless impact driver for myself tomorrow. The big > orange box has good deals on a Dewalt combo (DCK236C for $149). But I > also noticed they have special pricing on Milwaukee with the driver > for $149 or a combo with a hammer drill for $199. > > Question for the list - How does Milwaukee compare to Dewalt? Both > these tools are 18V. The Milwaukee uses Lithium batteries, which I > understand to be better that NiCad, hence a price difference. I've > used 12V Dewalt drills for about 15 years and am happy with my Dewalt > power tools, though I occasionally exceed the capabilities of my 12V > drill. Milwaukee is a brand I've heard of, but don't know how they > compare to Dewalt. > > A plus for Dewalt is their battery design stays the same, so if I need > new batteries, next black Friday I can just pick up on of the $99 > drills with two batteries. I read some reviews on Milwaukee changing > their battery design to not be backward compatible, which is a concern. > > This is for advanced home use, so battery life in terms of lasting for > years of proper use is also important. From wmc_st at xxiii.com Thu Nov 24 14:48:42 2011 From: wmc_st at xxiii.com (Wayne) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 16:48:42 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Milwaukee vs Dewalt cordless Hex Impact Driver In-Reply-To: <4ECE7DB0.9060300@earthlink.net> References: <4ECE7DB0.9060300@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <4ECEBBBA.7030806@xxiii.com> On 11/24/2011 12:24 PM, Brian Kemp wrote: > I'm getting a cordless impact driver for myself tomorrow. The big orange > box has good deals on a Dewalt combo (DCK236C for $149). But I also > noticed they have special pricing on Milwaukee with the driver for $149 I'm a big fan of DeWalt.. Have two 12V drills and a 10" miter saw. I've had the first drill since sometime in the mid 1990s, and it's survived a fall from atop a 12 foot ladder and will punch a 1" spade bit and even larger hole saws through wood, and still going strong. It's small, light and nicely balanced. I can dangle it off one finger under the trigger and it's perfectly balanced and will stay put. It will do big jobs, and it's also small enough to get under the dash of a car for stereo installs and other tight quarters. Love the thing. Got another one on clearance sale 2 years ago for only $75 with two batteries. I've used a friend's 18V DeWalt impact drill at work too, and it's a nice piece. But I think the "more voltage is better" is BS for many jobs. -Wayne From eric at megageek.com Thu Nov 24 16:37:09 2011 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 18:37:09 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Milwaukee vs Dewalt cordless Hex Impact Driver In-Reply-To: <4ECEBBBA.7030806@xxiii.com> Message-ID: I want to chime in here with my $0.02. I love my Dewalt 18v kit. I've added to it over the years and it is still going strong. I'm pretty tough on tools. I did have to replace some batteries, but they were almost 10 years old. As for Milwaukee, I only have their inspection camera so I can't comment really. However, a few times I've used the camera, and it didn't seem to do as good a job as I expected. I know you didn't ask, but I wanted to add that my buddy sent me a B&D 24v kit when I was in Iraq. It worked really nice and I still use it in the home. I did have to fix the trigger on it once, but it wasn't hard to do. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Nov 24 17:25:47 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 16:25:47 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Milwaukee vs Dewalt cordless Hex Impact Driver In-Reply-To: <4ECEB124.5040101@gmail.com> References: <4ECE7DB0.9060300@earthlink.net> <4ECEB124.5040101@gmail.com> Message-ID: <046801ccab08$c741ad40$0201a8c0@randall> > Two of the packs lasted two charges each. I wonder if maybe my usage > was an issue-- Lots of people fixate on the "memory effect" and try to run their battery packs all the way down. This is the worst possible usage for a NiCd battery pack! It is far better to recharge the pack sooner rather than later. The problem is that the individual cells don't have exactly matched capacities and so there is always one cell that runs down a bit sooner than the others. If you continue using the pack at that point, that one cell will have the voltage across it reversed, which causes a NiCd cell to bridge and short internally. And at only 1.2v per cell, it can be hard to judge when the pack voltage is down enough to reverse one cell. The much publicized "memory effect" only shows up if you charge and discharge the cell by _exactly_ the same amount _every_ time; and also only if you have an over-sensitive voltage monitor (trying to prevent one cell from getting reversed). That is why NiCd batteries had been in use for many decades before the problem was discovered, in a satellite where the charge and discharge times were always identical. NiCads also self-discharge to some extent, so it is best to refresh the charge occasionally even if the pack hasn't been used. My Ryobi charger also refuses to charge packs that have self-discharged (even though it shouldn't harm the pack) so I sometimes have to charge them a bit externally before it will start charging. -- Randall From dmscheidt at gmail.com Thu Nov 24 17:33:36 2011 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 18:33:36 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Milwaukee vs Dewalt cordless Hex Impact Driver In-Reply-To: <046801ccab08$c741ad40$0201a8c0@randall> References: <4ECE7DB0.9060300@earthlink.net> <4ECEB124.5040101@gmail.com> <046801ccab08$c741ad40$0201a8c0@randall> Message-ID: On Thu, Nov 24, 2011 at 6:25 PM, Randall wrote: >> Two of the packs lasted two charges each. B I wonder if maybe my usage >> was an issue-- > > Lots of people fixate on the "memory effect" and try to run their battery > packs all the way down. B This is the worst possible usage for a NiCd battery > pack! B It is far better to recharge the pack sooner rather than later. > There aren't NiCds in any 18V drill, are there? They're all NiMH or LiIon, as far as I've seen. LiIon have their own problems, and will die of old age, even at low cycle counts. I've used an a bused an 18V milwaukee LiIon with no problems about battery life, in two years. (maybe three?) I'm not as impresed with the driver that came with the drill, but I'm generally not impressed with any cordless impact driver. If I drove more lag bolts, maybe I would be. -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Nov 24 19:26:16 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 18:26:16 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Milwaukee vs Dewalt cordless Hex Impact Driver In-Reply-To: References: <4ECE7DB0.9060300@earthlink.net><4ECEB124.5040101@gmail.com><046801ccab08$c741ad40$0201a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <047201ccab19$9c9b7e70$0201a8c0@randall> > There aren't NiCds in any 18V drill, are there? They're all NiMH or > LiIon, as far as I've seen. I don't know what Scott has, he didn't say. But I believe the DeWalt that Brian was asking about is NiCd, and a quick Google turned up lots of other brands that still offer NiCd. Milwaukee certainly used to make them, even if they don't offer them today. Eg, http://fwd4.me/0hP6 -- Randall From nick at landform.co.uk Fri Nov 25 02:53:18 2011 From: nick at landform.co.uk (nick brearley) Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 09:53:18 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] Milwaukee vs Dewalt cordless Hex Impact Driver In-Reply-To: <4ECEBBBA.7030806@xxiii.com> References: <4ECE7DB0.9060300@earthlink.net> <4ECEBBBA.7030806@xxiii.com> Message-ID: <4ECF658E.2050706@landform.co.uk> On 24/11/2011 21:48, Wayne wrote: > But I think the "more voltage is better" is BS for many jobs. > > Couple of years ago I bought a Bosch 10.8v li-ion screwdriver. Great little tool, so much so that this year I bought the drill and impact driver from the same range. The advantage is that they are genuinely pocketable and the performance/size ratio is very high. The result is that I go from these tools to 240v and the Dewalt 14.4v drill stays in the box unless the hammer facility is needed. Nick Brearley From shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org Fri Nov 25 09:56:08 2011 From: shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org (shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org) Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 11:56:08 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Milwaukee vs Dewalt cordless Hex Impact Driver In-Reply-To: <4ECF658E.2050706@landform.co.uk> References: <4ECE7DB0.9060300@earthlink.net> <4ECEBBBA.7030806@xxiii.com> <4ECF658E.2050706@landform.co.uk> Message-ID: The December 2011 Popular Mechanics has a review of 12V power drills. They tested 13 brands, including