From eric at megageek.com  Tue Nov  2 20:19:03 2010
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2010 23:19:03 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] PTO Pumps
Message-ID: <OF87A977C5.910E4E47-ON852577D0.00134900-852577D0.00138428@mail.megageek.com>

OK, here is the problem.  I have a log splitter with a PTO pump that has 
the 21 spline gear.  Mine (and all big tractors) have a different gear set 
up.

Here is what I have...

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_21759_21759

Here is what I need...

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200329704_200329704

As you can image, I'm not interested in throwing away a $500 dollar unit 
just to have to buy another one for $500.  Does anyone know of any sort of 
adaptor or if the splines can be changed?

TIA

Moose
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Nov  2 21:19:05 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2010 21:19:05 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] PTO Pumps
In-Reply-To: <OF87A977C5.910E4E47-ON852577D0.00134900-852577D0.00138428@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF87A977C5.910E4E47-ON852577D0.00134900-852577D0.00138428@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <09da01cb7b0e$41214890$0301a8c0@randall>

> OK, here is the problem.  I have a log splitter with a PTO 
> pump that has 
> the 21 spline gear.  Mine (and all big tractors) have a 
> different gear set up.

That is because your pump wants to be turned at 1000 rpm, but your tractors
only have 540 rpm PTOs.  You can get straight adapters, but your pump may
not work very well at half speed.

Here's one source (just the first that turned up with Google)
http://www.doublehh.com/products.cfm?prodID=123&catID=2

My uncle had a speed adapter for his Deere that included the gears to raise
the rpm to 1000, but I think it came from Deere and was specific to the line
of tractors.

Here is a universal speed adapter
http://catalogs.hubcityinc.com/farmrev/model390.html

but I have a feeling it may cost more than a 540 rpm pump <G>

Randall

From eltonclark at gmail.com  Tue Nov  2 21:44:39 2010
From: eltonclark at gmail.com (Elton E. (Tony) Clark)
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2010 23:44:39 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] PTO Pumps
In-Reply-To: <OF87A977C5.910E4E47-ON852577D0.00134900-852577D0.00138428@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF87A977C5.910E4E47-ON852577D0.00134900-852577D0.00138428@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=yLaRtpkVReLqPL-j6T0T+_L+Wx6ARQC6SjbmW@mail.gmail.com>

*Here's the site for the ultimate PTO adaptor source:*

*http://catalogs.hubcityinc.com/farmrev/ptoadaptors.html*
*You are not going to be able to get as many RPM from your 1 3/8" tractor as
you could with a 1000 RPM unit  but it will still provide the same pressure
. . it'll just take a little longer for each split.*
*Tony in Texas*


On Tue, Nov 2, 2010 at 10:19 PM, <eric at megageek.com> wrote:

> OK, here is the problem.  I have a log splitter with a PTO pump that has
> the 21 spline gear.  Mine (and all big tractors) have a different gear set
> up.
>
> Here is what I have...
>
> http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_21759_21759
>
> Here is what I need...
>
> http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200329704_200329704
>
> As you can image, I'm not interested in throwing away a $500 dollar unit
> just to have to buy another one for $500.  Does anyone know of any sort of
> adaptor or if the splines can be changed?
>
> TIA
>
> Moose
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eltonclark at gmail.com

From nick at landform.co.uk  Wed Nov  3 01:19:13 2010
From: nick at landform.co.uk (nick brearley)
Date: Wed, 03 Nov 2010 08:19:13 +0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] PTO Pumps
In-Reply-To: <OF87A977C5.910E4E47-ON852577D0.00134900-852577D0.00138428@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF87A977C5.910E4E47-ON852577D0.00134900-852577D0.00138428@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <4CD11B01.70802@landform.co.uk>

On 03/11/2010 03:19, eric at megageek.com wrote:
> OK, here is the problem.  I have a log splitter with a PTO pump that has
> the 21 spline gear.  Mine (and all big tractors) have a different gear set
> up.
>
> Here is what I have...
>
> http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_21759_21759
>
> Here is what I need...
>
> http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200329704_200329704
>
Eric, the one you have should be quite adequate. 20 gpm @ 540 rpm, 
unless your splitter has an enormous ram :). The one you are considering 
gives 23 gpm @ 1000 rpm, probably  less at 540 rpm. IMHO the way forward 
is to get an adaptor from the site Randall suggests.

It might also be worth while checking with Prince that the specs on the 
NT website are correct, to get 1000 rpm from a 6 spline pto tractor you 
would need to run at max rpm, and then some.

Nick Brearley

From arvidj at visi.com  Wed Nov  3 08:16:24 2010
From: arvidj at visi.com (Arvid Jedlicka)
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2010 10:16:24 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] PTO Pumps
References: <OF87A977C5.910E4E47-ON852577D0.00134900-852577D0.00138428@mail.megageek.com>
	<4CD11B01.70802@landform.co.uk>
Message-ID: <75D14E3316504C5DB0F845F633399D52@behavioral.com>

Not knowing what kind of tractor you have you may want to check to see what 
'the other PTO's' on the machine might have to offer. I have a 540 pto on 
the back but the PTO that run the mower and the snow blower come off the 
front of the transmission and is 1000 rpm.

I'm not sure what the shaft\spline specifications on the front PTO for my 
tractor are ... there are two 1000 rpm standards ... 20 spline 1 3/4 
diameter and 21 spline 1 3/8 diameter ... I am sure it would be the smaller 
one if it is actually standard and not just a John Deere special deal ... 
but that might be an option if running the 1000 rpm pump at half speed off 
the back doesn't get the job done.

Arvid 

From ericm at lne.com  Wed Nov  3 10:10:45 2010
From: ericm at lne.com (Eric Murray)
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2010 10:10:45 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] PTO Pumps
In-Reply-To: <75D14E3316504C5DB0F845F633399D52@behavioral.com>
References: <OF87A977C5.910E4E47-ON852577D0.00134900-852577D0.00138428@mail.megageek.com>
	<4CD11B01.70802@landform.co.uk>
	<75D14E3316504C5DB0F845F633399D52@behavioral.com>
Message-ID: <20101103171045.GA24144@slack>

Some tractors also have a two speed rear PTO.
My Kubota 7100 is one.

Eric

From obaa996 at yahoo.com  Thu Nov  4 11:17:13 2010
From: obaa996 at yahoo.com (Obaa)
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 2010 11:17:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Regrouting a shower.
In-Reply-To: <mailman.19.1288810802.19491.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.19.1288810802.19491.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <480539.23453.qm@web54304.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I'm rebuilding our shower door because it has started sagging.  While
scraping 
out the caulk, I noticed some of the grout has started
cracking/splitting 
between the tiles in the stall, so I plan on fixing those
areas as well.  Am I 
okay to just fix the broken areas, or should I really be
grinding out all of the 
old grout and re-grouting the entire shower?  I think
I know what the correct 
answer is, but it's a really big shower stall.... :)

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Thu Nov  4 11:49:53 2010
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 2010 13:49:53 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Regrouting a shower.
In-Reply-To: <480539.23453.qm@web54304.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <mailman.19.1288810802.19491.shop-talk@autox.team.net>,
	<480539.23453.qm@web54304.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W405785DAC0A0A66FE5DC96E14B0@phx.gbl>

Be careful of shipwright's disease!
You might end up rebuilding the house. %^)

Sorry, I can not help with your real question.

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!




> Date: Thu, 4 Nov 2010 11:17:13 -0700
> From: obaa996 at yahoo.com
> To: shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Regrouting a shower.
>
> I'm rebuilding our shower door because it has started sagging. While
> scraping
> out the caulk, I noticed some of the grout has started
> cracking/splitting
> between the tiles in the stall, so I plan on fixing those
> areas as well. Am I
> okay to just fix the broken areas, or should I really be
> grinding out all of the
> old grout and re-grouting the entire shower? I think
> I know what the correct
> answer is, but it's a really big shower stall.... :)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com

From bjshov8 at tx.rr.com  Thu Nov  4 13:21:44 2010
From: bjshov8 at tx.rr.com (bjshov8 at tx.rr.com)
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 2010 16:21:44 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Regrouting a shower.
In-Reply-To: <SNT123-W405785DAC0A0A66FE5DC96E14B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20101104202145.1PA75.259516.root@cdptpa-web17-z01>

No, I think you gave an accurate answer.

The point is if you have a single grout line that has cracked, you can just regrout that line.  After you finish then decide if the color matches and if you are happy with it.  If you aren't happy with the color match then you might have to grout more, maybe even the entire wall.  If you still aren't happy then you have to regrout the whole stall.  Now in the process of grouting you might decide you want to regrout the floor tile, or maybe you want more floor tile.  And then what about changing the paint to match. And the carpet, and the ...

So basically the answer is to replace the minimum amount that makes you happy.



> Be careful of shipwright's disease!
> You might end up rebuilding the house. %^)
> 
> Sorry, I can not help with your real question.

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Thu Nov  4 13:36:13 2010
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 2010 16:36:13 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Regrouting a shower.
In-Reply-To: <480539.23453.qm@web54304.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <mailman.19.1288810802.19491.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
	<480539.23453.qm@web54304.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikXR0qoLFx0rcSPa45FK-5DdkQsv6JucK5O4pZh@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, Nov 4, 2010 at 2:17 PM, Obaa <obaa996 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> I'm rebuilding our shower door because it has started sagging. B While
> scraping
> out the caulk, I noticed some of the grout has started
> cracking/splitting
> between the tiles in the stall, so I plan on fixing those
> areas as well. B Am I
> okay to just fix the broken areas, or should I really be
> grinding out all of the
> old grout and re-grouting the entire shower? B I think
> I know what the correct
> answer is, but it's a really big shower stall.... :)

Cna you figure out what caused the failure?  If it's something like a
poor repair, or movement on one wall, you might reasonably patch it.
(though you may have trouble matching the color.)
If it's just dying of old age, you're probably bettr off replacing all
of it, unless you're planning on retiling soon.
--
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From bk13 at earthlink.net  Thu Nov  4 14:48:06 2010
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Thu, 04 Nov 2010 14:48:06 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Regrouting a shower.
In-Reply-To: <480539.23453.qm@web54304.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <mailman.19.1288810802.19491.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
	<480539.23453.qm@web54304.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4CD32A16.6020300@earthlink.net>

This is a big 'it depends'.  If the other grout is good, just clean out 
a bit beyond the damaged area and give it a shot.  I did this on a 
tub/shower several years ago and it worked fine.  I was also able to 
feather in the replacement grout a bit by rubbing a wet finger of the 
new grout over the old grout.

Remember that transitions from wall to floor/tub/other walls should be 
caulked.  My new house has a good amount of floor damage because the 
person that renovated the bath and tile shower for the previous owner 
didn't believe in caulk.

If you have a bunch of grout to remove, the HF oscillating cutter with a 
grout blade works well.  Just plan for the dust and noise - hearing 
protection, mask, glasses, and plastic to contain the dust.

Brian

On 11/4/2010 11:17 AM, Obaa wrote:
> I'm rebuilding our shower door because it has started sagging.  While
> scraping
> out the caulk, I noticed some of the grout has started
> cracking/splitting
> between the tiles in the stall, so I plan on fixing those
> areas as well.  Am I
> okay to just fix the broken areas, or should I really be
> grinding out all of the
> old grout and re-grouting the entire shower?  I think
> I know what the correct
> answer is, but it's a really big shower stall.... :)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net

From eric at megageek.com  Sun Nov  7 11:28:22 2010
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 13:28:22 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] ATV Accessories
Message-ID: <OFD217B36E.6654FA79-ON852577D4.006618EF-852577D4.0066AC36@mail.megageek.com>

I'm not sure how many of you use ATV's for utility work, but I was 
wondering if you guys could recommend a site for accessories for ATV's.  I 
just got a new quad for the farm and I needed to add a few "goodies" to 
it.  8>)

Also, I'm interested in anyone that might have welded up their own front 
and rear racks instead of buying them premade.  Is this a good idea?

Finally, if anyone is interested in a Honda Big Red three wheeler, let me 
know.  It still runs great, but it's too light for my purposes.

Here is a picture of it...

<
http://www.megageek.com/photo/photoa~1.nsf/a7ffeab012bbfb5b85256eb1007ca7f6/ae92dfb9a325754f85256b000005af62?OpenDocument&Highlight=0,atc 
>

(Ok, so I'm not using it for work in that picture!)

Here is a better photo of it at work...

<
http://www.megageek.com/photo/photoa~1.nsf/a7ffeab012bbfb5b85256eb1007ca7f6/a1afa49950bb18b685256d8b005956a9?OpenDocument&Highlight=0,pooch 
>

(ok, so it's pulling a parade float.)

Anyway, you get the idea.  8>)

Moose
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 

From wmc_st at xxiii.com  Sun Nov  7 14:28:03 2010
From: wmc_st at xxiii.com (Wayne)
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2010 16:28:03 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] ATV Accessories
In-Reply-To: <OFD217B36E.6654FA79-ON852577D4.006618EF-852577D4.0066AC36@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OFD217B36E.6654FA79-ON852577D4.006618EF-852577D4.0066AC36@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <4CD719E3.5000207@xxiii.com>

On 11/7/2010 1:28 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote:
> I'm not sure how many of you use ATV's for utility work, but I was
> wondering if you guys could recommend a site for accessories for ATV's.  I
> just got a new quad for the farm and I needed to add a few "goodies" to

Dude!  Put a helmet on for gawd sakes if you're gonna go stunt riding!

I've bought motorcycle stuff a several times from www.BikeBandit.com and 
been very pleased with them;  can't speak for their ATV selection, but 
they appear to offer stuff for all power sports.

-Wayne

From doug at dougbraun.com  Sun Nov  7 17:57:31 2010
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Douglas Braun)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 19:57:31 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Replacing a Door
Message-ID: <AANLkTik78VPL2_3GW8Gf6Fnz9oow-06BnUgu1apKKwbH@mail.gmail.com>

Hello,

The door between my laundry room and (unheated) garage is a cheapo
hollow-core type, basically two sheets of Masonite with a web of
cardboard between them.   It is flimsy and insecure, and in the winter
you can feel the cold seeping through it.  I was thinking of replacing
it with a nicer metal one that is foam-filled.  I was wondering:

1: Do current building codes call for a fire-resistant door between a
garage and the living area?  (The existing door dates from the 70's.)

2: The doors I see at HD, etc. are all pre-hung.  Do you think it
would make more sense to discard the frame that comes with the door
(or maybe order a non-hung version) and fix the door to the existing
frame, or rip out the existing frame and use the new one?  One
downside of ripping out the old frame is that I would have to re-do
the surrounding trim.

Thanks,

Doug

From jem at milleredp.com  Sun Nov  7 18:29:17 2010
From: jem at milleredp.com (John Miller)
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2010 17:29:17 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Replacing a Door
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTik78VPL2_3GW8Gf6Fnz9oow-06BnUgu1apKKwbH@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTik78VPL2_3GW8Gf6Fnz9oow-06BnUgu1apKKwbH@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4CD7526D.7040304@milleredp.com>

> 1: Do current building codes call for a fire-resistant door between a
> garage and the living area?  (The existing door dates from the 70's.)

The ones I'm familiar with do.

> 2: The doors I see at HD, etc. are all pre-hung.  Do you think it
> would make more sense to discard the frame that comes with the door
> (or maybe order a non-hung version) and fix the door to the existing
> frame, or rip out the existing frame and use the new one?  One
> downside of ripping out the old frame is that I would have to re-do
> the surrounding trim.

IIRC fire doors are approved as a unit with their frame and seal. 
You're also required to have a self-closing hinge.

I'd certainly change the whole assembly, you'll spend a very long time 
trying to true up a new door in that old frame even if you weren't 
concerned about code (and my guess is your homeowners insurer would 
prefer that you were.)

John.

From jamesf at groupwbench.org  Sun Nov  7 18:48:11 2010
From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 20:48:11 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Replacing a Door
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTik78VPL2_3GW8Gf6Fnz9oow-06BnUgu1apKKwbH@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTik78VPL2_3GW8Gf6Fnz9oow-06BnUgu1apKKwbH@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <144E4853-CD11-4287-A33E-EFA7CD157655@groupwbench.org>

On Nov 7, 2010, at 7:57 PM, Douglas Braun wrote:
>
>
> 1: Do current building codes call for a fire-resistant door between a
> garage and the living area?  (The existing door dates from the 70's.)

All the ones I've seen do. And they require a spring so that it shuts
automatically. But a quick call to your inspector could tell you for sure.
>
> 2: The doors I see at HD, etc. are all pre-hung.  Do you think it
> would make more sense to discard the frame that comes with the door
> (or maybe order a non-hung version) and fix the door to the existing
> frame, or rip out the existing frame and use the new one?  One
> downside of ripping out the old frame is that I would have to re-do
> the surrounding trim.

It's much easier to get a pre-hung and rip out the existing frame (use a
sawzall). The trim, unless it's ornate or complex, is easy to replace. With
some care you can cut through any caulk, and using a 5 in 1 tool gently start
prying the trim off. WHen you have enough room, slip a wide-bladed pry bar in
there. Try and do it at the studs where the nails are, or use a piece of hard
material to spread the pry bar load out so you don't puncture the sheetrock.

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Sun Nov  7 18:49:37 2010
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 20:49:37 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Replacing a Door
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTik78VPL2_3GW8Gf6Fnz9oow-06BnUgu1apKKwbH@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTik78VPL2_3GW8Gf6Fnz9oow-06BnUgu1apKKwbH@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=u_D4XVnxoTK3vrXHYV34dXt0f_UQ60VA_mOVa@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, Nov 7, 2010 at 7:57 PM, Douglas Braun <doug at dougbraun.com> wrote:
> Hello,
>
> The door between my laundry room and (unheated) garage is a cheapo
> hollow-core type, basically two sheets of Masonite with a web of
> cardboard between them. B  It is flimsy and insecure, and in the winter
> you can feel the cold seeping through it. B I was thinking of replacing
> it with a nicer metal one that is foam-filled. B I was wondering:
>
> 1: Do current building codes call for a fire-resistant door between a
> garage and the living area? B (The existing door dates from the 70's.)
>

Yes.  Or, at least, the ones I've dealt with do.

