From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Thu Oct  1 12:13:41 2009
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Thu, 01 Oct 2009 14:13:41 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Suggestions/
Message-ID: <A0CB247FEDBA41D7917564FAFC20792D@fred8kwiskhcfu>

I would like the lists opinion on types/weight etc. of oil used in the gearbox
W/OD and rear differential, many thanks for your help   FT

From cak at dimebank.com  Thu Oct  1 12:34:08 2009
From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2009 11:34:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Suggestions/
Message-ID: <200910011834.n91IY8bK016942@moose.dimebank.com>

Fred,

I think that "common wisdom" today is to use GL4, *not* GL5, because
the sulfur in the GL5 oils will eat away the brass and copper shim
washers, especially in the diff.

I'm a fan of RedLine no-shock for the diff.

chris

From doug at dougbraun.com  Thu Oct  1 16:36:09 2009
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2009 15:36:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Suggestions/
In-Reply-To: <200910011834.n91IY8bK016942@moose.dimebank.com>
Message-ID: <645995.22656.qm@web608.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I have Redline MT-90 in the OD transmission of my '72 Spit. One nice thing about it is that the shifting does not get too difficult in cold winter weather.

As for the diff, it has regular oil, whatever Pep Boys sells.  I have never drained it, and just top it off every couple of years.

Doug


--- On Thu, 10/1/09, Chris Kantarjiev <cak at dimebank.com> wrote:

> From: Chris Kantarjiev <cak at dimebank.com>
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Suggestions/
> To: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net, triumphs at autox.team.net
> Cc: shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Date: Thursday, October 1, 2009, 2:34 PM
> Fred,
> 
> I think that "common wisdom" today is to use GL4, *not*
> GL5, because
> the sulfur in the GL5 oils will eat away the brass and
> copper shim
> washers, especially in the diff.
> 
> I'm a fan of RedLine no-shock for the diff.

From bn1 at pacbell.net  Thu Oct  1 21:04:59 2009
From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Mr. Bill)
Date: Thu, 01 Oct 2009 20:04:59 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] [Fwd: Re: [Healeys] Garage and workshop design]
Message-ID: <4AC56DDB.3020704@pacbell.net>

Probably very old hat to you Listers, but it was new news to me. 

Bill
Santa Ana, CA
'53 Austin-Healey 100 2-Owner
'72 Datsun 240Z 1-Owner (For Sale)
'05 PT Cruiser 1-Owner 4,200 miles


There is a web site that is dedicated to garages that I visit almost daily
and if you want pictures of what others have built and get tons of ideas,
there is no better place that this one to help you decide what you might
build.  Some are so over the top that they defy all logic.  In any case
visit:  http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/

Look in the Gallery section and you will spend a week reading all the
different stories people post showing their complete build process and then
how they outfitted them. Check out the garage the guy in Utah built, you
will not believe it. There are posters from all over the world, providing a
perspective as to what others are doing for their hobby space, and it is
fascinating.  Time spent reading what people have built for specific
purposes will help you decide what is important to your needs.  I for one
feel a garage cannot be too big, and a lift is a real help.  Lighting is
extremely important as are electrical outlets, an air compressor with a
dryer, heat and AC, with in-floor heat preferable as others have said.  

 
Gil

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre
Sent: Thursday, October 01, 2009 8:22 PM
To: mike brooks; Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Garage and workshop design

Archives,   " garages"  or  "shops".     Tons of cool ideas.

ML


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "mike brooks" <hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk>
To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2009 2:55 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Garage and workshop design


> Hi listers,
>
> Long time no hear from me - I'm several thousand miles away from
> my BN2 on a Middle East work assignment. The good news is that we're 
> planning
> to be re-united sometime next year, when I will be building a house, 
> garage
> and workshop on a piece of land just purchased. So I'm looking for you 
> guys
> with fantastic garage and workshop facilities to give me loads of advice 
> on
> equipment, layout , services etc. etc.  The basic specification for the
> garage/ workshop is:- Two car garage + workshop; Lift/pit (which?); 
> facilities
> for all mechanical work including engine rebuild; limited welding 
> facilities
> for smaller jobs but not complete bodywork.
>
> Please copy list.
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
> Brooks
> '56 BN2
> _______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as bn1 at pacbell.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Thu Oct  1 21:23:13 2009
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2009 23:23:13 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Suggestions/
In-Reply-To: <645995.22656.qm@web608.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <200910011834.n91IY8bK016942@moose.dimebank.com>
	<645995.22656.qm@web608.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2400a5d40910012023t7f285a21mbd49977235f7ffe@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, Oct 1, 2009 at 6:36 PM, Doug Braun <doug at dougbraun.com> wrote:

> I have Redline MT-90 in the OD transmission of my '72 Spit. One nice thing
> about it is that the shifting does not get too difficult in cold winter
> weather.
>
> As for the diff, it has regular oil, whatever Pep Boys sells.  I have never
> drained it, and just top it off every couple of years.
>
>
Are you sure you own a british car?
-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Oct  1 23:15:18 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2009 22:15:18 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] [TR] Suggestions/
In-Reply-To: <A0CB247FEDBA41D7917564FAFC20792D@fred8kwiskhcfu>
References: <A0CB247FEDBA41D7917564FAFC20792D@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <CACC138CB02D49E8A12128A812742CDD@Meislaptop>

> I would like the lists opinion on types/weight etc. of oil used in the
> gearbox
> W/OD and rear differential, 

Although I do believe there are valid concerns about using a GL-5 oil; I
have been using Valvoline "Synpower" full synthetic gear oil (75W90 GL5 MT1)
in all of my Triumph differentials for many years and I still believe it is
an excellent choice.  The MT1 rating means it does not contain the "active"
sulfur-based additives that can corrode the copper alloys used in Triumph
differential thrust washers; while the GL5 rating means it provides superior
protection for the gears.  The differential in TS39781LO was already badly
worn when it came to me; but got no worse in perhaps 200,000 hard miles
using the Valvoline synthetic GL5.

I have used Valvoline 20W50 Racing (motor) oil in my A-type OD gearbox for
many years (based on advice from Ken Gillanders and Herman van den Akker)
and I also believe it is an excellent choice.

However, I have recently switched to Redline MT-90, and so far, I like it
better.  The OD operation is very quick and solid without being harsh; and
gearbox shifting is very consistent between cold and hot.

YMMV of course
Randall

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Fri Oct  2 06:49:32 2009
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 2009 07:49:32 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] [Fwd: Re: [Healeys] Garage and workshop design]
In-Reply-To: <4AC56DDB.3020704@pacbell.net>
References: <4AC56DDB.3020704@pacbell.net>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W233FD2EF0B2A4244662266E1D20@phx.gbl>

I was on there last night reading about a guy that built his garage using a
plain's fuselage.

Very cool site that I will have to remember to go to more often.

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA

'63 TR3B TCF587L

That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

See it moves!




> Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2009 20:04:59 -0700
> From: bn1 at pacbell.net
> To: shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Shop-talk] [Fwd: Re: [Healeys] Garage and workshop design]
>
> Probably very old hat to you Listers, but it was new news to me.
>
> Bill
> Santa Ana, CA
> '53 Austin-Healey 100 2-Owner
> '72 Datsun 240Z 1-Owner (For Sale)
> '05 PT Cruiser 1-Owner 4,200 miles
>
>
> There is a web site that is dedicated to garages that I visit almost daily
> and if you want pictures of what others have built and get tons of ideas,
> there is no better place that this one to help you decide what you might
> build. Some are so over the top that they defy all logic. In any case
> visit: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/
>
> Look in the Gallery section and you will spend a week reading all the
> different stories people post showing their complete build process and then
> how they outfitted them. Check out the garage the guy in Utah built, you
> will not believe it. There are posters from all over the world, providing a
> perspective as to what others are doing for their hobby space, and it is
> fascinating. Time spent reading what people have built for specific
> purposes will help you decide what is important to your needs. I for one
> feel a garage cannot be too big, and a lift is a real help. Lighting is
> extremely important as are electrical outlets, an air compressor with a
> dryer, heat and AC, with in-floor heat preferable as others have said.
>
>
> Gil
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre
> Sent: Thursday, October 01, 2009 8:22 PM
> To: mike brooks; Healeys
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Garage and workshop design
>
> Archives, " garages" or "shops". Tons of cool ideas.
>
> ML
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "mike brooks" <hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk>
> To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2009 2:55 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Garage and workshop design
>
>
> > Hi listers,
> >
> > Long time no hear from me - I'm several thousand miles away from
> > my BN2 on a Middle East work assignment. The good news is that we're
> > planning
> > to be re-united sometime next year, when I will be building a house,
> > garage
> > and workshop on a piece of land just purchased. So I'm looking for you
> > guys
> > with fantastic garage and workshop facilities to give me loads of advice
> > on
> > equipment, layout , services etc. etc. The basic specification for the
> > garage/ workshop is:- Two car garage + workshop; Lift/pit (which?);
> > facilities
> > for all mechanical work including engine rebuild; limited welding
> > facilities
> > for smaller jobs but not complete bodywork.
> >
> > Please copy list.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Mike
> > Brooks
> > '56 BN2
> > _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as bn1 at pacbell.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Oct  2 08:57:30 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 2009 07:57:30 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] More wiring questions.
In-Reply-To: <OF9F503ABC.25EF82AC-ON85257641.00467F1A-85257641.00467F22@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF9F503ABC.25EF82AC-ON85257641.00467F1A-85257641.00467F22@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <C6FA0FD945B740739481CE558296AA26@Meislaptop>

> I bought a junction box and was amazed to find that they don't include a
> ground bar.  Why not?

Mostly so they can sell it to you separately ... in some cases it's not
required.

> In the building, do I run a separate ground spike?

I don't know what the NEC requires (or local code in your area); but that is
what I would do.  

Lot of folks here at VTR/TRfest and not checking their email; so you might
try asking again next week if you don't get any other answers.

Randall

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Fri Oct  2 14:45:11 2009
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 2009 16:45:11 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Fwd:  More wiring questions.
In-Reply-To: <2400a5d40910020825jff85ae3xeebf091b6542ee10@mail.gmail.com>
References: <OF9F503ABC.25EF82AC-ON85257641.00467F1A-85257641.00467F22@mail.megageek.com>
	<C6FA0FD945B740739481CE558296AA26@Meislaptop>
	<2400a5d40910020825jff85ae3xeebf091b6542ee10@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2400a5d40910021345g104f4faepf60ba6b9720ab33f@mail.gmail.com>

On Fri, Oct 2, 2009 at 10:57 AM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > I bought a junction box and was amazed to find that they don't include a
> > ground bar.  Why not?
>
> Mostly so they can sell it to you separately ... in some cases it's not
> required.
>

And in some, it's prohibited.


>
> > In the building, do I run a separate ground spike?
>
> I don't know what the NEC requires (or local code in your area); but that
> is
> what I would do.
>

NEC 2008 makes a bunch of changes to how this is required to be done.  As I
understand things (and i might be wrong) it requires a four-wire connection
to the main panel, prohibits bonding neutral and ground in the sub-panel,
and requires a ground connection at the subpanel.  That's typically a
grounding rod, but there are other options.

(In previous editions of the code, you were allowed to use a three wire
connection (no ground), as long as there wasn't a metallic connection
between the building. The problem with this is that someone will come along
and add one later.  Then you get scary ground loops.  )


-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com



-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From mikey at b2systems.com  Fri Oct  2 16:20:39 2009
From: mikey at b2systems.com (Mike Rambour)
Date: Fri, 02 Oct 2009 15:20:39 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] [Fwd: Re: [Healeys] Garage and workshop design]
In-Reply-To: <4AC56DDB.3020704@pacbell.net>
References: <4AC56DDB.3020704@pacbell.net>
Message-ID: <4AC67CB7.7020409@b2systems.com>

and

http://www.garagehangout.com/forum/index.php

http://www.toolsandgarages.com/index.php

 Between the 3 you can spend your entire life on the web and never get 
anything else done :)  I know, I am a frequent and heavy poster on all 3.

    mike

Mr. Bill wrote:
> Probably very old hat to you Listers, but it was new news to me. 
>
> Bill
> Santa Ana, CA
> '53 Austin-Healey 100 2-Owner
> '72 Datsun 240Z 1-Owner (For Sale)
> '05 PT Cruiser 1-Owner 4,200 miles
>
>
> There is a web site that is dedicated to garages that I visit almost daily
> and if you want pictures of what others have built and get tons of ideas,
> there is no better place that this one to help you decide what you might
> build.  Some are so over the top that they defy all logic.  In any case
> visit:  http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/
>
> Look in the Gallery section and you will spend a week reading all the
> different stories people post showing their complete build process and then
> how they outfitted them. Check out the garage the guy in Utah built, you
> will not believe it. There are posters from all over the world, providing a
> perspective as to what others are doing for their hobby space, and it is
> fascinating.  Time spent reading what people have built for specific
> purposes will help you decide what is important to your needs.  I for one
> feel a garage cannot be too big, and a lift is a real help.  Lighting is
> extremely important as are electrical outlets, an air compressor with a
> dryer, heat and AC, with in-floor heat preferable as others have said.  
>
>  
> Gil
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre
> Sent: Thursday, October 01, 2009 8:22 PM
> To: mike brooks; Healeys
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Garage and workshop design
>
> Archives,   " garages"  or  "shops".     Tons of cool ideas.
>
> ML
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "mike brooks" <hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk>
> To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2009 2:55 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Garage and workshop design
>
>
>   
>> Hi listers,
>>
>> Long time no hear from me - I'm several thousand miles away from
>> my BN2 on a Middle East work assignment. The good news is that we're 
>> planning
>> to be re-united sometime next year, when I will be building a house, 
>> garage
>> and workshop on a piece of land just purchased. So I'm looking for you 
>> guys
>> with fantastic garage and workshop facilities to give me loads of advice 
>> on
>> equipment, layout , services etc. etc.  The basic specification for the
>> garage/ workshop is:- Two car garage + workshop; Lift/pit (which?); 
>> facilities
>> for all mechanical work including engine rebuild; limited welding 
>> facilities
>> for smaller jobs but not complete bodywork.
>>
>> Please copy list.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Mike
>> Brooks
>> '56 BN2
>> _______________________________________________
>>     
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as bn1 at pacbell.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as mikey at b2systems.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jamesf at groupwbench.org  Fri Oct  2 19:00:21 2009
From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin)
Date: Fri, 02 Oct 2009 21:00:21 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Moving tools?
Message-ID: <BDC75674-D287-476B-B21D-DFF2F2BC09F3@groupwbench.org>

I'm moving my stuff into a storage unit for a few months. I have a lot  
of heavy hand tools that need to be packed into small-ish boxes. Have  
you found a box type/source that works well for this?

thanks,
jim

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Fri Oct  2 19:16:39 2009
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Fri, 02 Oct 2009 21:16:39 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] hoisting heavy items
Message-ID: <4AC6A5F7.4040202@141.com>

The nice barn that came with our new property in Kentucky has a large 
loft that we plan on using for parts storage.  Everything from fenders 
to engine blocks and anything in between.  I'm looking for ideas as to 
what would work best for hoisting the heavier items up to the loft. 

The hoist will be used inside the barn and will need to lift from barn 
floor to loft floor about 10 feet or so.  I used to have a chain fall 
but it took SO long to perform that type of lift that I'm hoping 
something better and faster can be found, preferably non-electric.

Any thoughts or suggestions on what might work?

Thanks!

Brad

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Fri Oct  2 19:50:57 2009
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 2009 21:50:57 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Moving tools?
In-Reply-To: <BDC75674-D287-476B-B21D-DFF2F2BC09F3@groupwbench.org>
References: <BDC75674-D287-476B-B21D-DFF2F2BC09F3@groupwbench.org>
Message-ID: <BB2834761FBE46AAA723ECDE96800DF8@EricJRussellPC>

Rubbermaid plastic bins & a 2 wheel dolly. 

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell
----- Original Message ----- 


> I'm moving my stuff into a storage unit for a few months. I have a lot  
> of heavy hand tools that need to be packed into small-ish boxes. Have  
> you found a box type/source that works well for this?
> 
> thanks,
> jim

From jamesf at groupwbench.org  Fri Oct  2 20:21:16 2009
From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin)
Date: Fri, 02 Oct 2009 22:21:16 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Moving tools?
In-Reply-To: <BB2834761FBE46AAA723ECDE96800DF8@EricJRussellPC>
References: <BDC75674-D287-476B-B21D-DFF2F2BC09F3@groupwbench.org>
	<BB2834761FBE46AAA723ECDE96800DF8@EricJRussellPC>
Message-ID: <C4C274F8-2489-4D6C-9608-7FEFF0B8FB35@groupwbench.org>

On Oct 2, 2009, at 9:50 PM, Eric J Russell wrote:

> Rubbermaid plastic bins & a 2 wheel dolly.
> Eric Russell


Perfect! Except I should have clarified- I want something recycleable  
like cardboard or wood. Don't want to buy something for a one time  
use, or that I'll have to store.

jim

From mark at bradakis.com  Fri Oct  2 21:27:21 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 02 Oct 2009 21:27:21 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] hoisting heavy items
In-Reply-To: <4AC6A5F7.4040202@141.com>
References: <4AC6A5F7.4040202@141.com>
Message-ID: <4AC6C499.8040905@bradakis.com>

Recently at Bailey's we bought a used, and I do mean USED, forklift.  It 
does
still work, though.  I don't know how common cheap used ones might go for
in your area, but they do come in handy for moving things around, towing
dead cars, moving the boss' trailer in and out of the building, etc.

mjb.

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Sat Oct  3 05:51:34 2009
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Sat, 03 Oct 2009 07:51:34 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] hoisting heavy items
In-Reply-To: <4AC6A5F7.4040202@141.com>
References: <4AC6A5F7.4040202@141.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20091003073800.01d87008@cox.net>

At 09:16 PM 10/2/2009, Brad Kahler wrote:

 >The nice barn that came with our new property in Kentucky has a 
large loft that
 >we plan on using for parts storage.  Everything from fenders to 
engine blocks
 >and anything in between.  I'm looking for ideas as to what would 
work best for
 >hoisting the heavier items up to the loft.
 >
 >The hoist will be used inside the barn and will need to lift from 
barn floor to loft
 >floor about 10 feet or so.  I used to have a chain fall but it took 
SO long to
 >perform that type of lift that I'm hoping something better and faster can be
 >found, preferably non-electric.

Brad,

Unfortunately, you're talking a wide range of weights here, a fender and an
engine block.

Also there is a thing called mechanical advantage which allows you to move
something you can't do by yourself. :)  The problem with that is that as you
get more advantage you give up something.  So for lifting a 400# engine block
how much can you lift/pull.  If you say 50#, then you're looking for a wench
(block and tackle or chain fall) with gives you 8x mechanical advantage.  The
down side is you'll have to pull 8x the distance.

So you may want a couple of pully systems.  1 being a good chain fall for
lifting heavy items like an engine.  You may also want a rope block and tackle
with a mechanical of 1 or 2x to lift light things like the fender.

Then next question is, does the barn have the structrural support to 
support the
chain fall?  You could build or buy an I beam on rollers that you 
could position
over the opening to attach the block and tackle to, or you could 
build something
perminate into the walls and roof structure.

Finally, you'll need a hole in the floor and possibly a way to safely 
cover it when
not lifting something up through it.  So you'll probably need to cut 
at least one
ceiling/floor joist to make it wide enough.  I'd suggest that you 
make the joist(s)
removable, so that when you're done, you can reinstall them and close the door
over them.  Now you can safely walk or move things over that area.

Finally, depending on how much heavy stuff you put up there, you might need to
put some reinforcing columns in on the 1st floor of the barn to 
support the weight
in areas of the 2nd floor, depending on how large the span is across the barn,
and how much weight you concentrate in one area - like are all the 
engines going
in one area?

John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From sdillen at telus.net  Sat Oct  3 08:09:44 2009
From: sdillen at telus.net (Steve Dillen)
Date: Sat, 03 Oct 2009 07:09:44 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] hoisting heavy items
In-Reply-To: <4AC6A5F7.4040202@141.com>
References: <4AC6A5F7.4040202@141.com>
Message-ID: <4AC75B28.7060309@telus.net>

I use a boat-trailer winch ($50 from Princess Auto here in
Canada....Harbor Freight likely is the US equivalent) attached to the
wall of my garage with the cable running through overhead blocks to
install/remove my Jeep TJ hardtop (150# or so), truck canopy, etc.  I've
used it to lift engines into the back of a pickup and such.  I plan on
running the cable through pulleys and an I-Beam roller to make it easier
to load and move heavier things as needed.  You might look at something
similar to this....it's slow, but it was cheap and works well for me. 
It'd certainly be faster than a chain fall.

Heed all the usual warnings about making sure you have enough structural
support for whatever you're lifting and those on the trailer winch which
clearly state "not for lifting", blah blah blah!!!!!  Actually, the only
concern I've ever had with this system is when lowering because of
course there's no drag.

Steve Dillen
Maple Ridge, BC

Brad Kahler wrote:
> The nice barn that came with our new property in Kentucky has a large
> loft that we plan on using for parts storage.  Everything from fenders
> to engine blocks and anything in between.  I'm looking for ideas as to
> what would work best for hoisting the heavier items up to the loft.
> The hoist will be used inside the barn and will need to lift from barn
> floor to loft floor about 10 feet or so.  I used to have a chain fall
> but it took SO long to perform that type of lift that I'm hoping
> something better and faster can be found, preferably non-electric.
>
> Any thoughts or suggestions on what might work?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brad
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as sdillen at telus.net
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jniolon at bham.rr.com  Sat Oct  3 11:18:57 2009
From: jniolon at bham.rr.com (john niolon)
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 2009 12:18:57 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] lifting heavy stuff
Message-ID: <EFA92B2355C04A9193549812BBA872C6@niolon>

Warn makes a portable hoist that can be used anywhere... here's a link but 
you can find more info on the net I'm sure... only problem is you would have 
to be in the loft doing the lifting, I don't think it has a remote control..

http://www.mawonline.com/google/T374105.HTM

john
You cannot help the poor by destroying the rich.
You cannot strengthen the weak by weakening the strong.
You cannot bring about prosperity by discouraging thrift.
You cannot lift the wage earner up by pulling the wage payer down
You cannot further the brotherhood of man by inciting class hatred.
You cannot build character and courage by taking away people's initiative 
and independence.
You cannot help people permanently by doing for them, what they could and 
should do for themselves.
William J. H. Boetcker 

From jamesf at groupwbench.org  Sat Oct  3 15:56:05 2009
From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin)
Date: Sat, 03 Oct 2009 17:56:05 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] 16' of workbench and storage for sale  near Boston
Message-ID: <43E11C1F-AD6C-408D-85C7-D366F9A541BC@groupwbench.org>

A few years ago I built this:

http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct.php?0201

I don't want to move it again and I haven't heard from the new owners
yet, so I'm putting it here before it goes to Net.

It comes in 2 8' sections which were not neatly cut, and some of the
drawers are in need of some minor work.

There's at least $500 in materials so I'd like to get something near
that for it. I can deliver nearby. I'm in Acton, MA.

jim

From paul.mele at usermail.com  Sun Oct  4 23:00:40 2009
From: paul.mele at usermail.com (Paul Mele)
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 01:00:40 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] hoisting heavy items: ForkLift
In-Reply-To: <4AC6C499.8040905@bradakis.com>
References: <4AC6A5F7.4040202@141.com> <4AC6C499.8040905@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <009401ca4578$c99e7e80$5cdb7b80$@mele@usermail.com>

as an aside, I have a similar, 40 yr old used forklift....great tool if you
have the place to store it. 
I probably use it 30 mins/ month at most, but....ohhhh, what a feeling.

PM

<<Recently at Bailey's we bought a used, and I do mean USED, forklift. 

From eric at megageek.com  Tue Oct  6 06:36:50 2009
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 2009 08:36:50 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] The building is finally done!
Message-ID: <OFDC152E5C.E6CA983A-ON85257647.00454A7E-85257647.00454A86@mail.megageek.com>

Well, if you guys remember about 3 months ago I was asking about building
types and I've had questions all along the way.

Last night I officially "finished" the building (minus some landscaping
that needs to happen around it next spring.)

I chronicled the building in photos and they are here...

<http://www.megageek.com/photoalbums/equipment/StorehousePhotos/index.html>

There are a tons of photos in all stages of construction.  If you ever
wondered how to put on of these buildings up, this is a good place to look
(minus the massive safety violations of my crew*.)

I learned alot in the process also.  What to do, and what NOT to do next
(if there is a next) time.

If you have any questions, please feel free to email me. (I'm not an
expert, but I learned a TON of shortcuts and things to do to make it
better.)

*=My crew consisted of members of my rescue dive team.  Being that everyone
is pretty much an adrenaline junkie, I was lucky construction was a tame as
it was!  8^P

Also note, none of the electrical work appears in any of the photos.

Moose
b
Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b
 Ralph
Waldo Emerson

From mark at sccaprepared.com  Tue Oct  6 08:17:14 2009
From: mark at sccaprepared.com (Mark Andy)
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 2009 10:17:14 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] The building is finally done!
In-Reply-To: <OFDC152E5C.E6CA983A-ON85257647.00454A7E-85257647.00454A86@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OFDC152E5C.E6CA983A-ON85257647.00454A7E-85257647.00454A86@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910061015450.29690@thunder.banklogic.net>

Howdy,

On Tue, 6 Oct 2009, eric at megageek.com wrote:
> If you have any questions, please feel free to email me. (I'm not an
> expert, but I learned a TON of shortcuts and things to do to make it
> better.)

Pretty neat.  Looks like the forklift or a scissors lift would be pretty 
handy at a minimum...

How long do they rate the covering for, and how much does it cost to 
replace?

Speaking of cost, what's a structure like this end up costing?

Mark

From eric at megageek.com  Tue Oct  6 08:12:44 2009
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 2009 10:12:44 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] New Building
Message-ID: <OF709CC747.0436CCE0-ON85257647.004E122B-85257647.004E122E@mail.megageek.com>

I was asked in a private email about more information from the building, so
here it is...

It's a ClearSpan 38'X40'X14' building.  I bought it from FarmTek and got a
great price.

A few of the people that helped me put it up were real engineers, and there
was one guy who erects similar building from another manufacture.

Everyone agreed that the this ClearSpan building was incredibly well
engineered and of substantial construction.  With that said, there are a
few places where Clearspan can improve.  One area is the directions.  They
were often vague and didn't provide enough information.  But it wouldn't be
a problem when you build your second (or more) building.

There are also a few places where they should upgrade their hardware.  The
purlin connectors have a small hole that the cables need to route through.
Many times, it was difficult to get the cable and eyelet in the little
hole.

If I were doing it again, I would pour concrete footers for the end walls.
Using the anchors and pavement just isn't as nice as the concrete would
have been.

I also would have done a better site survey.  I ended up having to bring in
too much fill and ended up with a building that has a much larger footprint
then I wanted.

When putting the door up, I welded the mounts instead of bolting them up.
It was MUCH better as I could get a better tolerance and more precision
(then trying to drill 8 X 1/2" holes, 12' in the air through THICK steel.)

I would consider welding more of the frame if I was to do it again (not
most of it, but there are parts that should be welded, IMHO.)

Overall, the building has more space than I originally though it would.  I
can store everything I need to in there (and then some.)  This isn't a
building for doing work in, it is only to store larger items, YMMV.



Moose
b
Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b
 Ralph
Waldo Emerson

From eric at megageek.com  Tue Oct  6 08:34:58 2009
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 2009 10:34:58 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] The building is finally done!
Message-ID: <OFACA51318.DD574B48-ON85257647.00501B11-85257647.00501B14@mail.megageek.com>

Mark asks...

>Looks like the forklift or a scissors lift would be pretty
>handy at a minimum...

Yes, you *need* something that can lift the ribs up (so it needs to lift at
least as high as the building.)  I would recommend having more than one
lift.  It is very handy to have one item doing the lifting and another one
that people can be in to bolt the sections together.


>How long do they rate the covering for, and how much does it cost to
>replace?

Covering is rated for 15 years. It was one of the best warentees in the
industry I could find.  I don't know what it will cost to replace, but it
is repairable if need be.

>Speaking of cost, what's a structure like this end up costing?

Well, the building was purchased for just under $10,000.  (with all the
doors, vents, and end walls.)  The pavement cost me just over $8000
(originally it was suppose to be about $5000, but the extra fill and labor
added to that quickly.)  Labor was food and beer.  Plus I put about another
$400 bucks into running electric to the building.

Would I do it again.  Yes!  It is well worth freeing up space in my main
shop (60'X 55') heated and plumbed shop.

I did consider buying cheaper, smaller units (and getting more of them) and
not making them *as* permament.  This would have been better for future
fexiblity and been cheaper, but I'm using this building for our rescue dive
unit's equipment and I wanted it to be a little more professional.

If anyone is considering this type of building, I can most likely get you a
little discount.  I will be willing to come over to help as you put it up
to share the knowledge I learned in this process.


Moose
b
Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b
 Ralph
Waldo Emerson

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Tue Oct  6 08:54:42 2009
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 2009 10:54:42 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] The building is finally done!
In-Reply-To: <OFDC152E5C.E6CA983A-ON85257647.00454A7E-85257647.00454A86@
	mail.megageek.com>
References: <OFDC152E5C.E6CA983A-ON85257647.00454A7E-85257647.00454A86@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20091006105009.020a4480@cox.net>

At 08:36 AM 10/6/2009, eric at megageek.com wrote:

 >I chronicled the building in photos and they are here...

 >http://www.megageek.com/photoalbums/equipment/StorehousePhotos/index.html>

Wow!!!  Looks like a fun project.  How long did it take to errect 
it?  Also is the top covering
one large sheet with three panels, or were they seperate 
panels?  Then how are the front
and rear panel attached to the main top covering?

It looks like there is extra top cover laying on the ground.  Do you 
cut that off, or lay dirt
over it?

What do you have for a floor?  It looks like crush-n-run.


With all the pictures you took, I guess you were the official 
photographer and everyone else
worked. :)

Seriously, looks like a fun project to have worked on, and looks 
fantastic when done.

Congrats!!!

John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From eric at megageek.com  Tue Oct  6 11:39:22 2009
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 2009 13:39:22 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] The building is finally done!
Message-ID: <OFD513EF74.75CED06E-ON85257647.0060FCFD-85257647.0060FD00@mail.megageek.com>

John asks...

>How long did it take to errect it?
It took about 3 full days of construction for the lion's share of the work.
(But I did have a few setbacks that lengthen it.)

>Also is the top covering one large sheet with three panels, or were they
seperate panels?
It is one cover, with the "translucent" center strip sewn in it. (Another
feature that REALLY makes their product stand out.  No lights are needed
during daytime.

>Then how are the front and rear panel attached to the main top covering?
The coverings aren't attached to each other.  The sides are attached to the
outer most rib, and the cover lays over it.