the DeWalt and milwawkee: The DeWalt DCD710S, it got a top rating of 5. $160 cut 196 1/2" holes and drove 171 2.5 inch screws on a charge. They didn't seem to dislike anything about it except the that the battery "attachment had a fair amount of play". Milwaukee M12 2410-22 was rated "best overall" and was the only other drill with a rating of 5. $150, cut 161 1/2" holes and drove 171 2.5" screws. Interesting, that they drove the same number of screws on a charge, but not the same number of holes; perhaps, the holes require more work (power). The said it was very "robust" and the only ding they came up with was that the "battery could use a better grip surface". I have Makita 18V, so I can't comment on either brand, but I figured it was another data point to share. I cut out the article and can scan it if someone wants to see it for the other brand ratings. - Ian From dmscheidt at gmail.com Fri Nov 25 12:15:43 2011 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 13:15:43 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Milwaukee vs Dewalt cordless Hex Impact Driver In-Reply-To: References: <4ECE7DB0.9060300@earthlink.net> <4ECEBBBA.7030806@xxiii.com> <4ECF658E.2050706@landform.co.uk> Message-ID: On Fri, Nov 25, 2011 at 10:56 AM, wrote: > The December 2011 Popular Mechanics has a review of 12V power drills. B They > tested 13 brands, including the DeWalt and milwawkee: > The DeWalt DCD710S, it got a top rating of 5. B $160 cut 196 1/2" holes and > drove 171 2.5 inch screws on a charge. B They didn't seem to dislike anything > about it except the that the battery "attachment had a fair amount of play". > > > Milwaukee M12 2410-22 was rated "best overall" and was the only other drill > with a rating of 5. B $150, cut 161 1/2" holes and drove 171 2.5" screws. > Interesting, that they drove the same number of screws on a charge, but not > the same number of holes; perhaps, the holes require more work (power). B The > said it was very "robust" and the only ding they came up with was that the > "battery could use a better grip surface". Power required to drill holes in wood varies with the wood, even among standard construction grade stuff, and with the sharpness of the drill bit. Even if they start with a new (or freshly sharpened) bit, what they drill through will dull it, and there's variance there. I don't know if a 20% variation in performance is attributable to those factors or not; I'd like to see several trials, to have an idea. -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com From eric at megageek.com Sat Nov 26 15:30:32 2011 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 17:30:32 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Generator question Message-ID: I'm asking a question that many of us on the East coast may be wanting to know. OK, after two major storms and multiday power outages, my generator has gotten a workout. Being a good small engine owner, I want to service and store this generator properly. My question is, what should I do? First, is there a 'service kit' that includes all the filters/gaskets/etc that I should replace after extended use? Failing a kit, what should I do besides a simple oil change? The generator is a Coleman Vertex 7500. There is no petcock for the fuel and it has a fuel pump. I'm not sure how to run the carbs dry without burning all the fuel in the tank. Any ideas? What else should I do to prep the genny for storage until the next time I need it? Thanks in advance. PS, follow up about the knife block, about 5 mins with a recip saw worked perfectly! Why didn't I think of that? Thanks to all who helped with answers. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Nov 26 16:22:58 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 15:22:58 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Generator question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00e301ccac92$55afa980$0201a8c0@randall> > Failing a kit, what should I do besides a simple oil change? A little poking about on-line makes it appear that your generator was actually made by Powermate and that they are out of business. However their web site is still up and has this to offer: http://www.powermate.com/generators/storage.php which seems like good advice to me. If you can't find a means to drain the tank, then I would suggest using one of the little Facet electric fuel pumps as a transfer pump (to transfer the fuel to something that will burn it sooner rather than later). They are a handy thing to have around anyway, as they are readily pressed into service if you have a fuel pump failure. Cheapest source of new Facet pumps that I know of is Aircraft Spruce: http://aircraftspruce.info/catalog/eppages/facetpumps.php (they do sell other models, if you don't see what you want, ask.) However they frequently show up used on flea-bay for about half of new. -- Randall From eric at megageek.com Sat Nov 26 17:04:48 2011 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 19:04:48 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Generator follow up Message-ID: Thanks for the quick replies. I found the parts manual with the link and some other great info. I do have one more question that I forgot to ask... Since this is a commercial generator, the muffler isn't the quietest that it could be. Is there a place that I can find a quieter generator? (preferably without having to rejet the carb?) Or are they other ways of reducing generator noise? Thanks again! Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson From doug at dougbraun.com Sat Nov 26 18:17:11 2011 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 20:17:11 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Generator question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I had a similar problem with my snow blower: When I took it out right after the Halloween storm, it ran really bad, and I found that the carb had gotten all gummed up. Looking at the parts diagram, I noticed that the engine (B&S) had an optional fuel shutoff valve, but the snow blower manufacturer had chose not to spend a dollar or two to include it. There was a blanking cover where the valve was supposed to go. So I ordered the valve, installed it, and now I can close the valve and let the carb run itself dry after each use. So, my advice is: figure out how to install a shutoff valve in the fuel line. A power equipment repair place should be able to sell you a generic shutoff valve. My Honda generator (EU2000) has a little screwdriver-operated drain valve on the carb, with a bit of hose to drain the fuel outside the generator's housing. Very handy... Doug On Sat, Nov 26, 2011 at 5:30 PM, wrote: > I'm asking a question that many of us on the East coast may be wanting to > know. > > OK, after two major storms and multiday power outages, my generator has > gotten a workout. > > Being a good small engine owner, I want to service and store this > generator properly. My question is, what should I do? From mikey at b2systems.com Mon Nov 28 12:01:11 2011 From: mikey at b2systems.com (Mike Rambour) Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 11:01:11 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Milwaukee vs Dewalt cordless Hex Impact Driver In-Reply-To: <045201ccaadb$f2b54ef0$0201a8c0@randall> References: <4ECE7DB0.9060300@earthlink.net> <045201ccaadb$f2b54ef0$0201a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <4ED3DA77.7060509@b2systems.com> While I LOVE cordless tools and I have several myself, you have to learn to treat your cordless tools as a rental tool. You rent it for 2 years and then its often cheaper to buy a new tool instead of buying new batteries. It took me a while to learn this and now when my current rental contract is up, I think I will be replacing them with corded tools. mike From elans4 at cox.net Mon Nov 28 14:01:15 2011 From: elans4 at cox.net (Mullen) Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 16:01:15 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Generator question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <009f01ccae10$de84b2d0$9b8e1870$@net> Doug Braun wrote: > > Looking at the parts diagram, I noticed that the engine (B&S) had > an optional fuel shutoff valve, but the snow blower manufacturer > had chose not to spend a dollar or two to include it. There was > a blanking cover where the valve was supposed to go. So I ordered > the valve, installed it, and now I can close the valve and let the > carb run itself dry after each use. It doesn't even have to be a fancy fuel shutoff valve. I bought one in the "garden shop" section of Lowes (around $7 -8 last time I checked). It's simply a generic valve that goes in the fuel line. I disconnected the fuel hose from the carb, connected it to the valve, and added a shot piece of hose from the valve to the carb. It hangs slightly below the cowling on one side of the engine, near