> 2: The doors I see at HD, etc. are all pre-hung. B Do you think it
> would make more sense to discard the frame that comes with the door
> (or maybe order a non-hung version) and fix the door to the existing
> frame, or rip out the existing frame and use the new one? B One
> downside of ripping out the old frame is that I would have to re-do
> the surrounding trim.
>

What kind of shape is the frame in?  The door you put on it is going
to weigh a whole heck of a lot more than an interior door.




> Thanks,
>
> Doug
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation B $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dmscheidt at gmail.com
>
>



--
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Sun Nov  7 19:15:28 2010
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2010 21:15:28 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Replacing a Door
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTik78VPL2_3GW8Gf6Fnz9oow-06BnUgu1apKKwbH@mail.gmail.c om>
References: <AANLkTik78VPL2_3GW8Gf6Fnz9oow-06BnUgu1apKKwbH@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20101107211354.047b1050@cox.net>

At 07:57 PM 11/7/2010, Douglas Braun wrote:

 >2: The doors I see at HD, etc. are all pre-hung.  Do you think it would make
 >more sense to discard the frame that comes with the door (or maybe order a
 >non-hung version) and fix the door to the existing frame, or rip 
out the existing
 >frame and use the new one?  One downside of ripping out the old 
frame is that
 >I would have to re-do the surrounding trim.

Doug,

I just replaced the exterior side door to my garage two weekend ago.  The trim
is the least of your problems.  So if that is going to be a problem, 
I don't think
you should be tackling the job.

John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Nov  8 20:58:37 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 2010 03:58:37 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Replacing a Door
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTik78VPL2_3GW8Gf6Fnz9oow-06BnUgu1apKKwbH@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1763186681.729278.1289275117778.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Put in a new prehung steel exterior door.  The one I have between my heated shop and my cold garage has lasted these ten years OK.  

The one on the exterior of my garage has seen the effects of weather, though.  The wood has gone wonky at the bottom.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com


----- Original Message -----

> From: "Douglas Braun" <doug at dougbraun.com>
> To: shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Sent: Sunday, November 7, 2010 6:57:31 PM
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Replacing a Door
> 
> Hello,
> 
> The door between my laundry room and (unheated) garage is a cheapo
> hollow-core type, basically two sheets of Masonite with a web of
> cardboard between them.   It is flimsy and insecure, and in the
> winter
> you can feel the cold seeping through it.  I was thinking of
> replacing
> it with a nicer metal one that is foam-filled.  I was wondering:
> 
> 1: Do current building codes call for a fire-resistant door between a
> garage and the living area?  (The existing door dates from the 70's.)
> 
> 2: The doors I see at HD, etc. are all pre-hung.  Do you think it
> would make more sense to discard the frame that comes with the door
> (or maybe order a non-hung version) and fix the door to the existing
> frame, or rip out the existing frame and use the new one?  One
> downside of ripping out the old frame is that I would have to re-do
> the surrounding trim.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Doug
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pethier at comcast.net

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Tue Nov  9 06:39:45 2010
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 2010 07:39:45 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Replacing a Door
In-Reply-To: <1763186681.729278.1289275117778.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <AANLkTik78VPL2_3GW8Gf6Fnz9oow-06BnUgu1apKKwbH@mail.gmail.com>
	<1763186681.729278.1289275117778.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <003601cb8013$932c0260$b9840720$@ameritech.net>

Most of us have prehung steel doors on our hangars at the airport, mostly
Mastercraft from Menard's because that used to be the only place nearby.
Just like Phil's experience, everyone's wood frame rots out under the
extruded plastic at the bottom of the side jambs.  I caulked mine thoroughly
and the caulk is still adhered and flexible, but the jambs are rotting
nonetheless.

It's a common enough problem that they sell a replacement frame kit.  And
they used to accuse Detroit of "planned obsolescence"...

Karl


From: pethier at comcast.net
Sent: Monday, November 08, 2010 21:59
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Replacing a Door

Put in a new prehung steel exterior door.  The one I have between my heated
shop and my cold garage has lasted these ten years OK.  

The one on the exterior of my garage has seen the effects of weather,
though.  The wood has gone wonky at the bottom.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Tue Nov  9 07:16:08 2010
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 2010 09:16:08 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Replacing a Door
In-Reply-To: <003601cb8013$932c0260$b9840720$@ameritech.net>
References: <AANLkTik78VPL2_3GW8Gf6Fnz9oow-06BnUgu1apKKwbH@mail.gmail.com>
	<1763186681.729278.1289275117778.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<003601cb8013$932c0260$b9840720$@ameritech.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTim0UOnVfTNM1sCtYJXuMopteoFhMDcFZ8x5Hgus@mail.gmail.com>

On Tue, Nov 9, 2010 at 8:39 AM, Karl Vacek <kvacek at ameritech.net> wrote:
> Most of us have prehung steel doors on our hangars at the airport, mostly
> Mastercraft from Menard's because that used to be the only place nearby.
> Just like Phil's experience, everyone's wood frame rots out under the
> extruded plastic at the bottom of the side jambs. B I caulked mine
thoroughly
> and the caulk is still adhered and flexible, but the jambs are rotting
> nonetheless.
>
> It's a common enough problem that they sell a replacement frame kit. B And
> they used to accuse Detroit of "planned obsolescence"...

It's end grain wicking water into the wood.  Fancier doors use PVC
blocks and epoxy impregnated wood to block it.  (Or, at least, I think
that's what you're describing.  Certainly something I've seen.)


--
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From ronnie.day at gmail.com  Tue Nov  9 08:22:05 2010
From: ronnie.day at gmail.com (Ronnie Day)
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 2010 09:22:05 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Replacing a Door
In-Reply-To: <1763186681.729278.1289275117778.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <AANLkTik78VPL2_3GW8Gf6Fnz9oow-06BnUgu1apKKwbH@mail.gmail.com>
	<1763186681.729278.1289275117778.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=U+nux54_HpH46O=ABoVZzSiJ+3aUZiXoypo6U@mail.gmail.com>

Unless you're experienced in hanging doors, buy a pre-hung unit. We
just went through that with a couple of exterior doors on the place
we're building. Bought a couple of used (solid core/metal clad) doors
and then bought the frame kits from HD. BTW, these frame kits had PVC
about the last 6 inches or so on the side frames. That and several
coats of quality paint MAY prevent rot. Anyway it was such a pain
setting the first one up we ended up going back to HD to look at
pre-hungs.

They had some "special purchase" units for around $175, a really great
deal. In order to protect the frame we painted the bottom half of the
frames (which did NOT have PVC ends on the frame sides) with a 1 to 4
mix of Penetrol and oil based primer. You need to seal the end grain
of the frame before you install it to prevent water from wicking up
into the wood and eventually rotting it out. Trust me, we found that
out through experience on a remodel of our previous house.

FWIW,
Ron

From tputland at charter.net  Tue Nov  9 13:23:28 2010
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 2010 12:23:28 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Replacing a Door
In-Reply-To: <003601cb8013$932c0260$b9840720$@ameritech.net>
Message-ID: <20101109152328.7JSLM.7828629.root@mp20>

"planned obsolescence"...

I thought that was Microsoft's motto.


Tim
Dairyland Datsuns


---- Karl Vacek <kvacek at ameritech.net> wrote: 

=============
Most of us have prehung steel doors on our hangars at the airport, mostly
Mastercraft from Menard's because that used to be the only place nearby.
Just like Phil's experience, everyone's wood frame rots out under the
extruded plastic at the bottom of the side jambs.  I caulked mine thoroughly
and the caulk is still adhered and flexible, but the jambs are rotting
nonetheless.

It's a common enough problem that they sell a replacement frame kit.  And
they used to accuse Detroit of "planned obsolescence"...

Karl


From: pethier at comcast.net
Sent: Monday, November 08, 2010 21:59
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Replacing a Door

Put in a new prehung steel exterior door.  The one I have between my heated
shop and my cold garage has lasted these ten years OK.  

The one on the exterior of my garage has seen the effects of weather,
though.  The wood has gone wonky at the bottom.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tputland at charter.net

From cavanadd at frontier.com  Tue Nov  9 20:09:41 2010
From: cavanadd at frontier.com (David C.)
Date: Tue, 09 Nov 2010 19:09:41 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Replacing a Door
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTi=U+nux54_HpH46O=ABoVZzSiJ+3aUZiXoypo6U@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTik78VPL2_3GW8Gf6Fnz9oow-06BnUgu1apKKwbH@mail.gmail.com>
	<1763186681.729278.1289275117778.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<AANLkTi=U+nux54_HpH46O=ABoVZzSiJ+3aUZiXoypo6U@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4CDA0CF5.6000503@frontier.com>

I can second that.  A year or so ago I decided to get rid of one of the 
garage doors on my shop building.  The shop is a wood framed metal clad 
pole barn and the door was a 10 x 10 foot metal slider.   I framed in 
the opening and left a rough opening for a pair of man doors, then had 
the contractor that built it put siding on my framing job using the 
metal from the old garage door plus some extra I had.  Then I went to an 
architectural salvage place and got two matched exterior doors.  They 
were mortised for hinges but that was all.  (They were also heavy as 
hell.)  I had never hung a single door, let alone a double, but I didn't 
know any better and so framed in the opening and got the doors hung.  By 
myself.  HUGE PITA.  Took all of one day.  Just putting the doors up on 
the hinge pins used up probably a years worth of swearing.  It turned 
out OK.  Don't ask me to do it again.  (The original doors slid sideways 
and were drafty as hell.  Birds could, and did, get in.  I replaced he 
other one with a segmented roll up door that I was smart enough to 
contract out.)

Ronnie Day wrote:
> Unless you're experienced in hanging doors, buy a pre-hung unit. We
> just went through that with a couple of exterior doors on the place
> we're building. Bought a couple of used (solid core/metal clad) doors
> and then bought the frame kits from HD. BTW, these frame kits had PVC
> about the last 6 inches or so on the side frames. That and several
> coats of quality paint MAY prevent rot. Anyway it was such a pain
> setting the first one up we ended up going back to HD to look at
> pre-hungs.

From jniolon at bham.rr.com  Tue Nov 16 12:21:27 2010
From: jniolon at bham.rr.com (john niolon)
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2010 13:21:27 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] pc to hdtv hookup (in the shop)
Message-ID: <3FCA8CAA59C441F1BBA07248B3F9A451@OwnerPC>

need some expertise... laptop to HDTV hook up thru a home theatre system...
get the picture fine by using the remote monitor cable straight to the tv...
but no sound... tried a submini audio cable from the pc headphone jack to the
jack on the theater and the TV  no sound....

what do I need to do to hear my pc audio thru my tv and/or home theater
system...

I'm such a retard !




During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary
act. George Orwell

From bjshov8 at tx.rr.com  Tue Nov 16 13:00:25 2010
From: bjshov8 at tx.rr.com (bjshov8 at tx.rr.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2010 15:00:25 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] pc to hdtv hookup (in the shop)
In-Reply-To: <3FCA8CAA59C441F1BBA07248B3F9A451@OwnerPC>
Message-ID: <20101116200025.2HXHO.114197.root@cdptpa-web21-z02>

I seem to have read that some video outs don't include the sound channels, or maybe your cable isn't transmitting the sound channels.  You may need to do some research regarding your own laptop to see how it operates.  If it turns out that your laptop isn't putting out sound on the hdmi output then you can possibly buy an adapter that will combine the hdmi output and the submini audio output into one cable.

There are some places on the net that sell a wide variety of different cables and adapters.  They likely make something that would plug in and work for you.  I have a link at home that I can send tonight if you need it.


> need some expertise... laptop to HDTV hook up thru a home theatre system...
> get the picture fine by using the remote monitor cable straight to the tv...
> but no sound... tried a submini audio cable from the pc headphone jack to the
> jack on the theater and the TV  no sound....

From doug at dougbraun.com  Tue Nov 16 13:14:03 2010
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Douglas Braun)
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2010 15:14:03 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] pc to hdtv hookup (in the shop)
In-Reply-To: <3FCA8CAA59C441F1BBA07248B3F9A451@OwnerPC>
References: <3FCA8CAA59C441F1BBA07248B3F9A451@OwnerPC>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikgJctq2XiQWnUPR7N3=xkOUSBVGCurSAy2LeRZ@mail.gmail.com>

Laptops are generally a poor choice for dedicated use with a TV.  It
can be hard to get the video output to be well-tuned for the TV set.
If you get a PC with an HDMI output designed for TV use, things will
go smoother.  For example, the audio will be carried on the same
cable.

I have gotten a laptop to work like you described, feeding the video
directly to the TV, and the audio to the home theater receiver, but it
was a pain, and required my presence for anybody else to use it.

I nave an Onkyo HT receiver, which I am very happy with.  It is a
couple of years old, and its only weakness is that it has only two
HDMI inputs, which are taken up by the cable STB and the Blu-ray
player.  If I wanted to add a PC, I would need an additional switchbox
or a newer receiver.

Of course, the TV has lots of inputs of all types and a pair of
speakers, which are
of course all unneeded, except for the HDMI input from the HT receiver.

Doug


On Tue, Nov 16, 2010 at 2:21 PM, john niolon <jniolon at bham.rr.com> wrote:
> need some expertise... laptop to HDTV hook up thru a home theatre system...
> get the picture fine by using the remote monitor cable straight to the
tv...
> but no sound... tried a submini audio cable from the pc headphone jack to
the
> jack on the theater and the TV  no sound....
>
> what do I need to do to hear my pc audio thru my tv and/or home theater
> system...
>
> I'm such a retard !
>
>
>
>
> During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary
> act. George Orwell
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug at dougbraun.com

From bjshov8 at tx.rr.com  Tue Nov 16 13:21:59 2010
From: bjshov8 at tx.rr.com (bjshov8 at tx.rr.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2010 15:21:59 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] pc to hdtv hookup (in the shop)
In-Reply-To: <3FCA8CAA59C441F1BBA07248B3F9A451@OwnerPC>
Message-ID: <20101116202159.X2WSH.114356.root@cdptpa-web21-z02>

OK, I looked it up from work.  This online store was recommended to me and they have a ton of different cables.  I didn't look to see if they had this specific one or not.  I buy computer stuff from newegg.com, they might have the appropriate cable too.

monoprice.com

 
> I'd be interested in that link regardless whether the original poster is or not please. 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Tim

> =============
> I seem to have read that some video outs don't include the sound channels, or maybe your cable isn't transmitting the sound channels.  You may need to do some research regarding your own laptop to see how it operates.  If it turns out that your laptop isn't putting out sound on the hdmi output then you can possibly buy an adapter that will combine the hdmi output and the submini audio output into one cable.
> 
> There are some places on the net that sell a wide variety of different cables and adapters.  They likely make something that would plug in and work for you.  I have a link at home that I can send tonight if you need it.
> 
> 
> > need some expertise... laptop to HDTV hook up thru a home theatre system...
> > get the picture fine by using the remote monitor cable straight to the tv...
> > but no sound... tried a submini audio cable from the pc headphone jack to the
> > jack on the theater and the TV  no sound....

From shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org  Tue Nov 16 13:22:26 2010
From: shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org (shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org)
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2010 15:22:26 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] pc to hdtv hookup (in the shop)
In-Reply-To: <3FCA8CAA59C441F1BBA07248B3F9A451@OwnerPC>
References: <3FCA8CAA59C441F1BBA07248B3F9A451@OwnerPC>
Message-ID: <MTAwMDAyNS5tY2ZldHJpaQ.1289938953@quikprotect>

Hi John,

This was befuddling to me when I first connected my PC to my HDTV.

Here's how I think you have it setup:
PC:
Video output:  RGB 15 pin output (no sound)
Audio output:  headphone jack

HDTV:
Video input:  RGB 15 pin input
Audio input:  ??  On my setup, I use a RadioShack headphone to RCA plug
converter and plug into my stereo.

My first challenge was to turn on the audio output for the headphone jack --
test that with headphones until I had it working.  Also, note the volume on
the PC should be about 75% to generate enough voltage without clipping the
signal.

My second challenge was that I wanted surround sound and my stereo only had
RCA jacks, so I need that headphone to RCA stereo converter.  

Home this helps,
Ian

From mbarre at juno.com  Tue Nov 16 13:43:51 2010
From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt)
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2010 20:43:51 GMT
Subject: [Shop-talk] pc to hdtv hookup (in the shop)
Message-ID: <20101116.154351.2722.5@webmail10.vgs.untd.com>

Meritline and dealextreme also have cheap misc cables and adaptors.
The Chinese saw the outrageous prices being charged for things like HDMI,
toslink, etc and started cranking them out by the thousands for pennies.
You end up waiting a few weeks for delivery but once I decided to order, I
stocked up on all kinds of stuff - save on multiple shipping!

Just confirm with headphones that you are getting audio out from the computer,
then feed it to any of the stereo inputs.

Matt

---------- Original Message ----------
From: <bjshov8 at tx.rr.com>
To: shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] pc to hdtv hookup (in the shop)
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2010 15:21:59 -0500

OK, I looked it up from work.  This online store was recommended to me and
they have a ton of different cables.  I didn't look to see if they had this
specific one or not.  I buy computer stuff from newegg.com, they might have
the appropriate cable too.

monoprice.com
> I seem to have read that some video outs don't include the sound channels,
or maybe your cable isn't transmitting the sound channels.  You may need to do
some research regarding your own laptop to see how it operates.  If it turns
out that your laptop isn't putting out sound on the hdmi output then you can
possibly buy an adapter that will combine the hdmi output and the submini
audio output into one cable.
>
> There are some places on the net that sell a wide variety of different
cables and adapters.  They likely make something that would plug in and work
for you.  I have a link at home that I can send tonight if you need it.