>It looks like there is extra top cover laying on the ground.  Do you cut
that off, or lay dirt over it?
I laid down tarps so the cover never touched the ground.  That is what you
are seeing.


>What do you have for a floor?  It looks like crush-n-run.
I paved a pad for the site.  The "crush-n-run" was the compacted base for
the asphalt.


>With all the pictures you took, I guess you were the official photographer
and everyone else worked. :)
Of course, I'm management!  8>)  (Did you like the "child labor" driving
the forklift?)

>Seriously, looks like a fun project to have worked on, and looks fantastic
when done.
It was a great learning experiance and lots of fun.  The end result gives
me a warm and fuzzy also.


Moose
b
Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b
 Ralph
Waldo Emerson

From mark at sccaprepared.com  Wed Oct  7 14:07:04 2009
From: mark at sccaprepared.com (Mark Andy)
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 2009 16:07:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] air compressor question
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910071557280.21343@thunder.banklogic.net>

Howdy,

Ok, there've been some good air compressor discussions on here, and now 
that I might go buy a 'real' compressor, I have some questions...

Oh. The main motivating reason for buying one now is that we have a 
motorhome that needs 110 psi in the tires.  My current craftsman 33 gallon 
jobby I got ten years ago shuts off at 125psi or so and by the time you 
get to the end of the hose line at the tire, I can't get any more than 
105psi in the tire.

Not that I haven't been wanting to upgrade the compressor over the years, 
of course... It'd be nicer if it was quieter, could run a cutoff without 
running down, handled a small blast cabinet easier, etc.

Anyway, looking at 'real' compressors, this one looks nice to me:
http://www.tptools.com/p/184,91_5-HP-2-Stage-Champion-Centurion-Series.html

It has some of the highest cfm at 90psi I've seen, max pressure is 175psi, 
and the pump runs at 805 rpm which I assume means it'll be pretty quiet. 
The downside, of course, is price.  Its by far more expensive than any of 
my other options.

This Pro Quad 5hp 2 Stage on this page: 
http://www.tptools.com/p/2904,91_Quincy-Pro-and-Max-Series.html

is a good bit cheaper.  But it shows 1310 rpm and apparently produces a 
little less air.  So my question with this one is... how much noisier 
should I expect it to be?  Or is pump RPM not everything for that.

Then, my other option and going in a totally different direction would be 
something like this:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00916561000P?keyword=60+gallon+air+compressor

Obviously the win is price.  It seems worse in every other respect and may 
even require me to manually dump air to cycle the compressor if it doesn't 
kick on around 130psi or so to keep decent pressure at the end of the hose 
for tires.  But man is it cheaper, and there's a couple year old used one 
for $300 not too far from me.

So... Any advice?  In particular, are there any compressors similar to the 
first two that are significantly cheaper?

Thanks!

Mark

From mark at sccaprepared.com  Wed Oct  7 14:13:15 2009
From: mark at sccaprepared.com (Mark Andy)
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 2009 16:13:15 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] air compressor question
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910071557280.21343@thunder.banklogic.net>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910071557280.21343@thunder.banklogic.net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910071608490.21801@thunder.banklogic.net>

Howdy,

Here's a follow on...

Our good friends at Harbor Freight have these options:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90836
(7.5, 80 gal, 26 cfm @ 90psi, 175psi max) for $1400 regular price

and this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93274
(5hp, 60 gal, 15.8 cfm @ 90psi, 165psi max) for $850 regular price.

I can get 20% Off each of those with readily available coupons, making the 
final prices $1120 and $680 respectively.

What about those?

Mark

On Wed, 7 Oct 2009, Mark Andy wrote:

> Howdy,
>
> Ok, there've been some good air compressor discussions on here, and now that 
> I might go buy a 'real' compressor, I have some questions...
>
> Oh. The main motivating reason for buying one now is that we have a motorhome 
> that needs 110 psi in the tires.  My current craftsman 33 gallon jobby I got 
> ten years ago shuts off at 125psi or so and by the time you get to the end of 
> the hose line at the tire, I can't get any more than 105psi in the tire.
>
> Not that I haven't been wanting to upgrade the compressor over the years, of 
> course... It'd be nicer if it was quieter, could run a cutoff without running 
> down, handled a small blast cabinet easier, etc.
>
> Anyway, looking at 'real' compressors, this one looks nice to me:
> http://www.tptools.com/p/184,91_5-HP-2-Stage-Champion-Centurion-Series.html
>
> It has some of the highest cfm at 90psi I've seen, max pressure is 175psi, 
> and the pump runs at 805 rpm which I assume means it'll be pretty quiet. The 
> downside, of course, is price.  Its by far more expensive than any of my 
> other options.
>
> This Pro Quad 5hp 2 Stage on this page: 
> http://www.tptools.com/p/2904,91_Quincy-Pro-and-Max-Series.html
>
> is a good bit cheaper.  But it shows 1310 rpm and apparently produces a 
> little less air.  So my question with this one is... how much noisier should 
> I expect it to be?  Or is pump RPM not everything for that.
>
> Then, my other option and going in a totally different direction would be 
> something like this:
> http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00916561000P?keyword=60+gallon+air+compressor
>
> Obviously the win is price.  It seems worse in every other respect and may 
> even require me to manually dump air to cycle the compressor if it doesn't 
> kick on around 130psi or so to keep decent pressure at the end of the hose 
> for tires.  But man is it cheaper, and there's a couple year old used one for 
> $300 not too far from me.
>
> So... Any advice?  In particular, are there any compressors similar to the 
> first two that are significantly cheaper?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Mark

From strovato at optonline.net  Wed Oct  7 15:03:30 2009
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Wed, 07 Oct 2009 17:03:30 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] air compressor question
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910071557280.21343@thunder.banklogic.net>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910071557280.21343@thunder.banklogic.net>
Message-ID: <0KR500DLPX5YXWL0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

I'm not really getting this 20lb drop through the hose.  The way I 
learned physics, if there is 125 psi in the tank, and the regulator 
is set to 125, there's 125 psi at the end of the hose.  Now, when you 
hook that up to a low tire, there will be less than 125 for a while, 
but eventually the system will reach 125 in the tank, hose and tire 
if you let it.  It might take a while, so if that's your problem, 
there are various ways to address that.  Higher pressure at the 
compressor is one.  Or larger diameter hose.  Of course, if this is 
just a justification for purchasing a new compressor, then ignore 
this and keep shopping.

-Steve Trovato
strovato at optonline.net

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Oct  7 15:48:53 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 2009 21:48:53 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Shop-talk] air compressor question
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910071557280.21343@thunder.banklogic.net>
Message-ID: <99684785.1257461254952133214.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

My understanding is that all manufacturers'/sellers' HP, PSI, CFPM, etc. claims are to be taken with a large grain of salt. I would, however, expect the RPM number to be reasonably accurate. 

bs 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 


Howdy, 

Ok, there've been some good air compressor discussions on here, and now 
that I might go buy a 'real' compressor, I have some questions... 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Oct  7 15:59:34 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 2009 14:59:34 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] air compressor question
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910071557280.21343@thunder.banklogic.net>
Message-ID: <20091007215934107.FDZI16663@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> In particular, are there any compressors 
> similar to the 
> first two that are significantly cheaper?

FWIW, I picked up a used Sears unit somewhat similar to your second option,
for $500.  Advertised as "7.5 hp", but it's about 5 really (made before the
court case over compressor ratings, obviously), and rated for 16.9 cfm @ 175
psi.  Compressor is aluminum (with steel cylinder liners) but I expect it
will outlast me for the hour or two per week that I use it.  It is pretty
loud, but it seems comparable to the units I've seen in gas stations and
whatnot (which are usually located away from the work area so the mechanics
don't have to listen to them).  And at least half of the noise seems to be
coming from the air intake, which I think would be just as bad or worse on a
slower turning unit (which would have more displacement to move the same
amount of air).

Randall

From mikey at b2systems.com  Wed Oct  7 16:04:49 2009
From: mikey at b2systems.com (mike rambour)
Date: Wed, 07 Oct 2009 15:04:49 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] air compressor question
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910071557280.21343@thunder.banklogic.net>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910071557280.21343@thunder.banklogic.net>
Message-ID: <1254953089.3785.2.camel@WebBrowser>

On Wed, 2009-10-07 at 16:07 -0400, Mark Andy wrote:

> Anyway, looking at 'real' compressors, this one looks nice to me:
> http://www.tptools.com/p/184,91_5-HP-2-Stage-Champion-Centurion-Series.html
> 
> It has some of the highest cfm at 90psi I've seen, max pressure is 175psi, 
> and the pump runs at 805 rpm which I assume means it'll be pretty quiet. 
> The downside, of course, is price.  Its by far more expensive than any of 
> my other options.

Can't speak about the others but the 80gallon model is the one I have,
incredibly great compressor compared to Sears airless that I had before.
Nice and quiet too, its in the garage and it does not bother me.  I was
worried about the price (5 years ago) but now it no longer matters as I
know better now, I have no doubt my daughter will be selling it or using
it after I die.  

	mike

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Wed Oct  7 16:15:58 2009
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Wed, 07 Oct 2009 18:15:58 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] air compressor question
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910071608490.21801@thunder.banklogic.net>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910071557280.21343@thunder.banklogic.net>
	<Pine.LNX.4.64.0910071608490.21801@thunder.banklogic.net>
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20091007175935.01d88860@cox.net>

At 04:13 PM 10/7/2009, Mark Andy wrote:


 >>....now that I might go buy a 'real' compressor

 >>Anyway, looking at 'real' compressors, this one looks nice to me:
 >>http://www.tptools.com/p/184,91_5-HP-2-Stage-Champion-Centurion-Series.html

 >>Then, my other option and going in a totally different direction would be
 >>something like this:
 >>
 >http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00916561000P?keyword=60+gallon+air+compressor

 >Here's a follow on...

 >Our good friends at Harbor Freight have these options:
 >http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90836
 >(7.5, 80 gal, 26 cfm @ 90psi, 175psi max) for $1400 regular price

 >and this one:
 >http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93274
 >(5hp, 60 gal, 15.8 cfm @ 90psi, 165psi max) for $850 regular price.


Mark,

I'm not a pro at this by any means, but my 2cents are:

Don't know how much money means to you, but I can't see the cost of the 1st
2 compressors.   I think they are more of a professional compressor than a
hobbiests.  $1.5K is way more than I can afford for a compressor!

The Sears, I'd pass on, even though the price is right.  I don't like 
the oil less
units.  They are very noisy.  I don't know how long they last, but 
they do offer
one hell-of-a bang for your buck.

That leaves the HF units.  Again looking at price and performance the HF.
93274 unit looks pretty nice.  It delivers close to the same cfm but for a
lot less money.  I don't see you needing much more than what this unit
can deliver.

Personally, I'd go for the H.F. 93274 unit, unless someone else can 
give a better
reason.

John


John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Wed Oct  7 16:18:37 2009
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (James F Juhas)
Date: Wed, 07 Oct 2009 18:18:37 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] air compressor question
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910071557280.21343@thunder.banklogic.net>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910071557280.21343@thunder.banklogic.net>
Message-ID: <4ACD13BD.2080409@snet.net>

Mark:  I have this one from Sears

Craftsman Professional 60 gal. Air Compressor, 3.2 hp, Vertical Tank, 
Oillube Pump

I'm not sure of the link you sent (didn't get me quite there) but I have 
been very happy with my choice.  I don't understand their HP rating but 
the CFM rates are consistent with other units labeled as 5 HP and I 
think the current draw is the same.  More truth in advertising?

It's relatively quiet, oil lube is so much nicer than those awful oiless 
units, and it's reasonably priced (although I paid only 499 a year ago.)

Mark Andy wrote:
> Howdy,
>
> Ok, there've been some good air compressor discussions on here, and 
> now that I might go buy a 'real' compressor, I have some questions...
>
> Oh. The main motivating reason for buying one now is that we have a 
> motorhome that needs 110 psi in the tires.  My current craftsman 33 
> gallon jobby I got ten years ago shuts off at 125psi or so and by the 
> time you get to the end of the hose line at the tire, I can't get any 
> more than 105psi in the tire.
>
> Not that I haven't been wanting to upgrade the compressor over the 
> years, of course... It'd be nicer if it was quieter, could run a 
> cutoff without running down, handled a small blast cabinet easier, etc.
>
> Anyway, looking at 'real' compressors, this one looks nice to me:
> http://www.tptools.com/p/184,91_5-HP-2-Stage-Champion-Centurion-Series.html 
>
>
> It has some of the highest cfm at 90psi I've seen, max pressure is 
> 175psi, and the pump runs at 805 rpm which I assume means it'll be 
> pretty quiet. The downside, of course, is price.  Its by far more 
> expensive than any of my other options.
>
> This Pro Quad 5hp 2 Stage on this page: 
> http://www.tptools.com/p/2904,91_Quincy-Pro-and-Max-Series.html
>
> is a good bit cheaper.  But it shows 1310 rpm and apparently produces 
> a little less air.  So my question with this one is... how much 
> noisier should I expect it to be?  Or is pump RPM not everything for 
> that.
>
> Then, my other option and going in a totally different direction would 
> be something like this:
> http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00916561000P?keyword=60+gallon+air+compressor 
>
>
> Obviously the win is price.  It seems worse in every other respect and 
> may even require me to manually dump air to cycle the compressor if it 
> doesn't kick on around 130psi or so to keep decent pressure at the end 
> of the hose for tires.  But man is it cheaper, and there's a couple 
> year old used one for $300 not too far from me.
>
> So... Any advice?  In particular, are there any compressors similar to 
> the first two that are significantly cheaper?
>
> Thanks!

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of james_f_juhas.vcf]

From mark at sccaprepared.com  Wed Oct  7 16:19:29 2009
From: mark at sccaprepared.com (Mark Andy)
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 2009 18:19:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] air compressor question
In-Reply-To: <0KR500DLPX5YXWL0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910071557280.21343@thunder.banklogic.net>
	<0KR500DLPX5YXWL0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910071817140.24682@thunder.banklogic.net>

Howdy,

On Wed, 7 Oct 2009, Steven Trovato wrote:
> I'm not really getting this 20lb drop through the hose.  The way I 
> learned physics, if there is 125 psi in the tank, and the regulator is 
> set to 125, there's 125 psi at the end of the hose.  Now, when you hook 
> that up to a low tire, there will be less than 125 for a while, but 
> eventually the system will reach 125 in the tank, hose and tire if you 
> let it.  It might take a while, so if that's your problem, there are 
> various ways to address that.  Higher pressure at the compressor is one. 
> Or larger diameter hose.  Of course, if this is just a justification for 
> purchasing a new compressor, then ignore this and keep shopping.

Yeah, I'd have said that too, except that there's no air flow (at least 
discernable airflow... Like if you hold it on there you can't hear any air 
flowing and holding it in place for probably 10 seconds doesn't change the 
pressure in the tire).

It could be that the pressure switch on my current compressor stops the 
party early, for all I know.

I'd say this is 50% justification and 50% need.  That's an average of 25% 
need in reality and 75% need reported to my wife.

Mark

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Oct  7 16:51:08 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 2009 15:51:08 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] air compressor question
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910071817140.24682@thunder.banklogic.net>
Message-ID: <20091007225107815.BAQH14562@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> I'd say this is 50% justification and 50% need.  That's an 
> average of 25% 
> need in reality and 75% need reported to my wife.

Which is exactly why I didn't mention that you can probably turn up the
pressure switch a bit in your existing compressor.

Randall

From mark at sccaprepared.com  Wed Oct  7 17:21:24 2009
From: mark at sccaprepared.com (Mark Andy)
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 2009 19:21:24 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] air compressor question
In-Reply-To: <20091007225107815.BAQH14562@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>
References: <20091007225107815.BAQH14562@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910071920490.26122@thunder.banklogic.net>

Howdy,

On Wed, 7 Oct 2009, Randall wrote:
>> I'd say this is 50% justification and 50% need.  That's an
>> average of 25%
>> need in reality and 75% need reported to my wife.
>
> Which is exactly why I didn't mention that you can probably turn up the
> pressure switch a bit in your existing compressor.

Really?  How do those adjust?

I didn't think they were user adjustable.

Mark

From mbarre at juno.com  Wed Oct  7 17:24:43 2009
From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt)
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 2009 23:24:43 GMT
Subject: [Shop-talk] air compressor question
Message-ID: <20091007.192443.12909.0@webmail13.vgs.untd.com>

Until I found a lightly used IR unit on Craigs, I was looking closely at a 2
stage compressor at Sams Club.

It is probably just a local thing, but a buddy of mine reported the local
Tractor Supply (Columbus GA) had a screaming closeout deal on a 2 stage IR,
something like $500.

Go BIG!

Matt


Mark wrote:
...

So... Any advice?  In particular, are there any compressors similar to the
first two that are significantly cheaper?

Thanks!

Mark
...

____________________________________________________________
Find great ideas to help you do the fund raising you need. Click now!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTHJUQX6cU88oVRjGNFygMPtixdK
nwcgnQtWXx4O4WEOkXCUCk3zo8/

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Oct  7 17:51:40 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 2009 16:51:40 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] air compressor question
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910071920490.26122@thunder.banklogic.net>
Message-ID: <20091007235140357.YABG18886@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> > Which is exactly why I didn't mention that you can probably 
> turn up the
> > pressure switch a bit in your existing compressor.
> 
> Really?  How do those adjust?

Yours may not be.  But on my cheap "2 hp" 110v unit, after disassembling the
outer housing and removing the cover over the connections to the contactor,
there was a screw that adjusted the pressure.  Turning it in about 2 turns
raised the cutout pressure from 130 psi to about 145.

Randall

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Wed Oct  7 18:23:18 2009
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 2009 19:23:18 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] air compressor question
References: <20091007235140357.YABG18886@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <D08D72D8EBBC4A96956A115D1735D08D@KARL>

>> > Which is exactly why I didn't mention that you can probably
>> turn up the
>> > pressure switch a bit in your existing compressor.
>>
>> Really?  How do those adjust?


You'll likely find 2 adjustments, each associated with a compression spring 
(probably a screw through the center of the spring).  One adjusts the 
cut-out pressure (the thicker/stronger spring) while the other adjusts the 
differential between cut-in and cut-out pressures (ie the number of PSI drop 
from the cut-out pressure before the unit turns on again).

Tightening the cut-out spring raises the cut-out pressure, and tightening 
the differential spring increases the differential between cut-out and 
cut-in pressure.

Karl 

From mark at sccaprepared.com  Thu Oct  8 00:22:53 2009
From: mark at sccaprepared.com (Mark Andy)
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 2009 02:22:53 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] air compressor question
In-Reply-To: <20091007235140357.YABG18886@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
References: <20091007235140357.YABG18886@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910080219300.8160@thunder.banklogic.net>

Howdy,

On Wed, 7 Oct 2009, Randall wrote:
>>> Which is exactly why I didn't mention that you can probably
>> turn up the
>>> pressure switch a bit in your existing compressor.
>>
>> Really?  How do those adjust?
>
> Yours may not be.  But on my cheap "2 hp" 110v unit, after disassembling the
> outer housing and removing the cover over the connections to the contactor,
> there was a screw that adjusted the pressure.  Turning it in about 2 turns
> raised the cutout pressure from 130 psi to about 145.

Sure enough.  Mine was under a blob of glue though.  Weird place for me to 
have spilled glue.  Oh well!  Running 135psi now.

In other news, it sounds like the HF "US General" air compressors are 
actually assembled in the US, according to various google searches. 
People that actually have them overall said nice things about them.

In my position, its hard to justify more than double the cost of the 5hp 
one for the TP tools name brand setup, even with TP tools just down the 
road from me.

Mark

(yes, I was kidding about spilling the glue.)

From Tim.Mullen at ngc.com  Thu Oct  8 10:49:12 2009
From: Tim.Mullen at ngc.com (Mullen, Tim (IS))
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 2009 11:49:12 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Great  deal on a Pressure Washer
In-Reply-To: <43E11C1F-AD6C-408D-85C7-D366F9A541BC@groupwbench.org>
References: <43E11C1F-AD6C-408D-85C7-D366F9A541BC@groupwbench.org>
Message-ID: <9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C7970391D0B4@XMBIL103.northgrum.com>

I have to tell people that would appreciate the deal I got...

I was leaving Lowes last weekend (I had to pick up a couple of metric
bolts), and as I walked past the stuff they display on the side walk
outside, I spotted a pair of pressure washers in their "scratch and
dent" section.  One was a 3,000 PSI Troy-Bilt unit priced at $40 "for
parts".  It was missing the nozzles, but the rest was there.  It had a
note with it that it had been brought in for "unknown repairs.  I
grabbed it up and took it home.  It turned out that the problem was that
the hose fitting leaving the pump was a bit messed up.  When you
attached the hose, it would only screw on a couple of turns - when the
engine was started, the hose would blow off.

Well the fitting turned out to be replaceable, but before I even started
finding the new part, I took it to the store and tried on a quick
disconnect fitting.  It screwed completely on and fit fine.  After
reattaching it to the output line of the pump (with the quick disconnect
fitting attached), I tested it and everything works just fine.  So for a
total cost of $40 for the pressure washer, $25 for a set of nozzles, and
about $9 for the quick disconnect fittings, I now have a 8.75 HP, 3,000
PSI, 2.7 Gal/Hour Pressure washer in almost brand new condition.  I
would have bought the quick disconnect fittings anyway as I like the
convenience.  I'm happy.  Now I just need to figure out what all I can
do with the thing.  :)


Tim Mullen

From mikey at b2systems.com  Thu Oct  8 11:20:27 2009
From: mikey at b2systems.com (mike rambour)
Date: Thu, 08 Oct 2009 10:20:27 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] air compressor question
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910071557280.21343@thunder.banklogic.net>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910071557280.21343@thunder.banklogic.net>
Message-ID: <1255022427.3785.33.camel@WebBrowser>

 The advantage of the TP Tools compressor is that it is the very last
compressor you will buy in your lifetime.

 I have gone through 3 compressors in my time so far, I will never need
to buy another one.

 yeah, ok things break and I might but I extremely very seriously doubt
it.

  If you do any blasting you will really put a load on the compressor
and I don't worry about it with the Champion from TP, it does not run
that much.  Yes as someone already said, its firmly in the professional
end of the list, but even though I am a amateur/hobbyist I find that
better tools make my time in the garage more enjoyable.

	mike

From mikey at b2systems.com  Thu Oct  8 11:25:20 2009
From: mikey at b2systems.com (mike rambour)
Date: Thu, 08 Oct 2009 10:25:20 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Great  deal on a Pressure Washer
In-Reply-To: <9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C7970391D0B4@XMBIL103.northgrum.com>
References: <43E11C1F-AD6C-408D-85C7-D366F9A541BC@groupwbench.org>
	<9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C7970391D0B4@XMBIL103.northgrum.com>
Message-ID: <1255022720.3785.35.camel@WebBrowser>

On Thu, 2009-10-08 at 11:49 -0500, Mullen, Tim (IS) wrote:
> convenience.  I'm happy.  Now I just need to figure out what all I can
> do with the thing.  :)

 Bring it by my house and I will show what you can do with it, should
not take much more than 1 day :)  and I will provide the beverages once
you are halfway through, I would not want a drunk to pressure wash my
house.

	mike

From jandkstone99 at msn.com  Thu Oct  8 20:03:30 2009
From: jandkstone99 at msn.com (Jim Stone)
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 2009 21:03:30 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] HF Tire Changer
Message-ID: <COL115-W1C1E5D470C68621C6F2ADCCCB0@phx.gbl>

I currently have 9 wheels with trash tires taking up space in my garage.
Someday I'll get around to selling the ones I don't want, but for now I'd like
to get rid of the tires and store the wheels in less space.  I can take them
all to a tire place, but as I recall, they get about $10/wheel for removing
tires, plus the fee for recycling them.  For $50, I'm thinking about buying an
HF tire changer
(http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34542) and
doing the work myself.  I can then easily take them to the recycling center,
although I don't know if there is a consumer charge for turning them in.

Has anyone ever used one of these or one like it?  Is it more trouble than its
worth?

Thanks.

Jim
 		 	   		  
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222984/direct/01/

From sdillen at telus.net  Thu Oct  8 20:54:59 2009
From: sdillen at telus.net (Steve Dillen)
Date: Thu, 08 Oct 2009 19:54:59 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] HF Tire Changer
In-Reply-To: <COL115-W1C1E5D470C68621C6F2ADCCCB0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL115-W1C1E5D470C68621C6F2ADCCCB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4ACEA603.805@telus.net>

I just bought one of these last month to handle a bunch of tire/rim
swaps I wanted done.  My observations.....

You need to bolt it down VERY securely.  I initially tried to bolt it to
a plank and to then park my Jeep on it to hold it in place and that
really didn't work well.  I'll end up bolting it down to the concrete
floor in my workshop, but in the meantime (until I figure out WHERE I
want it installed), I bolted it through the 2x10 planking in my 5x8
utility trailer and that worked ok.

The arms which attach the "bead breaker" need to be reinforced.  On the
first tire I tried to break down, the arms folded up.  I replaced them
with angle iron to eliminate the weakness and haven't had problems
since.  If your tires have been on the rims for ages, you may have a
hard time breaking the bead.  I had to resort to the old "high-lift
jack" standby to break the bead on some trailer tires that had been on
the rims for 20 years (based on tire manufacture date stamp).

Be sure to lube the tires up.  I bought some tire lube, but based on
comments in a thread on this list several years ago, dish soap
works....as does armor-all.

Peeling the tires off steel rims works quite easily.  I removed
235/75x15s as well as 33x12.50x15 tires from my Jeep rims without a
problem.  Installation is a bit more difficult to get the iron to
properly feed the tire bead around the rim.  235/75s weren't too bad,
but brand new 33x12.50 Goodyear MT/Rs resulted in quite a workout
(again...use lube here!).

Overall, I'm happy with the machine....am glad I bought it...and for the
price vs the intended use, I consider it to be good value.  Just don't
expect to use it on any rim that you want to look nice!

Steve Dillen
Maple Ridge, BC

Jim Stone wrote:
> I currently have 9 wheels with trash tires taking up space in my garage.
> Someday I'll get around to selling the ones I don't want, but for now I'd like
> to get rid of the tires and store the wheels in less space.  I can take them
> all to a tire place, but as I recall, they get about $10/wheel for removing
> tires, plus the fee for recycling them.  For $50, I'm thinking about buying an
> HF tire changer
> (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34542) and
> doing the work myself.  I can then easily take them to the recycling center,
> although I don't know if there is a consumer charge for turning them in.
>
> Has anyone ever used one of these or one like it?  Is it more trouble than its
> worth?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jim

From robolane at sbcglobal.net  Thu Oct  8 21:26:39 2009
From: robolane at sbcglobal.net (ROBERT LANE)
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 2009 20:26:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Harbor Frieght Tire changer
Message-ID: <904438.52317.qm@web82005.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I have one and have changed several tires & some went pretty smooth and others
a real problem.  The problem tires were old tires with spongy sidewalls.  The
spongy walls collapsed causing the bead breaker lip to roll off the bead.  The
wheels also were pretty rusty in the bead area. I think that by fastening the
wheel against the center post the breaker lip might be bite to get between the
bead and the wheel.  But like I said the tires were old junk tires.  I have
also beefed up the breaker swing arms to handle more abuse.  Hope this helps.
CATCH YOU LATER,     ROBO

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Oct  8 23:12:09 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 2009 22:12:09 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] HF Tire Changer
In-Reply-To: <COL115-W1C1E5D470C68621C6F2ADCCCB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20091009051209798.ERH12917@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>

> For $50, I'm 
> thinking about buying an
> HF tire changer

I'll ditto pretty much everything Steve said, except that I was able to
reinforce the original arm for the bead breaker with some bolts & pipe;
which has been enough to break everything I've tried it on.  ISTR I also
moved one of the pivot points to work better with my 15" Triumph wheels.

It also helps if you pay attention to the bead on the other side of the
wheel, and make sure it drops into the groove in the center.  For some
tires, I've had to use pry bars to force it down while I used the supplied
bar to lever the other side up and over the edge of the rim.

It will also give you an excellent upper body workout ... last dis/mount I
did with mine took me over an hour and I was sweating profusely by the time
I was done.

I used big lag bolts and lead expanding anchors directly into my garage
floor; then simply remove the bolts and move the changer to the corner when
I'm not using it.  Takes a lot of force, doesn't seem like wood would do the
trick, to me.

Oh yeah, I think America's Tire only charged me about $4 per tire for a
dismount, and maybe $3 to dispose of the tire.  For nine tires, I'd go to
them unless you really need the exercise.

Randall

From opposumking at verizon.net  Fri Oct  9 03:49:34 2009
From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan)
Date: Fri, 09 Oct 2009 05:49:34 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] HF Tire Changer
References: <COL115-W1C1E5D470C68621C6F2ADCCCB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8E72D51CA34D4F5CAA362CDEF5A2E2E8@mde.state.md.us>

Been using one for years, done well over a hundred wheels on it.  Works 
well, very well.




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Stone" <jandkstone99 at msn.com>
To: <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 10:03 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] HF Tire Changer


>I currently have 9 wheels with trash tires taking up space in my garage.
> Someday I'll get around to selling the ones I don't want, but for now I'd 
> like
> to get rid of the tires and store the wheels in less space.  I can take 
> them
> all to a tire place, but as I recall, they get about $10/wheel for 
> removing
> tires, plus the fee for recycling them.  For $50, I'm thinking about 
> buying an
> HF tire changer
> (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34542) 
> and
> doing the work myself.  I can then easily take them to the recycling 
> center,
> although I don't know if there is a consumer charge for turning them in.
>
> Has anyone ever used one of these or one like it?  Is it more trouble than 
> its
> worth?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jim
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service.
> http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222984/direct/01/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as opposumking at verizon.net
>
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>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Fri Oct  9 06:04:07 2009
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Fri, 09 Oct 2009 08:04:07 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] HF Tire Changer
In-Reply-To: <COL115-W1C1E5D470C68621C6F2ADCCCB0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL115-W1C1E5D470C68621C6F2ADCCCB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20091009080130.020c50e0@cox.net>

At 10:03 PM 10/8/2009, Jim Stone wrote:

 >... For $50, I'm thinking about buying an HF tire changer

 >  (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34542)

 >and doing the work myself.  I can then easily take them to the 
recycling center,
 >although I don't know if there is a consumer charge for turning them in.

Jim,

You might check your area and see if you have a Community college that has an
automotive course, or even one of the commercial schools like ATI, ECPI.  Run
by there and see if they'll break them down for you.  Usually, 
they'll take jobs
like that to give the students something to do, and to learn to use 
the equipment.


John
John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From eric at megageek.com  Fri Oct  9 06:37:41 2009
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 08:37:41 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] HF Tire Changer
Message-ID: <OF0BAD8C80.B60F42AF-ON8525764A.00455E7D-8525764A.00455E8B@mail.megageek.com>

I have one of these and they will work, but you need a little bit of
strength and resolve.  8>)

It REALLY needs to bolted down secure to work.  I've mounted mine to a
heavey duty pallet, so I can move it when I don't need it, but I may mount
it permently in another garage because it really needs to be 100% stable.



