From Tim.Mullen at ngc.com Thu May 6 11:25:02 2010 From: Tim.Mullen at ngc.com (Mullen, Tim (IS)) Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 12:25:02 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] car a/c work References: <499263.67978.qm@web54501.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <03cd01cae170$46192440$d24b6cc0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C797638814@XMBIL103.northgrum.com> Randall wrote: > > And just BTW, it's a violation of federal law to service A/C > without a license. Sorry not correct... It requires a federal license (fairly easy to get) to purchase R12, and the law requires that all R12 be evacuated from an AC system and recycled instead of venting it to the air. However, anyone can buy R134a and although it is strongly recommended that it be recycled when you empty a system it is not absolutely required and there is no penalty for not recycling R134a. TIM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu May 6 12:26:10 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 11:26:10 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] car a/c work In-Reply-To: <9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C797638814@XMBIL103.northgrum.com> References: <499263.67978.qm@web54501.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <03cd01cae170$46192440$d24b6cc0$@rr.com> <9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C797638814@XMBIL103.northgrum.com> Message-ID: <000601caed49$9ad7f440$d087dcc0$@rr.com> > Randall wrote: > > > > And just BTW, it's a violation of federal law to service A/C > > without a license. Tim Mullen replied: > > Sorry not correct... Well, I'm just quoting what the EPA says. I'm not a lawyer nor do I play one on television. (But I was an A/C service technician in a previous life.) From http://www.epa.gov/ozone/title6/609/justfax.html "Technicians who repair or service HFC-134a MVACs must be trained and certified by an EPA-approved organization. I suppose you could argue that "trained and certified" is different than a license, but if it quacks like a duck... > However, anyone can buy R134a and although it is strongly recommended that it be recycled when you empty a system > it is not absolutely required and there is no penalty for not recycling R134a. >From the same page: "Section 608 of the Clean Air Act prohibits releasing HFC-134a into the atmosphere. The prohibition on venting HFC-134a has been in effect since November 1995." From http://www.epa.gov/ozone/title6/608/608fact.html "Under the Act, EPA is authorized to assess fines of up to $37,500 per day for any violation of these regulations." So technically, it's true, there is no penalty for not recycling 134a. But you do have to dispose of it properly, it can't just be vented. -- Randall From opposumking at verizon.net Thu May 6 12:46:39 2010 From: opposumking at verizon.net (opposumking at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 06 May 2010 13:46:39 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] car a/c work Message-ID: <19856012.766549.1273171599237.JavaMail.root@vms073.mailsrvcs.net> >On May 6, 2010, Mullen, Tim (IS) wrote: > Randall wrote: >> >> And just BTW, it's a violation of federal law to service A/C >> without a license. > >Sorry not correct... > >It requires a federal license (fairly easy to get) to purchase R12, and the >law requires that all R12 be evacuated from an AC system and recycled instead >of venting it to the air. > >However, anyone can buy R134a and although it is strongly recommended that it >be recycled when you empty a system it is not absolutely required and there is >no penalty for not recycling R134a. And even that is mildly overstated. EPA issued a white paper many years ago clarifying that the purchaser of R12 did not need a license, as long as they were buying it for a shop where a mechanic had an R12 license.B EPA said they always mean to allow a parts runner or receptionist to be able to pick up the R-12 for the certified mechanic. http://www.epa.gov/ozone/title6/608/sales/sales.html There is no recycling requirement in the CAA.B There is a capture requirement, and even allows for several types of releases. http://www.epa.gov/ozone/title6/608/608fact.html From dmscheidt at gmail.com Thu May 6 12:54:03 2010 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 14:54:03 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] car a/c work In-Reply-To: <9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C797638814@XMBIL103.northgrum.com> References: <499263.67978.qm@web54501.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <03cd01cae170$46192440$d24b6cc0$@rr.com> <9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C797638814@XMBIL103.northgrum.com> Message-ID: On Thu, May 6, 2010 at 1:25 PM, Mullen, Tim (IS) wrote: > Randall wrote: > > > > And just BTW, it's a violation of federal law to service A/C > > without a license. > > Sorry not correct... > > It requires a federal license (fairly easy to get) to purchase R12, and the > law requires that all R12 be evacuated from an AC system and recycled > instead > of venting it to the air. > > However, anyone can buy R134a and although it is strongly recommended that > it > be recycled when you empty a system it is not absolutely required and there > is > no penalty for not recycling R134a. > > Federal law requires a license to work on mobile AC systems if you do it for "consideration". (Which gets interpreted very broadly. do it for the parts used, and you're in violation.) Many states have stricter requirements, and prohibit working on your own systems. (They may not regulate the sale of r134a, which implies they're not terribly serious about that, though.) It is a violation of section 608 of the Clean Air Act to knowingly vent R134a into the atmosphere. (you face a fine of up to $37,500 for doing so. No, I have no clue where they got that number from.) -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com From tputland at charter.net Fri May 7 09:12:13 2010 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 8:12:13 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] auxillary power jack Message-ID: <20100507111213.ZHOO5.5859901.root@mp12> Has anyone added an auxilary power jack to a classic car? Or any other car for that matter? Please contact me off list. thanks Tim From strovato at optonline.net Fri May 7 10:09:16 2010 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Fri, 07 May 2010 12:09:16 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] auxillary power jack In-Reply-To: <20100507111213.ZHOO5.5859901.root@mp12> References: <20100507111213.ZHOO5.5859901.root@mp12> Message-ID: <0L22001IF4Y6LJS0@mta6.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Tim, Can you explain a little further? Are you talking about 12V auxiliary power, like a cigarette lighter? Or are you talking 120V AC power? What kind of car? Does it have a 12V negative ground electrical system? And last, why take it off list? Maybe we'll all learn something. -Steve Trovato strovato at optonline.net At 11:12 AM 5/7/2010, you wrote: >Has anyone added an auxilary power jack to a classic car? Or any >other car for that matter? Please contact me off list. > >thanks >Tim From doug at dougbraun.com Fri May 7 11:29:59 2010 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Douglas Braun) Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 13:29:59 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] auxillary power jack In-Reply-To: <0L22001IF4Y6LJS0@mta6.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> References: <20100507111213.ZHOO5.5859901.root@mp12> <0L22001IF4Y6LJS0@mta6.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Message-ID: One suggestion: A some things that plug into a cigarette lighter jack, such as 12-120 volt converters (or cigarette lighters) use a fairly large amount of current. Make sure that the jack's wiring is capable of handling the load, and is properly fused. Doug From ejrussell at mebtel.net Fri May 7 12:39:19 2010 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell) Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 14:39:19 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] auxillary power jack In-Reply-To: <20100507111213.ZHOO5.5859901.root@mp12> References: <20100507111213.ZHOO5.5859901.root@mp12> Message-ID: <814DF7F6A68C4AB79B640C4869389EB7@EricJRussellPC> Do you mean a 12V outlet? I put one in my MGA by mounting it up behind the dash (plenty of room in an MGA). Easy to reach up under the dash but otherwise hidden from view. I put one in our MGB & Alfa Romeo (even though they already have cigarette lighter sockets) by using a length of wire to attach a 12V outlet to the battery (with an in-line fuse on 12V+). Easy to tuck the outlet out of sight if so desired. This is sort of what I used - the ones I bought have a cover over the outlet & didn't have the alligator clips. Hooking it direct to battery makes it easy to check battery voltage, connect a trickle charger, etc. http://www.12voltaccessoryoutlet.com/catalog/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=874&idcategory=55 Eric Russell Mebane, NC http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim" > Has anyone added an auxilary power jack to a classic car? Or any other car > for that matter? Please contact me off list. > > thanks > Tim From tvacc at lotusowners.com Fri May 7 14:01:21 2010 From: tvacc at lotusowners.com (Tony Vaccaro) Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 16:01:21 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] auxillary power jack In-Reply-To: References: <20100507111213.ZHOO5.5859901.root@mp12> Message-ID: <58B8480535A84679B29F92AE76FFEA9C@amicroinc.local> Hey, I thought he was talking about a set of pneumatic jacks under a car. Plug in the air line and the car goes up. What do I know? Tony Vaccaro LOONY (Lotus Owners of New York) www.lotusowners.com 716-861-1412 This document and any files or e-mail messages attached to it contain data or information that is confidential, privileged or otherwise restricted from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of any of the data or information contained herein or in any of the attachments is strictly prohibited. If you have received this document or transmission in error, please immediately notify the sender and destroy, delete or erase this document and all attachments. -----Original Message----- From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steven Trovato Sent: Friday, May 07, 2010 1:07 PM To: Tim Cc: Shop Talk Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] auxillary power jack Tim, Can you explain a little further? Are you talking about 12V auxiliary power, like a cigarette lighter? Or are you talking 120V AC power? What kind of car? Does it have a 12V negative ground electrical system? And last, why take it off list? Maybe we'll all learn something. -Steve Trovato strovato at optonline.net At 11:12 AM 5/7/2010, you wrote: >Has anyone added an auxilary power jack to a classic car? Or any >other car for that matter? Please contact me off list. > >thanks >Tim _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tvacc at lotusowners.com __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5095 (20100507) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5096 (20100507) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com From bk13 at earthlink.net Fri May 7 22:47:19 2010 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Fri, 07 May 2010 21:47:19 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] auxillary power jack In-Reply-To: <20100507111213.ZHOO5.5859901.root@mp12> References: <20100507111213.ZHOO5.5859901.root@mp12> Message-ID: <4BE4ECD7.6070308@earthlink.net> Tim, Two easy options: http://www.amazon.com/DASH-MOUNT-VOLT-POWER-SOCKET/dp/B000IG205Y/ or http://www.amazon.com/RoadPro-RPPS-16ES-Extension-Cigarette-Lighter/dp/B001JT7B3A/ Comes with bracket that can be attached up under dash. or something like http://www.amazon.com/Pico-0921PT-Volt-Power-Socket/dp/B001QRW5SG/ that you just let hang from under the dash area. This one has an inline fuse. I don't have any experience with the above sockets. They are just representative samples. I recommend you have the power fused at some point. If you have bullet connectors like my TR6 and don't plan to pull much current, you can probably find an easy place to plug in without cutting any existing wires. You can also replace bullet coupler (LUCWB300) with a quad coupler (LUCWB301). Pictures are at http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6greenbook/38.php?s_wt=1152&s_ht=864 Once consideration is having the socket switched on with the ignition or unswitched and always on. It seems cars now have them switched so you don't leave something to drain the battery. Brian Tim wrote: > Has anyone added an auxilary power jack to a classic car? Or any other car for that matter? Please contact me off list. > > thanks > Tim > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net From tputland at charter.net Sat May 8 06:38:10 2010 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 5:38:10 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] aux power jack Message-ID: <20100508083810.1B5NB.5897033.root@mp07> Thanks to those who offered advise, etc. Now that I read some of the notes that were sent to me, it seems like this is a fairly straight forward process. Being electrically challenged, I was (am) a little nervous when it comes to doing electrical projects. It is one thing to do rust repair or rust proofing (one project I am in the middle of on a rolling resto); most if not all of which can be undone fairly easily. But it I make a mistake doing wiring, well, a new wiring harness can be pricey! Thanks again! Still clueless but always learning Tim Dairyland Datsuns From ejrussell at mebtel.net Sat May 8 07:11:36 2010 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell) Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 09:11:36 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] aux power jack In-Reply-To: <20100508083810.1B5NB.5897033.root@mp07> References: <20100508083810.1B5NB.5897033.root@mp07> Message-ID: Just keep the smoke inside the wires! Eric Russell Mebane, NC http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim" > But it I make a mistake doing wiring, well, a new wiring harness can be > pricey! From dirtbeard at pacbell.net Sun May 9 15:23:59 2010 From: dirtbeard at pacbell.net (old dirtbeard) Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 14:23:59 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] bits for a Stanley push drill Message-ID: Hey guys, I know it is seems anachronistic/luditish, but I still use a Stanley push drill (03-049) and broke my last 3/32" bit. It appears that it now is an "antique" and googling for replacement bits has not productive other than on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/11-YANKEE-PUSH-DRILL-BITS-/360260745962?cmd=ViewItem&pt=L H_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53e136baea Do any of you know where I could buy bits for it? I love it for pilot holes, working on ladders, hanging stuff, etc. I could go the eBay route, but was hoping to find something local. I was up on the roof today mounting a sending unit for a weather station for my sprinkler controls and broke my last bit. best, doug ________________ '72 BSA B50SS '74 Triumph TR6 '01 HD XLH 883 '03 GMC Cargo Van '07 Aprilia SXV 550 From dmscheidt at gmail.com Sun May 9 16:33:34 2010 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 18:33:34 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] bits for a Stanley push drill In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Sun, May 9, 2010 at 5:23 PM, old dirtbeard wrote: > Hey guys, > > I know it is seems anachronistic/luditish, but I still use a Stanley push > drill (03-049) and broke my last 3/32" bit. It appears that it now is an > "antique" and googling for replacement bits has not productive other than > on > eBay: > > > http://cgi.ebay.com/11-YANKEE-PUSH-DRILL-BITS-/360260745962?cmd=ViewItem&pt=L > H_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53e136baea > > Do any of you know where I could buy bits for it? You can't. get one of these: http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?c=&p=57809&cat=1,43411,43417&ap=1 which let you use 1/4 hex attachments. Then you get something like: http://www.amazon.com/Makita-784000-UltraLok-16-Inch-Assortment/dp/B000244YGA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1273444235&sr=1-5 which are 1/4 hex drill bits, or this: http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/14keylesschuckwith14hexshank.aspx which is a 1/4 chuck with a 1/4 hex on other end, which lets you use normal drill bits. -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun May 9 17:49:24 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 16:49:24 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] bits for a Stanley push drill In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <059001caefd2$41655110$0301a8c0@randall> > Do any of you know where I could buy bits for it? I love it > for pilot holes, > working on ladders, hanging stuff, etc. I could go the eBay > route, but was > hoping to find something local. You might try Lovelady Hardware in Torrance, they have a lot of strange old stuff collecting dust in the back room (if you can find someone that knows where it is). Or if you are in a hurry, they don't look that hard to fabricate from some drill rod. Randall From 57healey at gmail.com Sun May 9 19:24:36 2010 From: 57healey at gmail.com (Patton Dickson) Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 20:24:36 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] bits for a Stanley push drill In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Since Stanley has a lifetime warrenty it would be interesting to hear what their customer service would say Sent from my iPod On May 9, 2010, at 4:23 PM, "old dirtbeard" wrote: > Hey guys, > > I know it is seems anachronistic/luditish, but I still use a Stanley > push > drill (03-049) and broke my last 3/32" bit. It appears that it now > is an > "antique" and googling for replacement bits has not productive other > than on > eBay: > > http://cgi.ebay.com/11-YANKEE-PUSH-DRILL-BITS-/360260745962?cmd=ViewItem&pt=L > H_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53e136baea > > Do any of you know where I could buy bits for it? I love it for > pilot holes, > working on ladders, hanging stuff, etc. I could go the eBay route, > but was > hoping to find something local. > > I was up on the roof today mounting a sending unit for a weather > station for > my sprinkler controls and broke my last bit. > > best, > > doug > ________________ > '72 BSA B50SS > '74 Triumph TR6 > '01 HD XLH 883 > '03 GMC Cargo Van > '07 Aprilia SXV 550 > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/57healey at gmail.com From jniolon at bham.rr.com Sun May 9 19:35:51 2010 From: jniolon at bham.rr.com (John Niolon) Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 20:35:51 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] bits for a Stanley push drill References: <059001caefd2$41655110$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <580F156501E74E84B2975F534169136B@john5043a2d406> Randall what's local ??? local might be hard... but here's some other choices You are in luck. Jon Zimmers Antique Tools in Portland, OR, has a chuck adapter that will allow other size drill points to be used, and they may also have drill points for sale separately. Visitwww.jonzimmersantiquetools.com or contact Jon at 503-232-1565. He also has other brands of push drills to consider, including the very popular Yankee No. 41Y and an all-aluminum push drill that houses ten drill points. Ebay has lots of push drill and drill points for sale, including the 41Y and new (remaining) stock of the Stanley Handyman Yankee Push Drill. In Ebay, type "Yankee Push Drills" into the search box. I also found the No. 45 and others at www.antiqnet.com. On this site, select "tools" from the drop-down box and type "Yankee" in the search box. and http://www.garrettwade.com/product.asp?pn=69P01.01&sid=W6600058&eid=Yankee%20Push%20Drills%20&%20Bits&gclid=CODK8Oe2xqECFQ4VswodrS9iXQ&bhcd2=1273455464 or http://www.bamanufacturing.com/page_29b.htm john From cavanadd at verizon.net Sun May 9 20:11:48 2010 From: cavanadd at verizon.net (David C.) Date: Sun, 09 May 2010 19:11:48 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] bits for a Stanley push drill In-Reply-To: <059001caefd2$41655110$0301a8c0@randall> References: <059001caefd2$41655110$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <4BE76B64.4030607@verizon.net> Looks like Garrett Wade sells them: > http://www.garrettwade.com/product.asp?pn=69P01.01&sid=W6600058&eid=Yankee%20Push%20Drills%20&%20Bits&gclid=CO77t9e9xqECFR16gwodCET2_A&bhcd2=1273457308 or you can make an adapter; I've done it and it works reasonably well. > http://homepage.mac.com/galoot_9/bit_adaptor/gltindex.html I have a half dozen or so of the Yankee screwdrivers (I see them all the time at antique and junk stores for a couple of bucks) and if I was going to start using them again I would probably get the Lee Valley adapter setup. Randall wrote: >> Do any of you know where I could buy bits for it? I love it >> for pilot holes, >> working on ladders, hanging stuff, etc. I could go the eBay >> route, but was >> hoping to find something local. > > You might try Lovelady Hardware in Torrance, they have a lot of strange old > stuff collecting dust in the back room (if you can find someone that knows > where it is). > > Or if you are in a hurry, they don't look that hard to fabricate from some > drill rod. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd at verizon.net From shop at justbrits.com Sun May 9 20:22:18 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sun, 09 May 2010 21:22:18 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] bits for a Stanley push drill In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BE76DDA.6000202@justbrits.com> << Do any of you know where I could buy bits for it? >> I have gotten bits that small and smaller at McMaster-Carr, Doug. Gotta "hunt" for them tho -:) !! Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com [with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the ..For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.] From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun May 9 21:22:23 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 20:22:23 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] bits for a Stanley push drill In-Reply-To: <580F156501E74E84B2975F534169136B@john5043a2d406> References: <059001caefd2$41655110$0301a8c0@randall> <580F156501E74E84B2975F534169136B@john5043a2d406> Message-ID: <05b901caeff0$02590b60$0301a8c0@randall> > Randall > > what's local ??? Well, I wasn't the one asking; but I happen to know that Doug (the original poster) lives about 25 miles SSW of Los Angeles, CA. Randall From bk13 at earthlink.net Sun May 9 21:55:27 2010 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Sun, 09 May 2010 20:55:27 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] bits for a Stanley push drill In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BE783AF.3080401@earthlink.net> Doug - I got a replacement set from Sears, but I guess it was a while ago. Their version of the Yankee push drill is Craftsman 94221, but I don't see it online at Sears dot com. A search revealed http://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/vintage-craftsman-yankee-spiral-push-drill-7 which considers it "vintage". I didn't think I was old enough to have purchased vintage tools new in the store. A good Sears employee may be able to find a part number if it hasn't been too long that it is purged from the computers. The other option might be an old Craftsman tool catalog if anyone has one around. Related - http://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/craftsman-dd-9-4221-push-drill-w-all-8-bits. I too find the drill handy for occasional use, but expect the cordless drill killed the market. Brian old dirtbeard wrote: > Hey guys, > > I know it is seems anachronistic/luditish, but I still use a Stanley push > drill (03-049) and broke my last 3/32" bit. It appears that it now is an > "antique" and googling for replacement bits has not productive other than on > eBay: > > http://cgi.ebay.com/11-YANKEE-PUSH-DRILL-BITS-/360260745962?cmd=ViewItem&pt=L > H_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53e136baea > > Do any of you know where I could buy bits for it? I love it for pilot holes, > working on ladders, hanging stuff, etc. I could go the eBay route, but was > hoping to find something local. > > I was up on the roof today mounting a sending unit for a weather station for > my sprinkler controls and broke my last bit. > > best, > > doug > ________________ > '72 BSA B50SS > '74 Triumph TR6 > '01 HD XLH 883 > '03 GMC Cargo Van > '07 Aprilia SXV 550 > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net From jferguson at bellsouth.net Mon May 10 07:03:36 2010 From: jferguson at bellsouth.net (Jim Ferguson) Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 09:03:36 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] auxillary power jack Message-ID: <4BE80428.2050303@bellsouth.net> I mounted one of these behind the seat on my MGA. Directly wired and fused to the battery. http://www.iboats.com/12V-Accessory-Socket-Only-Seasense/dm/cart_id.698192736--session_id.361311321--view_id.215404 From jniolon at bham.rr.com Mon May 10 07:46:12 2010 From: jniolon at bham.rr.com (john niolon) Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 08:46:12 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] auxillary power jack In-Reply-To: <4BE80428.2050303@bellsouth.net> References: <4BE80428.2050303@bellsouth.net> Message-ID: <33590470D7F7497C872AAFD6CCCF39FC@OwnerPC> I've mounted several in vehicles over the years that came without them... Volkswagens and old fords... I always used the lighted ones...easier at night and wired them to the battery directly with #10 wire and a 30 or so amp fuse inline.....DON'T DO IT WITHOUT THE FUSE !! Once had an inline amp gauge line short out and it filled up the cab with smoke in about 5.3 seconds. Melted #10 wire and the amp gauge into a nice plastic/copper mess. Lucky it happened when I was in the truck... had I not been there it might have burned the truck to the ground... another note... rubber grommets do NOT last forever.... but that's another story.. later John From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Sat May 15 08:26:03 2010 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Sat, 15 May 2010 09:26:03 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] locked out of my garage Message-ID: I seem to have lost all the keys to my detached garage. If I cut the knob off the access door, will I be able to unlock and open the door or should I just call a locksmith to unlock it. It is a cheap MasterLock externial door knob. Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! From jblair1948 at cox.net Sat May 15 09:03:13 2010 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Sat, 15 May 2010 11:03:13 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] locked out of my garage Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100515110308.0461c1f8@cox.net> At 10:26 AM 5/15/2010, you wrote: >I seem to have lost all the keys to my detached garage. > >If I cut the knob off the access door, will I be able to unlock and open the >door or should I just call a locksmith to unlock it. The lock smith is probably the easier but the more expensive of the 2 options. :) Not having cut a door know off before, I don't know if it will work. If you cut the know off, I doubt that you'll be able to get in, because there isn't anything locking the two knob shafts together, therefore, it's the round plates that cover the lock hole that's holding the knobs in place. You'll be able to maybe pull part of the shaft out. Do you have the small 8" x 4" glass pains in the side door or is it a solid door? If you have the glass pains in it, you could either just break a pain, or remove the glazing, and points, and remove the pain. Reach inside unlock the door, and then replace the pain of glass when done. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat May 15 10:07:50 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 15 May 2010 09:07:50 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] locked out of my garage In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0e4801caf448$c77a8ac0$0301a8c0@randall> > If I cut the knob off the access door, will I be able to > unlock and open the > door or should I just call a locksmith to unlock it. With the cheap locks I've seen, that should be enough. But even if not, the lock body will just be soft "pot metal", so it's easy to drill once the (relatively) hard skin of the knob is out of the way. Of course, it depends somewhat on what your time is worth to you. But even a medium-grade lock is only $30 or so, while a locksmith on a Saturday is bound to be several times that much. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat May 15 10:10:35 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 15 May 2010 09:10:35 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] locked out of my garage In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20100515110308.0461c1f8@cox.net> References: <6.2.5.6.1.20100515110308.0461c1f8@cox.net> Message-ID: <0e4901caf449$276ec040$0301a8c0@randall> > and then replace the pain of glass when done. I was gonna suggest maybe you meant "pane" of glass ... but on second thought, I believe you've got it right! Randall From dmscheidt at gmail.com Sat May 15 10:14:11 2010 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Sat, 15 May 2010 12:14:11 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] locked out of my garage In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Sat, May 15, 2010 at 10:26 AM, Rich White wrote: > I seem to have lost all the keys to my detached garage. > > > > If I cut the knob off the access door, will I be able to unlock and open > the > door or should I just call a locksmith to unlock it. > > It is a cheap MasterLock externial door knob. > \ Time to brush up your lockpicking skills.... -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com From pat at hornesystemstx.com Sat May 15 10:30:42 2010 From: pat at hornesystemstx.com (Pat Horne) Date: Sat, 15 May 2010 11:30:42 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] locked out of my garage In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BEECC32.9040105@hornesystemstx.com> Oops, I forgot to send this to the list. --------------------------- Cutting the knob off would get you access to the strike inside the door. If you have access to a slide hammer, screw it into the lock cylinder and pull it. You may need to run a drill bit into the key slot to make it large enough for the screw. Slide hammers can be picked up at some auto parts houses for free on loan. Either way you will need to replace the lock set. Peace, Pat Thusly spake David Scheidt, On 5/15/2010 9:26 AM: > I seem to have lost all the keys to my detached garage. > > > > If I cut the knob off the access door, will I be able to unlock and > open the > door or should I just call a locksmith to unlock it. > > It is a cheap MasterLock externial door knob. > > Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA > '63 TR3B TCF587L > That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! > _______________________________________________ -- Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems (512) 797-7501 Voice 5026 FM 2001 Pat at HorneSystemsTx.com Lockhart, TX 78644-4443 www.hornesystemstx.com -- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT -- From dmscheidt at gmail.com Sat May 15 10:34:18 2010 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Sat, 15 May 2010 12:34:18 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] locked out of my garage In-Reply-To: <0e4801caf448$c77a8ac0$0301a8c0@randall> References: <0e4801caf448$c77a8ac0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: On Sat, May 15, 2010 at 12:07 PM, Randall wrote: > > If I cut the knob off the access door, will I be able to > > unlock and open the > > door or should I just call a locksmith to unlock it. > > With the cheap locks I've seen, that should be enough. But even if not, > the > lock body will just be soft "pot metal", so it's easy to drill once the > (relatively) hard skin of the knob is out of the way. > Assuming all the tools aren't in the garage.... (When I was in college, the trunk on my car got stuck closed. It was a defective latch design, that allowed something to get stuck in it and block the latch from moving. Solution was "remove back seat. remove stuff from trunk, free latch. Fail to figure out how to properly put back seat in." which was made very complicated that every tool I owned was in the trunk.) -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com From ejrussell at mebtel.net Sat May 15 11:35:39 2010 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell) Date: Sat, 15 May 2010 13:35:39 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] locked out of my garage In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1EA4162AB4664A39990AE4F643EC3C94@EricJRussellPC> Wood framed garage? Once upon a time my wife got locked out of our house when the door blew shut behind her unexpectedly. The local fire department (way back when we lived in a very small town) came to her rescue. They used a spreader tool to slightly spread the door frame. It caused no permanent damage. The door did not have a deadbolt so it only needed to spread ~1/2"-3/4" to free the latch. A length of 2X4 and a wedge (or pair of wedges) should accomplish the deed. Eric Russell Mebane, NC http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rich White" >I seem to have lost all the keys to my detached garage. From wmc_st at xxiii.com Sat May 15 12:18:59 2010 From: wmc_st at xxiii.com (Wayne) Date: Sat, 15 May 2010 14:18:59 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] locked out of my garage In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BEEE593.4000704@xxiii.com> On 5/15/2010 10:26 AM, Rich White wrote: > If I cut the knob off the access door, will I be able to unlock and open the > door or should I just call a locksmith to unlock it. In my experience, YES, probably. I had an attached garage. Got locked out of the house. Door from garage into kitchen was a cheap non-deadbolt lockset like you describe. With garage tools ( a Dremel or some sort of cut-off wheel) I lopped off the knob and easily bypassed the lock. -W From cavanadd at verizon.net Sat May 15 12:19:16 2010 From: cavanadd at verizon.net (David C.) Date: Sat, 15 May 2010 11:19:16 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] locked out of my garage In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BEEE5A4.2020204@verizon.net> Do you have (or know) any teenagers? It's my experience that they can get into anything....or will know someone who can. Rich White wrote: > I seem to have lost all the keys to my detached garage. > > > > If I cut the knob off the access door, will I be able to unlock and open the > door or should I just call a locksmith to unlock it. > > It is a cheap MasterLock externial door knob. > > Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA > '63 TR3B TCF587L > That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd at verizon.net From shiples at comcast.net Sat May 15 13:29:14 2010 From: shiples at comcast.net (Steve Shipley) Date: Sat, 15 May 2010 12:29:14 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] locked out of my garage In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <5.2.1.1.0.20100515122747.03862700@mail.comcast.net> At 09:26 AM 5/15/2010 -0500, Rich White wrote: >I seem to have lost all the keys to my detached garage. The last time I visited a locksmith, he referred to his cordless drill as his master key. Drill Baby, Drill! From berry at kerch.com Sat May 15 14:31:49 2010 From: berry at kerch.com (Berry Kercheval) Date: Sat, 15 May 2010 13:31:49 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] locked out of my garage In-Reply-To: References: <0e4801caf448$c77a8ac0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <4BEF04B5.9010402@kerch.com> When I had a VW Jetta, the same thing happened to me. It turns out that you can fold the rear seat armrest down, go through the fabric behind it and undo the screws holding the latch in place. The VW shop had a #2 Phillips driver taped to a long stick for just this task :-) (and duct tape on the backside of the fabric slit was a pretty decent repair, considering it was my commute beater) On 5/15/10 9:34 AM, David Scheidt wrote: > (When I was in college, the trunk on my car got stuck closed. It was a > defective latch design, that allowed something to get stuck in it and block > the latch from moving. Solution was "remove back seat. remove stuff from > trunk, free latch. Fail to figure out how to properly put back seat in." > which was made very complicated that every tool I owned was in the trunk.) From jniolon at bham.rr.com Sat May 15 14:35:06 2010 From: jniolon at bham.rr.com (John Niolon) Date: Sat, 15 May 2010 15:35:06 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] locked out of my garage References: <5.2.1.1.0.20100515122747.03862700@mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <0E40C80E344B4C86968F9F352CF235AD@john5043a2d406> master key at work is a 12" pipe wrench.... cinch it down and give it a turn and the guts of the lock will strip.... have to replace the lock... but works every time johnm ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Shipley" To: "Rich White" ; "shop-talk List" Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2010 2:29 PM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] locked out of my garage > At 09:26 AM 5/15/2010 -0500, Rich White wrote: >>I seem to have lost all the keys to my detached garage. > > > The last time I visited a locksmith, he referred to > his cordless drill as his master key. > > Drill Baby, Drill! > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jniolon at bham.rr.com From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Sat May 15 16:06:51 2010 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Sat, 15 May 2010 17:06:51 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] locked out of my garage (update) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Update... We found a set of keys, so I did not have to try taking the knob off. I do feel that it would have worked. At least no-one suggested a bulldozer or a match! %^) I was raised in a small town where we did not lock the doors, so lock picking was not a skill used by my group. At my age I'm lucky to see the lock let alone pick it. %^( Thanks! I know you guys would have some hints. Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! > From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com > To: shop-talk at autox.team.net > Date: Sat, 15 May 2010 09:26:03 -0500 > Subject: [Shop-talk] locked out of my garage > > I seem to have lost all the keys to my detached garage. > > > > If I cut the knob off the access door, will I be able to unlock and open the > door or should I just call a locksmith to unlock it. > > It is a cheap MasterLock externial door knob. > > Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA > '63 TR3B TCF587L > That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com From nogera2 at att.net Sat May 15 21:25:01 2010 From: nogera2 at att.net (nogera2 at att.net) Date: Sat, 15 May 2010 22:25:01 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Fan Shroud Message-ID: Guys, I've got a Morgan Plus 4. Several years ago I solved a low speed over heating problem by making and installing a fan shroud ( the fan sits a good 4 inches behind the radiator). Well I'm ready to do a version 2.0 of my shroud. The 1.0 version makes changing a fan belt a major undertaking. On the version 1.0 I carried the shroud to the rear so that it ended on a plan with the trailing edge of the fan blades. What I would like to do is shorten up the shroud so it ends at the leading edge of the fan in order to make fan belt changes easier. The question: I know on a blowing fan the air flow is greater if the shroud covers the fan blade tips. Is that also true for a sucking fan? It seems to me that air spilling off the fan tips is not going to be a problem since the objective is to pull outside air thru the radiator and since the shorter shroud will block air from looping back through the fan the performance should stay the same. What say the best bunch of guys on the internet? Bob Nogueira ( I'm no engineer but I play one in my garage) From gerrybraz at cablespeed.com Sun May 16 06:11:06 2010 From: gerrybraz at cablespeed.com (gerry brazil) Date: Sun, 16 May 2010 08:11:06 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Fan Shroud In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <8A79CEBF5F39426A8D1CDCF86C0CACCE@Digilink1> Bob I know a shrouded fan is a lot more efficient and I am afraid that if you stop the shroud just short of the fan blades you will create a lot of turbulence and defeat your purpose.....Why not make the shroud with a slip sleeve that you can adjust to enclose the blades when operating and then slide forward when you need to change or adjust the belt. You probably only need a few inches of travel....Make a design with drawings and visit a good HVAC place with a talented "Tin Man" and have him put something together for you. From ejrussell at mebtel.net Sun May 16 11:02:39 2010 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell) Date: Sun, 16 May 2010 13:02:39 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Fan Shroud In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: How about ditching the engine run fan and using an electric? Sounds like you have room for a puller fan. If a pusher fan is more efficient then explore that possibility. If you prefer to stick with the engine fan can you make the shroud two piece? Make the upper half easily removable. Eric Russell Mebane, NC http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Shop Talk" Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2010 11:25 PM Subject: [Shop-talk] Fan Shroud > Guys, I've got a Morgan Plus 4. Several years ago I solved a low speed > over > heating problem by making and installing a fan shroud ( the fan sits a > good > 4 inches behind the radiator). > Well I'm ready to do a version 2.0 of my shroud. The 1.0 version makes > changing a fan belt a major undertaking. On the version 1.0 I carried the > shroud to the rear so that it ended on a plan with the trailing edge of > the > fan blades. What I would like to do is shorten up the shroud so it ends at > the leading edge of the fan in order to make fan belt changes easier. > The question: I know on a blowing fan the air flow is greater if the > shroud > covers the fan blade tips. Is that also true for a sucking fan? It seems > to > me that air spilling off the fan tips is not going to be a problem since > the > objective is to pull outside air thru the radiator and since the shorter > shroud will block air from looping back through the fan the performance > should stay the same. > > What say the best bunch of guys on the internet? > > Bob Nogueira ( I'm no engineer but I play one in my garage) From ejrussell at mebtel.net Tue May 18 18:32:17 2010 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell) Date: Tue, 18 May 2010 20:32:17 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] engine removal Message-ID: Need it done quick? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4yn3YpIOew4&feature=related Eric Russell Mebane, NC http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell From rustymetal at sbcglobal.net Wed May 19 03:56:59 2010 From: rustymetal at sbcglobal.net (Frank Vantacich) Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 02:56:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] fuel caddy Message-ID: <98234.28190.qm@web81306.