From wmc_st at xxiii.com  Tue Nov 16 14:51:13 2010
From: wmc_st at xxiii.com (Wayne)
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2010 16:51:13 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop stereo
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikgJctq2XiQWnUPR7N3=xkOUSBVGCurSAy2LeRZ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <3FCA8CAA59C441F1BBA07248B3F9A451@OwnerPC>
	<AANLkTikgJctq2XiQWnUPR7N3=xkOUSBVGCurSAy2LeRZ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4CE2FCD1.8080704@xxiii.com>

On 11/16/2010 3:14 PM, Douglas Braun wrote:
> I nave an Onkyo HT receiver, which I am very happy with.  It is a
> couple of years old, and its only weakness is that it has only two
> HDMI inputs, which are taken up by the cable STB and the Blu-ray

On the flip side.... if you need a receiver, say for your Shop or 
Garage, there are some really nice AV receivers sans HDMI on Ebay for a 
steal!  I scored a nice Onkyo with 7.1 and option to use as a dual 
indoor / outdoor receiver for only $90.  HDMI is great, but has rendered 
a lot of nearly new equipment obsolete before its time.

-Wayne

From doug at dougbraun.com  Tue Nov 16 15:27:02 2010
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Douglas Braun)
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2010 17:27:02 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] pc to hdtv hookup (in the shop)
In-Reply-To: <20101116.154351.2722.5@webmail10.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20101116.154351.2722.5@webmail10.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikEzZZ-Grg_L3iHAMgiRYw-BjhLSupntDksd9tb@mail.gmail.com>

I prefer monoprice.com to dealextreme.com for cables.  I have gotten
cables from DX that were simply too junky to work reliability. Also,
Monoprice ships from LA, not Hong Kong.

But then, DX has a lot of interesting gadgets besides cables...


Doug

On Tue, Nov 16, 2010 at 3:43 PM, Matt <mbarre at juno.com> wrote:
> Meritline and dealextreme also have cheap misc cables and adaptors.
> The Chinese saw the outrageous prices being charged for things like HDMI,
> toslink, etc and started cranking them out by the thousands for pennies.
> You end up waiting a few weeks for delivery but once I decided to order, I
> stocked up on all kinds of stuff - save on multiple shipping!

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Tue Nov 16 15:44:55 2010
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2010 17:44:55 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] pc to hdtv hookup (in the shop)
In-Reply-To: <20101116.154351.2722.5@webmail10.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20101116.154351.2722.5@webmail10.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinseYmu1T1dQxXOsJ2sPub8G1wkHm9J1Hz328wQ@mail.gmail.com>

On Tue, Nov 16, 2010 at 3:43 PM, Matt <mbarre at juno.com> wrote:
> Meritline and dealextreme also have cheap misc cables and adaptors.
> The Chinese saw the outrageous prices being charged for things like HDMI,
> toslink, etc and started cranking them out by the thousands for pennies.
> You end up waiting a few weeks for delivery but once I decided to order, I
> stocked up on all kinds of stuff - save on multiple shipping!
>

Monoprice offer perfectly reasonable prices (often less than
dealextreme), realistic shipping charges, are very fast, are in the US
(even though most of their stuff is chinese, of course), and,  unlike
dealextreme, don't put fake CE and UL stickers on stuff they sell.

Bonus: they answer their email.


-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From jniolon at bham.rr.com  Wed Nov 17 07:56:47 2010
From: jniolon at bham.rr.com (john niolon)
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2010 08:56:47 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] pc to hdtv hookup - conclusion
Message-ID: <02298CDE869E4605B492B6D83CEA9CAE@OwnerPC>

after some further investigation (looking more closely at the back of the set)
I found another audio in socket...the 3.5 mm size... I cabled from the pc
headphone output to this jack and the sound came thru... now, I'm not through
the home theater yet but at least I have volume and better quality sound for
my internet broadcasts...

thanks for all the suggestions and help
john




During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary
act. George Orwell

From fortee9er at yahoo.com  Wed Nov 17 20:33:33 2010
From: fortee9er at yahoo.com (Jorge Garcia)
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2010 19:33:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Shop-talk] amateur body work
Message-ID: <109365.86777.qm@web54507.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi Guys,
I have a 1998 GMC Safari (same as Chevy Astro) that was in pretty good shape until my son decided to butt heads with an immovable object. I have stripped all the damaged body panels (hood, bumper&cover, grill, and one fender) to asses the damage to the body structure and can only find that the radiator support was kinked inwards less than one inch. While this doesn't sound very bad it does throw off the alignment of the front fender (pass side). The Safari/Astro use unibody construction and the radiator support panel is a substantial piece of metal. Specially the horizontal piece at the top where the damage is. This part is boxed and gaining access behind the damaged area is nearly impossible without removing a LOT of junk. Do you guys have any suggestions?
Thanks 
Jorge 

From bjshov8 at tx.rr.com  Wed Nov 17 20:50:27 2010
From: bjshov8 at tx.rr.com (BJNoSHOV8)
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2010 21:50:27 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] amateur body work
In-Reply-To: <109365.86777.qm@web54507.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <109365.86777.qm@web54507.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4CE4A283.1010002@tx.rr.com>

When my dad had a body shop we used to send these types of things to our 
local frame shop.  They would pull the structure back to proper position 
then the body panels should fit properly.


> I have a 1998 GMC Safari (same as Chevy Astro) that was in pretty good shape until my son decided to butt heads with an immovable object. I have stripped all the damaged body panels (hood, bumper&cover, grill, and one fender) to asses the damage to the body structure and can only find that the radiator support was kinked inwards less than one inch. While this doesn't sound very bad it does throw off the alignment of the front fender (pass side). The Safari/Astro use unibody construction and the radiator support panel is a substantial piece of metal. Specially the horizontal piece at the top where the damage is. This part is boxed and gaining access behind the damaged area is nearly impossible without removing a LOT of junk. Do you guys have any suggestions?

From jibjib at att.net  Wed Nov 17 21:46:17 2010
From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks)
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2010 20:46:17 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] [Bulk]  pc to hdtv hookup (in the shop)
In-Reply-To: <3FCA8CAA59C441F1BBA07248B3F9A451@OwnerPC>
Message-ID: <98137.23058.qm@smtp104.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

John,

You can get a 3.5mm stereo jack to RCA Jack from Monoprice too.  This will
plug into your laptop headphone output and into your stereo receiver.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10218&cs_id=102
1804&p_id=666&seq=1&format=2

It's $0.61.  It helps to order a few items at once.  You can pick up a
similar cable or an adapter at any computer store for a few dollars.

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of john niolon
Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 2010 11:21 AM
To: shop-talk
Subject: [Bulk] [Shop-talk] pc to hdtv hookup (in the shop)

need some expertise... laptop to HDTV hook up thru a home theatre system...
get the picture fine by using the remote monitor cable straight to the tv...
but no sound... tried a submini audio cable from the pc headphone jack to
the
jack on the theater and the TV  no sound....

what do I need to do to hear my pc audio thru my tv and/or home theater
system...

I'm such a retard !




During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary
act. George Orwell
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From jibjib at att.net  Wed Nov 17 21:41:16 2010
From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks)
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2010 20:41:16 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] pc to hdtv hookup (in the shop)
In-Reply-To: <20101116202159.X2WSH.114356.root@cdptpa-web21-z02>
Message-ID: <665376.28962.qm@smtp107.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Monoprice rocks.  They have a great reputation in the AV circles as being a
source of excellent equipment and good prices.  I use them extensively for
LAN and networking products and learned about them from an AV/Networking
forum.

I buy for Dealextreme also and respect them as a vendor, but not for good
quality audio gear.  Some of their stuff is good and some is junk.  It's
kind of like Harbor Freight.  I have not found anyone who can beat Monoprice
for consistent quality and price.

John - Was the cable used to connect the computer to the TV a standard
monitor cable, HDMI or DVI?  HDMI carries audio and video.  DVI and the
Sub-D (standard monitor cable) only video.  DVI is a plug with lots of pins,
and one wide horizontal pin on one end, whereas HDMI, kind of looks like a
USB with truncated corners on one long side.  Adding the 3.5 mm plug for
sound is what you need.  

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of bjshov8 at tx.rr.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 2010 12:22 PM
To: shop-talk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] pc to hdtv hookup (in the shop)

OK, I looked it up from work.  This online store was recommended to me and
they have a ton of different cables.  I didn't look to see if they had this
specific one or not.  I buy computer stuff from newegg.com, they might have
the appropriate cable too.

monoprice.com

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Wed Nov 17 23:30:08 2010
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Thu, 18 Nov 2010 01:30:08 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] amateur body work
In-Reply-To: <4CE4A283.1010002@tx.rr.com>
References: <109365.86777.qm@web54507.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<4CE4A283.1010002@tx.rr.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimwDKHJKNzHgK4izP_XAdH3m6ad6q0vgU=ejbyX@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, Nov 17, 2010 at 10:50 PM, BJNoSHOV8 <bjshov8 at tx.rr.com> wrote:
> When my dad had a body shop we used to send these types of things to our
> local frame shop. B They would pull the structure back to proper position
> then the body panels should fit properly.
>

Yeah, call your frame shops.  You might be able to find someone who is
willing to work with you on having you do all the other work, and who
can tell you how much you need to pull for them to work their magic.
(particularly, if you can be without the truck for a while.)  It might
be less than you think, or it might be a lot more.  there are reasons
collision repair is expensive.

>
>> I have a 1998 GMC Safari (same as Chevy Astro) that was in pretty good
>> shape until my son decided to butt heads with an immovable object. I have
>> stripped all the damaged body panels (hood, bumper&cover, grill, and one
>> fender) to asses the damage to the body structure and can only find that
the
>> radiator support was kinked inwards less than one inch. While this doesn't
>> sound very bad it does throw off the alignment of the front fender (pass
>> side). The Safari/Astro use unibody construction and the radiator support
>> panel is a substantial piece of metal. Specially the horizontal piece at
the
>> top where the damage is. This part is boxed and gaining access behind the
>> damaged area is nearly impossible without removing a LOT of junk. Do you
>> guys have any suggestions?
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation B $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dmscheidt at gmail.com
>
>



--
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From eric at megageek.com  Thu Nov 18 08:05:52 2010
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Thu, 18 Nov 2010 10:05:52 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] amateur body work
In-Reply-To: <109365.86777.qm@web54507.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <OF2314A9B3.8BB18A68-ON852577DF.00542B0A-852577DF.00544AAF@mail.megageek.com>

I'm not a body shop guy, but in the past, for "down and dirty" work, we 
would just hook a chain to the mount, the other end to a tree and back the 
truck up.  This is a "poor man's" straightening technic.

Moose
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 




Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com> 
Sent by: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
11/17/2010 22:23

To
Shop-talk at autox.team.net
cc

Subject
[Shop-talk] amateur body work






Hi Guys,
I have a 1998 GMC Safari (same as Chevy Astro) that was in pretty good 
shape until my son decided to butt heads with an immovable object. I have 
stripped all the damaged body panels (hood, bumper&cover, grill, and one 
fender) to asses the damage to the body structure and can only find that 
the radiator support was kinked inwards less than one inch. While this 
doesn't sound very bad it does throw off the alignment of the front fender 
(pass side). The Safari/Astro use unibody construction and the radiator 
support panel is a substantial piece of metal. Specially the horizontal 
piece at the top where the damage is. This part is boxed and gaining 
access behind the damaged area is nearly impossible without removing a LOT 
of junk. Do you guys have any suggestions?
Thanks 
Jorge 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eric at megageek.com

From wamrazing at gmail.com  Thu Nov 18 13:31:59 2010
From: wamrazing at gmail.com (Storm Field)
Date: Thu, 18 Nov 2010 15:31:59 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] amateur body work
In-Reply-To: <4CE4A283.1010002@tx.rr.com>
References: <109365.86777.qm@web54507.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<4CE4A283.1010002@tx.rr.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTik4HHorraDecQXd-Q_X-3wENBoastMe2tUCEjeN@mail.gmail.com>

After reading Eric's suggestion on "poor man's" body work technique I can
add perhaps a little refinement to his technique.

Used to race with someone who didn't even have a shoestring to budget on and
when he needed to do frame work, he would run a chain from a town drainage
pipe to a come a long and thence to the offending part. He'd just crank on
the come a long until it "looked about right" and go from there.

Personally, I would go to a frame shop...if I could afford it, but in this
case, it doesn't seem like the damage had any affect on anything but the fit
of the body panels...

Good Luck,
Storm

On Wed, Nov 17, 2010 at 10:50 PM, BJNoSHOV8 <bjshov8 at tx.rr.com> wrote:

> When my dad had a body shop we used to send these types of things to our
> local frame shop.  They would pull the structure back to proper position
> then the body panels should fit properly.
>
>
>
> I have a 1998 GMC Safari (same as Chevy Astro) that was in pretty good
>> shape until my son decided to butt heads with an immovable object. I have
>> stripped all the damaged body panels (hood, bumper&cover, grill, and one
>> fender) to asses the damage to the body structure and can only find that the
>> radiator support was kinked inwards less than one inch. While this doesn't
>> sound very bad it does throw off the alignment of the front fender (pass
>> side). The Safari/Astro use unibody construction and the radiator support
>> panel is a substantial piece of metal. Specially the horizontal piece at the
>> top where the damage is. This part is boxed and gaining access behind the
>> damaged area is nearly impossible without removing a LOT of junk. Do you
>> guys have any suggestions?
>>
>  _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/wamrazing at gmail.com

From eltonclark at gmail.com  Thu Nov 18 13:55:59 2010
From: eltonclark at gmail.com (Elton E. (Tony) Clark)
Date: Thu, 18 Nov 2010 14:55:59 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] amateur body work
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTik4HHorraDecQXd-Q_X-3wENBoastMe2tUCEjeN@mail.gmail.com>
References: <109365.86777.qm@web54507.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<4CE4A283.1010002@tx.rr.com>
	<AANLkTik4HHorraDecQXd-Q_X-3wENBoastMe2tUCEjeN@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=gc+Thdbt=0_Gn7xRr2YKtQzfHk+qQGkdppXP_@mail.gmail.com>

*A friend had a shop next to an Exxon station.  They had a 50 foot sign on
two hefty beams.  Ol' Gus would wait 'til they closed and use the sign post
for his "Kansas Jack".  He finally stopped that after he accidently pulled a
Pinto apart at the firewall! *

From bjshov8 at tx.rr.com  Sun Nov 21 15:24:01 2010
From: bjshov8 at tx.rr.com (BJNoSHOV8)
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2010 16:24:01 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] A quick comparison of cordless tools
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTik4HHorraDecQXd-Q_X-3wENBoastMe2tUCEjeN@mail.gmail.com>
References: <109365.86777.qm@web54507.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<4CE4A283.1010002@tx.rr.com>
	<AANLkTik4HHorraDecQXd-Q_X-3wENBoastMe2tUCEjeN@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4CE99C01.9070808@tx.rr.com>

When Home Depot was selling off some of their cordless sets last year I 
bought a set by Ridgid that includes drill, impact driver, 
recriprocating saw, flashlight and 2 18V Lion batteries.  I haven't had 
much occasion to use them until recently.  Friday I bought a 2x4 at 
HomeDepot for a little project, and actually needed it in 2 pieces so I 
took the cordless saw with me thinking I could cut off the one piece and 
then the remainder would fit in my car easier.  I noticed that after 
cutting about 1/2" through the board the saw stopped.  It would restart 
but only about 1/8" before stopping again.  I did this for awhile until 
I got all the way through the board- cut, stop, cut, stop, ....  I 
thought maybe something was wrong with the saw.  Today I was assembling 
things and had to put in some long 1/4" lag bolts, so I thought I would 
use the impact driver.  It basically worked the same way- start, stop, 
start, stop.  I did quite a bit with the drill and it worked fine until 
I decided I would screw in the long lag bolts with it instead.  It 
eventually got to the same point- drill, stop, drill, stop, etc.  Now 
I'm beginning to wonder if there is something wrong with the batteries.  
I know that Lithium batteries have builtin circuitry to keep them from 
over-charging or over-discharging.  I wonder if this protection circuit 
is limiting the current that the batteries put out to keep them from 
overheating.

As a test I pulled out my old DeWalt 14.4V NiCad drill.  It would 
actually out-torque the 18V Lithium drill on these long lag bolts.

From eric at megageek.com  Sun Nov 21 16:16:25 2010
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2010 18:16:25 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] A quick comparison of cordless tools
In-Reply-To: <4CE99C01.9070808@tx.rr.com>
Message-ID: <OF2E5BB5B6.759C240B-ON852577E2.00810C1A-852577E2.0081342F@mail.megageek.com>

I am still not convinced that Lithium is the way to go.  My trust Dewalt 
18v NiCd beats the pants off anything else I have used.  In fact, I have a 
B&D 24 Volt system and the Dewalt 18v beats it hands down.

I just wish replacement batteries weren't so expensive

Moose
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 

From eric at megageek.com  Sun Nov 21 16:25:26 2010
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2010 18:25:26 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] The biggest challenge yet  (shop related)
Message-ID: <OF1B9D760D.FF53BBF7-ON852577E2.008135A6-852577E2.0082073F@mail.megageek.com>

OK, here is the deal.  Since returning from Afghanistan, I've been out of 
work.  So, I started farming my property for wood.

I've got a great work chain from standing dead tree all the way to stacked 
on pallets to move the inventory or even delivery.

But here is my challenge...

Many people here sell firewood on the road side for about $10-$20 a stack. 
 All of them are on the "honor system" for payment.

Since I live directly across from a state park, I have an ideal set up for 
selling a campfire's worth of wood at a time.  BUT, many of the campers 
don't pay for the wood.

So, I want to build a metal cage (multiple cages actually) for the wood. 
Once a person pays for the wood, the door is unlocked.

There is no electricity by the end of the road, so many options are out. 
Also, if I was selling it for less than a dollar, it would be easy to make 
a mechanism to open with coins.

But I need a system where people can put in dollar bills (or $10s or $20s) 
and it "reads" the bill to open the gate.

Does ANYONE have ANY ideas?  My house is set far back from the road so 
wood piles do get stolen.  I was even thinking about a portable credit 
card machine maybe, but I have no idea what is involved with getting a 
unit that is weather proof and battery based.

Any help will be appreciated, and a prize will be awarded to the person 
that comes up with the best solution that solves the problem.  Thanks a 
bunch!