Moose
b
Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b
 Ralph
Waldo Emerson

From jandkstone99 at msn.com  Fri Oct  9 07:09:11 2009
From: jandkstone99 at msn.com (Jim Stone)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 08:09:11 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] HF Tire Changer
In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20091009080130.020c50e0@cox.net>
References: <COL115-W1C1E5D470C68621C6F2ADCCCB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <COL115-W1764ACDB475BA50D78B8C4CCCB0@phx.gbl>

Thanks Guys.  Everything here sounds about as expected, except Steve's comment
about not using it on any wheel I want to look nice.  5 of the wheels are
alloys that I bought for one of my Alpines.  It will be a while before I use
them (hence the desire to store them away), but I am going to want to refinish
and polish them. They have some marks on them already; I don't want to make it
worse.

I think I'll shop around a bit before buying this.

> Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 08:04:07 -0400
> To: shop-talk at autox.team.net
> From: jblair1948 at cox.net
> CC: shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] HF Tire Changer
>
> At 10:03 PM 10/8/2009, Jim Stone wrote:
>
>  >... For $50, I'm thinking about buying an HF tire changer
>
>  >
(http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34542)
>
>  >and doing the work myself.  I can then easily take them to the
> recycling center,
>  >although I don't know if there is a consumer charge for turning them in.
>
> Jim,
>
> You might check your area and see if you have a Community college that has
an
> automotive course, or even one of the commercial schools like ATI, ECPI.
Run
> by there and see if they'll break them down for you.  Usually,
> they'll take jobs
> like that to give the students something to do, and to learn to use
> the equipment.
>
>
> John
> John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
> Va. Beach, Va
> Phone:  (757) 495-8229
>
>            48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
>       75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
>                         65 Rambler Classic
>
> Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
> Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org
>
> If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
> If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as jandkstone99 at msn.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
 		 	   		  
_________________________________________________________________
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222985/direct/01/

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Fri Oct  9 07:40:50 2009
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 09:40:50 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] HF Tire Changer
In-Reply-To: <COL115-W1C1E5D470C68621C6F2ADCCCB0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL115-W1C1E5D470C68621C6F2ADCCCB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <6177380F41574C9EA46F001DE3537F41@EricJRussellPC>

I have the HF tire changer but use it mostly with their motorcycle adapter
for, umm, motorcycle tires*. (Motorcycle dealers charge full retail plus
often exorbitant mount & balance fees. 10,000 miles out of a motorcycle tire
is considered great mileage. On-line tire prices are sometimes 1/3 to 1/2 of
dealer prices so it doesn't take long to get back the cost of the HF tire
changer.)

As mentioned by others it will work best if solidly anchored to the floor. I
bolted mine to a 4'X4' piece of plywood. Thus, in use, I am standing on the
platform the tire changer is attached to and this works OK. Someday I will
likely put threaded inserts into the garage floor so it can be bolted down
with adequate working space all around it yet be removable between use.

I haven't needed to re-inforce the bead breaker but I can see the need if
one is trying to break 20 year old stubborn tires in one swell foop. I
usually just work my way around the bead, loosening it bit by bit.

The HF mount/demount bar is adequate at best. A machinist friend on a
motorcycle list made an improved version that has a tough plastic section on
the business end (delrin type material bolted to the bar with countersunk
screws). This avoids scratching the rim and also lowers friction making it
work much easier/better.

* The MC tire adapter will also work for MG wire wheels...

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell
----- Original Message ----- 

>For $50, I'm thinking about buying an HF tire changer

From opposumking at verizon.net  Fri Oct  9 08:34:12 2009
From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan)
Date: Fri, 09 Oct 2009 10:34:12 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] HF Tire Changer
References: <COL115-W1C1E5D470C68621C6F2ADCCCB0@phx.gbl>
	<COL115-W1764ACDB475BA50D78B8C4CCCB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <A287A46F7A7C4982B742DF3C58F92507@mde.state.md.us>

Any tire changer that works with a bar in the center going around the rim 
will rub the rim and marr it to some degree.  If you need to avoid all 
contact with the rim you need to find a shop that uses something like a 
Hunter A34 or other leverless unit.  You won't find that at your normal 
garage, but sometimes find it a the bling shops specializing in ricers.

The harbor freight tool rubs no worse than any other tire changing machine. 
Because it is new, it will leave red paint, just like a new commercial unit 
will.  Wire brush the paint off the contact area of the mounting arm to 
eliminate this.  Though after a few tires, it will be gone also.


> Thanks Guys.  Everything here sounds about as expected, except Steve's 
> comment
> about not using it on any wheel I want to look nice.  5 of the wheels are
> alloys that I bought for one of my Alpines.  It will be a while before I 
> use
> them (hence the desire to store them away), but I am going to want to 
> refinish
> and polish them. They have some marks on them already; I don't want to 
> make it
> worse.

From eric at megageek.com  Fri Oct  9 08:26:05 2009
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 10:26:05 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Electronic connector question
Message-ID: <OF60E3D385.CF812530-ON8525764A.004F4B16-8525764A.004F4B1B@mail.megageek.com>

OK, I have a working Raytheon R10 Marine radar unit that I want to sell
(cheap.)

The problem is, the idiot that removed it from the boat cut, the inter-unit
cable (the cable from the from the radar to the display.)

So I wanted to reconnect the wire to the connector before listing it for
sale.  (It's a 16 pin, waterproof screw on connector)

It my understanding how these connectors work is that you open the connect
up an expose the individual wires.  Then you cut the wire from the
individual female pin connector's backside.  Then there is a tool (that is
like a small metal straw) that you place over the connector and it pulls
out.  Then you can slide another connector in the hole.

The problem is, the only markings on the connect are "JAE" and "25-16."
Searching the web yields no clues on where to get the proper size "straw"
tool or where to get new female pin connectors.  I've done this before with
police siren connectors and I still have the tool, but it's too big for
this connector.

So, how or where do I find these pieces?  TIA.

(BTW, If anyone is interested in the radar unit, make me an offer.)


Moose
b
Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b
 Ralph
Waldo Emerson

From strovato at optonline.net  Fri Oct  9 09:19:08 2009
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Fri, 09 Oct 2009 11:19:08 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] HF Tire Changer
In-Reply-To: <COL115-W1C1E5D470C68621C6F2ADCCCB0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL115-W1C1E5D470C68621C6F2ADCCCB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <0KR900IC66LXCJH0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

Check out this site for some cool tire changing equipment:

http://www.nomartirechanger.com/

Take a look at their videos.  They make it all look so easy!  Anyway, 
I think the reason to have a tire changer, HF or otherwise, is really 
convenience for most people.  And a little bit of that "I just want 
to do it myself" attitude we all have on this list.  Unless you 
really change a lot of tires, the money saved is minimal.  If this is 
really just about 9 tires, ask around at a few places.  Just tell 
them you want to dismount 9 tires and you don't feel like spending a 
fortune.  Someone should offer you a "package deal".  If you do it 
when you're buying tires for some other car, or having some sort of 
work done, your negotiating position is even better.

-Steve Trovato
strovato at optonline.net

From pat at hornesystemstx.com  Fri Oct  9 09:27:44 2009
From: pat at hornesystemstx.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Fri, 09 Oct 2009 10:27:44 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Electronic connector question
In-Reply-To: <OF60E3D385.CF812530-ON8525764A.004F4B16-8525764A.004F4B1B@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF60E3D385.CF812530-ON8525764A.004F4B16-8525764A.004F4B1B@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <4ACF5670.1080809@hornesystemstx.com>

Moose,

JAE is a manufacturer of connectors. Check out their web site to see 
what you can find. It may be that your connector is a custom, and it is 
always possible, since it is a waterproof connector, that the pins can't 
be removed, but are cast in at the factory.

Good luck.

Peace,
Pat

Thusly spake eric at megageek.com, On 10/9/2009 9:26 AM:
> OK, I have a working Raytheon R10 Marine radar unit that I want to sell
> (cheap.)
>
> The problem is, the idiot that removed it from the boat cut, the inter-unit
> cable (the cable from the from the radar to the display.)
>
> So I wanted to reconnect the wire to the connector before listing it for
> sale.  (It's a 16 pin, waterproof screw on connector)
>
> It my understanding how these connectors work is that you open the connect
> up an expose the individual wires.  Then you cut the wire from the
> individual female pin connector's backside.  Then there is a tool (that is
> like a small metal straw) that you place over the connector and it pulls
> out.  Then you can slide another connector in the hole.
>
> The problem is, the only markings on the connect are "JAE" and "25-16."
> Searching the web yields no clues on where to get the proper size "straw"
> tool or where to get new female pin connectors.  I've done this before with
> police siren connectors and I still have the tool, but it's too big for
> this connector.
>
> So, how or where do I find these pieces?  TIA.
>
> (BTW, If anyone is interested in the radar unit, make me an offer.)
>
>
> Moose
> b
Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b
 Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as pat at hornesystemstx.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>
>   

-- 
Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems 
(512) 797-7501 Voice		5026 FM 2001
Pat at HorneSystemsTx.com	Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
www.hornesystemstx.com
-- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --

From strovato at optonline.net  Fri Oct  9 09:29:07 2009
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Fri, 09 Oct 2009 11:29:07 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Electronic connector question
Message-ID: <0KR900AWB70Z0PQ0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

Found this, might be of interest:

http://www.raymarine.com/raymarine/SubmittedFiles/Handbooks/Legacy_Handbooks/radar/r10x-r11x.pdf

Of course, they just say to buy a new cable.  But I think there is 
some information about the types of connectors that might be 
useful.  If I understand what this tool is, and all you really need 
is a metal "straw", why not take a look at the local hardware 
store?  My local Ace Hardware has a rack of brass tubing in different 
sizes.  Perhaps one of those would do it.

-Steve Trovato
strovato at optonline.net

From strovato at optonline.net  Fri Oct  9 09:38:41 2009
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Fri, 09 Oct 2009 11:38:41 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Electronic connector question
Message-ID: <0KR900BIN7G8G500@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

Found this place selling cables:

http://www.radarmarine.com/radar_cables.html

Holy crap!  Expensive little suckers.  

From rs1121 at earthlink.net  Fri Oct  9 09:39:22 2009
From: rs1121 at earthlink.net (Ron Schmittou)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 10:39:22 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Electronic connector question
In-Reply-To: <OF60E3D385.CF812530-ON8525764A.004F4B16-8525764A.004F4B1B@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF60E3D385.CF812530-ON8525764A.004F4B16-8525764A.004F4B1B@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <00f501ca48f6$b0b0ec60$1212c520$@net>

They are called "pin extraction" tools - Techni Tools website has them.


Thanks

Ron Schmittou
Ron_S at agps.us

Office (972) 359-1787
Cell (214) 862-1871


-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of eric at megageek.com
Sent: Friday, October 09, 2009 9:26 AM
To: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Electronic connector question

OK, I have a working Raytheon R10 Marine radar unit that I want to sell
(cheap.)

The problem is, the idiot that removed it from the boat cut, the inter-unit
cable (the cable from the from the radar to the display.)

So I wanted to reconnect the wire to the connector before listing it for
sale.  (It's a 16 pin, waterproof screw on connector)

It my understanding how these connectors work is that you open the connect
up an expose the individual wires.  Then you cut the wire from the
individual female pin connector's backside.  Then there is a tool (that is
like a small metal straw) that you place over the connector and it pulls
out.  Then you can slide another connector in the hole.

The problem is, the only markings on the connect are "JAE" and "25-16."
Searching the web yields no clues on where to get the proper size "straw"
tool or where to get new female pin connectors.  I've done this before with
police siren connectors and I still have the tool, but it's too big for
this connector.

So, how or where do I find these pieces?  TIA.

(BTW, If anyone is interested in the radar unit, make me an offer.)


Moose
bBe as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b Ralph
Waldo Emerson
You are subscribed as rs1121 at earthlink.net

Shop-talk mailing list

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk

http://www.team.net/archive

From cak at dimebank.com  Fri Oct  9 09:51:40 2009
From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 08:51:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Electronic connector question
Message-ID: <200910091551.n99FpeDJ023192@moose.dimebank.com>

There are about four zillion varieties of such things, unfortunately.

You could start browsing the digikey catalog on line and see if 
you can find a visual match - but the extraction tool will probably
be very expensive.

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Fri Oct  9 10:08:04 2009
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 12:08:04 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Electronic connector question
In-Reply-To: <0KR900BIN7G8G500@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
References: <0KR900BIN7G8G500@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Message-ID: <2400a5d40910090908w37a9d237l2e048a81190a70de@mail.gmail.com>

On Fri, Oct 9, 2009 at 11:38 AM, Steven Trovato <strovato at optonline.net>wrote:

> Found this place selling cables:
>
> http://www.radarmarine.com/radar_cables.html
>
> Holy crap!  Expensive little suckers.  ____________________________
>

Irt's for a boat.  Of course it's 50 times what it would cost for a cdar.


-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Fri Oct  9 10:15:54 2009
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 12:15:54 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] air compressor question
In-Reply-To: <1254953089.3785.2.camel@WebBrowser>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910071557280.21343@thunder.banklogic.net>
	<1254953089.3785.2.camel@WebBrowser>
Message-ID: <2400a5d40910090915k6b347a44kf727e1f28058913b@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, Oct 7, 2009 at 6:04 PM, mike rambour <mikey at b2systems.com> wrote:

> On Wed, 2009-10-07 at 16:07 -0400, Mark Andy wrote:
>
> > Anyway, looking at 'real' compressors, this one looks nice to me:
> >
> http://www.tptools.com/p/184,91_5-HP-2-Stage-Champion-Centurion-Series.html
> >
> > It has some of the highest cfm at 90psi I've seen, max pressure is
> 175psi,
> > and the pump runs at 805 rpm which I assume means it'll be pretty quiet.
> > The downside, of course, is price.  Its by far more expensive than any of
> > my other options.
>
> Can't speak about the others but the 80gallon model is the one I have,
> incredibly great compressor compared to Sears airless that I had before.
> Nice and quiet too, its in the garage and it does not bother me.  I was
> worried about the price (5 years ago) but now it no longer matters as I
> know better now, I have no doubt my daughter will be selling it or using
>

The shop I used to run had a pair of champion air compressors.  They were
great.   If you can afford this, get it.  One would have been nearly enough
for the four bay shop, most of the time, but there was also a car wash,
which required an amazing amount of air.  (Even when it wasn't leaking,
which was not all that often...)  Neither of them (one 7.5 hp one, very old;
one five HP, new) was particularly loud, but they weren't quite, either.

-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From parkanzky at gmail.com  Fri Oct  9 10:18:08 2009
From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 12:18:08 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Electronic connector question
In-Reply-To: <200910091551.n99FpeDJ023192@moose.dimebank.com>
References: <200910091551.n99FpeDJ023192@moose.dimebank.com>
Message-ID: <bdde53220910090918x7b18cc8dx8cea35a09b552420@mail.gmail.com>

When I was a grad student in East Lansing, there was a place called
"Fulton Radio Supply" in Lansing that I'd go to whenever I needed a
really obscure electronics bit.  It was the sort of place that had a
huge selection and people behind the counter that knew what they were
talking about.

Try to find a place like that around you.  Assuming the connector is
reusable, you could probably take the wire and the connector and leave
with them together for a reasonable price.  And if the connectors are
one time use, they'd be the place to go to source another.

The hard part is finding a place like that.  They always seem to be a
hole in the wall in a nasty part of town.

You said the cable is cut.  Is there a reason you can't splice the
wires back together with heat-shrink on each conductor and then on the
outer cable as well so that it is water-tight?

-Paul

On Fri, Oct 9, 2009 at 11:51 AM, Chris Kantarjiev <cak at dimebank.com> wrote:
> There are about four zillion varieties of such things, unfortunately.
>
> You could start browsing the digikey catalog on line and see if
> you can find a visual match - but the extraction tool will probably
> be very expensive.

From strovato at optonline.net  Fri Oct  9 10:48:44 2009
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Fri, 09 Oct 2009 12:48:44 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Electronic connector question
In-Reply-To: <bdde53220910090918x7b18cc8dx8cea35a09b552420@mail.gmail.co
  m>
References: <200910091551.n99FpeDJ023192@moose.dimebank.com>
	<bdde53220910090918x7b18cc8dx8cea35a09b552420@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0KR9007XHAP1CJR0@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

I'm afraid he might need a time machine.

At 12:18 PM 10/9/2009, Paul Parkanzky wrote:
>When I was a grad student in East Lansing, there was a place called
>"Fulton Radio Supply" in Lansing that I'd go to whenever I needed a
>really obscure electronics bit.  It was the sort of place that had a
>huge selection and people behind the counter that knew what they were
>talking about.
>
>Try to find a place like that around you.

From parkanzky at gmail.com  Fri Oct  9 11:34:31 2009
From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 13:34:31 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Electronic connector question
In-Reply-To: <0KR9007XHAP1CJR0@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
References: <200910091551.n99FpeDJ023192@moose.dimebank.com>
	<bdde53220910090918x7b18cc8dx8cea35a09b552420@mail.gmail.com>
	<0KR9007XHAP1CJR0@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Message-ID: <bdde53220910091034k52cda005h7413b474dac740d4@mail.gmail.com>

I know that it sounds like a long shot, but this wasn't _that_ long
ago (~5 years).  I checked while I was typing up my reply and the
place is still there.  Those places are well hidden though.  I would
have never found the place had my advisor not recommended it when I
needed some parts.

-Paul

On Fri, Oct 9, 2009 at 12:48 PM, Steven Trovato <strovato at optonline.net>
wrote:
> I'm afraid he might need a time machine.
>
> At 12:18 PM 10/9/2009, Paul Parkanzky wrote:
>>
>> When I was a grad student in East Lansing, there was a place called
>> "Fulton Radio Supply" in Lansing that I'd go to whenever I needed a
>> really obscure electronics bit.  It was the sort of place that had a
>> huge selection and people behind the counter that knew what they were
>> talking about.
>>
>> Try to find a place like that around you.

From Tim.Mullen at ngc.com  Fri Oct  9 11:58:26 2009
From: Tim.Mullen at ngc.com (Mullen, Tim (IS))
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 12:58:26 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Electronic connector question
In-Reply-To: <bdde53220910091034k52cda005h7413b474dac740d4@mail.gmail.com>
References: <200910091551.n99FpeDJ023192@moose.dimebank.com><bdde53220910090918x7b18cc8dx8cea35a09b552420@mail.gmail.com><0KR9007XHAP1CJR0@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
	<bdde53220910091034k52cda005h7413b474dac740d4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C7970391D48A@XMBIL103.northgrum.com>

Our local electronics hole-in-the-wall store is no longer.  Now I have
to search the internet for unusually parts.

As for the pin remover, last time I needed one, Radio Shack still had a
"RS-232" pin extractor for a couple of bucks in their parts drawers.
Although they are getting to have less and less such parts too...

Tim Mullen

From strovato at optonline.net  Fri Oct  9 12:14:15 2009
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Fri, 09 Oct 2009 14:14:15 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Electronic connector question
In-Reply-To: <9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C7970391D48A@XMBIL103.northgru m.com>
References: <200910091551.n99FpeDJ023192@moose.dimebank.com>
	<bdde53220910090918x7b18cc8dx8cea35a09b552420@mail.gmail.com>
	<0KR9007XHAP1CJR0@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
	<bdde53220910091034k52cda005h7413b474dac740d4@mail.gmail.com>
	<9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C7970391D48A@XMBIL103.northgrum.com>
Message-ID: <0KR9002RGENXZAW0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

I find that there is some variability with Radio Shack from store to 
store.  The ones in the malls tend to be the worst.  Mostly cell 
phones.  You are right, though, the place as a whole is way less 
useful than it used to be for parts and such.

At 01:58 PM 10/9/2009, Mullen, Tim (IS) wrote:
>As for the pin remover, last time I needed one, Radio Shack still had a
>"RS-232" pin extractor for a couple of bucks in their parts drawers.
>Although they are getting to have less and less such parts too...

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Oct  9 13:04:13 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 12:04:13 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] HF Tire Changer
In-Reply-To: <A287A46F7A7C4982B742DF3C58F92507@mde.state.md.us>
Message-ID: <20091009190414074.SHHV16663@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> If you need to 
> avoid all 
> contact with the rim you need to find a shop that uses 
> something like a 
> Hunter A34 or other leverless unit.  

Oddly enough, my local Wally-mart has two of those machines.  Unfortunately,
it appears that only a few of their technicians actually know how to operate
them.  The first one struggled for over an hour to mount two tires; the
second one gave up (and tried to claim that my 15" tires were the wrong size
for my 15" rims).

Randall

From doug at dougbraun.com  Fri Oct  9 13:33:42 2009
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 12:33:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Electronic connector question
In-Reply-To: <0KR9002RGENXZAW0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Message-ID: <985141.88526.qm@web602.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Back when Radio Shacks had a reasonable selection of electronic components,
they were often the only place in town.  Now anybody can get anything
mail-order from the Internet.  And there are lots distributors that gladly
take small orders, or orders from individuals.

And data sheets?  Before the
Web, hobbyists had to cajole or bluff their way with sales reps to get a copy.
Now you just download them.

The only problem now is that you can't actually
build anything, since all the parts are tiny and surface-mounted...

Doug

---
On Fri, 10/9/09, Steven Trovato <strovato at optonline.net> wrote:

> From:
Steven Trovato <strovato at optonline.net>
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Electronic
connector question
> To: "Mullen, Tim (IS)" <Tim.Mullen at ngc.com>
> Cc:
"shop-talk" <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> Date: Friday, October 9, 2009, 2:14
PM
> I find that there is some variability
> with Radio Shack from store to 
>
store.  The ones in the malls tend to be the
> worst.  Mostly cell 
> phones. 
You are right, though, the place as a whole
> is way less 
> useful than it
used to be for parts and such.
> 
> At 01:58 PM 10/9/2009, Mullen, Tim (IS)
wrote:
> >As for the pin remover, last time I needed one, Radio
> Shack still
had a
> >"RS-232" pin extractor for a couple of bucks in their
> parts
drawers.
> >Although they are getting to have less and less such
> parts
too...

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Fri Oct  9 14:04:46 2009
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Fri, 09 Oct 2009 16:04:46 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Electronic connector question
In-Reply-To: <985141.88526.qm@web602.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <0KR9002RGENXZAW0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
	<985141.88526.qm@web602.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20091009160023.020ab658@cox.net>

At 03:33 PM 10/9/2009, Doug Braun wrote:

 >Back when Radio Shacks had a reasonable selection of electronic components,
 >they were often the only place in town.  Now anybody can get anything
 >mail-order from the Internet.  And there are lots distributors that gladly
 >take small orders, or orders from individuals.

 >And data sheets?  Before the Web, hobbyists had to cajole or bluff their way
 >with sales reps to get a copy.  Now you just download them.

 >The only problem now is that you can't actually build anything, 
since all the
 >parts are tiny and surface-mounted...

Doug,

You can say that again.  Back some 45 yrs ago, when I first got in to 
ham radio
we used to have 4 electronics houses in town, besides Radio Shack.  You could
get coil forms, variable caps, anything to build or fix a 
radio.  Today, we're down to one place, and they don't stock much, 
cable, and some stuff in plastic bags. :(

I used to enjoy building Heath Kit equipment.  At least you could 
repair it.  But
then came the ICs, computer chips, and surface mount parts. :(  Now you're
lucky if you can get a replacement board for a piece of equipment.

John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From strovato at optonline.net  Fri Oct  9 14:36:30 2009
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Fri, 09 Oct 2009 16:36:30 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Electronic connector question
In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20091009160023.020ab658@cox.net>
References: <0KR9002RGENXZAW0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
	<985141.88526.qm@web602.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<6.2.5.6.1.20091009160023.020ab658@cox.net>
Message-ID: <0KR900FKXL8KXT80@mta3.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

Yeah, but heathkit part numbers were a pain.  They renumbered 
absolutely everything to their own system.  I think they were afraid 
someone would be able to build something from their instructions 
without actually buying the kit.

At 04:04 PM 10/9/2009, John T. Blair wrote:
>I used to enjoy building Heath Kit equipment.  At least you could repair it.

From Tim.Mullen at ngc.com  Fri Oct  9 14:48:46 2009
From: Tim.Mullen at ngc.com (Mullen, Tim (IS))
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 15:48:46 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Electronic connector question
In-Reply-To: <985141.88526.qm@web602.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <0KR9002RGENXZAW0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
	<985141.88526.qm@web602.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C7970391D55B@XMBIL103.northgrum.com>

Doug Braun
>
> The only problem now is that you can't actually build anything, since
> all the parts are tiny and surface-mounted...

The other problem is when you need to take in a part and find a
compatible
one - i.e. a connector that may come in multiple sizes.  You can't do
that
on the internet.  Similar to going to a hardware store and everything is
in
sealed packages - you can't see if the fitting threads on to the one in
your
hand like you could in old fashioned hardware stores...

Tim

From mark at sccaprepared.com  Fri Oct  9 15:03:13 2009
From: mark at sccaprepared.com (Mark Andy)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 17:03:13 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] HF Tire Changer
In-Reply-To: <0KR900IC66LXCJH0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
References: <COL115-W1C1E5D470C68621C6F2ADCCCB0@phx.gbl>
	<0KR900IC66LXCJH0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910091658540.21736@thunder.banklogic.net>

Howdy,

On Fri, 9 Oct 2009, Steven Trovato wrote:
> http://www.nomartirechanger.com/
>
> Take a look at their videos.  They make it all look so easy!

I can see something like that setup if you don't have power or air 
available, but when basic powered rim clamp tire machines are $900 or so 
new and used can be had for less, I think a hand powered setup like this 
would be a bad choice.

> Anyway, I think the reason to have a tire changer, HF or otherwise, is 
> really convenience for most people.  And a little bit of that "I just 
> want to do it myself" attitude we all have on this list.  Unless you 
> really change a lot of tires, the money saved is minimal.  If this is 
> really just about 9 tires, ask around at a few places.  Just tell them 
> you want to dismount 9 tires and you don't feel like spending a fortune. 
> Someone should offer you a "package deal".  If you do it when you're 
> buying tires for some other car, or having some sort of work done, your 
> negotiating position is even better.

I have an old RC-1 Coats machine that I got for free because a buddy owed 
me a favor.  Even if I'd bought it, its long since paid for itself over 
the years.  I've probably mounted twenty or thirty sets of tires with it 
at a minimum.  Biggest thing for me is convience... When I want to get a 
set of race tires mounted up I go out to the garage and do it, no need to 
wait for daytime, drive to the shop, etc.

And if it were me needing to dismount 9 tires and I didn't care about the 
tires, I'd probably try cutting them off before I bought a tire machine.

Mark

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Fri Oct  9 15:48:35 2009
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 17:48:35 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Electronic connector question
In-Reply-To: <9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C7970391D55B@XMBIL103.northgrum.com>
References: <0KR9002RGENXZAW0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
	<985141.88526.qm@web602.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C7970391D55B@XMBIL103.northgrum.com>
Message-ID: <2400a5d40910091448v5b5bdc94v796f1ce18f261b66@mail.gmail.com>

On Fri, Oct 9, 2009 at 4:48 PM, Mullen, Tim (IS) <Tim.Mullen at ngc.com> wrote:

> Doug Braun
> >
> > The only problem now is that you can't actually build anything, since
> > all the parts are tiny and surface-mounted...
>
> The other problem is when you need to take in a part and find a
> compatible
> one - i.e. a connector that may come in multiple sizes.  You can't do
> that
> on the internet.  Similar to going to a hardware store and everything is
> in
> sealed packages - you can't see if the fitting threads on to the one in
> your
> hand like you could in old fashioned hardware stores..
>

I have no shame about opening packages to see stuff like that.

-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From jandkstone99 at msn.com  Fri Oct  9 17:47:03 2009
From: jandkstone99 at msn.com (Jim Stone)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 18:47:03 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] HF Tire Changer
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910091658540.21736@thunder.banklogic.net>
References: <COL115-W1C1E5D470C68621C6F2ADCCCB0@phx.gbl>
	<0KR900IC66LXCJH0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> 
Message-ID: <COL115-W36E0315BEF94F8D4D410D7CCCB0@phx.gbl>

> And if it were me needing to dismount 9 tires and I didn't care about the
> tires, I'd probably try cutting them off before I bought a tire machine.
>
> Mark

I considered that, but it would seem to me that trying to remove tires this
way would potentially be more difficult (and damaging) than using a cheap
changer.  Is there a way to safely do this?
 		 	   		  
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222986/direct/01/

From doug at dougbraun.com  Fri Oct  9 17:51:16 2009
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 16:51:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] air compressor question
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910080219300.8160@thunder.banklogic.net>
Message-ID: <802607.27803.qm@web601.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

BTW, I was at Hershey yesterday, and the TP Tools tent had a lot of business.  Myself, I bought some new nozzles and a box of glass beads.

Originally I had beads from them, but the last batch I bought was from Tractor Supply, and they seemed a lot finer and less uniform ("dustier"),
and they got used up more quickly than the TP Tools beads.

Doug

--- On Thu, 10/8/09, Mark Andy <mark at sccaprepared.com> wrote:


> In my position, its hard to justify more than double the
> cost of the 5hp one for the TP tools name brand setup, even
> with TP tools just down the road from me.
> 
> Mark

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Oct  9 18:27:56 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 17:27:56 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] HF Tire Changer
In-Reply-To: <COL115-W36E0315BEF94F8D4D410D7CCCB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20091010002756762.BPXD16663@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> Is there a way to safely do this?

If there is any way that is even easier than using a changer, I'd sure like
to hear about it.  Even sidewalls are incredibly tough; let alone the steel
belts behind the tread.

Randall

From mark at sccaprepared.com  Fri Oct  9 18:45:47 2009
From: mark at sccaprepared.com (Mark Andy)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 20:45:47 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] HF Tire Changer
In-Reply-To: <COL115-W36E0315BEF94F8D4D410D7CCCB0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL115-W1C1E5D470C68621C6F2ADCCCB0@phx.gbl>
	<0KR900IC66LXCJH0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> 
	<COL115-W36E0315BEF94F8D4D410D7CCCB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910092045230.26914@thunder.banklogic.net>

Howdy,

On Fri, 9 Oct 2009, Jim Stone wrote:
>> And if it were me needing to dismount 9 tires and I didn't care about the
>> tires, I'd probably try cutting them off before I bought a tire machine.
>
> I considered that, but it would seem to me that trying to remove tires this
> way would potentially be more difficult (and damaging) than using a cheap
> changer.  Is there a way to safely do this?

Beats me.  I'd do it with my tire machine.