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Well I am tired of dealing with 5 gallon gas cans and California's special spring loaded anti spill gas caps. Yup I am in need of a fuel caddy, 25-30 gallons with a pump. Another requirement would be, and this is where my dilema is I can't seem to find this option, a built in hook on top of the unit so I can connect a strap to my front end loader to transfer the unit in and out of my truck bed. Any one out their have any suggestions as to where I can find a model with these options? Thanks for the help! Frank V. rustymetal at sbcglobal.net From gerrybraz at cablespeed.com Wed May 19 04:57:47 2010 From: gerrybraz at cablespeed.com (gerry brazil) Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 06:57:47 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] engine removal In-Reply-To: Message-ID: My dentist uses something like that.....you can hear the screams for miles....;-) From dmscheidt at gmail.com Wed May 19 05:43:06 2010 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 07:43:06 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] fuel caddy In-Reply-To: <98234.28190.qm@web81306.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <98234.28190.qm@web81306.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 5:56 AM, Frank Vantacich wrote: > Well I am tired of dealing with 5 gallon gas cans and California's special > spring loaded anti spill gas caps. Yup I am in need of a fuel caddy, 25-30 > gallons with a pump. Another requirement would be, and this is where my > dilema is I can't seem to find this option, a built in hook on top of the > unit so I can connect a strap to my front end loader to transfer the unit in > and out of my truck bed. Any one out their have any suggestions as to where > I can find a model with these options? > > How are you going to get out of your truck at the gas station to fill it? Or are you just planning on blowing yourself up? -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com From battmain at yahoo.com Wed May 19 06:08:39 2010 From: battmain at yahoo.com (Battmain) Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 05:08:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] engine removal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <428770.37835.qm@web57005.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Low mileage engine and no damage. Brian battmain at yahoo.com ----- Original Message ---- From: Eric J Russell To: shop-talk Sent: Tue, May 18, 2010 8:32:17 PM Subject: [Shop-talk] engine removal Need it done quick? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4yn3YpIOew4&feature=related (snip) From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Wed May 19 07:05:46 2010 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 08:05:46 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] engine removal In-Reply-To: <428770.37835.qm@web57005.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: , <428770.37835.qm@web57005.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: professionally removed from car! %^) Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! > Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 05:08:39 -0700 > From: battmain at yahoo.com > To: shop-talk at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] engine removal > > Low mileage engine and no damage. > > Brian > battmain at yahoo.com > > > ----- Original Message ---- > From: Eric J Russell > To: shop-talk > Sent: Tue, May 18, 2010 8:32:17 PM > Subject: [Shop-talk] engine removal > > Need it done quick? > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4yn3YpIOew4&feature=related > (snip) > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com From marka at maracing.com Wed May 19 07:50:04 2010 From: marka at maracing.com (Mark Andy) Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 09:50:04 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] fuel caddy In-Reply-To: References: <98234.28190.qm@web81306.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Howdy, On Wed, 19 May 2010, David Scheidt wrote: >> Well I am tired of dealing with 5 gallon gas cans and California's special >> spring loaded anti spill gas caps. Yup I am in need of a fuel caddy, 25-30 >> gallons with a pump. Another requirement would be, and this is where my >> dilema is I can't seem to find this option, a built in hook on top of the >> unit so I can connect a strap to my front end loader to transfer the unit in >> and out of my truck bed. Any one out their have any suggestions as to where >> I can find a model with these options? >> > How are you going to get out of your truck at the gas station to fill > it? Or are you just planning on blowing yourself up? Why can't he just fill it up in the bed of the truck? Mark From jniolon at bham.rr.com Wed May 19 08:35:07 2010 From: jniolon at bham.rr.com (john niolon) Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 09:35:07 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] fuel caddy In-Reply-To: References: <98234.28190.qm@web81306.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3DCDFB769CC547F98C22483C674038B4@OwnerPC> Northern tool sells a number of them... some on wheels that would be pretty easy to roll up and down a set of ramps to or from the truck bed. but they ain't cheap john From pethier at comcast.net Wed May 19 09:42:47 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 15:42:47 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] fuel caddy In-Reply-To: <3DCDFB769CC547F98C22483C674038B4@OwnerPC> Message-ID: <900166688.28021281274283767644.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> When our family used to have a lake cabin, we would tie up our boats at the city dock in Outing Minnesota. The gas station was across the street. I would take the station's caddy and fill it at the pump, then roll it across the street and out on the dock. Hand pump on the caddy would start the siphon. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 1979 Caterham Super Seven 2004 Suburban 8.1 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com ----- "john niolon" wrote: > From: "john niolon" > To: "shop-talk" > Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2010 9:35:07 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] fuel caddy > > Northern tool sells a number of them... some on wheels that would be > pretty > easy to roll up and down a set of ramps to or from the truck bed. > but they > ain't cheap > > john > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pethier at comcast.net From rustymetal at sbcglobal.net Wed May 19 10:03:00 2010 From: rustymetal at sbcglobal.net (Frank Vantacich) Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 09:03:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] fuel caddy In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <678777.64940.qm@web81301.mail.mud.yahoo.com> That was my plan, just leave it in the truck bed to fill, then remove it when I got home. As far as blowing up, if I bought a metal caddy didn't roll it around in side the truck bed that would eliminate the chance of static buildup/discharge. I know the plastic gas cans will create a static buildup if you slide it around the inside of the bed. I am curious as to whether the caddy comes with any written warning on how to transport and fill it. Frank V. rustymetal at sbcglobal.net --- On Wed, 5/19/10, Mark Andy wrote: > From: Mark Andy > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] fuel caddy > To: "Shop Talk" > Date: Wednesday, May 19, 2010, 6:50 AM > Howdy, > > On Wed, 19 May 2010, David Scheidt wrote: > >> Well I am tired of dealing with 5 gallon gas cans > and California's special > >> spring loaded anti spill gas caps. Yup I am in > need of a fuel caddy, 25-30 > >> gallons with a pump. Another requirement would be, > and this is where my > >> dilema is I can't seem to find this option, a > built in hook on top of the > >> unit so I can connect a strap to my front end > loader to transfer the unit in > >> and out of my truck bed. Any one out their > have any suggestions as to where > >> I can find a model with these options? > >> > > How are you going to get out of your truck at the gas > station to fill it? Or are you just planning on blowing > yourself up? > > Why can't he just fill it up in the bed of the truck? > > Mark > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rustymetal at sbcglobal.net From dmscheidt at gmail.com Wed May 19 10:46:25 2010 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 12:46:25 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] fuel caddy In-Reply-To: References: <98234.28190.qm@web81306.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 9:50 AM, Mark Andy wrote: > Howdy, > > > On Wed, 19 May 2010, David Scheidt wrote: > >> Well I am tired of dealing with 5 gallon gas cans and California's special >>> spring loaded anti spill gas caps. Yup I am in need of a fuel caddy, >>> 25-30 >>> gallons with a pump. Another requirement would be, and this is where my >>> dilema is I can't seem to find this option, a built in hook on top of the >>> unit so I can connect a strap to my front end loader to transfer the unit >>> in >>> and out of my truck bed. Any one out their have any suggestions as to >>> where >>> I can find a model with these options? >>> >>> How are you going to get out of your truck at the gas station to fill >> it? Or are you just planning on blowing yourself up? >> > > Why can't he just fill it up in the bed of the truck? It's not safe? There's no guarantee that a decent ground exists between container and the ground, other than the gasoline nozzle. Filling a container with gasoline generates a substantial static charge. If that charge is dissipated by a spark from the container to the nozzle you get a nice fire. That's not an idle concern; it happens fairly regularly. Happened to station down the road from me five or six years ago. -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com From ericm at lne.com Wed May 19 11:17:08 2010 From: ericm at lne.com (Eric Murray) Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 10:17:08 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] fuel caddy In-Reply-To: <678777.64940.qm@web81301.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <678777.64940.qm@web81301.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20100519171708.GA15319@slack> On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 09:03:00AM -0700, Frank Vantacich wrote: > I know the plastic gas cans will create a static buildup > if you slide it around the inside of the bed. That's interesting. I've used plastic 5 gal gas 'cans' for fueling racing and off road motorcyles for years. I haven't blown myself up yet, at least not that I have noticed. I've never seen even the most cautious rider/racer take any static precautions or erupt in a ball of flame. Perhaps removing the tank and/or holding it up to the motorcycle dissapates the static? Maybe it is only a problem with stationary installations where you're fueling from the tank in the bed using a hose? (in that case I could see grounding the tank to the truck). Is the static more or less of a problem if you have a plastic or spray bed liner? I do know that pumping lots of gas through a hose creates static but I thought that the hose has a wire and grounds to the vehicle through the nozzle. Eric > I am curious as to whether the caddy comes with any written warning on how to > transport and fill it. Me too, especially if it's useful and not CYA legalese telling you not to play in or around. Eric From parkanzky at gmail.com Wed May 19 12:02:29 2010 From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky) Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 14:02:29 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] fuel caddy In-Reply-To: References: <98234.28190.qm@web81306.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001b01caf77d$7380e440$5a82acc0$@com> > Why can't he just fill it up in the bed of the truck? It's not safe? There's no guarantee that a decent ground exists between container and the ground, other than the gasoline nozzle. Filling a container with gasoline generates a substantial static charge. If that charge is dissipated by a spark from the container to the nozzle you get a nice fire. That's not an idle concern; it happens fairly regularly. Happened to station down the road from me five or six years ago. -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com So how do you fill those fuel caddies that sit across the bed of a pickup truck against the cab? They're really common where I grew up and I am certain that people didn't remove them from the truck to fill them. -Paul From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed May 19 13:21:27 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 12:21:27 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] fuel caddy In-Reply-To: References: <98234.28190.qm@web81306.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0aad01caf788$7b0cf4a0$7126dde0$@rr.com> > It's not safe? Interesting. There does appear to be a legitimate concern there, if the truck bed is carpeted or has a plastic liner. http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/pdfs/hid2.pdf However, I daresay that, if this concerns you, it would be trivial to add a ground wire to your caddy. -- Randall From jdinnis at gmail.com Wed May 19 13:22:14 2010 From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis) Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 14:22:14 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] fuel caddy In-Reply-To: References: <98234.28190.qm@web81306.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I've often wondered about this. Taking a plastic (non conductive) tank out of the truck and setting it on concrete (very poor conductor when dry) isn't going to ground it either. I wonder how often this really happens, and how often other sources of ignition cause gas staion fires. On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 11:46 AM, David Scheidt wrote: > On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 9:50 AM, Mark Andy wrote: > >> Howdy, >> >> >> On Wed, 19 May 2010, David Scheidt wrote: >> >>> Well I am tired of dealing with 5 gallon gas cans and California's special >>>> spring loaded anti spill gas caps. Yup I am in need of a fuel caddy, >>>> 25-30 >>>> gallons with a pump. Another requirement would be, and this is where my >>>> dilema is I can't seem to find this option, a built in hook on top of the >>>> unit so I can connect a strap to my front end loader to transfer the unit >>>> in >>>> and out of my truck bed. Any one out their have any suggestions as to >>>> where >>>> I can find a model with these options? >>>> >>>> How are you going to get out of your truck at the gas station to fill >>> it? Or are you just planning on blowing yourself up? >>> >> >> Why can't he just fill it up in the bed of the truck? > > > It's not safe? There's no guarantee that a decent ground exists between > container and the ground, other than the gasoline nozzle. Filling a > container with gasoline generates a substantial static charge. If that > charge is dissipated by a spark from the container to the nozzle you get a > nice fire. That's not an idle concern; it happens fairly regularly. > Happened to station down the road from me five or six years ago. > > -- > David Scheidt > dmscheidt at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com > > -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Wed May 19 19:12:43 2010 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 20:12:43 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] fuel caddy In-Reply-To: <001b01caf77d$7380e440$5a82acc0$@com> References: <98234.28190.qm@web81306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>, , , , <001b01caf77d$7380e440$5a82acc0$@com> Message-ID: What is the difference between a metal caddy in the back of a truck and the gas tank in the truck? A plastic liner would be a difference. Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! > From: parkanzky at gmail.com > To: dmscheidt at gmail.com; marka at maracing.com > Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 14:02:29 -0400 > CC: shop-talk at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] fuel caddy > > > Why can't he just fill it up in the bed of the truck? > > > It's not safe? There's no guarantee that a decent ground exists between > container and the ground, other than the gasoline nozzle. Filling a > container with gasoline generates a substantial static charge. If that > charge is dissipated by a spark from the container to the nozzle you get a > nice fire. That's not an idle concern; it happens fairly regularly. > Happened to station down the road from me five or six years ago. > > -- > David Scheidt > dmscheidt at gmail.com > > > So how do you fill those fuel caddies that sit across the bed of a pickup > truck against the cab? They're really common where I grew up and I am > certain that people didn't remove them from the truck to fill them. > > -Paul > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com From mark at bradakis.com Wed May 19 21:12:05 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 21:12:05 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] fuel caddy In-Reply-To: References: <98234.28190.qm@web81306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>, , , , <001b01caf77d$7380e440$5a82acc0$@com> Message-ID: <4BF4A885.8020603@bradakis.com> Rich White wrote: > What is the difference between a metal caddy in the back of a truck and the > gas tank in the truck? > The gas tank does not move relative to the truck. The caddy can shift about generating static. mjb. From chad at linuxeg.com Wed May 19 21:12:52 2010 From: chad at linuxeg.com (Chad on LEG) Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 23:12:52 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] fuel caddy In-Reply-To: References: <98234.28190.qm@web81306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>, , , , <001b01caf77d$7380e440$5a82acc0$@com> Message-ID: <4BF4A8B4.8010202@linuxeg.com> /5YHwLk: Permission denied From dmscheidt at gmail.com Wed May 19 23:15:48 2010 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 01:15:48 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] fuel caddy In-Reply-To: <4BF4A885.8020603@bradakis.com> References: <98234.28190.qm@web81306.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <001b01caf77d$7380e440$5a82acc0$@com> <4BF4A885.8020603@bradakis.com> Message-ID: On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 11:12 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > Rich White wrote: > >> What is the difference between a metal caddy in the back of a truck and >> the >> gas tank in the truck? >> >> > The gas tank does not move relative to the truck. The caddy can shift > about generating static. > > m The tank is properly grounded. So are the sort of permanently installed tanks that someone was asking about earlier. (I'll also note that I've never seen one that was approved for use with flammables. They're all intended (at least according to their labels) for combustible fuels. Yeah, many of hem are filled with gasoline.) -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu May 20 16:16:53 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 15:16:53 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Funny wrench request Message-ID: <009c01caf86a$279fdb10$76df9130$@rr.com> A 'normal' box-end wrench generally has the handle attached at the top of the box section, so that some fraction of the wrench sticks out like a socket does. Eg, the RH side of http://tinyurl.com/2enreg8 What I'm looking for is a ratcheting wrench that has a similar offset. Anyone know of something like that? The situation is a nut on a stud, with only about 1/2" clearance from the end of the stud to a nearby frame member. The nut holds a flanged plate, where the flange sticks up to cover about 2/3 of the nut, so an ordinary "flat" GearWrench doesn't get a very good grip. An ordinary box end wrench will work, but is somewhat tedious ... Ok, I'm getting lazy in my old age! So far, this is all I've come up with: http://tinyurl.com/24eflsk which would do, but I'm hoping the listerati will know of some alternatives. -- Randall From ggelhar at earthlink.net Thu May 20 17:52:28 2010 From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar) Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 18:52:28 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Funny wrench request Message-ID: <410-220105420235228466@earthlink.net> Randall, I've got a set of these like Ebay Item number: 280457849471 Would that suit your pupose? Greg Gelhar Osseo, MN > Subject: [Shop-talk] Funny wrench request > > A 'normal' box-end wrench generally has the handle attached at the top of > the box section, so that some fraction of the wrench sticks out like a > socket does. Eg, the RH side of > http://tinyurl.com/2enreg8 > > What I'm looking for is a ratcheting wrench that has a similar offset. > Anyone know of something like that? > > The situation is a nut on a stud, with only about 1/2" clearance from the > end of the stud to a nearby frame member. The nut holds a flanged plate, > where the flange sticks up to cover about 2/3 of the nut, so an ordinary > "flat" GearWrench doesn't get a very good grip. An ordinary box end wrench > will work, but is somewhat tedious ... Ok, I'm getting lazy in my old age! > > So far, this is all I've come up with: > http://tinyurl.com/24eflsk > which would do, but I'm hoping the listerati will know of some alternatives. > > -- Randall From strovato at optonline.net Thu May 20 17:54:11 2010 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 19:54:11 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Funny wrench request In-Reply-To: <009c01caf86a$279fdb10$76df9130$@rr.com> References: <009c01caf86a$279fdb10$76df9130$@rr.com> Message-ID: <0L2Q00JS4T1T2ID0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> IIRC, there