Moose
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 

From salbrigh at nycap.rr.com  Sun Nov 21 17:07:17 2010
From: salbrigh at nycap.rr.com (Skip Albright)
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2010 19:07:17 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] The biggest challenge yet  (shop related)
In-Reply-To: <OF1B9D760D.FF53BBF7-ON852577E2.008135A6-852577E2.0082073F@
	mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF1B9D760D.FF53BBF7-ON852577E2.008135A6-852577E2.0082073F@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20101121190609.03a90bc0@pop.nycap.rr.com>

Put a large video camera on a pole overlooking the wood.


doesn't have to work. just look like it does

Skip

At 06:25 PM 11/21/2010, you wrote:
>OK, here is the deal.  Since returning from Afghanistan, I've been out of
>work.  So, I started farming my property for wood.
>
>I've got a great work chain from standing dead tree all the way to stacked
>on pallets to move the inventory or even delivery.
>
>But here is my challenge...
>
>Many people here sell firewood on the road side for about $10-$20 a stack.
>  All of them are on the "honor system" for payment.
>
>Since I live directly across from a state park, I have an ideal set up for
>selling a campfire's worth of wood at a time.  BUT, many of the campers
>don't pay for the wood.
>
>So, I want to build a metal cage (multiple cages actually) for the wood.
>Once a person pays for the wood, the door is unlocked.
>
>There is no electricity by the end of the road, so many options are out.
>Also, if I was selling it for less than a dollar, it would be easy to make
>a mechanism to open with coins.
>
>But I need a system where people can put in dollar bills (or $10s or $20s)
>and it "reads" the bill to open the gate.
>
>Does ANYONE have ANY ideas?  My house is set far back from the road so
>wood piles do get stolen.  I was even thinking about a portable credit
>card machine maybe, but I have no idea what is involved with getting a
>unit that is weather proof and battery based.
>
>Any help will be appreciated, and a prize will be awarded to the person
>that comes up with the best solution that solves the problem.  Thanks a
>bunch!
>
>Moose
>"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
>being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
>Waldo Emerson
>_______________________________________________
>
>Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/salbrigh at nycap.rr.com

Nothing is as it appears
Skip Albright
Glenmont NY
salbrigh at nycap.rr.com
http://www.volvoskip.com/

From bolin at mwt.net  Sun Nov 21 17:37:22 2010
From: bolin at mwt.net (Bob Jeffers)
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2010 18:37:22 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] The biggest challenge yet (shop related)
In-Reply-To: <OF1B9D760D.FF53BBF7-ON852577E2.008135A6-852577E2.0082073F@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF1B9D760D.FF53BBF7-ON852577E2.008135A6-852577E2.0082073F@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <8C0DA5722A2F479A809519A7436F3381@BobPC>

Put the sign down by the road and make them drive up to the house to get the 
wood or put a camera down by the road and when someone doesn't pay you have 
a picture and then you can have the police prosecute or you can do it your 
self.



----- Original Message ----- 
From: <eric at megageek.com>
To: <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2010 5:25 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] The biggest challenge yet (shop related)


> OK, here is the deal.  Since returning from Afghanistan, I've been out of
> work.  So, I started farming my property for wood.
>
> I've got a great work chain from standing dead tree all the way to stacked
> on pallets to move the inventory or even delivery.
>
> But here is my challenge...
>
> Many people here sell firewood on the road side for about $10-$20 a stack.
> All of them are on the "honor system" for payment.
>
> Since I live directly across from a state park, I have an ideal set up for
> selling a campfire's worth of wood at a time.  BUT, many of the campers
> don't pay for the wood.
>
> So, I want to build a metal cage (multiple cages actually) for the wood.
> Once a person pays for the wood, the door is unlocked.
>
> There is no electricity by the end of the road, so many options are out.
> Also, if I was selling it for less than a dollar, it would be easy to make
> a mechanism to open with coins.
>
> But I need a system where people can put in dollar bills (or $10s or $20s)
> and it "reads" the bill to open the gate.
>
> Does ANYONE have ANY ideas?  My house is set far back from the road so
> wood piles do get stolen.  I was even thinking about a portable credit
> card machine maybe, but I have no idea what is involved with getting a
> unit that is weather proof and battery based.
>
> Any help will be appreciated, and a prize will be awarded to the person
> that comes up with the best solution that solves the problem.  Thanks a
> bunch!
>
> Moose
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bolin at mwt.net

From racertod at racertodd.com  Sun Nov 21 19:12:27 2010
From: racertod at racertodd.com (Todd Walke)
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2010 18:12:27 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] The biggest challenge yet  (shop related)
In-Reply-To: <OF1B9D760D.FF53BBF7-ON852577E2.008135A6-852577E2.0082073F@
	mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20101121171843.00bc6bc0@mail.avvanta.com>

         There are 12v-powered bill validators that you could power with a 
car battery and a solar charger.  Probably too expensive for this 
application, though...
<http://www.meigroup.com/usa/amusement/amusement_products/bill_acceptors/mei_12v_battery_powered_v/>

         Here's a thought.  Inspired by the pay lockers you'd find at bus 
stations.

         Step 1:  Build a wood bin.  Think individual cubicles, each 
holding a "stack" of wood.  Each cubicle has a door with a lock.  Each lock 
takes a different key.

         Step 2: Find a cheap, used vending machine that takes 
bills.  Vending machine goes on the porch, where there is electricity and 
it's out of the weather.  Vending machine dishes out keys.  Each key has a 
tag indicating which door in the wood bin it opens.

         A sign goes at the end of the drive.  People pay at the vending 
machine, take the key and open a bin to get their wood.

         Only flaw - you'd need people to leave the key so you can re-stock 
it into the vending machine.  You could make several extra keys for each 
lock, that's cheap.  But if they keep the key, what stops them from 
returning later to open that bin again and getting free wood?  You could 
replace a lock every time someone takes the key - that'd work if the locks 
are cheap.
         Or think up a mechanism that trips when the key is turned, 
preventing the lock from rotating back to the lock position (where the key 
can be removed).  That'd work if the locks only permit the key to be 
removed in one position.

         Anyway, that's an idea off the top of my head.  If I win the 
contest I'll expect a nickel royalty per stack :)


Todd
Seattle,WA
'86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 272,000 miles
'01 Golf TDI, silver.   (new work car)       262,000 miles
'87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car)   654,000 miles <- Gone to a new 
home :(
http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Nov 21 22:04:46 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2010 21:04:46 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] The biggest challenge yet  (shop related)
In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.2.20101121171843.00bc6bc0@mail.avvanta.com>
References: <OF1B9D760D.FF53BBF7-ON852577E2.008135A6-852577E2.0082073F@mail.megageek.com>
	<5.1.0.14.2.20101121171843.00bc6bc0@mail.avvanta.com>
Message-ID: <03ec01cb8a02$c8df5bc0$0301a8c0@randall>

> But if they keep the key, what stops them from 
> returning later to open that bin again and getting free wood? 

Hmm, I wonder how expensive some used "credit card" locks (like those found
on hotel rooms) would be?  Surely by now, someone has remodeled a hotel and
replaced the locks ... so when you restock the bin, you just rekey the lock.
And I'll bet you could find surplus cards really cheap, if you didn't care
what was printed on them.  Apparently you can even get them for free, if
they have advertising on them:
http://www.globalmediagroup.us/

-- Randall  

From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com  Mon Nov 22 04:11:55 2010
From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott Hall)
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 2010 06:11:55 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] The biggest challenge yet  (shop related)
In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.2.20101121171843.00bc6bc0@mail.avvanta.com>
References: <5.1.0.14.2.20101121171843.00bc6bc0@mail.avvanta.com>
Message-ID: <4CEA4FFB.5090706@gmail.com>

I'd think a solar gate charger/opener would supply enough juice.  Add a 
car battery, and you can power the portable credit card validation and 
cell modem.

But then you're paying for the credit card service, the cell modem, 
etc.  Add a video camera (working or just for show) and that'd probably 
do it.

I like the 'make them drive up to the house' idea.  Much cheaper.

If not that, I'd go with Todd's idea, but they make locks that you can 
open once then the key is trapped.  Then you have to come and extract 
the key, which you can replace in the dispensing unit.  You've probably 
seen them in bus stations, airports, whatever.  But I'll be those aren't 
cheap either, unless you find a set of those lockers being tossed.

I mean, you can do it...but that's a lot more work than a sign pointing 
them up the road to your house.

But yeah, bills into used candy-bar-style machine that drops key, which 
they insert into locker to open door and get wood would work.  You just 
need the used vending machine, the locks/keys/the fairly large (I bet, 
if it's going to run a vending machine) solar charger and a few car 
batteries, then build the lockers themselves, and you're good to go.  
Fasten the vending machine to something sturdy, and put it under an awning.

You know...now that I think about it, if that vending machine isn't 
running a compressor to cool the contents (and I don't think those kind 
are), its power needs might not be that extreme.  So maybe you wouldn't 
need that big of a charger/battery.  What you need is someone closing a 
bowling alley.  :-)

Scott

On 11/21/2010 9:12 PM, Todd Walke wrote:
>         There are 12v-powered bill validators that you could power 
> with a car battery and a solar charger.  Probably too expensive for 
> this application, though...
> <http://www.meigroup.com/usa/amusement/amusement_products/bill_acceptors/mei_12v_battery_powered_v/> 
>
>
>         Here's a thought.  Inspired by the pay lockers you'd find at 
> bus stations.
>
>         Step 1:  Build a wood bin.  Think individual cubicles, each 
> holding a "stack" of wood.  Each cubicle has a door with a lock.  Each 
> lock takes a different key.
>
>         Step 2: Find a cheap, used vending machine that takes bills.  
> Vending machine goes on the porch, where there is electricity and it's 
> out of the weather.  Vending machine dishes out keys.  Each key has a 
> tag indicating which door in the wood bin it opens.
>
>         A sign goes at the end of the drive.  People pay at the 
> vending machine, take the key and open a bin to get their wood.
>
>         Only flaw - you'd need people to leave the key so you can 
> re-stock it into the vending machine.  You could make several extra 
> keys for each lock, that's cheap.  But if they keep the key, what 
> stops them from returning later to open that bin again and getting 
> free wood?  You could replace a lock every time someone takes the key 
> - that'd work if the locks are cheap.
>         Or think up a mechanism that trips when the key is turned, 
> preventing the lock from rotating back to the lock position (where the 
> key can be removed).  That'd work if the locks only permit the key to 
> be removed in one position.
>
>         Anyway, that's an idea off the top of my head.  If I win the 
> contest I'll expect a nickel royalty per stack :)

From parkanzky at gmail.com  Mon Nov 22 06:55:21 2010
From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky)
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 2010 08:55:21 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] The biggest challenge yet  (shop related)
In-Reply-To: <OF1B9D760D.FF53BBF7-ON852577E2.008135A6-852577E2.0082073F@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF1B9D760D.FF53BBF7-ON852577E2.008135A6-852577E2.0082073F@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <001101cb8a4c$e8010680$b8031380$@com>

Eric,

I know that this doesn't work for your application, but there are a few
companies out there that make vending machines for bundled campfire wood.  I
hear that there's a machine at a state park near here (Brighton, MI).

Here's an example (You can find videos of other models on YouTube with a
search):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q6-Loea4Inw&feature=related

Sorry that it's not applicable to your situation, but I thought that it was
too cool not to pass along.

-Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of eric at megageek.com
Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2010 6:25 PM
To: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Shop-talk] The biggest challenge yet (shop related)

OK, here is the deal.  Since returning from Afghanistan, I've been out of 
work.  So, I started farming my property for wood.

I've got a great work chain from standing dead tree all the way to stacked 
on pallets to move the inventory or even delivery.

But here is my challenge...

Many people here sell firewood on the road side for about $10-$20 a stack. 
 All of them are on the "honor system" for payment.

Since I live directly across from a state park, I have an ideal set up for 
selling a campfire's worth of wood at a time.  BUT, many of the campers 
don't pay for the wood.

So, I want to build a metal cage (multiple cages actually) for the wood. 
Once a person pays for the wood, the door is unlocked.

There is no electricity by the end of the road, so many options are out. 
Also, if I was selling it for less than a dollar, it would be easy to make 
a mechanism to open with coins.

But I need a system where people can put in dollar bills (or $10s or $20s) 
and it "reads" the bill to open the gate.

Does ANYONE have ANY ideas?  My house is set far back from the road so 
wood piles do get stolen.  I was even thinking about a portable credit 
card machine maybe, but I have no idea what is involved with getting a 
unit that is weather proof and battery based.

Any help will be appreciated, and a prize will be awarded to the person 
that comes up with the best solution that solves the problem.  Thanks a 
bunch!

Moose
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 

From eric at megageek.com  Mon Nov 22 06:53:22 2010
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 2010 08:53:22 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] The biggest challenge yet  (shop related)
In-Reply-To: <001101cb8a4c$e8010680$b8031380$@com>
Message-ID: <OFE77F7261.FA8603BA-ON852577E3.004D2D3D-852577E3.004DA77F@mail.megageek.com>

Thanks for sending that.  I have to say, WOW, I need to be a full time 
inventor.  That machine is weak at best.  It's HUGE for such a small 
dispenser.  Plus, at the end of the video, you can see it's mostly empty 
space inside.  (it seems only the middle holds wood in the 'stack'.)  The 
drawer is a bad idea (it looks about as strong as a file cabinet drawer.)

I would make stretched steal framed cages, so you can see the wood, each 
with a separate door.  Each door opens for it's space only.  This way 
people can see the wood, and you can tell when you need to "refill" it at 
a quick glance.

Thanks for all the suggestions so far.  I think I may have to bite the 
bullet and just have the sign by the road and put the wood near the house.

What would be the best, is to have a camera and monitor so that people can 
SEE they are on camera.  8>)

Moose
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 




"Paul Parkanzky" <parkanzky at gmail.com> 
11/22/2010 08:41

To
<shop-talk at autox.team.net>
cc
<eric at megageek.com>
Subject
RE: [Shop-talk] The biggest challenge yet  (shop related)






Eric,

I know that this doesn't work for your application, but there are a few
companies out there that make vending machines for bundled campfire wood. 
I
hear that there's a machine at a state park near here (Brighton, MI).

Here's an example (You can find videos of other models on YouTube with a
search):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q6-Loea4Inw&feature=related

Sorry that it's not applicable to your situation, but I thought that it 
was
too cool not to pass along.

-Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of eric at megageek.com
Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2010 6:25 PM
To: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Shop-talk] The biggest challenge yet (shop related)

OK, here is the deal.  Since returning from Afghanistan, I've been out of 
work.  So, I started farming my property for wood.

I've got a great work chain from standing dead tree all the way to stacked 

on pallets to move the inventory or even delivery.

But here is my challenge...

Many people here sell firewood on the road side for about $10-$20 a stack. 

 All of them are on the "honor system" for payment.

Since I live directly across from a state park, I have an ideal set up for 

selling a campfire's worth of wood at a time.  BUT, many of the campers 
don't pay for the wood.

So, I want to build a metal cage (multiple cages actually) for the wood. 
Once a person pays for the wood, the door is unlocked.

There is no electricity by the end of the road, so many options are out. 
Also, if I was selling it for less than a dollar, it would be easy to make 

a mechanism to open with coins.

But I need a system where people can put in dollar bills (or $10s or $20s) 

and it "reads" the bill to open the gate.

Does ANYONE have ANY ideas?  My house is set far back from the road so 
wood piles do get stolen.  I was even thinking about a portable credit 
card machine maybe, but I have no idea what is involved with getting a 
unit that is weather proof and battery based.

Any help will be appreciated, and a prize will be awarded to the person 
that comes up with the best solution that solves the problem.  Thanks a 
bunch!

Moose
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Mon Nov 22 07:47:56 2010
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 2010 09:47:56 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] The biggest challenge yet  (shop related)
In-Reply-To: <OF1B9D760D.FF53BBF7-ON852577E2.008135A6-852577E2.0082073F@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF1B9D760D.FF53BBF7-ON852577E2.008135A6-852577E2.0082073F@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <306576353A0740CCB9DF11EF8E5BDBA5@EricJRussellPC>

My ideas:
1) since you are located close to the campground can you offer delivery
service? Drive though the campground a couple of times/day (late afternoon &
early evening would likely be the best) like the ice cream vendor. If it's
not too far of a drive a farm tractor & trailer could be your delivery
method.

B) a self service/honor system set up closer to the house with a combination
of "high tech" security camera (dummy camera with flashing LED light from
Harbor Freight for $5.99 
http://www.harborfreight.com/dummy-security-camera-94030.html) & "low tech"
Redneck security system:

1. Go to a second-hand store and buy a pair of men's used size 14-16 work
boots.

2. Place them on your front porch, along with a copy of Guns & Ammo magazine
and your NRA magazines.

3. Put a few giant-sized dog dishes next to the boots and magazine.

4. Leave a note on your door that reads:

"Hey Bubba, I went for more ammunition. Be back soon.
P.S. Don't let Fido out - he keeps going after the neighbor's Rottweilers."


Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <eric at megageek.com>
To: <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2010 6:25 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] The biggest challenge yet (shop related)


> OK, here is the deal.  Since returning from Afghanistan, I've been out of
> work.  So, I started farming my property for wood.
>
> Any help will be appreciated, and a prize will be awarded to the person
> that comes up with the best solution that solves the problem.  Thanks a
> bunch!
>
> Moose

From eric at megageek.com  Mon Nov 22 07:47:25 2010
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 2010 09:47:25 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] The biggest challenge yet  (shop related)
In-Reply-To: <306576353A0740CCB9DF11EF8E5BDBA5@EricJRussellPC>
Message-ID: <OFC43C61EC.49C6AA14-ON852577E3.00521846-852577E3.00529A8E@mail.megageek.com>

Well we have a winner for funniest solution!  8>)

I do delivery to the campground, the problem is that they also sell 
firewood (at a premium) so they don't like me there.  8>)  Believe it or 
not, I'm try to work with them to get an ad on every campsite for my 
service.  (they only sell wood when the rangers are there, I'd be "after 
hours" wood sale.)

But I thought it would be great to have the "self service" option as well 
so when I'm not around, people could still get wood.

BTW, my dog (and all my other dogs) have always been sweethearts, UNTIL 
they were challenged or threaten.  My last dog (a husky) was 12 years old 
when he almost killed a 5 year old pitt bull who ran at him.