the throttle lever and the key switch. When I put the snow blower away, I shut off the valve, and "drive it" into its storage place on the side of the garage. It usually runs out of fuel in the carb by the time I "park it". To start it the next time, turn on the valve, and it usually starts right up with little extra effort. By the way, the snow blower is about 25 years old now, and it still starts instantly. Tim Mullen From shochschild at att.net Mon Nov 28 14:41:07 2011 From: shochschild at att.net (shochschild at att.net) Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 15:41:07 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Milwaukee vs Dewalt cordless Hex Impact Driver In-Reply-To: <4ED3DA77.7060509@b2systems.com> References: <4ECE7DB0.9060300@earthlink.net> <045201ccaadb$f2b54ef0$0201a8c0@randall> <4ED3DA77.7060509@b2systems.com> Message-ID: <4ED3FFF3.3010505@att.net> I agree. I am done with battery tools. In my case, I already owned the corded versions, so I instead made the investment (aka the opportunity to spend money on my shop) in three good contractor grade extension cords. I tried various reels but now just coil them. It turns out that I don't miss the battery tools. Since I threw the last collection of dead batteries away, I haven't yet needed to use a power tool beyond the reach of a cord. On 11/28/2011 1:01 PM, Mike Rambour wrote: > While I LOVE cordless tools and I have several myself, you have to > learn to treat your cordless tools as a rental tool. You rent it for > 2 years and then its often cheaper to buy a new tool instead of buying > new batteries. > > It took me a while to learn this and now when my current rental > contract is up, I think I will be replacing them with corded tools. > > mike > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shochschild at att.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 28 15:45:55 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 14:45:55 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Milwaukee vs Dewalt cordless Hex Impact Driver In-Reply-To: <4ED3FFF3.3010505@att.net> References: <4ECE7DB0.9060300@earthlink.net> <045201ccaadb$f2b54ef0$0201a8c0@randall> <4ED3DA77.7060509@b2systems.com> <4ED3FFF3.3010505@att.net> Message-ID: <0d9b01ccae1f$7d8fff70$78affe50$@rr.com> Well, I have both corded and cordless drills; plus a wide variety of extension cords both coiled and reeled. Still, when I need to drill just a few holes in the backyard, or up on a ladder somewhere, I reach for the cordless drill. Yeah, batteries don't last forever, but to me, $20-$30/year is a reasonable price to pay for not having to drag a cord up the ladder, or through the attic, or around the swimming pool. And best I can remember, my current pair of battery packs is over 4 years old and still working well enough to meet my needs. When I bought them, the two packs were significantly less expensive than a new tool with the same features and only one battery. -- Randall From eric at megageek.com Mon Nov 28 16:05:14 2011 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 18:05:14 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Log Splitters Message-ID: Evening gentlemen (and women), Today I revived my log splitter. I've been doing most of my splitting by hand so I haven't been using it. Now my shoulder injury is making swinging an ax less possible. So I got my old 20ton splitter out. It works great (I can't believe I've been swinging an ax as long as I have been now that I remember how easy this makes it!) Anyway, I did a quick welding job to add a small 'table' to the far side of the I beam. That way when I split the log, half of it stays on the table and the other half I can resplit. It works pretty good, but I was thinking there is a better way to do it. So, I came to the experts. Does anyone have a great way to make an 'outfeed table' for a spliter? Anyone want to share their ideas here? Either way, enjoy and thanks! Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson From eric at megageek.com Mon Nov 28 16:22:38 2011 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 18:22:38 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Milwaukee vs Dewalt cordless Hex Impact Driver In-Reply-To: <4ED3FFF3.3010505@att.net> Message-ID: OK, before you all throw away your tools, I have an idea... First, I got rid of all my corded tools when I first used cordless stuff. They do rock. Then, I think I saw a brand that had this idea, but I never found one for Dewalt. Here is my idea. I faux battery pack that really is a 120v cord with converter. So, if you need cordless, you use the batteries. If you want to use a 'corded' model, you put this battery pack in and plug it in the wall. Now you have one tool that is both corded and cordless! Brilliant, eh? In case this idea isn't patented, I'm giving it away here for free, with the only stipulation that you send me one model for Dewalt 18v and Milwalkee 12 volt! 8>) Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson From marka at maracing.com Mon Nov 28 18:09:50 2011 From: marka at maracing.com (Mark Andy) Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 20:09:50 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Shop-talk] Milwaukee vs Dewalt cordless Hex Impact Driver In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Howdy, On Mon, 28 Nov 2011, eric at megageek.com wrote: > So, if you need cordless, you use the batteries. If you want to use a > 'corded' model, you put this battery pack in and plug it in the wall. That really is one of the better ideas I've run across recently. I'd buy one certainly. Mark From arvidj at visi.com Mon Nov 28 18:26:59 2011 From: arvidj at visi.com (Arvid Jedlicka) Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 19:26:59 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Milwaukee vs Dewalt cordless Hex Impact Driver In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7B0ED76FF61F431B9636732493889111@HP62011> http://dewaltownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=327.0 Half way down the page. Such a good idea they discontinued it. -----Original Message----- From: eric at megageek.com Sent: Monday, November 28, 2011 5:22 PM To: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Milwaukee vs Dewalt cordless Hex Impact Driver OK, before you all throw away your tools, I have an idea... First, I got rid of all my corded tools when I first used cordless stuff. They do rock. Then, I think I saw a brand that had this idea, but I never found one for Dewalt. Here is my idea. I faux battery pack that really is a 120v cord with converter. So, if you need cordless, you use the batteries. If you want to use a 'corded' model, you put this battery pack in and plug it in the wall. Now you have one tool that is both corded and cordless! Brilliant, eh? In case this idea isn't patented, I'm giving it away here for free, with the only stipulation that you send me one model for Dewalt 18v and Milwalkee 12 volt! 8>) Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/arvidj at visi.com From eric at megageek.com Mon Nov 28 18:22:03 2011 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 20:22:03 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Milwaukee vs Dewalt cordless Hex Impact Driver In-Reply-To: <7B0ED76FF61F431B9636732493889111@HP62011> Message-ID: >http://dewaltownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=327.0 >Half way down the page. Such a good idea they discontinued it. Sniff, sniff. If they made it for the 18V, I'd buy it in a heartbeat! OK, so to the electronic engineers out there, how hard would it be to make one? If someone could make up the plans, I'd build one. Thanks. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson From arvidj at visi.com Mon Nov 28 18:52:16 2011 From: arvidj at visi.com (Arvid Jedlicka) Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 19:52:16 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Milwaukee vs Dewalt cordless Hex Impact Driver In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: For one that "is not small but it works" look at the top of the page. Have to change the components to get to 18v but the basics are there. -----Original Message----- From: eric at megageek.com Sent: Monday, November 28, 2011 7:22 PM To: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Milwaukee vs Dewalt cordless Hex Impact Driver >http://dewaltownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=327.0 >Half way down the page. Such a good idea they discontinued it. Sniff, sniff. If they made it for the 18V, I'd buy it in a heartbeat! OK, so to the electronic engineers out there, how hard would it be to make one? If someone could make up the plans, I'd build one. Thanks. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/arvidj at visi.com From dmscheidt at gmail.com Mon Nov 28 19:00:18 2011 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 20:00:18 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Milwaukee vs Dewalt cordless Hex Impact Driver In-Reply-To: <7B0ED76FF61F431B9636732493889111@HP62011> References: <7B0ED76FF61F431B9636732493889111@HP62011> Message-ID: On Mon, Nov 28, 2011 at 7:26 PM, Arvid Jedlicka wrote: > http://dewaltownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=327.0 > > Half way down the page. Such a good idea they discontinued it. > Well, sure. Even a cheap corded drill has a better motor (more powerful, better duty cycle) than most cordless drills. The 24V dewalt stuff might have been an exception, but the people who bought that stuff would spend the money on corded tools, so I doubt it sold well at all. -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 28 19:16:58 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 18:16:58 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Milwaukee vs Dewalt cordless Hex Impact Driver In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0deb01ccae3c$f98d4e80$eca7eb80$@rr.com> > For one that "is not small but it works" look at the top of the page. > Have > to change the components to get to 18v but the basics are there. I'd be REEAL careful building that, though. For one thing, the schematic clearly has some errors, as it shows a direct short across the battery pack. -- Randall From mark at nashvilletn.org Mon Nov 28 19:20:37 2011 From: mark at nashvilletn.org (Mark) Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 20:20:37 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Milwaukee vs Dewalt cordless Hex Impact Driver References: Message-ID: <8D6858606ABC46E5B8F9474AB2CEABB1@Dell9200> For years I would leave a cordless drill on my boat just so I would have it handy while underway. Every time I ever needed it either the battery was not charged or in need of replacement. Finally one night at anchor I took the drill apart and soldered (butane) a pair of wires on it with a lighter plug so I could plug it in an accessory outlet on the boat. That was over ten years ago and my old drill still works like a charm. It was a 9 volt, now 12 volt, it runs a bit faster but hasn't burned out yet. I would think the same would work for a 18 volt drill since the battery voltage drops quickly under load anyway. Nothing like a 100 amp hour battery for your drill! Mark Nashville ----- Original Message ----- >http://dewaltownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=327.0 >Half way down the page. Such a good idea they discontinued it. Sniff, sniff. If they made it for the 18V, I'd buy it in a heartbeat! From arvidj at visi.com Mon Nov 28 19:27:42 2011 From: arvidj at visi.com (Arvid Jedlicka) Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 20:27:42 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Milwaukee vs Dewalt cordless Hex Impact Driver In-Reply-To: <0deb01ccae3c$f98d4e80$eca7eb80$@rr.com> References: <0deb01ccae3c$f98d4e80$eca7eb80$@rr.com> Message-ID: I will retract the "it works" and simply go with "is not small" then ;-} -----Original Message----- From: Randall Sent: Monday, November 28, 2011 8:16 PM To: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Milwaukee vs Dewalt cordless Hex Impact Driver > For one that "is not small but it works" look at the top of the page. > Have > to change the components to get to 18v but the basics are there. I'd be REEAL careful building that, though. For one thing, the schematic clearly has some errors, as it shows a direct short across the battery pack. -- Randall _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/arvidj at visi.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 28 19:40:25 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 18:40:25 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Milwaukee vs Dewalt cordless Hex Impact Driver In-Reply-To: References: <0deb01ccae3c$f98d4e80$eca7eb80$@rr.com> Message-ID: <0df601ccae40$405cb820$c1162860$@rr.com> > I will retract the "it works" and simply go with "is not small" then ;- > } Oh I don't doubt the author built it and it works for him. Just somehow the schematic didn't quite capture what he built. What I envisioned was something more like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8UQ-5QP9pks except using something like this: http://www.powerstream.com/AC-A0407.htm instead of a car battery. But I don't know offhand just how much current the tool would need, so perhaps you'd need a higher power DC supply. -- Randall From bjshov8 at tx.rr.com Mon Nov 28 20:49:51 2011 From: bjshov8 at tx.rr.com (BJNoSHOV8) Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 21:49:51 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Milwaukee vs Dewalt cordless Hex Impact Driver In-Reply-To: <4ECE7DB0.9060300@earthlink.net> References: <4ECE7DB0.9060300@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <4ED4565F.1000803@tx.rr.com> I've heard good and bad about a lot of the brands. I think with some brands it will be a crap shoot. About 20 years ago I bought a Sears cordless drill. I read good reviews about it, but my batteries didn't last all that long. I knew people that did automotive work that had Makita cordless drills, and they were supposed to be good, but all of the ones that I saw seemed to have crappy batteries. About 8 or more years ago I decided I wanted a good cordless drill so I got a DeWalt 14.4V. It still works perfectly and both batteries are still good. I use it for occasional home use, not professional use every day. My DeWalt is NiCad, I know the benefits of LiIon, also I thought I had a use for a cordless impact and a small sawzall. A couple of years ago I found a Ridgid set on sale at HomeDepot and bought it. The drill worked well but I didn't put the other tools to a good test until later. I found that the impact and the sawzall would only run a second or two without shutting off. (LiIon batteries have protection circuits so they don't discharge too fast or charge/discharge too far.) I didn't register the tools when I bought them, and I don't know if I have the receipts anymore. I'm thinking about sending in the batteries to see if they will warranty them anyway. I've also thought about buying a couple of NiCad batteries on ebay but those are pretty expensive. My other option is to sell my individual tools on ebay and then just buy a new set from a better manufacturer. I've longingly looked at the ads over the past few years. Makita has LiIon sets that look good, DeWalt seems to have dabbled in LiIon but they mostly advertise NiCad still. I saw Milwaukee and new Sears sets advertised a lot for Black Friday. And of course there are the real cheap brands like Ryobi. I may have to break down and buy a new DeWalt set. For people that have failed batteries- you can search the net and find instructions for rejuvenating NiCad batteries. One procedure I've found involved freezing the batteries, another procedure involved overcharging the individual cells with a car battery. I don't know how well these procedures work because I haven't tried them. The other option is to take your pack apart and replace the individual cells. NiCad cells are 1.2V each so if you have an 18V battery, it has 15 of the smaller cells in it. Now the challenge is finding the cells for a reasonable price. One online source I found wanted $3 per cell, meaning $45 for one battery. You can find places online that will rebuild your pack for not much more than that. I still like my cordless drill, and for me a drill benefits the most from being portable. My other big tool quest is for an air compressor. I can get a small impact wrench for automotive use in my garage. I don't know that I have that much use for a cordless sawzall but it might be useful occasionally. > I'm getting a cordless impact driver for myself tomorrow. The big > orange box has good deals on a Dewalt combo (DCK236C for $149). But I > also noticed they have special pricing on Milwaukee with the driver > for $149 or a combo with a hammer drill for $199. > > Question for the list - How does Milwaukee compare to Dewalt? Both > these tools are 18V. The Milwaukee uses Lithium batteries, which I > understand to be better that NiCad, hence a price difference. I've > used 12V Dewalt drills for about 15 years and am happy with my Dewalt > power tools, though I occasionally exceed the capabilities of my 12V > drill. Milwaukee is a brand I've heard of, but don't know how they > compare to Dewalt. From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com Mon Nov 28 20:52:56 2011 From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott Hall) Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 22:52:56 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Milwaukee vs Dewalt cordless Hex Impact Driver In-Reply-To: <047201ccab19$9c9b7e70$0201a8c0@randall> References: <4ECE7DB0.9060300@earthlink.net><4ECEB124.5040101@gmail.com><046801ccab08$c741ad40$0201a8c0@randall> <047201ccab19$9c9b7e70$0201a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <4ED45718.2020507@gmail.com> Mine are Milwaukee. On 11/24/2011 9:26 PM, Randall wrote: >> There aren't NiCds in any 18V drill, are there? They're all NiMH or >> LiIon, as far as I've seen. > I don't know what Scott has, he didn't say. But I believe the DeWalt that > Brian was asking about is NiCd, and a quick Google turned up lots of other > brands that still offer NiCd. Milwaukee certainly used to make them, even > if they don't offer them today. Eg, > http://fwd4.me/0hP6 From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com Mon Nov 28 20:56:32 2011 From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott Hall) Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 22:56:32 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Milwaukee vs Dewalt cordless Hex Impact Driver In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4ED457F0.5000606@gmail.com> Dewalt makes them. Haven't ever seen one for Milwaukee. I like the idea enough that I actually considered changing to Dewalt, but I already had the Milwaukee stuff, and I like the Milwaukee Sawzall hatchet and flashlight better than the Dewalt. On 11/28/2011 6:22 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote: > OK, before you all throw away your tools, I have an idea... > > First, I got rid of all my corded tools when I first used cordless stuff. > They do rock. > > Then, I think I saw a brand that had this idea, but I never found one for > Dewalt. > > Here is my idea. I faux battery pack that really is a 120v cord with > converter. > > So, if you need cordless, you use the batteries. If you want to use a > 'corded' model, you put this battery pack in and plug it in the wall. > > Now you have one tool that is both corded and cordless! Brilliant, eh? > > In case this idea isn't patented, I'm giving it away here for free, with > the only stipulation that you send me one model for Dewalt 18v and > Milwalkee 12 volt! 8>) From dirtbeard at pacbell.net Mon Nov 28 21:55:03 2011 From: dirtbeard at pacbell.net (old dirtbeard) Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 20:55:03 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Shop-talk] Milwaukee vs Dewalt cordless Hex Impact Driver In-Reply-To: <4ED3FFF3.3010505@att.net> References: <4ECE7DB0.9060300@earthlink.net> <045201ccaadb$f2b54ef0$0201a8c0@randall> <4ED3DA77.7060509@b2systems.com> <4ED3FFF3.3010505@att.net> Message-ID: <1322542503.62689.YahooMailRC@web81307.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Gentlemen, Yes, I have had battery-powered hand tools, but resorted to not buying the replacement batteries as they generally were more than the original tool and I hate the thought of all the lithium/Nicad/plastic crap going into landfills. It really is sad what we are doing. As a society, this disposable mentality makes us look mindlessly cheap, stupid and short sighted--the perfect target for a certain Asian country. This is my portable drill (have been using it for 20+ years, and inherited it from a 95 year-old who received it from his father). It is cast iron and bronze and will never wear-out or need a battery. http://www-bcf.usc.edu/~shook/PV/IMG00060-20111128-1927.jpg http://www-bcf.usc.edu/~shook/PV/IMG00061-20111128-1928.jpg It is a joy to use. When I need more whack, I pull out the Milwaukee Magnum 1/2" Hole Shooter--best drill on earth, which I will hand down to another generation. Buy good stuff boys, buy it once and please try to resist the temptation of cheap consumer tools... Thank you for listening. best, doug ____________________ '72 BSA B50SS '74 Triumph TR6 '01 HD XHL 883 '03 GMC Cargo Van '07 Aprilia SXV 550 ________________________________ From: "shochschild at att.net" To: shop-talk at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, November 28, 2011 1:41:07 PM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Milwaukee vs Dewalt cordless Hex Impact Driver I agree. I am done with battery tools. In my case, I already owned the corded versions, so I instead made the investment (aka the opportunity to spend money on my shop) in three good contractor grade extension cords. I tried various reels but now just coil them. It turns out that I don't miss the battery tools. Since I threw the last collection of dead batteries away, I haven't yet needed to use a power tool beyond the reach of a cord. On 11/28/2011 1:01 PM, Mike Rambour wrote: > While I LOVE cordless tools and I have several myself, you have to learn to >treat your cordless tools as a rental tool. You rent it for 2 years and then >its often cheaper to buy a new tool instead of buying new batteries. > > It took me a while to learn this and now when my current rental contract is >up, I think I will be replacing them with corded tools. > > mike > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shochschild at att.net _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at pacbell.net From markmiller at threeboysfarm.com Tue Nov 29 00:21:46 2011 From: markmiller at threeboysfarm.com (Mark Miller) Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 23:21:46 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Milwaukee vs Dewalt cordless Hex Impact Driver References: Message-ID: I have had some 12 and 14.4V dewalt tools and they were very useable. I had the batteries rebuilt once and by the time they needed a second rebuild they (the batteries) were getting mechanically sloppy and I didn't think they would stay in the tools well anymore, so not worth doing. I now have a Milwaukee 18V driver and drill set and like them quite a bit more. Much more power, batteries also last longer. As far as Ryobi: I would never give them another nickel based on how they treated me with a defective, in warranty, weed whacker. Claimed that the failure must have been due to misuse (snapped shaft coupling) so refused to honor the warranty. Mark Miller From tputland at charter.net Tue Nov 29 05:14:55 2011 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 07:14:55 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Shop-talk] Batter recycling was cordless tools Message-ID: <3bc46619.8c08.133ef3fcbe1.Webtop.44@charter.net> On Mon, Nov 28, 2011 at 10:55 PM, old dirtbeard wrote: "...and I hate the thought of all the lithium/Nicad/plastic crap going into landfills. It really is sad what we are doing." doug I agree on hating the thought of all crap we put in the ground and our disposable society attitude bugs me as well. But, not sure on the plastic bits, but Batteries Plus+ here in WI will take dead batteries for recycling. I am sure there are other entities out there that recycle batteries. Tim From jblair1948 at cox.net Tue Nov 29 05:36:34 2011 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 07:36:34 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Battery recycling was cordless tools In-Reply-To: <3bc46619.8c08.133ef3fcbe1.Webtop.44@charter.net> References: <3bc46619.8c08.133ef3fcbe1.Webtop.44@charter.net> Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20111129073425.05957a18@cox.net> At 07:14 AM 11/29/2011, Tim wrote: >I agree on hating the thought of all crap we put in the ground and our >disposable society attitude bugs me as well. But, not sure on the plastic bits, >but Batteries Plus+ here in WI will take dead batteries for recycling. I am sure >there are other entities out there that recycle batteries. Here in South Eastern VA. Batteres Plus don't take NiCads, MHI, or LIon. However our main public takes them. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy: e pluribus Unum, "from many, one." In God We Trust Liberty - the power of choosing, thinking, and acting for oneself; freedom from control or restriction From bjshov8 at tx.rr.com Tue Nov 29 09:17:13 2011 From: bjshov8 at tx.rr.com (bjshov8 at tx.rr.com) Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 11:17:13 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Battery recycling was cordless tools In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20111129073425.05957a18@cox.net> Message-ID: <20111129161714.A6BST.219029.root@cdptpa-web23-z01> I have a baggie in one of my drawers that I put all of my old batteries in. I don't actually use that many batteries but do use a few in flashlights and things like the TV remote. I also have a wireless mouse on my computer and I run my used AA batteries through it rather than putting new batteries in there. It seems to suck the last little bit of power out of them, when they won't work in a flashlight or whatever. > >I agree on hating the thought of all crap we put in the ground and our > >disposable society attitude bugs me as well. But, not sure on the > plastic bits, > >but Batteries Plus+ here in WI will take dead batteries for > recycling. I am sure > >there are other entities out there that recycle batteries. > > Here in South