:-)

Mark

From dhlocker at comcast.net  Fri Oct  9 19:36:55 2009
From: dhlocker at comcast.net (Donald H Locker)
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 01:36:55 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Electronic connector question
In-Reply-To: <0KR9007XHAP1CJR0@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Message-ID: <826329102.2337231255138615226.JavaMail.root@sz0052a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Purchase Radio Supply in Ann Arbor closed last year, too.  Or maybe it was the year before.  Sad.  They had ANYTHING and knew what it was.

Donald.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven Trovato" <strovato at optonline.net>
To: "Paul Parkanzky" <parkanzky at gmail.com>, "shop-talk" <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 9, 2009 12:48:44 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Electronic connector question

I'm afraid he might need a time machine.

At 12:18 PM 10/9/2009, Paul Parkanzky wrote:
>When I was a grad student in East Lansing, there was a place called
>"Fulton Radio Supply" in Lansing that I'd go to whenever I needed a
>really obscure electronics bit.  It was the sort of place that had a
>huge selection and people behind the counter that knew what they were
>talking about.
>
>Try to find a place like that around you.

From sdillen at telus.net  Fri Oct  9 20:49:12 2009
From: sdillen at telus.net (Steve Dillen)
Date: Fri, 09 Oct 2009 19:49:12 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] [Fwd: Re:  HF Tire Changer]
Message-ID: <4ACFF628.8090801@telus.net>

doh....replied to Mark instead of to the list.....

I tried that once.  I used a sawzall to cut the sidewall around and
>THEN< found out that there was no 'body' left to the tire to help
unseat the bead.  It was NOT a fun project and really just made a huge
mess.  $50 for a bracket that'll hold the rim in place and the iron to
lever the bead over the edge of the rim is cheap, and for steel rims
like those on my utility trailer and Jeep it works fine.  I just
wouldn't use one of these manual machines to swap tires on my wife's 7
series BMW!

In a pinch, I have had some success using a high-lift jack to unseat the
bead and then a pair of big screwdrivers and a crowbar (wonderbar type)
to remove the tire (that's my approach for an offroad trail repair if a
plug won't do the trick)....but it is a LOT of work.

Steve Dillen
Maple Ridge, BC
> And if it were me needing to dismount 9 tires and I didn't care about
> the tires, I'd probably try cutting them off before I bought a tire
> machine.
>
> Mark

From racertod at racertodd.com  Fri Oct  9 21:01:29 2009
From: racertod at racertodd.com (Todd Walke)
Date: Fri, 09 Oct 2009 20:01:29 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Electronic connector question
In-Reply-To: <OF60E3D385.CF812530-ON8525764A.004F4B16-8525764A.004F4B1B@
	mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20091009195215.00c26c58@mail.blarg.net>

         Googling lead me to think this may be a JAE's SRCN series.  Part 
numbers vary, depending on thread diameter and if it has male pins or 
female sockets.
http://www.jae.co.uk/catalogue/new_cat_2005/input_output/SRCN.pdf

         Digi-Key carries them:  http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/B092/P0414.pdf .
         They'd likely know what tools or pins to use.

         Mouser also carries them.  www.mouser.com


Todd
Seattle,WA
'86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 270,000 miles
'01 Golf TDI, silver.   (new work car)       219,000 miles
'87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car)   654,000 miles <- Gone to a new 
home :(
http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff

From halfnights at shaw.ca  Fri Oct  9 22:24:53 2009
From: halfnights at shaw.ca (Art Halfnights)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 21:24:53 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw: Compressors?
Message-ID: <002301ca4961$9d494300$f39701ae@home>

Subject: Compressors?


Howdy Group   one thing I missed when I bought mine.  You usually can adjust
the pressure switch so that it will come on more often, the need of higher
pressue for glass beading or sand blasting.  What I missed was that the
manufacturer took the unloader pressure from the pressure switch, therefore
not adjustable and I have'nt been able to figure out how to pumb it any other
way.  Therefore I have to wait for the tank to loose most of its high pressure
before the compressor will come on.  NOT NICE.  Regards  Art Halfnights  Maple
Ridge B.C Canada

From eric at megageek.com  Sat Oct 10 05:09:56 2009
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 07:09:56 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Electronic connector question
In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.2.20091009195215.00c26c58@mail.blarg.net>
Message-ID: <OFAADE1296.672ABBBA-ON8525764B.003D2823-8525764B.003EDD91@mail.megageek.com>

Todd,

Thanks, this is the exact connector I need.  Now I just need to see if I 
can buy just one connector.  (of if someone wants to buy this Raytheon R10 
Raster Scan Unit, radar, display, and cut cable from me for $200 it is 
yours!) 

Moose
b
Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b
 Ralph 
Waldo Emerson



Todd Walke <racertod at racertodd.com> 
Sent by: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
10/09/2009 23:06

To
shop-talk at autox.team.net
cc

Subject
Re: [Shop-talk] Electronic connector question






         Googling lead me to think this may be a JAE's SRCN series.  Part 
numbers vary, depending on thread diameter and if it has male pins or 
female sockets.
http://www.jae.co.uk/catalogue/new_cat_2005/input_output/SRCN.pdf

         Digi-Key carries them:  
http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/B092/P0414.pdf .
         They'd likely know what tools or pins to use.

         Mouser also carries them.  www.mouser.com


Todd

From battmain at yahoo.com  Sun Oct 11 18:40:16 2009
From: battmain at yahoo.com (Battmain)
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 17:40:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] HF Tire Changer
In-Reply-To: <COL115-W1C1E5D470C68621C6F2ADCCCB0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL115-W1C1E5D470C68621C6F2ADCCCB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <659889.58023.qm@web57001.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

Unless you're using trailer wheels or regular passenger tires with
large (read-soft) sidewalls don't bother. I have one of those changers. 
I've suceeded in changing trailer tires. I carried two trailer spares on my 
trips.. Race tires, I did one, well half of one. After that I got fed up with it. 
The race tires were so stiff, I had one person standing on the bead to get 
it to the groove of the wheel, while I was prying with the bar. We got one 
side on and gave up. A tire machine is on the list as soon as I find 
space. Locally, it's $25 average to change one tire and some places 
will not mount tires they didn't sell you. That's my reason to justify a tire
machine. A real one. :)

Brian
battmain at yahoo.com


----- Original Message ----
From: Jim Stone <jandkstone99 at msn.com>
To: shop-talk at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, October 8, 2009 10:03:30 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] HF Tire Changer

(snip)
Has anyone ever used one of these or one like it?  Is it more trouble than its
worth?

Thanks.

Jim

From strovato at optonline.net  Sun Oct 11 19:17:05 2009
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 21:17:05 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] HF Tire Changer
In-Reply-To: <659889.58023.qm@web57001.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
References: <COL115-W1C1E5D470C68621C6F2ADCCCB0@phx.gbl>
	<659889.58023.qm@web57001.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0KRD001ZPNK2QJD0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

If you go to the tirerack website, you can get a list of installers 
who will install tires purchased from them.  I have found that as 
online dealers like tirerack have caught on, more places are willing 
to do just the installation.  I have also found that often, they will 
match the tirerack price, once you factor in shipping.

At 08:40 PM 10/11/2009, Battmain wrote:
>Locally, it's $25 average to change one tire and some places
>will not mount tires they didn't sell you.

From jandkstone99 at msn.com  Mon Oct 12 09:00:26 2009
From: jandkstone99 at msn.com (Jim Stone)
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 10:00:26 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] HF Tire Changer
In-Reply-To: <0KRD001ZPNK2QJD0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
References: <COL115-W1C1E5D470C68621C6F2ADCCCB0@phx.gbl>
	<659889.58023.qm@web57001.mail.re3.yahoo.com> 
Message-ID: <COL115-W182C4D82A611BC6B5F43C1CCC80@phx.gbl>

I found the same thing in St. Louis a few years ago.  In fact, the guy who
mounted my TireRack tires told me that was the only reason he was one of their
installers.  once I learned that, I would check TR's prices, then check in
with him.  He couldn't always match their prices, but was happy to mount them
when he couldn't.

> Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 21:17:05 -0400
> From: strovato at optonline.net
> To: battmain at yahoo.com; shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] HF Tire Changer
>
> If you go to the tirerack website, you can get a list of installers
> who will install tires purchased from them.  I have found that as
> online dealers like tirerack have caught on, more places are willing
> to do just the installation.  I have also found that often, they will
> match the tirerack price, once you factor in shipping.
>
> At 08:40 PM 10/11/2009, Battmain wrote:
> >Locally, it's $25 average to change one tire and some places
> >will not mount tires they didn't sell you.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as jandkstone99 at msn.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
 		 	   		  
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From mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org  Mon Oct 12 10:46:16 2009
From: mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org (Jimmie Mayfield)
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 12:46:16 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Roofing options for access to a steep roof
Message-ID: <20091012164616.GA45530@sackheads.org>

It's about time to have my roof reshingled.  It's fairly steep (12-12) and 
I need access to parts of it from time to time to reach some of the 2nd floor
gutters and soffits.  Even with gutter guards I find that I need to clean them
out every 4-5 years and I won't talk about the time I had to climb up there
to reinforce the soffits to keep raccoons out...

I've never felt comfortable using sofa cushions like some roofers use so the
3 or 4 times I've needed to climb up there, I've nailed some 2x6s to stand
against, patching the holes as I came down.  For the new roof, I want to do
something that doesn't put new holes in the roof every time I need to
get up there.

I'm thinking maybe some permanent L-brackets that I can mount boards to when
I need to climb up there.  Anyone ever done something like this?  Any 
better alternatives?

JM

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Mon Oct 12 11:29:31 2009
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 13:29:31 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Roofing options for access to a steep roof
In-Reply-To: <20091012164616.GA45530@sackheads.org>
References: <20091012164616.GA45530@sackheads.org>
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20091012132802.020b4bc0@cox.net>

At 12:46 PM 10/12/2009, Jimmie Mayfield wrote:

 >.....I've nailed some 2x6s to stand against, patching the holes as 
I came down.
 >For the new roof, I want to do something that doesn't put new holes 
in the roof
 >every time I need to get up there.

Jim,

I usually just throw a line over the house and tie it to a tree, door knob, or
something.  Then I wear a lineman's belt and tie the rope to that.  Pay out
line and I need, or pull it tight.

John
John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From strovato at optonline.net  Mon Oct 12 12:24:19 2009
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 14:24:19 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Roofing options for access to a steep roof
In-Reply-To: <20091012164616.GA45530@sackheads.org>
References: <20091012164616.GA45530@sackheads.org>
Message-ID: <0KRE001PIZ42ML40@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

There are roofing brackets made for this purpose, but they are 
usually not left permanently installed.  Check here for an 
example:  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000224N2.  The idea is 
that as you install the roof, you nail up these brackets.  Then, 
because of the angled nail slots, you can push up on the bracket and 
remove it from under the shingle that is now on top.  Pretty much 
anything you leave up there permanently would be less than 
attractive.  Is this out of view or in a place where appearance 
doesn't matter?  And John, you're putting a lot of faith in a 
doorknob.  Make sure your insurance is paid up!  :-)

-Steve Trovato
strovato at optonline.net

At 12:46 PM 10/12/2009, Jimmie Mayfield wrote:

>I'm thinking maybe some permanent L-brackets that I can mount boards to when
>I need to climb up there.  Anyone ever done something like this?  Any
>better alternatives?

From mark at sccaprepared.com  Mon Oct 12 12:41:46 2009
From: mark at sccaprepared.com (Mark Andy)
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 14:41:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Roofing options for access to a steep roof
In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20091012132802.020b4bc0@cox.net>
References: <20091012164616.GA45530@sackheads.org>
	<6.2.5.6.1.20091012132802.020b4bc0@cox.net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910121441200.16218@thunder.banklogic.net>

Howdy,

On Mon, 12 Oct 2009, John T. Blair wrote:
> I usually just throw a line over the house and tie it to a tree, door 
> knob, or something.  Then I wear a lineman's belt and tie the rope to 
> that.  Pay out line and I need, or pull it tight.

You trust doorknobs a _hell_ of a lot more than I do.

Just saying.  :-)

Mark

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Mon Oct 12 14:16:41 2009
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 16:16:41 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Roofing options for access to a steep roof
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910121441200.16218@thunder.banklogic.net>
References: <20091012164616.GA45530@sackheads.org>
	<6.2.5.6.1.20091012132802.020b4bc0@cox.net>
	<Pine.LNX.4.64.0910121441200.16218@thunder.banklogic.net>
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20091012161303.020cc2a8@cox.net>

At 02:41 PM 10/12/2009, Mark Andy wrote:

 >You trust doorknobs a _hell_ of a lot more than I do.

Not really.  It's a last resort kinda of thing, and I'm not putting 
all my weight
(unless I fall) in it.  :)

John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Mon Oct 12 15:10:52 2009
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 17:10:52 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Roofing options for access to a steep roof
In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20091012161303.020cc2a8@cox.net>
References: <20091012164616.GA45530@sackheads.org>
	<6.2.5.6.1.20091012132802.020b4bc0@cox.net>
	<Pine.LNX.4.64.0910121441200.16218@thunder.banklogic.net>
	<6.2.5.6.1.20091012161303.020cc2a8@cox.net>
Message-ID: <2400a5d40910121410n53cba84en8b35f352618421c8@mail.gmail.com>

On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 4:16 PM, John T. Blair <jblair1948 at cox.net> wrote:

> At 02:41 PM 10/12/2009, Mark Andy wrote:
>
> >You trust doorknobs a _hell_ of a lot more than I do.
>
> Not really.  It's a last resort kinda of thing, and I'm not putting all my
> weight
> (unless I fall) in it.  :)
>

Except, of course, the time you need it to work is when you can't do
anything if it doesn't.

Stick with the trees...

-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From dreinsch at swbell.net  Mon Oct 12 15:27:09 2009
From: dreinsch at swbell.net (Dwade Reinsch)
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 14:27:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Roofing options for access to a steep roof
In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20091012161303.020cc2a8@cox.net>
Message-ID: <433767.61573.qm@web80203.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

But if you fell, that would be the only time you REALLY needed the doorknob to
hold, right?
 
My brother in law fell off one story garage, broke his pelvis, lay in the yard
most of the day, and then took about a year before he could move without
pain. 
 
YMMV,
 
Dwade

--- On Mon, 10/12/09, John T. Blair <jblair1948 at cox.net> wrote:


From: John T. Blair <jblair1948 at cox.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Roofing options for access to a steep roof
To: shop-talk at autox.team.net
Date: Monday, October 12, 2009, 3:16 PM


At 02:41 PM 10/12/2009, Mark Andy wrote:

>You trust doorknobs a _hell_ of a lot more than I do.

Not really.  It's a last resort kinda of thing, and I'm not putting all my
weight
(unless I fall) in it.  :)

John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

          48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
     75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                       65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!
You are subscribed as dreinsch at swbell.net

Shop-talk mailing list

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk

http://www.team.net/archive

From jibjib at att.net  Mon Oct 12 20:02:29 2009
From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks)
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 19:02:29 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Roofing options for access to a steep roof
In-Reply-To: <433767.61573.qm@web80203.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <6.2.5.6.1.20091012161303.020cc2a8@cox.net>
	<433767.61573.qm@web80203.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <666D129F89FB4F2AA999C8984ED5B0BE@hpa1477c>

I stopped cleaning my own gutters, 2&3 stories up, when I heard, from the
third guy, how he lost his Dad, when he fell off the roof of their house.

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dwade Reinsch
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2009 2:27 PM
To: shop-talk at autox.team.net; John T. Blair
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Roofing options for access to a steep roof

But if you fell, that would be the only time you REALLY needed the doorknob
to
hold, right?
 
My brother in law fell off one story garage, broke his pelvis, lay in the
yard
most of the day, and then took about a year before he could move without
pain. 
 
YMMV,
 
Dwade

--- On Mon, 10/12/09, John T. Blair <jblair1948 at cox.net> wrote:


From: John T. Blair <jblair1948 at cox.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Roofing options for access to a steep roof
To: shop-talk at autox.team.net
Date: Monday, October 12, 2009, 3:16 PM


At 02:41 PM 10/12/2009, Mark Andy wrote:

>You trust doorknobs a _hell_ of a lot more than I do.

Not really.  It's a last resort kinda of thing, and I'm not putting all my
weight
(unless I fall) in it.  :)

John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

          48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
     75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                       65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!
You are subscribed as dreinsch at swbell.net

Shop-talk mailing list

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk

http://www.team.net/archive
You are subscribed as jibjib at att.net

Shop-talk mailing list

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From mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org  Tue Oct 13 06:57:26 2009
From: mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org (Jimmie Mayfield)
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 08:57:26 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Roofing options for access to a steep roof
In-Reply-To: <0KRE001PIZ42ML40@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
References: <20091012164616.GA45530@sackheads.org>
	<0KRE001PIZ42ML40@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Message-ID: <20091013125726.GA24771@sackheads.org>

On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 02:24:19PM -0400, Steven Trovato wrote:
> There are roofing brackets made for this purpose, but they are usually not 
> left permanently installed.  Check here for an example:  
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000224N2.  The idea is that as you 
> install the roof, you nail up these brackets.  Then, because of the angled 
> nail slots, you can push up on the bracket and remove it from under the 
> shingle that is now on top.  Pretty much anything you leave up there 
> permanently would be less than attractive.  Is this out of view or in a 
> place where appearance doesn't matter?  

That's similar to what I was thinking about.  I suppose for aesthetics,
the bracket itself wouldn't need to be attached permanently.  I suppose 
the only permanent part need be some threaded studs that the brackets could
attach to.  Not sure how well something like that could be weather-sealed,
though.

As far as visibility, they'll be partially obscured by trees but otherwise 
visible.  

JM

From pat at hornesystemstx.com  Tue Oct 13 07:42:28 2009
From: pat at hornesystemstx.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 08:42:28 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Roofing options for access to a steep roof
In-Reply-To: <20091013125726.GA24771@sackheads.org>
References: <20091012164616.GA45530@sackheads.org>
	<0KRE001PIZ42ML40@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
	<20091013125726.GA24771@sackheads.org>
Message-ID: <4AD483C4.6000806@hornesystemstx.com>

The Jimmie,

The attachment points could be under the shingles, then the bracket just 
slid up, off the nails, etc, then slid out from under the shingles. The 
hardest thing may be to find the nails/screws next time you need to put 
the brackets back on. I suppose the easiest way to find them again would 
be to mark their locations on the lower gutter, or roof edge, and 
measure that same dimension on each course where they are to be 
attached, that way it would be easier to locate them next time. I 
suggest that you locate them where they anchor into the rafter, and not 
just into the decking.

Peace,
Pat

Thusly spake Jimmie Mayfield, On 10/13/2009 7:57 AM:
> On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 02:24:19PM -0400, Steven Trovato wrote:
>   
>> There are roofing brackets made for this purpose, but they are usually not 
>> left permanently installed.  Check here for an example:  
>> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000224N2.  The idea is that as you 
>> install the roof, you nail up these brackets.  Then, because of the angled 
>> nail slots, you can push up on the bracket and remove it from under the 
>> shingle that is now on top.  Pretty much anything you leave up there 
>> permanently would be less than attractive.  Is this out of view or in a 
>> place where appearance doesn't matter?  
>>     
>
> That's similar to what I was thinking about.  I suppose for aesthetics,
> the bracket itself wouldn't need to be attached permanently.  I suppose 
> the only permanent part need be some threaded studs that the brackets could
> attach to.  Not sure how well something like that could be weather-sealed,
> though.
>
> As far as visibility, they'll be partially obscured by trees but otherwise 
> visible.  
>
> JM
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as pat at hornesystemstx.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>
>   

-- 
Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems 
(512) 797-7501 Voice		5026 FM 2001
Pat at HorneSystemsTx.com	Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
www.hornesystemstx.com
-- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --

From eric at megageek.com  Thu Oct 15 14:29:37 2009
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 16:29:37 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Lawn items for sale
Message-ID: <OFC37897F8.83501D1F-ON85257650.00709379-85257650.0070937F@mail.megageek.com>

Forgive me if this is out of line, but I needed to get rid fo these things.

I have two items on ebay now.  One is a chipper/Shredder and the is a lawn
sprayer.

Both need a little TLC (perfect for the readers of this list.)

If you are interested in either, let me know.  (of course, people here get
a discount!)

Chipper Shredder...
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270470345654&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT>


Lawn Sprayer...
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270470362070&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT>




Moose
b
Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b
 Ralph
Waldo Emerson

From jandkstone99 at msn.com  Sat Oct 17 17:50:36 2009
From: jandkstone99 at msn.com (Jim Stone)
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 18:50:36 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Power Washer engine question
Message-ID: <COL115-W531A0957D38BDCE7520402CCC30@phx.gbl>

I have a Power Washer with a 6.5 HP Briggs and Stratton engine.  I bought it
about 7 years ago from Home Depot an I don't use it all that often. About 4
years ago I forgot to add Stabil to the gas before storing it away.  It was a
year (or two) before I tried to use it again and, as you can imagine, it
wouldn't start.  I could get it to run briefly with starting fluid, but that
was it.  I just put it away, deciding I'd fix it Maqana .  Maqana arrived last
weekend and I drained the now four year old gas (very yellow!), took the
carburetor apart and cleaned the jets, and re-assembled everything.
Amazingly, it started up pretty quickly when I was done!  So far, so good.

It runs fairly smoothly with the choke set to "Start" and does a decent job of
power washing.  However, the engine dies as soon as I move it to the "Run"
setting, regardless of how long I let it run and warm up first.  I can move
the choke part way in and it continues running, but it then dies as soon as I
squeeze the washer trigger.

Before I start fooling around with the choke settings (the owner's manual is
pretty pitiful, but does indicate that the choke can be adjusted), can anyone
think of another reason for it to run like this?  The choke worked fine when I
last used the washer and it doesn't seem likely to me that bad gas would
affect that adjustment.

Thanks.

Jim

_________________________________________________________________
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222985/direct/01/

From bjzwissler at gmail.com  Sat Oct 17 18:06:22 2009
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Ben Zwissler)
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 20:06:22 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Power Washer engine question
In-Reply-To: <COL115-W531A0957D38BDCE7520402CCC30@phx.gbl>
References: <COL115-W531A0957D38BDCE7520402CCC30@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4ADA5BFE.3090206@gmail.com>

Jim,

The problem is not your choke.  Your carb is not clean enough yet.  
You've got a fuel restriction somewhere that's not allowing the carb to 
deliver enough fuel when the power demand goes high.  Check for a 
plugged filter (if there is one), the fuel line, the float valve and if 
there's nothing there, then reclean the jets again.

The choke is just masking the problem by enriching the mixture to make 
up for the fuel restriction but you'll never get full power that way 
since the choke will be partially blocking the air flow into the carb.

Ben......


Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at gmail.com
Columbus, IN
1966 Triumph TR4A
1973 MG Midget
1980 Triumph TR8
2007 Mazda RX8
2002 Yamaha FZ1
2003 Honda ST1300


On 10/17/2009 7:50 PM, Jim Stone wrote:
> I have a Power Washer with a 6.5 HP Briggs and Stratton engine.  I bought it
> about 7 years ago from Home Depot an I don't use it all that often. About 4
> years ago I forgot to add Stabil to the gas before storing it away.  It was a
> year (or two) before I tried to use it again and, as you can imagine, it
> wouldn't start.  I could get it to run briefly with starting fluid, but that
> was it.  I just put it away, deciding I'd fix it Maqana .  Maqana arrived last
> weekend and I drained the now four year old gas (very yellow!), took the
> carburetor apart and cleaned the jets, and re-assembled everything.
> Amazingly, it started up pretty quickly when I was done!  So far, so good.
>
> It runs fairly smoothly with the choke set to "Start" and does a decent job of
> power washing.  However, the engine dies as soon as I move it to the "Run"
> setting, regardless of how long I let it run and warm up first.  I can move
> the choke part way in and it continues running, but it then dies as soon as I
> squeeze the washer trigger.
>
> Before I start fooling around with the choke settings (the owner's manual is
> pretty pitiful, but does indicate that the choke can be adjusted), can anyone
> think of another reason for it to run like this?  The choke worked fine when I
> last used the washer and it doesn't seem likely to me that bad gas would
> affect that adjustment.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jim
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free.
> http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222985/direct/01/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as bjzwissler at gmail.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Oct 17 18:16:14 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 17:16:14 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Power Washer engine question
In-Reply-To: <COL115-W531A0957D38BDCE7520402CCC30@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20091018001614007.YNIP3542@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> It runs fairly smoothly with the choke set to "Start" and 
> does a decent job of
> power washing.  However, the engine dies as soon as I move it 
> to the "Run"
> setting, regardless of how long I let it run and warm up 
> first.  I can move
> the choke part way in and it continues running, but it then 
> dies as soon as I
> squeeze the washer trigger.

IMO The choke's not the problem; you've still got a plugged jet or passage
somewhere that isn't passing enough fuel.  
It's possible there was an adjustment that didn't get restored during the
cleaning process, but I think a plug is more likely.

Modern gasohol seems to "set up" much harder than the old gasoline did; I
had to literally chip away the deposits in my lawnmower carb.  Ordinary carb
cleaner didn't phase them.

Randall

From cavanadd at verizon.net  Sat Oct 17 18:34:20 2009
From: cavanadd at verizon.net (David C.)
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 17:34:20 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Power Washer engine question
In-Reply-To: <4ADA5BFE.3090206@gmail.com>
References: <COL115-W531A0957D38BDCE7520402CCC30@phx.gbl>
	<4ADA5BFE.3090206@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4ADA628C.3000706@verizon.net>

What Ben said.  Classic example of a plugged main jet or the fuel 
passage to the main jet.

Ben Zwissler wrote:
> Jim,
>
> The problem is not your choke.  Your carb is not clean enough yet.  
> You've got a fuel restriction somewhere that's not allowing the carb 
> to deliver enough fuel when the power demand goes high.  Check for a 
> plugged filter (if there is one), the fuel line, the float valve and 
> if there's nothing there, then reclean the jets again.
>
> The choke is just masking the problem by enriching the mixture to make 
> up for the fuel restriction but you'll never get full power that way 
> since the choke will be partially blocking the air flow into the carb.
>
> Ben......
>
>
> Ben Zwissler
> bjzwissler at gmail.com
> Columbus, IN
> 1966 Triumph TR4A
> 1973 MG Midget
> 1980 Triumph TR8
> 2007 Mazda RX8
> 2002 Yamaha FZ1
> 2003 Honda ST1300
>
>
> On 10/17/2009 7:50 PM, Jim Stone wrote:
>> I have a Power Washer with a 6.5 HP Briggs and Stratton engine.  I 
>> bought it
>> about 7 years ago from Home Depot an I don't use it all that often. 
>> About 4
>> years ago I forgot to add Stabil to the gas before storing it away.  
>> It was a
>> year (or two) before I tried to use it again and, as you can imagine, it
>> wouldn't start.  I could get it to run briefly with starting fluid, 
>> but that
>> was it.  I just put it away, deciding I'd fix it Maqana .  Maqana 
>> arrived last
>> weekend and I drained the now four year old gas (very yellow!), took the
>> carburetor apart and cleaned the jets, and re-assembled everything.
>> Amazingly, it started up pretty quickly when I was done!  So far, so 
>> good.
>>
>> It runs fairly smoothly with the choke set to "Start" and does a 
>> decent job of
>> power washing.  However, the engine dies as soon as I move it to the 
>> "Run"
>> setting, regardless of how long I let it run and warm up first.  I 
>> can move
>> the choke part way in and it continues running, but it then dies as 
>> soon as I
>> squeeze the washer trigger.
>>
>> Before I start fooling around with the choke settings (the owner's 
>> manual is
>> pretty pitiful, but does indicate that the choke can be adjusted), 
>> can anyone
>> think of another reason for it to run like this?  The choke worked 
>> fine when I
>> last used the washer and it doesn't seem likely to me that bad gas would
>> affect that adjustment.
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Jim
>>
>> _________________________________________________________________
>> Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free.
>> http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222985/direct/01/
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> You are subscribed as bjzwissler at gmail.com
>>
>> Shop-talk mailing list
>>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as cavanadd at verizon.net
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Sat Oct 17 22:09:16 2009
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 00:09:16 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Power Washer engine question
In-Reply-To: <20091018001614007.YNIP3542@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>
References: <COL115-W531A0957D38BDCE7520402CCC30@phx.gbl>
	<20091018001614007.YNIP3542@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <2400a5d40910172109r71535a97pea34f60c01e51bb9@mail.gmail.com>

On Sat, Oct 17, 2009 at 8:16 PM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > It runs fairly smoothly with the choke set to "Start" and
> > does a decent job of
> > power washing.  However, the engine dies as soon as I move it
> > to the "Run"
> > setting, regardless of how long I let it run and warm up
> > first.  I can move
> > the choke part way in and it continues running, but it then
> > dies as soon as I
> > squeeze the washer trigger.
>
> IMO The choke's not the problem; you've still got a plugged jet or passage
> somewhere that isn't passing enough fuel.
> It's possible there was an adjustment that didn't get restored during the
> cleaning process, but I think a plug is more likely.
>

yes.  This is the way to bet.


>
> Modern gasohol seems to "set up" much harder than the old gasoline did; I
> had to literally chip away the deposits in my lawnmower carb.  Ordinary
> carb
> cleaner didn't phase them.
>
> As I recall, you live in california.  You can't get actual carburetor
cleaner in California.
(It's a substantial contributor to smog.)
-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From nick at landform.co.uk  Sun Oct 18 03:47:23 2009
From: nick at landform.co.uk (nick brearley)
Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 10:47:23 +0100
Subject: [Shop-talk] Power Washer engine question
In-Reply-To: <4ADA628C.3000706@verizon.net>
References: <COL115-W531A0957D38BDCE7520402CCC30@phx.gbl>
	<4ADA5BFE.3090206@gmail.com> <4ADA628C.3000706@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <4ADAE42B.80506@landform.co.uk>

David C. wrote:
> What Ben said.  Classic example of a plugged main jet or the fuel 
> passage to the main jet.
>
Has anyone experience of ultrasonic carb cleaners? I have a similar 
problem with a lawn mower engine (Kubota) that was parked for several 
years with the same results. Carb cleaner and soaking in cellulose 
thinners made no difference although it will run on straight carb 
cleaner sprayed into the intake. The carb is a Nikki which is like no 
carb I've seen before. Ultrasonic seems to be the next step but any 
personal experience would be valuable.

Thanks.

Nick Brearley

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Sun Oct 18 07:02:48 2009
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 09:02:48 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Power Washer engine question
In-Reply-To: <4ADAE42B.80506@landform.co.uk>
References: <COL115-W531A0957D38BDCE7520402CCC30@phx.gbl>
	<4ADA5BFE.3090206@gmail.com> <4ADA628C.3000706@verizon.net>
	<4ADAE42B.80506@landform.co.uk>
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20091018085834.01da46a8@cox.net>

At 05:47 AM 10/18/2009, nick brearley wrote:

 >Has anyone experience of ultrasonic carb cleaners?...