I already have size 13 boots (my size) and the 'guns and ammo' mag 
subscription as well (it's free for one year to vets.)  8>)  But I never 
run out of shotgun shells, or .45 cal ammo for that matter. 8>)

Moose
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 




"Eric J Russell" <ejrussell at mebtel.net> 
11/22/2010 09:35

To
"shop-talk" <shop-talk at autox.team.net>, <eric at megageek.com>
cc

Subject
Re: [Shop-talk] The biggest challenge yet  (shop related)






My ideas:
1) since you are located close to the campground can you offer delivery
service? Drive though the campground a couple of times/day (late afternoon 
&
early evening would likely be the best) like the ice cream vendor. If it's
not too far of a drive a farm tractor & trailer could be your delivery
method.

B) a self service/honor system set up closer to the house with a 
combination
of "high tech" security camera (dummy camera with flashing LED light from
Harbor Freight for $5.99 
http://www.harborfreight.com/dummy-security-camera-94030.html) & "low 
tech"
Redneck security system:

1. Go to a second-hand store and buy a pair of men's used size 14-16 work
boots.

2. Place them on your front porch, along with a copy of Guns & Ammo 
magazine
and your NRA magazines.

3. Put a few giant-sized dog dishes next to the boots and magazine.

4. Leave a note on your door that reads:

"Hey Bubba, I went for more ammunition. Be back soon.
P.S. Don't let Fido out - he keeps going after the neighbor's 
Rottweilers."


Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <eric at megageek.com>
To: <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2010 6:25 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] The biggest challenge yet (shop related)


> OK, here is the deal.  Since returning from Afghanistan, I've been out 
of
> work.  So, I started farming my property for wood.
>
> Any help will be appreciated, and a prize will be awarded to the person
> that comes up with the best solution that solves the problem.  Thanks a
> bunch!
>
> Moose

From Bob at texmog.com  Tue Nov 23 21:40:01 2010
From: Bob at texmog.com (Bob Nogueira)
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 22:40:01 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] The biggest challenge yet  (shop related)
In-Reply-To: <OFC43C61EC.49C6AA14-ON852577E3.00521846-852577E3.00529A8E@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <04B9E14F3DE9433D91537C6804030907@CARROOM>

Lock the fire wood up but in sight. Beside the wood box place a pile of
poles with a flag on the top. A sign simply instructs the buyer who wants
wood to take a flag and post it by there campsite and you will know where to
deliver the wood when you drive through the camp ground.
You get your payment and repeat business if they are staying longer, the
costumer gets free delivery to the site at no charge, and the rangers are
not involved in anyway.
You will also know how much wood to take with you by the number of flags
missing,
Bob Nogueira

> -----Original Message-----
>
>
> Well we have a winner for funniest solution!  8>)
>
> I do delivery to the campground, the problem is that they also sell
> firewood (at a premium) so they don't like me there.  8>)
> Believe it or
> not, I'm try to work with them to get an ad on every campsite for my
> service.  (they only sell wood when the rangers are there,
> I'd be "after
> hours" wood sale.)

From berry at kerch.com  Wed Nov 24 12:52:08 2010
From: berry at kerch.com (Berry Kercheval)
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2010 11:52:08 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Black Friday Welder deal?
Message-ID: <4CED6CE8.6080006@kerch.com>

I see that Tractor Supply has their house-branded "JobSmart. 125 Amp 
Fluxcore/MIG Welder Kit" up for a Black Friday sale at $99.99.  ANyone 
have experience with this brand?  Is this a reasonable set for a 
beginner welder?

From bjshov8 at tx.rr.com  Wed Nov 24 17:42:22 2010
From: bjshov8 at tx.rr.com (BJNoSHOV8)
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2010 18:42:22 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Black Friday tool specials
In-Reply-To: <4CED6CE8.6080006@kerch.com>
References: <4CED6CE8.6080006@kerch.com>
Message-ID: <4CEDB0EE.7020403@tx.rr.com>

We had an advertisement from Lowes in the newspaper this morning.  They 
open at 6AM Friday morning.  The deals that seemed particularly interesting:

2 gal. portable air compressor   $59
Dewalt 18V NiCd compact drill  $99
Maglite 2D or 3D LED flashlights  $14.97
Maglite AA LED flashlight $10.97
Skil 10" compound miter saw  $59
Dewalt 18V NiCd set (drill, impact driver, recip. saw, flashlight  $249

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Wed Nov 24 19:50:04 2010
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2010 21:50:04 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] The biggest challenge yet  (shop related)
Message-ID: <4D8DDFF566D641F8B16A526F193348E2@EricJRussellPC>

Northern Tool is offering a wireless motion alert on sale Friday for $67.49 
Not sure how much wood you'd have to sell to make it worthwhile though.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200415517_200415517

<quote>
Easy to install, no wiring required
Runs up to 12 months on one set of 4 AA batteries (not included)
</quote>

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <eric at megageek.com>
> To: <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2010 6:25 PM
> Subject: [Shop-talk] The biggest challenge yet (shop related)
>
>
>> OK, here is the deal.  Since returning from Afghanistan, I've been out of
>> work.  So, I started farming my property for wood.
>>
>> Any help will be appreciated, and a prize will be awarded to the person
>> that comes up with the best solution that solves the problem.  Thanks a
>> bunch!
>>
>> Moose

From kennedybc at comcast.net  Thu Nov 25 10:51:06 2010
From: kennedybc at comcast.net (Brian Kennedy)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 09:51:06 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Formica counter top
Message-ID: <F00B29F3-545A-4B55-837D-7F9EDE2286F8@comcast.net>

We have a cottage with an old formica counter top we'd like to replace. We'd
like to replace it, but we can't find any brackets. It looks like it's the top
has been glued to the cabinet tops? Any ideas on how to replace? Can we just
cover the old formica? It's still pretty solid after probably over 30 years?
Brian K.

From eric at megageek.com  Thu Nov 25 12:09:49 2010
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 14:09:49 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] I'm thankful for...
Message-ID: <OFF1B9D8BC.63C1A4CD-ON852577E6.006A4619-852577E6.006A77DD@mail.megageek.com>

On this day of thanks (not to be US centric),  I'm thankful for all my 
friends here on this list.  For the knowledge and assistance I have 
received over the years (I think it well over ten years for me), I am 
forever grateful.

Thanks again to all my cyber friends!

Moose
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 

From eric at megageek.com  Thu Nov 25 12:22:27 2010
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 14:22:27 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Re-tread tire shop equipment
Message-ID: <OF39F2E642.BAFDCCEA-ON852577E6.006A82BF-852577E6.006B9FF5@mail.megageek.com>

OK, I'm in WV right now with my SO's family for T'day right now and I have 
a question...

My SO's father used to run a tire capping business here. He has all the 
equipment and supplies and he was wondering if there was any real value to 
it (or is it just worth scrap value.)

In the shop, he has 19 different tire molds with heaters, a press for the 
molds, some other tire machines for the recapping of the tires, a 
vulcanizer, presses to put white walls on tires and other assorted tools 
and such.

He would be interested in selling the entire contents at once.  He isn't 
looking for a fortune (in fact I think any near reasonable offer he would 
take.)

Does anyone know what the stuff is worth about?  (is it worth anything?) 
Is anyone here looking to pick up this type of equipment for next to 
nothing?

I can take pictures of the stuff if people are interested, but I would 
have to clean alot out of the way first, so let me know if you are 
serious.

Also, since I plan to ask him to marry he daughter soon, I want to get on 
his good side.  So I'd love to sell the stuff for him and I will 
personally deliver it anywhere in the continental US for gas money only 
(plus the purchase price.)

Thanks for any information.

Happy T'day!!!

(BTW, if anyone on this list is in the Delbarton, WV area, let me know. 
I'll be here for a few days and I'll be back from time to time.)

Moose
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Thu Nov 25 14:44:05 2010
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 16:44:05 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Formica counter top
In-Reply-To: <F00B29F3-545A-4B55-837D-7F9EDE2286F8@comcast.net>
References: <F00B29F3-545A-4B55-837D-7F9EDE2286F8@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <FEF6E797D26947D1A8EE197BCFD0713B@EricJRussellPC>

If there are no screws going up from underneath then it is likely it was 
built in place. The substrate might be glued, screwed or nailed down from 
above.

If it is in good condition you can clean it well, sand it to remove gloss & 
provide some 'tooth' and glue on a new layer of plastic laminate (aka 
Formica which is a brand name). I would use solvent based contact cement (no 
smoking & lots of ventilation). For new counter tops I use water based 
contact cement but I'm not sure how well they will bond to the old counter 
top.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Brian Kennedy" <kennedybc at comcast.net>
To: "Shop Talk 'shop-talk'" <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 25, 2010 12:51 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] Formica counter top


> We have a cottage with an old formica counter top we'd like to replace. 
> We'd
> like to replace it, but we can't find any brackets. It looks like it's the 
> top
> has been glued to the cabinet tops? Any ideas on how to replace? Can we 
> just
> cover the old formica? It's still pretty solid after probably over 30 
> years?
> Brian K.

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Thu Nov 25 15:42:55 2010
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 17:42:55 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Formica counter top
In-Reply-To: <F00B29F3-545A-4B55-837D-7F9EDE2286F8@comcast.net>
References: <F00B29F3-545A-4B55-837D-7F9EDE2286F8@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=BKcFzdrhHzK9A7akmkmJXsuD17HQ=zmP5bTEg@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, Nov 25, 2010 at 12:51 PM, Brian Kennedy <kennedybc at comcast.net> wrote:
> We have a cottage with an old formica counter top we'd like to replace. We'd
> like to replace it, but we can't find any brackets. It looks like it's the top
> has been glued to the cabinet tops? Any ideas on how to replace? Can we just
> cover the old formica? It's still pretty solid after probably over 30 years?

You can glue new laminate onto the existing stuff.  If you can clean
and properly prep the surface, you can get a good bond.  But It's a
really big pain to do it in place, and if there's any damage to the
plywood or particle board, it's not worth doing.

Usual practice when installing them is caulk or glue, plus screws
driven through the cabinets into the wood substrate of the counters.
I've seen only glue, I 've seen glue and a thousand screws.  Depends
on who installed it.



-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From pat at hornesystemstx.com  Thu Nov 25 19:02:24 2010
From: pat at hornesystemstx.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 20:02:24 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Formica counter top
In-Reply-To: <F00B29F3-545A-4B55-837D-7F9EDE2286F8@comcast.net>
References: <F00B29F3-545A-4B55-837D-7F9EDE2286F8@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4CEF1530.4070109@hornesystemstx.com>

Formica is usually put down with contact cement. Contact cement can be 
released with lacquer thinner. If there is a loose spot around the edge, 
squirt some lacquer thinner under it and let it sit for a few minutes, 
then carefully work a putty knife under and see if it is releasing at 
all. If so, continue applying lacquer thinner and lifting the Formica 
until it all comes loose.

Peace,
Pat

Thusly spake Brian Kennedy, On 11/25/2010 11:51 AM:
> We have a cottage with an old formica counter top we'd like to replace. We'd
> like to replace it, but we can't find any brackets. It looks like it's the top
> has been glued to the cabinet tops? Any ideas on how to replace? Can we just
> cover the old formica? It's still pretty solid after probably over 30 years?
> Brian K.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat at hornesystemstx.com
>
>
>

-- 
Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems
(512) 797-7501 Voice		5026 FM 2001
Pat at HorneSystemsTx.com	Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
www.hornesystemstx.com
-- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --

From tputland at charter.net  Thu Nov 25 20:34:37 2010
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 19:34:37 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Motion sensor lights in the wind
Message-ID: <20101125223437.A7IRV.10930363.root@mp11>

I am on my second set of motion sensor lights on my detached garage. The first set (turned out to be) was an elcheapo $25 buy from costco. It lasted about 3/4 of a year before the sensor stopped working: motion would set the lights off but then they would not shut off. Now I have a set working from ACE. The retail cost was about $55. This set seems to be working fine. 

My problem is when it is windy. Both sets have acted the same in the wind: Pretty much no matter the wind speed, they get (got) set off. I have the current fixture on the least sensitive setting and it still just "flashes" all night with the wind. 

Is there anything I can do? 

I would be more than happy to send pics to any one who might be able to help if they thought seeing the set up would help. 

TIA!

Tim
Dairyland Datsuns

From eltonclark at gmail.com  Thu Nov 25 21:03:01 2010
From: eltonclark at gmail.com (Elton E. (Tony) Clark)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 22:03:01 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Motion sensor lights in the wind
In-Reply-To: <20101125223437.A7IRV.10930363.root@mp11>
References: <20101125223437.A7IRV.10930363.root@mp11>
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=HPiLfGzWR1vXL1BFNJ41bGgmLLfwFth6=k80R@mail.gmail.com>

*I can picture any flexibility of the mounting  causing a motion sensor
activation: it would "think" the whole world was moving. . . can you fix it
solid with guy wires, etc., just as a test to see if that is the culprit?*

On Thu, Nov 25, 2010 at 9:34 PM, Tim <tputland at charter.net> wrote:

> I am on my second set of motion sensor lights on my detached garage. The
> first set (turned out to be) was an elcheapo $25 buy from costco. It lasted
> about 3/4 of a year before the sensor stopped working: motion would set the
> lights off but then they would not shut off. Now I have a set working from
> ACE. The retail cost was about $55. This set seems to be working fine.
>
> My problem is when it is windy. Both sets have acted the same in the wind:
> Pretty much no matter the wind speed, they get (got) set off. I have the
> current fixture on the least sensitive setting and it still just "flashes"
> all night with the wind.
>
> Is there anything I can do?
>
> I would be more than happy to send pics to any one who might be able to
> help if they thought seeing the set up would help.
>
> TIA!
>
> Tim
> Dairyland Datsuns
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eltonclark at gmail.com

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Nov 25 21:13:22 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 20:13:22 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Motion sensor lights in the wind
In-Reply-To: <20101125223437.A7IRV.10930363.root@mp11>
References: <20101125223437.A7IRV.10930363.root@mp11>
Message-ID: <096601cb8d20$43e608d0$0301a8c0@randall>

> My problem is when it is windy. Both sets have acted the same 
> in the wind: Pretty much no matter the wind speed, they get 
> (got) set off.

Look for what is flapping in the wind, and fix it.  The one in my backyard
does the same thing, whenever the wife leaves clothes on the line or even a
rug over the railing.

-- Randall  

From jibjib at att.net  Thu Nov 25 21:22:15 2010
From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 20:22:15 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Motion sensor lights in the wind
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTi=HPiLfGzWR1vXL1BFNJ41bGgmLLfwFth6=k80R@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20101125223437.A7IRV.10930363.root@mp11>
	<AANLkTi=HPiLfGzWR1vXL1BFNJ41bGgmLLfwFth6=k80R@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E1E6FD9ECDFC4914BFFBD257F2785043@EntCent>

<LOL>  I have the same issue.  So all I have to do is take down all the
spruce trees that drop boughs in the wind?  <grrrr>

Jack - who grins and bears it because for me, there is no solution.

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Elton E. (Tony) Clark
Sent: Thursday, November 25, 2010 8:03 PM
To: Tim
Cc: ShopTalk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Motion sensor lights in the wind

*I can picture any flexibility of the mounting  causing a motion sensor
activation: it would "think" the whole world was moving. . . can you fix it
solid with guy wires, etc., just as a test to see if that is the culprit?*

On Thu, Nov 25, 2010 at 9:34 PM, Tim <tputland at charter.net> wrote:

> I am on my second set of motion sensor lights on my detached garage. The
> first set (turned out to be) was an elcheapo $25 buy from costco. It
lasted
> about 3/4 of a year before the sensor stopped working: motion would set
the
> lights off but then they would not shut off. Now I have a set working from
> ACE. The retail cost was about $55. This set seems to be working fine.
>
> My problem is when it is windy. Both sets have acted the same in the wind:
> Pretty much no matter the wind speed, they get (got) set off. I have the
> current fixture on the least sensitive setting and it still just "flashes"
> all night with the wind.
>
> Is there anything I can do?
>
> I would be more than happy to send pics to any one who might be able to
> help if they thought seeing the set up would help.
>
> TIA!
>
> Tim
> Dairyland Datsuns
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eltonclark at gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibjib at att.net

From tputland at charter.net  Thu Nov 25 21:25:33 2010
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 20:25:33 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Motion sensor lights in the wind
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTi=HPiLfGzWR1vXL1BFNJ41bGgmLLfwFth6=k80R@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20101125232533.590JN.10930678.root@mp11>

While what you suggest makes total sense, near as I can tell it, is mounted very solidly to the building. I just grabbed the fixture and it didn't move. I don't see how I could mount it any more solid. 



---- "Elton E. (Tony) Clark" <eltonclark at gmail.com> wrote: 

=============
*I can picture any flexibility of the mounting  causing a motion sensor
activation: it would "think" the whole world was moving. . . can you fix it
solid with guy wires, etc., just as a test to see if that is the culprit?*

On Thu, Nov 25, 2010 at 9:34 PM, Tim <tputland at charter.net> wrote:

> I am on my second set of motion sensor lights on my detached garage. The
> first set (turned out to be) was an elcheapo $25 buy from costco. It lasted
> about 3/4 of a year before the sensor stopped working: motion would set the
> lights off but then they would not shut off. Now I have a set working from
> ACE. The retail cost was about $55. This set seems to be working fine.
>
> My problem is when it is windy. Both sets have acted the same in the wind:
> Pretty much no matter the wind speed, they get (got) set off. I have the
> current fixture on the least sensitive setting and it still just "flashes"
> all night with the wind.
>
> Is there anything I can do?
>
> I would be more than happy to send pics to any one who might be able to
> help if they thought seeing the set up would help.
>
> TIA!
>
> Tim
> Dairyland Datsuns
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eltonclark at gmail.com

From eltonclark at gmail.com  Thu Nov 25 21:37:24 2010
From: eltonclark at gmail.com (Elton E. (Tony) Clark)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 22:37:24 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Motion sensor lights in the wind
In-Reply-To: <20101125232533.590JN.10930678.root@mp11>
References: <AANLkTi=HPiLfGzWR1vXL1BFNJ41bGgmLLfwFth6=k80R@mail.gmail.com>
	<20101125232533.590JN.10930678.root@mp11>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinYCMwEtN2R_GU+Rh0k4QXQJPxs2-pG6oinTbCQ@mail.gmail.com>

*I think I'd still triangulate it with wire or something for a test but
actually, I've gone to "dusk to dawn"  flood lights on my *
*shop because my motion detector lights never lasted very long.  Tony*

On Thu, Nov 25, 2010 at 10:25 PM, Tim <tputland at charter.net> wrote:

> While what you suggest makes total sense, near as I can tell it, is mounted
> very solidly to the building. I just grabbed the fixture and it didn't move.
> I don't see how I could mount it any more solid.