Eastern VA. Batteres Plus don't take NiCads, MHI, or LIon. > However our main public takes them. From pj_thomas at comcast.net Tue Nov 29 09:35:19 2011 From: pj_thomas at comcast.net (Peter J. Thomas) Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 11:35:19 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Battery recycling was cordless tools In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20111129073425.05957a18@cox.net> References: <3bc46619.8c08.133ef3fcbe1.Webtop.44@charter.net> <6.2.5.6.1.20111129073425.05957a18@cox.net> Message-ID: <4ED509C7.3000305@comcast.net> On 11/29/2011 7:36 AM, John T. Blair wrote: > At 07:14 AM 11/29/2011, Tim wrote: > > >I agree on hating the thought of all crap we put in the ground and our > >disposable society attitude bugs me as well. But, not sure on the > plastic bits, > >but Batteries Plus+ here in WI will take dead batteries for > recycling. I am sure > >there are other entities out there that recycle batteries. > > Here in South Eastern VA. Batteres Plus don't take NiCads, MHI, or LIon. > However our main public takes them. > > John HomeDepot and RadioShack( up to 1 pound ) will take batteries. I suspect Lowes does also. Peter T. > > John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net > Va. Beach, Va > Phone: (757) 495-8229 > > 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) > 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III > 65 Rambler Classic > > Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan > Bricklin: www.bricklin.org > > If you can read this - Thank a teacher! > If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! > > From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy: > e pluribus Unum, "from many, one." > In God We Trust > Liberty - the power of choosing, thinking, and acting for > oneself; freedom from control or restriction > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_thomas at comcast.net From tputland at charter.net Tue Nov 29 11:04:34 2011 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 13:04:34 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Shop-talk] reprinting tool receipts--was tool comparison Message-ID: <2e57814a.e80a.133f07feb19.Webtop.45@charter.net> On Mon, Nov 28, 2011 at 9:49 PM, BJNoSHOV8 wrote: "I didn't register the tools when I bought them, and I don't know if I have the receipts anymore. I'm thinking about sending in the batteries to see if they will warranty them anyway." I don't know about Home Depot, but Best Buy can reprint old receipts if you paid with a credit or debit card--I don't know about a check. I do not know how far back they can go, but it might be worth it to check with the store where you bought the tools to see if the receipts can be reproduced. If you try this, please let us know if it works. Tim From jblair1948 at cox.net Wed Nov 30 05:30:57 2011 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 07:30:57 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Battery recycling was cordless tools In-Reply-To: <20111129161714.A6BST.219029.root@cdptpa-web23-z01> References: <6.2.5.6.1.20111129073425.05957a18@cox.net> <20111129161714.A6BST.219029.root@cdptpa-web23-z01> Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20111130072928.058bd0b0@cox.net> > Here in South Eastern VA. Batteres Plus don't take NiCads, MHI, or LIon. > However our main public takes them. Looks like I missed the word Libruary, after main public. :) John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy: e pluribus Unum, "from many, one." In God We Trust Liberty - the power of choosing, thinking, and acting for oneself; freedom from control or restriction From jniolon at bham.rr.com Wed Nov 30 07:29:10 2011 From: jniolon at bham.rr.com (john niolon) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 08:29:10 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] MATH GURUS AND TRAILER BUILDERS Message-ID: <47EACB6270D842719867A5549F1B6369@OwnerPC> math and geometry have never been my strong suite... I need some help with a formula Here's the math problem for all you geometry/trig/calculus/trailer building car people.(that have to haul the ride sitting in the shop... shop content) I need to calculate the ramp length for a car hauler trailer so the vehicle won't drag on loading. given a. the height of the trailer bed c. the distance from the front edge of the vehicle to the front tire contact point d. the wheel base of the vehicle e. the height of the vehicle at it's lowest point I think I've included all the variables... I know dovetailing the trailer helps a lot... but we might have to work with what's available... a "plug in" formula would be sweet so you could just put in the variables and it would calculate the ramp length I've got a sketch of what I'm trying to solve if you want to look at http://jniolon.classicpickup.com/RAMP.HTML I know this group can come up with something... heck, if I had the material you could build it be quitting time thanks John From jszwed at energykinetics.com Wed Nov 30 08:19:37 2011 From: jszwed at energykinetics.com (Joe Szwed) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 10:19:37 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] reprinting tool receipts--was tool comparison In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Just went through this with Home Depot for a window AC unit. They told me they can go back 3 years for a receipt if paid with a credit card. Joe >I don't know about Home Depot, but Best Buy can reprint old receipts if >you paid with a credit or debit card--I don't know about a check. I do >not know how far back they can go, but it might be worth it to check >with the store where you bought the tools to see if the receipts can be >reproduced. ------------------------------ From stuart.a.galt at boeing.com Wed Nov 30 09:10:41 2011 From: stuart.a.galt at boeing.com (Galt, Stuart A) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 08:10:41 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] MATH GURUS AND TRAILER BUILDERS In-Reply-To: <47EACB6270D842719867A5549F1B6369@OwnerPC> References: <47EACB6270D842719867A5549F1B6369@OwnerPC> Message-ID: <098E1A12860FC546BFB9617D2BEB5E145B7A78E15D@XCH-NW-01V.nw.nos.boeing.com> John, I am not a math/trailer/geometry geek, but you really have two problems that you need to solve. The first one is: Does the nose/tail of the vehicle drag going up the ramp? The second one is: Does the area between the wheels drag when the vehicle is on both the ramp and the trailer bed. You add to the difficulty factor if the ramps are shorter than the wheelbase of the vehicle. Based on your drawing if distance B is greater than distance D then you can consider the two problems independent. To get on the ramp you need to make sure that you approach/departure angles are greater than the angle made with the ramp on the ground... Angle of ramp = arc tan(A/B) Approach angle = arc tan(E/C) except that most cars you have "stuff" that hangs down so you need to figure out an effective E. This can be measured using something straight placed under the axle and calculating the angle that way. To get on the ramp you will need both the approach and departure (same thing measured on the back of the vehicle) to be greater than the angle of the ramp. To get from the ramp to the trailer you are concerned about something called break over angle. To calculate this you need to know the angle between the ramp and the deck of the trailer (this will be different than the angle of the ramp to the ground if the deck of the trailer is not parallel with the ground. But for simplicity sake I will assume (big mistake) that you have a level trailer level ground... If that is the case then I can draw a triangle with a base that is the length of the wheelbase (D) and the angle opposite of the base is the supplement of the ramp angle (180-Ra). The height of the triangle is then given by: D ---------------- 2 tan((180-Ra)/2) If this number is less than the minimum height of the vehicle between the wheels then you can roll from the ramp to the bed of the trailers. If the ramp is shorter than the wheelbase it makes it easier in terms of departure angle. The break over calculation is more difficult but I think that if the ramp is longer than 1/2 the wheelbase using the above check will be a bit conservative, but for ramps less than 1/2 the wheelbase you will need to redo the math for the case with the rear wheel at the bottom of the ramp. Disclaimer: I have not had enough coffee yet today to be sure that the above is 100% correct. Stuart. -----Original Message----- From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of john niolon Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 6:29 AM To: shop-talk Subject: [Shop-talk] MATH GURUS AND TRAILER BUILDERS math and geometry have never been my strong suite... I need some help with a formula Here's the math problem for all you geometry/trig/calculus/trailer building car people.