From nases at verizon.net  Sat Sep  5 07:57:55 2009
From: nases at verizon.net (Phil Nase)
Date: Sat, 05 Sep 2009 09:57:55 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] automated home/garage lighting
Message-ID: <04AAF085-93AD-4588-A0A3-3598B98EE0D5@verizon.net>

I have installed several "sensor" type switches that never worked for  
me.  My home to garage entrance has the light switch about 7 feet  
above the garage floor and just doesn't see us.  They don't seem to be  
adjustable to the angles I require.  Also it seems to make the CFLs  
flicker badly.

Seems we always have our hands full entering the garage and I would  
like the lights off when we leave (and to stay on while I'm working  
out there).  It would also be great to have something for the most  
common areas of the house we occupy while home.

Anything good out there that can be done without major wiring?  We're  
always trying to find ways to save resources.  Thanks as always.

Phil Nase
Quakertown, PA
http://home.comcast.net/~philnasecpa/

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Sat Sep  5 08:20:32 2009
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 10:20:32 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] automated home/garage lighting
In-Reply-To: <04AAF085-93AD-4588-A0A3-3598B98EE0D5@verizon.net>
References: <04AAF085-93AD-4588-A0A3-3598B98EE0D5@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <2400a5d40909050720j320f2321q3db813d9d45eeeb4@mail.gmail.com>

On Sat, Sep 5, 2009 at 9:57 AM, Phil Nase <nases at verizon.net> wrote:

> I have installed several "sensor" type switches that never worked for me.
>  My home to garage entrance has the light switch about 7 feet above the
> garage floor and just doesn't see us.  They don't seem to be adjustable to
> the angles I require.  Also it seems to make the CFLs flicker badly.
>
>
Seems we always have our hands full entering the garage and I would like the
> lights off when we leave (and to stay on while I'm working out there).  It
> would also be great to have something for the most common areas of the house
> we occupy while home.
>
> Anything good out there that can be done without major wiring?  We're
> always trying to find ways to save resources.  Thanks as always.
>

I'd suggest a motion sensor at the fixture.  It can point down.  Some have
two sensors, which let you point one at the door to the house (so it comes
on when you open door to come out) and the other down (to catch you working
in the garage.)

Another possibility is a garage door opener.  Many modern ones can be told
to leave the lights on, and many can be configured to turn the lights back
on whenever the electirc eye is tripped.  (and of course, the lights come on
when you open the door.)
-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Sep  5 08:22:12 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 07:22:12 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] automated home/garage lighting
In-Reply-To: <04AAF085-93AD-4588-A0A3-3598B98EE0D5@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <20090905142212097.JCYL8566@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>

> Also it seems to make the CFLs  
> flicker badly.

The vast majority of CFLs are not supposed to be used with any other
electronics in the circuit, like dimmers or photo sensors.  Frequently this
information is not on the box, but it's usually in the fine print on the
base of the bulb assembly.

To use with a photo sensor, you need a 'dimmable' CFL.  Good ones seem to be
around $10 each; while so far the cheap FEIT ones from HD are running about
a 90% failure rate in the first few months of use for me.

Randall

From jniolon at bham.rr.com  Sat Sep  5 08:22:34 2009
From: jniolon at bham.rr.com (john niolon)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 09:22:34 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] automated home/garage lighting
References: <04AAF085-93AD-4588-A0A3-3598B98EE0D5@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <1B93442609B2447E8CC2EDD791DAE318@niolon>

Phil...

we have those at work in the offices and they work great... replaces the 
standard wall switch... the only problem was if you were say...working 
behind a open door or in a cubicle  you occasionally had to wave your hand 
out in the open to make the switch remember you were there.... they also had 
a override switch built in that kept them on until turned off...

do a goggle search on "occupancy sensors"  come in two and three way 
switches

later\
john




You cannot help the poor by destroying the rich.
You cannot strengthen the weak by weakening the strong.
You cannot bring about prosperity by discouraging thrift.
You cannot lift the wage earner up by pulling the wage payer down.
You cannot further the brotherhood of man by inciting class hatred.
You cannot build character and courage by taking away people's initiative 
and independence.
You cannot help people permanently by doing for them, what they could and 
should do for themselves.

......Abraham Lincoln
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Phil Nase" <nases at verizon.net>
To: "shop talk" <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 05, 2009 8:57 AM
Subject: [Shop-talk] automated home/garage lighting


>I have installed several "sensor" type switches that never worked for
> me.  My home to garage entrance has the light switch about 7 feet
> above the garage floor and just doesn't see us.  They don't seem to be
> adjustable to the angles I require.  Also it seems to make the CFLs
> flicker badly.
>
> Seems we always have our hands full entering the garage and I would
> like the lights off when we leave (and to stay on while I'm working
> out there).  It would also be great to have something for the most
> common areas of the house we occupy while home.
>
> Anything good out there that can be done without major wiring?  We're
> always trying to find ways to save resources.  Thanks as always.
>
> Phil Nase
> Quakertown, PA
> http://home.comcast.net/~philnasecpa/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as jniolon at bham.rr.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive


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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Sep  5 10:36:14 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 09:36:14 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] ZEP ant baits
Message-ID: <20090905163615187.VIKC16127@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

Anyone know where to buy ZEP brand ant baits?  I'm pretty sure I got them at
Home Depot last time, but they don't seem to carry them any more.  And they
are far more effective with the ants we have here than any other brand I've
tried.

I'm also curious if anyone has tried "rolling their own" using sugar and
boric acid or any other recipes.

Randall

From herby at herbytoys.com  Sat Sep  5 10:49:03 2009
From: herby at herbytoys.com (Herby)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 09:49:03 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] ZEP ant baits
In-Reply-To: <20090905163615187.VIKC16127@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <4182F686518244B7A1550BB81C578E29@HERBYZ>

You can always try online www.zep.com . We used to use many Zep products at
work until most were banned in Kalifornia. It could be that this is the case
with the their ant bait.

I have had success with the gels from this site,
http://store.doyourownpestcontrol.com and so far they still ship to CA. Max
Force also works quite well.

herby at herbytoys.com


Anyone know where to buy ZEP brand ant baits?  I'm pretty sure I got them at
Home Depot last time, but they don't seem to carry them any more.  And they
are far more effective with the ants we have here than any other brand I've
tried.

I'm also curious if anyone has tried "rolling their own" using sugar and
boric acid or any other recipes.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Sep  5 11:33:50 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 10:33:50 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] ZEP ant baits
In-Reply-To: <4182F686518244B7A1550BB81C578E29@HERBYZ>
Message-ID: <20090905173350564.NWJY5638@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> You can always try online www.zep.com .

No mention of ant baits on that site, maybe they don't make them any more.
I did find some on-line sources, but was hoping to hear that Ace or Lowe's
or someone local carried them.

> I have had success with the gels from this site,
> http://store.doyourownpestcontrol.com and so far they still 
> ship to CA. Max
> Force also works quite well.

Thanks for the tips.

Randall

From jibjib at att.net  Sat Sep  5 12:51:22 2009
From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 11:51:22 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] ZEP ant baits
In-Reply-To: <4182F686518244B7A1550BB81C578E29@HERBYZ>
References: <20090905163615187.VIKC16127@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
	<4182F686518244B7A1550BB81C578E29@HERBYZ>
Message-ID: <8A15AB907A39443CAAA22854A586DA14@HPPavilion>

I've used products from these guys and been happy with what they've sent;
both the product and the instructions.  Their "Articles" section is
invaluable, even if you are not buying from them.

http://www.bugspray.com

Jack 

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Herby
Sent: Saturday, September 05, 2009 9:49 AM
To: 'Randall'; 'shop talk'
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] ZEP ant baits

You can always try online www.zep.com . We used to use many Zep products at
work until most were banned in Kalifornia. It could be that this is the case
with the their ant bait.

I have had success with the gels from this site,
http://store.doyourownpestcontrol.com and so far they still ship to CA. Max
Force also works quite well.

herby at herbytoys.com


Anyone know where to buy ZEP brand ant baits?  I'm pretty sure I got them at
Home Depot last time, but they don't seem to carry them any more.  And they
are far more effective with the ants we have here than any other brand I've
tried.

I'm also curious if anyone has tried "rolling their own" using sugar and
boric acid or any other recipes.

Randall
You are subscribed as jibjib at att.net

Shop-talk mailing list

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk

http://www.team.net/archive

From shochschild at att.net  Sat Sep  5 14:04:34 2009
From: shochschild at att.net (shochschild at att.net)
Date: Sat, 05 Sep 2009 15:04:34 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Build a shop inside the house ?
Message-ID: <4AA2C452.4020101@att.net>

I am downsizing and moving sometime in the next 3-6 months or so.  I am 
an old single guy, so I can do whatever I want.  I am a sculptor, 
metalworker, carpenter, and racer/motorhead, with a race car, 3 other 
cars and 2 motorcycles all currently in project mode.

Rather than my original plan of finding a ~1000 sq foot house and then 
adding a 25'x40' shop in the back, I am considering a new approach, 
inspired by the cheap foreclosure houses that are available in a nearby 
bankrupt development.  My hare-brained scheme is to put my shop _inside_ 
a two story, 2000 sq ft, 3 bedroom, 1 1/2 bath house, taking up the 1st 
floor and garage, and actually living only up on the second floor.  The 
houses I am looking at all have attached garages and no basements.  This 
is outside of Austin, where the shop would have to be air conditioned.  
Let's not talk about all the legal, insurance, building code, HOA, OSHA, 
FNMA or other issues.  Those won't matter for a long time, if ever, I 
don't think.  I would be paying cash for this house and all these 
modifications, less than $150k total, no bank or mortgage involved.

I am thinking I would only have to make a few structural changes, all of 
which could easily(?) be changed back when I want to sell it:

   1. move the kitchen and and extend it's plumbing/electrical into the
      bedroom above it,
   2. wall off the front door entry way and stairs leading up to the 2nd
      floor, much as an old 2-family urban house or a students' rental
      house would have.
   3. remove any inconvenient, non-load bearing, interior walls.
   4. open up the doorway into the garage to be wide enough to easily
      move materials, tools, and projects in and out through the garage
      and it's garage door.
   5. widen and convert the sliding glass doors that lead out to the
      back so that they can be opened enough to roll a car in and out
   6. take up the 1st floor carpet and either epoxy the concrete
      subfloor or lay some kind of tile or whatever.
   7. add power, air, dust collection, exhaust fans, and all the normal
      shop infrastructure, but this and the floor would have to be done
      anyway in a new shop building
   8. in one house I looked at, the living room ceiling was high enough
      to have a lift; if I build a shop, it will definitely have a lift,
      but I don't own one now so it is not a firm requirement

What do you think?  What have I forgotten?  Is this foolish or the 
ultimate lifestyle improvement??? Do you know of anyone else who has a 
similar setup?

From 57healey at gmail.com  Sat Sep  5 14:30:39 2009
From: 57healey at gmail.com (57healey at gmail.com)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 20:30:39 +0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] Build a shop inside the house ?
In-Reply-To: <4AA2C452.4020101@att.net>
References: <4AA2C452.4020101@att.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.5.1252182673.3237.shop-talk@autox.team.net>

I would think you would want to address shop fumes and smells from encroaching in the living area.


Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: "shochschild at att.net" <shochschild at att.net>

Date: Sat, 05 Sep 2009 15:04:34 
To: <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Build a shop inside the house ?


I am downsizing and moving sometime in the next 3-6 months or so.  I am 
an old single guy, so I can do whatever I want.  I am a sculptor, 
metalworker, carpenter, and racer/motorhead, with a race car, 3 other 
cars and 2 motorcycles all currently in project mode.

Rather than my original plan of finding a ~1000 sq foot house and then 
adding a 25'x40' shop in the back, I am considering a new approach, 
inspired by the cheap foreclosure houses that are available in a nearby 
bankrupt development.  My hare-brained scheme is to put my shop _inside_ 
a two story, 2000 sq ft, 3 bedroom, 1 1/2 bath house, taking up the 1st 
floor and garage, and actually living only up on the second floor.  The 
houses I am looking at all have attached garages and no basements.  This 
is outside of Austin, where the shop would have to be air conditioned.  
Let's not talk about all the legal, insurance, building code, HOA, OSHA, 
FNMA or other issues.  Those won't matter for a long time, if ever, I 
don't think.  I would be paying cash for this house and all these 
modifications, less than $150k total, no bank or mortgage involved.

I am thinking I would only have to make a few structural changes, all of 
which could easily(?) be changed back when I want to sell it:

   1. move the kitchen and and extend it's plumbing/electrical into the
      bedroom above it,
   2. wall off the front door entry way and stairs leading up to the 2nd
      floor, much as an old 2-family urban house or a students' rental
      house would have.
   3. remove any inconvenient, non-load bearing, interior walls.
   4. open up the doorway into the garage to be wide enough to easily
      move materials, tools, and projects in and out through the garage
      and it's garage door.
   5. widen and convert the sliding glass doors that lead out to the
      back so that they can be opened enough to roll a car in and out
   6. take up the 1st floor carpet and either epoxy the concrete
      subfloor or lay some kind of tile or whatever.
   7. add power, air, dust collection, exhaust fans, and all the normal
      shop infrastructure, but this and the floor would have to be done
      anyway in a new shop building
   8. in one house I looked at, the living room ceiling was high enough
      to have a lift; if I build a shop, it will definitely have a lift,
      but I don't own one now so it is not a firm requirement

What do you think?  What have I forgotten?  Is this foolish or the 
ultimate lifestyle improvement??? Do you know of anyone else who has a 
similar setup?
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

You are subscribed as 57healey at gmail.com

Shop-talk mailing list

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk

http://www.team.net/archive

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Sat Sep  5 14:35:52 2009
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Sat, 05 Sep 2009 16:35:52 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Build a shop inside the house ?
In-Reply-To: <4AA2C452.4020101@att.net>
References: <4AA2C452.4020101@att.net>
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20090905162708.0205bab0@cox.net>

At 04:04 PM 9/5/2009, shochschild at att.net wrote:

 >I am downsizing and moving sometime in the next 3-6 months or so.....

 >Rather than my original plan of finding a ~1000 sq foot house and 
then adding a
 >25'x40' shop in the back, I am considering a new approach, inspired by the
 >cheap foreclosure houses that are available in a nearby bankrupt 
development.
 >My hare-brained scheme is to put my shop _inside_ a two story, 2000 sq ft, 3
 >bedroom, 1 1/2 bath house, taking up the 1st floor and garage, and actually
 >living only up on the second floor.....

Well that's a little like what I wish I could do.  But I'd like to 
keep my 3 bd room
ranch house intact, just raise it up about 10-12' on pole and 
concreate the foot
print.  I'd end up with something like 1400 sq ft of shop under the house.


I don't think you'll have too much trouble with some of things you 
want to do.
No one would really know.  I have a friend that had a shopmate in a bedroom
of his townhouse and turned that room into his wood working shop - he didn't
have a garage.  Another person I know has a small machine shop in an upstairs
bedroom of his house - small metal lath, drill press, band saw, and 
disk sander.

 >I am thinking I would only have to make a few structural changes, 
all of which
 >could easily(?) be changed back when I want to sell it:
 >

However, one thing about relocating to the 2nd floor.  You say, "I am 
an old single guy"  but you didn't say how old, or if you have any 
health problems.
Going upstairs occassionally is fine, but to have to do it many times a day,
can get to be a problem if:

a. you have any kind of health problems, like copd,
b. if you break a leg or something,
c. if you just get sick.

If something really bad happened, you could have an elevator put in on your
stars.

I really like having living quarters on the 1st floor, especially 
when I am sick.

John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
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From bjzwissler at gmail.com  Sat Sep  5 14:42:49 2009
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Ben Zwissler)
Date: Sat, 05 Sep 2009 16:42:49 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Build a shop inside the house ?
In-Reply-To: <4AA2C452.4020101@att.net>
References: <4AA2C452.4020101@att.net>
Message-ID: <4AA2CD49.5060008@gmail.com>

The latest issue of Classic Motorsports has an article on the "dream" 
shop and one of them says the first floor is all garage and shop and 
second floor living space.  This is a custom built house and looks 
pretty pricey, but at least the idea has been done.  The biggest issue I 
see is that most houses have a load bearing wall down the middle, pretty 
much under the roof peak.  Most houses around here are about 24' wide 
and the 12' floor joists for the second floor sit on it.  I have a 
basement garage and they put a steel I-beam in to increase the 
unsupported span and eliminate the post that would have otherwise been 
in the middle of the garage to hold up the wooden 2x beam that supports 
the floor joists.  I suppose this could bone "after the fact" but more 
$$$$.  An engineer/architect could probably tell what could be done.

The only "foolish" part I see would be the resale value hit, but if you 
don't care about that I don't see a problem - except maybe your neighbors.

Ben.....


Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at gmail.com
Columbus, IN
1966 Triumph TR4A
1973 MG Midget
1980 Triumph TR8
2007 Mazda RX8
2002 Yamaha FZ1
2003 Honda ST1300


On 9/5/2009 4:04 PM, shochschild at att.net wrote:
> I am downsizing and moving sometime in the next 3-6 months or so.  I 
> am an old single guy, so I can do whatever I want.  I am a sculptor, 
> metalworker, carpenter, and racer/motorhead, with a race car, 3 other 
> cars and 2 motorcycles all currently in project mode.
>
> Rather than my original plan of finding a ~1000 sq foot house and then 
> adding a 25'x40' shop in the back, I am considering a new approach, 
> inspired by the cheap foreclosure houses that are available in a 
> nearby bankrupt development.  My hare-brained scheme is to put my shop 
> _inside_ a two story, 2000 sq ft, 3 bedroom, 1 1/2 bath house, taking 
> up the 1st floor and garage, and actually living only up on the second 
> floor.  The houses I am looking at all have attached garages and no 
> basements.  This is outside of Austin, where the shop would have to be 
> air conditioned.  Let's not talk about all the legal, insurance, 
> building code, HOA, OSHA, FNMA or other issues.  Those won't matter 
> for a long time, if ever, I don't think.  I would be paying cash for 
> this house and all these modifications, less than $150k total, no bank 
> or mortgage involved.
>
> I am thinking I would only have to make a few structural changes, all 
> of which could easily(?) be changed back when I want to sell it:
>
>   1. move the kitchen and and extend it's plumbing/electrical into the
>      bedroom above it,
>   2. wall off the front door entry way and stairs leading up to the 2nd
>      floor, much as an old 2-family urban house or a students' rental
>      house would have.
>   3. remove any inconvenient, non-load bearing, interior walls.
>   4. open up the doorway into the garage to be wide enough to easily
>      move materials, tools, and projects in and out through the garage
>      and it's garage door.
>   5. widen and convert the sliding glass doors that lead out to the
>      back so that they can be opened enough to roll a car in and out
>   6. take up the 1st floor carpet and either epoxy the concrete
>      subfloor or lay some kind of tile or whatever.
>   7. add power, air, dust collection, exhaust fans, and all the normal
>      shop infrastructure, but this and the floor would have to be done
>      anyway in a new shop building
>   8. in one house I looked at, the living room ceiling was high enough
>      to have a lift; if I build a shop, it will definitely have a lift,
>      but I don't own one now so it is not a firm requirement
>
> What do you think?  What have I forgotten?  Is this foolish or the 
> ultimate lifestyle improvement??? Do you know of anyone else who has a 
> similar setup?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as bjzwissler at gmail.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bk13 at earthlink.net  Sat Sep  5 14:47:42 2009
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Sat, 05 Sep 2009 13:47:42 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] ZEP ant baits
In-Reply-To: <20090905163615187.VIKC16127@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
References: <20090905163615187.VIKC16127@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <4AA2CE6E.5020802@earthlink.net>

Randall,

I was also happy with the Zep ant baits. I really like the fact that 
they are clear so you can see the inside and know when the bait is gone, 
so for very active ants, you know to replace it.