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Nov 26 13:11:22 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 26 Nov 2010 12:11:22 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Motion sensor lights in the wind
In-Reply-To: <E1E6FD9ECDFC4914BFFBD257F2785043@EntCent>
References: <20101125223437.A7IRV.10930363.root@mp11><AANLkTi=HPiLfGzWR1vXL1BFNJ41bGgmLLfwFth6=k80R@mail.gmail.com>
	<E1E6FD9ECDFC4914BFFBD257F2785043@EntCent>
Message-ID: <0a0f01cb8da6$18b90fa0$0301a8c0@randall>

> Jack - who grins and bears it because for me, there is no solution.

There are more sophisticated detectors available, that can distinguish
between a tree branch moving in the wind and a person moving, but they are
significantly more expensive (and usually sold for alarm applications, not
lighting).  

I don't know what the "hot setup" is today, but it used to be a combination
of passive IR (which looks for warm bodies moving in the field of view) and
radar (which can judge the size of the moving object).  Getting them set up
was kind of tricky, but when properly done, the overall system could tell
the difference between a tree branch (or laundry), a small animal (cats,
squirrels, etc), and a person.  

Of course it still wasn't perfect, there is a real gray area between a large
dog and a small child (for example), but much better than the cheap IR
sensors usually found with lights.

There are also the IR beam systems, which detect only something interrupting
the beam.  That won't help if your trees drop branches into the area you
want to protect, but you could maybe route the beam around the trees.

Hmm, with compute power & digital cameras being so cheap these days, I
wonder if anyone offers a true imaging system yet, that actually looks for
the shape of a man walking?  A quick Google didn't turn up any commercial
products, but there does seem to be a fair amount of research going on.  Eg,
http://www.hindawi.com/journals/asp/2010/680623.html

Something like this might work well:
http://intellahome.com/outdoormotiondetector-p-440.html

-- Randall  

From pj_thomas at comcast.net  Fri Nov 26 15:46:05 2010
From: pj_thomas at comcast.net (Peter J. Thomas)
Date: Fri, 26 Nov 2010 17:46:05 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Formica counter top
In-Reply-To: <4CEF1530.4070109@hornesystemstx.com>
References: <F00B29F3-545A-4B55-837D-7F9EDE2286F8@comcast.net>
	<4CEF1530.4070109@hornesystemstx.com>
Message-ID: <4CF038AD.5020400@comcast.net>

On 11/25/2010 9:02 PM, Pat Horne wrote:
> Formica is usually put down with contact cement. Contact cement can be 
> released with lacquer thinner. If there is a loose spot around the 
> edge, squirt some lacquer thinner under it and let it sit for a few 
> minutes, then carefully work a putty knife under and see if it is 
> releasing at all. If so, continue applying lacquer thinner and lifting 
> the Formica until it all comes loose.
>
> Peace,
> Pat

Saw the guys on "Ask This Old House" use a clothes iron to release and 
reapply laminate.  The heat from the iron softens the cement and makes 
it tacky.  Pretty neat.  They fixed a damaged edge piece by scavenging a 
piece hidden by an appliance.  They scored both the damaged piece and 
the replacement path with a square and razor knife.  Heated them with 
the iron, snapping both off.  Then used the iron reapply the patch.  
With patience you could remove all the laminate.

Peter T.
>
> Thusly spake Brian Kennedy, On 11/25/2010 11:51 AM:
>> We have a cottage with an old formica counter top we'd like to 
>> replace. We'd
>> like to replace it, but we can't find any brackets. It looks like 
>> it's the top
>> has been glued to the cabinet tops? Any ideas on how to replace? Can 
>> we just
>> cover the old formica? It's still pretty solid after probably over 30 
>> years?
>> Brian K.
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat at hornesystemstx.com

From Jandkstone99 at msn.com  Fri Nov 26 15:47:06 2010
From: Jandkstone99 at msn.com (Jim and Kathy)
Date: Fri, 26 Nov 2010 16:47:06 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Motion sensor lights in the wind
In-Reply-To: <20101125223437.A7IRV.10930363.root@mp11>
References: <20101125223437.A7IRV.10930363.root@mp11>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP53D4A266EEC9D2F2587944CC210@phx.gbl>

Are there trees nearby? I had this problem with the light I put on my garage,
due to tree limbs that were nearby.  I tried pointing the sensor as far away
from the tress possible, but they still set it off.  I finally decided that
part of the problem was that I had mounted the light too high up (ignoring the
maximum recommended height from the instructions) and relocated the sensor to
a lower spot, which solved the problem.

Sent from my iPad

On Nov 25, 2010, at 9:34 PM, Tim <tputland at charter.net> wrote:

> I am on my second set of motion sensor lights on my detached garage. The
first set (turned out to be) was an elcheapo $25 buy from costco. It lasted
about 3/4 of a year before the sensor stopped working: motion would set the
lights off but then they would not shut off. Now I have a set working from
ACE. The retail cost was about $55. This set seems to be working fine.
>
> My problem is when it is windy. Both sets have acted the same in the wind:
Pretty much no matter the wind speed, they get (got) set off. I have the
current fixture on the least sensitive setting and it still just "flashes" all
night with the wind.
>
> Is there anything I can do?
>
> I would be more than happy to send pics to any one who might be able to help
if they thought seeing the set up would help.
>
> TIA!
>
> Tim
> Dairyland Datsuns
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jandkstone99 at msn.com

From jibjib at att.net  Fri Nov 26 19:18:32 2010
From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks)
Date: Fri, 26 Nov 2010 18:18:32 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Motion sensor lights in the wind
In-Reply-To: <0a0f01cb8da6$18b90fa0$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <20101125223437.A7IRV.10930363.root@mp11><AANLkTi=HPiLfGzWR1vXL1BFNJ41bGgmLLfwFth6=k80R@mail.gmail.com><E1E6FD9ECDFC4914BFFBD257F2785043@EntCent>
	<0a0f01cb8da6$18b90fa0$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <D6F9C66270B1418586DA28BBCF2DCBD3@EntCent>

Randall,

No thanks.  I can put up with the light going on occasionally, instead of an
expensive sensor.

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Friday, November 26, 2010 12:11 PM
To: 'ShopTalk'
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Motion sensor lights in the wind

> Jack - who grins and bears it because for me, there is no solution.

There are more sophisticated detectors available, that can distinguish
between a tree branch moving in the wind and a person moving, but they are
significantly more expensive (and usually sold for alarm applications, not
lighting).  

I don't know what the "hot setup" is today, but it used to be a combination
of passive IR (which looks for warm bodies moving in the field of view) and
radar (which can judge the size of the moving object).  Getting them set up
was kind of tricky, but when properly done, the overall system could tell
the difference between a tree branch (or laundry), a small animal (cats,
squirrels, etc), and a person.  

Of course it still wasn't perfect, there is a real gray area between a large
dog and a small child (for example), but much better than the cheap IR
sensors usually found with lights.

There are also the IR beam systems, which detect only something interrupting
the beam.  That won't help if your trees drop branches into the area you
want to protect, but you could maybe route the beam around the trees.

Hmm, with compute power & digital cameras being so cheap these days, I
wonder if anyone offers a true imaging system yet, that actually looks for
the shape of a man walking?  A quick Google didn't turn up any commercial
products, but there does seem to be a fair amount of research going on.  Eg,
http://www.hindawi.com/journals/asp/2010/680623.html

Something like this might work well:
http://intellahome.com/outdoormotiondetector-p-440.html

-- Randall  
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibjib at att.net

From tputland at charter.net  Sat Nov 27 06:23:02 2010
From: tputland at charter.net (Tim)
Date: Sat, 27 Nov 2010 5:23:02 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Motion sensor lights in the wind
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP53D4A266EEC9D2F2587944CC210@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20101127082302.MJMW9.376813.root@mp07>

Closest trees are beyond the range of the sensor. There is nothing in the range of the sensor that could move in the wind. I guess there must be enough vibration of the cheaply built menard garage kit to set off the sensor. Yet another reason to tear this POS garage down and start from scratch. 


Tim

---- Jim and Kathy <Jandkstone99 at msn.com> wrote: 

=============
Are there trees nearby? I had this problem with the light I put on my garage, due to tree limbs that were nearby.  I tried pointing the sensor as far away from the tress possible, but they still set it off.  I finally decided that part of the problem was that I had mounted the light too high up (ignoring the maximum recommended height from the instructions) and relocated the sensor to a lower spot, which solved the problem.

Sent from my iPad

On Nov 25, 2010, at 9:34 PM, Tim <tputland at charter.net> wrote:

> I am on my second set of motion sensor lights on my detached garage. The first set (turned out to be) was an elcheapo $25 buy from costco. It lasted about 3/4 of a year before the sensor stopped working: motion would set the lights off but then they would not shut off. Now I have a set working from ACE. The retail cost was about $55. This set seems to be working fine. 
> 
> My problem is when it is windy. Both sets have acted the same in the wind: Pretty much no matter the wind speed, they get (got) set off. I have the current fixture on the least sensitive setting and it still just "flashes" all night with the wind. 
> 
> Is there anything I can do? 
> 
> I would be more than happy to send pics to any one who might be able to help if they thought seeing the set up would help. 
> 
> TIA!
> 
> Tim
> Dairyland Datsuns
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jandkstone99 at msn.com

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sat Nov 27 08:06:02 2010
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sat, 27 Nov 2010 10:06:02 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Sump pump alarm
In-Reply-To: <mailman.13.1290798017.30701.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.13.1290798017.30701.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <BLU156-w2727E9018DF7BD1CDAEF02BA220@phx.gbl>

I want some kind of alarm to install in my sump pump crock to sense water when
the pump fails (again). I see them for sale that mount at the crock. What I
want to do though is mount the sensor at the crock and the alarm upstairs at
the other end of the house where it can be heard. I have not seen any like
this. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Marty

From wmc_st at xxiii.com  Sat Nov 27 08:22:25 2010
From: wmc_st at xxiii.com (Wayne)
Date: Sat, 27 Nov 2010 10:22:25 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Sump pump alarm
In-Reply-To: <BLU156-w2727E9018DF7BD1CDAEF02BA220@phx.gbl>
References: <mailman.13.1290798017.30701.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
	<BLU156-w2727E9018DF7BD1CDAEF02BA220@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4CF12231.6040507@xxiii.com>

On 11/27/2010 10:06 AM, marty sukey wrote:
> I want some kind of alarm to install in my sump pump crock to sense water when
> the pump fails (again). I see them for sale that mount at the crock. What I
> want to do though is mount the sensor at the crock and the alarm upstairs at
> the other end of the house where it can be heard. I have not seen any like
> this. Any ideas?

Not sure what "crock" is.  The whole "tub" assy?  Couple things that 
come to mind that might help:  1) HVAC suppliers have float switches for 
drip pans under air handlers and other equipment that might work.  2) IT 
Geek places have water sensors for computer room floors & such.  Google 
should turn up something that would work.

-W

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Sat Nov 27 08:38:43 2010
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Sat, 27 Nov 2010 10:38:43 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Sump pump alarm
In-Reply-To: <BLU156-w2727E9018DF7BD1CDAEF02BA220@phx.gbl>
References: <mailman.13.1290798017.30701.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
	<BLU156-w2727E9018DF7BD1CDAEF02BA220@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinpjrW02ehQT_PA_-pCYgP0jT7q40GrQGyOiQZH@mail.gmail.com>

On Sat, Nov 27, 2010 at 10:06 AM, marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com> wrote:
> I want some kind of alarm to install in my sump pump crock to sense water when
> the pump fails (again). I see them for sale that mount at the crock. What I
> want to do though is mount the sensor at the crock and the alarm upstairs at
> the other end of the house where it can be heard. I have not seen any like
> this. Any ideas?
>

Do you have an burglar alarm?  There are addons that do this for them,
including wireless ones.

We've got a bunch of these:
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=117272-84862-BWD-HWA

They're really loud, so they might be enough.  The sensor is just a
pair of contacts.  Water completes the circuit, and sets off the
beeper.  You can cut the wires and splice in a longer wire.  (lowes
webstie says 100'.  I expect the limit is because it's driving the
beeper with the current sent through the sensor.  If you know any
electronics, that's easy to fix...)


-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Sat Nov 27 08:48:15 2010
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Sat, 27 Nov 2010 10:48:15 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Sump pump alarm
In-Reply-To: <BLU156-w2727E9018DF7BD1CDAEF02BA220@phx.gbl>
References: <mailman.13.1290798017.30701.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
	<BLU156-w2727E9018DF7BD1CDAEF02BA220@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20101127103649.04ddcd00@cox.net>

At 10:06 AM 11/27/2010, marty sukey wrote:

 >I want some kind of alarm to install in my sump pump crock to sense water
 >when the pump fails (again). I see them for sale that mount at the 
crock. What
 >I want to do though is mount the sensor at the crock and the alarm 
upstairs at
 >the other end of the house where it can be heard. I have not seen any like
 >this. Any ideas?

Marty,

Simple.

1.  You'll need some type of float.  You could try using something 
like a tennis
      ball with a rod through the diameter.
2.  Some type of switch at the top of the travel - either a micro 
switch or a piece
      of metal mounted on your float and at the top of the float 
support.  Bent so
      they touch when the float is at the desired level.

Now comes the tricky part, you have 2 options here.

3.  Look into getting a door bell, or at least a door bell 
transformer.  Then you'll
      have a 12V or 24V DC which you can connect to the switch and to a door
      bell chime upstairs.  Only problem is that you'll have to run 
wire from where
      you mount the float to where you mount the door bell.

or

4.  Get a cordless door bell system.  They are less than $25.   (I 
prefer the AC
      powered type [plugs into a wall plug] instead of the bell being 
battery powered.)
      Connect the wires form the float to the 2 connectors on the 
remote button.  (The
      door bell buttons are battery powered.  So you'll have to check 
on the battery
      every once in a while.)

Hope this gives you some ideas.

John



  remote Then I'd look at using


>_______________________________________________
>
>Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jblair1948 at cox.net

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Nov 27 09:10:25 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 27 Nov 2010 08:10:25 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Sump pump alarm
In-Reply-To: <BLU156-w2727E9018DF7BD1CDAEF02BA220@phx.gbl>
References: <mailman.13.1290798017.30701.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
	<BLU156-w2727E9018DF7BD1CDAEF02BA220@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <008401cb8e4d$99ffdf60$0301a8c0@randall>

> What I
> want to do though is mount the sensor at the crock and the 
> alarm upstairs at
> the other end of the house where it can be heard. I have not 
> seen any like
> this. Any ideas?

What about a unit with an output for a remote alarm, plus a separate alarm
(if necessary)?  Eg,
http://tinyurl.com/2delvnr
The separate alarm could be a cheap burglar alarm unit, or as simple as a
wall wart power supply & Sonalert from Radio Shack if you're willing to do
just a bit of wiring.

Or here's a wireless version (likely for a lot more money)
http://tinyurl.com/2bb4ra2

You can even get models that will make a phone call
http://tinyurl.com/246dhpw

-- Randall  

From eric at megageek.com  Sat Nov 27 15:29:03 2010
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Sat, 27 Nov 2010 17:29:03 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] converting a trailer
Message-ID: <OF00372D4A.ABE92FE9-ON852577E8.006B7BA2-852577E8.007B827F@mail.megageek.com>

OK, in my quest to save money, I need to get an enclosed trailer.  BUT, I
have an extra nice landscape trailer.

So I was wondering, does it make sense to just try to make an enclosure for
that trailer?

If so, what would be the best materials to make it out of?  I was thinking
a welded angle iron frame with fiberglass or plywood sides/top.

Any suggestions?  Anyone do this before?

Moose
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
Waldo Emerson

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Nov 27 17:56:42 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 27 Nov 2010 17:56:42 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] 35mm slide scanner?
Message-ID: <4CF1A8CA.7020602@bradakis.com>

Interesting.  One of my projects in the years I worked at the U of U
was to get a box working with our computers, a box that took a
digital image and put it on film, slides or Polaroids.

Now I'm interested in going the other way.  I have a bunch of
slides from my previous life as a an avid skier, climber and
general man about the mountains.  I'm planning to write up
some of my adventures and would like pictures to go along with
them, taken from the collection of old slides.

I know there are slide scanners out there, anyone have any
experience with such beasts?

mjb.

From eric at megageek.com  Sat Nov 27 17:56:57 2010
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Sat, 27 Nov 2010 19:56:57 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Book deal  Was: 35mm slide scanner?
In-Reply-To: <4CF1A8CA.7020602@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <OF9FC1F219.A815BEBA-ON852577E9.00065AF7-852577E9.00069D4A@mail.megageek.com>

MJB writes...

>I'm planning to write up some of my adventures and would like pictures to 
go along with
>them, taken from the collection of old slides.


I don't have a good answer for the slides, but I did write a pretty good 
book about my adventures in two war zones.  Does anyone know how to get in 
touch with an agent to get published?

I don't have enough savings to self publish, and I would want someone who 
knows the industry to help with the process (even if they do take a large 
chuck of the money from sales.)

So, has anyone ever written a book?  Any ideas?


Moose
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 

From jem at milleredp.com  Sat Nov 27 18:12:27 2010
From: jem at milleredp.com (John Miller)
Date: Sat, 27 Nov 2010 17:12:27 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] 35mm slide scanner?
In-Reply-To: <4CF1A8CA.7020602@bradakis.com>
References: <4CF1A8CA.7020602@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <4CF1AC7B.1010806@milleredp.com>

> I know there are slide scanners out there, anyone have any
> experience with such beasts?

Yeah, I bought a Minolta Dimage, it worked okay but doing any 
significant volume of slides took forever.

Decided I was better off sending them off to ScanCafe.

John.