(that have to haul the ride sitting in the shop... shop content) I need to calculate the ramp length for a car hauler trailer so the vehicle won't drag on loading. given a. the height of the trailer bed c. the distance from the front edge of the vehicle to the front tire contact point d. the wheel base of the vehicle e. the height of the vehicle at it's lowest point I think I've included all the variables... I know dovetailing the trailer helps a lot... but we might have to work with what's available... a "plug in" formula would be sweet so you could just put in the variables and it would calculate the ramp length I've got a sketch of what I'm trying to solve if you want to look at http://jniolon.classicpickup.com/RAMP.HTML I know this group can come up with something... heck, if I had the material you could build it be quitting time thanks John _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/stuart.a.galt at boeing.com From bjshov8 at tx.rr.com Wed Nov 30 09:11:48 2011 From: bjshov8 at tx.rr.com (bjshov8 at tx.rr.com) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 11:11:48 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Battery recycling was cordless tools In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20111130072928.058bd0b0@cox.net> Message-ID: <20111130161148.9Y1GB.87508.root@cdptpa-web16-z01> "main public" could be interpreted lots of ways but "public" pretty much covers it. Our city has a recycling center where you can take such things which amounts to about the same thing as what you said. Our city recycling center takes other items such as old paint. I'm not sure if they take used oil filters or not. It is illegal for us to put used oil filters in our trash. I take my used oil to my father's garage and he uses it in his heater to heat his building. > > Here in South Eastern VA. Batteres Plus don't take NiCads, MHI, or LIon. > > However our main public takes them. > > > Looks like I missed the word Libruary, after main public. :) From pethier at comcast.net Wed Nov 30 09:14:41 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 16:14:41 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] MATH GURUS AND TRAILER BUILDERS In-Reply-To: <47EACB6270D842719867A5549F1B6369@OwnerPC> Message-ID: <1981613031.436814.1322669681304.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> In order to prevent an inordinately complicated formula, rather than one formula, you need three formulae. One for break-over, using wheelbase and center clearance. One of ramp angle front: using front overhang and front clearance. One for ramp angle rear: using rear overhang numbers you didn't ask for. Need to avoid dragging the the tail, or tailpipes, on the ground. Note that front, rear, and center clearances may not be the same. The best way to do the front and rear ramp angles may be to use a piece of plywood and measure the ramp angle directly. Each of these three formulae will give you a ramp length. Use the longest of the three. Not a big formula guy, I usually wind up scribbling triangles on a piece of paper and figure it all out using real numbers and a trig-capable calculator. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "john niolon" > To: "shop-talk" > Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 8:29:10 AM > Subject: [Shop-talk] MATH GURUS AND TRAILER BUILDERS > math and geometry have never been my strong suite... I need some help > with a > formula > > > > Here's the math problem for all you geometry/trig/calculus/trailer > building > car people.(that have to haul the ride sitting in the shop... shop > content) > > > > I need to calculate the ramp length for a car hauler trailer so the > vehicle > won't drag on loading. given > > > > a. the height of the trailer bed > > c. the distance from the front edge of the vehicle to the front tire > contact > point > > d. the wheel base of the vehicle > > e. the height of the vehicle at it's lowest point > > > > I think I've included all the variables... I know dovetailing the > trailer > helps a lot... but we might have to work with what's available... > > > > a "plug in" formula would be sweet so you could just put in the > variables and > it would calculate the ramp length > > > > I've got a sketch of what I'm trying to solve if you want to look at > > http://jniolon.classicpickup.com/RAMP.HTML > > > > I know this group can come up with something... heck, if I had the > material > you could build it be quitting time > > > > thanks > > John > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pethier at comcast.net From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com Wed Nov 30 09:16:38 2011 From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 11:16:38 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Battery recycling was cordless tools In-Reply-To: <20111130161148.9Y1GB.87508.root@cdptpa-web16-z01> References: <20111130161148.9Y1GB.87508.root@cdptpa-web16-z01> Message-ID: <4ED656E6.4090607@gmail.com> On 11/30/2011 11:11 AM, bjshov8 at tx.rr.com wrote: > I take my used oil to my father's garage and he uses it in his heater to heat his building. I have no idea, so I'm just asking: is that safe? There's stuff in used motor oil that I wouldn't want burned then in the air anywhere near me. I guess if your dad's not dead it can't be *too* lethal. From bjshov8 at tx.rr.com Wed Nov 30 11:04:24 2011 From: bjshov8 at tx.rr.com (bjshov8 at tx.rr.com) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 13:04:24 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Battery recycling was cordless tools In-Reply-To: <4ED656E6.4090607@gmail.com> Message-ID: <20111130180424.61XKG.164338.root@cdptpa-web18-z02> He has a couple of commercial waste oil heaters, made for this use. They will burn just about any oil. He puts motor oil in them and possibly old cooking oil. They probably exhaust the combustion byproducts outside, and have a heat exchanger and fan to blow hot air inside, just like the normal natural gas furnaces that we use in homes here. Do a google search for "waste oil heater" and you will find lots of manufacturers. > On 11/30/2011 11:11 AM, bjshov8 at tx.rr.com wrote: > > I take my used oil to my father's garage and he uses it in his heater to heat his building. > > I have no idea, so I'm just asking: is that safe? There's stuff in used > motor oil that I wouldn't want burned then in the air anywhere near me. > > I guess if your dad's not dead it can't be *too* lethal. From miq at bigllama.com Wed Nov 30 11:05:14 2011 From: miq at bigllama.com (Miq Millman) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 10:05:14 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Battery recycling was cordless tools In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20111130072928.058bd0b0@cox.net> References: <6.2.5.6.1.20111129073425.05957a18@cox.net> <20111129161714.A6BST.219029.root@cdptpa-web23-z01> <6.2.5.6.1.20111130072928.058bd0b0@cox.net> Message-ID: After all this chat on the "rental" of cordless devices, I have to chime in on what just happened in my shop: My Ridgid 18v Li-ion 1/2 driver, which I've had about 18 months, and bought when my old Makita 14v system lost both battery packs (and the third battery pack I build out of R/C nicad cells), had both battery packs stop taking charge. Typically, it sits in the top of my tool box with one pack on the driver and one pack sitting on the charger unit hanging from a nail on my wall shelf. So it's subject to garage temps year round -- no specific heating or cooling, just standard insulation. Normal warranty: 90 days + 3 years on breakage, but if you register on Ridgid's website within 90 days, they have a lifetime warranty on everything. I called them, they gave me a "repair shop" nearby, and I dropped off my battery packs yesterday and they will be replaced for free. I was expecting 2-3 week wait, but the shop called this morning and I can go pick the new replacements up today. I bought it at a sale at the orange big box store, came with 2 battery packs, a nylon zippered case and a "condtioning charger" for about $160. The unit has decent power, an led at the base of the handle to light up the work area, and takes bits up to 13mm. Here's the text from Ridgid: *WHAT IS COVERED UNDER THE LIFETIME SERVICE AGREEMENT* The Lifetime Service Agreement on RIDGID. Hand Held Power Tools, Stationary Power Tools and Pneumatic Tools covers all worn parts in properly maintained tools, including normal wear items such as brushes, chucks, motors, switches, gears and even cordless batteries in your qualifying RIDGID.Brand hand held and stationary power tools; and replacement rings, driver blades and bumpers on RIDGID. Brand pneumatic tools for the lifetime of the original owner. This Lifetime Service Agreement does not apply to other RIDGID. Brand products. -- __ Miq Millman miq