No experience with ultrasonic carb cleaners, but I have the same problem with
my Morgan.  The carb gums up something bad.

What I do, is spray it down with spray carb cleaner, then I take a piece of
stranded wire, strip several inches of insulation off, and pull 1, 2, or 3 wire
and cut them off.  Then I use them to try and poke through all the jets and
passages in the carb.  For the larger holes, I twist 2 or 3 wires together
depending on the size of the hole.  As I'm doing this, I'll squirt more carb
cleaner into the area I'm working on.

This has worked even on the hard to get to port for the accelerator pump.
It just takes time.

John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From kennedybc at comcast.net  Sun Oct 18 07:40:39 2009
From: kennedybc at comcast.net (Brian Kennedy)
Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 06:40:39 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Power Washer engine question
In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20091018085834.01da46a8@cox.net>
Message-ID: <C70068E7.4C9D%kennedybc@comcast.net>

I've had this problem with lawnmowers over the years. I removed the carb and
put it in a can of Gunk over night. Always worked. The first time I left an
O ring in and it swelled to a much larger size. Shrunk back down after
awhile but I stopped doing that.
Brian Kennedy



On 10/18/09 6:02 AM, "John T. Blair" <jblair1948 at cox.net> wrote:

> At 05:47 AM 10/18/2009, nick brearley wrote:
> 
>> Has anyone experience of ultrasonic carb cleaners?...
> 
> No experience with ultrasonic carb cleaners, but I have the same problem with
> my Morgan.  The carb gums up something bad.
> 
> What I do, is spray it down with spray carb cleaner, then I take a piece of
> stranded wire, strip several inches of insulation off, and pull 1, 2, or 3
> wire
> and cut them off.  Then I use them to try and poke through all the jets and
> passages in the carb.  For the larger holes, I twist 2 or 3 wires together
> depending on the size of the hole.  As I'm doing this, I'll squirt more carb
> cleaner into the area I'm working on.
> 
> This has worked even on the hard to get to port for the accelerator pump.
> It just takes time.
> 
> John
> 
> John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
> Va. Beach, Va
> Phone:  (757) 495-8229
> 
>            48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
>       75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
>                         65 Rambler Classic
> 
> Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
> Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org
> 
> If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
> If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> You are subscribed as kennedybc at comcast.net
> 
> Shop-talk mailing list
> 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jandkstone99 at msn.com  Sun Oct 18 13:16:46 2009
From: jandkstone99 at msn.com (Jim Stone)
Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 14:16:46 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Power Washer engine question
In-Reply-To: <C70068E7.4C9D%kennedybc@comcast.net>
References: <6.2.5.6.1.20091018085834.01da46a8@cox.net>
Message-ID: <COL115-W1687784FD12570A9D4EA16CCC20@phx.gbl>

I am not sure which jet was the main one, but one of them was plastic, which
makes me uncomfortable trying anything too aggressive for cleaning.  Unless
that was on my lawnmower.  That one was also running badly and I dismantled
and cleaned its carb the same weekend.  Fortunately, with better luck on it.

I'll give everything another shot and report back.  It might take a week or
two though, as I was able to use the power washer with the choke on, so fixing
it isn't a priority at the moment.

Jim

p.s.  I live in Missouri, where carb cleaner is still legal.

> Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 06:40:39 -0700
> From: kennedybc at comcast.net
> To: shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Power Washer engine question
>
> I've had this problem with lawnmowers over the years. I removed the carb
and
> put it in a can of Gunk over night. Always worked. The first time I left an
> O ring in and it swelled to a much larger size. Shrunk back down after
> awhile but I stopped doing that.
> Brian Kennedy
>
>
>
> On 10/18/09 6:02 AM, "John T. Blair" <jblair1948 at cox.net> wrote:
>
> > At 05:47 AM 10/18/2009, nick brearley wrote:
> >
> >> Has anyone experience of ultrasonic carb cleaners?...
> >
> > No experience with ultrasonic carb cleaners, but I have the same problem
with
> > my Morgan.  The carb gums up something bad.
> >
> > What I do, is spray it down with spray carb cleaner, then I take a piece
of
> > stranded wire, strip several inches of insulation off, and pull 1, 2, or
3
> > wire
> > and cut them off.  Then I use them to try and poke through all the jets
and
> > passages in the carb.  For the larger holes, I twist 2 or 3 wires
together
> > depending on the size of the hole.  As I'm doing this, I'll squirt more
carb
> > cleaner into the area I'm working on.
> >
> > This has worked even on the hard to get to port for the accelerator pump.
> > It just takes time.
> >
> > John
> >
> > John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
> > Va. Beach, Va
> > Phone:  (757) 495-8229
> >
> >            48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
> >       75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
> >                         65 Rambler Classic
> >
> > Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
> > Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org
> >
> > If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
> > If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > You are subscribed as kennedybc at comcast.net
> >
> > Shop-talk mailing list
> >
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as jandkstone99 at msn.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
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From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Sun Oct 18 14:04:47 2009
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 16:04:47 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Power Washer engine question
In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20091018085834.01da46a8@cox.net>
References: <COL115-W531A0957D38BDCE7520402CCC30@phx.gbl>
	<4ADA5BFE.3090206@gmail.com> <4ADA628C.3000706@verizon.net>
	<4ADAE42B.80506@landform.co.uk>
	<6.2.5.6.1.20091018085834.01da46a8@cox.net>
Message-ID: <2400a5d40910181304q258a72f3v2764beb1ad2902db@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, Oct 18, 2009 at 9:02 AM, John T. Blair <jblair1948 at cox.net> wrote:

> At 05:47 AM 10/18/2009, nick brearley wrote:
>
> >Has anyone experience of ultrasonic carb cleaners?...
>
> No experience with ultrasonic carb cleaners, but I have the same problem
> with
> my Morgan.  The carb gums up something bad.
>
> What I do, is spray it down with spray carb cleaner, then I take a piece of
> stranded wire, strip several inches of insulation off, and pull 1, 2, or 3
> wire
> and cut them off.  Then I use them to try and poke through all the jets and
> passages in the carb.  For the larger holes, I twist 2 or 3 wires together
> depending on the size of the hole.  As I'm doing this, I'll squirt more
> carb
> cleaner into the area I'm working on.
>
> This has worked even on the hard to get to port for the accelerator pump.
> It just takes time.
>

mechanical cleaning of carbs with wires can ruin them.  It's quite possible
to enlarge them.  (not very likely with a copper wire, but you can scratch
them.) which will change how they behave.  I don't have any experience with
cleaning carbs with ultrasonic baths, but I've had lots of other delicate
bits done, and it works very, very well.

-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From battmain at yahoo.com  Mon Oct 19 00:34:31 2009
From: battmain at yahoo.com (Battmain)
Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 23:34:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Power Washer engine question
In-Reply-To: <COL115-W531A0957D38BDCE7520402CCC30@phx.gbl>
References: <COL115-W531A0957D38BDCE7520402CCC30@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <635480.72626.qm@web57005.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

Assuming you cleaned out all the visible fuel passages with carb
cleaner, Check the valve seat for the fuel float. The rubber swells and
 prevents proper fuel flow. Restricting the fuel flow causes you to 
restrict the air to maintain proper fuel mixture. Cost of parts about $10 
locally. Time to fix, about 10 minutes. Stupid me made a fool of myself 
overanalyzing how the valve seat went in, but it was actually quite 
simple to fix. Nevermind that I was too careful trying not to damage the 
new part. I didn't seat the the part properly and went from barely running 
to not running. After scratching my head for a bit, a little bit of logic and 
some starting fluid pointed to fuel flow again. Once I got that fixed, the 
washer worked fine at full blast again. 

You can look on the Briggs website for the part numbers/diagram and
take it with you to the local shop. It will be cheaper than having it 
shipped. When I went in, they knew exactly what I needed when
I pointed to it. The gasket for the fuel bowl comes in the kit as does
the gasket for the screw on the bottom of the bowl.

Brian
battmain at yahoo.com


----- Original Message ----
From: Jim Stone <jandkstone99 at msn.com>
To: shop-talk at autox.team.net
Sent: Sat, October 17, 2009 7:50:36 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] Power Washer engine question

I have a Power Washer with a 6.5 HP Briggs and Stratton engine.  I bought it
about 7 years ago from Home Depot an I don't use it all that often. About 4
years ago I forgot to add Stabil to the gas before storing it away.  It was a
year (or two) before I tried to use it again and, as you can imagine, it
wouldn't start.  I could get it to run briefly with starting fluid, but that
was it.  I just put it away, deciding I'd fix it Maqana .  Maqana arrived last
weekend and I drained the now four year old gas (very yellow!), took the
carburetor apart and cleaned the jets, and re-assembled everything.
Amazingly, it started up pretty quickly when I was done!  So far, so good.

It runs fairly smoothly with the choke set to "Start" and does a decent job of
power washing.  However, the engine dies as soon as I move it to the "Run"
setting, regardless of how long I let it run and warm up first.  I can move
the choke part way in and it continues running, but it then dies as soon as I
squeeze the washer trigger.

Before I start fooling around with the choke settings (the owner's manual is
pretty pitiful, but does indicate that the choke can be adjusted), can anyone
think of another reason for it to run like this?  The choke worked fine when I
last used the washer and it doesn't seem likely to me that bad gas would
affect that adjustment.

Thanks.

Jim

_________________________________________________________________
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222985/direct/01/
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From eltonclark at gmail.com  Mon Oct 19 11:44:37 2009
From: eltonclark at gmail.com (Elton E. (Tony) Clark)
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 12:44:37 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Power Washer engine question
In-Reply-To: <4ADAE42B.80506@landform.co.uk>
References: <COL115-W531A0957D38BDCE7520402CCC30@phx.gbl>
	<4ADA5BFE.3090206@gmail.com> <4ADA628C.3000706@verizon.net>
	<4ADAE42B.80506@landform.co.uk>
Message-ID: <ea2385360910191044m44e4a77fmb27d6eaaf1b2a8d0@mail.gmail.com>

*I have a ultrasonic unit originally made for watchmakers and jewelers.  The
person I got it from used common detergents like "Simple Green" so that's
what I use.  It does a good job on carburetors and other gum up problems but
I wish I knew more about which solutions and  which frenquencies are best.*
*Tony in Texas*

On Sun, Oct 18, 2009 at 4:47 AM, nick brearley <nick at landform.co.uk> wrote:

> David C. wrote:
>
>> What Ben said.  Classic example of a plugged main jet or the fuel passage
>> to the main jet.
>>
>> Has anyone experience of ultrasonic carb cleaners? I have a similar
> problem with a lawn mower engine (Kubota) that was parked for several years
> with the same results. Carb cleaner and soaking in cellulose thinners made
> no difference although it will run on straight carb cleaner sprayed into the
> intake. The carb is a Nikki which is like no carb I've seen before.
> Ultrasonic seems to be the next step but any personal experience would be
> valuable.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Nick Brearley
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as eltonclark at gmail.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From parkanzky at gmail.com  Mon Oct 19 12:17:34 2009
From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky)
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 14:17:34 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Power Washer engine question
In-Reply-To: <ea2385360910191044m44e4a77fmb27d6eaaf1b2a8d0@mail.gmail.com>
References: <COL115-W531A0957D38BDCE7520402CCC30@phx.gbl>
	<4ADA5BFE.3090206@gmail.com> <4ADA628C.3000706@verizon.net>
	<4ADAE42B.80506@landform.co.uk>
	<ea2385360910191044m44e4a77fmb27d6eaaf1b2a8d0@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <bdde53220910191117l64df6892wf8c7cafe80486afb@mail.gmail.com>

We use ultrasonic baths in the laboratory to clean delicate equipment
with very small nozzles and apertures.  We also use them to dissolve
barely soluble solids to make standard solutions.  I've always wanted
one for home and I think that it would be great for all kinds of
cleaning, especially something like a carb.  I just can't justify the
cost of one that I think would be big enough.

Simple Green seems to me like a good choice for a detergent to start
with.  You can also sonicate in organic solvents and that might work
better with a gummed up carb.  To use solvents sparingly, you can fill
the bath with water and then put a glass container just big enough to
hold what you are cleaning (like a jet or other small bit) full of the
solvent of choice in the bath.  You'll have to find a way to anchor it
in the bath because it will be uncomfortable to hold onto for more
than a couple of seconds.  For something as big as a carb though,
you'll likely be better off just filling the bath unless the bath you
have is huge.

Also, if your bath doesn't have a heater I would recommend using hot
water/solvent.  It makes a huge difference.

-Paul

On Mon, Oct 19, 2009 at 1:44 PM, Elton E. (Tony) Clark
<eltonclark at gmail.com> wrote:
> *I have a ultrasonic unit originally made for watchmakers and jewelers.
 The
> person I got it from used common detergents like "Simple Green" so that's
> what I use.  It does a good job on carburetors and other gum up problems
but
> I wish I knew more about which solutions and  which frenquencies are best.*
> *Tony in Texas*
>
> On Sun, Oct 18, 2009 at 4:47 AM, nick brearley <nick at landform.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> David C. wrote:
>>
>>> What Ben said.  Classic example of a plugged main jet or the fuel passage
>>> to the main jet.
>>>
>>> Has anyone experience of ultrasonic carb cleaners? I have a similar
>> problem with a lawn mower engine (Kubota) that was parked for several
years
>> with the same results. Carb cleaner and soaking in cellulose thinners made
>> no difference although it will run on straight carb cleaner sprayed into
the
>> intake. The carb is a Nikki which is like no carb I've seen before.
>> Ultrasonic seems to be the next step but any personal experience would be
>> valuable.
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Nick Brearley

From nick at landform.co.uk  Mon Oct 19 12:25:21 2009
From: nick at landform.co.uk (nick brearley)
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 19:25:21 +0100
Subject: [Shop-talk] Power Washer engine question
In-Reply-To: <ea2385360910191044m44e4a77fmb27d6eaaf1b2a8d0@mail.gmail.com>
References: <COL115-W531A0957D38BDCE7520402CCC30@phx.gbl>	
	<4ADA5BFE.3090206@gmail.com> <4ADA628C.3000706@verizon.net>	
	<4ADAE42B.80506@landform.co.uk>
	<ea2385360910191044m44e4a77fmb27d6eaaf1b2a8d0@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4ADCAF11.3030307@landform.co.uk>

Elton E. (Tony) Clark wrote:
> *I have a ultrasonic unit originally made for watchmakers and 
> jewelers.  The person I got it from used common detergents like 
> "Simple Green" so that's what I use.  It does a good job on 
> carburetors and other gum up problems but I wish I knew more about 
> which solutions and  which frenquencies are best.*
Thanks Tony. I'd heard that watchmenders are a likely source, there's 
also someone offering the service specifically for carbs on Ebay. May 
well give it a try.

Nick Brearley

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Oct 19 12:46:25 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 18:46:25 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Power Washer engine question
In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20091018085834.01da46a8@cox.net>
Message-ID: <1179203192.5849301255977985829.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- "John T. Blair" <jblair1948 at cox.net> wrote:

> From: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948 at cox.net>
> To: shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Sent: Sunday, October 18, 2009 8:02:48 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Power Washer engine question
>
> At 05:47 AM 10/18/2009, nick brearley wrote:
> 
>  >Has anyone experience of ultrasonic carb cleaners?...
> 
> No experience with ultrasonic carb cleaners, but I have the same
> problem with
> my Morgan.  The carb gums up something bad.

Use only non-oxygenated fuel.  There a few gasoline stations in my town which sell it for "Antique cars and Lawnmowers".  Sorry, still no lead.

Use Sta-Bil in the fuel.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

From clmautz at gmail.com  Wed Oct 21 08:50:36 2009
From: clmautz at gmail.com (Chip Mautz)
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 10:50:36 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] air compressor question
In-Reply-To: <802607.27803.qm@web601.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910080219300.8160@thunder.banklogic.net> 
	<802607.27803.qm@web601.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5f44dd4f0910210750n308911deqefc88745d0f3a2c3@mail.gmail.com>

FWIW, a few years ago I build a fence, so used that as a reason to buy
the HF compressor listed below:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95386

With it I run air tools, paint guns, hand-held sandblaster type guns,
etc.   Purely hobbyist stuff.  Has dual gauges, I added a dryer and
quick disconnect fittings.  Bought a combo air tool kit, probaby have
less than $150 in the whole thing.  I paid $99 for the compressor a
few years ago, and it's still going strong.  Oil engine, so I guess it
could be rebuilt.

I take that back, I do have $150 in a very nice finish nail gun, that
I use for in-house projects.  I want to get a garage system so I have
fittings everywhere and can plug up at the job site and not have to
run hoses...

I may have to see if it's tunable, as it's 115cfm peak by those specs
listed above...

Chip in GA

From eric at megageek.com  Thu Oct 22 15:30:44 2009
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 17:30:44 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Ladybugs (shop related)
Message-ID: <OFC4CBD784.DFA8FB33-ON85257657.00760115-85257657.0077B9E6@mail.megageek.com>

OK, so I just got back from New Orleans and I found that ladybugs moved 
into my brand new building.  Thousands of them.

It's also "illegal" to kill them.  (but I don't mind if I have to)  But 
this means that I can't find poisons or such for them.

So, what's the best way to get rid of these pests?

Moose
b
Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b
 Ralph 
Waldo Emerson

From eric at megageek.com  Thu Oct 22 15:32:15 2009
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 17:32:15 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] conductive rubber
Message-ID: <OF39CA9B64.1C48EE21-ON85257657.00762627-85257657.0077DD5B@mail.megageek.com>

OK, so I have a remote control that gets used alot.  The main buttons 
aren't registering any more.

Is there a way to "clean" or "resurface" the button's conductive rubber 
back side? 

What would happen if I just put a piece of metal there?

TIA!

Moose
b
Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b
 Ralph 
Waldo Emerson

From bolin at mwt.net  Thu Oct 22 16:37:59 2009
From: bolin at mwt.net (Bob Jeffers)
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 17:37:59 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Ladybugs (shop related)
In-Reply-To: <OFC4CBD784.DFA8FB33-ON85257657.00760115-85257657.0077B9E6@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OFC4CBD784.DFA8FB33-ON85257657.00760115-85257657.0077B9E6@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <4AFB550D0EE9497FA5A4490B35B6C7D1@BobPC>

This works for me but I spray before they come.

http://www.afpmb.org/pubs/standardlists/labels/6840-01-431-3357_label.pdf



----- Original Message ----- 
From: <eric at megageek.com>
To: <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2009 4:30 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] Ladybugs (shop related)


> OK, so I just got back from New Orleans and I found that ladybugs moved
> into my brand new building.  Thousands of them.
>
> It's also "illegal" to kill them.  (but I don't mind if I have to)  But
> this means that I can't find poisons or such for them.
>
> So, what's the best way to get rid of these pests?
>
> Moose
> b
Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b
 Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as bolin at mwt.net
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Oct 22 16:40:36 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 15:40:36 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] conductive rubber
In-Reply-To: <OF39CA9B64.1C48EE21-ON85257657.00762627-85257657.0077DD5B@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <20091022224036191.KGCS17264@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>

> Is there a way to "clean" or "resurface" the button's 
> conductive rubber back side? 

I tried using conductive paint once.  Worked well for about a week, then the
paint wore out.  So I just bought a 'universal' remote instead.

> What would happen if I just put a piece of metal there?

Should work, if you can get it to touch both traces at once.  But I'd guess
the traces would wear out next.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Oct 22 16:45:15 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 15:45:15 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Ladybugs (shop related)
In-Reply-To: <OFC4CBD784.DFA8FB33-ON85257657.00760115-85257657.0077B9E6@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <20091022224515158.SSUB12118@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> So, what's the best way to get rid of these pests?

Never tried it, but what if you suck them up with a shop vac, then release
them outdoors?

They are considered beneficial and harmless (although some species can
bite), so I'd try not to kill any more than necessary.

Randall

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Thu Oct 22 17:42:15 2009
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 18:42:15 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Ladybugs (shop related)
In-Reply-To: <OFC4CBD784.DFA8FB33-ON85257657.00760115-85257657.0077B9E6@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OFC4CBD784.DFA8FB33-ON85257657.00760115-85257657.0077B9E6@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W21ADCCAEA0D08F9EDBDD9AE1BE0@phx.gbl>

Gentlemen bugs?
You will have to keep the guys outside or else the problem might get MUCH
worse!

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA

'63 TR3B TCF587L

That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!



> To: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net
> From: eric at megageek.com
> Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 17:30:44 -0400
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Ladybugs (shop related)
>
> OK, so I just got back from New Orleans and I found that ladybugs moved
> into my brand new building. Thousands of them.
>
> It's also "illegal" to kill them. (but I don't mind if I have to) But
> this means that I can't find poisons or such for them.
>
> So, what's the best way to get rid of these pests?
>
> Moose
> bBe as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jdinnis at gmail.com  Thu Oct 22 18:24:24 2009
From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis)
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 19:24:24 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] conductive rubber
In-Reply-To: <20091022224036191.KGCS17264@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
References: <OF39CA9B64.1C48EE21-ON85257657.00762627-85257657.0077DD5B@mail.megageek.com>
	<20091022224036191.KGCS17264@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <abb8688a0910221724m72c88188m6d2297b1f8b43597@mail.gmail.com>

I bought a keypad fix kit from American Science and surplus to fix one
of these.  It was cheap and so far seems to be holding up.  It has
only been a few weeks, but so far, so good!

On Thu, Oct 22, 2009 at 5:40 PM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
>> Is there a way to "clean" or "resurface" the button's
>> conductive rubber back side?
>
> I tried using conductive paint once.  Worked well for about a week, then
the
> paint wore out.  So I just bought a 'universal' remote instead.
>
>> What would happen if I just put a piece of metal there?
>
> Should work, if you can get it to touch both traces at once.  But I'd guess
> the traces would wear out next.
>
> Randall

--
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================

From dhlocker at comcast.net  Thu Oct 22 18:34:04 2009
From: dhlocker at comcast.net (Donald H Locker)
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 00:34:04 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Ladybugs (shop related)
In-Reply-To: <OFC4CBD784.DFA8FB33-ON85257657.00760115-85257657.0077B9E6@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <1383541433.351711256258044216.JavaMail.root@sz0052a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

vacuum cleaner.  Environmentally benign and collects the non-carcasses into one handy location.

Donald.
----- Original Message -----
From: eric at megageek.com
To: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2009 5:30:44 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: [Shop-talk] Ladybugs (shop related)

OK, so I just got back from New Orleans and I found that ladybugs moved 
into my brand new building.  Thousands of them.

It's also "illegal" to kill them.  (but I don't mind if I have to)  But 
this means that I can't find poisons or such for them.

So, what's the best way to get rid of these pests?

Moose
bBe as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b Ralph 
Waldo Emerson

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Thu Oct 22 20:19:04 2009
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 21:19:04 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] conductive rubber
References: <OF39CA9B64.1C48EE21-ON85257657.00762627-85257657.0077DD5B@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <DECA95C342854F1B895580CB5D7A1E99@KARL>

Been cleaning the conductive rubber pads on our 20+ year old Zenith remotes 
with rubbing alcohol every 6 months or so for years.


> OK, so I have a remote control that gets used alot.  The main buttons
> aren't registering any more.
>
> Is there a way to "clean" or "resurface" the button's conductive rubber
> back side?
>
> What would happen if I just put a piece of metal there?
>
> TIA!

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Thu Oct 22 20:23:47 2009
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 21:23:47 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Ladybugs (shop related)
References: <OFC4CBD784.DFA8FB33-ON85257657.00760115-85257657.0077B9E6@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <1C1AE627A0D341AC853392B85F194D9F@KARL>

Are they real red ladybugs, or the damn orange Chinese ones ?  I'd be amazed 
(and dismayed) if the orange ones are protected, since they multiply 
prolifically and kill the beneficial red ones.

We've been inundated with the orange ones for 6-7 years now in the Midwest. 
They bite sometimes and they stink when you smash them.  Some genius thought 
it was a great idea to introduce them, and now they're taken over.

In the winter, the inside of the roof sheathing (spaced boards, allowing 
some openings to the outside) near the eaves in our garage attic are coated 
with tens of thousands of them - a few thick.



> OK, so I just got back from New Orleans and I found that ladybugs moved
> into my brand new building.  Thousands of them.
>
> It's also "illegal" to kill them.  (but I don't mind if I have to)  But
> this means that I can't find poisons or such for them.
>
> So, what's the best way to get rid of these pests?

From pj_thomas at comcast.net  Thu Oct 22 21:03:23 2009
From: pj_thomas at comcast.net (Peter J. Thomas)
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 23:03:23 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] conductive rubber
In-Reply-To: <OF39CA9B64.1C48EE21-ON85257657.00762627-85257657.0077DD5B@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF39CA9B64.1C48EE21-ON85257657.00762627-85257657.0077DD5B@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <4AE11CFB.8010403@comcast.net>

eric at megageek.com wrote:
> OK, so I have a remote control that gets used alot.  The main buttons 
> aren't registering any more.
>
> Is there a way to "clean" or "resurface" the button's conductive rubber 
> back side? 
>   
I clean remotes and other keypads with just a dry paper towel and a 
little knuckle grease.  Unless it was immersed in something sticky, this 
is enough.  Also, I've found the contacts, not the pads, are what need 
cleaning; they oxidize.  A paper towel is rough enough clean them. If 
its really bad, use a pencil eraser followed with the paper towel.  
Pencil erasers have some mind grid embedded in them.  Electrical 
engineers use an eraser to clean non-gold plated contacts, the eraser 
will completely remove the gold and even copper plating. 
> What would happen if I just put a piece of metal there?
>   
Don't know, just guessing, but you might get bounces (multiple button hits).

Peter Thomas
> TIA!
>
> Moose
> b
Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b
 Ralph 
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as pj_thomas at comcast.net
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Thu Oct 22 21:50:15 2009
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 23:50:15 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] conductive rubber
In-Reply-To: <4AE11CFB.8010403@comcast.net>
References: <OF39CA9B64.1C48EE21-ON85257657.00762627-85257657.0077DD5B@mail.megageek.com>
	<4AE11CFB.8010403@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <2400a5d40910222050k6632ca4ep4fe629963a736d09@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, Oct 22, 2009 at 11:03 PM, Peter J. Thomas <pj_thomas at comcast.net>wrote:

> eric at megageek.com wrote:  Electrical engineers use an eraser to clean
> non-gold plated contacts, the eraser will completely remove the gold and
> even copper plating.
>

DEC used to fire FEs that used a pencil eraser to do this.  It's better than
nothing, but a proper cleaner is much better, faster, more reliable, and
generally more likely to work.




>  What would happen if I just put a piece of metal there?
>>
>>
> Don't know, just guessing, but you might get bounces (multiple button
> hits).
>
> Peter Thomas
>
>> TIA!
>>
>> Moose
>> b Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
>> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b  Ralph
>> Waldo Emerson
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> You are subscribed as pj_thomas at comcast.net
>>
>> Shop-talk mailing list
>>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as dmscheidt at gmail.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From mark at bradakis.com  Fri Oct 23 00:44:38 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 00:44:38 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Ladybugs (shop related)
In-Reply-To: <20091022224515158.SSUB12118@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
References: <20091022224515158.SSUB12118@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <4AE150D6.1070702@bradakis.com>

Are there any gardening clubs in your area?  Ladybugs, despite
their genteel name, are voracious, ruthless predators and sought
after by organic gardeners as natural pest control to get rid of
various types of small and harmful garden insects.  You might
find some folks who would love to scoop them up and take
them away.

mjb.

From opposumking at verizon.net  Fri Oct 23 04:19:45 2009
From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan)
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 06:19:45 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Ladybugs (shop related)
References: <OFC4CBD784.DFA8FB33-ON85257657.00760115-85257657.0077B9E6@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <FA91A0C8C075457F80858C0DAC4463CD@mde.state.md.us>

Once they are in, it's too late.  Doubly so because they leave pheromone 
tracers and will return next year.

Exclusion is key.  But in most homes, that's all but impossible.  They are 
small, and just crawl in through the gaps under the siding, under the 
shingles, etc.

Various pyrethrins sprayed on the outside walls can work.  You need quick 
acting ones, as they land and go in.  They don't spend a whole lot of time 
crawling around.






----- Original Message ----- 
From: <eric at megageek.com>
To: <shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2009 5:30 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] Ladybugs (shop related)


> OK, so I just got back from New Orleans and I found that ladybugs moved
> into my brand new building.  Thousands of them.
>
> It's also "illegal" to kill them.  (but I don't mind if I have to)  But
> this means that I can't find poisons or such for them.
>
> So, what's the best way to get rid of these pests?
>
> Moose
> b
Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b
 Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as opposumking at verizon.net
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From eric at megageek.com  Fri Oct 23 08:15:57 2009
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 10:15:57 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] A tricky one (sort shop related)
Message-ID: <OFEB590AD0.943DB4C8-ON85257658.004E5D67-85257658.004E5D6C@mail.megageek.com>

OK, I travel ALOT for a living. One of the things I HATE to do is remvoe my
belt when I go through a metal detector.  For years I have been searching
for a non-metal belt buckle, but I can't find one.

Does anyone here know of any link for one?  Or better yet, how I could make
something like that?  Thanks in advance.

(BTW, I just got back from New Orleans and will be back there in a week or
so.  Any listers here in that area?)



Moose
b
Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b
 Ralph
Waldo Emerson

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Fri Oct 23 08:55:14 2009
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 10:55:14 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] A tricky one (sort shop related)
In-Reply-To: <OFEB590AD0.943DB4C8-ON85257658.004E5D67-85257658.004E5D6C@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OFEB590AD0.943DB4C8-ON85257658.004E5D67-85257658.004E5D6C@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <2400a5d40910230755q1670a181x3e55f17403408f61@mail.gmail.com>

On Fri, Oct 23, 2009 at 10:15 AM, <eric at megageek.com> wrote:

> OK, I travel ALOT for a living. One of the things I HATE to do is remvoe my
> belt when I go through a metal detector.  For years I have been searching
> for a non-metal belt buckle, but I can't find one.
>
> Does anyone here know of any link for one?  Or better yet, how I could make
> something like that?  Thanks in advance.
> \
>

http://www.beepfreeproducts.com/index.html



-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Oct 23 09:07:04 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 15:07:04 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Shop-talk] A tricky one (sort shop related)
In-Reply-To: <OFEB590AD0.943DB4C8-ON85257658.004E5D67-85257658.004E5D6C@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <1470413071.485691256310424281.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Bingo: 

http://suspenderstore.com/aifrsube.html?gclid=CN2ujOq4050CFRESawod9HZFrg 


Lots of others, too; just Google 'non-metallic belt buckles.' 


bs 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 



OK, I travel ALOT for a living. One of the things I HATE to do is remvoe my 
belt when I go through a metal detector. For years I have been searching 
for a non-metal belt buckle, but I can't find one. 

Does anyone here know of any link for one? Or better yet, how I could make 
something like that? Thanks in advance. 