I called Zep several years ago when they disappeared from Home Depot. 
The same product is sold under the "Enforcer" brand at hardware stores. 
True Value is one of the chains. Since you are local, Hawthorne Hardware 
at 13532 Hawthorne Blvd carries them. There are two varieties and I keep 
forgetting which one is best. The AntMax with Abamectin don't seem to 
work with my ants, so I will be going back for the other kind. Boric 
acid powder also doesn't seem to phase them for me, but maybe there are 
just too many.

For comparison, I found an old Zep bait in the back of a cabinet and the 
active ingredient is N-ethyl Perfluorgoctanesulfonamide.

Please let me know if you have any luck with other methods as I am 
spraying a couple times a week to try and keep them out of the new 
house. I'd really like to eliminate the massive colonies around the 
property.

The next pest control step will be what I expect are gophers.

Brian

Randall wrote:
> Anyone know where to buy ZEP brand ant baits?  I'm pretty sure I got them at
> Home Depot last time, but they don't seem to carry them any more.  And they
> are far more effective with the ants we have here than any other brand I've
> tried.
>
> I'm also curious if anyone has tried "rolling their own" using sugar and
> boric acid or any other recipes.
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as bk13 at earthlink.net
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ericm at lne.com  Sat Sep  5 16:26:16 2009
From: ericm at lne.com (Eric Murray)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 15:26:16 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Build a shop inside the house ?
In-Reply-To: <4AA2CD49.5060008@gmail.com>
References: <4AA2C452.4020101@att.net> <4AA2CD49.5060008@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20090905222616.GE7614@slack.lne.com>

> The only "foolish" part I see would be the resale value hit, but if you 
> don't care about that I don't see a problem - except maybe your neighbors.


Shop smells getting into the living quarters.

I had a paint booth in the back room of a house
I was renting.  I made an exhaust system to suck the fumes from
the booth into the outdoors but it still stunk up the house some.

In my garage proper I'd often run two-stroke bikes (stinky) or burn out
the crud from expansion chambers  (incredibly stinky and smoky, to the
point where neighbors would ask what was going on).  The garage didn't
have a door to the house, and I was glad for that.  Not to mention
my wife's collection of Honda Superhawk gas tanks, each containing
vintage gas.  The reek of old gas never really goes away.


The house I have now, there's two doors and
a hallway between the garage and the house, and that keeps the
smells out of the house.

Eric

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Sat Sep  5 20:12:06 2009
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Sat, 05 Sep 2009 22:12:06 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Build a shop inside the house ?
References: <4AA2C452.4020101@att.net> <4AA2CD49.5060008@gmail.com>
	<20090905222616.GE7614@slack.lne.com>
Message-ID: <A116D2248EC84F77831AC982FF8F9E8A@fred8kwiskhcfu>

Eric, strike a match for a little better lighting, if you understand the 
meaning of the word "STUPID",  lost a fine gentleman in my "Model A' " club 
a few years back for just this same act, that is not a odor, it is a 
extremely dangerous explosive fuel  !!!!  "BOOM"
===============================================================================================================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Eric Murray" <ericm at lne.com>
To: <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 05, 2009 6:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Build a shop inside the house ?


>> The only "foolish" part I see would be the resale value hit, but if you
>> don't care about that I don't see a problem - except maybe your 
>> neighbors.
>
>
> Shop smells getting into the living quarters.
>
> I had a paint booth in the back room of a house
> I was renting.  I made an exhaust system to suck the fumes from
> the booth into the outdoors but it still stunk up the house some.
>
> In my garage proper I'd often run two-stroke bikes (stinky) or burn out
> the crud from expansion chambers  (incredibly stinky and smoky, to the
> point where neighbors would ask what was going on).  The garage didn't
> have a door to the house, and I was glad for that.  Not to mention
> my wife's collection of Honda Superhawk gas tanks, each containing
> vintage gas.  The reek of old gas never really goes away.
>
>
> The house I have now, there's two doors and
> a hallway between the garage and the house, and that keeps the
> smells out of the house.
>
> Eric
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as res8vz9q at verizon.net
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From battmain at yahoo.com  Sat Sep  5 20:28:15 2009
From: battmain at yahoo.com (Battmain)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 19:28:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] ZEP ant baits
In-Reply-To: <20090905163615187.VIKC16127@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
References: <20090905163615187.VIKC16127@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <450858.71632.qm@web57002.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

I tried rolling my own with the boric acid and honey. It swarmed them
good,
they disappeared for a few days, my concoction turned to a 
hardened crust and
I got annoyed. Right now, Terro brand is working for
the two sweet eating ant
varieties around me. Occasionally one variant of
a biting ant gets at it and
they too disappear for a while. The real fireant
is a RPITA.  There is a brand
of Ortho that is a stinky white power 
that seems to work fast. I cannot store
it in the garage and it is relagated 
to hidden corner of the front porch.
The boric acid worked well for the roaches I had when I first moved in. I
still 
have boric powder behind the dishwasher. 

Brian
battmain at yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: shop talk
<shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 5, 2009 12:36:14 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] ZEP ant baits

Anyone know where to buy ZEP brand ant
baits?  I'm pretty sure I got them at
Home Depot last time, but they don't
seem to carry them any more.  And they
are far more effective with the ants we
have here than any other brand I've
tried.

I'm also curious if anyone has
tried "rolling their own" using sugar and
boric acid or any other recipes.
Randall
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

You are subscribed as battmain at yahoo.com
Shop-talk mailing list

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
http://www.team.net/archive

From jibjib at att.net  Sun Sep  6 00:55:33 2009
From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 23:55:33 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] ZEP ant baits
In-Reply-To: <450858.71632.qm@web57002.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
References: <20090905163615187.VIKC16127@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
	<450858.71632.qm@web57002.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <54F4B8EC22DF4F32A6CAF031C9BB4168@HPPavilion>

The key for us was to not only kill what was already in the house, but to
put a three foot barrier in the ground around the foundation and then hit
the foundation too.  That way, once you killed the ones inside the
perimeter, the others could not (did not want to) get in.

Jack 

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Battmain
Sent: Saturday, September 05, 2009 7:28 PM
To: shoptalk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] ZEP ant baits

I tried rolling my own with the boric acid and honey. It swarmed them good,
they disappeared for a few days, my concoction turned to a hardened crust
and I got annoyed. Right now, Terro brand is working for the two sweet
eating ant varieties around me. Occasionally one variant of a biting ant
gets at it and they too disappear for a while. The real fireant is a RPITA.
There is a brand of Ortho that is a stinky white power that seems to work
fast. I cannot store it in the garage and it is relagated to hidden corner
of the front porch.
The boric acid worked well for the roaches I had when I first moved in. I
still have boric powder behind the dishwasher. 

Brian
battmain at yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: shop talk
<shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 5, 2009 12:36:14 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] ZEP ant baits

Anyone know where to buy ZEP brand ant
baits?  I'm pretty sure I got them at
Home Depot last time, but they don't
seem to carry them any more.  And they
are far more effective with the ants we
have here than any other brand I've
tried.

I'm also curious if anyone has
tried "rolling their own" using sugar and boric acid or any other recipes.
Randall
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html

You are subscribed as battmain at yahoo.com Shop-talk mailing list

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
http://www.team.net/archive
You are subscribed as jibjib at att.net

Shop-talk mailing list

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk

http://www.team.net/archive

From chad at linuxeg.com  Sun Sep  6 01:35:54 2009
From: chad at linuxeg.com (Chad on LEG)
Date: Sun, 06 Sep 2009 03:35:54 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Build a shop inside the house ?
In-Reply-To: <4AA2C452.4020101@att.net>
References: <4AA2C452.4020101@att.net>
Message-ID: <4AA3665A.8040107@linuxeg.com>


[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of Dont-Tread-300.gif]

From scott.hall at comcast.net  Sun Sep  6 12:46:36 2009
From: scott.hall at comcast.net (scott.hall at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 18:46:36 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Shop-talk] air tank mounting/filling suggestions?
In-Reply-To: <332740.2260.qm@web57007.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <120503121.2879841252262796327.JavaMail.root@sz0146a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

so I got a new air tank from harbor freight. it's got the schraeder chuck for filling, with a dial open/close valve. it works fine but takes forever to fill it. I was going to hook up a quick disconnect off the main compressor line and some ball valves, but I thought before I reinvented the wheel I'd ask here to see if anyone has a setup they like. 

thanks. 

scott 

From rkg at teleport.com  Sun Sep  6 13:13:21 2009
From: rkg at teleport.com (Richard George)
Date: Sun, 06 Sep 2009 12:13:21 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] air tank mounting/filling suggestions?
In-Reply-To: <120503121.2879841252262796327.JavaMail.root@sz0146a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <120503121.2879841252262796327.JavaMail.root@sz0146a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4AA409D1.20502@teleport.com>

Hi,

I mounted an air hose coupler on my portable tank and put a decent air 
chuck on a short hose. To fill the tank fast I made up a male-male 
connector so I can
hook it directly to my air lines - you use the valve on the tank to keep 
things from getting exciting (turn off valve, plug in male/male, plug in 
air line,
turn on valve to fill,  turn off valve when full, disconnect airline, 
etc).  It fills pretty quickly.

Its also handy to be able to put a longer hose on the air tank, use the 
tank to power air tools in a pinch, etc.

Best,

rkg
(Richard George)
> so I got a new air tank from harbor freight. it's got the schraeder chuck for filling, with a dial open/close valve. it works fine but takes forever to fill it. I was going to hook up a quick disconnect off the main compressor line and some ball valves, but I thought before I reinvented the wheel I'd ask here to see if anyone has a setup they like. 
>
> thanks. 
>
> scott 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as rkg at teleport.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Sep  6 13:14:24 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 06 Sep 2009 13:14:24 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] air tank mounting/filling suggestions?
In-Reply-To: <120503121.2879841252262796327.JavaMail.root@sz0146a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <120503121.2879841252262796327.JavaMail.root@sz0146a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4AA40A10.8040108@bradakis.com>

Soon after I got my air tank I removed the stock hose and air chuck, 
left the
valve, gauge and pressure relief intact.  I added about a 4 foot chunk of
hose, put a female quick connect on the end.  Made up a filling valve which
consists of a ball valve with two matching male ends.  To fill the tank, 
I hook
on end of the filler valve into a compressor outlet, hook the air tank 
hose to
the other side and open the ball valve.

Tank fills in moments and you don't have to try and hold an air chuck to
the fitting forever.  Plus I can take a full tank to some spot away from the
compressor and plug any of my air tools into it.  On more than one occasion
I've used the big impact wrench to loosen lug nuts on a vehicle out of hose
range from the big compressor.

A worthwhile modification, in my opinion.

mjb.

From lspector at gmail.com  Sun Sep  6 13:18:29 2009
From: lspector at gmail.com (Larry Spector)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 15:18:29 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] air tank mounting/filling suggestions?
In-Reply-To: <120503121.2879841252262796327.JavaMail.root@sz0146a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <332740.2260.qm@web57007.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
	<120503121.2879841252262796327.JavaMail.root@sz0146a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <167503c10909061218t35d86d0akfd29c593fc70f179@mail.gmail.com>

Mine takes forever to fill as well. The only way I've managed to speed it up
is to raise the pressure coming from my compressor. One thing that makes it
easier to deal with is a schrader chuck that locks onto the valve so that
you can go do other things while it fills.

-Larry

On Sun, Sep 6, 2009 at 2:46 PM, <scott.hall at comcast.net> wrote:

> so I got a new air tank from harbor freight. it's got the schraeder chuck
> for filling, with a dial open/close valve. it works fine but takes forever
> to fill it. I was going to hook up a quick disconnect off the main
> compressor line and some ball valves, but I thought before I reinvented the
> wheel I'd ask here to see if anyone has a setup they like.
>
> thanks.
>
> scott

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Sep  6 13:55:30 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 06 Sep 2009 13:55:30 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] air tank mounting/filling suggestions?
In-Reply-To: <167503c10909061218t35d86d0akfd29c593fc70f179@mail.gmail.com>
References: <332740.2260.qm@web57007.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
	<120503121.2879841252262796327.JavaMail.root@sz0146a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<167503c10909061218t35d86d0akfd29c593fc70f179@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4AA413B2.2020702@bradakis.com>

I happened to be out in the garage with the camera.

mjb.


http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=18

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Sep  6 14:12:18 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 13:12:18 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] ZEP ant baits
In-Reply-To: <4AA2CE6E.5020802@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <20090906201218351.GZZC5638@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> The same product is sold under the "Enforcer" brand at 
> hardware stores. 
> True Value is one of the chains. Since you are local, 
> Hawthorne Hardware 

Bingo!  Thanks, Brian!

Hawthorne is a bit of a hike for me (since we moved to Lakewood) but I
dropped by and picked up a couple of packages today.  It will be worth it to
not hear the wife complain about ant bites.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Sep  6 14:27:51 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 13:27:51 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] ZEP ant baits
In-Reply-To: <4AA2CE6E.5020802@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <20090906202751356.PGXC29089@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> There are two varieties 
> and I keep 
> forgetting which one is best. The AntMax with Abamectin don't seem to 
> work with my ants,

Oops!  Guess I should have remembered this more clearly ... the Enforcer
brand baits I just got do look just like the ZEP ones, but the box says
"AntMax with Abamectin" so I got the wrong thing.  Guess I'll give them a
try anyway, maybe my ants have different appetites than yours do.

> Boric acid powder also doesn't seem to phase them for me,

Unlike roaches, my understanding is that boric acid is only effective
against ants if you can get them to eat a substantial amount of it.  The
recipe I have calls for 1 tsp boric acid, 3 tbsp sugar and 2 cups water.
Dissolve the boric acid & sugar in the water, then saturate cotton balls
with the mixture.  The concept is that they will carry it back to feed the
queen and she will eventually die from what amounts to terminal ulcers.

> The next pest control step will be what I expect are gophers.

No gophers at my place, but we have what the locals call "tree rats".  The
Real-Kill "Rat and Mouse Killer" bars seem to be quite effective against
them.  Of course, as with any rat poison, there is always the chance they
will crawl someplace obscure to die (and stink), but so far, all but one
have craved open spaces.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Sep  6 14:30:59 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 13:30:59 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] air tank mounting/filling suggestions?
In-Reply-To: <4AA40A10.8040108@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <20090906203058357.PIFO29089@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> Made up a filling valve which
> consists of a ball valve with two matching male ends.  

Great idea!

Thanks, Mark.
Randall

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Sun Sep  6 14:53:37 2009
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Sun, 06 Sep 2009 16:53:37 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] air tank mounting/filling suggestions?
In-Reply-To: <20090906203058357.PIFO29089@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>
References: <4AA40A10.8040108@bradakis.com>
	<20090906203058357.PIFO29089@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20090906165224.01d3a2d0@cox.net>

At 04:30 PM 9/6/2009, Randall wrote:

 >> Made up a filling valve which
 >> consists of a ball valve with two matching male ends.

 >Great idea!
 >Thanks, Mark.

Mark,

I second Randall, comments,  THANKS!!!

If you don't mind, I'm going to use that in a quick tip with your picture and
crediting you, in The Brickline which I edit/publish.

John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From eltonclark at gmail.com  Sun Sep  6 16:50:28 2009
From: eltonclark at gmail.com (Elton E. (Tony) Clark)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 17:50:28 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] air tank mounting/filling suggestions?
In-Reply-To: <167503c10909061218t35d86d0akfd29c593fc70f179@mail.gmail.com>
References: <332740.2260.qm@web57007.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
	<120503121.2879841252262796327.JavaMail.root@sz0146a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<167503c10909061218t35d86d0akfd29c593fc70f179@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ea2385360909061550x34c43ba9j7b58c38c5ab33d6d@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, Sep 6, 2009 at 2:18 PM, Larry Spector <lspector at gmail.com> wrote:

> I use a schrader chuck that locks onto the valve so that
> you can go do other things while it fills..
>
*Exactly . . latch on the locking chuck and by the time you get another
beer, it's full!*
*Tony in Texas*

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Sep  6 16:53:00 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 06 Sep 2009 16:53:00 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] air tank mounting/filling suggestions?
In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20090906165224.01d3a2d0@cox.net>
References: <4AA40A10.8040108@bradakis.com>
	<20090906203058357.PIFO29089@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>
	<6.2.5.6.1.20090906165224.01d3a2d0@cox.net>
Message-ID: <4AA43D4C.4010408@bradakis.com>

John T. Blair wrote:
>
> If you don't mind, I'm going to use that in a quick tip with your 
> picture and
> crediting you, in The Brickline which I edit/publish.
>
No problem, hopefully it will make a bit easier for a few folks out there.

And of course, being the careful, attentive mechanic I am I have *NEVER*
plugged the filling fitting into a live feed from the compressor with the
ball valve open, nope, not me, never, honest, trust me!

mjb.

From shochschild at att.net  Sun Sep  6 18:58:14 2009
From: shochschild at att.net (shochschild at att.net)
Date: Sun, 06 Sep 2009 19:58:14 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Build a shop inside the house ?
Message-ID: <4AA45AA6.7020200@att.net>

Thanks to all who replied, and I especially am honored to be Chad's hero!

More thoughts and responses:

Regarding splitting the house in two: It was suggested that I am really 
looking for a house to convert to a duplex, as a way to explain my 
wanting to duplicate the kitchen upstairs, split the entry way, and get 
two separate hvac systems.  And then the downstairs apartment becomes my 
'craft area' or 'artist studio', emphasizing that I am an amateur and 
that this is not a business as is implied by the word 'shop'.