are gearwrenches that you flip over to tighten or loosen the fastener. These are flat. Then there are the kind that have a reverse lever like a regular ratchet wrench. These, I think, are somewhat offset like a "normal' box-end wrench. I take it you have the first kind. Perhaps the second kind would be what you want? -Steve Trovato strovato at optonline.net At 06:16 PM 5/20/2010, Randall wrote: >A 'normal' box-end wrench generally has the handle attached at the top of >the box section, so that some fraction of the wrench sticks out like a >socket does. Eg, the RH side of >http://tinyurl.com/2enreg8 > >What I'm looking for is a ratcheting wrench that has a similar offset. >Anyone know of something like that? > >The situation is a nut on a stud, with only about 1/2" clearance from the >end of the stud to a nearby frame member. The nut holds a flanged plate, >where the flange sticks up to cover about 2/3 of the nut, so an ordinary >"flat" GearWrench doesn't get a very good grip. An ordinary box end wrench >will work, but is somewhat tedious ... Ok, I'm getting lazy in my old age! > >So far, this is all I've come up with: >http://tinyurl.com/24eflsk >which would do, but I'm hoping the listerati will know of some alternatives. > >-- Randall >_______________________________________________ > >Shop-talk at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.96 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/strovato at optonline.net From dmscheidt at gmail.com Thu May 20 17:54:06 2010 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 19:54:06 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Funny wrench request In-Reply-To: <009c01caf86a$279fdb10$76df9130$@rr.com> References: <009c01caf86a$279fdb10$76df9130$@rr.com> Message-ID: On Thu, May 20, 2010 at 6:16 PM, Randall wrote: > > A 'normal' box-end wrench generally has the handle attached at the top of > the box section, so that some fraction of the wrench sticks out like a > socket does. B Eg, the RH side of > http://tinyurl.com/2enreg8 > > What I'm looking for is a ratcheting wrench that has a similar offset. > Anyone know of something like that? > > The situation is a nut on a stud, with only about 1/2" clearance from the > end of the stud to a nearby frame member. B The nut holds a flanged plate, > where the flange sticks up to cover about 2/3 of the nut, so an ordinary > "flat" GearWrench doesn't get a very good grip. B An ordinary box end wrench > will work, but is somewhat tedious ... Ok, I'm getting lazy in my old age! > > So far, this is all I've come up with: > http://tinyurl.com/24eflsk > which would do, but I'm hoping the listerati will know of some alternatives. > Will http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=4943&group_ID=5 40&store=&dir=catalog (Wrench, Ratcheting box, 25 degree offset) or http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=68064&group_ID= 17479&store=&dir=catalog Wrench, Combination, Flank Drive Plus, Ratcheting Box Sears sell equivalents, but it's easier to find things on snap-on's site, since I know part numbers... -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu May 20 18:15:57 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 17:15:57 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Funny wrench request In-Reply-To: References: <009c01caf86a$279fdb10$76df9130$@rr.com> Message-ID: <00dc01caf87a$c96fdb10$5c4f9130$@rr.com> > Will > http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=4943&grou > p_ID=540&store=&dir=catalog Hard to tell for sure, but I donbt think those are going to work. Perhaps I should have explained that the flange is quite close to the nut, there is not room for a ratchet mechanism between nut and flange. I really need the 'socket' portion of the wrench to extend out, the way a normal box-end wrench does. I appreciate the response, though. -- Randall From racertod at racertodd.com Thu May 20 18:33:03 2010 From: racertod at racertodd.com (Todd Walke) Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 17:33:03 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Funny wrench request In-Reply-To: <009c01caf86a$279fdb10$76df9130$@rr.com> Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20100520172353.00bc9c38@mail.avvanta.com> You wrote: >An ordinary box end wrench >will work, but is somewhat tedious ... Ok, I'm getting lazy in my old age! C'mon, any excuse to buy a new tool is a good excuse! Gearwrench has some flex-style ratcheting wrenches that allow the handle to be at an angle to the head. Here is the whole Gearwrench collection: http://www.gearwrench.com/catalog/wrenches/ratcheting/ There are fixed offset ratcheting wrenches like these: Sears, Northern Tool, etc sell similar items. Snap On has a similar item, this is one example: Todd Seattle,WA '86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 270,000 miles '01 Golf TDI, silver. (new work car) 240,000 miles '87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car) 654,000 miles <- Gone to a new home :( http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff From shop at justbrits.com Thu May 20 20:28:10 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 21:28:10 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Funny wrench request In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.2.20100520172353.00bc9c38@mail.avvanta.com> References: <5.1.0.14.2.20100520172353.00bc9c38@mail.avvanta.com> Message-ID: <4BF5EFBA.2030800@justbrits.com> Todd, great search -:) I have a serious doubt that any will take care of Randall's "need". That said, I will take a pick of a wrench in the AM [DinDin IS calling -:)] then post on my site and let you all know. Ed PS: Randall - BTDT - these work GREAT and as far as I .........know the 'style' is no longer available new. HOWEVER, .........I would be happy to lend you one of mine -:) !! From mikey at b2systems.com Fri May 21 09:04:17 2010 From: mikey at b2systems.com (Mike Rambour) Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 08:04:17 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Funny wrench request In-Reply-To: <009c01caf86a$279fdb10$76df9130$@rr.com> References: <009c01caf86a$279fdb10$76df9130$@rr.com> Message-ID: <4BF6A0F1.7070107@b2systems.com> Sometimes, you just have to go to SEARS and buy something close and take the bandsaw and TIG to it. SEARS because you will cut it up right away so no need to spend money on high quality and SEARS wrenches are not bad to begin with. Bandsaw it up to what you need and TIG weld exactly the way you need it. Sorry, not much help but my method works quite well. mike On 05/20/2010 03:16 PM, Randall wrote: > A 'normal' box-end wrench generally has the handle attached at the top of > the box section, so that some fraction of the wrench sticks out like a > socket does. Eg, the RH side of > http://tinyurl.com/2enreg8 > > What I'm looking for is a ratcheting wrench that has a similar offset. > Anyone know of something like that? > > The situation is a nut on a stud, with only about 1/2" clearance from the > end of the stud to a nearby frame member. The nut holds a flanged plate, > where the flange sticks up to cover about 2/3 of the nut, so an ordinary > "flat" GearWrench doesn't get a very good grip. An ordinary box end wrench > will work, but is somewhat tedious ... Ok, I'm getting lazy in my old age! > > So far, this is all I've come up with: > http://tinyurl.com/24eflsk > which would do, but I'm hoping the listerati will know of some alternatives. > > -- Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mikey at b2systems.com From strovato at optonline.net Fri May 21 10:08:14 2010 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 12:08:14 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Funny wrench request In-Reply-To: <009c01caf86a$279fdb10$76df9130$@rr.com> References: <009c01caf86a$279fdb10$76df9130$@rr.com> Message-ID: <0L2S00KAU259GRO0@mta3.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Why isn't the GearWrench 85202 Quadbox Doublebox Ratcheting Wrench that you already found the perfect answer? Also, if you break the nut free with a normal box wrench can't you switch to a regular gearwrench for the tedious part? The nut comes away from the flange obstruction as you remove it, doesn't it, improving the grip with each successive turn? -Steve At 06:16 PM 5/20/2010, Randall wrote: >The situation is a nut on a stud, with only about 1/2" clearance from the >end of the stud to a nearby frame member. The nut holds a flanged plate, >where the flange sticks up to cover about 2/3 of the nut, so an ordinary >"flat" GearWrench doesn't get a very good grip. An ordinary box end wrench >will work, but is somewhat tedious ... Ok, I'm getting lazy in my old age! > >So far, this is all I've come up with: >http://tinyurl.com/24eflsk >which would do, but I'm hoping the listerati will know of some alternatives. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri May 21 12:03:02 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 11:03:02 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Funny wrench request In-Reply-To: <009c01caf86a$279fdb10$76df9130$@rr.com> References: <009c01caf86a$279fdb10$76df9130$@rr.com> Message-ID: <019d01caf90f$db310910$91931b30$@rr.com> Thanks to all for the suggestions. Looks like the QuadBox is the best solution available, so I'm going to run over to my local Ace in a bit and see if they have one in stock. In case anyone is interested, here is a shot of the location in question, with the nut already removed. The nut in the foreground is actually 1/16" smaller than what should be in there, so you can see that the flange is quite close to the nut. http://tinyurl.com/2bzwo3e And the angle of that shot makes the area seem rather roomier than it is, here's another one (other side, with the pan/flange removed) that better shows how close the frame member is: http://tinyurl.com/2au5dxc -- Randall From jandkstone99 at msn.com Fri May 21 13:30:12 2010 From: jandkstone99 at msn.com (Jim Stone) Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 14:30:12 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Funny wrench request In-Reply-To: <019d01caf90f$db310910$91931b30$@rr.com> References: <009c01caf86a$279fdb10$76df9130$@rr.com>, <019d01caf90f$db310910$91931b30$@rr.com> Message-ID: Now that I can see the area, did you try a crow's foot wrench? > From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com > To: shop-talk at autox.team.net > Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 11:03:02 -0700 > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Funny wrench request > > Thanks to all for the suggestions. Looks like the QuadBox is the best > solution available, so I'm going to run over to my local Ace in a bit and > see if they have one in stock. > > In case anyone is interested, here is a shot of the location in question, > with the nut already removed. The nut in the foreground is actually 1/16" > smaller than what should be in there, so you can see that the flange is > quite close to the nut. > http://tinyurl.com/2bzwo3e > > And the angle of that shot makes the area seem rather roomier than it is, > here's another one (other side, with the pan/flange removed) that better > shows how close the frame member is: > http://tinyurl.com/2au5dxc > > -- Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jandkstone99 at msn.com > _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3 From watsonm05 at comcast.net Fri May 21 17:02:33 2010 From: watsonm05 at comcast.net (Mark Watson) Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 19:02:33 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Funny wrench request Message-ID: Ok Randall, Please excuse my nosiness but what, prey tell, is this on? Thanks for causing a great flow of responses about these kinds of wrenches. I think a set will be my next purchase (or Father's day gift idea?) Mark From watsonm05 at comcast.net Fri May 21 17:17:58 2010 From: watsonm05 at comcast.net (Mark Watson) Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 19:17:58 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] fuel caddy References: <98234.28190.qm@web81306.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3422788BD8A541D296C623C570DEC2A5@watsongxpejt9r> So why not do what we did back when I used to fly and ground the thing? When we were fueling up the Cessna's the first step was to clip the ground wire to the aircraft and then enjoy the pleasure of fueling. For this instance have a three way clip - one connection to the gas can, another to the vehicle, and the third to the fuel pump's nozzle. That being said I do remove the gas cans from whichever transporting vehicle and put them on the ground. Since the various transporting vehicles are things like sedans with big trunks, a Ford E150 van, and a Chrysler mini-van I don't want a build-up of fumes inside the vehicle but rather outside it right next to the gas pump where it's nice and safe ;-) I seem to recall seeing a TV show where they did some (NON-MYTHBUSTERS) types of experiments with this type of thing and could repeatably cause a spark between the pump nozzle and the vehicle. They actually got a fire going a couple of times. Very scarily impressive. My parents once owned a Citroen Mehari. Plastic body. Cycolac ABS plastic body. Never had a problem with it but of course the gas tank nozzle on it was steel. Just my rambling $0.02 worth. Mark From bk13 at earthlink.net Fri May 21 17:47:40 2010 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 16:47:40 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Funny wrench request In-Reply-To: <4BF6A0F1.7070107@b2systems.com> References: <009c01caf86a$279fdb10$76df9130$@rr.com> <4BF6A0F1.7070107@b2systems.com> Message-ID: <4BF71B9C.1050609@earthlink.net> I found the wrenches from the $.99 cent store very easy to modify. I needed a 15/16" open end wrench that was only 1/8 inch thick to hold the water pipe between the wall box and the leaky washing machine shutoff valve. It only took a few minutes with a grinder and file to get a perfect fit. Brian Mike Rambour wrote: > Sometimes, you just have to go to SEARS and buy something close and > take the bandsaw and TIG to it. > > SEARS because you will cut it up right away so no need to spend > money on high quality and SEARS wrenches are not bad to begin with. > Bandsaw it up to what you need and TIG weld exactly the way you need it. > > Sorry, not much help but my method works quite well. > > mike > > On 05/20/2010 03:16 PM, Randall wrote: >> A 'normal' box-end wrench generally has the handle attached at the >> top of >> the box section, so that some fraction of the wrench sticks out like a >> socket does. Eg, the RH side of >> http://tinyurl.com/2enreg8 >> >> What I'm looking for is a ratcheting wrench that has a similar offset. >> Anyone know of something like that? >> >> The situation is a nut on a stud, with only about 1/2" clearance from >> the >> end of the stud to a nearby frame member. The nut holds a flanged >> plate, >> where the flange sticks up to cover about 2/3 of the nut, so an ordinary >> "flat" GearWrench doesn't get a very good grip. An ordinary box end >> wrench >> will work, but is somewhat tedious ... Ok, I'm getting lazy in my old >> age! >> >> So far, this is all I've come up with: >> http://tinyurl.com/24eflsk >> which would do, but I'm hoping the listerati will know of some >> alternatives. >> >> -- Randall >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mikey at b2systems.com > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net From malaboge at aol.com Fri May 21 19:00:44 2010 From: malaboge at aol.com (malaboge at aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 21:00:44 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Funny wrench request In-Reply-To: <019d01caf90f$db310910$91931b30$@rr.com> References: <009c01caf86a$279fdb10$76df9130$@rr.com> <019d01caf90f$db310910$91931b30$@rr.com> Message-ID: <8CCC761574BF14E-27A8-2756@webmail-m102.sysops.aol.com> Dude- Now that we know what you're workin on, it will be much easier....Nine times out of ten, the inner nuts on the TR3 spring pan will hit the frame before they even reach the end of the studs. There was "almost" enough clearance to remove them when they were new. I see by your pic, the bushings on the fulcrum pin are "compromised" to say the least. This allows the pan to drop even further and make those nuts a bugger to remove. Bite the bullet and use an open end on all four as they will hit the frame before they are clear of the stud...any other wrench will be "trapped" when the nut hits the frame. (You may actually have to cut the studs if the bushings have allowed the spring pan to settle too far). Once free of this engineering faux pas, either use later a-arms that don't use a stud, or remove the stud and drill down thru the hole so you can use a bolt/nut setup as the later cars do. Often had my nuts trapped too... Nick in Nor Cal -----Original Message----- From: Randall To: 'Shop Talk' Sent: Fri, May 21, 2010 11:03 am Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Funny wrench request Thanks to all for the suggestions. Looks like the QuadBox is the best olution available, so I'm going to run over to my local Ace in a bit and ee if they have one in stock. In case anyone is interested, here is a shot of the location in question, ith the nut already removed. The nut in the foreground is actually 1/16" maller than what should be in there, so you can see that the flange is uite close to the nut. ttp://tinyurl.com/2bzwo3e And the angle of that shot makes the area seem rather roomier than it is, ere's another one (other side, with the pan/flange removed) that better hows how close the frame member is: ttp://tinyurl.com/2au5dxc -- Randall _________________________ From eltonclark at gmail.com Fri May 21 19:45:33 2010 From: eltonclark at gmail.com (Elton E. (Tony) Clark) Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 20:45:33 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Funny wrench request In-Reply-To: <8CCC761574BF14E-27A8-2756@webmail-m102.sysops.aol.com> References: <009c01caf86a$279fdb10$76df9130$@rr.com> <019d01caf90f$db310910$91931b30$@rr.com> <8CCC761574BF14E-27A8-2756@webmail-m102.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: *On a one time application of terrible access, I have had great sucess with turning a nut with repeated blasts of an air hammer . . fit a bit with a chisel end, sharpen now and then and turn a flat at a time. Perfected while working on a Citroen 2CV; the car from Hell.* *Tony* From shop at justbrits.com Fri May 21 21:04:43 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 22:04:43 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Funny wrench request In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BF749CB.6010203@justbrits.com> << Please excuse my nosiness but what, prey tell, is this on? >> Mark, MY money is on it being a TR-3 !?! Ed From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri May 21 21:29:59 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 20:29:59 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Funny wrench request In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <19ba01caf95f$0ee0e6f0$0301a8c0@randall> > Please excuse my nosiness but what, prey tell, is this on? No problem, Mark. The photos are of my 56 Triumph TR3. > Thanks for causing a great flow of responses about these kinds of > wrenches. I think a set will be my next purchase (or > Father's day gift idea?) The regular GearWrench combo wrenches are certainly a very worthwhile addition, if you work on cars and machinery. I originally bought them because nothing else will fit on the bolts that sew together the bodywork on a TR3, but rapidly found out that they are great in many different areas. FWIW, Turns out the Ace didn't have the QuadBox wrenches, and I need to pull the TR back apart, so I guess I'll do it the old-fashioned way once more. Thanks again for all the responses, Randall 56 TR3 TS13571L current project 59 TR3A TS39781LO (now totaled :( 71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild 71 Stag LE2013LBW awaiting (manual) gearbox rebuild From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri May 21 21:45:27 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 20:45:27 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Funny wrench request In-Reply-To: <8CCC761574BF14E-27A8-2756@webmail-m102.sysops.aol.com> References: <009c01caf86a$279fdb10$76df9130$@rr.com><019d01caf90f$db310910$91931b30$@rr.com> <8CCC761574BF14E-27A8-2756@webmail-m102.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <19be01caf961$37f41f10$0301a8c0@randall> > This allows the pan to drop > even further > and make those nuts a bugger to remove. In the photo where you can see the joint sag, I was already releasing the spring; but I still could have just pushed the arm up for more clearance. But of course normally the spring is fully compressed when removing the nuts, so the arms should actually be pulling upwards against the joint; meaning that any wear actually increases the clearance. > Nine times > out of ten, the inner nuts on the TR3 spring pan will hit the > frame before > they even reach the end of the studs. Mebbe I've just been lucky, but I've done a lot of TR front ends over the last 35 years or so; and it has never been a problem for me. And as you can see, it wasn't a problem this time either. However, that is a good point as to why the QuadBox might not be the best choice. There may not be room for it to fit between the end of the stud and the frame. Randall From jibjib at att.net Fri May 21 21:50:42 2010 From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks) Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 20:50:42 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Funny wrench request In-Reply-To: <4BF749CB.6010203@justbrits.com> References: <4BF749CB.6010203@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <043756B6EA194E2799AC02471F672A52@hpa1477c> Yeah, Nick hit the removal technique on the head. Nick, I didn't know you were lurking on this list. This is definitely bottom A-arm of a TR3. Jack Seattle -----Original Message----- From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Shop at " Just Brits " Sent: Friday, May 21, 2010 8:05 PM To: 'Shop Talk' Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Funny wrench request << Please excuse my nosiness but what, prey tell, is this on? >> Mark, MY money is on it being a TR-3 !?! Ed _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibjib at att.net From doug at dougbraun.com Mon May 24 07:26:05 2010 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Douglas Braun) Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 09:26:05 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] [Spits] Bent Axles? In-Reply-To: <856828.84057.qm@web43138.