(BTW, I just got back from New Orleans and will be back there in a week or 
so. Any listers here in that area?) 



Moose 
bBe as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Oct 23 09:08:06 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 15:08:06 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Shop-talk] A tricky one (sort shop related)
In-Reply-To: <OFEB590AD0.943DB4C8-ON85257658.004E5D67-85257658.004E5D6C@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <1039264974.486341256310486858.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Here's another: 

http://www.beepfreeproducts.com/belts1.html 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

- 

OK, I travel ALOT for a living. One of the things I HATE to do is remvoe my 
belt when I go through a metal detector. For years I have been searching 
for a non-metal belt buckle, but I can't find one. 

Does anyone here know of any link for one? Or better yet, how I could make 
something like that? Thanks in advance. 

(BTW, I just got back from New Orleans and will be back there in a week or 
so. Any listers here in that area?) 



Moose 
bBe as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Fri Oct 23 09:52:34 2009
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 10:52:34 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] A tricky one (sort shop related)
In-Reply-To: <1039264974.486341256310486858.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <OFEB590AD0.943DB4C8-ON85257658.004E5D67-85257658.004E5D6C@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W2540FE1DDBB9539C2F2047E1BD0@phx.gbl>

You could go old school.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Max_Baer,_Jr.




Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!




> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 15:08:06 +0000
> From: bspidell at comcast.net
> To: eric at megageek.com
> CC: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] A tricky one (sort shop related)
>
> Here's another:
>
> http://www.beepfreeproducts.com/belts1.html
>
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
> -
>
> OK, I travel ALOT for a living. One of the things I HATE to do is remvoe my
> belt when I go through a metal detector. For years I have been searching
> for a non-metal belt buckle, but I can't find one.
>
> Does anyone here know of any link for one? Or better yet, how I could make
> something like that? Thanks in advance.
>
> (BTW, I just got back from New Orleans and will be back there in a week or
> so. Any listers here in that area?)
>
>
>
> Moose
> bBe as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From gsteve at hammatt.com  Fri Oct 23 09:59:15 2009
From: gsteve at hammatt.com (Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA)
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 08:59:15 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] A tricky one (sort shop related)
In-Reply-To: <2400a5d40910230755q1670a181x3e55f17403408f61@mail.gmail.com>
References: <OFEB590AD0.943DB4C8-ON85257658.004E5D67-85257658.004E5D6C@mail.megageek.com>
	<2400a5d40910230755q1670a181x3e55f17403408f61@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <579938CA842842B1B247A9772F1E09FB@DesktopPC>

Until recently I traveled 50 flights a year.
Never took my belt off.  I don't wear one of
the large belt buckles, just a simple metal
unit.  It has never been a problem.  Maybe
your buckles are a large style?

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Scheidt" <dmscheidt at gmail.com>
To: <eric at megageek.com>
Cc: <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 23, 2009 7:55 AM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] A tricky one (sort shop related)


> On Fri, Oct 23, 2009 at 10:15 AM, <eric at megageek.com> wrote:
>
>> OK, I travel ALOT for a living. One of the things I HATE to do is 
>> remvoe my
>> belt when I go through a metal detector.  For years I have been 
>> searching
>> for a non-metal belt buckle, but I can't find one.
>>
>> Does anyone here know of any link for one?  Or better yet, how I 
>> could make
>> something like that?  Thanks in advance.
>> \
>>
>
> http://www.beepfreeproducts.com/index.html
>
>
>
> -- 
> David Scheidt
> dmscheidt at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as gsteve at hammatt.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.423 / Virus Database: 270.14.26/2451 - Release Date: 
10/22/09 08:51:00

From parkanzky at gmail.com  Fri Oct 23 11:05:16 2009
From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky)
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 13:05:16 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] A tricky one (sort shop related)
In-Reply-To: <579938CA842842B1B247A9772F1E09FB@DesktopPC>
References: <OFEB590AD0.943DB4C8-ON85257658.004E5D67-85257658.004E5D6C@mail.megageek.com>
	<2400a5d40910230755q1670a181x3e55f17403408f61@mail.gmail.com>
	<579938CA842842B1B247A9772F1E09FB@DesktopPC>
Message-ID: <bdde53220910231005w13b1e7e3j8bdbf6a4c7aac01d@mail.gmail.com>

+1  I have never travelled that frequently, but the only time I've
ever had to take my belt off was immediately after 9/11, when they'd
ratcheted security up to '11.'  I'm flying out of a major airport
Sunday morning and I am fairly certain that I won't have to remove my
belt.

-Paul

On Fri, Oct 23, 2009 at 11:59 AM, Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA
<gsteve at hammatt.com> wrote:
> Until recently I traveled 50 flights a year.
> Never took my belt off.  I don't wear one of
> the large belt buckles, just a simple metal
> unit.  It has never been a problem.  Maybe
> your buckles are a large style?
>
> Steve Hammatt
> Mount Vernon WA USA
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Scheidt" <dmscheidt at gmail.com>
> To: <eric at megageek.com>
> Cc: <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, October 23, 2009 7:55 AM
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] A tricky one (sort shop related)
>
>
>> On Fri, Oct 23, 2009 at 10:15 AM, <eric at megageek.com> wrote:
>>
>>> OK, I travel ALOT for a living. One of the things I HATE to do is remvoe
>>> my
>>> belt when I go through a metal detector.  For years I have been searching
>>> for a non-metal belt buckle, but I can't find one.
>>>
>>> Does anyone here know of any link for one?  Or better yet, how I could
>>> make
>>> something like that?  Thanks in advance.
>>> \
>>>
>>
>> http://www.beepfreeproducts.com/index.html
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> David Scheidt
>> dmscheidt at gmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> You are subscribed as gsteve at hammatt.com
>>
>> Shop-talk mailing list
>>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>
>
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 8.5.423 / Virus Database: 270.14.26/2451 - Release Date: 10/22/09
> 08:51:00
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as parkanzky at gmail.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rs1121 at earthlink.net  Fri Oct 23 11:16:42 2009
From: rs1121 at earthlink.net (Ron Schmittou)
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 12:16:42 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] A tricky one (sort shop related)
In-Reply-To: <bdde53220910231005w13b1e7e3j8bdbf6a4c7aac01d@mail.gmail.com>
References: <OFEB590AD0.943DB4C8-ON85257658.004E5D67-85257658.004E5D6C@mail.megageek.com>
	<2400a5d40910230755q1670a181x3e55f17403408f61@mail.gmail.com>
	<579938CA842842B1B247A9772F1E09FB@DesktopPC>
	<bdde53220910231005w13b1e7e3j8bdbf6a4c7aac01d@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003801ca5404$97576550$c6062ff0$@net>

Belts aren't an issue for me - one time they made me remove my pants! That
was an issue!


Thanks

Ron Schmittou
Ron_S at agps.us

Office (972) 359-1787                          
Cell (214) 862-1871                           

From eric at megageek.com  Fri Oct 23 11:10:21 2009
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 13:10:21 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Ladybugs (shop related)
Message-ID: <OFEA568CB5.979DA9DE-ON85257658.005E5532-85257658.005E5537@mail.megageek.com>

Yes, I have the orange, nuisance ones.  The local exterminator stated that
they are still "protected" and they can't expressly kill them.  But they
can treat for "winged insects,"  but their guarantees don't cover them (as
they are protected.)


Moose
b
Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b
 Ralph
Waldo Emerson



-----"Karl Vacek" <kvacek at ameritech.net> wrote: -----


To: <shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net>, <eric at megageek.com>
From: "Karl Vacek" <kvacek at ameritech.net>
Date: 10/22/2009 22:23
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Ladybugs (shop related)


Are they real red ladybugs, or the damn orange Chinese ones ?  I'd be
amazed
(and dismayed) if the orange ones are protected, since they multiply
prolifically and kill the beneficial red ones.

We've been inundated with the orange ones for 6-7 years now in the Midwest.
They bite sometimes and they stink when you smash them.  Some genius
thought
it was a great idea to introduce them, and now they're taken over.

In the winter, the inside of the roof sheathing (spaced boards, allowing
some openings to the outside) near the eaves in our garage attic are coated
with tens of thousands of them - a few thick.



> OK, so I just got back from New Orleans and I found that ladybugs moved
> into my brand new building.  Thousands of them.
>
> It's also "illegal" to kill them.  (but I don't mind if I have to)  But
> this means that I can't find poisons or such for them.
>
> So, what's the best way to get rid of these pests?

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Oct 23 11:28:37 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 10:28:37 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] A tricky one (sort shop related)
In-Reply-To: <bdde53220910231005w13b1e7e3j8bdbf6a4c7aac01d@mail.gmail.com>
References: <OFEB590AD0.943DB4C8-ON85257658.004E5D67-85257658.004E5D6C@mail.megageek.com><2400a5d40910230755q1670a181x3e55f17403408f61@mail.gmail.com><579938CA842842B1B247A9772F1E09FB@DesktopPC>
	<bdde53220910231005w13b1e7e3j8bdbf6a4c7aac01d@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <28C57036AEE24B8C911CD4795B9C8415@jdnet.deere.com>

> I'm flying out of a 
> major airport Sunday morning and I am fairly certain that I 
> won't have to remove my belt.

Seems to vary a good deal.  I only fly a few times per year, and I've had to
remove my belt probably 50% of the time.

But come to think of it, there is a small amount of metal in my Levi's
(buttons & rivets) so maybe that has something to do with it.

-- Randall  

From rs1121 at earthlink.net  Fri Oct 23 11:32:32 2009
From: rs1121 at earthlink.net (Ron Schmittou)
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 12:32:32 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Selling my old Birkin
In-Reply-To: <003801ca5404$97576550$c6062ff0$@net>
References: <OFEB590AD0.943DB4C8-ON85257658.004E5D67-85257658.004E5D6C@mail.megageek.com>
	<2400a5d40910230755q1670a181x3e55f17403408f61@mail.gmail.com>
	<579938CA842842B1B247A9772F1E09FB@DesktopPC>
	<bdde53220910231005w13b1e7e3j8bdbf6a4c7aac01d@mail.gmail.com>
	<003801ca5404$97576550$c6062ff0$@net>
Message-ID: <005201ca5406$cdd4e920$697ebb60$@net>

Not directly shop related - But it sure looks good in one!  Beside I know
there are a lot of petrol heads here:

In prepping to get the new full blown racing Birkin in - I am selling my
older one - If interested please look at Dick Brinks website
"http://www.texasmotorworks7.com"  it is the yellow one listed as 1967
Birkin - it is set up as an original lotus 7 - including the crazy emergency
brake in the passenger foot well.  Lots of good pics on the site - I am
negotiable on the price listed.


Thanks

Ron Schmittou
Ron_S at agps.us

Office (972) 359-1787                          
Cell (214) 862-1871                           

From stuart.a.galt at boeing.com  Fri Oct 23 11:33:22 2009
From: stuart.a.galt at boeing.com (Galt, Stuart A)
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 10:33:22 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] A tricky one (sort shop related)
In-Reply-To: <OFEB590AD0.943DB4C8-ON85257658.004E5D67-85257658.004E5D6C@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OFEB590AD0.943DB4C8-ON85257658.004E5D67-85257658.004E5D6C@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <047865C6289DF046BF2572F1D509E97A2A162B7332@XCH-NW-14V.nw.nos.boeing.com>

Depending on your dress code
http://store.thewilderness.com/product_info.php?cPath=43&products_id=374

or other belts by these guys might work.  I go through metal detectors all
the time with this belt.

Stuart


> -----Original Message-----
> From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> eric at megageek.com
> Sent: Friday, October 23, 2009 7:16 AM
> To: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net
> Subject: [Shop-talk] A tricky one (sort shop related)
>
> OK, I travel ALOT for a living. One of the things I HATE to
> do is remvoe my belt when I go through a metal detector.  For
> years I have been searching for a non-metal belt buckle, but
> I can't find one.
>
> Does anyone here know of any link for one?  Or better yet,
> how I could make something like that?  Thanks in advance.
>
> (BTW, I just got back from New Orleans and will be back there
> in a week or so.  Any listers here in that area?)
>
>
>
> Moose
> bBe as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights
> as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of
> your territory.b Ralph Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as stuart.a.galt at boeing.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From eric at megageek.com  Fri Oct 23 11:57:15 2009
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 13:57:15 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] A tricky one (sort shop related)
Message-ID: <OFB305589A.087FB89C-ON85257658.0062A01F-85257658.0062A024@mail.megageek.com>

Thanks Roland (and everyone else.)

I was really wanting to make a project out of this, and this was the idea I
needed!

(Why buy, when I can waste hours making it!)  8>)



Moose
b
Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b
 Ralph
Waldo Emerson



-----Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net> wrote: -----


To: eric at megageek.com
From: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
Date: 10/23/2009 11:14
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] A tricky one (sort shop related)

have a harness guy or good shoemaker make you a belt using a black
plastic clip-together like are used on lots of backpacks, dog collars,
etc.  You can pick leather or any color of webbing :-)

-Roland

On Fri, 23 Oct 2009 10:15:57 -0400, you wrote:

::OK, I travel ALOT for a living. One of the things I HATE to do is remvoe
my
::belt when I go through a metal detector.  For years I have been searching
::for a non-metal belt buckle, but I can't find one.
::
::Does anyone here know of any link for one?  Or better yet, how I could
make
::something like that?  Thanks in advance.
::
::(BTW, I just got back from New Orleans and will be back there in a week
or
::so.  Any listers here in that area?)
::
::
::
::Moose
::b
Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
::being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b
 Ralph
::Waldo Emerson

From eric at megageek.com  Fri Oct 23 12:03:56 2009
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 14:03:56 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] A tricky one (sort shop related)
Message-ID: <OF247DC0F2.D2C3E0C9-ON85257658.00633CF3-85257658.00633CFA@mail.megageek.com>

Great, I can see my tryign to explain to the TSA drone why I was bringing a
5' rope onto a plane.  (and CNN will report that a "Terrorist was arrested
today as they tried to smuggle a noose onto a plane!"



Moose
b
Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b
 Ralph
Waldo Emerson



-----shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net wrote: -----


To: shop-talk List <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
From: Rich White <rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com>
Sent by: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: 10/23/2009 11:52
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] A tricky one (sort shop related)

You could go old school.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Max_Baer,_Jr.




Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!




> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 15:08:06 +0000
> From: bspidell at comcast.net
> To: eric at megageek.com
> CC: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] A tricky one (sort shop related)
>
> Here's another:
>
> http://www.beepfreeproducts.com/belts1.html
>
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
> -
>
> OK, I travel ALOT for a living. One of the things I HATE to do is remvoe
my
> belt when I go through a metal detector. For years I have been searching
> for a non-metal belt buckle, but I can't find one.
>
> Does anyone here know of any link for one? Or better yet, how I could
make
> something like that? Thanks in advance.
>
> (BTW, I just got back from New Orleans and will be back there in a week
or
> so. Any listers here in that area?)
>
>
>
> Moose
> bBe as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

You are subscribed as eric at megageek.com

Shop-talk mailing list

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk

http://www.team.net/archive

From gzhookoff at e2m.com  Fri Oct 23 13:16:03 2009
From: gzhookoff at e2m.com (George Zhookoff)
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 15:16:03 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Ladybugs (shop related)
References: <OFEA568CB5.979DA9DE-ON85257658.005E5532-85257658.005E5537@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <56BC26A92D7B4244ACBF6A3182D97895088AA459@CARVER.norcross.local>

Fox on Sirrius radio just did a spot on the lady bug infestation.  Might
be on cable tonight also.
George

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of eric at megageek.com
Sent: Friday, October 23, 2009 1:10 PM
To: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Ladybugs (shop related)

Yes, I have the orange, nuisance ones.  The local exterminator stated
that
they are still "protected" and they can't expressly kill them.  But they
can treat for "winged insects,"  but their guarantees don't cover them
(as
they are protected.)


Moose
bBe as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a
rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b Ralph
Waldo Emerson



-----"Karl Vacek" <kvacek at ameritech.net> wrote: -----


To: <shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net>, <eric at megageek.com>
From: "Karl Vacek" <kvacek at ameritech.net>
Date: 10/22/2009 22:23
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Ladybugs (shop related)


Are they real red ladybugs, or the damn orange Chinese ones ?  I'd be
amazed
(and dismayed) if the orange ones are protected, since they multiply
prolifically and kill the beneficial red ones.

We've been inundated with the orange ones for 6-7 years now in the
Midwest.
They bite sometimes and they stink when you smash them.  Some genius
thought
it was a great idea to introduce them, and now they're taken over.

In the winter, the inside of the roof sheathing (spaced boards, allowing
some openings to the outside) near the eaves in our garage attic are
coated
with tens of thousands of them - a few thick.



> OK, so I just got back from New Orleans and I found that ladybugs
moved
> into my brand new building.  Thousands of them.
>
> It's also "illegal" to kill them.  (but I don't mind if I have to)
But
> this means that I can't find poisons or such for them.
>
> So, what's the best way to get rid of these pests?
You are subscribed as gzhookoff at e2m.com

Shop-talk mailing list

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk

http://www.team.net/archive

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Fri Oct 23 13:55:36 2009
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 15:55:36 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] A tricky one (sort shop related)
In-Reply-To: <OFEB590AD0.943DB4C8-ON85257658.004E5D67-85257658.004E5D6C@
	mail.megageek.com>
References: <OFEB590AD0.943DB4C8-ON85257658.004E5D67-85257658.004E5D6C@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20091023155438.01d89f60@cox.net>

At 10:15 AM 10/23/2009, eric at megageek.com wrote:

 >OK, I travel ALOT for a living. One of the things I HATE to do is remvoe my
 >belt when I go through a metal detector.  For years I have been searching
 >for a non-metal belt buckle, but I can't find one.

Back when I was traveling a lot, I was told to reach down and turn the belt
buckle parallel to the ground.  That always worked for me.

John
John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From pdqtr6 at suscom-maine.net  Fri Oct 23 14:21:13 2009
From: pdqtr6 at suscom-maine.net (Tom Walling & Wendy Rose)
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 16:21:13 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] A tricky one (sort shop related)
In-Reply-To: <OFEB590AD0.943DB4C8-ON85257658.004E5D67-85257658.004E5D6C@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OFEB590AD0.943DB4C8-ON85257658.004E5D67-85257658.004E5D6C@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <A668D9376B9B472FB87EE17D4B4C008A@TomandWendyPC>

Here's one that not only won't set off the metal detectors (hook & eye 
closure) but also won't scratch your brand new mega-bucks paint job.

http://www.duluthtrading.com/store/clothes-workwear/mens/mens-belts-mens-suspenders/61024.aspx?feature=product_5

Plus they carry a lot of other good stuff (NFI).

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <eric at megageek.com>
To: <shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Friday, October 23, 2009 10:15 AM
Subject: [Shop-talk] A tricky one (sort shop related)


> OK, I travel ALOT for a living. One of the things I HATE to do is remvoe 
> my
> belt when I go through a metal detector.  For years I have been searching
> for a non-metal belt buckle, but I can't find one.
>
> Does anyone here know of any link for one?  Or better yet, how I could 
> make
> something like that?  Thanks in advance.
>
> (BTW, I just got back from New Orleans and will be back there in a week or
> so.  Any listers here in that area?)
>
>
>
> Moose
> b
Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b
 Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as pdqtr6 at suscom-maine.net
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From eric at megageek.com  Fri Oct 23 16:52:01 2009
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 18:52:01 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] 2nd best commercial ever (sort-of shop related)
Message-ID: <OFAD1ABB90.4CD2004B-ON85257658.007D83EC-85257658.007F2AA4@mail.megageek.com>

What a great commercial!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_7bVD-cUFTw

Moose
b
Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b
 Ralph 
Waldo Emerson

From jibjib at att.net  Fri Oct 23 22:35:06 2009
From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks)
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 21:35:06 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] A tricky one (sort shop related)
In-Reply-To: <579938CA842842B1B247A9772F1E09FB@DesktopPC>
References: <OFEB590AD0.943DB4C8-ON85257658.004E5D67-85257658.004E5D6C@mail.megageek.com><2400a5d40910230755q1670a181x3e55f17403408f61@mail.gmail.com>
	<579938CA842842B1B247A9772F1E09FB@DesktopPC>
Message-ID: <EE0B731D874A45E987F8B9DCA2A81735@hpa1477c>

I fly regularly too and my inch wide belt with a small metal buckle does not
set it off.

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve Hammatt Mount
Vernon WA USA
Sent: Friday, October 23, 2009 8:59 AM
To: David Scheidt
Cc: shop-talk at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] A tricky one (sort shop related)

Until recently I traveled 50 flights a year.
Never took my belt off.  I don't wear one of
the large belt buckles, just a simple metal
unit.  It has never been a problem.  Maybe
your buckles are a large style?

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Scheidt" <dmscheidt at gmail.com>
To: <eric at megageek.com>
Cc: <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 23, 2009 7:55 AM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] A tricky one (sort shop related)


> On Fri, Oct 23, 2009 at 10:15 AM, <eric at megageek.com> wrote:
>
>> OK, I travel ALOT for a living. One of the things I HATE to do is 
>> remvoe my
>> belt when I go through a metal detector.  For years I have been 
>> searching
>> for a non-metal belt buckle, but I can't find one.
>>
>> Does anyone here know of any link for one?  Or better yet, how I 
>> could make
>> something like that?  Thanks in advance.
>> \
>>
>
> http://www.beepfreeproducts.com/index.html
>
>
>
> -- 
> David Scheidt
> dmscheidt at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as gsteve at hammatt.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive


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You are subscribed as jibjib at att.net

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From gwishon at nd.edu  Sat Oct 24 05:36:32 2009
From: gwishon at nd.edu (Gordon Wishon)
Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 07:36:32 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] A tricky one (sort shop related)
In-Reply-To: <EE0B731D874A45E987F8B9DCA2A81735@hpa1477c>
References: <OFEB590AD0.943DB4C8-ON85257658.004E5D67-85257658.004E5D6C@mail.megageek.com><2400a5d40910230755q1670a181x3e55f17403408f61@mail.gmail.com>
	<579938CA842842B1B247A9772F1E09FB@DesktopPC>
	<EE0B731D874A45E987F8B9DCA2A81735@hpa1477c>
Message-ID: <9E08B9238407BE4BB3758776E3C48F5630C6D5C3B4@ICE-MBX-1.ice.nd.edu>

I fly tens of thousands of miles a year.  I've never had a belt buckle set off
the alarms.

Unfortunately, those days are over.  I had a hip replacement last month.

Gordon

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jack Brooks
Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 12:35 AM
To: 'Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA'; 'David Scheidt'
Cc: shop-talk at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] A tricky one (sort shop related)

I fly regularly too and my inch wide belt with a small metal buckle does not
set it off.

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve Hammatt Mount
Vernon WA USA
Sent: Friday, October 23, 2009 8:59 AM
To: David Scheidt
Cc: shop-talk at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] A tricky one (sort shop related)

Until recently I traveled 50 flights a year.
Never took my belt off.  I don't wear one of
the large belt buckles, just a simple metal
unit.  It has never been a problem.  Maybe
your buckles are a large style?

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA

----- Original Message -----
From: "David Scheidt" <dmscheidt at gmail.com>
To: <eric at megageek.com>
Cc: <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 23, 2009 7:55 AM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] A tricky one (sort shop related)


> On Fri, Oct 23, 2009 at 10:15 AM, <eric at megageek.com> wrote:
>
>> OK, I travel ALOT for a living. One of the things I HATE to do is
>> remvoe my
>> belt when I go through a metal detector.  For years I have been
>> searching
>> for a non-metal belt buckle, but I can't find one.
>>
>> Does anyone here know of any link for one?  Or better yet, how I
>> could make
>> something like that?  Thanks in advance.
>> \
>>
>
> http://www.beepfreeproducts.com/index.html
>
>
>
> --
> David Scheidt
> dmscheidt at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as gsteve at hammatt.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive


----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.423 / Virus Database: 270.14.26/2451 - Release Date:
10/22/09 08:51:00
You are subscribed as jibjib at att.net

Shop-talk mailing list

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk

http://www.team.net/archive
You are subscribed as gwishon at nd.edu

Shop-talk mailing list

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From dirtbeard at pacbell.net  Sat Oct 24 11:22:01 2009
From: dirtbeard at pacbell.net (old dirtbeard)
Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 10:22:01 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] air bags and dash work
Message-ID: <0B76F4893D4F4D78BC4EAF4E96940379@B50SS>

Hi guys,

I need to smog check my 03 GMC cargo van for the first time and will need to
remove the engine cover (under the dashboard) to get the smog check done.

I have done this many times for previous older vans, but when I looked at the
GMC shop manual there are all sorts of dire warnings about disabling the air
bag SIR, pulling the fuse, disconnecting all the various zone sensors, etc. It
makes the job a lot more complicated that I had envisioned.

Is all of this air bag precaution actually necessary to remove the engine
cover or is this over-cautious legalese for the benefit of the personal injury
lawyers. Thanks.

best,

doug

From jblair1948 at cox.net  Sat Oct 24 11:33:36 2009
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 13:33:36 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Hand held O scopes
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20091024132556.020d3c08@cox.net>

Hey gang,

I've been bouncing around the idea of trying to get a hand held Ocilloscope for
working on cars and other things.  I was thinking about the Velleman 
HPS 10 Handheld OScilloscope.

I was wondering if anyone has one, used one, etc.  How they like them.
I've used several of the Tectronics bench scopes in the past.

How do you like the one you've used?  Pros and cons?


John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Sat Oct 24 12:23:57 2009
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 14:23:57 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] air bags and dash work
In-Reply-To: <0B76F4893D4F4D78BC4EAF4E96940379@B50SS>
References: <0B76F4893D4F4D78BC4EAF4E96940379@B50SS>
Message-ID: <2400a5d40910241123g60aab2e3x99e272783f6cf036@mail.gmail.com>

On Sat, Oct 24, 2009 at 1:22 PM, old dirtbeard <dirtbeard at pacbell.net>wrote:

> Hi guys,
>
> I need to smog check my 03 GMC cargo van for the first time and will need
> to
> remove the engine cover (under the dashboard) to get the smog check done.
>
> I have done this many times for previous older vans, but when I looked at
> the
> GMC shop manual there are all sorts of dire warnings about disabling the
> air
> bag SIR, pulling the fuse, disconnecting all the various zone sensors, etc.
> It
> makes the job a lot more complicated that I had envisioned.
>
> Is all of this air bag precaution actually necessary to remove the engine
> cover or is this over-cautious legalese for the benefit of the personal
> injury
> lawyers. Thanks.
>
>
I have no idea, but why is this your problem, and not the problem of the
shop doing the test?  And what does that cover have to come off for,
anyway?  Can't they see from the hood?  And you don't need to do any of that
to get to the ODB port.

-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From doug at dougbraun.com  Sat Oct 24 12:33:28 2009
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 11:33:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] air bags and dash work
In-Reply-To: <0B76F4893D4F4D78BC4EAF4E96940379@B50SS>
Message-ID: <140519.4867.qm@web603.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

If the airbag should go off, even if you are not injured, it will be expensive to fix!

Well worth pulling a fuse.

You should be happy that you don't have to pull the steering wheel...

Doug

--- On Sat, 10/24/09, old dirtbeard <dirtbeard at pacbell.net> wrote:

> From: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard at pacbell.net>
> Subject: [Shop-talk] air bags and dash work
> To: shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Date: Saturday, October 24, 2009, 1:22 PM
> Hi guys,
> 
> I need to smog check my 03 GMC cargo van for the first time
> and will need to
> remove the engine cover (under the dashboard) to get the
> smog check done.
> 
> I have done this many times for previous older vans, but
> when I looked at the
> GMC shop manual there are all sorts of dire warnings about
> disabling the air
> bag SIR, pulling the fuse, disconnecting all the various
> zone sensors, etc. It
> makes the job a lot more complicated that I had
> envisioned.
> 
> Is all of this air bag precaution actually necessary to
> remove the engine
> cover or is this over-cautious legalese for the benefit of
> the personal injury
> lawyers. Thanks.
> 
> best,

From dirtbeard at pacbell.net  Sat Oct 24 15:02:58 2009
From: dirtbeard at pacbell.net (old dirtbeard)
Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 14:02:58 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] air bags and dash work
References: <0B76F4893D4F4D78BC4EAF4E96940379@B50SS>
	<2400a5d40910241123g60aab2e3x99e272783f6cf036@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A7B6A0346EBD413E8E9028C51166A385@B50SS>

Well, the dealer wanted $50 extra to do the check because they had to remove
the cover and the independent smog check guys wanted $20-$25 extra to do it. I
suppose it is because they need to visually inspect the connections at the
rear of the engine and you cannot see much of anything from under the hood.

I ended up taking it to an independent smog check and paid $20 extra for them
to remove and replace it. After thinking about the air bags going off and also
driving to the smog station with the cover removed, I figured I would give
them the $20 and if they popped off the air bags, it would be on them to
replace them. I also just had shoulder surgery and the right arm/shoulder is
not working so hot...

I watched them remove the cover and they did not appear to disable the air
bags sensors or pull the fuse. I think the manual is reflecting the potential
legal issues...

best,

shook
____________________
'72 BSA B50SS
'74 Triumph TR6
'01 HD XLH 883
'03 GMC Cargo Van
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: David Scheidt
  To: old dirtbeard
  Cc: shop-talk at autox.team.net
  Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 11:23 AM
  Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] air bags and dash work





  On Sat, Oct 24, 2009 at 1:22 PM, old dirtbeard <dirtbeard at pacbell.net>
wrote:

    Hi guys,

    I need to smog check my 03 GMC cargo van for the first time and will need
to
    remove the engine cover (under the dashboard) to get the smog check done.

    I have done this many times for previous older vans, but when I looked at
the
    GMC shop manual there are all sorts of dire warnings about disabling the
air
    bag SIR, pulling the fuse, disconnecting all the various zone sensors,
etc. It
    makes the job a lot more complicated that I had envisioned.

    Is all of this air bag precaution actually necessary to remove the engine
    cover or is this over-cautious legalese for the benefit of the personal
injury
    lawyers. Thanks.



  I have no idea, but why is this your problem, and not the problem of the
shop doing the test?  And what does that cover have to come off for, anyway?
Can't they see from the hood?  And you don't need to do any of that to get to
the ODB port.


  --
  David Scheidt
  dmscheidt at gmail.com

From eric at megageek.com  Mon Oct 26 05:45:11 2009
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 08:45:11 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] =?iso-8859-1?q?I_=92m_jealous!?=
Message-ID: <OF2F2313E6.1B08D64C-ON8525765B.00460E44-8525765B.00460E49@mail.megageek.com>

OK, so I was at the local Sears looking at a new 6b
 bench top belt sander
that is on sale (and the Craftsmanbs club gets an additional 10% this
month,) when I saw something that made my jaw dropb&

If you remember a few months ago I bought a new cabinet saw that I love and
it works great.  Well, I wish I would have waited, because Craftsman now
has a line of cabinet saws with MARBLE table tops!