I am not old enough to consider an elevator, but thinking of other 
infrastructure changes to do when I do this remodel was the specific 
reason I posted.  So I appreciate the suggestions that I work on 
isolating the upstairs air from the downstairs air, greasy work from 
clean work, and noisy stuff out back.  As it so happens, my current 
house has two separate heat pumps, one for up and one for down, and I 
think I will replicate that. 

I also understand the need to respect the structural issues before I 
start removing walls, and that I need to get an engineer to look at the 
house before I fire up the SawzAll.  This will all be looked at as I 
look at possible houses, obviously, an open floor plan would work better 
for me.  As long as I can get stuff from the garage into the house and 
my cars from the outside into the room with the high ceiling, I'll be 
fine.  And I wouldn't mind having an office and clean workroom in what 
would have been the den.  Anyway, I will try real hard not to bring the 
house down on top of me, and if I can find a place where this massive 
modification is unnecessary, even better.

The HOA / building code / insurance issues are unclear at this point.  I 
will deal with these as I begin to look for the specific place to buy.  
I'm at the very beginning of this plan  (fantasy?), and I have only 
looked at one place, randomly chosen because it was in front of me and 
met my initial criteria -- twice the space at half the price of what I 
have been looking at.  I had not realized that this huge price 
differential existed based on being in town, where prices have been 
holding up and even rising  vs. 10 miles out in a half-empty 
subdivision.  I had been assuming that I would stay in town, where I 
have been for 27 years, but just by going a few miles away, I have 
hundreds of houses to look at...

So thanks again, great feedback, exactly what I was looking for, and 
I'll let you know my thinking as I move ahead. 
steveh


Chad on LEG wrote:
> You are my hero!
> chad

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Sun Sep  6 19:14:42 2009
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 21:14:42 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Build a shop inside the house ?
In-Reply-To: <4AA45AA6.7020200@att.net>
References: <4AA45AA6.7020200@att.net>
Message-ID: <7FCEE393A1ED413E997ABEC216BA4863@EricJRussellPC>

Have you considered the opposite? Building a house inside a shop? Any 
commercial buildings in the locations you wish to reside? Would it be 
possible to build living quarters into such a building? Would it even be 
allowed...?

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell 

From rkg at teleport.com  Sun Sep  6 19:22:05 2009
From: rkg at teleport.com (Richard George)
Date: Sun, 06 Sep 2009 18:22:05 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Build a shop inside the house ?
In-Reply-To: <7FCEE393A1ED413E997ABEC216BA4863@EricJRussellPC>
References: <4AA45AA6.7020200@att.net>
	<7FCEE393A1ED413E997ABEC216BA4863@EricJRussellPC>
Message-ID: <4AA4603D.9010204@teleport.com>

Interesting question - pick up an old single or double wide, and you're 
in business...

Best,

rkg
(Richard George)
> Have you considered the opposite? Building a house inside a shop? Any 
> commercial buildings in the locations you wish to reside? Would it be 
> possible to build living quarters into such a building? Would it even 
> be allowed...?
>
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
> http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as rkg at teleport.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Sun Sep  6 19:22:55 2009
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 21:22:55 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] air tank mounting/filling suggestions?
In-Reply-To: <4AA43D4C.4010408@bradakis.com>
References: <4AA40A10.8040108@bradakis.com>
	<20090906203058357.PIFO29089@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>
	<6.2.5.6.1.20090906165224.01d3a2d0@cox.net>
	<4AA43D4C.4010408@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <2400a5d40909061822j594b7495sb0fed66b7efb633@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, Sep 6, 2009 at 6:53 PM, Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:

> John T. Blair wrote:
>
>>
>> If you don't mind, I'm going to use that in a quick tip with your picture
>> and
>> crediting you, in The Brickline which I edit/publish.
>>
>>  No problem, hopefully it will make a bit easier for a few folks out
> there.
>
> And of course, being the careful, attentive mechanic I am I have *NEVER*
> plugged the filling fitting into a live feed from the compressor with the
> ball valve open, nope, not me, never, honest, trust me!


When I drove a tow truck, the air pig we carried on one of the trucks had a
fill along those lines, except it was spring loaded, so you had to hold the
valve while it filled.  I've never seen another fitting likethat,  but I've
not looked, either.


-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From wmc_st at xxiii.com  Sun Sep  6 19:23:56 2009
From: wmc_st at xxiii.com (Wayne)
Date: Sun, 06 Sep 2009 21:23:56 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Build a shop inside the house ?
In-Reply-To: <7FCEE393A1ED413E997ABEC216BA4863@EricJRussellPC>
References: <4AA45AA6.7020200@att.net>
	<7FCEE393A1ED413E997ABEC216BA4863@EricJRussellPC>
Message-ID: <4AA460AC.9020906@xxiii.com>

Eric J Russell wrote:
> Have you considered the opposite? Building a house inside a shop? Any 
> commercial buildings in the locations you wish to reside? Would it be 
> possible to build living quarters into such a building? Would it even be 
> allowed...?

Would also be worth comparing property tax rates for the hose-shop vs a 
shop with living quarters.  In many area the tax rates vary a lot 
depending on the zoning and intended use of the building.

-Wayne

From eltonclark at gmail.com  Sun Sep  6 20:14:34 2009
From: eltonclark at gmail.com (Elton E. (Tony) Clark)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 21:14:34 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Build a shop inside the house ?
In-Reply-To: <4AA460AC.9020906@xxiii.com>
References: <4AA45AA6.7020200@att.net>
	<7FCEE393A1ED413E997ABEC216BA4863@EricJRussellPC>
	<4AA460AC.9020906@xxiii.com>
Message-ID: <ea2385360909061914j1e3242e9l9253aeb82f893a81@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, Sep 6, 2009 at 8:23 PM, Wayne <wmc_st at xxiii.com> wrote:

> Eric J Russell wrote:
>
>> Have you considered the opposite? Building a house inside a shop? Any
>> commercial buildings in the locations you wish to reside? Would it be
>> possible to build living quarters into such a building? Would it even be
>> allowed...?
>>
>
> *When gas prices reached $4 there was a glut of motor homes at play-money
> prices . . a 10 year old $100K unit (with a bad transmisson) was advertised
> at $4800 on Craig's list.  It crossed my mind that one could park that
> sucker by any commercial shop building, plumb it and wire it to the
> building and be bust proof from the zoning standpoint and  enjoy pretty nice
> accommendation.*
>
Tony

From gsteve at hammatt.com  Sun Sep  6 20:23:04 2009
From: gsteve at hammatt.com (Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 19:23:04 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Build a shop inside the house ?
In-Reply-To: <ea2385360909061914j1e3242e9l9253aeb82f893a81@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4AA45AA6.7020200@att.net><7FCEE393A1ED413E997ABEC216BA4863@EricJRussellPC><4AA460AC.9020906@xxiii.com>
	<ea2385360909061914j1e3242e9l9253aeb82f893a81@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <471E7C60379D48AF911C7C0A16B91F58@DesktopPC>

1.  How many auto dealers have closed/are closing their doors?
2.  Conversions of old commercial/industrial buildings to
residential use are getting quite common (and a dream for us).
Just a thought.

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Elton E. (Tony) Clark" <eltonclark at gmail.com>
To: "Wayne" <wmc_st at xxiii.com>
Cc: "Shop Talk List" <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2009 7:14 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Build a shop inside the house ?


> On Sun, Sep 6, 2009 at 8:23 PM, Wayne <wmc_st at xxiii.com> wrote:
>
>> Eric J Russell wrote:
>>
>>> Have you considered the opposite? Building a house inside a shop? 
>>> Any
>>> commercial buildings in the locations you wish to reside? Would it 
>>> be
>>> possible to build living quarters into such a building? Would it 
>>> even be
>>> allowed...?
>>>
>>
>> *When gas prices reached $4 there was a glut of motor homes at 
>> play-money
>> prices . . a 10 year old $100K unit (with a bad transmisson) was 
>> advertised
>> at $4800 on Craig's list.  It crossed my mind that one could park 
>> that
>> sucker by any commercial shop building, plumb it and wire it to the
>> building and be bust proof from the zoning standpoint and  enjoy 
>> pretty nice
>> accommendation.*
>>
> Tony
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as gsteve at hammatt.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



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From cak at dimebank.com  Mon Sep  7 00:20:01 2009
From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 23:20:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Build a shop inside the house ?
Message-ID: <200909070620.n876K1qg027748@moose.dimebank.com>

> Would also be worth comparing property tax rates for the hose-shop vs a 
> shop with living quarters.  In many area the tax rates vary a lot 
> depending on the zoning and intended use of the building.

One thing to consider is that a commercial building might
qualify you for an SBA loan as opposed to a mortgage.

From eric at megageek.com  Mon Sep  7 07:52:28 2009
From: eric at megageek.com (Eric)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2009 13:52:28 +0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] Build a shop inside the house ?
Message-ID: <301472166-1252331568-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-269064523-@bda309.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Sorry I'm jumping in this topic late.  I'm still suck in Ecuador.  

Have you considered looking into a duplex home to start with?  Many times you can find deals on these.  Then less renovation costs and you can leave the full kitchen in the shop(I've basically added one to mine.) 

I might be able to hook you up with a realtor in your area that specializes in them for no cost to you.

Moose
Sent from Megageek's BlackBerry

From markmiller at threeboysfarm.com  Mon Sep  7 10:24:40 2009
From: markmiller at threeboysfarm.com (Mark Miller)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2009 09:24:40 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Build a shop inside the house
Message-ID: <08C5E1364B934AE5AD1D372AB89016C1@OFFICEPC>

Another thought: if there are so many available can you find two smaller
places next door to each other?  

Mark.

PS: oops if this comes twice, I send from the wrong account.....

From jdrush at enter.net  Mon Sep  7 22:59:47 2009
From: jdrush at enter.net (Rush)
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 2009 00:59:47 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] air tank mounting/filling suggestions?
In-Reply-To: <120503121.2879841252262796327.JavaMail.root@sz0146a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <120503121.2879841252262796327.JavaMail.root@sz0146a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4AA5E4C3.7080309@enter.net>

See http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2524/3898772551_fb86cc6296_o.jpg
I T-eed mine after the tank manifold and put a one-way valve between the 
tee and a male fitting. (The black and rusty thing.) I don't get any 
out-rushing air should I forget to close the tank valve before I 
disconnect the hose. And it keeps everything more compact than trying to 
fit a ball valve in the chain.

Jon

scott.hall at comcast.net wrote:
> so I got a new air tank from harbor freight. it's got the schraeder
> chuck for filling, with a dial open/close valve. it works fine but
> takes forever to fill it. I was going to hook up a quick disconnect
> off the main compressor line and some ball valves, but I thought
> before I reinvented the wheel I'd ask here to see if anyone has a
> setup they like.

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Sep  8 07:25:25 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 2009 06:25:25 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Welding Sheet Metal
Message-ID: <4AA65B45.9070308@comcast.net>

I need to make a car body panel repair.  I can either MIG or TIG.  This will be 
a butt weld on thin (22-24 gauge) sheet metal.  I've done it before with a MIG; 
it seems the best way is with a small gap to start and a series of tack welds or 
short beads that eventually join up.  With a  TIG, I think I could have less of 
a gap (or no gap at all), could run more of a bead and hopefully deposit less 
metal, but I'm also concerned with burn through.  I'm an amatuear welder, but 
getting better.

Recommendations?

TIA,
Bob

*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Tue Sep  8 08:01:45 2009
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 10:01:45 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Welding Sheet Metal
In-Reply-To: <4AA65B45.9070308@comcast.net>
References: <4AA65B45.9070308@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <B6A18F6CE89044C2A4E40EB5F62DE7FD@EricJRussellPC>

Browse around www.metalmeet.com (click on the link to 'forums' then ~ 2/3 
way down is a section titled processes  > joining metal). Be warned that 
that site can be addicting...

The MIG technique I use is to skip weld short tacks (1/4" long), hammer the 
hot welds to minimize the shrinking, grind off about 9/10's of the weld bead 
then skip weld between the previous welds, hammer, grind & repeat.

If you have access to the back of the panel a copper backer helps to 
minimize burn through.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell
----- Original Message ----- 
Subject: [Shop-talk] Welding Sheet Metal

> Recommendations?

From Tim.Mullen at ngc.com  Tue Sep  8 09:55:29 2009
From: Tim.Mullen at ngc.com (Mullen, Tim (IS))
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 10:55:29 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] ZEP ant baits
In-Reply-To: <4AA2CE6E.5020802@earthlink.net>
References: <20090905163615187.VIKC16127@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
	<4AA2CE6E.5020802@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C797037592C0@XMBIL103.northgrum.com>

> Boric acid powder also doesn't seem to phase them for me, but
> maybe there are just too many.

We often get (when it's been rainy outside a lot) what my wife calls
"piss ants" - the small little ones.

She mixes up a concoction of Boric Acid powder and sugar (dry - nothing
else) and pours it along their paths (on the splash shield between the
counter and the wall).  They tend to disappear in a day or so...

Tim Mullen

Chantilly, VA

From drew at DasRogges.com  Tue Sep  8 10:27:33 2009
From: drew at DasRogges.com (Drew Rogge)
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 2009 09:27:33 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Organizing nails and screws
Message-ID: <4AA685F5.60405@DasRogges.com>

Has anyone come up with a neat space efficient way of organizing nails and
"sheet rock" type screws? I tried coffee cans with a sample of it's contents
taped to the outside but they took up too much room. Now everything is in
separate bags in a box but it a hassle to look through all the bags to find
the nail I want. Any suggestions?

Drew

From pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu  Tue Sep  8 13:40:37 2009
From: pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu (Pat Horne)
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 2009 14:40:37 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Organizing nails and screws
In-Reply-To: <4AA685F5.60405@DasRogges.com>
References: <4AA685F5.60405@DasRogges.com>
Message-ID: <4AA6B335.6060407@mail.utexas.edu>

It depends on what quantity of each size fastener you have. My farther 
covered a wall (about 8'x8') with shelves spaced far enough apart to 
allow baby food jars to be placed on their sides on the shelves. One 
fastener was glued to the lid of each jar, then put on the shelf. It 
works well for small fasteners in small quantities. I use a punch card 
storage cabinet. It's like a file cabinet, but the drawers are only 
about 5" tall. One cabinet can hold lots of hardware!

Peace,
Pat

Thusly spake Drew Rogge, On 9/8/2009 11:27 AM:
> Has anyone come up with a neat space efficient way of organizing nails 
> and
> "sheet rock" type screws? I tried coffee cans with a sample of it's 
> contents
> taped to the outside but they took up too much room. Now everything is in
> separate bags in a box but it a hassle to look through all the bags to 
> find
> the nail I want. Any suggestions?
>
> Drew
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as pjhorne at mail.utexas.edu
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bobkegel at seanet.com  Tue Sep  8 16:54:24 2009
From: bobkegel at seanet.com (Bob Kegel)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 15:54:24 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Organizing nails and screws
In-Reply-To: <4AA685F5.60405@DasRogges.com>
Message-ID: <73FD7A7635564D98A52993FAFD85A554@8sv5f01>

I use Taster's Choice instant coffee containers. Depending on the size,
they'll hold 2 or 3 pounds of fasteners. With the labels peeled off they're
transparent enough to ID the contents.  If you don't like instant coffee,
Akro-Mils style hanging bins come in many sizes and colors. 

Bob K

From dhlocker at comcast.net  Tue Sep  8 19:57:53 2009
From: dhlocker at comcast.net (Donald H Locker)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 01:57:53 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Organizing nails and screws
In-Reply-To: <73FD7A7635564D98A52993FAFD85A554@8sv5f01>
Message-ID: <172964734.8835791252461473660.JavaMail.root@sz0052a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I use plastic peanut butter jars (I think they are JIf, clear ones with red lids.)  Stored down-side up, it's easy to see what (approximately) is in them, and they pack easily and are tough.  And many peanut butter brands come in that size, so even store brand jars work.

HTH,
Donald.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Kegel" <bobkegel at seanet.com>
To: "Drew Rogge" <drew at DasRogges.com>, "Shop Talk" <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 8, 2009 6:54:24 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Organizing nails and screws

I use Taster's Choice instant coffee containers. Depending on the size,
they'll hold 2 or 3 pounds of fasteners. With the labels peeled off they're
transparent enough to ID the contents.  If you don't like instant coffee,
Akro-Mils style hanging bins come in many sizes and colors. 

Bob K

From eric at megageek.com  Thu Sep 10 06:06:10 2009
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2009 08:06:10 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Had to share this one
Message-ID: <OF2042A916.945EEAD0-ON8525762D.00425ABF-8525762D.0043EB9B@mail.megageek.com>

I can't believe this one, but this guy is out there...

<http://www.megageek.com/funstuff/fundoc.nsf/d601ad3d05e57888852566c00054521c/644090b02c3d9c3a8525762d00423133?OpenDocument>

This link is on my personal site, so it's safe.

Moose
Everything I know about knots, I learned from Alexander the Great.

From bobkegel at seanet.com  Thu Sep 10 12:14:06 2009
From: bobkegel at seanet.com (Bob Kegel)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2009 11:14:06 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Had to share this one
In-Reply-To: <OF2042A916.945EEAD0-ON8525762D.00425ABF-8525762D.0043EB9B@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <F2813FA458F34DF48B2D0B49222ABE83@8sv5f01>

Of course it's going to fail, there's no duct tape.

Bob K

From Tim.Mullen at ngc.com  Thu Sep 10 12:36:14 2009
From: Tim.Mullen at ngc.com (Mullen, Tim (IS))
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2009 13:36:14 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Had to share this one
In-Reply-To: <F2813FA458F34DF48B2D0B49222ABE83@8sv5f01>
References: <OF2042A916.945EEAD0-ON8525762D.00425ABF-8525762D.0043EB9B@mail.megageek.com>
	<F2813FA458F34DF48B2D0B49222ABE83@8sv5f01>
Message-ID: <9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C797037AE9B6@XMBIL103.northgrum.com>

> Of course it's going to fail, there's no duct tape.

But do the "Heavy Duty" S hooks count as Bailing Wire substitutes?

Tim Mullen

From battmain at yahoo.com  Thu Sep 10 15:37:41 2009
From: battmain at yahoo.com (Battmain)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2009 14:37:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Had to share this one
In-Reply-To: <OF2042A916.945EEAD0-ON8525762D.00425ABF-8525762D.0043EB9B@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF2042A916.945EEAD0-ON8525762D.00425ABF-8525762D.0043EB9B@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <23468.29427.qm@web57004.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

(chuckle)  

Looks like even the lights are hooked up too. 