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Sat Nov 27 18:46:48 2010
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Sat, 27 Nov 2010 20:46:48 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] 35mm slide scanner?
In-Reply-To: <4CF1AC7B.1010806@milleredp.com>
References: <4CF1A8CA.7020602@bradakis.com> <4CF1AC7B.1010806@milleredp.com>
Message-ID: <197DD64D914548DEBD7D1AA9A46B6579@EricJRussellPC>

I've got a "ION film 2 SD". It works but as mentioned it is slow - the
device hold 4 slides to be slid through one at a time. It'd be nice if
someone invented a (inexpensive...) device that accepts the old slide
carousels.

Also, inspect your slides closely before scanning. It perfectly replicates 
any dust...

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell
----- Original Message ----- 

> I know there are slide scanners out there, anyone have any
> experience with such beasts?

From doug at dougbraun.com  Sat Nov 27 18:55:07 2010
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Douglas Braun)
Date: Sat, 27 Nov 2010 20:55:07 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] 35mm slide scanner?
In-Reply-To: <4CF1AC7B.1010806@milleredp.com>
References: <4CF1A8CA.7020602@bradakis.com> <4CF1AC7B.1010806@milleredp.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimFEY0sHwikZX+LEjy=GQcp2_QHFqrG1N1VNgX7@mail.gmail.com>

I have a Dimage, which I last used about 5 years ago.  I managed to
get through about 2/3 of my piles of old color negatives.  I recently
was thinking of doing some more, but it turned out that Minolta is no
more, and they never released drivers for Vista or Win7...

For reference, where is a scan of a 35mm slide (Velvia?) from my scanner:

  http://www.dougbraun.com/pix/img0006.tif

(Warning: it is a huge 14 MB TIFF.)


I agree, it is tedious, and it may be worth paying somebody to do it.

BTW, I bet that any accessory that allows a regular flatbed scanner to
scan 35mm will do a terrible job.

Doug

On Sat, Nov 27, 2010 at 8:12 PM, John Miller <jem at milleredp.com> wrote:
>> I know there are slide scanners out there, anyone have any
>> experience with such beasts?
>
> Yeah, I bought a Minolta Dimage, it worked okay but doing any significant
> volume of slides took forever.
>
> Decided I was better off sending them off to ScanCafe.
>
> John.

From koblinger at verizon.net  Sat Nov 27 19:26:27 2010
From: koblinger at verizon.net (Kurt Oblinger)
Date: Sat, 27 Nov 2010 18:26:27 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] 35mm slide scanner?
In-Reply-To: <4CF1A8CA.7020602@bradakis.com>
References: <4CF1A8CA.7020602@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <4CF1BDD3.8050400@verizon.net>

I have a Canon Canoscan 9950F flatbed scanner that has a light source in 
the lid that basically back lights the slides or negs for the scanner to 
scan. It is several years  old but has worked pretty well. I can scan 12 
35mm slides at a go, or four 35mm neg strips. It has software that 
identifies the individual frames and lets you save them as individual 
files. Yes, it's slow, yes it's a lot of work. So far the quality from 
slides has been better than from negs or even prints. I scan in JPEG.

Here's an example;

http://yfrog.com/j8rutherfordchap2k1j

Cheers,
Kurt O.



On 11/27/2010 4:56 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> Interesting.  One of my projects in the years I worked at the U of U
> was to get a box working with our computers, a box that took a
> digital image and put it on film, slides or Polaroids.
>
> Now I'm interested in going the other way.  I have a bunch of
> slides from my previous life as a an avid skier, climber and
> general man about the mountains.  I'm planning to write up
> some of my adventures and would like pictures to go along with
> them, taken from the collection of old slides.
>
> I know there are slide scanners out there, anyone have any
> experience with such beasts?
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________

From shochschild at att.net  Sat Nov 27 19:56:16 2010
From: shochschild at att.net (shochschild at att.net)
Date: Sat, 27 Nov 2010 20:56:16 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Book deal  Was: 35mm slide scanner?
In-Reply-To: <OF9FC1F219.A815BEBA-ON852577E9.00065AF7-852577E9.00069D4A@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF9FC1F219.A815BEBA-ON852577E9.00065AF7-852577E9.00069D4A@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <4CF1C4D0.9000801@att.net>

Amazon will publish any book submitted to them, and make it available on 
Amazon.  They don't charge anything until it sells, and then they have 
two price schedules.  It couldn't be easier.  Just check it out.

On 11/27/2010 6:56 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote:
> MJB writes...
>
>> I'm planning to write up some of my adventures and would like pictures to
> go along with
>> them, taken from the collection of old slides.
>
> I don't have a good answer for the slides, but I did write a pretty good
> book about my adventures in two war zones.  Does anyone know how to get in
> touch with an agent to get published?
>
> I don't have enough savings to self publish, and I would want someone who
> knows the industry to help with the process (even if they do take a large
> chuck of the money from sales.)
>
> So, has anyone ever written a book?  Any ideas?
>
>
> Moose
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shochschild at att.net

From eltonclark at gmail.com  Sat Nov 27 20:05:10 2010
From: eltonclark at gmail.com (Elton E. (Tony) Clark)
Date: Sat, 27 Nov 2010 21:05:10 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] 35mm slide scanner?
In-Reply-To: <4CF1BDD3.8050400@verizon.net>
References: <4CF1A8CA.7020602@bradakis.com>
  <4CF1BDD3.8050400@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=Akp2Qm1_kwBTO5VhMKss4iOChxtEf5kCEUbeU@mail.gmail.com>

*I was given a "Filmscan35 I" by "innovative Technology" and I have never
been able to get a usable scan to my editing program.  This Chinese machine
has the usual inscrutable directions and I find no useful support.  It uses
the 4 slide tray system as mentioned before and it would be slow but I would
be pleased it if only worked at all.  If anyone has this machine and it
works, I'd like to hear from you. *
*Tony*
**

From mdporter at dfn.com  Sat Nov 27 21:01:07 2010
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Sat, 27 Nov 2010 21:01:07 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Book deal  Was: 35mm slide scanner?
In-Reply-To: <4CF1C4D0.9000801@att.net>
References: <OF9FC1F219.A815BEBA-ON852577E9.00065AF7-852577E9.00069D4A@mail.megageek.com>
	<4CF1C4D0.9000801@att.net>
Message-ID: <4CF1D403.7030808@dfn.com>

On 11/27/2010 7:56 PM, shochschild at att.net wrote:
> Amazon will publish any book submitted to them, and make it available 
> on Amazon.  They don't charge anything until it sells, and then they 
> have two price schedules.  It couldn't be easier.  Just check it out.
>


Just an advisory about the inclusion of photos--while digital on-demand 
printing makes it possible to plunk photos into a pdf of a book, don't 
expect the sort of quality that was typical in publishing in earlier 
days.  Really good reproduction requires photo offset printing, with the 
halftones matched to the printing press.  For anyone willing to accept 
some loss of detail and a narrower grayscale in exchange for economical 
production costs, it's not really a problem, but, expectations for the 
final article should be adjusted accordingly.


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From wmc_st at xxiii.com  Sat Nov 27 22:15:16 2010
From: wmc_st at xxiii.com (Wayne)
Date: Sun, 28 Nov 2010 00:15:16 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] 35mm slide scanner?
In-Reply-To: <4CF1A8CA.7020602@bradakis.com>
References: <4CF1A8CA.7020602@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <4CF1E564.6090907@xxiii.com>

On 11/27/2010 7:56 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> Interesting. One of my projects in the years I worked at the U of U
> slides from my previous life as a an avid skier, climber and
> general man about the mountains. I'm planning to write up
> some of my adventures and would like pictures to go along with
> them, taken from the collection of old slides.

A good friend of mine has gone whole hog on that stuff.  Spent BIG bucks 
researching and buying scanners.  Most the stuff you can score through 
retail outlets does not come close to the resolution required to really 
capture the detail in old film.  I will ask him what he has and has 
used.  You're best bet is probably to send it to a professional transfer 
service.

-Wayne

From tvacc at lotusowners.com  Sat Nov 27 22:42:28 2010
From: tvacc at lotusowners.com (Tony Vaccaro)
Date: Sun, 28 Nov 2010 00:42:28 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] 35mm slide scanner?
In-Reply-To: <4CF1BDD3.8050400@verizon.net>
References: <4CF1A8CA.7020602@bradakis.com>
  <4CF1BDD3.8050400@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <60701C06972942D0B65B2D0F8610AE6C@amicroinc.local>

First, my replies sometimes don't make it to the list, so if this does not
please forward it for me.

A while ago, about 8 year or so, I scanned every single slide and negative
that my family took over the past 50 years, maybe longer. Took me the better
part of a year and a few months. There must be 5000 negative and slides.

I used a Nikon  LS-4000 ed. They have not been made for a few years, but if
you can find one used, that is the ticket. My scans are flawless, fantastic
and truly represent what was filmed so long ago.

Tony Vaccaro

LOONY (Lotus Owners of New York)
www.lotusowners.com
716-861-1412

This document and any files or e-mail messages attached to it contain data
or information that is confidential, privileged or otherwise restricted from
disclosure.  If you are not the intended recipient, be aware that any
disclosure, copying, distribution or use of any of the data or information
contained herein or in any of the attachments is strictly prohibited.  If
you have received this document or transmission in error, please immediately
notify the sender and destroy, delete or erase this document and all
attachments.


 

__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 5654 (20101127) __________

The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.

http://www.eset.com

From tvacc at lotusowners.com  Sat Nov 27 22:48:16 2010
From: tvacc at lotusowners.com (Tony Vaccaro)
Date: Sun, 28 Nov 2010 00:48:16 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] 35mm slide scanner?
In-Reply-To: <60701C06972942D0B65B2D0F8610AE6C@amicroinc.local>
References: <4CF1A8CA.7020602@bradakis.com> <4CF1BDD3.8050400@verizon.net>
	<60701C06972942D0B65B2D0F8610AE6C@amicroinc.local>
Message-ID: <5664D649F0DB4E288F83A19EA3F1B0A7@amicroinc.local>

Oh, one more thing. Mine had a auto load negative attachment and a auto load
slide attachment.

I used to put in a bunch of slides or a 4 shot negative. Start it up and let
it go. I kept it on my dining room table for over a year. Everytime I would
walk by, I would label the previous set of scans, and then throw in another
batch.

This is a pro deal. You will not be disappointed in the quality. There are a
few on EBay in the 500 range.

If you want to send me your email off list, I will email you a few of the
scans to see for your self.

Tony Vaccaro

LOONY (Lotus Owners of New York)
www.lotusowners.com
716-861-1412

This document and any files or e-mail messages attached to it contain data
or information that is confidential, privileged or otherwise restricted from
disclosure.  If you are not the intended recipient, be aware that any
disclosure, copying, distribution or use of any of the data or information
contained herein or in any of the attachments is strictly prohibited.  If
you have received this document or transmission in error, please immediately
notify the sender and destroy, delete or erase this document and all
attachments.


-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tony Vaccaro
Sent: Sunday, November 28, 2010 12:42 AM
To: 'Kurt Oblinger'; shop-talk at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 35mm slide scanner?

First, my replies sometimes don't make it to the list, so if this does not
please forward it for me.

A while ago, about 8 year or so, I scanned every single slide and negative
that my family took over the past 50 years, maybe longer. Took me the better
part of a year and a few months. There must be 5000 negative and slides.

I used a Nikon  LS-4000 ed. They have not been made for a few years, but if
you can find one used, that is the ticket. My scans are flawless, fantastic
and truly represent what was filmed so long ago.

Tony Vaccaro

LOONY (Lotus Owners of New York)
www.lotusowners.com
716-861-1412

This document and any files or e-mail messages attached to it contain data
or information that is confidential, privileged or otherwise restricted from
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From bk13 at earthlink.net  Sat Nov 27 23:44:52 2010
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Sat, 27 Nov 2010 22:44:52 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] 35mm slide scanner?
In-Reply-To: <4CF1A8CA.7020602@bradakis.com>
References: <4CF1A8CA.7020602@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <4CF1FA64.9090403@earthlink.net>

Interesting timing as I was just looking at this same thing.  I plan to 
order a Wolverine F2D-300 from Costco.com on 2 Dec when they go on sale 
for $89.99 ($40 off).  The reviews for this new model (sold by Costco 
and the manufacture only so far as I can tell) and the F2D-200 at Amazon 
are very good.  The 200 is 5 mega pixel while the 300 jumps to 7.3.  It 
also adds an image brightness adjustment.

Google
"Wolverine F2D-300 35mm Slides and Negatives to 7.3 Megapixel Digital 
Image Converter" and the top result takes you to a site where you can 
download the manual.  The second result is the manufactures merchant 
site.  The Costco link is fourth.

You can also see the products outside Costco by going to the very bottom 
of the page at
http://secure.serverlab.net/shop/merchant.mvc?Screen=PLST&Store_Code=T00107

Brian


On 11/27/2010 4:56 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> Interesting.  One of my projects in the years I worked at the U of U
> was to get a box working with our computers, a box that took a
> digital image and put it on film, slides or Polaroids.
>
> Now I'm interested in going the other way.  I have a bunch of
> slides from my previous life as a an avid skier, climber and
> general man about the mountains.  I'm planning to write up
> some of my adventures and would like pictures to go along with
> them, taken from the collection of old slides.
>
> I know there are slide scanners out there, anyone have any
> experience with such beasts?
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net

From mg_garage at comcast.net  Sun Nov 28 03:56:17 2010
From: mg_garage at comcast.net (gordies garage)
Date: Sun, 28 Nov 2010 05:56:17 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Book deal  Was: 35mm slide scanner?
In-Reply-To: <4CF1C4D0.9000801@att.net>
References: <OF9FC1F219.A815BEBA-ON852577E9.00065AF7-852577E9.00069D4A@mail.megageek.com>
	<4CF1C4D0.9000801@att.net>
Message-ID: <4B14002E0763463193C5FAEB55F620F5@stargate>

I've read a book that was self published via lulu.com.  I'm pretty sure it's 
all free.


> On 11/27/2010 6:56 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote:
>> MJB writes...
>>
>>> I'm planning to write up some of my adventures and would like pictures 
>>> to
>> go along with
>>> them, taken from the collection of old slides.
>>
>> I don't have a good answer for the slides, but I did write a pretty good
>> book about my adventures in two war zones.  Does anyone know how to get 
>> in
>> touch with an agent to get published?
>>
>> I don't have enough savings to self publish, and I would want someone who
>> knows the industry to help with the process (even if they do take a large
>> chuck of the money from sales.)
>>
>> So, has anyone ever written a book?  Any ideas?
>>
>>
>> Moose
>> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
>> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
>> Waldo Emerson
>> _______________________________________________

From ronnie.day at gmail.com  Sun Nov 28 09:15:42 2010
From: ronnie.day at gmail.com (Ronnie Day)
Date: Sun, 28 Nov 2010 10:15:42 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] 35mm slide scanner?
In-Reply-To: <4CF1FA64.9090403@earthlink.net>
References: <4CF1A8CA.7020602@bradakis.com> <4CF1FA64.9090403@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTik5uBH+YqAoQOLfLeX145iY2re4cWUdXe3wrn3o@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, Nov 28, 2010 at 12:44 AM, Brian Kemp <bk13 at earthlink.net> wrote:
> Interesting timing as I was just looking at this same thing. B I plan to
> order a Wolverine F2D-300 from Costco.com on 2 Dec when they go on sale for
> $89.99 ($40 off). B The reviews for this new model (sold by Costco and the
> manufacture only so far as I can tell) and the F2D-200 at Amazon are very
> good. B The 200 is 5 mega pixel while the 300 jumps to 7.3. B It also adds
an
> image brightness adjustment.
>
> Google
> "Wolverine F2D-300 35mm Slides and Negatives to 7.3 Megapixel Digital Image
> Converter" and the top result takes you to a site where you can download
the
> manual. B The second result is the manufactures merchant site. B The Costco
> link is fourth.
>
> You can also see the products outside Costco by going to the very bottom of
> the page at
> http://secure.serverlab.net/shop/merchant.mvc?Screen=PLST&Store_Code=T00107
>
> Brian
>
I sent this info to Mark, but thought it worth sharing with the group.
Regardless of what you're scanning or what scanner you're using, I
highly recommend VueScan (www.hamrick.com) as the software. A small
stand alone app rather than a plug-in, it's very easy to use and
automatically recognizes just about every scanner ever made. Has
excellent clean up and color correction filters included.

Free to try, standard version is $40 (one year of updates), pro
version (lifetime updates and a couple of extra features) $80.
Versions available for Mac, PC and Linux.

FWIW,
Ron

From bjshov8 at tx.rr.com  Sun Nov 28 13:49:13 2010
From: bjshov8 at tx.rr.com (bjshov8 at tx.rr.com)
Date: Sun, 28 Nov 2010 20:49:13 +0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] Book deal  Was: 35mm slide scanner?
In-Reply-To: <4B14002E0763463193C5FAEB55F620F5@stargate>
Message-ID: <20101128204913.WDQKZ.186338.root@cdptpa-web11-z02>

I'm a little curious about this process- how do you create the material to go into the book?  Can you do it with something simple like Microsoft Word and insert the photos into the document?  Do you need a more elaborate program?


> I've read a book that was self published via lulu.com.  I'm pretty sure it's 
> all free.
> 
> 
> >>> I'm planning to write up some of my adventures and would like pictures 
> >>> to
> >> go along with
> >>> them, taken from the collection of old slides.

From shochschild at att.net  Sun Nov 28 14:30:15 2010
From: shochschild at att.net (shochschild at att.net)
Date: Sun, 28 Nov 2010 15:30:15 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Book deal  Was: 35mm slide scanner?
In-Reply-To: <20101128204913.WDQKZ.186338.root@cdptpa-web11-z02>
References: <20101128204913.WDQKZ.186338.root@cdptpa-web11-z02>
Message-ID: <4CF2C9E7.5000308@att.net>

For Amazon:
"CreateSpace 
<https://www.amazon.com/gp/seller-account/mm-product-page.html?topic=200354160&ld=AZOnDemandMakeM>, 
a member of the Amazon group of companies, provides a fast, easy and 
economical way to self-publish and make your content available to 
millions of potential customers on Amazon.com and other channels. With 
the CreateSpace manufacturing-on-demand model, your products will be 
produced as customers order, so you don't have to make an up-front 
investment in inventory. Media formats supported through CreateSpace 
include books, DVDs, CDs, video downloads and Amazon MP3s.