Ibm SO jealously!  A completely stable and flat saw top, that doesnbt rust
or need wax!

Can someone here PLEASE give me a major downside to marble so I donbt feel
so bad!?!?!




Moose
b
Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b
 Ralph
Waldo Emerson

From marka at maracing.com  Mon Oct 26 07:26:13 2009
From: marka at maracing.com (Mark Andy)
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 10:26:13 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] =?iso-8859-1?q?I_=92m_jealous!?=
In-Reply-To: <OF2F2313E6.1B08D64C-ON8525765B.00460E44-8525765B.00460E49@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF2F2313E6.1B08D64C-ON8525765B.00460E44-8525765B.00460E49@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910261025540.6066@thunder.banklogic.net>

Howdy,

On Mon, 26 Oct 2009, eric at megageek.com wrote:
> Can someone here PLEASE give me a major downside to marble so I donbt 
> feel so bad!?!?!

It'll crack?

Mark

From mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org  Mon Oct 26 11:00:45 2009
From: mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org (Jimmie Mayfield)
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 14:00:45 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] I ?m jealous!
In-Reply-To: <OF2F2313E6.1B08D64C-ON8525765B.00460E44-8525765B.00460E49@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF2F2313E6.1B08D64C-ON8525765B.00460E44-8525765B.00460E49@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <20091026180045.GA61622@sackheads.org>

On Mon, Oct 26, 2009 at 08:45:11AM -0400, eric at megageek.com wrote:
> OK, so I was at the local Sears looking at a new 6b bench top belt sander
> that is on sale (and the Craftsmanbs club gets an additional 10% this
> month,) when I saw something that made my jaw dropb&
>
> If you remember a few months ago I bought a new cabinet saw that I love and
> it works great.  Well, I wish I would have waited, because Craftsman now
> has a line of cabinet saws with MARBLE table tops!
>
> Ibm SO jealously!  A completely stable and flat saw top, that doesnbt
rust
> or need wax!
>
> Can someone here PLEASE give me a major downside to marble so I donbt feel
> so bad!?!?!

Actually, it's most likely granite.  There are pros and cons to using it and
many a flamewar about it have been fought on various woodworking forums
around
the net.

Among the pros:
1) Granite is much cheaper than cast iron though the manufacturers may decide
   to keep the difference to boost their profit margins instead of passing
the
   savings onto the customer.

2) Granite doesn't rust.  Folks in the southeast or folks who heat their
shops
   with unvented propane heaters will appreciate this.


Among the cons:
1) Granite is brittle.  This might be a concern for granite-top tablesaws
that
   have a T-slot miter slot.  Steel City and Rigid saws were prone to blowing
   out the T-slot if too much pressure was placed on the miter gauge.  I
think
   Steel City redesigned their miter gauges to deal with this.

2) Granite is not magnetic.  If you use a magnetic dial indicator to check
   blade alignment, you'll need to use something else.


Frankly, there are more important features to look for in a new saw.  The
presence of a riving knife instead of a traditional splitter is a big one for
me.  These days, I'd refuse to buy a saw that cannot at least be retrofitted
with a riving knife.

Jimmie

From cavanadd at verizon.net  Mon Oct 26 19:08:53 2009
From: cavanadd at verizon.net (David C.)
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 19:08:53 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] I ?m jealous!
In-Reply-To: <20091026180045.GA61622@sackheads.org>
References: <OF2F2313E6.1B08D64C-ON8525765B.00460E44-8525765B.00460E49@mail.megageek.com>
	<20091026180045.GA61622@sackheads.org>
Message-ID: <4AE65635.9090005@verizon.net>

I'd say you pretty much nailed it.  As far as I am concerned, granite 
saw tops are pretty much a marketing gimmick.  It would be about the 
last thing I would look for if I was in the market for a new saw, which 
I'm not...I'm currently restoring a 1949 Unisaw, and when it's finished 
it'll join my 1965 Delta 12/14" table saw in my shop as my daily drivers.

Jimmie Mayfield wrote:
> On Mon, Oct 26, 2009 at 08:45:11AM -0400, eric at megageek.com wrote:
>> OK, so I was at the local Sears looking at a new 6b
 bench top belt sander
>> that is on sale (and the Craftsmanbs club gets an additional 10% this
>> month,) when I saw something that made my jaw dropb&
>>
>> If you remember a few months ago I bought a new cabinet saw that I love and
>> it works great.  Well, I wish I would have waited, because Craftsman now
>> has a line of cabinet saws with MARBLE table tops!
>>
>> Ibm SO jealously!  A completely stable and flat saw top, that doesnbt
> rust
>> or need wax!
>>
>> Can someone here PLEASE give me a major downside to marble so I donbt feel
>> so bad!?!?!
>
> Actually, it's most likely granite.  There are pros and cons to using it and
> many a flamewar about it have been fought on various woodworking forums
> around
> the net.
>
> Among the pros:
> 1) Granite is much cheaper than cast iron though the manufacturers may decide
>     to keep the difference to boost their profit margins instead of passing
> the
>     savings onto the customer.
>
> 2) Granite doesn't rust.  Folks in the southeast or folks who heat their
> shops
>     with unvented propane heaters will appreciate this.
>
>
> Among the cons:
> 1) Granite is brittle.  This might be a concern for granite-top tablesaws
> that
>     have a T-slot miter slot.  Steel City and Rigid saws were prone to blowing
>     out the T-slot if too much pressure was placed on the miter gauge.  I
> think
>     Steel City redesigned their miter gauges to deal with this.
>
> 2) Granite is not magnetic.  If you use a magnetic dial indicator to check
>     blade alignment, you'll need to use something else.
>
>
> Frankly, there are more important features to look for in a new saw.  The
> presence of a riving knife instead of a traditional splitter is a big one for
> me.  These days, I'd refuse to buy a saw that cannot at least be retrofitted
> with a riving knife.
>
> Jimmie
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as cavanadd at verizon.net
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From eric at megageek.com  Tue Oct 27 08:03:07 2009
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 11:03:07 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] 2 stroke Piston Rings
Message-ID: <OF58A911D7.A33CA589-ON8525765C.00526EEE-8525765C.005446E0@mail.megageek.com>

OK, when did it get so hard to buy 2 stroke piston rings? 

I have a leaf blower that I need one ring for.  I can't find any place on 
the web that will let me buy these rings by measurements.  (I have all the 
measurements already.)

Does anyone have a source for piston rings for small motors?  (cyc=31.81mm 
  bore=31.87mm  Ring thinkness=1.49mm  Ring ID=30mm Ring OD=32.86mm)

Thanks in advance. 

Moose
b
Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b
 Ralph 
Waldo Emerson

From eltonclark at gmail.com  Tue Oct 27 09:20:28 2009
From: eltonclark at gmail.com (Elton E. (Tony) Clark)
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 11:20:28 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] 2 stroke Piston Rings
In-Reply-To: <OF4CF04562.D6CB11F5-ON8525765C.0056FD2D-8525765C.0058B976@mail.megageek.com>
References: <ea2385360910270907r248eddfby8dcfa8118cb60313@mail.gmail.com>
	<OF4CF04562.D6CB11F5-ON8525765C.0056FD2D-8525765C.0058B976@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <ea2385360910270920m5e390c6enaf711b45ebe72af0@mail.gmail.com>

*Aha!  Then you must shift to "sly ol' phart" mode:  Ask, phone and e-search
for old area  dealers who once sold "Green-Machine". You want one that's
been there forever and is a "mom & pop" operation . . they NEVER throw
anything away!    *

On Tue, Oct 27, 2009 at 10:51 AM, <eric at megageek.com> wrote:

> The problem is that this leaf blower is a 20 year old (or more) "Green
> Machine" that isn't made, or even the parts aren't made anymore.  I can't
> get a cross reference chart or anything.
>
> Plus, the blower has no marking on the model number or even version.  Just
> a serial number.  Did I mention it was old?  8>)
>
> Moose

From eltonclark at gmail.com  Tue Oct 27 09:33:18 2009
From: eltonclark at gmail.com (Elton E. (Tony) Clark)
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 11:33:18 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] 2 stroke Piston Rings
In-Reply-To: <ea2385360910270920m5e390c6enaf711b45ebe72af0@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ea2385360910270907r248eddfby8dcfa8118cb60313@mail.gmail.com>
	<OF4CF04562.D6CB11F5-ON8525765C.0056FD2D-8525765C.0058B976@mail.megageek.com>
	<ea2385360910270920m5e390c6enaf711b45ebe72af0@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ea2385360910270933v6dcf94fdrcc3aae0daeccc2cd@mail.gmail.com>

*There is mention of "Green Machine" parts sourcing on this site:*

*http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/tools/msg080002044809.html*



On Tue, Oct 27, 2009 at 11:20 AM, Elton E. (Tony) Clark <
eltonclark at gmail.com> wrote:

> *Aha!  Then you must shift to "sly ol' phart" mode:  Ask, phone and
> e-search for old area  dealers who once sold "Green-Machine". You want one
> that's been there forever and is a "mom & pop" operation . . they NEVER
> throw anything away!    *
>
>
> On Tue, Oct 27, 2009 at 10:51 AM, <eric at megageek.com> wrote:
>
>> The problem is that this leaf blower is a 20 year old (or more) "Green
>> Machine" that isn't made, or even the parts aren't made anymore.  I can't
>> get a cross reference chart or anything.
>>
>> Plus, the blower has no marking on the model number or even version.  Just
>> a serial number.  Did I mention it was old?  8>)
>>
>> Moose

From strovato at optonline.net  Tue Oct 27 11:05:59 2009
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 14:05:59 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] =?iso-8859-1?q?I_=92m_jealous!?=
Message-ID: <0KS600CBAQAZEXC0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

OK, so which saw is it?  I looked at my local sears and online and I 
didn't see anything with a marble top.  I did find one with black 
painted sheet metal, though.  Do you know the model number?  I'm not 
rushing out to buy it or anything, but I thought I'd take a look just 
to see what you were talking about.  Thanks.

-Steve Trovato
strovato at optonline.net


At 08:45 AM 10/26/2009, eric at megageek.com wrote:
>OK, so I was at the local Sears looking at a new 6bbench top belt sander
>that is on sale (and the Craftsmanbs club gets an additional 10% this
>month,) when I saw something that made my jaw dropb&
>
>If you remember a few months ago I bought a new cabinet saw that I love and
>it works great.  Well, I wish I would have waited, because Craftsman now
>has a line of cabinet saws with MARBLE table tops!

From Tim.Mullen at ngc.com  Tue Oct 27 11:14:34 2009
From: Tim.Mullen at ngc.com (Mullen, Tim (IS))
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 13:14:34 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] air bags and dash work
In-Reply-To: <A7B6A0346EBD413E8E9028C51166A385@B50SS>
References: <0B76F4893D4F4D78BC4EAF4E96940379@B50SS><2400a5d40910241123g60aab2e3x99e272783f6cf036@mail.gmail.com>
	<A7B6A0346EBD413E8E9028C51166A385@B50SS>
Message-ID: <9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C797039F4BB7@XMBIL103.northgrum.com>

old dirtbeard wrote:
>
> Well, the dealer wanted $50 extra to do the check because they
> had to remove the cover and the independent smog check guys
> wanted $20-$25 extra to do it.

What state do you live in?  Here in Virginia, the state sets the fee,
and it's illegal for anyone to change anything more.  Heck, I get to
take my Lotus to the Ferrari dealer for its "safety" and smog checks
because they have to charge the same as the local gas station (and
they take better care of the car).

Tim Mullen

Chantilly, VA

From mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org  Tue Oct 27 11:39:41 2009
From: mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org (Jimmie Mayfield)
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 14:39:41 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] I ?m jealous!
In-Reply-To: <0KS600CBAQAZEXC0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
References: <0KS600CBAQAZEXC0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Message-ID: <20091027183941.GA67620@sackheads.org>

On Tue, Oct 27, 2009 at 02:05:59PM -0400, Steven Trovato wrote:
> OK, so which saw is it?  I looked at my local sears and online and I didn't 
> see anything with a marble top.  I did find one with black painted sheet 
> metal, though.  Do you know the model number?  I'm not rushing out to buy 
> it or anything, but I thought I'd take a look just to see what you were 
> talking about.  Thanks.

Don't forget to check with Grizzly.  They're currently selling the G1023SL
(a true 3HP cabinet saw) for under $800 plus shipping.  No riving knife but
you can get an aftermarket BORK for about $125 or so.  That's a great price
on a well-regarded saw...

Jimmie

From doug at dougbraun.com  Tue Oct 27 11:53:32 2009
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 11:53:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Extreme irony: Brand enginnering
In-Reply-To: <0KS600CBAQAZEXC0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Message-ID: <501367.21560.qm@web603.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

>From a NY Times article on Fiat and Chrysler:

The new Alfa Romeo would be
manufactured in the United States and be based on the platform of the Jeep
Grand Cherokee, one of Chryslerbs most successful models.


Doug

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Tue Oct 27 12:07:26 2009
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 14:07:26 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Extreme irony: Brand enginnering
References: <501367.21560.qm@web603.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <77324740D037448DA087925710819852@KARL>

Can you say "Crime against nature" ???



> The new Alfa Romeo would be
> manufactured in the United States and be based on the platform of the Jeep
> Grand Cherokee, one of Chryslerbs most successful models.
>
>
> Doug

From strovato at optonline.net  Tue Oct 27 12:24:02 2009
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 15:24:02 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] =?iso-8859-1?q?I_=E2=80=99m_jealous!?=
In-Reply-To: <2400a5d40910271202u4620d05bn6d90f805979600ff@mail.gmail.co
  m>
References: <0KS600CBAQAZEXC0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
	<2400a5d40910271202u4620d05bn6d90f805979600ff@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0KS600DJETX09MH0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

I'm not finding that number on the craftsman website.  It does show 
up, however if I search from the sears.com website.  Very 
strange.  Anyway, the description says it is granite, not marble, and 
it does have a riving knife:

"Granite table and extensions provide smooth flat surface for 
accurate cuts 40 in. Wx27 in.D. Riving Knife with quick connect 
locking pin and knob for quick removal. 37-3/8 in. Steel rip fence 
with HPE side panels for accurate cutting. 30 in. Cut Capacity to the 
right and 13in. Cut capacity to the left."


At 03:02 PM 10/27/2009, David Scheidt wrote:

>22116.
>
>--
>David Scheidt
><mailto:dmscheidt at gmail.com>dmscheidt at gmail.com

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Tue Oct 27 12:27:09 2009
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 15:27:09 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] =?utf-8?b?SSDDouKCrOKEom0gamVhbG91cyE=?=
In-Reply-To: <0KS600DJETX09MH0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
References: <0KS600CBAQAZEXC0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
	<2400a5d40910271202u4620d05bn6d90f805979600ff@mail.gmail.com>
	<0KS600DJETX09MH0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Message-ID: <2400a5d40910271227t63133c71m566b21d23c20c522@mail.gmail.com>

On Tue, Oct 27, 2009 at 3:24 PM, Steven Trovato <strovato at optonline.net>wrote:

>  I'm not finding that number on the craftsman website.  It does show up,
> however if I search from the sears.com website.  Very strange.  Anyway,
> the description says it is granite, not marble, and it does have a riving
> knife:
>
>
A riving knife is a requirement for new table saw designs introduced this
year.  It will become required on all saws (including old designs) in a few
years.
-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From jem at milleredp.com  Tue Oct 27 13:22:29 2009
From: jem at milleredp.com (John Miller)
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 13:22:29 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Extreme irony: Brand enginnering
In-Reply-To: <501367.21560.qm@web603.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <501367.21560.qm@web603.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4AE75685.80507@milleredp.com>

Doug Braun wrote:
>>From a NY Times article on Fiat and Chrysler:
> 
> The new Alfa Romeo would be
> manufactured in the United States and be based on the platform of the Jeep
> Grand Cherokee, one of Chryslerbs most successful models.

Hey, it worked for Saab and the Trailblazer, right?

*gack*

John.

From jibjib at att.net  Tue Oct 27 21:13:03 2009
From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks)
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 21:13:03 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] 2 stroke Piston Rings
In-Reply-To: <OF58A911D7.A33CA589-ON8525765C.00526EEE-8525765C.005446E0@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF58A911D7.A33CA589-ON8525765C.00526EEE-8525765C.005446E0@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <73F46314526C465884761B165379ABAC@hpa1477c>

The RC plane guys use Frank Bowman.  His info follows.  BTW - We do convert
weed wackers and other small engines to use on larger RC planes.



Jack





I've had a few guys on RCG asking me about where to get rings for their
engines. Here is the gent who I've purchased from in the past. He is very
responsive, quick to ship, and at a decent price. He has rings for most
engines. Email him and you can get a pricing and list of available rings.



ringmaster46 at msn.com

Frank C. Bowman

1211 N Allen Ave.

Farmington, NM 87401

505 327 0696



"Along with my new ring, Mr. Bowman included a listing of engines he makes
rings for. The number and variety of engines in the listing is astounding.
Mr. Bowman also includes a short paragraph on the care and feeding of new
piston rings. He manufactures repro and current piston rings for our
modeling needs. He can make standaed standard and Dykes type rings. If he
doesn't have the ring you need in stock, you send the piston and cylinder
and he will make the ring. Prices are $7.50 up to $9.50. His work is of the
finest quality. He can be reached 6PM to 9PM Mountain Standard Time
weekdays."



To quote Frank:



"Quality at a fair honest price. Making a good ring is a Skill. Making a
fine ring is an Art."



-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of eric at megageek.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2009 8:03 AM
To: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Shop-talk] 2 stroke Piston Rings



OK, when did it get so hard to buy 2 stroke piston rings?



I have a leaf blower that I need one ring for.  I can't find any place on

the web that will let me buy these rings by measurements.  (I have all the

measurements already.)



Does anyone have a source for piston rings for small motors?  (cyc=31.81mm

  bore=31.87mm  Ring thinkness=1.49mm  Ring ID=30mm Ring OD=32.86mm)



Thanks in advance.



Moose

bBe as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational

being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b Ralph

Waldo Emerson
You are subscribed as jibjib at att.net



Shop-talk mailing list



http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk



http://www.team.net/archive

From rs1121 at earthlink.net  Wed Oct 28 08:42:18 2009
From: rs1121 at earthlink.net (Ron Schmittou)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 10:42:18 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] =?utf-8?b?SSDDouKCrOKEom0gamVhbG91cyE=?=
In-Reply-To: <2400a5d40910271227t63133c71m566b21d23c20c522@mail.gmail.com>
References: <0KS600CBAQAZEXC0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
	<2400a5d40910271202u4620d05bn6d90f805979600ff@mail.gmail.com>
	<0KS600DJETX09MH0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
	<2400a5d40910271227t63133c71m566b21d23c20c522@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <015001ca57e5$3bc194b0$b344be10$@net>

Ok - I know I am showing my age here - but remember back when I was using
woodworking tools people were taught to be careful around the equipment, now
equipment is built  to be careful around the people!

What the heck is a riving knife?


C-Ya

Ron

>
A riving knife is a requirement for new table saw designs introduced this
year.  It will become required on all saws (including old designs) in a few
years.
--

From strovato at optonline.net  Wed Oct 28 08:50:20 2009
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 11:50:20 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] =?iso-8859-1?q?I_=C3=A2=80=99m_jealous!?=
In-Reply-To: <015001ca57e5$3bc194b0$b344be10$@net>
References: <0KS600CBAQAZEXC0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
	<2400a5d40910271202u4620d05bn6d90f805979600ff@mail.gmail.com>
	<0KS600DJETX09MH0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
	<2400a5d40910271227t63133c71m566b21d23c20c522@mail.gmail.com>
	<015001ca57e5$3bc194b0$b344be10$@net>
Message-ID: <0KS8002KNEOZFY80@mta3.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

Check this 
out:  http://www.finewoodworking.com/ToolGuide/ToolGuideArticle.aspx?id=31896


At 11:42 AM 10/28/2009, Ron Schmittou wrote:
>Ok - I know I am showing my age here - but remember back when I was using
>woodworking tools people were taught to be careful around the equipment, now
>equipment is built  to be careful around the people!
>
>What the heck is a riving knife?
>
>
>C-Ya
>
>Ron
>
> >
>A riving knife is a requirement for new table saw designs introduced this
>year.  It will become required on all saws (including old designs) in a few
>years.
>--
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>You are subscribed as strovato at optonline.net
>
>Shop-talk mailing list
>
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Wed Oct 28 09:26:05 2009
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 12:26:05 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] =?utf-8?b?SSDDouKCrOKEom0gamVhbG91cyE=?=
In-Reply-To: <015001ca57e5$3bc194b0$b344be10$@net>
References: <0KS600CBAQAZEXC0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
	<2400a5d40910271202u4620d05bn6d90f805979600ff@mail.gmail.com>
	<0KS600DJETX09MH0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
	<2400a5d40910271227t63133c71m566b21d23c20c522@mail.gmail.com>
	<015001ca57e5$3bc194b0$b344be10$@net>
Message-ID: <2400a5d40910280926l18892d27recee851fca48a4cf@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, Oct 28, 2009 at 11:42 AM, Ron Schmittou <rs1121 at earthlink.net>wrote:

> Ok - I know I am showing my age here - but remember back when I was using
> woodworking tools people were taught to be careful around the equipment,
> now
> equipment is built  to be careful around the people!
>
> What the heck is a riving knife?
>

Being careful around the machine doesn't protect you when the machine
attacks.  A riving knife is a metal blade, directly behind the blade (and
attached to the mechanism that raises, lowers, and tilts the blade, so it's
always in the right place) and slightly lower than the top of the blade,
that's designed to keep the board you're cutting from kicking back.  It's a
splitter, but better.  For one thing, since it's attached to the blade
adustment mechanism, and is lower than the blade, it doesn't get in way as
much (never, in my experience) as a splitter does, even on blind cuts,
dadoes, and the like, where a standard splitter has to be removed.  And
since you don't have to take it off, you don't have to remember to put it
back on.  (It's also a lot cheaper than a splitter, at least on saws
designed to have one.)

-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From rs1121 at earthlink.net  Wed Oct 28 09:47:24 2009
From: rs1121 at earthlink.net (Ron Schmittou)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 11:47:24 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] =?utf-8?b?SSDDg8Ki4oKs4oSibSBqZWFsb3VzIQ==?=
In-Reply-To: <0KS8002KNEOZFY80@mta3.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
References: <0KS600CBAQAZEXC0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
	<2400a5d40910271202u4620d05bn6d90f805979600ff@mail.gmail.com>
	<0KS600DJETX09MH0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
	<2400a5d40910271227t63133c71m566b21d23c20c522@mail.gmail.com>
	<015001ca57e5$3bc194b0$b344be10$@net>
	<0KS8002KNEOZFY80@mta3.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Message-ID: <016c01ca57ee$5391af90$fab50eb0$@net>

Pretty cool - I have only seen the splitter and guards and they are royal pain
to deal with.

Do they make an adapter that works with dado blade?

C-Ya

Ron

-----Original Message-----
From: Steven Trovato [mailto:strovato at optonline.net]
Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2009 10:50 AM
To: Ron Schmittou; 'shop-talk'
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] I CB"b,b"m jealous!

Check this
out:  http://www.finewoodworking.com/ToolGuide/ToolGuideArticle.aspx?id=31896

From eric at megageek.com  Wed Oct 28 17:51:09 2009
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 20:51:09 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Micrometers
Message-ID: <OF099302BA.B5BB8ABE-ON8525765E.00042E2E-8525765E.000646B7@mail.megageek.com>

OK, it's that time of the year again.  Time to talk about micrometers.

Here is the thing, I found a place that will make the rings for me (Thanks 
to Jack B.)  The problem is, that I need to get a good measurement to send 
him.

So after trying all THREE of my micrometers, I realized that the inside 
and outside of the calipers aren't calibrated.  My most accurate 
micrometer has a fixed one so I can't even adjust it.

So, now, not only do I need a new ring, but I need a new micrometer.

Any suggestions?  I prefer a digital readout one and I'm not looking to 
take a second mortgage out on the house. (hopefully, under $100 bucks if 
possible.)

Thanks!

Moose
b
Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b
 Ralph 
Waldo Emerson

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Wed Oct 28 18:44:07 2009
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 21:44:07 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Micrometers
In-Reply-To: <OF099302BA.B5BB8ABE-ON8525765E.00042E2E-8525765E.000646B7@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF099302BA.B5BB8ABE-ON8525765E.00042E2E-8525765E.000646B7@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <B657CFB6543D4143A5D6014307E543AA@EricJRussellPC>

Pawn shop? 

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <eric at megageek.com>
To: <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2009 8:51 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] Micrometers


> ...I need a new micrometer.
> 
> Any suggestions?  I prefer a digital readout one and I'm not looking to 
> take a second mortgage out on the house. (hopefully, under $100 bucks if 
> possible.)

From cavanadd at verizon.net  Wed Oct 28 18:46:43 2009
From: cavanadd at verizon.net (David C.)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 18:46:43 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Micrometers
In-Reply-To: <OF099302BA.B5BB8ABE-ON8525765E.00042E2E-8525765E.000646B7@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF099302BA.B5BB8ABE-ON8525765E.00042E2E-8525765E.000646B7@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <4AE8F403.7060307@verizon.net>

Do you need to measure the diameter of the bore of the engine?  If so, 
then these are all you need:

> http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Telescoping-Bore-Gauge-Set/dp/B00134DPBI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1256780671&sr=8-3



eric at megageek.com wrote:
> OK, it's that time of the year again.  Time to talk about micrometers.
>
> Here is the thing, I found a place that will make the rings for me (Thanks
> to Jack B.)  The problem is, that I need to get a good measurement to send
> him.
>
> So after trying all THREE of my micrometers, I realized that the inside
> and outside of the calipers aren't calibrated.  My most accurate
> micrometer has a fixed one so I can't even adjust it.
>
> So, now, not only do I need a new ring, but I need a new micrometer.
>
> Any suggestions?  I prefer a digital readout one and I'm not looking to
> take a second mortgage out on the house. (hopefully, under $100 bucks if
> possible.)
>
> Thanks!
>
> Moose
> b
Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b
 Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as cavanadd at verizon.net
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Wed Oct 28 18:52:10 2009
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 20:52:10 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Micrometers
References: <OF099302BA.B5BB8ABE-ON8525765E.00042E2E-8525765E.000646B7@mail.megageek.com>
	<B657CFB6543D4143A5D6014307E543AA@EricJRussellPC>
Message-ID: <A63086275DA44C71B8CC4CEE8924DCB9@KARL>

Harbor Freight - micrometers and calipers - digital or regular - cheap, and 
they seem as accurate as my old Starrett and B&S mikes.



>> ...I need a new micrometer.
>>
>> Any suggestions?  I prefer a digital readout one and I'm not looking to 
>> take a second mortgage out on the house. (hopefully, under $100 bucks if 
>> possible.)

From wmc_st at xxiii.com  Wed Oct 28 18:55:19 2009
From: wmc_st at xxiii.com (Wayne)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 21:55:19 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT:  killer deal on LCD monitor
Message-ID: <4AE8F607.30205@xxiii.com>

Hey Guys...

Killer deal @ Dell on that big LCD monitor for uhh... your shop 
computer.  24" Samsung model 2494SW, normally $260, PLUS a Logitech 
wireless keyboard and mouse, all for $199.99 with free shipping:
http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/products/Monitors/productdetail.aspx?c=us&l=en&s=bsd&cs=04&sku=A3138265

Says it ends Thursday -- don't know if that means midnight tonight or 
tomorrow.

-Wayne

From strovato at optonline.net  Wed Oct 28 19:55:45 2009
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 22:55:45 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Micrometers
In-Reply-To: <4AE8F403.7060307@verizon.net>
References: <OF099302BA.B5BB8ABE-ON8525765E.00042E2E-8525765E.000646B7@mail.megageek.com>
	<4AE8F403.7060307@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <0KS900H0P9HMGXQ0@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

David,

My understanding of these is that they just lock in on the bore 
dimension, and then you still need a micrometer or caliper to 
translate "this big" to an actual number.

-Steve Trovato
strovato at optonline.net

At 09:46 PM 10/28/2009, David C. wrote:
>Do you need to measure the diameter of the bore of the engine?  If 
>so, then these are all you need:
>
>>http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Telescoping-Bore-Gauge-Set/dp/B00134DPBI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1256780671&sr=8-3

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Oct 28 20:14:06 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 21:14:06 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Micrometers
In-Reply-To: <4AE8F403.7060307@verizon.net>
References: <OF099302BA.B5BB8ABE-ON8525765E.00042E2E-8525765E.000646B7@mail.megageek.com>
	<4AE8F403.7060307@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <4AE9087E.4040008@bradakis.com>

>> http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Telescoping-Bore-Gauge-Set/dp/B00134DPBI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1256780671&sr=8-3 
>>

Snap gauges like these are nice, but they don't provide any numbers.

A real dial bore gauge, though, is different.

mjb.

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Wed Oct 28 20:43:36 2009
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 23:43:36 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Micrometers
In-Reply-To: <4AE9087E.4040008@bradakis.com>
References: <OF099302BA.B5BB8ABE-ON8525765E.00042E2E-8525765E.000646B7@mail.megageek.com>
	<4AE8F403.7060307@verizon.net> <4AE9087E.4040008@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <4AE90F68.8000304@snet.net>

I have a real nice dial bore gauge I bought at a swap meet (Hershey a 
few years ago) that is Chinese sourced, like HF.  The mechanics of it 
seem to rival the "real" equipment and it gives me repeatable results.  
It's easy to swap in a better name brand dial indicator that provides a 
tighter range.  While it's a comparative measurement, I have calibrated 
it by zeroing it to a known dimension, the inside of a micrometer.  In 
turn, I was lucky enough a while back to obtain a retired machinists set 
of gauge blocks that I use to calibrate my micrometer before measuring 
any critical dimension, as much to calibrate my technique as to the 
tool.  I found the dial bore routine to give me more repeatable results 
than I could get with snap gauges.

Of course, if this is for the purpose of sizing rings to a particular 
bore, I question how accurate it must be anyway.  When you fit the 
rings, you should grind them to adjust the gap to spec, so there is some 
allowance there.

As far as micrometers go, I have found that my HF versions give me the 
same results as the name brand ones that I later got from the retired 
machinist.  My HF set is a set of 6 from 1" to 6" and they cost around 
$75.  No digital readout, though.

Mark J Bradakis wrote:
>>> http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Telescoping-Bore-Gauge-Set/dp/B00134DPBI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1256780671&sr=8-3 
>>>
>
> Snap gauges like these are nice, but they don't provide any numbers.
>
> A real dial bore gauge, though, is different.
>
> mjb.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Oct 28 20:45:03 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 20:45:03 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Micrometers
In-Reply-To: <0KS900H0P9HMGXQ0@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Message-ID: <20091029034502375.KZCI4372@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> My understanding of these is that they just lock in on the bore 
> dimension, and then you still need a micrometer or caliper to 
> translate "this big" to an actual number.