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <856828.84057.qm@web43138.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: If the axle were bent, you could measure runout of the hub or wheel, or maybe runout of the center portion of the axle shaft. I would take a lot of measurements before jumping to conclusions. You could also eyeball the distance between the edge of the brake drum and the backing plate as you turn the wheel, but this could depend on how accurately the drum was made (I believe the edge wouldn't ever have been trued up on a lathe,) Doug Braun '72 Spit On Mon, May 24, 2010 at 8:45 AM, Todd Bermudez wrote: > Pretty sure I know the answer to this...just hoping I'm wrong. > > After pulling the differential out of the wife's 1968 MK1 GT6 and replacing it, I'm reassembling everything. I hung the axle assembly and installed the axles at the differential. I hadn't installed the shock yet and decided to rotate the axle. I noticed the spring going up & down...maybe 1/4"? I did the other side & it did the same thing. After getting the shocks installed I spun both axles & notice a slight up & down motion of the spring. Is this normal? Are both axles bent? It's hard to tell with a straight edge. For now, I'm going to "run what i brung" as I have to have it ready for the Louisville British Bash. I do have another set of axles to use...of course they could be bent too? I guess the proof will be the drive to Louisville. I had the drive shaft balanced & new UJs installed in both the Driveshaft and axles. From bspidell at comcast.net Tue May 25 18:59:35 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 17:59:35 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Eastwood MIG Welders Message-ID: <4BFC7277.5040606@comcast.net> I see Eastwood has come out with their own branded MIGs, a 135amp and a 175amp. The specs look good--both have infinite current settings--and the 175 includes a 'free' spool gun for aluminum and it's 'only' $500. What y'all think? bs -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From dmscheidt at gmail.com Tue May 25 19:35:32 2010 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 21:35:32 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Eastwood MIG Welders In-Reply-To: <4BFC7277.5040606@comcast.net> References: <4BFC7277.5040606@comcast.net> Message-ID: On Tue, May 25, 2010 at 8:59 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > I see Eastwood has come out with their own branded MIGs, a 135amp and a > 175amp. B The specs look good--both have infinite current settings--and the > 175 includes a 'free' spool gun for aluminum and it's 'only' $500. > > What y'all think? > They're made by someone else for eastwood. Unless Eastwood's pricing department has screwed up, they're available elsewhere for less. They're a Chinese copy of someone else's design. But mig welders aren't exactly rocket science in the 21st century. The electronics are all bog-standard commodity parts (though there are differences inthe qulity of parts used.). There's an awful lot of commonality in the mechanical parts. If I wanted a Chinese welder, I wouldn't buy one from Eastwood. -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com From cavanadd at verizon.net Tue May 25 19:44:57 2010 From: cavanadd at verizon.net (David C.) Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 18:44:57 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Eastwood MIG Welders In-Reply-To: <4BFC7277.5040606@comcast.net> References: <4BFC7277.5040606@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4BFC7D19.2020406@verizon.net> I haven't received an Eastwood catalog for a while, but my impression of a lot of their stuff is that it's overpriced and often available for less from other vendors (although they do seem to have a lot of cool stuff I have never seen elsewhere, too). My suggestion would be to go to your local industrial welding outlet and get a Miller, Lincoln or Hobart (depending on what color you like), and with that you'll also get access to the service and advice from the people that work there, which I doubt you'll be able to get from Eastwood. You will probably also have an easier time getting parts from a name brand vendor, too. Bob Spidell wrote: > I see Eastwood has come out with their own branded MIGs, a 135amp and a > 175amp. The specs look good--both have infinite current settings--and > the 175 includes a 'free' spool gun for aluminum and it's 'only' $500. > > What y'all think? > > bs From doug at dougbraun.com Tue May 25 20:50:03 2010 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Douglas Braun) Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 22:50:03 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Eastwood MIG Welders In-Reply-To: <4BFC7277.5040606@comcast.net> References: <4BFC7277.5040606@comcast.net> Message-ID: Here is another example of the Chinese Lincoln clone: http://www.gts-welco.com/gts-welco.aspx?pcid=263&ptid=1 Actually, Eastwood's price is pretty good. Doug From trmarty at hotmail.com Wed May 26 12:43:12 2010 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Wed, 26 May 2010 14:43:12 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop ceiling paint In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Plans are to paint the ceiling in my 32x32 shop this weekend. 11ft ceilings. My thought is to use a gloss white to reflect the light better. Make sense? Marty _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with Hotmail. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832 6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4 From pethier at comcast.net Wed May 26 12:48:30 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 26 May 2010 18:48:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop ceiling paint In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <911981800.1595161274899710462.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Gloss or flat may not make that much difference to the light, but the gloss is easier to clean, or may just stay cleaner. I used semigloss on my shop because that was what was available at the time. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 1979 Caterham Super Seven 2004 Suburban 8.1 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com ----- "marty sukey" wrote: > From: "marty sukey" > To: "shop-talk list" > Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2010 1:43:12 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop ceiling paint > > Plans are to paint the ceiling in my 32x32 shop this weekend. 11ft > ceilings. > My thought is to use a gloss white to reflect the light better. Make > sense? > > > > Marty From mikey at b2systems.com Wed May 26 12:57:31 2010 From: mikey at b2systems.com (Mike Rambour) Date: Wed, 26 May 2010 11:57:31 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop ceiling paint In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BFD6F1B.6080109@b2systems.com> My garage has a 14x16 addition that I painted first, I painted it gloss white and wow it was bright but it also showed EVERY imperfection in the walls/ceiling. For the main garage with cathedral ceilings so 11ft. at the peak off 9ft. walls, I went with semi-gloss and liked it enough that I reshot the small addition also with the semi-gloss. It still shows imperfections but much less and its bright enough that with all my lights you still need sunglasses to walk in the garage :) mike On 05/26/2010 11:43 AM, marty sukey wrote: > Plans are to paint the ceiling in my 32x32 shop this weekend. 11ft ceilings. > My thought is to use a gloss white to reflect the light better. Make sense? > > > > Marty From pj_thomas at comcast.net Wed May 26 13:52:39 2010 From: pj_thomas at comcast.net (Peter J. Thomas) Date: Wed, 26 May 2010 15:52:39 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop ceiling paint In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BFD7C07.60001@comcast.net> On 5/26/2010 2:43 PM, marty sukey wrote: > Plans are to paint the ceiling in my 32x32 shop this weekend. 11ft ceilings. > My thought is to use a gloss white to reflect the light better. Make sense? > For lighting flat is better. Flat provides better dispersion. Though the difference is probably negligible, gloss will absorb more light than flat. Peter T. > > > Marty > > _________________________________________________________________ > The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with > Hotmail. > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832 > 6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4 > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_thomas at comcast.net From tputland at charter.net Thu May 27 07:21:12 2010 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 6:21:12 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] trucks a/c Message-ID: <20100527092112.QIF6Q.3886459.root@mp08> I have a 96 S10 with about 171k miles on the 4.6 litre Vortec V6 (a great motor IMO). I haven't had to do much to it beyond basic repairs with the exception of a/c work. Because I can't handle the heat, I had to basically get the a/c system rebuilt/replaced a few years ago. After being taken to the cleaners by the first shop, I have now had it looked at by a shop where we know each other and I trust them. A couple days ago I was told the system is charged, pressurized and not leaking. And it was cooling down to 68 degrees; not too bad a temp but when the truck was "younger", the a/c used to get so cold as to almost be painful (I say almost as I love the cold and where shorts year 'round here in southern WI). Here is my question: Is there anything that can be done to get the system to be colder? Or am I SOL because of the newer freon being used? (The guy at the shop basically said there was nothing else they can do and didn't charge me for the check up; which is a nice thing.) I plan on cleaning out around and in between the two radiators this weekend. Hopefully this will help. TIA for any suggestions Tim Dairyland Datsuns From jniolon at bham.rr.com Thu May 27 07:37:16 2010 From: jniolon at bham.rr.com (john niolon) Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 08:37:16 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] trucks a/c In-Reply-To: <20100527092112.QIF6Q.3886459.root@mp08> References: <20100527092112.QIF6Q.3886459.root@mp08> Message-ID: Tim, I'm no A/C guru but it's been my experience that the new freon does not get the colder temperatures in the old systems.... even after changing out the orifices my Blazer never got Icebox cold like it used to... I know there are additives you can add to the freon to help but don't know if it does much. One thing that helped me was to switch over to recirculated air after the car cooled down... that way you're not trying to cool the very hot outside air... 680 is lukewarm... it ain't cool in a hot truck john ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim" To: "Shop Talk" Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 8:21 AM Subject: [Shop-talk] trucks a/c >I have a 96 S10 with about 171k miles on the 4.6 litre Vortec V6 (a great >motor IMO). I haven't had to do much to it beyond basic repairs with the >exception of a/c work. Because I can't handle the heat, I had to basically >get the a/c system rebuilt/replaced a few years ago. After being taken to >the cleaners by the first shop, I have now had it looked at by a shop where >we know each other and I trust them. A couple days ago I was told the >system is charged, pressurized and not leaking. And it was cooling down to >68 degrees; not too bad a temp but when the truck was "younger", the a/c >used to get so cold as to almost be painful (I say almost as I love the >cold and where shorts year 'round here in southern WI). > > Here is my question: Is there anything that can be done to get the system > to be colder? Or am I SOL because of the newer freon being used? (The guy > at the shop basically said there was nothing else they can do and didn't > charge me for the check up; which is a nice thing.) I plan on cleaning out > around and in between the two radiators this weekend. Hopefully this will > help. > > TIA for any suggestions > > Tim > Dairyland Datsuns > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jniolon at bham.rr.com > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.819 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2898 - Release Date: 05/26/10 13:26:00 From mg_garage at comcast.net Thu May 27 07:41:55 2010 From: mg_garage at comcast.net (gordies garage) Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 09:41:55 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] trucks a/c In-Reply-To: <20100527092112.QIF6Q.3886459.root@mp08> References: <20100527092112.QIF6Q.3886459.root@mp08> Message-ID: <4BFE76A3.9070108@comcast.net> You may be SOL Tim. Having been in the retail car business during the switchover from R12 to R134a, I remember well the complaints of the AC not getting cold enough. Gordie Tim wrote: > I have a 96 S10 with about 171k miles on the 4.6 litre Vortec V6 (a great motor IMO). I haven't had to do much to it beyond basic repairs with the exception of a/c work. Because I can't handle the heat, I had to basically get the a/c system rebuilt/replaced a few years ago. After being taken to the cleaners by the first shop, I have now had it looked at by a shop where we know each other and I trust them. A couple days ago I was told the system is charged, pressurized and not leaking. And it was cooling down to 68 degrees; not too bad a temp but when the truck was "younger", the a/c used to get so cold as to almost be painful (I say almost as I love the cold and where shorts year 'round here in southern WI). > > Here is my question: Is there anything that can be done to get the system to be colder? Or am I SOL because of the newer freon being used? (The guy at the shop basically said there was nothing else they can do and didn't charge me for the check up; which is a nice thing.) I plan on cleaning out around and in between the two radiators this weekend. Hopefully this will help. > > TIA for any suggestions > > Tim > Dairyland Datsuns From pat at hornesystemstx.com Thu May 27 07:47:49 2010 From: pat at hornesystemstx.com (Pat Horne) Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 08:47:49 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] trucks a/c In-Reply-To: <4BFE76A3.9070108@comcast.net> References: <20100527092112.QIF6Q.3886459.root@mp08> <4BFE76A3.9070108@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4BFE7805.4070600@hornesystemstx.com> I have no experience with it personally, but it is my understanding that Freeze 12 is colder than R-134a IN A R-12 SYSTEM. It does not require a license to buy, at least here in Texas. I have no idea what is required to convert from R-134a back to Freeze 12. I suspect the oil would need to be changed and the system cleaned out. Thusly spake gordies garage, On 5/27/2010 8:41 AM: > You may be SOL Tim. Having been in the retail car business during the > switchover from R12 to R134a, I remember well the complaints of the AC > not getting cold enough. > > Gordie > > Tim wrote: >> I have a 96 S10 with about 171k miles on the 4.6 litre Vortec V6 (a >> great motor IMO). I haven't had to do much to it beyond basic repairs >> with the exception of a/c work. Because I can't handle the heat, I >> had to basically get the a/c system rebuilt/replaced a few years ago. >> After being taken to the cleaners by the first shop, I have now had >> it looked at by a shop where we know each other and I trust them. A >> couple days ago I was told the system is charged, pressurized and not >> leaking. And it was cooling down to 68 degrees; not too bad a temp >> but when the truck was "younger", the a/c used to get so cold as to >> almost be painful (I say almost as I love the cold and where shorts >> year 'round here in southern WI). >> >> Here is my question: Is there anything that can be done to get the >> system to be colder? Or am I SOL because of the newer freon being >> used? (The guy at the shop basically said there was nothing else they >> can do and didn't charge me for the check up; which is a nice thing.) >> I plan on cleaning out around and in between the two radiators this >> weekend. Hopefully this will help. >> >> TIA for any suggestions >> >> Tim >> Dairyland Datsuns > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat at hornesystemstx.com > > > -- Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems (512) 797-7501 Voice 5026 FM 2001 Pat at HorneSystemsTx.com Lockhart, TX 78644-4443 www.hornesystemstx.com -- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT -- From gzhookoff at e2m.com Thu May 27 07:57:47 2010 From: gzhookoff at e2m.com (George Zhookoff) Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 09:57:47 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] FW: trucks a/c Message-ID: <56BC26A92D7B4244ACBF6A3182D9789509B22967@CARVER.norcross.local> Tim, Checkout Duracool, propane based, larger molecules and runs at a lower pressure. Google it and see what folks say. George Zhookoff Max Flail Motor Sports Snellville >> Here is my question: Is there anything that can be done to get the >> system to be colder? Or am I SOL because of the newer freon being >> used? (The guy at the shop basically said there was nothing else they >> can do and didn't charge me for the check up; which is a nice thing.) >> I plan on cleaning out around and in between the two radiators this >> weekend. Hopefully this will help. >> >> TIA for any suggestions >> >> Tim >> Dairyland Datsuns From dmscheidt at gmail.com Thu May 27 08:01:43 2010 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 10:01:43 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] trucks a/c In-Reply-To: <4BFE7805.4070600@hornesystemstx.com> References: <20100527092112.QIF6Q.3886459.root@mp08> <4BFE76A3.9070108@comcast.net> <4BFE7805.4070600@hornesystemstx.com> Message-ID: On Thu, May 27, 2010 at 9:47 AM, Pat Horne wrote: > I have no experience with it personally, but it is my understanding that > Freeze 12 is colder than R-134a IN A R-12 SYSTEM. It does not require a > license to buy, at least here in Texas. I have no idea what is required to > convert from R-134a back to Freeze 12. I suspect the oil would need to be > changed and the system cleaned out. He doesn't have an r12 system that's been converted. He's got an R134a system that doesn't work right. Take it to shop that knows what they're doing. Insuffecient refrigerant charge is the usual culprit for this. Did they evacuate the system and refill it? Of just stick gauges on it and say "yup, it works."? -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu May 27 08:10:15 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 07:10:15 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] trucks a/c In-Reply-To: References: <20100527092112.QIF6Q.3886459.root@mp08> Message-ID: <230b01cafda6$54de8c70$0301a8c0@randall> > I'm no A/C guru but it's been my experience that the new > freon does not get > the colder temperatures in the old systems.... I agree, but wouldn't Tim's 96 S10 have had R134a from new? My guess would be that the compressor is "tired", ie worn and leaking internally making it not as efficient as it once was. And whatever you do, don't read these documents: http://yarchive.net/ac/ghg-hp.html http://www.vettenet.org/acfaq.txt Randall From tputland at charter.net Thu May 27 08:41:34 2010 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 7:41:34 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] trucks a/c In-Reply-To: <230b01cafda6$54de8c70$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <20100527104134.088MD.3891056.root@mp08> The system has been rebuilt by the shop that screwed me. They claimed that, on the first visit, the compressor needed to be replaced. On the next visit something else had to be replaced. After that second visit the system still didn't work--not even cool air. Once I took it to the shop I use now, they got it working but just not cold enough for my preference. As far as I know, the system was evacuated and refilled. I will verify this. If it needs to be evacuated and refilled, what are the chances of this working? Is the R134a that poor of a refrigerant that I will end up SOL? TIA again Tim ---- Randall wrote: ============= > I'm no A/C guru but it's been my experience that the new > freon does not get > the colder temperatures in the old systems.... I agree, but wouldn't Tim's 96 S10 have had R134a from new? My guess would be that the compressor is "tired", ie worn and leaking internally making it not as efficient as it once was. And whatever you do, don't read these documents: http://yarchive.net/ac/ghg-hp.html http://www.vettenet.org/acfaq.txt Randall _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tputland at charter.net From shop at justbrits.com Thu May 27 08:54:48 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 09:54:48 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] trucks a/c In-Reply-To: <20100527092112.QIF6Q.3886459.root@mp08> References: <20100527092112.QIF6Q.3886459.root@mp08> Message-ID: <4BFE87B8.6080706@justbrits.com> << Or am I SOL because of the newer freon being used? >> Sorry Tim, but yep. I have several pals that are 'shops' that will not even consider LBC[s] in their drive, so we all get along like long lost brothers - LOL !!! To a man they tell me that a "changed" system from old to new freon will NEVER cool like it did !! And that's a fact I am WELL versed as my daily drivers for past 18 or 19 years have been '70 El Caminos both factory A/C equipped and "converted" . Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com [where both Caminos may be seen - 1 in "Car F/S"] From dmscheidt at gmail.com Thu May 27 08:57:21 2010 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 10:57:21 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] trucks a/c In-Reply-To: <20100527104134.088MD.3891056.root@mp08> References: <230b01cafda6$54de8c70$0301a8c0@randall> <20100527104134.088MD.3891056.root@mp08> Message-ID: On Thu, May 27, 2010 at 10:41 AM, Tim wrote: > The system has been rebuilt by the shop that screwed me. They claimed that, on the first visit, the compressor needed to be replaced. On the next visit something else had to be replaced. After that second visit the system still didn't work--not even cool air. > > Once I took it to the shop I use now, they got it working but just not cold enough for my preference. > > As far as I know, the system was evacuated and refilled. I will verify this. If it needs to be evacuated and refilled, what are the chances of this working? Is the R134a that poor of a refrigerant that I will end up SOL? Your truck came with r134a; it did not come with R12. It should be possible to get it to work the way it did when it was new. It's possible that the shop used undersized replacement condenser or evaporators, but low refrigerant levels are more likely. -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com From jblair1948 at cox.net Thu May 27 09:07:20 2010 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 11:07:20 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] trucks a/c In-Reply-To: <20100527092112.QIF6Q.3886459.root@mp08> References: <20100527092112.QIF6Q.3886459.root@mp08> Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100527105851.045bfc58@cox.net> At 09:21 AM 5/27/2010, Tim wrote: >I have a 96 S10 with about 171k miles on the 4.6 litre Vortec V6 (a great motor >IMO). I haven't had to do much to it beyond basic repairs with the exception of >a/c work. Because I can't handle the heat,..... >A couple days ago I was told the system is charged, pressurized and not >leaking. And it was cooling down to 68 degrees; not too bad a temp but when >the truck was "younger", the a/c used to get so cold as to almost be painful (I >say almost as I love the cold and where shorts year 'round here in southern >WI). Tim, A couple of point not mentioned by others: 1. Most AC systems (auto, and home) only say they will give 20 below ambiant. So if you hit 90, then 70 is about right. 2. Do you have the air system in recirc (max) or vented? If not in recirculate, the you are mixing ambient with the cold air and decreasing the temp. drop you can get. 3. How big is you S10. Did they only make that in a standard truck cap, 1 seat? I too am very susceptiable to the heat. Over 75, I sweat just sitting around. It's not uncommon for me to be outside working in shorts and T shirt in 40 deg weather. I have a 95 Voyager van with factory 134a. During the summer, typically in the 90s, I get in the van and am hot. Turn the AC on Max and still die. Maybe by the time I get to where I'm going I've started to cool off. I've had the system checked several times. 4. Is the 68 deg in the cabin or in the air vents. The plenum temp should get down to about 40, but the cabin temp will be in the 60s due to head load from the roof, and glass. John >Here is my question: Is there anything that can be done to get the >system to be colder? Or am I SOL because of the newer freon being >used? (The guy at the shop basically said there was nothing else >they can do and didn't charge me for the check up; which is a nice >thing.) I plan on cleaning out around and in between the two >radiators this weekend. Hopefully this will help. > >TIA for any suggestions > >Tim >Dairyland Datsuns >_______________________________________________ > >Shop-talk at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.96 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jblair1948 at cox.net John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu May 27 09:45:23 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 08:45:23 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] trucks a/c In-Reply-To: <20100527104134.088MD.3891056.root@mp08> References: <230b01cafda6$54de8c70$0301a8c0@randall> <20100527104134.088MD.3891056.root@mp08> Message-ID: <017001cafdb3$9ffa1320$dfee3960$@rr.com> > As far as I know, the system was evacuated and refilled. I will verify > this. If it needs to be evacuated and refilled, what are the chances of > this working? Is the R134a that poor of a refrigerant that I will end > up SOL? As David said, since it was a R134a system originally, it should be possible to get back to the original performance. Unfortunately, with so much already done, I don't think anyone is going to be able to troubleshoot it by remote control. You need to find a competent shop and have them run tests to determine what the problem actually is. One area that has given me trouble in the past with GM AC is the expansion orifice. Apparently some of the aftermarket parts don't flow the same as the original, which causes less cooling. Or else mine was getting clogged from debris left in the system after the compressor was replaced; not sure. But that was an R12 system, I don't know offhand if the R134a systems even use an orifice or not. -- Randall From dmscheidt at gmail.com Thu May 27 10:34:08 2010 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 12:34:08 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] trucks a/c In-Reply-To: <017001cafdb3$9ffa1320$dfee3960$@rr.com> References: <230b01cafda6$54de8c70$0301a8c0@randall> <20100527104134.088MD.3891056.root@mp08> <017001cafdb3$9ffa1320$dfee3960$@rr.com> Message-ID: On Thu, May 27, 2010 at 11:45 AM, Randall wrote: >> As far as I know, the system was evacuated and refilled. I will verify >> this. If it needs to be evacuated and refilled, what are the chances of >> this working? Is the R134a that poor of a refrigerant that I will end >> up SOL? > > As David said, since it was a R134a system originally, it should be possible > to get back to the original performance. > > Unfortunately, with so much already done, I don't think anyone is going to be > able to troubleshoot it by remote control. B You need to find a competent shop > and have them run tests to determine what the problem actually is. > > One area that has given me trouble in the past with GM AC is the expansion > orifice. B Apparently some of the aftermarket parts don't flow the same as the > original, which causes less cooling. B Or else mine was getting clogged from > debris left in the system after the compressor was replaced; not sure. B But > that was an R12 system, I don't know offhand if the R134a systems even use an > orifice or not. > As far as I know, all GM AC systems have some sort of orifice tube. (since they invented them, in the mid 70s, at least.) Not many cars still use valves. In many cases, it's possible to put a tube with a bigger orifice in, and increase the cooling capacity of the system. This is something that does get screwed up. Most shops that do AC work have a kit of tubes and other small parts (filters and orings), which saves having to order them for every car that comes in. but kits get messed up, and the parts put in the wrong tray (or the shop runs out of something, and the tech is too lazy to reorder!), so the wrong tube can get installed. My diagnostic path for a vehicle with this complaint and history would be about this: visually verify that the vehicle has the right compressor, condenser and evaporator. Verify that operating pressures are correct, and that it shuts on and off at the right points. evacuate and charge with proper mass of r134a still doesn't work, then evacuate and replace filter and orifice tube. recharge. Scratch head. I don't know what the shop has done. -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com From rs1121 at earthlink.net Thu May 27 12:02:31 2010 From: rs1121 at earthlink.net (Ron Schmittou) Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 13:02:31 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] trucks a/c In-Reply-To: References: <20100527092112.QIF6Q.3886459.root@mp08> <4BFE76A3.9070108@comcast.net> <4BFE7805.4070600@hornesystemstx.com> Message-ID: <002801cafdc6$c78478a0$568d69e0$@net> What was the year of the changeover - I can't remember. Thanks Ron Schmittou Ron_S at agps.us Anna Office (972) 369-8640 Ext 210 Auto Fwd (469) 844-5482 Cell (214) 862-1871 -----Original Message----- From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Scheidt Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 9:02 AM To: pat at hornesystemstx.com Cc: Shop Talk Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] trucks a/c On Thu, May 27, 2010 at 9:47 AM, Pat Horne wrote: > I have no experience with it personally, but it is my understanding that > Freeze 12 is colder than R-134a IN A R-12 SYSTEM. It does not require a > license to buy, at least here in Texas. I have no idea what is required to > convert from R-134a back to Freeze 12. I suspect the oil would need to be > changed and the system cleaned out. He doesn't have an r12 system that's been converted. He's got an R134a system that doesn't work right. Take it to shop that knows what they're doing. Insuffecient refrigerant charge is the usual culprit for this. Did they evacuate the system and refill it? Of just stick gauges on it and say "yup, it works."? -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rs1121 at earthlink.net From rs1121 at earthlink.net Thu May 27 12:09:38 2010 From: rs1121 at earthlink.net (Ron Schmittou) Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 13:09:38 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] trucks a/c In-Reply-To: <4BFE87B8.6080706@justbrits.com> References: <20100527092112.QIF6Q.3886459.root@mp08> <4BFE87B8.6080706@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <002901cafdc7$c5d5e8d0$5181ba70$@net> Ok - I have to ask what is the connection between brits and el caminos, as you are like the third person (besides me) who is nuts about brit cars and el caminos (really miss my 65!) Tony please don't tell anyone on the lotus list of my secret obsession C-Ya Ron S -----Original Message----- From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Shop at " Just Brits " Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 9:55 AM To: Shop Talk Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] trucks a/c And that's a fact I am WELL versed as my daily drivers for past 18 or 19 years have been '70 El Caminos both factory A/C equipped and "converted" . Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com [where both Caminos may be seen - 1 in "Car F/S"] _______________________________________________ From dmscheidt at gmail.com Thu May 27 12:28:40 2010 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 14:28:40 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] trucks a/c In-Reply-To: <002801cafdc6$c78478a0$568d69e0$@net> References: <20100527092112.QIF6Q.3886459.root@mp08> <4BFE76A3.9070108@comcast.net> <4BFE7805.4070600@hornesystemstx.com> <002801cafdc6$c78478a0$568d69e0$@net> Message-ID: On Thu, May 27, 2010 at 2:02 PM, Ron Schmittou wrote: > What was the year of the changeover - I can't remember. > Calendar year 1995. (some cars really did switch in the middle of the model year.) But lots of '93 and '94 cars are R134a, depending on the make and model. GM was using R134a in MY94, but maybe not universally. A proper change in production requires some re-engineering of the AC system, to adjust to the slightly lower cooling capacity of R134a, so it probably wasn't done all at once. -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com From pj_thomas at comcast.net Thu May 27 13:00:16 2010 From: pj_thomas at comcast.net (Peter J. Thomas) Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 15:00:16 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Thread Repair Message-ID: <4BFEC140.9030207@comcast.net> My washing machine's transmission died so I ordered a "new" one online, though not really sure it's new. The transmission has a threaded steel shaft, 1-1/8x12 I think, that a threaded aluminum flange treads onto to hold the basket. I believe the threads on the shaft are bad/damaged. I have two of the flanges. Both thread on the old transmission without any problem but both stop abruptly a the same spot on the shaft of the "new" transmission. Quick inspection with the "new" transmission installed in the carcass of the washing machine I don't see anything obvious with the threads. I'm faced with a three options: send it back with a couple of weeks of turn around (and trips to a laundry mat), order a die hoping I sized it correctly, or "fix" the threads. I would rather fix it and the correct method is to use a die but don't think I can buy one local without ordering. Dies this size are not cheap. The other option is to pull the transmission and file down the bad thread. I'm pretty sure the problem is localized midway down the shaft (about I figure someone on this list with a LBC has had to deal with with a hard to replace part with damaged threads. Any suggestions/advice? Peter T. From pethier at comcast.net Thu May 27 13:03:27 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 19:03:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] trucks a/c In-Reply-To: <002901cafdc7$c5d5e8d0$5181ba70$@net> Message-ID: <1984085848.2031421274987007383.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- "Ron Schmittou" wrote: > Ok - I have to ask what is the connection between brits and el > caminos, as > you are like the third person (besides me) who is nuts about brit cars > and > el caminos (really miss my 65!) > > Tony please don't tell anyone on the lotus list of my secret obsession Too late. We are already here. I rememeber that back in the day Steve Magnone, who ran "The Book" (a road-racing and britcar supply) in Minneapolis, had a Rover and other britcars. And a tricked-out El Camino. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 1979 Caterham Super Seven 2004 Suburban 8.1 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com From pethier at comcast.net Thu May 27 13:09:21 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 19:09:21 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] trucks a/c In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <518341915.2034481274987361484.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- "David Scheidt" wrote: > From: "David Scheidt" > To: "Ron Schmittou" > Cc: "Shop Talk" > Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 1:28:40 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] trucks a/c > > On Thu, May 27, 2010 at 2:02 PM, Ron Schmittou > wrote: > > What was the year of the changeover - I can't remember. > > > > Calendar year 1995. (some cars really did switch in the middle of > the > model year.) But lots of '93 and '94 cars are R134a, depending on > the > make and model. GM was using R134a in MY94, but maybe not > universally. A proper change in production requires some > re-engineering of the AC system, to adjust to the slightly lower > cooling capacity of R134a, so it probably wasn't done all at once. Two data points: My 1994 Mazda Miata had 134 AC from the factory. I believe that Saturn saw the change coming and built the AC big enough to take it. My 1992 Saturn SL2 was built as R12, but a fairly-inexpensive 134 conversion at the Saturn dealer gave me ice-cold AC. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 1979 Caterham Super Seven 2004 Suburban 8.1 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com From strovato at optonline.net Thu May 27 13:19:19 2010 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 15:19:19 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Thread Repair In-Reply-To: <4BFEC140.9030207@comcast.net> References: <4BFEC140.9030207@comcast.net> Message-ID: <0L3300G9EF0HFZV0@mta6.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> I'm not sure what you meant about filing down the bad thread, but there are thread files made for cleaning up threads. They are a lot cheaper than large dies and all you have to match is the pitch, not the diameter. I guess step one is to pull the transmission as you have to do that anyway. If you can see damaged threads, then hitting them with a thread file seems like a reasonable idea. The couple of week scenario doesn't sound too pleasant. -Steve At 03:00 PM 5/27/2010, Peter J. Thomas wrote: >My washing machine's transmission died so I ordered a "new" one >online, though not really sure it's new. The transmission has a >threaded steel shaft, 1-1/8x12 I think, that a threaded aluminum >flange treads onto to hold the basket. I believe the threads on the >shaft are bad/damaged. I have two of the flanges. Both thread on >the old transmission without any problem but both stop abruptly a >the same spot on the shaft of the "new" transmission. Quick >inspection with the "new" transmission installed in the carcass of >the washing machine I don't see anything obvious with the threads. > >I'm faced with a three options: send it back with a couple of weeks >of turn around (and trips to a laundry mat), order a die hoping I >sized it correctly, or "fix" the threads. I would rather fix it and >the correct method is to use a die but don't think I can buy one >local without ordering. Dies this size are not cheap. The other >option is to pull the transmission and file down the bad >thread. I'm pretty sure the problem is localized midway down the shaft (about > >I figure someone on this list with a LBC has had to deal with with a >hard to replace part with damaged threads. Any suggestions/advice? > >Peter T. >_______________________________________________ > >Shop-talk at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.96 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/strovato at optonline.net From bjshov8 at tx.rr.com Thu May 27 13:33:13 2010 From: bjshov8 at tx.rr.com (bjshov8 at tx.rr.com) Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 15:33:13 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Thread Repair In-Reply-To: <0L3300G9EF0HFZV0@mta6.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Message-ID: <20100527193313.U4HO5.611279.root@cdptpa-web16-z02> First make sure the thread pitch is exactly the same on both transmissions. If so then look for thread problems with the new shaft. If you see them you could even touch up the threads with a small triangular file. If you don't see anything with the new shaft then look at the threads inside of your flange. Maybe the new shaft is trying to go deeper into the threads or somehow the end of the shaft is shaped differently from the old shaft. > >My washing machine's transmission died so I ordered a "new" one > >online, though not really sure it's new. The transmission has a > >threaded steel shaft, 1-1/8x12 I think, that a threaded aluminum > >flange treads onto to hold the basket. I believe the threads on the > >shaft are bad/damaged. I have two of the flanges. Both thread on > >the old transmission without any problem but both stop abruptly a > >the same spot on the shaft of the "new" transmission. Quick > >inspection with the "new" transmission installed in the carcass of > >the washing machine I don't see anything obvious with the threads. > > > >I'm faced with a three options: send it back with a couple of weeks > >of turn around (and trips to a laundry mat), order a die hoping I > >sized it correctly, or "fix" the threads. I would rather fix it and > >the correct method is to use a die but don't think I can buy one > >local without ordering. Dies this size are not cheap. The other > >option is to pull the transmission and file down the bad > >thread. I'm pretty sure the problem is localized midway down the shaft (about > > > >I figure someone on this list with a LBC has had to deal with with a > >hard to replace part with damaged threads. Any suggestions/advice? > > > >Peter T. > >_______________________________________________ > > > >Shop-talk at autox.team.net > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Suggested annual donation $12.96 > >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >Unsubscribe/Manage: > >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/strovato at optonline.net > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjshov8 at tx.rr.com From pj_thomas at comcast.net Thu May 27 14:08:14 2010 From: pj_thomas at comcast.net (Peter J. Thomas) Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 16:08:14 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Thread Repair In-Reply-To: <20100527193313.U4HO5.611279.root@cdptpa-web16-z02> References: <20100527193313.U4HO5.611279.root@cdptpa-web16-z02> Message-ID: <4BFED12E.2090307@comcast.net> On 5/27/2010 3:33 PM, bjshov8 at tx.rr.com wrote: > First make sure the thread pitch is exactly the same on both transmissions. > I have the original flange from the old transmission and a new flange that came with the new transmission. Both flanges spin effortlessly on the old transmission the full thread length about 3 inches. The flanges only have about one inch of thread. So it's not a mismatch. > If so then look for thread problems with the new shaft. If you see them you could even touch up the threads with a small triangular file. If you don't see anything with the new shaft then look at the threads inside of your flange. Maybe the new shaft is trying to go deeper into the threads or somehow the end of the shaft is shaped differently from the old shaft. > I'm pretty sure the it's the thread mid way on the new shaft. Both flanges fully thread onto the new shaft fully but stop at the same point. I also tried the the flanges reversed, same thing. One the old shaft they spin effortlessly the entire length of the shaft. Looking at the threads in the aluminum flange there is a wear spot so I suspect the threads on the shafted were banged and bent. Worse could be the shaft is bent but it does not appear to be. The shaft in question is actually a tube with another inside that spins freely, so I guessing it's not bent. I'm going to try the triangle file, if I can find mine. Thanks, Peter T. > > >>> My washing machine's transmission died so I ordered a "new" one >>> online, though not really sure it's new. The transmission has a >>> threaded steel shaft, 1-1/8x12 I think, that a threaded aluminum >>> flange treads onto to hold the basket. I believe the threads on the >>> shaft are bad/damaged. I have two of the flanges. Both thread on >>> the old transmission without any problem but both stop abruptly a >>> the same spot on the shaft of the "new" transmission. Quick >>> inspection with the "new" transmission installed in the carcass of >>> the washing machine I don't see anything obvious with the threads. >>> >>> I'm faced with a three options: send it back with a couple of weeks >>> of turn around (and trips to a laundry mat), order a die hoping I >>> sized it correctly, or "fix" the threads. I would rather fix it and >>> the correct method is to use a die but don't think I can buy one >>> local without ordering. Dies this size are not cheap. The other >>> option is to pull the transmission and file down the bad >>> thread. I'm pretty sure the problem is localized midway down the shaft (about >>> >>> I figure someone on this list with a LBC has had to deal with with a >>> hard to replace part with damaged threads. Any suggestions/advice? >>> >>> Peter T. >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/strovato at optonline.net >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjshov8 at tx.rr.com >> > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_thomas at comcast.net From pj_thomas at comcast.net Thu May 27 14:51:38 2010 From: pj_thomas at comcast.net (Peter J. Thomas) Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 16:51:38 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Thread Repair In-Reply-To: <0L3300G9EF0HFZV0@mta6.