From jblair1948 at cox.net Tue Apr 1 05:36:29 2008 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2008 07:36:29 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Other options for metal steps In-Reply-To: <007d01c8939b$420bc260$ae10c263@ejrussell> References: Message-ID: <3.0.5.32.20080401073629.00a40800@pop.east.cox.net> At 07:42 PM 3/31/2008 -0500, Rich White wrote: >Ok, I got a yes and a no on the POR-15 for my rusty steps, thanks John and >John. >Is there a better option? > >They are way too big to powder coat! Rich, One thing about the POR15, it is expensive, about $35/qt. Plus it will not keep for a long time (say a couple of years). While if you paint it with POR you won't have to worry about it much. The POR is very hard and if you top coat it and the top coat chips or wears, I think the POR will hold up. But for a lot less money you can get a quart of Rust-o-lium or DeRusto which will do a good job protecting the metal. The only down side is that you will probably have to repaint every couple of years. But same for the top coat on the POR. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From rs1121 at earthlink.net Tue Apr 1 08:02:39 2008 From: rs1121 at earthlink.net (Ron Schmittou) Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2008 10:02:39 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Other options for metal steps In-Reply-To: <3.0.5.32.20080401073629.00a40800@pop.east.cox.net> References: <3.0.5.32.20080401073629.00a40800@pop.east.cox.net> Message-ID: <017e01c89409$6dc87790$495966b0$@net> I think you should consider the truck bed coating stuff - it's expensive also, but is designed for being in the sun / weather all the time, and heavy abrasive use. -----Original Message----- From: shop-talk-bounces+rs1121=earthlink.net at autox.team.net [mailto:shop-talk-bounces+rs1121=earthlink.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John T. Blair Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 7:36 AM To: shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Other options for metal steps At 07:42 PM 3/31/2008 -0500, Rich White wrote: >Ok, I got a yes and a no on the POR-15 for my rusty steps, thanks John and >John. >Is there a better option? > >They are way too big to powder coat! From mark at bradakis.com Tue Apr 1 20:39:54 2008 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2008 21:39:54 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] [Fot] The garage mahal In-Reply-To: <000101c8945b$96b22050$060ba8c0@TOSHIBALAPTOP> References: <000101c8945b$96b22050$060ba8c0@TOSHIBALAPTOP> Message-ID: <47F3000A.60309@bradakis.com> Another tip that may be useful. Go to your local hardware home improvement store. Head to the paint section, grab a can of spray paint, any color, any brand, whatever. Take this can to the roofing section with the shingles, tarpaper and gutters. Check out the various types of plastic gutters, see which ones fit the spray can. Buy a length of the gutter in the appropriate color with the proper hangers to go with it. Back in the garage hang the gutter in various spots to provide convenient storage trays for all the various types of spray cans one accumulates. I also have a small section over the sink to hold soap, sponges, etc. mjb. From eric at megageek.com Wed Apr 2 07:22:15 2008 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 10:22:15 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] [Fot] The garage mahal Message-ID: This is a great idea. I'll add it to the tips seciton. Note, I was able to find a hardware store going out of business and I got (for free) one of their "end cap" units that is a shelf designed to hold cans of paint. It works perfectly! Moose "We all know we're dying, And there's no sign of a parachute." Tori Amos -----shop-talk-bounces+eric=megageek.com at autox.team.net wrote: ----- To: "'Friends of Triumph'" , shop-talk at autox.team.net From: Mark J Bradakis Sent by: shop-talk-bounces+eric=megageek.com at autox.team.net Date: 04/01/2008 22:39 Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] [Fot] The garage mahal Another tip that may be useful. Go to your local hardware home improvement store. Head to the paint section, grab a can of spray paint, any color, any brand, whatever. Take this can to the roofing section with the shingles, tarpaper and gutters. Check out the various types of plastic gutters, see which ones fit the spray can. Buy a length of the gutter in the appropriate color with the proper hangers to go with it. Back in the garage hang the gutter in various spots to provide convenient storage trays for all the various types of spray cans one accumulates. I also have a small section over the sink to hold soap, sponges, etc. mjb. You are subscribed as eric at megageek.com Shop-talk mailing list http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk http://www.team.net/archive From pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com Thu Apr 3 09:28:22 2008 From: pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com (PJ McGarvey) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 12:28:22 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Automatic water shutoff valves Message-ID: Moving forward with my 2FL laundry room project, and into the plumbing. The washer is going into a pan, to which I'll add a separate drain I think, and will be protected by a automatic leak-detecting shutoff valve. Does anyone have a particular brand they like (or don't like)? PJ _________________________________________________________________ Pack up or back upuse SkyDrive to