Right.  In addition, it requires a good deal of both care and "feel" to get
them positioned just right in the bore.  If they aren't held perfectly
positioned _while_ you tighten the screw, then the resulting measurement
will be wrong.

That said, I can't justify buying a proper bore gauge, so I have a set
similar to those shown.  I keep taking measurements until I get 3 in a row
that agree ... which takes a surprising number of tries!

Moose, I'm not entirely sure what you are looking for, but IMO Enco has both
better quality and better prices than HF.  Eg,
http://tinyurl.com/yjp22or

Randall

From herby at herbytoys.com  Wed Oct 28 21:08:08 2009
From: herby at herbytoys.com (Herby)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 21:08:08 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Belt-Disc Sander ideas
Message-ID: <9D82C0F76D1D4748AA3112269CAC25B8@HERBYZ>

I'm looking for new Combo Disc/Belt Sander for our shop. This will get used
pretty much daily, 4-5 hours per day. Looking for 12 inch disc and 6 inch
(x48) belt, 120V single phase. The 1st option we looked at was the Dayton at
Grainger. Looked at the Jet and Wilton but they seem like the Dayton. I'd
like to find something a little better hopefully, maybe along the lines of
the Kalamazoo S612 or S612V. Anyone have other options I should look at?

TIA

 

 

herby at herbytoys.com

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Oct 28 21:15:48 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 22:15:48 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Micrometers
In-Reply-To: <4AE90F68.8000304@snet.net>
References: <OF099302BA.B5BB8ABE-ON8525765E.00042E2E-8525765E.000646B7@mail.megageek.com>
	<4AE8F403.7060307@verizon.net> <4AE9087E.4040008@bradakis.com>
	<4AE90F68.8000304@snet.net>
Message-ID: <4AE916F4.9050008@bradakis.com>

Jim Juhas wrote:
>  I was lucky enough a while back to obtain a retired machinists set of 
> gauge blocks

Harummph.  I hate you.

In truth I don't do that much fine measurement work, but a nice set of 
blocks would
be so sweet to have on hand.  So maybe I don't really hate you, but 
there may be a
small bit of jealousy involved.

mjb.

From eric at megageek.com  Thu Oct 29 01:20:54 2009
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 04:20:54 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Micrometers
In-Reply-To: <A63086275DA44C71B8CC4CEE8924DCB9@KARL>
Message-ID: <OF65A5D7AD.32C7FCEE-ON8525765E.002D87F0-8525765E.002F7399@mail.megageek.com>

Actually, I misspoke.  I need Electronic Calipers, no a micrometer.

Here is the problem, I'm seeing plenty of these for my price range.  But 
all of them seem to be built exactly the same (the inside teeth are fixed 
to the outside teeth.)  This means that if the set isn't perfect when you 
get them, there is no way to adjust them.  (This is the problem I have 
with my current set.)

SO, I'm back to my original question, but with the caveat of "is there a 
way to know if they are REAL quality before you buy and ship them to your 
house?"  Or is this the type of item you have to buy in person, say at a 
Sears or even a HF store?

Moose
b
Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b
 Ralph 
Waldo Emerson



"Karl Vacek" <kvacek at ameritech.net> 
10/28/2009 21:41
Please respond to
"Karl Vacek" <KVacek at Ameritech.net>


To
<shop-talk at autox.team.net>, <eric at megageek.com>
cc

Subject
Re: [Shop-talk] Micrometers







Harbor Freight - micrometers and calipers - digital or regular - cheap, 
and 
they seem as accurate as my old Starrett and B&S mikes.



>> ...I need a new micrometer.
>>
>> Any suggestions?  I prefer a digital readout one and I'm not looking to 

>> take a second mortgage out on the house. (hopefully, under $100 bucks 
if 
>> possible.)

From opposumking at verizon.net  Thu Oct 29 02:49:24 2009
From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 05:49:24 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Micrometers
References: <OF65A5D7AD.32C7FCEE-ON8525765E.002D87F0-8525765E.002F7399@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <BE0DB6F7235D496DA3F265CA61CD013B@mde.state.md.us>

Not sure what you mean by inside and outside teeth.  There is a rack and a 
gear.  The gear spins as it goes up and down the rack.  No, there is no 
adjustment.  Nor is there and ajustment on manual ones.  The ratio is fixed. 
Both the manual and electronic ones let you adjust zero to your hearts 
content.

The most effective way I've found to check the quality of a caliper is to 
close the jaws, zero the display, open and close the jaws, and see if it is 
still zeroed.  Don't know of any way to ensure a caliper os good and 
undamaged by mail order. 

From mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org  Thu Oct 29 06:40:21 2009
From: mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org (Jimmie Mayfield)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 09:40:21 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Belt-Disc Sander ideas
In-Reply-To: <9D82C0F76D1D4748AA3112269CAC25B8@HERBYZ>
References: <9D82C0F76D1D4748AA3112269CAC25B8@HERBYZ>
Message-ID: <20091029134020.GA36093@sackheads.org>

On Wed, Oct 28, 2009 at 09:08:08PM -0700, Herby wrote:
> I'm looking for new Combo Disc/Belt Sander for our shop. This will get used
> pretty much daily, 4-5 hours per day. Looking for 12 inch disc and 6 inch
> (x48) belt, 120V single phase. The 1st option we looked at was the Dayton at
> Grainger. Looked at the Jet and Wilton but they seem like the Dayton. I'd
> like to find something a little better hopefully, maybe along the lines of
> the Kalamazoo S612 or S612V. Anyone have other options I should look at?

Can't help you with suggestions other than to keep your eye open for
used equipment (cabinet shops closing, etc).  Occasionally a General or
Dayton brand unit shows up on the local Craigslist though since I'm not in 
the market I haven't paid much attention.

Something I've always been curious about regarding these combo units: what
does the disc sander part of the machine accomplish that cannot be done
using the belt sander, especially if you build a better table for the belt
sander?  I'm also curious...aside from space considerations, is there a 
reason why someone would choose a one of these combo units over a 
full-fledged edge sander?

JM

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Thu Oct 29 07:45:23 2009
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (J. F. Juhas)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 10:45:23 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Micrometers
In-Reply-To: <OF65A5D7AD.32C7FCEE-ON8525765E.002D87F0-8525765E.002F7399@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF65A5D7AD.32C7FCEE-ON8525765E.002D87F0-8525765E.002F7399@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <4AE9AA83.5030004@snet.net>

I have a book on precision measuring instruments that describes how 
digital calipers work, and although I don't recall it clearly, I believe 
it suggested this technology is simple and inexpensive and so most 
bargain brands can be as good as the name brands.  I'll see if I can 
locate the portion of the book and send it to you tonight.

At the risk of making Mark even more envious, the same retired-machinist 
stash served up a Brown & Sharpe digital caliper.

eric at megageek.com wrote:
> Actually, I misspoke.  I need Electronic Calipers, no a micrometer.
>
> Here is the problem, I'm seeing plenty of these for my price range.  But 
> all of them seem to be built exactly the same (the inside teeth are fixed 
> to the outside teeth.)  This means that if the set isn't perfect when you 
> get them, there is no way to adjust them.  (This is the problem I have 
> with my current set.)
>
> SO, I'm back to my original question, but with the caveat of "is there a 
> way to know if they are REAL quality before you buy and ship them to your 
> house?"  Or is this the type of item you have to buy in person, say at a 
> Sears or even a HF store?
>
> Moose
> b
Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b
 Ralph 
> Waldo Emerson

From eric at megageek.com  Thu Oct 29 08:17:53 2009
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 11:17:53 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Leaf Blowers, The new air compressors?
Message-ID: <OF11A693F1.B15AEDEC-ON8525765E.0052849C-8525765E.0055A0BB@mail.megageek.com>

Ok, Part VII of my on going leaf blower saga...

I started looking at replacing the leaf blower with a new one, and as I 
looked at the packages, I'm seeing the claims of air flow that are getting 
weird.

In some cases, the more air / speed, the cheaper the price.

Here are a few I'm looking at... (I'm down graded from a backpack.)

http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10155_12602_071C0004000B?keyword=leaf+blower

Any advice?  Should I just bite the bullet and get a backpack for about 
twice the price?  (I don't make a living doing this, but I do have a large 
area that I normally do.)

Moose
b
Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b
 Ralph 
Waldo Emerson

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Thu Oct 29 09:06:29 2009
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 12:06:29 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Micrometers
In-Reply-To: <4AE9AA83.5030004@snet.net>
References: <OF65A5D7AD.32C7FCEE-ON8525765E.002D87F0-8525765E.002F7399@mail.megageek.com>
	<4AE9AA83.5030004@snet.net>
Message-ID: <2400a5d40910290906h53222333kaeb047979d9049e3@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, Oct 29, 2009 at 10:45 AM, J. F. Juhas <james.f.juhas at snet.net>wrote:

> I have a book on precision measuring instruments that describes how digital
> calipers work, and although I don't recall it clearly, I believe it
> suggested this technology is simple and inexpensive and so most bargain
> brands can be as good as the name brands.  I'll see if I can locate the
> portion of the book and send it to you tonight.
>

Yes.  No moving parts.  There's a printed pattern on two printed circuit
boards.  A sensor detects the change of capacitance as the two parts move
relative to each other.  With standard PCB fabrication methods, you can get
something like a tenth (one 10,000th of an inch) accuracy in 6" board.  Some
apparently use induction, but the idea is the same.  The circuit involved is
about a second semester project these days.  Only precision machining the
caliper needs is to make sure it runs square.  A cheap digital caliper
(assuming it's not bent or something) is more accurate than an expensive
non-digital one.  Progress is cool, sometimes.

-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From arvidj at visi.com  Thu Oct 29 09:20:10 2009
From: arvidj at visi.com (Arvid Jedlicka)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 11:20:10 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Leaf Blowers, The new air compressors?
References: <OF11A693F1.B15AEDEC-ON8525765E.0052849C-8525765E.0055A0BB@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <F8132AEA5A2E41E98C573AA577B1D5F9@behavioral.com>

As a data point, not a recommendation, Consumer Reports has a best buy check 
mark on the Stihl BG55 - 75 points, with the Craftsman 79498 and 79496 - 
could not find either on the Sears site - at 49 and 47 points. They Ryobi 
RY08548 was listed as a 'recommended' at 68 points.

For back pack, it was Husqvarna 356BFx at 90 points and the most expensive - 
which could be why it was not recommended, with the Echo PB-265L as a best 
buy and the Echo PB-260L and Kawasaki KRB300A as recommended - 81, 78 and 64 
points respectively. The Craftsman 79499 was at 40 points. Both of the 
Echo's have a foot note about 89-octane gas being recommended.

Again, not a recommendation of any of the items listed - or even of Consumer 
Reports ability to accurately judge stuff.

Arvid

> Ok, Part VII of my on going leaf blower saga...
>
> I started looking at replacing the leaf blower with a new one, and as I
> looked at the packages, I'm seeing the claims of air flow that are getting
> weird.
>
> In some cases, the more air / speed, the cheaper the price.
>
> Here are a few I'm looking at... (I'm down graded from a backpack.)
>
> http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10155_12602_071C0004000B?keyword=leaf+blower
>
> Any advice?  Should I just bite the bullet and get a backpack for about
> twice the price?  (I don't make a living doing this, but I do have a large
> area that I normally do.)

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Thu Oct 29 09:21:49 2009
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 12:21:49 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Leaf Blowers, The new air compressors?
In-Reply-To: <OF11A693F1.B15AEDEC-ON8525765E.0052849C-8525765E.0055A0BB@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF11A693F1.B15AEDEC-ON8525765E.0052849C-8525765E.0055A0BB@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <2400a5d40910290921w5847bb37k56adafb5bf5252f9@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, Oct 29, 2009 at 11:17 AM, <eric at megageek.com> wrote:

> Ok, Part VII of my on going leaf blower saga...
>
> I started looking at replacing the leaf blower with a new one, and as I
> looked at the packages, I'm seeing the claims of air flow that are getting
> weird.
>
> In some cases, the more air / speed, the cheaper the price.
>
> Here are a few I'm looking at... (I'm down graded from a backpack.)
>
>
> http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10155_12602_071C0004000B?keyword=leaf+blower
>
> Any advice?  Should I just bite the bullet and get a backpack for about
> twice the price?  (I don't make a living doing this, but I do have a large
> area that I normally do.)
>
> Which do you like doing, blowing leaves, or anything else?   get a
backpack.

-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From marka at maracing.com  Thu Oct 29 10:17:59 2009
From: marka at maracing.com (Mark Andy)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 13:17:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Micrometers
In-Reply-To: <2400a5d40910290906h53222333kaeb047979d9049e3@mail.gmail.com>
References: <OF65A5D7AD.32C7FCEE-ON8525765E.002D87F0-8525765E.002F7399@mail.megageek.com>
	<4AE9AA83.5030004@snet.net>
	<2400a5d40910290906h53222333kaeb047979d9049e3@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910291316580.358@thunder.banklogic.net>

Howdy,

On Thu, 29 Oct 2009, David Scheidt wrote:
> Yes.  No moving parts.  There's a printed pattern on two printed circuit 
> boards.  A sensor detects the change of capacitance as the two parts 
> move relative to each other.  With standard PCB fabrication methods, you 
> can get something like a tenth (one 10,000th of an inch) accuracy in 6" 
> board.  Some apparently use induction, but the idea is the same.  The 
> circuit involved is about a second semester project these days.  Only 
> precision machining the caliper needs is to make sure it runs square. 
> A cheap digital caliper (assuming it's not bent or something) is more 
> accurate than an expensive non-digital one.  Progress is cool, 
> sometimes.

That's cool to hear.  Thanks!

I will say there's one advantage to a dial caliper... If you're like me 
and it might sit six months before you grab it to measure something, its 
unlikely to have a dead battery.

:-)

Mark

From pethier at comcast.net  Thu Oct 29 12:05:02 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 19:05:02 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Micrometers
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910291316580.358@thunder.banklogic.net>
Message-ID: <668202070.2200931256843102188.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

But they can skip.  My old instructor kept one in his toolbox.  It was smack on when used to measure a 1" block and off when used on a 2" block.  He insisted on vernier calipers.  

I'd go straight from a vernier to an electronic (skipping over the dial-type) if I was in the trade.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

----- "Mark Andy" <marka at maracing.com> wrote:

> From: "Mark Andy" <marka at maracing.com>
> To: shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Sent: Thursday, October 29, 2009 12:17:59 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Micrometers
>
> Howdy,
> 
> On Thu, 29 Oct 2009, David Scheidt wrote:
> > Yes.  No moving parts.  There's a printed pattern on two printed
> circuit 
> > boards.  A sensor detects the change of capacitance as the two parts
> 
> > move relative to each other.  With standard PCB fabrication methods,
> you 
> > can get something like a tenth (one 10,000th of an inch) accuracy in
> 6" 
> > board.  Some apparently use induction, but the idea is the same. 
> The 
> > circuit involved is about a second semester project these days. 
> Only 
> > precision machining the caliper needs is to make sure it runs
> square. 
> > A cheap digital caliper (assuming it's not bent or something) is
> more 
> > accurate than an expensive non-digital one.  Progress is cool, 
> > sometimes.
> 
> That's cool to hear.  Thanks!
> 
> I will say there's one advantage to a dial caliper... If you're like
> me 
> and it might sit six months before you grab it to measure something,
> its 
> unlikely to have a dead battery.
> 
> :-)
> 
> Mark

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Oct 29 14:11:22 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 14:11:22 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Micrometers
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0910291316580.358@thunder.banklogic.net>
Message-ID: <20091029211121427.JSWB4372@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> If you're like me 
> and it might sit six months before you grab it to measure 
> something, its unlikely to have a dead battery.

Some of them have solar cells built in.  Just a few minutes in ordinary
light is enough to bring them back to life.

Besides, the lithium cells in common use today last for years, not just
months.

Randall

From Tim.Mullen at ngc.com  Thu Oct 29 15:17:29 2009
From: Tim.Mullen at ngc.com (Mullen, Tim (IS))
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 17:17:29 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Leaf Blowers, The new air compressors?
References: <OF11A693F1.B15AEDEC-ON8525765E.0052849C-8525765E.0055A0BB@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C7976387F8@XMBIL103.northgrum.com>

> Should I just bite the bullet and get a backpack for about
> twice the price?

Several years ago (maybe 8?) I bought a refurbished Homelite Backpack blower
from Harbor Freight.

It's been going strong ever since and it's really easy to use.

I also have the same basic blower in a hand held that someone gave me.  It is
very hard to control as the blower "blows" itself all over the place - it's
hard
to hold it pointed where I want it to go, especially if I'm swinging it back
and
forth (the gyroscopic effects kick in to and tries to move it where I don't
want
it to go.

Spring for the backpack blower if you need any blower at all.  It was the best
$99 I ever spent.  :)  If I had to replace it, I'd still get another backpack.
And it doesn't have to be a top dollar, big brand version, it's not like it's
going to get a lot of abuse - it's just going to be blowing a lot of air (it's
hard to overload it doing that).

Tim Mullen

Chantilly, VA

From jniolon at bham.rr.com  Thu Oct 29 15:39:34 2009
From: jniolon at bham.rr.com (john niolon)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 17:39:34 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] back pack blowers
Message-ID: <43DF347D4BB64604A1289455A50AF19E@niolon>

I've had a backpack for over 20 years... used it commercially for 4 years at 
first then at home ever since... I've got 1.5 acres with 75 oak trees... the 
formula is 1.5 x 75 = 3 trillion leaves.   Mine is a 32 cc craftsman and 
it's still going strong...   it gets a little heavy after 8 hours of work... 
but the newer ones are much lighter and ergonomic... best money I've ever 
spent for yard maintenance..



john

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Thu Oct 29 15:38:33 2009
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 17:38:33 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Micrometers
References: <668202070.2200931256843102188.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <D3ECB799A6AA46FA8627E79BC42C652F@KARL>

A printed circuit sounds great - guess I'll look at them soon.

The fine rack on dial calipers seems to attract all sorts of stuff and with 
teeth that fine most anything semi-hard has a good chance of jamming the 
rack and hurting a tooth.  Not that I've ever done that.  Thankfully it was 
only a Mitutoyo and not my Starrett...

Karl




> But they can skip.  My old instructor kept one in his toolbox.  It was 
> smack on when used to measure a 1" block and off when used on a 2" block. 
> He insisted on vernier calipers.
>
> I'd go straight from a vernier to an electronic (skipping over the 
> dial-type) if I was in the trade.
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Thu Oct 29 15:46:12 2009
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 17:46:12 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Leaf Blowers, The new air compressors?
References: <OF11A693F1.B15AEDEC-ON8525765E.0052849C-8525765E.0055A0BB@mail.megageek.com>
	<9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C7976387F8@XMBIL103.northgrum.com>
Message-ID: <446C34601F0C4DD887058E05249EF5D5@KARL>

My ancient Echo is handheld, but the nozzle is on a long tube with an 
accordion flex section at the blower, and a handle on a rod to allow the 
user to swing the nozzle from side to side, holding the blower itself 
steady.  Not tiring at all, and for smaller jobs it's easier than strapping 
on a backpack.  But I wish I'd have kept the backpack one for bigger jobs, 
like fall leaf clean-up.

My newer Echo shredder/vac/blower is a straight, non-flex design (besides 
being a POS anyway) and like Tim says, it's unwieldy to use it as a blower. 
I can't imagine using it from more than a minor job, and a broom would 
probably be just as easy.

Karl


>> Should I just bite the bullet and get a backpack for about
>> twice the price?

> I also have the same basic blower in a hand held that someone gave me.  It 
> is
> very hard to control as the blower "blows" itself all over the place - 
> it's
> hard
> to hold it pointed where I want it to go, especially if I'm swinging it 
> back
> and
> forth (the gyroscopic effects kick in to and tries to move it where I 
> don't
> want
> it to go.

From doug at dougbraun.com  Thu Oct 29 17:04:01 2009
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 17:04:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Micrometers
In-Reply-To: <2400a5d40910290906h53222333kaeb047979d9049e3@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <80544.34257.qm@web607.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

The $19.95 HF 6" digital caliper has the interesting property
that if you turn
it off, the display blanks, but it otherwise keeps working.  for example, if
you turn it off, move it, and turn it on again, it correctly indicated the new
position.  In fact, I think the battery will last just as long if you leave it
on all the time.

I have one, and it's incredibly handy.  Everybody ought to
own one.

Doug

--- On Thu, 10/29/09, David Scheidt <dmscheidt at gmail.com>
wrote:

> From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk]
Micrometers
> To: "J. F. Juhas" <james.f.juhas at snet.net>
> Cc:
shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Date: Thursday, October 29, 2009, 12:06 PM
> On
Thu, Oct 29, 2009 at 10:45 AM, J.
> F. Juhas <james.f.juhas at snet.net>wrote:
>
> > I have a book on precision measuring instruments that
> describes how
digital
> > calipers work, and although I don't recall it clearly,
> I believe
it
> > suggested this technology is simple and inexpensive
> and so most
bargain
> > brands can be as good as the name brands.  I'll
> see if I can
locate the
> > portion of the book and send it to you tonight.
> >
> 
> Yes. 
No moving parts.  There's a printed pattern
> on two printed circuit
>
boards.  A sensor detects the change of capacitance as
> the two parts move
>
relative to each other.  With standard PCB fabrication
> methods, you can get
> something like a tenth (one 10,000th of an inch) accuracy
> in 6" board. 
Some
> apparently use induction, but the idea is the same. 
> The circuit
involved is
> about a second semester project these days.  Only
> precision
machining the
> caliper needs is to make sure it runs square.  A cheap
>
digital caliper
> (assuming it's not bent or something) is more accurate than
> an expensive
> non-digital one.  Progress is cool, sometimes.
> 
> -- 
>
David Scheidt
> dmscheidt at gmail.com
>
_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> You are subscribed as doug at dougbraun.com
> 
> Shop-talk mailing list
> 
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
> 
>
http://www.team.net/archive

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Thu Oct 29 18:38:28 2009
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 21:38:28 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Micrometers
In-Reply-To: <80544.34257.qm@web607.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <80544.34257.qm@web607.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <FAA04582-3624-40DE-B0D0-7766BCDC106C@gmail.com>

On Oct 29, 2009, at 20:04, Doug Braun <doug at dougbraun.com> wrote:

> The $19.95 HF 6" digital caliper has the interesting property
> that if you turn it off, the display blanks, but it otherwise keeps  
> working.  for example, if you turn it off, move it, and turn it on  
> again, it correctly indicated the new position.  In fact, I think  
> the battery will last just as long if you leave it on all the time.
>
They all do that. It's a requirement of the multiple pole printed  
capacitor. If the circuit doesn't watch all the time it can't tell if  
it's moved. The power use when the display is off and it's not moving  
is really low. The display is low power but higher than the resting  
circuit.

While the digital calipers are pretty well to the sort of junk that  
dmages the gears of a dial, they're vulnerable to liquid that changes  
the capacitance of the linear encoder. Some are better sealed than  
others.


> I have one, and it's incredibly handy.  Everybody ought to own one.
>
> Doug
>
> --- On Thu, 10/29/09, David Scheidt <dmscheidt at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt at gmail.com>
>> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Micrometers
>> To: "J. F. Juhas" <james.f.juhas at snet.net>
>> Cc: shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Date: Thursday, October 29, 2009, 12:06 PM
>> On Thu, Oct 29, 2009 at 10:45 AM, J.
>> F. Juhas <james.f.juhas at snet.net>wrote:
>>
>>> I have a book on precision measuring instruments that
>> describes how digital
>>> calipers work, and although I don't recall it clearly,
>> I believe it
>>> suggested this technology is simple and inexpensive
>> and so most bargain
>>> brands can be as good as the name brands.  I'll
>> see if I can locate the
>>> portion of the book and send it to you tonight.
>>>
>>
>> Yes.  No moving parts.  There's a printed pattern
>> on two printed circuit
>> boards.  A sensor detects the change of capacitance as
>> the two parts move
>> relative to each other.  With standard PCB fabrication
>> methods, you can get
>> something like a tenth (one 10,000th of an inch) accuracy
>> in 6" board.  Some
>> apparently use induction, but the idea is the same.
>> The circuit involved is
>> about a second semester project these days.  Only
>> precision machining the
>> caliper needs is to make sure it runs square.  A cheap
>> digital caliper
>> (assuming it's not bent or something) is more accurate than
>> an expensive
>> non-digital one.  Progress is cool, sometimes.
>>
>> -- 
>> David Scheidt
>> dmscheidt at gmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> You are subscribed as doug at dougbraun.com
>>
>> Shop-talk mailing list
>>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive

From gerrybraz at cablespeed.com  Fri Oct 30 06:03:45 2009
From: gerrybraz at cablespeed.com (Gerald Brazil)
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2009 09:03:45 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Micrometers
In-Reply-To: <80544.34257.qm@web607.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CC5235B18E70462CB6B31EED326C77AC@Digilink1>

I'll second that....they are so cheap I have one in the garage and one in
the basement......

Nearly all HF tools are worth at least what you paid for them.....

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Doug Braun
Sent: Thursday, October 29, 2009 8:04 PM
To: J. F. Juhas; David Scheidt
Cc: shop-talk at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Micrometers

The $19.95 HF 6" digital caliper has the interesting property
that if you turn
it off, the display blanks, but it otherwise keeps working.  for example, if
you turn it off, move it, and turn it on again, it correctly indicated the
new
position.  In fact, I think the battery will last just as long if you leave
it
on all the time.

I have one, and it's incredibly handy.  Everybody ought to
own one.

Doug

--- On Thu, 10/29/09, David Scheidt <dmscheidt at gmail.com>
wrote:

> From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk]
Micrometers
> To: "J. F. Juhas" <james.f.juhas at snet.net>
> Cc:
shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Date: Thursday, October 29, 2009, 12:06 PM
> On
Thu, Oct 29, 2009 at 10:45 AM, J.
> F. Juhas <james.f.juhas at snet.net>wrote:
>
> > I have a book on precision measuring instruments that
> describes how
digital
> > calipers work, and although I don't recall it clearly,
> I believe
it
> > suggested this technology is simple and inexpensive
> and so most
bargain
> > brands can be as good as the name brands.  I'll
> see if I can
locate the
> > portion of the book and send it to you tonight.
> >
>
> Yes.
No moving parts.  There's a printed pattern
> on two printed circuit
>
boards.  A sensor detects the change of capacitance as
> the two parts move
>
relative to each other.  With standard PCB fabrication
> methods, you can get
> something like a tenth (one 10,000th of an inch) accuracy
> in 6" board.
Some
> apparently use induction, but the idea is the same.
> The circuit
involved is
> about a second semester project these days.  Only
> precision
machining the
> caliper needs is to make sure it runs square.  A cheap
>
digital caliper
> (assuming it's not bent or something) is more accurate than
> an expensive
> non-digital one.  Progress is cool, sometimes.
>
> --
>
David Scheidt
> dmscheidt at gmail.com
>
_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as doug at dougbraun.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
>
http://www.team.net/archive
You are subscribed as gerrybraz at cablespeed.com

Shop-talk mailing list

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk

http://www.team.net/archive

From eltonclark at gmail.com  Fri Oct 30 10:05:44 2009
From: eltonclark at gmail.com (Elton E. (Tony) Clark)
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2009 12:05:44 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Micrometers
In-Reply-To: <CC5235B18E70462CB6B31EED326C77AC@Digilink1>
References: <80544.34257.qm@web607.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<CC5235B18E70462CB6B31EED326C77AC@Digilink1>
Message-ID: <ea2385360910301005w1025518di1dc1b1f117566531@mail.gmail.com>

On Fri, Oct 30, 2009 at 8:03 AM, Gerald Brazil <gerrybraz at cablespeed.com>wrote:

> I'll second that....they are so cheap I have one in the garage and one in
> the basement......
>
> Nearly all HF tools are worth at least what you paid for them.....
>
> *Ditto that . . the HF digital calipers are so cheap and so good that I
> cut them up and mount them on my drill press and lathe for "po'mans" digital
> readout units.*

From arvidj at visi.com  Sat Oct 31 06:01:58 2009
From: arvidj at visi.com (Arvid Jedlicka)
Date: Sat, 31 Oct 2009 08:01:58 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Micrometers
References: <80544.34257.qm@web607.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com><CC5235B18E70462CB6B31EED326C77AC@Digilink1>
	<ea2385360910301005w1025518di1dc1b1f117566531@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D9793FBDFFAB4442AE88FB48BA8A5E31@behavioral.com>

Page two of the Thanksgiving flyer 
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/tabviewer/startBrowseBook.do?bookid=263&preview=&type=RET&simple= 
has the 6 inch caliper at $9.99.

>> I'll second that....they are so cheap I have one in the garage and one in
>> the basement......
>>
>> Nearly all HF tools are worth at least what you paid for them.....
>>
>> *Ditto that . . the HF digital calipers are so cheap and so good that I
>> cut them up and mount them on my drill press and lathe for "po'mans" 
>> digital
>> readout units.*

From eric at megageek.com  Sat Oct 31 07:30:23 2009
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Sat, 31 Oct 2009 10:30:23 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Micrometers
In-Reply-To: <D9793FBDFFAB4442AE88FB48BA8A5E31@behavioral.com>
Message-ID: <OF86DA4219.B792CE82-ON85257660.004F81CC-85257660.0051479F@mail.megageek.com>

OK, I have a few of these Calipers and they work great, except that the 
indicators arenbt accurate and they are non-adjustable.

Here is a link to a photo that I put on my website to define the problem 
Ibm having.

<http://www.megageek.com/photo/photoa~1.nsf/a7ffeab012bbfb5b85256eb1007ca7f6/1270fe034ea0feea85257660004f08aa?OpenDocument>

In the picture, the OD measurement of b
Ab
 should be the exact same as the 
ID measurement of b
B.b
  But they are not.  This means that as I measure a 
piston and the cylinder bore, Ibm not getting a good result (the bore is 
coming up SMALLER than the piston diameter.)

These do work great for measurements of the same ID or ID objects however.

So what I need to find is a way to make sure the calipers are b
correctb
 
before I buy them.
Any suggestions?



Moose
b
Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.b
 Ralph 
Waldo Emerson

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Oct 31 08:28:19 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 31 Oct 2009 08:28:19 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Micrometers
In-Reply-To: <OF86DA4219.B792CE82-ON85257660.004F81CC-85257660.0051479F@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <20091031152819497.CMBB9287@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> So what I need to find is a way to make sure the calipers are
> bcorrectb before I buy them.
> Any suggestions?

I already gave mine, which is to buy from a supplier that has at least some
measure of quality control.  All of the calipers I've gotten from Enco (and
I have quite a few, as I keep one by the computer and one by the lathe and
one by the workbench ...) have been accurate to within a few 'tenths' when
checked at 1" & 3" (the only gauge blocks I have).

Randall