Brian
battmain at yahoo.com


----- Original Message ----
From: "eric at megageek.com" <eric at megageek.com>
(snip)
http://www.megageek.com/funstuff/fundoc.nsf/d601ad3d05e57888852566c00054521c/644090b02c3d9c3a8525762d00423133?OpenDocument>

(snip)

From jamesf at groupwbench.org  Fri Sep 11 14:04:07 2009
From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 16:04:07 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cross bracing a deck
Message-ID: <F2C027DE-DA77-4E09-98C1-DC4F265F1264@groupwbench.org>

There's a long skinny part of my deck that needs bracing. It's 8' off  
the ground, and the two 4x4 posts supporting it on the outside corners  
are about 5' apart. Instead of using a pair of 1x4s, I thought a sheet  
of lattice might provide adequate support, in a death-by-papercuts  
fashion. I think I've seen it treated, and it will also nicely hide  
the junkyard under the deck from junkyard-haters lounging on the lawn.  
Am I dreaming?

thanks,
jim

From jamesf at groupwbench.org  Fri Sep 11 14:25:08 2009
From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 16:25:08 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Free workbench near Boston MA
Message-ID: <EA061D62-6ABF-4841-8622-A18DE1A1C4A2@groupwbench.org>

Thought I'd offer this up here before I dismantle and toss it.  
Freestanding. 4x8 plywood on a very sturdy 2x4 frame. About 34" high.  
Wired with outlets but has been outside for a few years.

jim

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Fri Sep 11 14:59:18 2009
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 16:59:18 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cross bracing a deck
In-Reply-To: <F2C027DE-DA77-4E09-98C1-DC4F265F1264@groupwbench.org>
References: <F2C027DE-DA77-4E09-98C1-DC4F265F1264@groupwbench.org>
Message-ID: <2400a5d40909111359l6a9e4b3br79b5dbb729752f23@mail.gmail.com>

On Fri, Sep 11, 2009 at 4:04 PM, Jim Franklin <jamesf at groupwbench.org>wrote:

> There's a long skinny part of my deck that needs bracing. It's 8' off the
> ground, and the two 4x4 posts supporting it on the outside corners are about
> 5' apart. Instead of using a pair of 1x4s, I thought a sheet of lattice
> might provide adequate support, in a death-by-papercuts fashion. I think
> I've seen it treated, and it will also nicely hide the junkyard under the
> deck from junkyard-haters lounging on the lawn. Am I dreaming?
>

Yes.  (It will do a good job of hiding the junkyard, though.)   The stuff
I've seen is all put together with staples.

-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com  Sat Sep 12 19:32:40 2009
From: pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com (PJ McGarvey)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2009 21:32:40 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop Security
Message-ID: <BAY108-W21CF740A2B932FB317EF349AE50@phx.gbl>

Seems to be a rash of robberies in the neighborhood recently.  I'd like to
figure out a way to help secure my garage which is detached, about 50 feet
from the house, and the car which I park in the driveway.  I'd like to add
some wireless, motion sensors with alarm capability.

Specifically I'd like the garage one to have a siren that goes off when
triggered and could also call a phone number, or report back to a control
center that would beep or something, something I could keep near the bedroom
when asleep.  I'm lazy and my garage doors need a key to lock/unlock which is
hard for me to do on a daily basis, plus two old windows that are barely
enough to keep someone out if they should try to enter that way.

For monitoring the car, where there would be a greater chance of false
positives due to it being outside, animals, etc..  just to be able to alert
the control center that can trigger would be fine.

I've found some options from GE on Amazon.com and others found via Google.
Gee, the X10 site seems to have an awful lot of female models posing alongside
their products... that and all the other BS glitz has me wondering if I should
even be considering that as a solution.

How are people securing their garages, or specifically what products are they
using to alert them that someone has entered?

(I searched the archives a bit, but didn't see anything very recent at
all...)

Thanks,
PJ

From eltonclark at gmail.com  Sat Sep 12 20:20:20 2009
From: eltonclark at gmail.com (Elton E. (Tony) Clark)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2009 21:20:20 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop Security
In-Reply-To: <BAY108-W21CF740A2B932FB317EF349AE50@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY108-W21CF740A2B932FB317EF349AE50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <ea2385360909121920x148c5f5eg2df2426f05e7db6c@mail.gmail.com>

*I have a professionally installed and monitored alarm system in mt shop. .
. costs about $20 a month but I sleep well and I'm protected at home or
away..  A local engine builder was plagued by break-ins many years back . .
he installed a tripwire system which would fire a 12 guage shotgun shell
into a steel box . . he grinned when he imagined the effect of the blinding
flash and the deafening explosion on a nervous burglar in the dark. . .
would likely cause extreme  soiling of underwear . . *

On Sat, Sep 12, 2009 at 8:32 PM, PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com>wrote:

> Seems to be a rash of robberies in the neighborhood recently.  I'd like to
> figure out a way to help secure my garage which is detached, about 50 feet
> from the house, and the car which I park in the driveway.  I'd like to add
> some wireless, motion sensors with alarm capability.
>
> Specifically I'd like the garage one to have a siren that goes off when
> triggered and could also call a phone number, or report back to a control
> center that would beep or something, something I could keep near the
> bedroom
> when asleep.  I'm lazy and my garage doors need a key to lock/unlock which
> is
> hard for me to do on a daily basis, plus two old windows that are barely
> enough to keep someone out if they should try to enter that way.
>
> For monitoring the car, where there would be a greater chance of false
> positives due to it being outside, animals, etc..  just to be able to alert
> the control center that can trigger would be fine.
>
> I've found some options from GE on Amazon.com and others found via Google.
> Gee, the X10 site seems to have an awful lot of female models posing
> alongside
> their products... that and all the other BS glitz has me wondering if I
> should
> even be considering that as a solution.
>
> How are people securing their garages, or specifically what products are
> they
> using to alert them that someone has entered?
>
> (I searched the archives a bit, but didn't see anything very recent at
> all...)
>
> Thanks,
> PJ
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as eltonclark at gmail.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Sat Sep 12 20:26:51 2009
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2009 22:26:51 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop Security
In-Reply-To: <BAY108-W21CF740A2B932FB317EF349AE50@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY108-W21CF740A2B932FB317EF349AE50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <2400a5d40909121926s6dc14acds7ffdcdd3a92f745f@mail.gmail.com>

On Sat, Sep 12, 2009 at 9:32 PM, PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com>wrote:

> Seems to be a rash of robberies in the neighborhood recently.  I'd like to
> figure out a way to help secure my garage which is detached, about 50 feet
> from the house, and the car which I park in the driveway.  I'd like to add
> some wireless, motion sensors with alarm capability.
>
> Specifically I'd like the garage one to have a siren that goes off when
> triggered and could also call a phone number, or report back to a control
> center that would beep or something, something I could keep near the
> bedroom
> when asleep.  I'm lazy and my garage doors need a key to lock/unlock which
> is
> hard for me to do on a daily basis, plus two old windows that are barely
> enough to keep someone out if they should try to enter that way.
>
>
Step one: lock your doors.
Step two: call an alarm company.

If you're too lazy to lock your doors, you're probably too lazy to bother to
use an alarm system properly, though.


-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From jniolon at bham.rr.com  Sun Sep 13 09:48:48 2009
From: jniolon at bham.rr.com (john niolon)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 10:48:48 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] WELDING LEAD ROLLER
Message-ID: <5918ED9DEDC142718969BF5A84030646@niolon>

OK guys... I know some of you have figured this out... help me....

I work for a industrial piping contractor doing commercial/industrial piping 
and maintenance... lots of our work is outage work in steel mills, plants 
etc.  We tool up and trailer everything we can imagine using to the site 
nice and neat... but when it returns to the shop it's one tangled nasty mess 
all thrown in the trailers.  wet...dry...greasy...broken...smashed.

One of the jobs I hate is untangling and rerolling welding leads... 
sometimes hundreds of feet of heavy 2/0 to 4/0 welding leads that are 
kinked, twisted and heavy. Mostly we roll up as best we can and lay it on 
pallets... but it wastes a lot of space...

I'm looking to make a welding lead roller where you can stick one end of the 
lead on the spool, wind it up neatly in a compact package, tape or cable tie 
it together and the REMOVE it from the roller for storage... preferably like 
a roll of garden hose at the home depot

I know they sell them and they are expensive... this needs to be a shop 
fabbed project to save money.  Doesn't have to be powered...can be manually 
turned... fairlead would be nice but not absolutely necessary...

so ?? who's got pictures/plans/ideas

thanks

John
You cannot help the poor by destroying the rich.
You cannot strengthen the weak by weakening the strong.
You cannot bring about prosperity by discouraging thrift.
You cannot lift the wage earner up by pulling the wage payer down
You cannot further the brotherhood of man by inciting class hatred.
You cannot build character and courage by taking away people's initiative 
and independence.
You cannot help people permanently by doing for them, what they could and 
should do for themselves.
William J. H. Boetcker 

From pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com  Sun Sep 13 09:54:28 2009
From: pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com (PJ McGarvey)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 11:54:28 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop Security
In-Reply-To: <2400a5d40909121926s6dc14acds7ffdcdd3a92f745f@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BAY108-W21CF740A2B932FB317EF349AE50@phx.gbl>
	<2400a5d40909121926s6dc14acds7ffdcdd3a92f745f@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY108-W462DDC2D7AA7ECB0557B049AE50@phx.gbl>

Insightful, thanks.  It completely doesn't address the fact that I have 2
windows that would be an easy entry point and garage locks that, like yours
I'm sure, can also be bypassed.  I just went out to my garage and picked the
lock in 30 seconds.  And I'm a total amateur.

I had an ADT system in the house for over 5 years, and it was a waste of
time/money from the perspective that it generated too many false alarms, and
they kept jacking up the monthly rates...

The other issue is trying not to reach a point where I'm spending more on a
system than the total value of what's inside - which really isn't a whole lot,
however it would suck to have it stolen.

Simply I would like to know when someone is where they should not
be, when they should not be there.  Imagine someone is at your back
door snooping around, wouldn't  you like to know that?  Does it generate a
loud noise when tripped? does it let me know when it
does so I can decide how to respond?  This is what I'm looking for.

-PJ

Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2009 22:26:51 -0400
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Shop Security
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com
To: pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com
CC: shop-talk at autox.team.net



On Sat, Sep 12, 2009 at 9:32 PM, PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com> wrote:

Seems to be a rash of robberies in the neighborhood recently.  I'd like to

figure out a way to help secure my garage which is detached, about 50 feet

from the house, and the car which I park in the driveway.  I'd like to add

some wireless, motion sensors with alarm capability.



Specifically I'd like the garage one to have a siren that goes off when

triggered and could also call a phone number, or report back to a control

center that would beep or something, something I could keep near the bedroom

when asleep.  I'm lazy and my garage doors need a key to lock/unlock which is

hard for me to do on a daily basis, plus two old windows that are barely

enough to keep someone out if they should try to enter that way.


Step one: lock your doors.
Step two: call an alarm company.

If you're too lazy to lock your doors, you're probably too lazy to bother to
use an alarm system properly, though.


--
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Sep 13 10:32:34 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 09:32:34 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop Security
In-Reply-To: <BAY108-W462DDC2D7AA7ECB0557B049AE50@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY108-W21CF740A2B932FB317EF349AE50@phx.gbl>
	<2400a5d40909121926s6dc14acds7ffdcdd3a92f745f@mail.gmail.com>
	<BAY108-W462DDC2D7AA7ECB0557B049AE50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4AAD1EA2.2080401@comcast.net>

Motion-sensitive floodlights might help.  Maybe if you wired an audible alarm to 
the motion sensor?


bs


PJ McGarvey wrote:
> Insightful, thanks.  It completely doesn't address the fact that I have 2
> windows that would be an easy entry point and garage locks that, like yours
> I'm sure, can also be bypassed.  I just went out to my garage and picked the
> lock in 30 seconds.  And I'm a total amateur.
> 
> I had an ADT system in the house for over 5 years, and it was a waste of
> time/money from the perspective that it generated too many false alarms, and
> they kept jacking up the monthly rates...
> 
> The other issue is trying not to reach a point where I'm spending more on a
> system than the total value of what's inside - which really isn't a whole lot,
> however it would suck to have it stolen.
> 
> Simply I would like to know when someone is where they should not
> be, when they should not be there.  Imagine someone is at your back
> door snooping around, wouldn't  you like to know that?  Does it generate a
> loud noise when tripped? does it let me know when it
> does so I can decide how to respond?  This is what I'm looking for.
> 
> -PJ



-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From eltonclark at gmail.com  Sun Sep 13 12:50:43 2009
From: eltonclark at gmail.com (Elton E. (Tony) Clark)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 13:50:43 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop Security
In-Reply-To: <4AAD1EA2.2080401@comcast.net>
References: <BAY108-W21CF740A2B932FB317EF349AE50@phx.gbl>
	<2400a5d40909121926s6dc14acds7ffdcdd3a92f745f@mail.gmail.com>
	<BAY108-W462DDC2D7AA7ECB0557B049AE50@phx.gbl>
	<4AAD1EA2.2080401@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ea2385360909131150j68002008l25d3413f79a589d4@mail.gmail.com>

> *Wull then,   If you don't CARE what they steal;  just want to be
> INFORMED, you can BUY the alarm componets, install yourself, and program it
> to call your cell. . . I may get my system to do that to save the $20 a
> month monitor charge . . when it fires, I can either rush over  or call cops
> or both.*
>
>
> PJ McGarvey wrote:
>
>> Insightful, thanks.  It completely doesn't address the fact that I have 2
>> windows that would be an easy entry point and garage locks that, like
>> yours
>> I'm sure, can also be bypassed.  I just went out to my garage and picked
>> the
>> lock in 30 seconds.  And I'm a total amateur.
>>
>> I had an ADT system in the house for over 5 years, and it was a waste of
>> time/money from the perspective that it generated too many false alarms,
>> and
>> they kept jacking up the monthly rates...
>>
>> The other issue is trying not to reach a point where I'm spending more on
>> a
>> system than the total value of what's inside - which really isn't a whole
>> lot,
>> however it would suck to have it stolen.
>>
>> Simply I would like to know when someone is where they should not
>> be, when they should not be there.  Imagine someone is at your back
>> door snooping around, wouldn't  you like to know that?  Does it generate a
>> loud noise when tripped? does it let me know when it
>> does so I can decide how to respond?  This is what I'm looking for.
>>
>> -PJ
>>
>
>
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as eltonclark at gmail.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From strovato at optonline.net  Sun Sep 13 14:14:42 2009
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 16:14:42 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop Security
In-Reply-To: <BAY108-W21CF740A2B932FB317EF349AE50@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY108-W21CF740A2B932FB317EF349AE50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <0KPX005R0EWUTYP0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

You can always use one of the driveway alert devices like this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93068

It chimes whenever it detects motion.  If you put it outside, you 
will have some alerts from passing dogs and debris blowing by.  If 
you put it inside the garage, it really shouldn't do that, unless you 
have rats running around or something.  These things are typically 
battery operated, so you do have to periodically change the 
batteries.  It will also chime whenever you are out doing things in 
the area of the sensor.  This may not matter if you live alone, but 
if there are others in the house, they may find it a bit annoying.

I do have to agree with some earlier comments, though.  Step one 
should really be to improve the basics like locks and such.  If you 
have a traditional garage door and power out there, a garage door 
opener serves as a lock, and makes it easier to keep the door closed 
and secure.

-Steve Trovato
strovato at optonline.net

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Sep 13 14:36:14 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 14:36:14 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Whining time, Team.Net updates
Message-ID: <20090913203614.2F0D32E05F@bradakis.com>

Yes, I know that as the fellow behind the curtain who
keeps Team.Net on the air, I do my share of whining.
But the whining here is coming from one of the disks
on the server, a bearing ready to fail in a few days,
a couple of weeks, maybe not until 2010.  Who knows?

Rather than risk a sudden failure, it would be prudent
to consider getting new hardware.  And that is where you
come in.  I didn't have an official fund drive this year,
though donations have come in at random times during the
year.

It seems to be time for those of you who have not
recently contributed to step up and assist in keeping
Team.Net on the air.  If you have a few dollars to spare
and desire to support this endeavor, check out the web
page http://www.team.net/donate.html  I, and thousands
of folks around the planet would appreciate it.  Gee, I
haven't taken an actual count of all subscribers lately,
I ought to do a headcount.

On a related note, I have been doing a few things, like
moving a few more lists from majordomo to mailman.  Back
when I started doing this about 20 years ago majordomo
was the hot ticket.  It is a bit outdated now, mailman is
much more web friendly, hopefully much easier for you
folks to use.  Of course, there are those who still try
to use majordomo to manage their mailman subscriptions,
not much I can do about that!

One thing I did was change the judson list, which was
intended for discussion of classic Judson superchargers
to superchargers at autox.team.net, opening it up for folks
to discuss other brands.  Feel free to go to the mailman
page, http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo to sign up if
you so desire.

Actually I had hoped more folks would sign up for the-local
list, a place for random discussion about all sorts of stuff.
Tell a joke, review a movie, report the antics of your favorite
public idiot, lament the last loss of your team, whatever.

If there is a list you'd like to see, chances are I'd set one
up, no problem.

But for now, consider this an Official Team.Net fund drive,
and assist as you can: http://www.team.net/donate.html

Thanks!

mjb.

From eltonclark at gmail.com  Sun Sep 13 15:21:22 2009
From: eltonclark at gmail.com (Elton E. (Tony) Clark)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 16:21:22 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Time to Pay the Piper
Message-ID: <ea2385360909131421l5e25bac0r88443a24dd72ca47@mail.gmail.com>

*Mark,*
**
*I appreciate what you do.  I clicked the "PayPals" button and  put the
price of a six-pack "on you".  I would also like to "guilt" everyone on your
lists to do the same.  You all know how much we appreciate Mark . . . show
him . . *

*Tony*

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Sep 13 15:36:56 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 14:36:56 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Whining time, Team.Net updates
In-Reply-To: <20090913203614.2F0D32E05F@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <20090913213656231.KAAE14103@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> Yes, I know that as the fellow behind the curtain who
> keeps Team.Net on the air, I do my share of whining.

I disagree.

> But the whining here is coming from one of the disks
> on the server

Just curious, what does a server-grade hard drive cost these days?  Consumer
grade drives have gotten incredibly cheap (recently bought 1.5 Terabytes for
about $150), but good server equipment has always been more expensive.

> Of course, there are those who still try
> to use majordomo to manage their mailman subscriptions,
> not much I can do about that!