Learn about CreateSpace 
<https://www.amazon.com/gp/seller-account/mm-product-page.html?topic=200354160&ld=AZOnDemandMakeM>*
*

On 11/28/2010 2:49 PM, bjshov8 at tx.rr.com wrote:
> I'm a little curious about this process- how do you create the material to go into the book?  Can you do it with something simple like Microsoft Word and insert the photos into the document?  Do you need a more elaborate program?
>
>
>> I've read a book that was self published via lulu.com.  I'm pretty sure it's
>> all free.
>>
>>
>>>>> I'm planning to write up some of my adventures and would like pictures
>>>>> to
>>>> go along with
>>>>> them, taken from the collection of old slides.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shochschild at att.net

From rkg at teleport.com  Sun Nov 28 14:49:25 2010
From: rkg at teleport.com (Richard George)
Date: Sun, 28 Nov 2010 13:49:25 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Book deal  Was: 35mm slide scanner?
In-Reply-To: <20101128204913.WDQKZ.186338.root@cdptpa-web11-z02>
References: <20101128204913.WDQKZ.186338.root@cdptpa-web11-z02>
Message-ID: <4CF2CE65.2030905@teleport.com>

Hi,

The two "typical" paths are to either use their software or submit a pdf 
file.  There are usually templates available for word, indesign, etc. to 
set up the
size, etc.  I've done these with both an ancient copy of word and 
indesign - If you're doing anything fancy, I would prefer the latter...).

If you just want to try something/just need a couple, you might also 
look at Costco (they provide mypublisher, but I seem to recall somebody 
telling
me they'll take a pdf too (but ymmv on that) ) - sometimes they run 
specials, and...

Best,

rkg
(Richard George)

On 11/28/2010 12:49 PM, bjshov8 at tx.rr.com wrote:
> I'm a little curious about this process- how do you create the material to go into the book?  Can you do it with something simple like Microsoft Word and insert the photos into the document?  Do you need a more elaborate program?
>
>
>> I've read a book that was self published via lulu.com.  I'm pretty sure it's
>> all free.
>>
>>
>>>>> I'm planning to write up some of my adventures and would like pictures
>>>>> to
>>>> go along with
>>>>> them, taken from the collection of old slides.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rkg at teleport.com

From doug at dougbraun.com  Sun Nov 28 14:53:09 2010
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Douglas Braun)
Date: Sun, 28 Nov 2010 16:53:09 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] 35mm slide scanner?
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTik5uBH+YqAoQOLfLeX145iY2re4cWUdXe3wrn3o@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4CF1A8CA.7020602@bradakis.com> <4CF1FA64.9090403@earthlink.net>
	<AANLkTik5uBH+YqAoQOLfLeX145iY2re4cWUdXe3wrn3o@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikRb5zj7ncQ5PhjQmcfzTwob=i+Wiq6OCOYqkVn@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks a lot for this suggestion!  I tried it, and it allows my
Minolta Dimage film scanner to work just fine on my Windows 7 machine.
 So I immediately bought a copy.  I had heard of this program for
Macs, but I did not realize there was a version for PCs.

Doug

On Sun, Nov 28, 2010 at 11:15 AM, Ronnie Day <ronnie.day at gmail.com> wrote:
> I sent this info to Mark, but thought it worth sharing with the group.
> Regardless of what you're scanning or what scanner you're using, I
> highly recommend VueScan (www.hamrick.com) as the software. A small
> stand alone app rather than a plug-in, it's very easy to use and
> automatically recognizes just about every scanner ever made. Has
> excellent clean up and color correction filters included.

From bjshov8 at tx.rr.com  Sun Nov 28 16:28:19 2010
From: bjshov8 at tx.rr.com (BJNoSHOV8)
Date: Sun, 28 Nov 2010 17:28:19 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Book deal  Was: 35mm slide scanner?
In-Reply-To: <4CF2CE65.2030905@teleport.com>
References: <20101128204913.WDQKZ.186338.root@cdptpa-web11-z02>
	<4CF2CE65.2030905@teleport.com>
Message-ID: <4CF2E593.7070300@tx.rr.com>

If I can use "Word" to create the document then I can create a PDF from 
Word.

> The two "typical" paths are to either use their software or submit a 
> pdf file.  There are usually templates available for word, indesign, 
> etc. to set up the
> size, etc.  I've done these with both an ancient copy of word and 
> indesign - If you're doing anything fancy, I would prefer the latter...).

From jniolon at bham.rr.com  Mon Nov 29 06:27:16 2010
From: jniolon at bham.rr.com (john niolon)
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 2010 07:27:16 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] what do you call this bolt
Message-ID: <6533D7AD7B7B43C2B2422AFBC534E695@OwnerPC>

got a question on another forum that has us stumped... we know what it is and
what it does, but don't know what to call it to source it...

think of a standard bolt but instead of a hex head or socket head, it has a
slot in the bolt and a little 'wing' that is held in the slot by a roll pin
It will flip back and forth to tighten or loosen the bolt, when you use your
thumb as the wrench.  Seen them used for tension bolts on a drill press motor
frame to tighten the belt

wish I could add a picture but I think you guys are smart enough to
understand...  any suggestions ?

thanks
John




During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary
act. George Orwell

From jniolon at bham.rr.com  Mon Nov 29 06:47:15 2010
From: jniolon at bham.rr.com (john niolon)
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 2010 07:47:15 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw: what do you call this bolt
Message-ID: <50FDA59C2DA14ADD8D5176EC572AFB76@OwnerPC>

http://www.clubfte.com/users/jniolon/thumb.jpg

here's a link to the picture of one...

----- Original Message -----
From: john niolon
To: shop-talk
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2010 7:27 AM
Subject: what do you call this bolt


got a question on another forum that has us stumped... we know what it is and
what it does, but don't know what to call it to source it...

think of a standard bolt but instead of a hex head or socket head, it has a
slot in the bolt and a little 'wing' that is held in the slot by a roll pin
It will flip back and forth to tighten or loosen the bolt, when you use your
thumb as the wrench.  Seen them used for tension bolts on a drill press motor
frame to tighten the belt

wish I could add a picture but I think you guys are smart enough to
understand...  any suggestions ?

thanks
John

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Mon Nov 29 06:52:25 2010
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 2010 07:52:25 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw: what do you call this bolt
In-Reply-To: <50FDA59C2DA14ADD8D5176EC572AFB76@OwnerPC>
References: <50FDA59C2DA14ADD8D5176EC572AFB76@OwnerPC>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W125168F84112D54ADB205E1240@phx.gbl>

I get a 403 error. %^(

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!




> From: jniolon at bham.rr.com
> To: shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Date: Mon, 29 Nov 2010 07:47:15 -0600
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw: what do you call this bolt
>
> http://www.clubfte.com/users/jniolon/thumb.jpg
>
> here's a link to the picture of one...
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: john niolon
> To: shop-talk
> Sent: Monday, November 29, 2010 7:27 AM
> Subject: what do you call this bolt
>
>
> got a question on another forum that has us stumped... we know what it is
and
> what it does, but don't know what to call it to source it...
>
> think of a standard bolt but instead of a hex head or socket head, it has a
> slot in the bolt and a little 'wing' that is held in the slot by a roll pin
> It will flip back and forth to tighten or loosen the bolt, when you use
your
> thumb as the wrench. Seen them used for tension bolts on a drill press
motor
> frame to tighten the belt
>
> wish I could add a picture but I think you guys are smart enough to
> understand... any suggestions ?
>
> thanks
> John
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com

From jniolon at bham.rr.com  Mon Nov 29 06:58:29 2010
From: jniolon at bham.rr.com (john niolon)
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 2010 07:58:29 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] what do you call this bolt
In-Reply-To: <4CF3B0BE.7050906@xxiii.com>
References: <6533D7AD7B7B43C2B2422AFBC534E695@OwnerPC>
	<4CF3B0BE.7050906@xxiii.com>
Message-ID: <E828DAB8A03B4EC3A6FA48EB3F26470C@OwnerPC>

found an obscure site listing something similar as a "heel pin"    anyone 
every heard of those.... can't find them on google yet

j
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wayne" <wmc_st at xxiii.com>
To: "john niolon" <jniolon at bham.rr.com>
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2010 7:55 AM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] what do you call this bolt


> On 11/29/2010 8:27 AM, john niolon wrote:
>> got a question on another forum that has us stumped... we know what it is 
>> and
>> what it does, but don't know what to call it to source it...
>
> I wanna say "threaded clevis" but that didn't quite get it on google. 
> sounds similar to what I've heard called a clevis.  Maybe that would get 
> you a little closer (before you sit down to flip through all 2000 pages of 
> McMaster Carr)
>
> -wayne
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 10.0.1153 / Virus Database: 424/3275 - Release Date: 11/23/10

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Mon Nov 29 07:02:10 2010
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 2010 09:02:10 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] what do you call this bolt
In-Reply-To: <6533D7AD7B7B43C2B2422AFBC534E695@OwnerPC>
References: <6533D7AD7B7B43C2B2422AFBC534E695@OwnerPC>
Message-ID: <6F3BE876769B405CB0FA911EB5CC2E15@EricJRussellPC>

McMaster-Carr item #94040A110 ?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#toggle-bolts/=9xgher

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "john niolon" <jniolon at bham.rr.com>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2010 8:27 AM
Subject: [Shop-talk] what do you call this bolt


> got a question on another forum that has us stumped... we know what it is 
> and
> what it does, but don't know what to call it to source it...
>
> think of a standard bolt but instead of a hex head or socket head, it has 
> a
> slot in the bolt and a little 'wing' that is held in the slot by a roll 
> pin
> It will flip back and forth to tighten or loosen the bolt, when you use 
> your
> thumb as the wrench.  Seen them used for tension bolts on a drill press 
> motor
> frame to tighten the belt
>
> wish I could add a picture but I think you guys are smart enough to
> understand...  any suggestions ?
>
> thanks
> John

From jniolon at bham.rr.com  Mon Nov 29 07:12:52 2010
From: jniolon at bham.rr.com (john niolon)
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 2010 08:12:52 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] what do you call this bolt
In-Reply-To: <6F3BE876769B405CB0FA911EB5CC2E15@EricJRussellPC>
References: <6533D7AD7B7B43C2B2422AFBC534E695@OwnerPC>
	<6F3BE876769B405CB0FA911EB5CC2E15@EricJRussellPC>
Message-ID: <7620E10CD43E4D4AB9E81D869AA075F3@OwnerPC>

that !  is extremely close... the one we had only had one tab...    thanks 
Eric


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell at mebtel.net>
To: "john niolon" <jniolon at bham.rr.com>; "shop-talk" 
<shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2010 8:02 AM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] what do you call this bolt


> McMaster-Carr item #94040A110 ?
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#toggle-bolts/=9xgher

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Mon Nov 29 10:54:46 2010
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 2010 12:54:46 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] what do you call this bolt
In-Reply-To: <6533D7AD7B7B43C2B2422AFBC534E695@OwnerPC>
References: <6533D7AD7B7B43C2B2422AFBC534E695@OwnerPC>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikAwkRCTNYBJ-S12wNjboW+SMe7JA2ktz3VXfws@mail.gmail.com>

On Mon, Nov 29, 2010 at 8:27 AM, john niolon <jniolon at bham.rr.com> wrote:
> got a question on another forum that has us stumped... we know what it is
and
> what it does, but don't know what to call it to source it...
>
> think of a standard bolt but instead of a hex head or socket head, it has a
> slot in the bolt and a little 'wing' that is held in the slot by a roll pin
> It will flip back and forth to tighten or loosen the bolt, when you use
your
> thumb as the wrench. B Seen them used for tension bolts on a drill press
motor
> frame to tighten the belt
>
> wish I could add a picture but I think you guys are smart enough to
> understand... B any suggestions ?
>

this works like the handle on the lead screw of some sorts of vices, right?

--
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From berry at kerch.com  Mon Nov 29 11:16:34 2010
From: berry at kerch.com (Berry Kercheval)
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 2010 10:16:34 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Book deal Was: 35mm slide scanner?
In-Reply-To: <OF9FC1F219.A815BEBA-ON852577E9.00065AF7-852577E9.00069D4A@mail.megageek.com>
References: <4CF1A8CA.7020602@bradakis.com>
	<OF9FC1F219.A815BEBA-ON852577E9.00065AF7-852577E9.00069D4A@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinXvxZYECAR_=Xo3z5uA6=4bzEoiS-a3dySUZhH@mail.gmail.com>

The answer depends on what you want, and what you mean by "published".  If
you just want a handful of books to go to Mom, Grandma and the kids, then
Lulu or Amazon or a number of other places are fine.

If you're going to market the books on your own website, Lulu is still fine.
 They're easy to use, reliable, produce decent quality books and the prices
are reasonable.

If you want a more commercial path, where you actually make a significant
amount of money, then it's more complicated.  First, I'd recommend going to
http://pred-ed.com/ and reading everything so you're aware of all the scams
targeting newbie writers out there.  Especially
http://pred-ed.com/pubagent.htm, since there are predatory "agents" that
will take money from you and deliver nothing.

The general rule is that as the writer, if YOU are spending money on
anything, it's a scam.  OK, you can pay for the paper you use to print out
the manuscript and the postage to send it off, but anything else is
unprofessional. especially "reading fees", "submission packages" and so on.
 A legit agent makes money by getting a share of the sales of your book, and
is worth every penny.

That said, the thing to do is to look up agents who handle material similar
to your own, and send them a carefully crafted query of no more than 2-3
pages saying, essentially:  "I see you handle stuff like this; I have a
completed book like that; do you want to see it?"  If you have a good
proposal, they'll ask to see the first couple of chapters; if they like that
they'll for the whole book; if they like that they'll sign you and try to
sell it.

There are various databases and listings of agents for various fields you
can consult for your list of possible agents.  Cross check with
http://pred-ed.com/pubagent.htm and have fun.

Absolute Write is a good resource too, with lots of friendly people.

(I've published two technical non-fiction books and a handful of short
stories, and am a SFWA member)

On Sat, Nov 27, 2010 at 4:56 PM, <eric at megageek.com> wrote:
>
> I don't have a good answer for the slides, but I did write a pretty good
> book about my adventures in two war zones.  Does anyone know how to get in
> touch with an agent to get published?

From marka at maracing.com  Tue Nov 30 16:25:36 2010
From: marka at maracing.com (Mark Andy)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2010 18:25:36 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Motion sensor lights in the wind
In-Reply-To: <20101127082302.MJMW9.376813.root@mp07>
References: <20101127082302.MJMW9.376813.root@mp07>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.1011301824100.16593@thunder.banklogic.net>

Howdy,

I have a different motion sensor light problem... I can't make any of them 
keep working for more than about six months.

At this point I think I'd be willing to spend like $300 for a motion 
sensor light that actually worked and had a guarantee to that effect for 
five years.  If it stopped working in five years I'd want a million 
dollars.

Anything like that exist?

Mark

From marka at maracing.com  Tue Nov 30 16:29:26 2010
From: marka at maracing.com (Mark Andy)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2010 18:29:26 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Shop-talk] 35mm slide scanner?
In-Reply-To: <4CF1A8CA.7020602@bradakis.com>
References: <4CF1A8CA.7020602@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.1011301827090.16593@thunder.banklogic.net>

Howdy,

On Sat, 27 Nov 2010, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> Interesting.  One of my projects in the years I worked at the U of U
> was to get a box working with our computers, a box that took a
> digital image and put it on film, slides or Polaroids.
>
> Now I'm interested in going the other way.  I have a bunch of
> slides from my previous life as a an avid skier, climber and
> general man about the mountains.  I'm planning to write up
> some of my adventures and would like pictures to go along with
> them, taken from the collection of old slides.
>
> I know there are slide scanners out there, anyone have any
> experience with such beasts?

When I looked into this for us, unless you were going to have a continuing 
need the answer was to just pay someone to scan the slides for you. 
ScanCafe.com was who we used, with very good results.

The reason is that good scanning equipment was costly and good scanning 
equipment that was also fast enough to deal with a number of slides was 
extra special costly.  For us, it was a one time deal to get old photos 
digital and there'd be no need once we'd done it once, so ScanCafe.com was 
cheaper, easier, and took a lot less time.

Mark

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Nov 30 21:07:14 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2010 04:07:14 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Shop-talk] 35mm slide scanner?
In-Reply-To: <206694936.1800361.1291176237274.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <222376815.1800526.1291176434831.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

> For us, it was a one time deal to get old
> photos 
> digital and there'd be no need once we'd done it once, so ScanCafe.com
> was 
> cheaper, easier, and took a lot less time.
> 
> Mark

I'd like to have some professionals do this, but I'd rather drive to a local outfit than ship them off to Bangalore India.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From markmiller at threeboysfarm.com  Tue Nov 30 23:52:52 2010
From: markmiller at threeboysfarm.com (Mark Miller)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2010 22:52:52 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] slide scanner
Message-ID: <4AF6AA84D8EF4FA3B37A2F8DE0F53713@delld520>

<<<Subject: [Shop-talk] 35mm slide scanner?
To: Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <4CF1A8CA.7020602 at bradakis.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Interesting.  One of my projects in the years I worked at the U of U was to
get a box working with our computers, a box that took a digital image and
put it on film, slides or Polaroids.

Now I'm interested in going the other way.  I have a bunch of slides from my
previous life as a an avid skier, climber and general man about the
mountains.  I'm planning to write up some of my adventures and would like
pictures to go along with them, taken from the collection of old slides.

I know there are slide scanners out there, anyone have any experience with
such beasts?

mjb.
>>>

Hey, I designed one of those way back when.  At General Parametrics.  It was
a really fun project.  Electronics, color wheels, 12kV, densitometers to set
up the film tables, mechanical gizmos, optics, programming.

I totally recommend using a pro scanning shop.  Scancafe.com is good.
http://www.scancafe.com 
They also have a section on their site with tips on doing it yourself, but
they are slanting it towards saying it pays to have them to it (duh).
http://www.scancafe.com/image-preservation/do-it-yourself



Mark M.