at bigllama.com Tualatin, OR Big Llama Productions From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Nov 30 11:48:36 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 10:48:36 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Battery recycling was cordless tools In-Reply-To: <4ED656E6.4090607@gmail.com> References: <20111130161148.9Y1GB.87508.root@cdptpa-web16-z01> <4ED656E6.4090607@gmail.com> Message-ID: <103d01ccaf90$ab61da50$02258ef0$@rr.com> > I have no idea, so I'm just asking: is that safe? There's stuff in > used > motor oil that I wouldn't want burned then in the air anywhere near me. The EPA approves waste oil burners, provided they get hot enough to completely burn the oil. IIRC the leftover ash is supposed to be treated as toxic waste, because some (maybe most) of the nasty stuff stays behind. No doubt some of it does get out in the exhaust, but the same thing is true of car exhaust. -- Randall From bjshov8 at tx.rr.com Wed Nov 30 12:08:50 2011 From: bjshov8 at tx.rr.com (bjshov8 at tx.rr.com) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 14:08:50 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Battery recycling was cordless tools In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20111130190850.UM4XL.164695.root@cdptpa-web18-z02> I've been told that this is not legal in some states, and in those states they have to honor the warranty whether you registered the product with them or not. I have not checked to see if I can get Ridgid to abide by my state's laws without a fight, but they might require me to prove that it was purchased in this state which gets back to needing the original sales receipt. > Normal warranty: 90 days + 3 years on breakage, but if you register on > Ridgid's website within 90 days, they have a lifetime warranty on > everything. I called them, they gave me a "repair shop" nearby, and I > dropped off my battery packs yesterday and they will be replaced for free. > I was expecting 2-3 week wait, but the shop called this morning and I can > go pick the new replacements up today. From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com Wed Nov 30 13:12:28 2011 From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 15:12:28 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Battery recycling was cordless tools In-Reply-To: <103d01ccaf90$ab61da50$02258ef0$@rr.com> References: <20111130161148.9Y1GB.87508.root@cdptpa-web16-z01> <4ED656E6.4090607@gmail.com> <103d01ccaf90$ab61da50$02258ef0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <4ED68E2C.4000907@gmail.com> Yeah, I guess I was just thinking of the 'ick' factor. It must be legal and not-entirely-deadly because people are doing it. I just don't think I want to be around when they're doing it. Which must be a personal...whatever the opposite of blind spot is, because I happily stand around car exhausts and have worked on cars and motorcycles indoors...while they're running. After that, waste oil burning on the other side of a heat exchanger is probably nothing. :-) On 11/30/2011 1:48 PM, Randall wrote: >> I have no idea, so I'm just asking: is that safe? There's stuff in >> used >> motor oil that I wouldn't want burned then in the air anywhere near me. > The EPA approves waste oil burners, provided they get hot enough to > completely burn the oil. IIRC the leftover ash is supposed to be treated as > toxic waste, because some (maybe most) of the nasty stuff stays behind. > > No doubt some of it does get out in the exhaust, but the same thing is true > of car exhaust. From bk13 at earthlink.net Wed Nov 30 16:58:46 2011 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 15:58:46 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] MATH GURUS AND TRAILER BUILDERS In-Reply-To: <47EACB6270D842719867A5549F1B6369@OwnerPC> References: <47EACB6270D842719867A5549F1B6369@OwnerPC> Message-ID: <4ED6C336.3090507@earthlink.net> John - Here is a low math method. Take a sheet of plywood or heavy cardboard and stick it under the front of the car against the wheels. Lift it against the front bumper/spoiler and prop it up. Measure the angle. This angle needs to be greater than the angle of the ramp. If you have the trailer, park it as you would when you load and use a long board to simulate the ramp. Lengthen the board until the angle is less than the front measurement above. Now cut your plywood or cardboard at 1/2 the wheelbase. Put one edge against the wheels under the car and lift against the bottom center of the car. Repeat for the other axle to make sure they are about the same. You can then put together a quick spread "V" some boards and where the height is the ground clearance at 1/2 the wheelbase and the lengths are 1/2 the wheelbase. I realize this is slightly inaccurate, but it should be close. Slide it over the ramp and make sure only the ends touch. Brian On 11/30/2011 6:29 AM, john niolon wrote: > math and geometry have never been my strong suite... I need some help with a > formula > > > > Here's the math problem for all you geometry/trig/calculus/trailer building > car people.(that have to haul the ride sitting in the shop... shop content) > > > > I need to calculate the ramp length for a car hauler trailer so the vehicle > won't drag on loading. given > > > > a. the height of the trailer bed > > c. the distance from the front edge of the vehicle to the front tire contact > point > > d. the wheel base of the vehicle > > e. the height of the vehicle at it's lowest point > > > > I think I've included all the variables... I know dovetailing the trailer > helps a lot... but we might have to work with what's available... > > > > a "plug in" formula would be sweet so you could just put in the variables and > it would calculate the ramp length > > > > I've got a sketch of what I'm trying to solve if you want to look at > > http://jniolon.classicpickup.com/RAMP.HTML > > > > I know this group can come up with something... heck, if I had the material > you could build it be quitting time > > > > thanks > > John > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net From eric at megageek.com Wed Nov 30 17:35:38 2011 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 19:35:38 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] MATH GURUS AND TRAILER BUILDERS In-Reply-To: <4ED6C336.3090507@earthlink.net> Message-ID: OK, I just want to chime in to be careful when you are calculating something like this. If you make it "close" then you will scrape the under carriage if the truck and trailer are not parked exactly level. Or if the truck is loader with more weight (this will raise the front of the trailer.) Worst yet, you may get another car that has less clearance. 8>0 I would build this to get the most gentle slope overall. Who knows what tomorrow brings? Just my $0.02 worth. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson From ejrussell at mebtel.net Wed Nov 30 19:24:31 2011 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 21:24:31 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] MATH GURUS AND TRAILER BUILDERS In-Reply-To: <47EACB6270D842719867A5549F1B6369@OwnerPC> References: <47EACB6270D842719867A5549F1B6369@OwnerPC> Message-ID: <3379856F6D8949C0B332561386A3B73A@EricJRussellPC> I would use pencil & paper to draw the car & trailer to scale and use that to estimate the length of ramp needed. Then make it longer. Even if it fit this car the next car might be lower, longer, have more overhang, etc. Eric Russell Mebane, NC http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell ----- Original Message ----- > math and geometry have never been my strong suite... > I need to calculate the ramp length for a car hauler trailer so the > vehicle > won't drag on loading. From shochschild at att.net Wed Nov 30 20:33:46 2011 From: shochschild at att.net (shochschild at att.net) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 21:33:46 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] MATH GURUS AND TRAILER BUILDERS In-Reply-To: <3379856F6D8949C0B332561386A3B73A@EricJRussellPC> References: <47EACB6270D842719867A5549F1B6369@OwnerPC> <3379856F6D8949C0B332561386A3B73A@EricJRussellPC> Message-ID: <4ED6F59A.3010702@att.net> I would go over to my friend's house (or to the trailer yard) and measure theirs. On 11/30/2011 8:24 PM, Eric J Russell wrote: > I would use pencil & paper to draw the car & trailer to scale and use > that to estimate the length of ramp needed. Then make it longer. Even > if it fit this car the next car might be lower, longer, have more > overhang, etc. > > Eric Russell > Mebane, NC > http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell > ----- Original Message ----- >> math and geometry have never been my strong suite... > >> I need to calculate the ramp length for a car hauler trailer so the >> vehicle >> won't drag on loading. > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shochschild at att.net