If I might make a suggestion; you could perhaps change the link at
http://www.team.net/tn-mail.html
which says "Team.Net Mailing List Manager" but points to majordomo.

> But for now, consider this an Official Team.Net fund drive,
> and assist as you can: 

On its way.
Randall

From shiples at comcast.net  Sun Sep 13 16:06:48 2009
From: shiples at comcast.net (Steve Shipley)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 15:06:48 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Whining time, Team.Net updates
In-Reply-To: <20090913203614.2F0D32E05F@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <5.2.1.1.0.20090913150149.03603d78@mail.comcast.net>

>But for now, consider this an Official Team.Net fund drive,
>and assist as you can: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Thanks!

Thank you!
Consider my donation unrestricted, drives, beers, other causes on the left 
or right, or whatever.

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Sun Sep 13 16:59:44 2009
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 18:59:44 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Whining time, Team.Net updates
In-Reply-To: <20090913203614.2F0D32E05F@bradakis.com>
References: <20090913203614.2F0D32E05F@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20090913185752.01d7f6f8@cox.net>

At 04:36 PM 9/13/2009, Mark J Bradakis wrote:

 >Yes, I know that as the fellow behind the curtain who
 >keeps Team.Net on the air.....

Mark,

I second what others have said.  I realize you don't get a lot of thanks.

So here's a BIG THANK YOU!!!!!

I know I really appreciate the service you provide, and I know that the
strangers that read items on the various web pages hosted here do to!

Again, Many Many thanks!

John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Sun Sep 13 17:16:34 2009
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 18:16:34 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Whining time, Team.Net updates
In-Reply-To: <5.2.1.1.0.20090913150149.03603d78@mail.comcast.net>
References: <20090913203614.2F0D32E05F@bradakis.com>
	<5.2.1.1.0.20090913150149.03603d78@mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W51344DAD5A2DF6FCBDAB1AE1E50@phx.gbl>

What he said

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA

'63 TR3B TCF587L

That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

See it moves!




> Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 15:06:48 -0700
> To: mark at bradakis.com; shop-talk at autox.team.net
> From: shiples at comcast.net
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Whining time, Team.Net updates
>
> >But for now, consider this an Official Team.Net fund drive,
> >and assist as you can: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> >Thanks!
>
> Thank you!
> Consider my donation unrestricted, drives, beers, other causes on the left
> or right, or whatever.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Sep 13 17:41:48 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 17:41:48 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Whining time, Team.Net updates
In-Reply-To: <20090913213656231.KAAE14103@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
References: <20090913213656231.KAAE14103@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <4AAD833C.7090804@bradakis.com>

> Just curious, what does a server-grade hard drive cost these days?  Consumer
> grade drives have gotten incredibly cheap (recently bought 1.5 Terabytes for
> about $150), but good server equipment has always been more expensive.
>
>   
One company that I dealt with while at the U of U has just about what I 
want for
around $1300 - $1500 depending on which bells and whistles.  Gee, it has 
been over
4 years since I worked at the U, they probably wouldn't recognize me 
with the beard
now.  And I wonder how long it would take someone at the U to wonder who 
charged
a new server to their account  ;-)
> If I might make a suggestion; you could perhaps change the link at
> http://www.team.net/tn-mail.html
> which says "Team.Net Mailing List Manager" but points to majordomo.
>
>   

Yes, I *really* need to update all the Team.Net web pages.  Yep, 
RealSoonNow.

mjb.

From robolane at sbcglobal.net  Sun Sep 13 20:09:40 2009
From: robolane at sbcglobal.net (ROBERT LANE)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 19:09:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop Security
Message-ID: <618720.52833.qm@web82001.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I have the Harbor Freight alarm to use on my front step.  It is so sensitive
that anything will set it off.  I  have adjusted the location and have partly
covered the lens up to focus  the target area that I want to monitor.  This
has really reduced the false signals.

I thinks that the Chamberlain brand sensor sold by Northern tools is probably
a better sensor,   So much so that I have ordered one  for another
application.

CATCH YOU LATER,     ROBO

From halfnights at shaw.ca  Mon Sep 14 14:43:27 2009
From: halfnights at shaw.ca (Art Halfnights)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 13:43:27 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Alarm??
Message-ID: <002101ca357c$02cc7110$f39701ae@home>

Hello  Group    take a motion detector the usually has two light bulbs in it.
Take them out screw a recepticle into one side plug in an extension cord run
it inside, screw a bulb in  or a bell or the tv, something  that gets your
attention quietly.  Regards  Art Halfnights  Maple Ridge B.C. Canada

From Tim.Mullen at ngc.com  Tue Sep 15 11:44:08 2009
From: Tim.Mullen at ngc.com (Mullen, Tim (IS))
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 12:44:08 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Alarm??
In-Reply-To: <002101ca357c$02cc7110$f39701ae@home>
References: <002101ca357c$02cc7110$f39701ae@home>
Message-ID: <9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C79703800FCA@XMBIL103.northgrum.com>

> Hello  Group    take a motion detector the usually has two
> light bulbs in it.
> Take them out screw a recepticle into one side plug in an
> extension cord run it inside, screw a bulb in  or a bell
> or the tv, something  that gets your attention quietly.

Along these lines, "they" also make X-10 Motion detector flood lights.
When the lights go on, they send out a signal on the X-10.  That signal
can be used to turn on other flood lights, turn on a lamp, an alarm, or
"ring" a door bell chime.   A simple, "wireless" way to rig things up.

Tim Mullen

From nogera2 at att.net  Wed Sep 16 15:28:10 2009
From: nogera2 at att.net (nogera2 at att.net)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 16:28:10 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Clutch Pressure Plate Rebuilding
Message-ID: <5CC935FD60CF47758C3BFFF821A7BB9E@CARROOM>

Anyone know of a company that will rebuild and balance a pressure plate
(clutch cover)?  The one I have used in the past has closed up shop. Given
the low quality of many of the parts I've purchased I'm thinking that I
might be better off having mine rebuilt by a reputable shop. 

Thanks for any leads

Bob   

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Thu Sep 17 08:29:53 2009
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 10:29:53 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Clutch Pressure Plate Rebuilding
In-Reply-To: <5CC935FD60CF47758C3BFFF821A7BB9E@CARROOM>
References: <5CC935FD60CF47758C3BFFF821A7BB9E@CARROOM>
Message-ID: <2400a5d40909170729y2bf0dec8o4b99d02588935bf4@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 5:28 PM, <nogera2 at att.net> wrote:

> Anyone know of a company that will rebuild and balance a pressure plate
> (clutch cover)?  The one I have used in the past has closed up shop. Given
> the low quality of many of the parts I've purchased I'm thinking that I
> might be better off having mine rebuilt by a reputable shop.
>
>
South Bend Clutch
574 256 5064

They're local to me, and have rebuilt clutches for my tractor, my
Land-Rover, and several other vehicles.  They also supply good quality new
parts.

-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From jniolon at bham.rr.com  Thu Sep 17 15:23:40 2009
From: jniolon at bham.rr.com (john niolon)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 16:23:40 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] computer (in shop) question
Message-ID: <B5A256B1C3B847DF951A29BA9ACAC5D7@niolon>

where is a good place to find out if my older computers video card will 
support LCD display replacing CRT....  it's a homebrew machine with an ABIT 
mother board and onboard NVIDEO video

is there a forum where you can post a general question without having a 
salesman hound you to upgrade ???

thanks
John
You cannot help the poor by destroying the rich.
You cannot strengthen the weak by weakening the strong.
You cannot bring about prosperity by discouraging thrift.
You cannot lift the wage earner up by pulling the wage payer down
You cannot further the brotherhood of man by inciting class hatred.
You cannot build character and courage by taking away people's initiative 
and independence.
You cannot help people permanently by doing for them, what they could and 
should do for themselves.
William J. H. Boetcker 

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Sep 17 16:55:01 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 22:55:01 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Shop-talk] computer (in shop) question
In-Reply-To: <B5A256B1C3B847DF951A29BA9ACAC5D7@niolon>
Message-ID: <595099102.2568321253228101416.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Other way around ... 

Your older video card probably has VGA (analog) output. Older LCD monitors accepted only VGA input; later LCDs supported both VGA and DVI input, and the the very latest usually only support DVI. 

If the connector on the cable from the LCD fits the connector on the video card it should work. 


bs 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "john niolon" <jniolon at bham.rr.com> 
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 2:23:40 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: [Shop-talk] computer (in shop) question 

where is a good place to find out if my older computers video card will 
support LCD display replacing CRT.... it's a homebrew machine with an ABIT 
mother board and onboard NVIDEO video 

is there a forum where you can post a general question without having a 
salesman hound you to upgrade ??? 

thanks 
John 

From obaa996 at yahoo.com  Thu Sep 17 17:22:30 2009
From: obaa996 at yahoo.com (Obaa)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 16:22:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] source of "S" type battery connectors?
Message-ID: <874046.64450.qm@web54305.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I'm trying to standardize the connectors across all my different battery
tenders/chargers, extension cables, etc.  The latest two that I bought have
connectors that I believe are the "S" type battery connectors that they use on
kids battery powered ride-on toys; I'd like to standarize on these since they
seem to be the current standard.
Is there an alternate name for these things?  I tried looking at digi-key,
which did not turn up anything, and a simple google just finds batteries for
sale.
 
Thanks,
Mike

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Sep 17 17:27:49 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 16:27:49 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] computer (in shop) question
In-Reply-To: <B5A256B1C3B847DF951A29BA9ACAC5D7@niolon>
References: <B5A256B1C3B847DF951A29BA9ACAC5D7@niolon>
Message-ID: <48DE72821C91468AB7821AA2862B931D@jdnet.deere.com>

"Onboard" means no separate video card, it's integrated on the motherboard.
So, get the MB model number and Google for it, to see what video outputs it
supports.  The ABIT website is at www.abit.com.tw, but I'm not sure how far
back they list.

Shouldn't be too hard to buy an LCD that supports analog input even today,
but it would be best if your motherboard would support the display's native
resolution.

If not, my suggestion is to buy a video card to suit the monitor.

-- Randall 

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Thu Sep 17 17:58:24 2009
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 19:58:24 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] source of "S" type battery connectors?
In-Reply-To: <874046.64450.qm@web54305.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <874046.64450.qm@web54305.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2400a5d40909171658k4b2a230ck60974995d319955d@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, Sep 17, 2009 at 7:22 PM, Obaa <obaa996 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> I'm trying to standardize the connectors across all my different battery
> tenders/chargers, extension cables, etc.  The latest two that I bought have
> connectors that I believe are the "S" type battery connectors that they use
> on
> kids battery powered ride-on toys; I'd like to standarize on these since
> they
> seem to be the current standard.
> Is there an alternate name for these things?  I tried looking at digi-key,
> which did not turn up anything, and a simple google just finds batteries
> for
> sale.
>
>
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/CON-321/2-CONDUCTOR-WATERPROOF-CONNECTOR-AWG-10/-/1.html
is that what you're talking about?



> Thanks,
> Mike
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as dmscheidt at gmail.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Sep 17 18:00:07 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 17:00:07 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] computer (in shop) question
In-Reply-To: <B5A256B1C3B847DF951A29BA9ACAC5D7@niolon>
References: <B5A256B1C3B847DF951A29BA9ACAC5D7@niolon>
Message-ID: <7E1B8ED5574549AFA09043895068D1A3@jdnet.deere.com>

Oh, one other thing, John.  If you are just replacing a failed CRT monitor,
I've got a working one that is about to go to the hazardous waste dump.
It's yours for shipping if you want it.  Don't recall offhand if it's 17" or
19", but it was a quality monitor.

-- Randall 

From jniolon at bham.rr.com  Thu Sep 17 18:28:02 2009
From: jniolon at bham.rr.com (john niolon)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 19:28:02 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] computer (in shop) question
References: <B5A256B1C3B847DF951A29BA9ACAC5D7@niolon>
	<7E1B8ED5574549AFA09043895068D1A3@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <9A57D3DAE82C48CBAE04B84014A7A25F@niolon>

thanks guys for the advise... and the monitor offers... I'm wanting to 
upgrade for better picture quality and to regain some desk space.. My 19" 
viewsonic is (nearly )as big as a smartcar.   My further digging says my 
mother board supports VGA and my max resolution under settings on desktop is 
1600x1200...  so I bet I'm looking for a new video card, possibly a power 
supply then the monitor.... all totalled... close to the price of a new 
computer  or at least half...   The system is 7 years old and functioning 
fine but do you put that much cash in a used machine  that the new 'green ' 
czar might outlaw next year :-)

my guru son will be in town this weekend and I'll let him diagnose/recommend 
also... I used to be literate...but nowadays my clock speed is too slow...

later
John
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "'shop-talk'" <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 7:00 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] computer (in shop) question


> Oh, one other thing, John.  If you are just replacing a failed CRT 
> monitor,
> I've got a working one that is about to go to the hazardous waste dump.
> It's yours for shipping if you want it.  Don't recall offhand if it's 17" 
> or
> 19", but it was a quality monitor.
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as jniolon at bham.rr.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.103/2378 - Release Date: 09/17/09 
06:18:00

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Thu Sep 17 18:30:51 2009
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 20:30:51 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] computer (in shop) question
In-Reply-To: <7E1B8ED5574549AFA09043895068D1A3@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <B5A256B1C3B847DF951A29BA9ACAC5D7@niolon>
	<7E1B8ED5574549AFA09043895068D1A3@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <2400a5d40909171730w54688b30r2ef2fcfedcfd2ba1@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, Sep 17, 2009 at 8:00 PM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> Oh, one other thing, John.  If you are just replacing a failed CRT monitor,
> I've got a working one that is about to go to the hazardous waste dump.
> It's yours for shipping if you want it.  Don't recall offhand if it's 17"
> or
> 19", but it was a quality monitor.
>

If you really want a CRT monitor, you probably won't have to pay shipping.
No one wants them, and they're regularly on craigslist and freecycle.


-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From tvacc at lotusowners.com  Thu Sep 17 19:05:55 2009
From: tvacc at lotusowners.com (Tony Vaccaro)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 21:05:55 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] computer (in shop) question
In-Reply-To: <B4F1061FB24C45EB986F80F50139347B@amicroinc.local>
References: <B5A256B1C3B847DF951A29BA9ACAC5D7@niolon><7E1B8ED5574549AFA09043895068D1A3@jdnet.deere.com>
	<B4F1061FB24C45EB986F80F50139347B@amicroinc.local>
Message-ID: <A27E5B22805F409193E3B2A9F71777D2@amicroinc.local>

Like I posted to you privately....you probably will be fine.

Buy the monitor as long as it has a VGA input. Worse comes to worse you have
to buy a video card and or a power supply. Both of which will cost you less
than $100 at newegg.com

This is my business, so I hope I know what I am talking about.....

Tony Vaccaro

LOONY (Lotus Owners of New York)
www.lotusowners.com
716-861-1412

This document and any files or e-mail messages attached to it contain data
or information that is confidential, privileged or otherwise restricted from
disclosure.  If you are not the intended recipient, be aware that any
disclosure, copying, distribution or use of any of the data or information
contained herein or in any of the attachments is strictly prohibited.  If
you have received this document or transmission in error, please immediately
notify the sender and destroy, delete or erase this document and all
attachments.


-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of john niolon
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 8:52 PM
To: Randall; shop-talk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] computer (in shop) question

thanks guys for the advise... and the monitor offers... I'm wanting to 
upgrade for better picture quality and to regain some desk space.. My 19" 
viewsonic is (nearly )as big as a smartcar.   My further digging says my 
mother board supports VGA and my max resolution under settings on desktop is

1600x1200...  so I bet I'm looking for a new video card, possibly a power 
supply then the monitor.... all totalled... close to the price of a new 
computer  or at least half...   The system is 7 years old and functioning 
fine but do you put that much cash in a used machine  that the new 'green ' 
czar might outlaw next year :-)

my guru son will be in town this weekend and I'll let him diagnose/recommend

also... I used to be literate...but nowadays my clock speed is too slow...

later
John
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "'shop-talk'" <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 7:00 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] computer (in shop) question


> Oh, one other thing, John.  If you are just replacing a failed CRT 
> monitor,
> I've got a working one that is about to go to the hazardous waste dump.
> It's yours for shipping if you want it.  Don't recall offhand if it's 17" 
> or
> 19", but it was a quality monitor.
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as jniolon at bham.rr.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive


----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.103/2378 - Release Date: 09/17/09 
06:18:00
You are subscribed as tvacc at lotusowners.com

Shop-talk mailing list

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk

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From wmc_st at xxiii.com  Thu Sep 17 20:48:37 2009
From: wmc_st at xxiii.com (Wayne)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 22:48:37 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] computer (in shop) question
In-Reply-To: <9A57D3DAE82C48CBAE04B84014A7A25F@niolon>
References: <B5A256B1C3B847DF951A29BA9ACAC5D7@niolon>
	<7E1B8ED5574549AFA09043895068D1A3@jdnet.deere.com>
	<9A57D3DAE82C48CBAE04B84014A7A25F@niolon>
Message-ID: <4AB2F505.9020908@xxiii.com>

john niolon wrote:
> says my mother board supports VGA and my max resolution under settings 
> on desktop is 1600x1200...  so I bet I'm looking for a new video card, 
> possibly a power supply then the monitor.... all totalled... close to 
> the price of a new computer  or at least half...   The system is 7 years 
> old and functioning fine but do you put that much cash in a used 
> machine  that the new 'green ' czar might outlaw next year :-)

What are all the specs on it?  I can probably give ya' some good advice 
on what's worth putting into it.

I've been playing the incremental upgrade game for a long time now, and 
recently rethinking all that.  I have the same PC case from March 2001 
that originally had an Athlon 850 in it.  Now it's an Athlon 3200, 2GB 
mem, 320GB disk, semi-decent video card (you need one just for web 
browsing these days, not just games and CAD) dual DVD burners...  "fast 
enough" for what I do, but still several years obsolete.  Anyways, point 
being, I've nickel & dime'ed a couple hundred bucks into it in the last 
three years.

Wake up call last week was sudden need for machines at work.  We found 
refurb Dell Precision Workstation 390 systems (their high-end 
cad/cam/graphics boxes), two years old with still reasonable specs (Core 
2 Duo 2.4GHz CPU, 4GB memory, DVD burners, Nvidia Quadro video card) and 
a year of Dell warranty left for $365/ea... fedex shipping included. 
And I'm wishing I had one of those @ home instead of my white box I've 
put too much into in the last few.

Another consideration is if you buy a new Dell, they will throw in an 
LCD monitor for nearly nothing;  although it's their lower end econo 
version.

