[Shop-talk] Table saw, (it's here.)

[eric at megageek.com]

Steve, 

Thanks for the quick response.

I ran a 3 conductor line to the saw (red, black, and white) with a bare 
ground wire as well.

mechanically, I understand how I can get the 120 outlet, but I don't 
understand, if it's safe.  and if it is, how do I breaker the wire?  (do I 
use a common single breaker for 240 or do i use 2X 120 breakers?)

Also, is there a "better way" to do it (the 120 outlet after the 240, or 
the 240 after the 120?)

Thanks again for any help.

Moose
Everything I know about knots, I learned from Alexander the Great.



Steven Trovato <strovato at optonline.net> 
07/01/2009 09:06

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eric at megageek.com, shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net
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Subject
Re: [Shop-talk] Table saw, (it's here.)






Things like electric clothes dryers do this all the time.  The big 
heating coils are 240V, but the light and electronics are 120V.  It 
is easy, IF you ran a neutral when you did the wiring.  Wiring across 
the two "hot" wires gives you the 240, wiring from either one to the 
neutral gives you 120.  Now, there is also a green or bare ground, 
intended for safety only.  It used to be that appliances would 
"cheat" and use this as if it was the neutral line for minor loads 
when there was no neutral line present.  This isn't allowed 
anymore.  That's why new dryer outlets are 4 wire, and old ones are 3 
wire.  So the big question is, did you run a neutral line?

Now, for the disclaimer.  Nothing seems to generate more hostility 
than internet discussions on electrical work.  I am not an 
electrician.  I have not looked up the latest code, or anything 
specific to table saw wiring.

-Steve Trovato
strovato at optonline.net

At 05:42 AM 7/1/2009, eric at megageek.com wrote:
>So, I was wondering, is there any appropriate way to split a 120 circuit
>off of a 230 leg, and if so, how?