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> References: <4BFEC140.9030207@comcast.net> <0L3300G9EF0HFZV0@mta6.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Message-ID: <4BFEDB5A.1080200@comcast.net> On 5/27/2010 3:19 PM, Steven Trovato wrote: > I'm not sure what you meant about filing down the bad thread, but > there are thread files made for cleaning up threads. They are a lot > cheaper than large dies and all you have to match is the pitch, not > the diameter. I guess step one is to pull the transmission as you > have to do that anyway. If you can see damaged threads, then hitting > them with a thread file seems like a reasonable idea. Are these files readily available or would I have to order one? > The couple of week scenario doesn't sound too pleasant. No it doesn't. I could live with it but the significant other will make it unbearable. Very late last night I contemplated just using the angle grinder to remove the offending section of thread (its in the middle and wouldn't matter) but thought I would query the list. Peter T. > > -Steve > > At 03:00 PM 5/27/2010, Peter J. Thomas wrote: >> My washing machine's transmission died so I ordered a "new" one >> online, though not really sure it's new. The transmission has a >> threaded steel shaft, 1-1/8x12 I think, that a threaded aluminum >> flange treads onto to hold the basket. I believe the threads on the >> shaft are bad/damaged. I have two of the flanges. Both thread on >> the old transmission without any problem but both stop abruptly a the >> same spot on the shaft of the "new" transmission. Quick inspection >> with the "new" transmission installed in the carcass of the washing >> machine I don't see anything obvious with the threads. >> >> I'm faced with a three options: send it back with a couple of weeks >> of turn around (and trips to a laundry mat), order a die hoping I >> sized it correctly, or "fix" the threads. I would rather fix it and >> the correct method is to use a die but don't think I can buy one >> local without ordering. Dies this size are not cheap. The other >> option is to pull the transmission and file down the bad thread. I'm >> pretty sure the problem is localized midway down the shaft (about >> >> I figure someone on this list with a LBC has had to deal with with a >> hard to replace part with damaged threads. Any suggestions/advice? >> >> Peter T. >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/strovato at optonline.net From shop at justbrits.com Thu May 27 15:12:42 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 16:12:42 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Thread Repair In-Reply-To: <4BFEDB5A.1080200@comcast.net> References: <4BFEC140.9030207@comcast.net> <0L3300G9EF0HFZV0@mta6.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> <4BFEDB5A.1080200@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4BFEE04A.2070204@justbrits.com> << Are these files readily available or would I have to order one? >> Would an Ace Hardware Store be deemed "readily available", Peter ?? Both 'types' of files should be in stock. Thread "cleaner" types generally come in TWO [2] types; fine & coarse. Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com [with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the ..For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.] [NOTE Jensen taillight is back]. From ejrussell at mebtel.net Thu May 27 15:34:06 2010 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell) Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 17:34:06 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] trucks a/c In-Reply-To: <20100527092112.QIF6Q.3886459.root@mp08> References: <20100527092112.QIF6Q.3886459.root@mp08> Message-ID: One thing I have not seen mentioned is whether the A/C blows through or is otherwise associated with the heater core. Is the heater really 'off'? On my '99 F250 I installed an aftermarket valve (vacuum operated) to shut off all coolant flow through the heater core when the dash control is moved to 'max A/C'. Otherwise, coolant always flows through the heater core and the A/C is ducted immediately adjacent to the heater core. Eric Russell Mebane, NC http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell From pj_thomas at comcast.net Thu May 27 16:06:52 2010 From: pj_thomas at comcast.net (Peter J. Thomas) Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 18:06:52 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Thread Repair In-Reply-To: <4BFEE04A.2070204@justbrits.com> References: <4BFEC140.9030207@comcast.net> <0L3300G9EF0HFZV0@mta6.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> <4BFEDB5A.1080200@comcast.net> <4BFEE04A.2070204@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <4BFEECFC.3030007@comcast.net> On 5/27/2010 5:12 PM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > << Are these files readily available or would I have to order one? >> > > Would an Ace Hardware Store be deemed "readily > available", Peter ?? > > Both 'types' of files should be in stock. Thread > "cleaner" types generally come in TWO [2] types; > fine & coarse. > > Ed Thanks, though most of the ace places around here have closed, put out of business by big box stores. If Ace has them I sure autoparts store should also. An update. I think there is some corrosion in the valleys of the thread. I folded a piece of emery can cleaned the suspect thread and it seems to have helped, not fixed though, the problem. Peter T. > Please visit MY site at: > www.justbrits.com > [with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the > ..For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.] > [NOTE Jensen taillight is back]. > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_thomas at comcast.net From strovato at optonline.net Thu May 27 18:07:02 2010 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 20:07:02 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Thread Repair In-Reply-To: <4BFEDB5A.1080200@comcast.net> References: <4BFEC140.9030207@comcast.net> <0L3300G9EF0HFZV0@mta6.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> <4BFEDB5A.1080200@comcast.net> Message-ID: <0L3300LH1SCIFH70@mta6.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> I would think you would be able to find them locally. The ones I have are square, with different thread pitch on each face. You pick the side that matches and use that. KD Tool makes one. Check auto parts stores. Amazon also has them. Search for "thread file". -Steve At 04:51 PM 5/27/2010, Peter J. Thomas wrote: >Are these files readily available or would I have to order one? From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu May 27 18:14:37 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 17:14:37 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Thread Repair In-Reply-To: <4BFED12E.2090307@comcast.net> References: <20100527193313.U4HO5.611279.root@cdptpa-web16-z02> <4BFED12E.2090307@comcast.net> Message-ID: <027401cafdfa$c2ac6610$48053230$@rr.com> > I have the original flange from the old transmission and a new flange > that came with the new transmission. Both flanges spin effortlessly on > the old transmission the full thread length about 3 inches. The > flanges > only have about one inch of thread. So it's not a mismatch. Actually, all that proves is that the new flange has the correct thread (same as the old one). This wouldn't be the first time that some off-shore manufacturer has used a metric "approximation" that wasn't good enough and the flange was undoubtedly made on a different machine. If it didn't come assembled, then it's a safe bet that it has never been assembled. > I'm going to try the triangle file, if I can find mine. Definitely worth a try. Something that might help is to clean the area in question, and then rub black magic marker on it (or machinist's dye if you have some). Then try to spin the flange onto it. You should see a bright spot where it is binding. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu May 27 18:51:17 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 17:51:17 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Thread Repair In-Reply-To: <0L3300LH1SCIFH70@mta6.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> References: <4BFEC140.9030207@comcast.net> <0L3300G9EF0HFZV0@mta6.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> <4BFEDB5A.1080200@comcast.net> <0L3300LH1SCIFH70@mta6.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Message-ID: <028401cafdff$e207a4c0$a616ee40$@rr.com> > >Are these files readily available or would I have to order one? Sears has them too (at least the one near my house). Don't recall the price on the pair of files, but they also had a nice set with two files plus a bunch of rethreading taps and dies (both SAE & metric) for about $60 (cheaper than shown on the web site). -- Randall From pj_thomas at comcast.net Thu May 27 19:42:50 2010 From: pj_thomas at comcast.net (Peter J. Thomas) Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 21:42:50 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Thread Repair In-Reply-To: <027401cafdfa$c2ac6610$48053230$@rr.com> References: <20100527193313.U4HO5.611279.root@cdptpa-web16-z02> <4BFED12E.2090307@comcast.net> <027401cafdfa$c2ac6610$48053230$@rr.com> Message-ID: <4BFF1F9A.10906@comcast.net> On 5/27/2010 8:14 PM, Randall wrote: >> I have the original flange from the old transmission and a new flange >> that came with the new transmission. Both flanges spin effortlessly on >> the old transmission the full thread length about 3 inches. The >> flanges >> only have about one inch of thread. So it's not a mismatch. >> > Actually, all that proves is that the new flange has the correct thread > (same as the old one). This wouldn't be the first time that some off-shore > manufacturer has used a metric "approximation" that wasn't good enough and > the flange was undoubtedly made on a different machine. If it didn't come > assembled, then it's a safe bet that it has never been assembled. > Correct that it wasn't assembled. I was surprised to find the flange in the shipment. It wasn't supposed to be there and if it was it should have had another piece to go with it. It slightly different, and won't work with the existing parts. I don't think it was a manufacturing error, both flanges spin on the new transmission just like the old transmission until you hit a band of thread mid way down the shaft. It looks like there is a some rust in the problem threads. I held a triangle file lightly in the valley of the threads and turned the transmission letting the file follow the threads. A couple of passes it spins on correctly. Peter T. > >> I'm going to try the triangle file, if I can find mine. >> > Definitely worth a try. Something that might help is to clean the area in > question, and then rub black magic marker on it (or machinist's dye if you > have some). Then try to spin the flange onto it. You should see a bright > spot where it is binding. > > -- Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_thomas at comcast.net From mbarre at juno.com Thu May 27 19:43:21 2010 From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt) Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 01:43:21 GMT Subject: [Shop-talk] Thread Repair Message-ID: <20100527.214321.25822.0@webmail12.vgs.untd.com> I wonder if it would be worth checking with a couple of machine shops to see if they have the correct size die and could run it through for you? Matt ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "Peter J. Thomas" To: Steven Trovato Cc: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Thread Repair Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 16:51:38 -0400 On 5/27/2010 3:19 PM, Steven Trovato wrote: > I'm not sure what you meant about filing down the bad thread, but > there are thread files made for cleaning up threads. They are a lot > cheaper than large dies and all you have to match is the pitch, not > the diameter. I guess step one is to pull the transmission as you > have to do that anyway. If you can see damaged threads, then hitting > them with a thread file seems like a reasonable idea. Are these files readily available or would I have to order one? > The couple of week scenario doesn't sound too pleasant. No it doesn't. I could live with it but the significant other will make it unbearable. Very late last night I contemplated just using the angle grinder to remove the offending section of thread (its in the middle and wouldn't matter) but thought I would query the list. Peter T. > > -Steve > > At 03:00 PM 5/27/2010, Peter J. Thomas wrote: >> My washing machine's transmission died so I ordered a "new" one >> online, though not really sure it's new. The transmission has a >> threaded steel shaft, 1-1/8x12 I think, that a threaded aluminum >> flange treads onto to hold the basket. I believe the threads on the >> shaft are bad/damaged. I have two of the flanges. Both thread on >> the old transmission without any problem but both stop abruptly a the >> same spot on the shaft of the "new" transmission. Quick inspection >> with the "new" transmission installed in the carcass of the washing >> machine I don't see anything obvious with the threads. >> >> I'm faced with a three options: send it back with a couple of weeks >> of turn around (and trips to a laundry mat), order a die hoping I >> sized it correctly, or "fix" the threads. I would rather fix it and >> the correct method is to use a die but don't think I can buy one >> local without ordering. Dies this size are not cheap. The other >> option is to pull the transmission and file down the bad thread. I'm >> pretty sure the problem is localized midway down the shaft (about >> >> I figure someone on this list with a LBC has had to deal with with a >> hard to replace part with damaged threads. Any suggestions/advice? >> >> Peter T. >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/strovato at optonline.net _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mbarre at juno.com ____________________________________________________________ Penny Stock Jumping 2000% Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4bff1ffb266c2b4160st04vuc From mark at bradakis.com Thu May 27 21:05:22 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 21:05:22 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Thread Repair In-Reply-To: <4BFF1F9A.10906@comcast.net> References: <20100527193313.U4HO5.611279.root@cdptpa-web16-z02> <4BFED12E.2090307@comcast.net> <027401cafdfa$c2ac6610$48053230$@rr.com> <4BFF1F9A.10906@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4BFF32F2.5040001@bradakis.com> When I was working at Bailey's on old British iron I often had need of thread repair tasks. Years ago Mike had purchased a Mac thread repair kit that covered common automobile sizes in coarse and fine. He says he's hardly ever used it over the years, I used it on almost a daily basis. The stuff in the kit would not cut threads, but it would clean them up. If I had any money for tools right now, maybe I'd offer to buy it from him. Clean, smooth running threads always make reassembly better. mjb. From jblair1948 at cox.net Fri May 28 16:24:00 2010 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 18:24:00 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Free Concert in NY, OH, PA Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20100528182053.04701b30@cox.net> Hey gang, As you know, my son is in the Army Field Band. Well they are going on the road again starting the end of June. The schedule is below. So if you can try and get out to see the concert. I've been to at least 3 of them and they are fantastic!!! John ---------- Bensalem, PA - June 23 - 7:00 PM T.D. Bank Amphitheater , For information call 301-677-6586. Williamsport, PA - June 24 - 7:30 PM Community Arts Center , For information call 570-326-1551 Elizabethtown, PA - June 25 - 7:00 PM Formal Gardens , For information call 301-677-6586. Latrobe, PA - June 26 - 7:30 PM Greater Latrobe Senior High School Auditorium , For information call 301-677-6586. Chautauqua, NY - June 27 -2:30 PM Chautauqua Amphitheater , For information call 301-677-6586. Franklin, PA - June 28 - 7:30 PM South Park Bandstand , For information call 301-677-6586. Springfield, OH - June 29 - 8:00 PM Veteran's Park Amphitheater , For information call 301-677-6586. Sandusky, OH - June 30 - 7:30 PM Sandusky High School Auditorium , For information call 301-677-6586. Medina, OH - July 1 - 7:00 PM Medina Performing Arts Center , For information call 330-636-3400 Wooster, OH - July 2 - 7:00 PM Public Square , For information call 301-677-6586. Boardman, OH - July 3 - 8:00 PM Boardman Park - Maag Outdoor Theatre , For information call 301-677-6586. Pittsburgh, PA - July 4 - 8:00 PM Point State Park Main Stage , For information call 301-677-6586. -------------- John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From jandkstone99 at msn.com Fri May 28 19:20:50 2010 From: jandkstone99 at msn.com (Jim Stone) Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 20:20:50 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Musty seats Message-ID: I was recently given a set of Fiat 124 Spider seats that I am thinking about recovering for use in a Alpine hot rod I am building. The upholstery is completely shot, but they are complete and appear to be salvageable. From what I can see, the foam is damaged but repairable and usable. Except they stink! I think it is just mildew that has permeated the foam. I don't mind spending the $300 or so to recover them, but the costs would escalate past what they are worth to me if I started screwing around with new foam. Is there a reliable way to get the stink out of seats that have seen better days? Thanks. _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with Hotmail. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832 6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4 From ejrussell at mebtel.net Fri May 28 19:36:58 2010 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell) Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 21:36:58 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Musty seats In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Air them out well, spray them liberally with Febreze? Eric Russell Mebane, NC http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Stone" To: Sent: Friday, May 28, 2010 9:20 PM Subject: [Shop-talk] Musty seats >I was recently given a set of Fiat 124 Spider seats that I am thinking >about > recovering for use in a Alpine hot rod I am building. The upholstery is > completely shot, but they are complete and appear to be salvageable. From > what I can see, the foam is damaged but repairable and usable. Except > they > stink! > I think it is just mildew that has permeated the foam. I don't mind > spending the $300 or so to recover them, but the costs would escalate > past what they are worth to me if I started screwing around with new > foam. Is there a reliable way to get the stink out of seats that have > seen better days? > > Thanks. From jandkstone99 at msn.com Sat May 29 08:50:16 2010 From: jandkstone99 at msn.com (Jim Stone) Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 09:50:16 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Musty seats In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: That was my first thought, but I didn't know how well Febreze worked on foam rubber. I was also concerned about the effects of the sun directly on the foam. But, I certainly can't use them as is, so I'll give it a try. > From: ejrussell at mebtel.net > To: jandkstone99 at msn.com; shop-talk at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Musty seats > Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 21:36:58 -0400 > > Air them out well, spray them liberally with Febreze? > > Eric Russell > Mebane, NC > http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jim Stone" > To: > Sent: Friday, May 28, 2010 9:20 PM > Subject: [Shop-talk] Musty seats > > > >I was recently given a set of Fiat 124 Spider seats that I am thinking > >about > > recovering for use in a Alpine hot rod I am building. The upholstery is > > completely shot, but they are complete and appear to be salvageable. From > > what I can see, the foam is damaged but repairable and usable. Except > > they > > stink! > > I think it is just mildew that has permeated the foam. I don't mind > > spending the $300 or so to recover them, but the costs would escalate > > past what they are worth to me if I started screwing around with new > > foam. Is there a reliable way to get the stink out of seats that have > > seen better days? > > > > Thanks. > _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2 From ejrussell at mebtel.net Sat May 29 09:16:30 2010 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell) Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 11:16:30 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Musty seats In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: <601C4B6171FB43A4861C6687478F9A59@EricJRussellPC> Assuming you can/will take the seats apart, run the seat foams through a washing machine. Perhaps at the laundromat? I'd be leery about bleach - not sure how that would affect the foam. Avoid the dryer - might be too hot. Just let them air dry with lots of air circulation. Or talk to an auto upholstery shop. They can either tell you how to clean them or give you a price to replace the foams. Eric Russell Mebane, NC http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell ----- Original Message ----- From: Jim Stone To: ejrussell at mebtel.net ; shop-talk at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, May 29, 2010 10:50 AM Subject: RE: [Shop-talk] Musty seats That was my first thought, but I didn't know how well Febreze worked on foam rubber. I was also concerned about the effects of the sun directly on the foam. But, I certainly can't use them as is, so I'll give it a try. > From: ejrussell at mebtel.net > To: jandkstone99 at msn.com; shop-talk at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Musty seats > Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 21:36:58 -0400 > > Air them out well, spray them liberally with Febreze? > > Eric Russell > Mebane, NC > http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jim Stone" > To: > Sent: Friday, May 28, 2010 9:20 PM > Subject: [Shop-talk] Musty seats > > > >I was recently given a set of Fiat 124 Spider seats that I am thinking > >about > > recovering for use in a Alpine hot rod I am building. The upholstery is > > completely shot, but they are complete and appear to be salvageable. From > > what I can see, the foam is damaged but repairable and usable. Except > > they > > stink! > > I think it is just mildew that has permeated the foam. I don't mind > > spending the $300 or so to recover them, but the costs would escalate > > past what they are worth to me if I started screwing around with new > > foam. Is there a reliable way to get the stink out of seats that have > > seen better days? > > > > Thanks. From shop at justbrits.com Sat May 29 10:23:04 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 11:23:04 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Musty seats In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: <4C013F68.3040100@justbrits.com> << I was also concerned about the effects of the sun directly on the foam. >> Ditto, Jim. I also am not sure of the Washing Machine idea!! Hand washing could do nothing [ IMNSHO ] to the foams but help. LOL !! After that, what *I* would & have done [in fact do a LOT] is to get four (4) - guessing you have 4 separate pcs of foam - Dry Cleaner Wire Hangers. I cut the 'hanging hook' off just below the really TIGHT twist where 2 ends meet. Straighten ALL 'bends' out so that basically you have a 36" piece of HEAVY wire. Poke thru the appropriate place on each foam and slightly bend the end up [foam can't slide of] - bend other side 90 degreeish and at other end form a 'hook' that will fit say a garage rafter, a piece of elec. conduit or water or gas or etc. PIPE and hang foams up to dry. Then leave alone for a couple days or how even long it takes for them to air-dry out. Dry Cleaner Hangers are on of my favourite "tools" [and CHEAP too as I steal from wife's dry cleaning - LOL !!]. Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com [with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.] From jandkstone99 at msn.com Sat May 29 15:47:36 2010 From: jandkstone99 at msn.com (Jim Stone) Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 16:47:36 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Musty seats In-Reply-To: <601C4B6171FB43A4861C6687478F9A59@EricJRussellPC> References: , , <601C4B6171FB43A4861C6687478F9A59@EricJRussellPC> Message-ID: I would never have considered washing them, but why not? I'll give it a try if the Fabreeze doesn't do the trick. From: ejrussell at mebtel.net To: jandkstone99 at msn.com; shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Musty seats Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 11:16:30 -0400 Assuming you can/will take the seats apart, run the seat foams through a washing machine. Perhaps at the laundromat? I'd be leery about bleach - not sure how that would affect the foam. Avoid the dryer - might be too hot. Just let them air dry with lots of air circulation. Or talk to an auto upholstery shop. They can either tell you how to clean them or give you a price to replace the foams. Eric Russell Mebane, NC http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell ----- Original Message ----- From: Jim Stone To: ejrussell at mebtel.net ; shop-talk at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, May 29, 2010 10:50 AM Subject: RE: [Shop-talk] Musty seats That was my first thought, but I didn't know how well Febreze worked on foam rubber. I was also concerned about the effects of the sun directly on the foam. But, I certainly can't use them as is, so I'll give it a try. > From: ejrussell at mebtel.net > To: jandkstone99 at msn.com; shop-talk at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Musty seats > Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 21:36:58 -0400 > > Air them out well, spray them liberally with Febreze? > > Eric Russell > Mebane, NC > http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jim Stone" > To: > Sent: Friday, May 28, 2010 9:20 PM > Subject: [Shop-talk] Musty seats > > > >I was recently given a set of Fiat 124 Spider seats that I am thinking > >about > > recovering for use in a Alpine hot rod I am building. The upholstery is > > completely shot, but they are complete and appear to be salvageable. From > > what I can see, the foam is damaged but repairable and usable. Except > > they > > stink! > > I think it is just mildew that has permeated the foam. I don't mind > > spending the $300 or so to recover them, but the costs would escalate > > past what they are worth to me if I started screwing around with new > > foam. Is there a reliable way to get the stink out of seats that have > > seen better days? > > > > Thanks. _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 From jandkstone99 at msn.com Sat May 29 17:03:23 2010 From: jandkstone99 at msn.com (Jim Stone) Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 18:03:23 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] [zzzzzzzzShop-talk] Musty seats In-Reply-To: <4C018F47.3000808@justbrits.com> References: , , <601C4B6171FB43A4861C6687478F9A59@EricJRussellPC> , <4C018F47.3000808@justbrits.com> Message-ID: This is a good discussion and it made me realize that the obvious thing to do was to Google "washing foam rubber". There are multiple hits and several recommendations on using a washing machine. But, the general consensus seems to be to do it by hand, in a large laundry tub or bathtub. Some of the foam on these cushions was exposed to the elements due to the vinyl peeling away, so the washing machine could be a little rough on those spots. I will probably try doing it by hand, although I suspect it will be a royal PITA. As always, thanks for the advice! Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 17:03:51 -0500 From: shop at justbrits.com To: jandkstone99 at msn.com Subject: Re: [zzzzzzzzShop-talk] Musty seats << ....but why not? >> Jim, as I said this AM: Ditto, Jim. I also am not sure of the Washing Machine idea!! I "might" be tempt to try it if machine has an Extra Fragile [or something like it] but personally I would be VERY worried about the agitation of the machine VS foams !!! It just "bothers" me !! Not even sure why !! LOL See rest of List Post !! Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com [with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.] _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with Hotmail. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID283 26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5 From dmscheidt at gmail.com Sat May 29 18:38:35 2010 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 20:38:35 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] [zzzzzzzzShop-talk] Musty seats In-Reply-To: References: <601C4B6171FB43A4861C6687478F9A59@EricJRussellPC> <4C018F47.3000808@justbrits.com> Message-ID: On Sat, May 29, 2010 at 7:03 PM, Jim Stone wrote: > This is a good discussion and it made me realize that the obvious thing to do > was to Google "washing foam rubber". One thing that make a difference is whether they're closed-cell or open cell foam. Open cell foam has cells that have holes in them (sponges are the common example.) Closed cell foam has cells that don't. If you've got open cell foam, you're probably SOL. You won't be able to kill mildew if it's inside with out damaging the foam. If it's closed cell, the mildew should be contained on the surface (including any holes, such as for mounting hardware.), and you can wash it away. Both sorts of foam are used in car seats (sometimes in combination). -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com From jandkstone99 at msn.com Sat May 29 21:40:01 2010 From: jandkstone99 at msn.com (Jim Stone) Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 22:40:01 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] [zzzzzzzzShop-talk] Musty seats In-Reply-To: References: , , , <601C4B6171FB43A4861C6687478F9A59@EricJRussellPC>, , <4C018F47.3000808@justbrits.com>, , Message-ID: Thanks David. I will take a good look at them tomorrow, but I suspect you are right about there being both kinds of foam in there. The seats were given to me, so it is no great loss if I can't salvage them. > Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 20:38:35 -0400 > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] [zzzzzzzzShop-talk] Musty seats > From: dmscheidt at gmail.com > To: jandkstone99 at msn.com > CC: shop-talk at autox.team.net > > On Sat, May 29, 2010 at 7:03 PM, Jim Stone wrote: > > This is a good discussion and it made me realize that the obvious thing to do > > was to Google "washing foam rubber". > > One thing that make a difference is whether they're closed-cell or > open cell foam. Open cell foam has cells that have holes in them > (sponges are the common example.) Closed cell foam has cells that > don't. If you've got open cell foam, you're probably SOL. You won't > be able to kill mildew if it's inside with out damaging the foam. If > it's closed cell, the mildew should be contained on the surface > (including any holes, such as for mounting hardware.), and you can > wash it away. Both sorts of foam are used in car seats (sometimes in > combination). > > > -- > David Scheidt > dmscheidt at gmail.com _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with Hotmail. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID283 26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5 From nogera2 at att.net Sat May 29 22:25:28 2010 From: nogera2 at att.net (nogera2 at att.net) Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 23:25:28 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] MIG welding Aluminum Message-ID: I'm restoring an aluminum bodied car and have some tears in the aluminum. I have a Hobart 135 MIG welder that has worked nicely for me on steel panels but my tank is a carbon dioxide tank not Argon. Before I invest in an Argon tank, is welding .050 aluminum with a MIG welder going to be about like welding 22 g steel or am I likely to screw up the panels? The tears are all less than a inch long. FWIW the price of the Argon tank will be about what I would have to pay a local shop to do the welding but I prefer doing it myself if possible. Thanks in advance for any information Bob Nogueira From shop at justbrits.com Sun May 30 18:24:23 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sun, 30 May 2010 19:24:23 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Funny wrench request In-Reply-To: <009c01caf86a$279fdb10$76df9130$@rr.com> References: <009c01caf86a$279fdb10$76df9130$@rr.com> Message-ID: <4C0301B7.3000700@justbrits.com> On 5/20 Randall penned: "What I'm looking for is a ratcheting wrench that has a similar offset. Anyone know of something like that?" And I had mentioned I had something that might help, so please see "Various Articles" on my site for Ratchet Wrench Set. Ed From cavanadd at verizon.net Mon May 31 12:35:12 2010 From: cavanadd at verizon.net (David C.) Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 11:35:12 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Hauling a big planer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C040160.6080505@verizon.net> I should be picking up a Powermatic 180 thickness planer sometime in the next month. According to the info on the web, the uncrated weight, with motor, should be around 1150 pounds. I have a 2004 GMC Sierra 2WD 1/2 ton, extra cab pickup with a 6 foot bed and towing package. About all it gets used for these days is hauling old tools (and boards). I moved a Delta 12/14 table saw from Gig Harbor to Snohomish (about 100 miles) with no problems, and a G4003 engine lathe with stand (about 1300 pounds total) from Bellingham to Snohomish, about 85 miles, again with no problems. The catch is that the PM 180 is in North Dakota, about 1100 miles away. There are also a few mountain ranges between here and North Dakota, a situation I didn't encounter in my trips up and down I-5 to Gig Harbor and Bellingham. So, the question is, should I rent a UHaul one way in N.D., or should I be good to go just strapping the planer down in the truck bed? The biggest drawback I can see to the trailer option (other than the added cost) is that it's one more thing to break down, and there are a lot of wide open spaces in Montana to cross..... From dmscheidt at gmail.com Mon May 31 13:24:09 2010 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 15:24:09 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Hauling a big planer In-Reply-To: <4C040160.6080505@verizon.net> References: <4C040160.6080505@verizon.net> Message-ID: On Mon, May 31, 2010 at 2:35 PM, David C. wrote: > I should be picking up a Powermatic 180 thickness planer sometime in the > next month. According to the info on the web, the uncrated weight, with > motor, should be around 1150 pounds. I have a 2004 GMC Sierra 2WD 1/2 ton, > extra cab pickup with a 6 foot bed and towing package. About all it gets > used for these days is hauling old tools (and boards). I moved a Delta 12/14 > table saw from Gig Harbor to Snohomish (about 100 miles) with no problems, > and a G4003 engine lathe with stand (about 1300 pounds total) from > Bellingham to Snohomish, about 85 miles, again with no problems. The catch > is that the PM 180 is in North Dakota, about 1100 miles away. There are also > a few mountain ranges between here and North Dakota, a situation I didn't > encounter in my trips up and down I-5 to Gig Harbor and Bellingham. > > So, the question is, should I rent a UHaul one way in N.D., or should I be > good to go just strapping the planer down in the truck bed? The biggest > drawback I can see to the trailer option (other than the added cost) is that > it's one more thing to break down, and there are a lot of wide open spaces > in Montana to cross..... > _________________ Take the truck to your mechanic, tell him what you're planning, and have him tell you what you need to fix first. If the truck's in good shape, it shouldn't have any problems with the trip. (though it's right at the capacity of the truck, which if Iremember right is about 1500 lbs, including the people involved.) -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com From ronnie.day at gmail.com Mon May 31 14:26:55 2010 From: ronnie.day at gmail.com (Ronnie Day) Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 15:26:55 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Hauling a big planer In-Reply-To: References: <4C040160.6080505@verizon.net> Message-ID: What David said, plus I'd look into renting, or maybe borrowing a two axle flatbed as a possible alternative. It should be easier to load/unload, and you'd not be pushing the load capacity on the truck. If you look at a trailer look at renting one way and round trip, then figure the difference in mileage not towing it empty versus paying a (probably) considerably higher one way rate. They tend to nail you on those, but they often don't like you taking their "local" trailers on the road. Whatever you do, be careful overnighting on the road. Nice toys like you're picking up are tempting targets for thieves. I'd be tempted to leave it crated and obliterate identifying info on the crate exterior. Am I paranoid? You Bet!! Ron On Mon, May 31, 2010 at 2:24 PM, David Scheidt wrote: > On Mon, May 31, 2010 at 2:35 PM, David C. wrote: >> I should be picking up a Powermatic 180 thickness planer sometime in the >> next month. According to the info on the web, the uncrated weight, with >> motor, should be around 1150 pounds. I have a 2004 GMC Sierra 2WD 1/2 ton, >> extra cab pickup with a 6 foot bed and towing package. About all it gets >> used for these days is hauling old tools (and boards). I moved a Delta 12/14 >> table saw from Gig Harbor to Snohomish (about 100 miles) with no problems, >> and a G4003 engine lathe with stand (about 1300 pounds total) from >> Bellingham to Snohomish, about 85 miles, again with no problems. The catch >> is that the PM 180 is in North Dakota, about 1100 miles away. There are also >> a few mountain ranges between here and North Dakota, a situation I didn't >> encounter in my trips up and down I-5 to Gig Harbor and Bellingham. >> >> So, the question is, should I rent a UHaul one way in N.D., or should I be >> good to go just strapping the planer down in the truck bed? The biggest >> drawback I can see to the trailer option (other than the added cost) is that >> it's one more thing to break down, and there are a lot of wide open spaces >> in Montana to cross..... >> _________________ > > Take the truck to your mechanic, tell him what you're planning, and > have him tell you what you need to fix first. B If the truck's in good > shape, it shouldn't have any problems with the trip. B (though it's > right at the capacity of the truck, which if Iremember right is about > 1500 lbs, including the people involved.) From shop at justbrits.com Mon May 31 17:44:51 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 18:44:51 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Hauling a big planer In-Reply-To: References: <4C040160.6080505@verizon.net> Message-ID: <4C0449F3.7030402@justbrits.com> << What David said, plus I'd look into renting, or maybe borrowing a two axle flatbed as a possible alternative. >> Absolutely AGREED, Ronnie !! Especially since David is "that" close to Max. GVWR !!! David, whilst I am NOT saying you shouldn't use just the bed, you would be "stretching the limits" of the truck and ANYTHING that might go wrong, WOULD [most likely ]. 'member that guy Murphy ?!?!? Ronnie..... << Am I paranoid? You Bet!! >> and I ABSOLUTELY agree with you again !!! Really "odd" how even VERY heavy things can just "grow feet or wings" !! Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com [with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.] From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon May 31 17:45:14 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 16:45:14 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Hauling a big planer In-Reply-To: <4C040160.6080505@verizon.net> References: <4C040160.6080505@verizon.net> Message-ID: <007a01cb011b$516a8030$0301a8c0@randall> > So, the question is, should I rent a UHaul one way in N.D., > or should I > be good to go just strapping the planer down in the truck bed? Unless there is an issue with loading/unloading the (higher) truck, I would skip the trailer. The trailer will use more fuel, and make it harder to get up and down those mountains. They're also something of a PITA when buying fuel, stopping to eat/sleep and so on. Randall From pethier at comcast.net Mon May 31 19:53:33 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 01:53:33 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] Hauling a big planer In-Reply-To: <869433762.3188881275357136504.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1096965456.3189241275357213171.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Forget the trailer, its just more weight to drag. Your pickup should be up to it. Tranny, brakes, and tires. Have an automatic-tranny tech flush and check your transmission. As you make the climb out of the Columbia Basin, you will remember why you did. Have your brakes checked out. That descent from Idaho to Spokane will wake you up, as will the one into the Columbia Basin. If you don't have good truck tires, this is a good time to get them. I have load-range-E tires on the Burb, and I run the rears at the max-rated 80 PSI when I'm towing my enclosed car trailer. I suggest you do the same for this trip. Secure the planer as far forward as you can in the box. But you knew that. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 1979 Caterham Super Seven 2004 Suburban 8.1 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com