-Wayne

From mark at sccaprepared.com  Fri Sep 18 08:17:36 2009
From: mark at sccaprepared.com (Mark Andy)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 10:17:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Build a shop inside the house ?
In-Reply-To: <4AA2CD49.5060008@gmail.com>
References: <4AA2C452.4020101@att.net> <4AA2CD49.5060008@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0909181016280.24878@thunder.banklogic.net>

Howdy,

On Sat, 5 Sep 2009, Ben Zwissler wrote:
> The latest issue of Classic Motorsports has an article on the "dream" 
> shop and one of them says the first floor is all garage and shop and 
> second floor living space.  This is a custom built house and looks 
> pretty pricey, but at least the idea has been done.

Not only has it been done, there are lots of "garage with apartment" plans 
out there if you wanted to start from scratch.

For instance:

http://justgarageplans.com/7/1/house-plans/garage-apartment-plans.php

Lots of those have a _lot_ of square feet of living and shop space.

Mark

From mark at sccaprepared.com  Fri Sep 18 08:25:54 2009
From: mark at sccaprepared.com (Mark Andy)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 10:25:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] air tank mounting/filling suggestions?
In-Reply-To: <120503121.2879841252262796327.JavaMail.root@sz0146a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <120503121.2879841252262796327.JavaMail.root@sz0146a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0909181022300.24878@thunder.banklogic.net>

Howdy,

On Sun, 6 Sep 2009, scott.hall at comcast.net wrote:
> so I got a new air tank from harbor freight. it's got the schraeder 
> chuck for filling, with a dial open/close valve. it works fine but takes 
> forever to fill it. I was going to hook up a quick disconnect off the 
> main compressor line and some ball valves, but I thought before I 
> reinvented the wheel I'd ask here to see if anyone has a setup they 
> like.

I don't know about how much I like it, but I've not been able to find a 
better way...

I put a regular quick disconnect at the end of the hose.  Normally a tire 
chuck lives in it, but when I want to fill it I shut off the tank and put 
in a male to male disconnect adapter.  Hook that up to the supply air 
line, turn on the tank valve, and it fills.  Shut off the tank, detach the 
_supply line from the adapter_ (otherwise you get to listen to the nice 
roaring sound of air.. :-) and you're done.

I'd much rather have a male adapter mounted directly to the tank with its 
own valve or a one way check valve, but haven't every seen something that 
will do this without having a bunch of home depot valves all over the top 
of the tank.

Mark

From mark at sccaprepared.com  Fri Sep 18 11:08:50 2009
From: mark at sccaprepared.com (Mark Andy)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 13:08:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] source for 12 ton + lower height jackstands?
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0909181307540.29825@thunder.banklogic.net>

Howdy,

Anyone have a source for 12 ton+ jackstands that aren't 2 feet tall?  I'm 
looking for something that can handle the weight of a diesel pusher 
motorhome, and I think the HF ones are too tall at nearly 2'...

Thanks!

Mark

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Sep 18 11:40:10 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 10:40:10 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] source for 12 ton + lower height jackstands?
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0909181307540.29825@thunder.banklogic.net>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0909181307540.29825@thunder.banklogic.net>
Message-ID: <D12C2BEEFB514785BACEEF69F1A6E4A3@jdnet.deere.com>

Just a thought, Mark, you might want to measure under your motorhome first.
It's common for the body to hang down quite a bit lower than the frame, you
may find that those 20" stands from HF will only hold it up by a few inches.

With my motorhome, I actually wound up adding some wooden spacers under the
HF stands, to get the height I needed.

-- Randall 

From strovato at optonline.net  Fri Sep 18 11:45:13 2009
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 13:45:13 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] source for 12 ton + lower height jackstands?
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0909181307540.29825@thunder.banklogic.net>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0909181307540.29825@thunder.banklogic.net>
Message-ID: <0KQ6001NHHBBF7E0@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

Home Depot lists Torin 12 ton, 18 1/2 to 28 inch:

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?jspStoreDir=hdus&catalogId=10053&productId=100595190


I just typed "12 ton low jack stand" into google and got lots of choices.

From jdrush at enter.net  Sun Sep 20 23:32:55 2009
From: jdrush at enter.net (Rush)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 01:32:55 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] air tank mounting/filling suggestions?
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0909181022300.24878@thunder.banklogic.net>
References: <120503121.2879841252262796327.JavaMail.root@sz0146a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<Pine.LNX.4.64.0909181022300.24878@thunder.banklogic.net>
Message-ID: <4AB71007.4090903@enter.net>

> I'd much rather have a male adapter mounted directly to the tank with 
> its own valve or a one way check valve, but haven't every seen something 
> that will do this without having a bunch of home depot valves all over 
> the top of the tank.

I posted this earlier, you musta missed it. :)

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2524/3898772551_fb86cc6296_o.jpg
I T-eed mine after the tank manifold and put a one-way valve between the 
tee and a male fitting. (The black and rusty thing.) I don't get any 
out-rushing air should I forget to close the tank valve before I 
disconnect the hose. And it keeps everything more compact than trying to 
fit a ball valve in the chain.

From arvidj at visi.com  Mon Sep 21 16:18:50 2009
From: arvidj at visi.com (Arvid Jedlicka)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 17:18:50 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Large readout replacement digital displays ...
Message-ID: <9692D169F62249EFA54F5A6587483938@behavioral.com>

If I recall correctly there was an email a few months ago that had a link to a
source for replacement digital readouts for calipers, etc. And I would not be
writing the email if I could find the darn thing. So if happen to have better
luck finding it than I have - would you please send it to me.

Thanks,
Arvid

From eric at megageek.com  Tue Sep 22 09:12:06 2009
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 11:12:06 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Brake squeal
Message-ID: <OF299ECA01.89005556-ON85257639.00538199-85257639.0053819E@mail.megageek.com>

OK, my truck's brakes are squealing like they need to be replaced.  So I
pulled the tires to check them and they are less than 1/4 worn (and nowhere
near the metal indictor.)

So I don't know what else to be looking at.  Note, this is for a 2001 Ford
Explorer and this is the truck that sat for a year while I was in Iraq.

So the question is, can the brake pads "wear" or "degenerate" without the
truck being used?  Should I just replace all the brake pads (even though
they look basically new.)

Or is it just that brake pads now start squealing so much earlier because
people put off maintainance that long?

Or is there something else I should be looking at?

Thanks.



Moose
Everything I know about knots, I learned from Alexander the Great.

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Sep 22 10:40:41 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 16:40:41 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Brake squeal
In-Reply-To: <OF299ECA01.89005556-ON85257639.00538199-85257639.0053819E@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <815040657.4079071253637641233.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

re: "So the question is, can the brake pads "wear" or "degenerate" without the truck being used?" 


Not likely. My guess is your rotors have rusted and/or you need some anti-squeal shims or paste. 


bs 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: eric at megageek.com 
To: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net 
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 8:12:06 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: [Shop-talk] Brake squeal 

OK, my truck's brakes are squealing like they need to be replaced. So I 
pulled the tires to check them and they are less than 1/4 worn (and nowhere 
near the metal indictor.) 

So I don't know what else to be looking at. Note, this is for a 2001 Ford 
Explorer and this is the truck that sat for a year while I was in Iraq. 

So the question is, can the brake pads "wear" or "degenerate" without the 
truck being used? Should I just replace all the brake pads (even though 
they look basically new.) 

Or is it just that brake pads now start squealing so much earlier because 
people put off maintainance that long? 

Or is there something else I should be looking at? 

Thanks. 



Moose 
Everything I know about knots, I learned from Alexander the Great. 

From crothfuss at coastalnet.com  Tue Sep 22 11:07:01 2009
From: crothfuss at coastalnet.com (crothfuss at coastalnet.com)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 13:07:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Brake squeal
Message-ID: <6107396.1253639221985.JavaMail.root@elwamui-mouette.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

   Did you look at the face of the pads?  I've seen several that squeeled because they had what looked like thin smears of steel stuck in the surface.  (sometimes 1/4" wide an 1/2" long)  Sand pads on a flat surface (dispose of the dust properly) and try them again.  Likely it's just some normal brake rust patina crud that's built up and creating a squeel.

Chuck  



-----Original Message-----
>From: eric at megageek.com
>Sent: Sep 22, 2009 11:12 AM
>To: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net
>Subject: [Shop-talk] Brake squeal
>
>OK, my truck's brakes are squealing like they need to be replaced.  So I
>pulled the tires to check them and they are less than 1/4 worn (and nowhere
>near the metal indictor.)

From jamesf at groupwbench.org  Tue Sep 22 11:18:01 2009
From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 13:18:01 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Brake squeal
In-Reply-To: <OF299ECA01.89005556-ON85257639.00538199-85257639.0053819E@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF299ECA01.89005556-ON85257639.00538199-85257639.0053819E@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <90230BC7-9B01-42D5-8980-50912FA2FD5D@groupwbench.org>

On Sep 22, 2009, at 11:12 AM, Eric at megageek.com wrote:
>
>
> So I don't know what else to be looking at.  Note, this is for a  
> 2001 Ford
> Explorer and this is the truck that sat for a year while I was in  
> Iraq.

The rotors probably rusted and accumulated a bunch of cruft from not  
being used. First applicationof the brakes wiped it all off and coated  
the pads with it.

Clean the pads and rotors with some brake cleaner and then sand pads  
in a figure 8 to roughen up the surface a bit and remove any oxidation  
that may have formed on them.

jim

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Sep 22 12:15:05 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 11:15:05 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Brake squeal
In-Reply-To: <90230BC7-9B01-42D5-8980-50912FA2FD5D@groupwbench.org>
References: <OF299ECA01.89005556-ON85257639.00538199-85257639.0053819E@mail.megageek.com>
	<90230BC7-9B01-42D5-8980-50912FA2FD5D@groupwbench.org>
Message-ID: <009E6A90C0BA4ABD92A2E69637D9797C@jdnet.deere.com>

> Clean the pads and rotors with some brake cleaner and then sand pads
> in a figure 8 to roughen up the surface a bit and remove any oxidation
> that may have formed on them.

I agree.  Also wouldn't hurt to file just a bit of a angle on the leading
edge of the pads; and maybe break the glaze on the rotors.

-- Randall 

From mark at nashvilletn.org  Tue Sep 22 13:29:53 2009
From: mark at nashvilletn.org (Mark)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 14:29:53 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Brake squeal
References: <OF299ECA01.89005556-ON85257639.00538199-85257639.0053819E@mail.megageek.com><90230BC7-9B01-42D5-8980-50912FA2FD5D@groupwbench.org>
	<009E6A90C0BA4ABD92A2E69637D9797C@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <0F00BED753794D588B4A11DD4CB2E0D4@CT>

What do you all do to 'break the glaze"?   I have tried sandpaper, wire brush
and an old pad but it never seems to do much good.

Mark

I agree.  Also wouldn't hurt to file just a bit of a angle on the leading
edge of the pads; and maybe break the glaze on the rotors.

-- Randall
_______________________________________________

From crothfuss at coastalnet.com  Tue Sep 22 14:04:41 2009
From: crothfuss at coastalnet.com (crothfuss at coastalnet.com)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 16:04:41 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Brake squeal
Message-ID: <7026086.1253649881731.JavaMail.root@elwamui-mouette.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Mark,

   I use two 80 grit adhesive sanding discs stuck together.  The back one keeps them in place on the bench while you sand the face of the pad.  You'll see it get dull in the places where you've sanded pretty quick.  You want to be sure your base surface is flat when you do this.  It doesn't take much off, but it can make a world of difference.

Chuck 

-----Original Message-----
>From: Mark <mark at nashvilletn.org>
>Sent: Sep 22, 2009 3:29 PM
>To: 'Shop Talk' <shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net>
>Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Brake squeal
>
>What do you all do to 'break the glaze"?   I have tried sandpaper, wire brush
>and an old pad but it never seems to do much good.
>
>Mark
>
>I agree.  Also wouldn't hurt to file just a bit of a angle on the leading
>edge of the pads; and maybe break the glaze on the rotors.
>
>-- Randall
>_______________________________________________
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>You are subscribed as crothfuss at coastalnet.com
>
>Shop-talk mailing list
>
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

From chad at linuxeg.com  Tue Sep 22 14:19:46 2009
From: chad at linuxeg.com (Chad on LEG)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 16:19:46 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Brake squeal
In-Reply-To: <0F00BED753794D588B4A11DD4CB2E0D4@CT>
References: <OF299ECA01.89005556-ON85257639.00538199-85257639.0053819E@mail.megageek.com><90230BC7-9B01-42D5-8980-50912FA2FD5D@groupwbench.org>
	<009E6A90C0BA4ABD92A2E69637D9797C@jdnet.deere.com>
	<0F00BED753794D588B4A11DD4CB2E0D4@CT>
Message-ID: <4AB93162.60803@linuxeg.com>

I use on if these and it does the job, also good for flywheels.
Cost is a little high but lasts a long time.
chad

http://www.goodson.com/store/template/product_detail.php?IID=121&SID=1ddbaff842167ed636820419d9e6891a 



Mark wrote:
> What do you all do to 'break the glaze"?   I have tried sandpaper, wire brush
> and an old pad but it never seems to do much good.
>
> Mark
>
> I agree.  Also wouldn't hurt to file just a bit of a angle on the leading
> edge of the pads; and maybe break the glaze on the rotors.
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as chad at linuxeg.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Sep 22 14:52:14 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 13:52:14 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Brake squeal
In-Reply-To: <0F00BED753794D588B4A11DD4CB2E0D4@CT>
References: <OF299ECA01.89005556-ON85257639.00538199-85257639.0053819E@mail.megageek.com><90230BC7-9B01-42D5-8980-50912FA2FD5D@groupwbench.org><009E6A90C0BA4ABD92A2E69637D9797C@jdnet.deere.com>
	<0F00BED753794D588B4A11DD4CB2E0D4@CT>
Message-ID: <2E4E90EEC6BE48238F2D4143619FF004@jdnet.deere.com>

> What do you all do to 'break the glaze"?   

In the past, I've used 150 grit silicon carbide cloth, eg,
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93583
Works, but it's kind of tedious.  Found some of these
http://tinyurl.com/m2ade2
to try next time.

-- Randall 

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Tue Sep 22 15:05:23 2009
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 17:05:23 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Brake squeal
In-Reply-To: <815040657.4079071253637641233.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <OF299ECA01.89005556-ON85257639.00538199-85257639.0053819E@mail.megageek.com>
	<815040657.4079071253637641233.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <2400a5d40909221405h5d2c9dcatec5521eafed40507@mail.gmail.com>

On Tue, Sep 22, 2009 at 12:40 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> re: "So the question is, can the brake pads "wear" or "degenerate" without
> the truck being used?"
>
>
> Not likely. My guess is your rotors have rusted and/or you need some
> anti-squeal shims or paste.
>
>
I'm lazy.  I'd hope it goes away in a week or three.

-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From mark at sccaprepared.com  Wed Sep 23 07:32:49 2009
From: mark at sccaprepared.com (Mark Andy)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 09:32:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Brake squeal
In-Reply-To: <2400a5d40909221405h5d2c9dcatec5521eafed40507@mail.gmail.com>
References: <OF299ECA01.89005556-ON85257639.00538199-85257639.0053819E@mail.megageek.com>
	<815040657.4079071253637641233.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<2400a5d40909221405h5d2c9dcatec5521eafed40507@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0909230932240.20552@thunder.banklogic.net>

Howdy,

On Tue, 22 Sep 2009, David Scheidt wrote:
>> re: "So the question is, can the brake pads "wear" or "degenerate" without
>> the truck being used?"
>>
>>
>> Not likely. My guess is your rotors have rusted and/or you need some
>> anti-squeal shims or paste.
>>
>>
> I'm lazy.  I'd hope it goes away in a week or three.

Yep.

Coupled with some hard braking.

Mark

From jniolon at bham.rr.com  Wed Sep 23 10:08:32 2009
From: jniolon at bham.rr.com (john niolon)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 11:08:32 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] stripping large wire
Message-ID: <194FFD64448D4298B0D0FA16E6825396@niolon>

I've got to do some wiring using large gauge wire 2/0 and 4/0 with several 
terminations....  I've got wire strippers for the normal #10 thru #14 stuff 
but need a way to safely strip this big stuff...  a pocket knife will do it 
but history proves it will also slice your thumb like a ripe peach...  can't 
seem to find anything online... what do you guys suggest...?????

thanks
John


You cannot help the poor by destroying the rich.
You cannot strengthen the weak by weakening the strong.
You cannot bring about prosperity by discouraging thrift.
You cannot lift the wage earner up by pulling the wage payer down
You cannot further the brotherhood of man by inciting class hatred.
You cannot build character and courage by taking away people's initiative 
and independence.
You cannot help people permanently by doing for them, what they could and 
should do for themselves.
William J. H. Boetcker 

From pat at hornesystemstx.com  Wed Sep 23 10:30:58 2009
From: pat at hornesystemstx.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 11:30:58 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] stripping large wire
In-Reply-To: <194FFD64448D4298B0D0FA16E6825396@niolon>
References: <194FFD64448D4298B0D0FA16E6825396@niolon>
Message-ID: <4ABA4D42.6090104@hornesystemstx.com>

John,

I use a very sharp razor knife. Most folks who are not familiar with 
stripping wire try to cur straight into the insulation, down to the 
wire. This can nick the wire, causing the possibility of the conductor 
failing. The correct way is to pretend you are whittling a stick, cut 
out pieces of insulation lengthwise on the wire, repeating the cuts 
until you are down to the wire. It doesn't look as good as cutting the 
insulation straight, but it protects the  wire more. If you prefer the 
sharp edge look, cut straight down, but not all the way to the wire. Use 
a pair of pliers to bend and twist the insulation until it breaks free 
of the rest, then pull it off.

Since you say that you have only a few connections to make, it is 
probably not worth the expense to purchase a large wire stripper. There 
is another type of stripper that I have used over the years that uses a 
piece of nichrome wire and a transformer. Heat up the nichrome wire and 
press it against the insulation. It will melt through the insulation, 
down to the wire. You can then make a single lengthwise cut so that the 
insulation can be peeled off. Again, the time taken to build such a 
stripper would be much longer than just stripping the wire with a knife.

Peace,
Pat

Thusly spake john niolon, On 9/23/2009 11:08 AM:
> I've got to do some wiring using large gauge wire 2/0 and 4/0 with several 
> terminations....  I've got wire strippers for the normal #10 thru #14 stuff 
> but need a way to safely strip this big stuff...  a pocket knife will do it 
> but history proves it will also slice your thumb like a ripe peach...  can't 
> seem to find anything online... what do you guys suggest...?????
>
> thanks
> John
>
>
> You cannot help the poor by destroying the rich.
> You cannot strengthen the weak by weakening the strong.
> You cannot bring about prosperity by discouraging thrift.
> You cannot lift the wage earner up by pulling the wage payer down
> You cannot further the brotherhood of man by inciting class hatred.
> You cannot build character and courage by taking away people's initiative 
> and independence.
> You cannot help people permanently by doing for them, what they could and 
> should do for themselves.
> William J. H. Boetcker 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as pat at hornesystemstx.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>
>   

-- 
Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems 
(512) 797-7501 Voice		5026 FM 2001
Pat at HorneSystemsTx.com	Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
www.hornesystemstx.com
-- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --

From arvidj at visi.com  Wed Sep 23 10:53:45 2009
From: arvidj at visi.com (Arvid Jedlicka)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 11:53:45 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] stripping large wire
References: <194FFD64448D4298B0D0FA16E6825396@niolon>
Message-ID: <065A8B358B00495E9E6C690921407DA6@behavioral.com>

My limited experience has been to us a new blade in a utility cutter. A new 
sharp blade gave me the control necessary to cut -> almost <- all the way 
thru the insulation all the way around the wire at the proper location and 
then make a cut -> almost <- all the way thru the insulation from there to 
the end of the wire. Then physically rip the insulation along those cuts. 
Probably not the official or efficient way to do it but it worked the few 
times that I needed it and did not nick or damage the wire in any way.

And I agree, using a dull blade will turn it into minor surgery in a hurry.

Arvid

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "john niolon" <jniolon at bham.rr.com>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 11:08 AM
Subject: [Shop-talk] stripping large wire


> I've got to do some wiring using large gauge wire 2/0 and 4/0 with several
> terminations....  I've got wire strippers for the normal #10 thru #14 
> stuff
> but need a way to safely strip this big stuff...  a pocket knife will do 
> it
> but history proves it will also slice your thumb like a ripe peach... 
> can't
> seem to find anything online... what do you guys suggest...?????
>
> thanks
> John

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Sep 23 12:05:13 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 11:05:13 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] stripping large wire
In-Reply-To: <4ABA4D42.6090104@hornesystemstx.com>
References: <194FFD64448D4298B0D0FA16E6825396@niolon>
	<4ABA4D42.6090104@hornesystemstx.com>
Message-ID: <2965559C25C44E3C9962599A4A56AFBF@jdnet.deere.com>

> The correct way is 
> to pretend you are whittling a stick, cut out pieces of 
> insulation lengthwise on the wire, repeating the cuts until 
> you are down to the wire.

I agree.  And if you keep your thumb on the opposite side of the wire, the
knife can't get to it to cut.  But for 2/0, you can probably hold it like a
piece of wood and whittle away from your hand instead of towards it.

-- Randall  

From mark at sccaprepared.com  Wed Sep 23 13:40:49 2009
From: mark at sccaprepared.com (Mark Andy)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 15:40:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] stripping large wire
In-Reply-To: <194FFD64448D4298B0D0FA16E6825396@niolon>
References: <194FFD64448D4298B0D0FA16E6825396@niolon>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0909231540120.29526@thunder.banklogic.net>

Howdy,

On Wed, 23 Sep 2009, john niolon wrote:
> I've got to do some wiring using large gauge wire 2/0 and 4/0 with 
> several terminations....  I've got wire strippers for the normal #10 
> thru #14 stuff but need a way to safely strip this big stuff...  a 
> pocket knife will do it but history proves it will also slice your thumb 
> like a ripe peach...  can't seem to find anything online... what do you 
> guys suggest...?????

Be more careful with the pocket knife.

:-)

Seriously, I use a standard razor knife for this.

Mark

From rs1121 at earthlink.net  Wed Sep 23 14:40:45 2009
From: rs1121 at earthlink.net (Ron Schmittou)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 15:40:45 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] stripping large wire
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0909231540120.29526@thunder.banklogic.net>
References: <194FFD64448D4298B0D0FA16E6825396@niolon>
	<Pine.LNX.4.64.0909231540120.29526@thunder.banklogic.net>
Message-ID: <041101ca3c8e$20665380$6132fa80$@net>

Just dip the end you want stripped into liquid nitrogen for 15 sec then
whack against the floor.

C-Ya

Ron 

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Andy
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 2:41 PM
To: shop-talk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] stripping large wire

Howdy,

On Wed, 23 Sep 2009, john niolon wrote:
> I've got to do some wiring using large gauge wire 2/0 and 4/0 with 
> several terminations....  I've got wire strippers for the normal #10 
> thru #14 stuff but need a way to safely strip this big stuff...  a 
> pocket knife will do it but history proves it will also slice your thumb 
> like a ripe peach...  can't seem to find anything online... what do you 
> guys suggest...?????

Be more careful with the pocket knife.

:-)

Seriously, I use a standard razor knife for this.

Mark
You are subscribed as rs1121 at earthlink.net

Shop-talk mailing list

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk

http://www.team.net/archive

From cyberlaw at earthlink.net  Wed Sep 23 14:45:24 2009
From: cyberlaw at earthlink.net (Steven T. Ekstrand)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 13:45:24 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] stripping large wire
In-Reply-To: <041101ca3c8e$20665380$6132fa80$@net>
References: <194FFD64448D4298B0D0FA16E6825396@niolon>
	<Pine.LNX.4.64.0909231540120.29526@thunder.banklogic.net>
	<041101ca3c8e$20665380$6132fa80$@net>
Message-ID: <4ABA88E4.5010300@earthlink.net>

Use a mini tube/pipe cutter then a straight razor to make a longitudinal 
cut.  Peel off the sheathing.  Done.

From shochschild at att.net  Wed Sep 23 15:29:57 2009
From: shochschild at att.net (shochschild at att.net)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 16:29:57 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] stripping large wire
In-Reply-To: <4ABA88E4.5010300@earthlink.net>
References: <194FFD64448D4298B0D0FA16E6825396@niolon>
	<Pine.LNX.4.64.0909231540120.29526@thunder.banklogic.net>
	<041101ca3c8e$20665380$6132fa80$@net> <4ABA88E4.5010300@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <4ABA9355.3080105@att.net>

a real man would pull it off with his teeth...

From jniolon at bham.rr.com  Wed Sep 23 15:48:34 2009
From: jniolon at bham.rr.com (john niolon)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 16:48:34 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] stripping large wire
References: <194FFD64448D4298B0D0FA16E6825396@niolon><Pine.LNX.4.64.0909231540120.29526@thunder.banklogic.net><041101ca3c8e$20665380$6132fa80$@net>
	<4ABA88E4.5010300@earthlink.net> <4ABA9355.3080105@att.net>
Message-ID: <4E4F0660D4934DB2B4E659186464E47B@niolon>

well , thanks for all the replies... liquid nitrogen...teeth pulling and 
all... guess I'll try the utility knife with the blade somewhat retracted 
and see what happens... my next try will be with a "V" type cutter and 
finally the tubing cutter.... the last sounds the easiest to me...   reports 
from the emergency room to follow...

later
John
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <shochschild at att.net>
To: <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 4:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] stripping large wire


>a real man would pull it off with his teeth...
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as jniolon at bham.rr.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive


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05:52:00

From kennedybc at comcast.net  Wed Sep 23 16:27:48 2009
From: kennedybc at comcast.net (Brian Kennedy)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 15:27:48 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] stripping large wire
In-Reply-To: <4E4F0660D4934DB2B4E659186464E47B@niolon>
Message-ID: <C6DFEEF4.4755%kennedybc@comcast.net>

This has nothing to do with wirestripping, but the use of the jacknife
reminded me of this story. My daughter called a few years ago to tell me her
car wouldn't start, she'd left the lights on. I instructed her to open the
hood, turn on the lights which would be dim, take her Swiss Army knife's
large blade, jam it between the battery post and the cable, bend the knife,
cut your finger. Then, try again and when the lights get bright, turn them
off and start the car. Five minutes later she called back and said "I'll
finish the job after I find a band aid."

Brian


On 9/23/09 2:48 PM, "john niolon" <jniolon at bham.rr.com> wrote:

> well , thanks for all the replies... liquid nitrogen...teeth pulling and
> all... guess I'll try the utility knife with the blade somewhat retracted
> and see what happens... my next try will be with a "V" type cutter and
> finally the tubing cutter.... the last sounds the easiest to me...   reports
> from the emergency room to follow...
> 
> later
> John
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <shochschild at att.net>
> To: <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 4:29 PM
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] stripping large wire
> 
> 
>> a real man would pull it off with his teeth...
>> _____

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Sep 23 16:46:15 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 15:46:15 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] stripping large wire
In-Reply-To: <C6DFEEF4.4755%kennedybc@comcast.net>
References: <4E4F0660D4934DB2B4E659186464E47B@niolon>
	<C6DFEEF4.4755%kennedybc@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <B99CE13B984B4A53A85C81063CAE4D6F@jdnet.deere.com>

> jam it between the battery post and the cable, bend 
> the knife, cut your finger.

It's simply amazing how often the job goes better after a blood sacrifice!

-- Randall  

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Wed Sep 23 17:30:32 2009
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 18:30:32 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] FW: [TR]  stripping large wire
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W326772748055E82866E3CE1DB0@phx.gbl>
References: <194FFD64448D4298B0D0FA16E6825396@niolon><Pine.LNX.4.64.0909231540120.29526@thunder.banklogic.net><041101ca3c8e$20665380$6132fa80$@net>
	<4ABA88E4.5010300@earthlink.net> <4ABA9355.3080105@att.net>  
Message-ID: <BAY123-W39D35CC0E935A01DBC340AE1DB0@phx.gbl>

I sent this to the wrong list...

It has been a long day!




Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA

'63 TR3B TCF587L

That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

See it moves!




> From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 18:26:49 -0500
> Subject: Re: [TR] [Shop-talk] stripping large wire
>
> Be careful not to nick the wire with the pipe cutter. If you cut a ring
> around the conductor you increase the likely hood that it will bread and
you
> decrease the electrical carrying capabilities of the wire.
>
>
> Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
> '63 TR3B TCF587L
> That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!
> See it moves!
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From doug at dougbraun.com  Wed Sep 23 19:53:04 2009
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 18:53:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Handy web site: Dictionary of Automotive Terms
Message-ID: <499521.69010.qm@web606.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I just stumbled across this:

http://www.motorera.com/dictionary/

Doug

From dhlocker at comcast.net  Wed Sep 23 19:54:28 2009
From: dhlocker at comcast.net (Donald H Locker)
Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2009 01:54:28 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Shop-talk] stripping large wire
In-Reply-To: <957789962.4904381253757219328.JavaMail.root@sz0052a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <816727783.4904721253757268579.JavaMail.root@sz0052a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Hi, John.

A utility knife with a hook blade can be used to cut the insulation parallel to the lay of the wires, then fold the flap of insulation back and use the hook blade around.

HTH,
Donald.
----- Original Message -----
From: "john niolon" <jniolon at bham.rr.com>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 12:08:32 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: [Shop-talk] stripping large wire

I've got to do some wiring using large gauge wire 2/0 and 4/0 with several 
terminations....  I've got wire strippers for the normal #10 thru #14 stuff 
but need a way to safely strip this big stuff...  a pocket knife will do it 
but history proves it will also slice your thumb like a ripe peach...  can't 
seem to find anything online... what do you guys suggest...?????

thanks
John


You cannot help the poor by destroying the rich.
You cannot strengthen the weak by weakening the strong.
You cannot bring about prosperity by discouraging thrift.
You cannot lift the wage earner up by pulling the wage payer down
You cannot further the brotherhood of man by inciting class hatred.
You cannot build character and courage by taking away people's initiative 
and independence.
You cannot help people permanently by doing for them, what they could and 
should do for themselves.
William J. H. Boetcker 

From mark at sccaprepared.com  Wed Sep 23 21:12:53 2009
From: mark at sccaprepared.com (Mark Andy)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 23:12:53 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] stripping large wire
In-Reply-To: <4E4F0660D4934DB2B4E659186464E47B@niolon>
References: <194FFD64448D4298B0D0FA16E6825396@niolon><Pine.LNX.4.64.0909231540120.29526@thunder.banklogic.net><041101ca3c8e$20665380$6132fa80$@net>
	<4ABA88E4.5010300@earthlink.net> <4ABA9355.3080105@att.net>
	<4E4F0660D4934DB2B4E659186464E47B@niolon>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0909232310170.12634@thunder.banklogic.net>

Howdy,

On Wed, 23 Sep 2009, john niolon wrote:
> well , thanks for all the replies... liquid nitrogen...teeth pulling and 
> all... guess I'll try the utility knife with the blade somewhat 
> retracted and see what happens... my next try will be with a "V" type 
> cutter and finally the tubing cutter.... the last sounds the easiest to 
> me...  reports from the emergency room to follow...

Actually, I find a regular razor blade to be the best... New/sharp.  Just 
press it into the insulation lightly, and roll it around.  It doesn't take 
much pressure.

Mark

From paul.mele at usermail.com  Thu Sep 24 05:35:05 2009
From: paul.mele at usermail.com (Paul Mele)
Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2009 07:35:05 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] stripping large wire
In-Reply-To: <4E4F0660D4934DB2B4E659186464E47B@niolon>
References: <194FFD64448D4298B0D0FA16E6825396@niolon><Pine.LNX.4.64.0909231540120.29526@thunder.banklogic.net><041101ca3c8e$20665380$6132fa80$@net>
	<4ABA88E4.5010300@earthlink.net> <4ABA9355.3080105@att.net>
	<4E4F0660D4934DB2B4E659186464E47B@niolon>
Message-ID: <000e01ca3d0b$1287ba60$37972f20$@mele@usermail.com>

reports 
from the emergency room to follow...



safest place to cut your thumb is on the far-half of the pad, up to the nail
margins; stay away from the midline back and front near the joint (flexor
and extensor tendons; nail germinal matrix)
ask for Marcaine, instead of lidocaine; takes a little  longer , but lasts
much longer
also, check with family MD for last tetanus date; they'll want to know.

PM

From scott.hall at comcast.net  Fri Sep 25 08:10:50 2009
From: scott.hall at comcast.net (scott.hall at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 14:10:50 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Shop-talk] building computer shelf
In-Reply-To: <194FFD64448D4298B0D0FA16E6825396@niolon>
Message-ID: <2070722999.7067011253887850324.JavaMail.root@sz0146a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Only shop related in that I'm using my personal tools to do the job. But you people have proven yourselves too competent in the past (MJB, I'm using your air tank filling idea exactly as you had it in the picture, thanks) not to ask. Sorry. 

I have a new laptop with docking station (Lenovo ThinkPad, because someone will ask). 

Old one was on floor under desk. Want this one off the floor lest it get kicked. Initial idea to build fixed shelf for docking station under desk, affixed to vertical desk supports and/or underside of desk top. 

Better (geekier) plan: build large sliding tray that will slide out from under desk, enabling me to drop ThinkPad into docking station (it drops in from the top, not slides in from the side) so I don't have to bend over or crawl on the floor to dock the computer. 

So, am about to go procure heavy-duty sliding rails and build what amounts to a three-sided drawer (no front, back just to add rigidity to tray) and affix it to the underside of the desk top with angle brackets. 

However, you guys know everything. Anybody got a better idea? 

Thanks. 

Scott 

From matt.lists at trebelhorn.com  Fri Sep 25 08:59:42 2009
From: matt.lists at trebelhorn.com (Matt Trebelhorn)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 10:59:42 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Annapolis area -- need an engine hoist next week
Message-ID: <BD0AFAF0-2212-4555-A0AD-4A8E36D867D9@trebelhorn.com>

I'm picking up a project car, and I need an engine hoist to get the  
engine off the floor and into the back of a truck.  The car is an E- 
Type Jaguar; the engine weighs about as much as the sun.

Any suggestions on local places to rent an engine hoist for a half- 
day -- or is anyone local, so equipped, and free this thursday night?

Many thanks
Matt

From eric at megageek.com  Fri Sep 25 08:50:56 2009
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 10:50:56 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Annapolis area -- need an engine hoist next  week
Message-ID: <OFA6DED164.99940A55-ON8525763C.0051917C-8525763C.00519181@mail.megageek.com>

I have a brand new gantry crane (1 ton) that you can buy for a song.  I'm
in NJ however.  Comes with a 2 ton trolley and a 1300lbs electric winch.

Here are the links to the HF items.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=2954
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=40493
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=41188

They are all pretty new (and garage kept.)
Together they would cost $880 bucks.  I'll sell all of them for $500 if you
are interested.

Moose
Everything I know about knots, I learned from Alexander the Great.



-----shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net wrote: -----


To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>, shoptalk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
From: Matt Trebelhorn <matt.lists at trebelhorn.com>
Sent by: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: 09/25/2009 10:59
Subject: [Shop-talk] Annapolis area -- need an engine hoist next week

I'm picking up a project car, and I need an engine hoist to get the
engine off the floor and into the back of a truck.  The car is an E-
Type Jaguar; the engine weighs about as much as the sun.

Any suggestions on local places to rent an engine hoist for a half-
day -- or is anyone local, so equipped, and free this thursday night?

Many thanks
Matt
You are subscribed as eric at megageek.com

Shop-talk mailing list

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk

http://www.team.net/archive

From matt.lists at trebelhorn.com  Fri Sep 25 09:36:34 2009
From: matt.lists at trebelhorn.com (Matt Trebelhorn)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 11:36:34 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Annapolis area -- need an engine hoist next  week
In-Reply-To: <OFA6DED164.99940A55-ON8525763C.0051917C-8525763C.00519181@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OFA6DED164.99940A55-ON8525763C.0051917C-8525763C.00519181@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <D97D8A88-BE30-49A2-88F8-0BCBC31D9471@trebelhorn.com>

Wow!  That looks like some serious equipment.  More than I have need/ 
room for, though, and NJ would tack several hundred miles on to my trip.

Perhaps I exaggerated the weight of the engine a little bit.  I was  
cross-posting to the MG list, where most of the engines in question  
can be picked up by hand by one or two guys... I think the XK motor  
weighs something like 600 lbs.

Matt

On 25 Sep, 2009, at 10:50 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote:

> I have a brand new gantry crane (1 ton) that you can buy for a  
> song.  I'm
> in NJ however.  Comes with a 2 ton trolley and a 1300lbs electric  
> winch.
>
> Here are the links to the HF items.
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=2954
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=40493
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=41188
>
> They are all pretty new (and garage kept.)
> Together they would cost $880 bucks.  I'll sell all of them for  
> $500 if you
> are interested.
>
> Moose
> Everything I know about knots, I learned from Alexander the Great.
>
>
>
> -----shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net wrote: -----
>
>
> To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>, shoptalk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> From: Matt Trebelhorn <matt.lists at trebelhorn.com>
> Sent by: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
> Date: 09/25/2009 10:59
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Annapolis area -- need an engine hoist next week
>
> I'm picking up a project car, and I need an engine hoist to get the
> engine off the floor and into the back of a truck.  The car is an E-
> Type Jaguar; the engine weighs about as much as the sun.
>
> Any suggestions on local places to rent an engine hoist for a half-
> day -- or is anyone local, so equipped, and free this thursday night?
>
> Many thanks
> Matt
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as eric at megageek.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From gpd4 at juno.com  Fri Sep 25 09:37:26 2009
From: gpd4 at juno.com (gpd4)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 11:37:26 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Annapolis area -- need an engine hoist next  week
Message-ID: <20090925.083922.25779.252061@mailpop07.vgs.untd.com>

Do you need any more project cars???  While you're in the area I have (2)
XJ6Cs that need to find a new home ASAP.
Is the engine on a dolly of an type or just laying on the ground?
 
On Fri, 25 Sep 2009 10:59:42 -0400 Matt Trebelhorn
<matt.lists at trebelhorn.com> writes:
> I'm picking up a project car, and I need an engine hoist to get the  
> 
> engine off the floor and into the back of a truck.  The car is an E- 
> 
> Type Jaguar; the engine weighs about as much as the sun.
> 
> Any suggestions on local places to rent an engine hoist for a half- 
> 
> day -- or is anyone local, so equipped, and free this thursday 
> night?
> 
> Many thanks
> Matt
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> You are subscribed as gpd4 at juno.com
> 
> Shop-talk mailing list
> 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
 
____________________________________________________________
Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTFoYbCmkMQAtcTPD7nRMTISWVtrNARMAZYRggkVGeVRfgNfnESkec/

From matt.lists at trebelhorn.com  Fri Sep 25 09:50:14 2009
From: matt.lists at trebelhorn.com (Matt Trebelhorn)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 11:50:14 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Annapolis area -- need an engine hoist next  week
In-Reply-To: <20090925.083922.25779.252061@mailpop07.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20090925.083922.25779.252061@mailpop07.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <19B550E1-040F-469D-945F-25D19FA4DEFA@trebelhorn.com>

The engine is on a mover's dolly -- wood platform with casters.

I've always liked the XJ6C -- really pretty car.  But sadly, I can't  
take them -- don't have the trailer space, don't have the garage  
space... and I've already got a project Jag.

Matt

On 25 Sep, 2009, at 11:37 AM, gpd4 wrote:

> Do you need any more project cars???  While you're in the area I  
> have (2)
> XJ6Cs that need to find a new home ASAP.
> Is the engine on a dolly of an type or just laying on the ground?
>
> On Fri, 25 Sep 2009 10:59:42 -0400 Matt Trebelhorn
> <matt.lists at trebelhorn.com> writes:
>> I'm picking up a project car, and I need an engine hoist to get the
>>
>> engine off the floor and into the back of a truck.  The car is an E-
>>
>> Type Jaguar; the engine weighs about as much as the sun.
>>
>> Any suggestions on local places to rent an engine hoist for a half-
>>
>> day -- or is anyone local, so equipped, and free this thursday
>> night?
>>
>> Many thanks
>> Matt
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> You are subscribed as gpd4 at juno.com
>>
>> Shop-talk mailing list
>>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Obama Raises Pell Grants
> Get Your Degree with Government Grants and Scholarships!
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=2d- 
> dWa9Lx1DhvIhcqxRoTAAAJ1BWdaWF231Ezf9cmf_ph6jCAAQAAAAFAAAAAObuAD8AAAMqA 
> AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABI2RwAAAAA=

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Fri Sep 25 09:52:21 2009
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 11:52:21 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] building computer shelf
In-Reply-To: <2070722999.7067011253887850324.JavaMail.root@sz0146a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <2070722999.7067011253887850324.JavaMail.root@sz0146a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <FBF0553F6A034B2799ECB43D16A65747@EricJRussellPC>

Sounds like a fine plan to me. How heavy duty do the drawer guides need to 
be? You can buy 'keyboard drawer slides" with angle brackets attached. Rated 
for 75 lbs.
http://woodworker.com/8100-16keyboard-75poly-mssu-800-796.asp

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell
----- Original Message ----- 
>
> Better (geekier) plan: build large sliding tray that will slide out from 
> under desk, enabling me to drop ThinkPad into docking station (it drops in 
> from the top, not slides in from the side) so I don't have to bend over or 
> crawl on the floor to dock the computer.
>
> So, am about to go procure heavy-duty sliding rails and build what amounts 
> to a three-sided drawer (no front, back just to add rigidity to tray) and 
> affix it to the underside of the desk top with angle brackets.

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Fri Sep 25 09:58:56 2009
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 11:58:56 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] building computer shelf
In-Reply-To: <FBF0553F6A034B2799ECB43D16A65747@EricJRussellPC>
References: <2070722999.7067011253887850324.JavaMail.root@sz0146a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<FBF0553F6A034B2799ECB43D16A65747@EricJRussellPC>
Message-ID: <2400a5d40909250858r1ec5406cm9faf20cd032d7055@mail.gmail.com>

On Fri, Sep 25, 2009 at 11:52 AM, Eric J Russell <ejrussell at mebtel.net>wrote:

> Sounds like a fine plan to me. How heavy duty do the drawer guides need to
> be? You can buy 'keyboard drawer slides" with angle brackets attached. Rated
> for 75 lbs.
> http://woodworker.com/8100-16keyboard-75poly-mssu-800-796.asp
>
>
Make sure you've got enough cable length to slide the thing in and out.
-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From cavanadd at verizon.net  Mon Sep 28 21:06:17 2009
From: cavanadd at verizon.net (David C.)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 20:06:17 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Pressure blasters?
Message-ID: <4AC179A9.2060701@verizon.net>

Has anyone used one of the Harbor Freight variety of pressure
sandblasters?  I have an old Unisaw that I am restoring and I need to
blast the cabinet, base and some other parts.  Most of the guts will fit
in my blasting cabinet, but not the big pieces.  My local media blaster
charges around $75 an hour and they aren't open on Saturdays.  In
addition, if I did the blasting at home I could go directly to the
primer coat without having to haul the parts home in the truck, in the
weather, rusting, etc.  Comments/suggestions?

Thanks
Dave C

From doug at dougbraun.com  Mon Sep 28 21:49:18 2009
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 20:49:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Pressure blasters?
In-Reply-To: <4AC179A9.2060701@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <930912.71337.qm@web601.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I have one of those (actually "Grand Rapids Industrial Products" or G.R.I.P.).
I used it to blast the frame, much of the body, and many other parts of my '31
Ford.  I used Black Beauty media, and I have a decent
2-stage 240-volt
compressor. 

I am glad I bought it.  Just be sure to get spare nozzles, and
plan to replace the cheesy valves occasionally with better ones from the
plumbing section of the hardware store.

Doug

--- On Mon, 9/28/09, David C.
<cavanadd at verizon.net> wrote:

> From: David C. <cavanadd at verizon.net>
>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Pressure blasters?
> To: "Shop Talk List"
<shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> Date: Monday, September 28, 2009, 11:06 PM
> Has
anyone used one of the Harbor
> Freight variety of pressure
> sandblasters? 

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Tue Sep 29 05:29:27 2009
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 07:29:27 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Pressure blasters?
In-Reply-To: <4AC179A9.2060701@verizon.net>
References: <4AC179A9.2060701@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20090929072426.01d73578@cox.net>

At 11:06 PM 9/28/2009, David C. wrote:

 >Has anyone used one of the Harbor Freight variety of pressure
 >sandblasters? .....

I also have one and agree with Doug.  The only problem I had with mine was
the original water trap was missing a part.  Unfortunately, the local 
store couldn't
give me just the part.  I ended up buying another water trap.

Also I've had problem with the valves also.  But if you think about 
it, it makes
sense.  I need to replace them.

You will need additional nozzels.  I have bought some of the "dead man" nozzels
from HF, for about $10.  These are a lot nicer than trying to turn 
off the valves
when you want to stop blasting for a few seconds and turn a part or something.
The only problem with them, is there is just a small rubber bladder that will
crack/break, etc.  The part is listed in the manual, I haven't tried 
to order just
the tubes.  But that might be worth doing.

John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Tue Sep 29 06:48:56 2009
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 07:48:56 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Pressure blasters?
In-Reply-To: <4AC179A9.2060701@verizon.net>
References: <4AC179A9.2060701@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W5124CE7F0B7E742F039443E1D50@phx.gbl>

Is this what you guys are talking about?



http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34202

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA

'63 TR3B TCF587L

That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

See it moves!




> Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 20:06:17 -0700
> From: cavanadd at verizon.net
> To: shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Pressure blasters?
>
> Has anyone used one of the Harbor Freight variety of pressure
> sandblasters? I have an old Unisaw that I am restoring and I need to
> blast the cabinet, base and some other parts. Most of the guts will fit
> in my blasting cabinet, but not the big pieces. My local media blaster
> charges around $75 an hour and they aren't open on Saturdays. In
> addition, if I did the blasting at home I could go directly to the
> primer coat without having to haul the parts home in the truck, in the
> weather, rusting, etc. Comments/suggestions?
>
> Thanks
> Dave C
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From doug at dougbraun.com  Tue Sep 29 07:22:14 2009
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 06:22:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Pressure blasters?
In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20090929072426.01d73578@cox.net>
Message-ID: <839989.4025.qm@web603.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I managed OK with the stock nozzle valve.  But one very nice thing I had was a
supplied-air system  it was meant for painting, but I took the air hose and
stuck it into the sandblasting hood.  It made blasting MUCH less obnoxious,
especially because the hood window would not keep fogging up.
If you are
thinking of eventually getting such a system for painting, get it now and take
advantage of it for sandblasting, too.

Another tip:  get a 12"x12" piece of
plexiglass and cut it up to make a bunch of spare hood windows.  They will get
frosted up pretty quick.

Doug


--- On Tue, 9/29/09, John T. Blair
<jblair1948 at cox.net> wrote:

> You will need additional nozzels.  I have
bought some
> of the "dead man" nozzels
> from HF, for about $10.  These are a
lot nicer than
> trying to turn off the valves
> when you want to stop
blasting for a few seconds and turn a
> part or something.
> The only problem
with them, is there is just a small rubber
> bladder that will
> crack/break,
etc.  The part is listed in the manual, I
> haven't tried to order just
> the
tubes.  But that might be worth doing.
> 
> John

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Tue Sep 29 13:13:26 2009
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 15:13:26 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Pressure blasters?
In-Reply-To: <839989.4025.qm@web603.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <6.2.5.6.1.20090929072426.01d73578@cox.net>
	<839989.4025.qm@web603.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20090929151209.01d57740@cox.net>

At 09:22 AM 9/29/2009, Doug Braun wrote:

 >Another tip:  get a 12"x12" piece of plexiglass and cut it up to 
make a bunch of
 >spare hood windows.  They will get frosted up pretty quick.

I'll second Doug's suggestion here.  But I also got some of the clear plastic
sheets (like you make the protector for a blast cabinet from) and 
made protectors
for my hood plastic/glass also.

John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Tue Sep 29 13:30:41 2009
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 15:30:41 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Pressure blasters?
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W5124CE7F0B7E742F039443E1D50@phx.gbl>
References: <4AC179A9.2060701@verizon.net>
	<BAY123-W5124CE7F0B7E742F039443E1D50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20090929152447.01d82d10@cox.net>

At 08:48 AM 9/29/2009, Rich White wrote:

 >Is this what you guys are talking about?
 >
 >http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34202

Rich,

Yup!!!

I haven't mentioned a couple of things I do:

1. I put up a piece of rope across the corner of my fence then close 
pin a large
plastic drop cloth to it.  Then when I blast, I can recycle about 80% 
of my media.
It's lasts a lot longer that way.  There's a picture of the set up in 
an article on
my Morgan Web page:

http://www.team.net/www/morgan/tech/blasting/mediablast.html

about 3/4 the way down the article.


2. I purchases some screen which I lay over the funnel.  When I 
collect my spent
media, I use a coffee can and dump it into a heavy duty 5 gal 
bucket.  Then when
it's time refill the pressure blaster, I place the screen over the 
funnel and scoup
media from the bucket with the coffee can, and then pour it through the screen.
Thus cleaning the clumps, and trash out of the sand as I fill the blaster.

John



>Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
>
>'63 TR3B TCF587L
>
>That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!
>
>See it moves!
>
>
>
>
> > Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 20:06:17 -0700
> > From: cavanadd at verizon.net
> > To: shop-talk at autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Shop-talk] Pressure blasters?
> >
> > Has anyone used one of the Harbor Freight variety of pressure
> > sandblasters? I have an old Unisaw that I am restoring and I need to
> > blast the cabinet, base and some other parts. Most of the guts will fit
> > in my blasting cabinet, but not the big pieces. My local media blaster
> > charges around $75 an hour and they aren't open on Saturdays. In
> > addition, if I did the blasting at home I could go directly to the
> > primer coat without having to haul the parts home in the truck, in the
> > weather, rusting, etc. Comments/suggestions?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Dave C
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
> >
> > Shop-talk mailing list
> >
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>You are subscribed as jblair1948 at cox.net
>
>Shop-talk mailing list
>
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From jniolon at bham.rr.com  Tue Sep 29 18:11:53 2009
From: jniolon at bham.rr.com (john niolon)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 19:11:53 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] stripping large wire - post mortum
Message-ID: <AF2AE00F5D0047F68E4062313569D11E@niolon>

Well... the best laid plans... blah blah blah

the wire turned out to be different than expected. I experimented before the 
project started to see what would work best.

Instead of a nice round wire with a nice round thick rubber/vinyl/pvc jacket 
(like SO cable) it turned out to be almost a shrink wrapped vinyl jacket. 
The 'lays' of insulated wire strands carried a 'twist' and the vinyl 
followed that twist... so a straight cut down the wire was nearly impossible 
since the area between the 'lays' of wire wrapped around the cable making a 
full circle in about 6 inches.

Trying to 'untwist' the lay was impossible since the insulation was so tight 
around the
conductors...

The tubing cutter was a no go...it only hit the high spots and was 
impossible to miss cutting the insulation on the individual conductors...

Liquid nitrogen was too expensive for this project... maybe next time we get 
a wiring job for NASA ??????

Checked with my dentist on my warranty on my partials...  seems wire 
stripping will void the warranty...go figure...

the most reliable but still tedious method was with a utility knife with 
about 3/8" blade stickout and carefully follow the void between the 
conductors... I'm glad this project is complete...

I did find that using a standard wire stripper for romex cable is great for 
4/0 wire also...just clamp judiciously and make a revolution around the wire 
and pull... clean cut and no damage to the copper or aluminum 
conductors...no whittlin' required.

I do plan on investing on a serious cable cutter with 24" handles or so.... 
my little 9" greenlees struggled on that thick hard copper... also my 
arthritic grip leaves something to be desired...

I did notice that the large cable has a nylon strip thread imbedded much 
like cat 5 cable... but it did a pathetic job and just usually broke before 
it cut the jacket...

the search continues for the next project with big ole honkin cable...

john



You cannot help the poor by destroying the rich.
You cannot strengthen the weak by weakening the strong.
You cannot bring about prosperity by discouraging thrift.
You cannot lift the wage earner up by pulling the wage payer down
You cannot further the brotherhood of man by inciting class hatred.
You cannot build character and courage by taking away people's initiative 
and independence.
You cannot help people permanently by doing for them, what they could and 
should do for themselves.
William J. H. Boetcker 

From doug at dougbraun.com  Tue Sep 29 21:56:47 2009
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 20:56:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Pressure blasters?
In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20090929152447.01d82d10@cox.net>
Message-ID: <904257.38220.qm@web601.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

That's definitely a requirement when recycling media.
I use a kitchen strainer
when refilling the blaster.

Doug

> 
> 2. I purchases some screen which I lay
over the
> funnel.  When I 
> collect my spent
> media, I use a coffee can and
dump it into a heavy duty 5
> gal 
> bucket.  Then when
> it's time refill the
pressure blaster, I place the screen
> over the 
> funnel and scoup
> media
from the bucket with the coffee can, and then pour it
> through the screen.
>
Thus cleaning the clumps, and trash out of the sand as I
> fill the blaster.
>
> John

From eric at megageek.com  Wed Sep 30 06:50:00 2009
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 08:50:00 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] More wiring questions.
Message-ID: <OF9F503ABC.25EF82AC-ON85257641.00467F1A-85257641.00467F22@mail.megageek.com>

OK, so I buried the cable to the new building.  (Note, this is a steel
frame construction building, this is an important fact later.)

I bought a junction box and was amazed to find that they don't include a
ground bar.  Why not?

So my question is this...

I have a 3 conductor (and bare ground) wire run to the new building.  This
line is coming off my subpanel in the garage.

So it's a 30amp breaker on 10/3 wire.

In the building, do I run a separate ground spike?  Or, since the building
is a steel frame (with 4X4 steel post concreted into the ground,) is the
building already grounded?

I'm only runing one bank of lights, and a few outlets.

If I do put a grounding spike in the ground, should I connect it to the box
AND the building?

I seem to remember something about a grounding loop on subpanels, but I
can't remember exactly what it was.

TIA!



Moose
b
Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b
 Ralph
Waldo Emerson

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Sep 30 09:39:39 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 09:39:39 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Pressure blasters?
In-Reply-To: <4AC179A9.2060701@verizon.net>
References: <4AC179A9.2060701@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <4AC37BBB.7070008@bradakis.com>

One quick note - if you have cats in the area, don't leave open
containers of sand around.

mjb.

From rustymetal at sbcglobal.net  Wed Sep 30 16:14:45 2009
From: rustymetal at sbcglobal.net (Frank Vantacich)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 15:14:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Pressure blasters?
In-Reply-To: <4AC37BBB.7070008@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <180174.3169.qm@web81308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Good point, that could definetly clog up your tip.

Frank V.  rustymetal at sbcglobal.net


--- On Wed, 9/30/09, Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:

> From: Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Pressure blasters?
> To: "Shop Talk List" <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> Date: Wednesday, September 30, 2009, 8:39 AM
> One quick note - if you have cats in
> the area, don't leave open
> containers of sand around.
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as rustymetal at sbcglobal.net
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Pat at HORNESYSTEMSTX.COM  Wed Sep 30 20:53:55 2009
From: Pat at HORNESYSTEMSTX.COM (Pat at HORNESYSTEMSTX.COM)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 19:53:55 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] More wiring questions.
Message-ID: <20090930195355.997a8624c2b4dae4e01298000bf07581.34bbad3566.wbe@email.secureserver.net>