transfer files or keep extra copies. Learn how. hthttp://www.windowslive.com/skydrive/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh _skydrive_packup_042008 From jniolon at bham.rr.com Thu Apr 3 10:37:28 2008 From: jniolon at bham.rr.com (john niolon) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 12:37:28 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] HAMMER TIME !!! a hammer quiz for you bangers Message-ID: found this on www.garagejournal.com forum... pretty neat little quiz. I learned a lot about hammers.. very entertaining. john http://hammers101.blogspot.com/ The reason congressmen try so hard to get re-elected is that they would hate to have to make a living under the laws they've passed. From wmgilroy at gmail.com Fri Apr 4 23:07:48 2008 From: wmgilroy at gmail.com (William M. Gilroy) Date: Fri, 04 Apr 2008 23:07:48 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Automatic water shutoff valves In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <47F71734.9050404@gmail.com> I don't have any auto water shutoff but I think this item looks cool. http://www.plumbingsupply.com/washingmachineshutoffvalve.html PJ McGarvey wrote: > Moving forward with my 2FL laundry room project, and into the plumbing. The > washer is going into a pan, to which I'll add a separate drain I think, and > will be protected by a automatic leak-detecting shutoff valve. Does anyone > have a particular brand they like (or don't like)? From jniolon at bham.rr.com Sat Apr 5 14:59:57 2008 From: jniolon at bham.rr.com (john niolon) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 16:59:57 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Ernst socket rails Message-ID: <002301c89768$63a50050$6501a8c0@niolon> Is anyone using Ernst Mfg socket rails to hold/organize their socket collection ??? I need some measurements so I can lay out my new cabinet.. Basically need full length and width of the 4 rail set with the mounting plates in both the 18" and 13" rail lengths tia John Free your heart from hate. Free your mind from worry. Live simple, give more, expect less From mark at sccaprepared.com Wed Apr 9 14:50:28 2008 From: mark at sccaprepared.com (Mark Andy) Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2008 16:50:28 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] press brake adapter? Message-ID: Howdy, Anyone know of any other sources for a press brake adapter that fits in a standard hydraulic press? I.e. something like: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_21896_21896 Except that it shouldn't cost that much. :-) Thanks! Mark From mikey at b2systems.com Wed Apr 9 15:08:55 2008 From: mikey at b2systems.com (Mike Rambour) Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2008 14:08:55 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] press brake adapter? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <47FD3067.7040800@b2systems.com> I got mine from this guy about 2 years ago http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/10in-H-FRAME-PRESS-BRAKE-METAL-BENDER-W-LOWER-V-DIE_W0QQitemZ320237678948QQihZ011QQcategoryZ63697QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem If the link breaks up in e-mail its e-bay item 320237678948 I got a 20" one and it was less than $150 with shipping at the time, I notice his 10" is now getting up there in price, so may the 20" would be near Northern's price also. mike Mark Andy wrote: > Howdy, > > Anyone know of any other sources for a press brake adapter that fits in a > standard hydraulic press? > > I.e. something like: > > http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_21896_21896 > > Except that it shouldn't cost that much. :-) > > Thanks! > > Mark From mark at sccaprepared.com Wed Apr 9 15:39:54 2008 From: mark at sccaprepared.com (Mark Andy) Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2008 17:39:54 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] press brake adapter? In-Reply-To: <47FD3067.7040800@b2systems.com> References: <47FD3067.7040800@b2systems.com> Message-ID: Howdy, On Wed, 9 Apr 2008, Mike Rambour wrote: > I got mine from this guy about 2 years ago > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/10in-H-FRAME-PRESS-BRAKE-METAL-BENDER-W-LOWER-V-DIE_W0QQitemZ320237678948QQihZ011QQcategoryZ63697QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem > > If the link breaks up in e-mail its e-bay item 320237678948 > > I got a 20" one and it was less than $150 with shipping at the time, I > notice his 10" is now getting up there in price, so may the 20" would be > near Northern's price also. Interesting... Any chance you'd be willing to take some detailed pics and/or do some describing for me? I'm thinking I should just make one of these vs. buying one... Seems like a fairly straight forward milling/welding project. In particular I'm interested in the dimensions (and the v-angle most importantly) of the ram. Also wondering if the slide pins are just metal on metal with some grease or something more complicated. From the various descriptions I've read, the lower die is a 90 deg V, right? What's the top distance between the V legs? Thanks! Mark From dmscheidt at gmail.com Wed Apr 9 16:13:03 2008 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2008 18:13:03 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] press brake adapter? In-Reply-To: References: <47FD3067.7040800@b2systems.com> Message-ID: <2400a5d40804091513y1df5ff14ucc535a4e1f0cd9ff@mail.gmail.com> On Wed, Apr 9, 2008 at 5:39 PM, Mark Andy wrote: > Howdy, > > > On Wed, 9 Apr 2008, Mike Rambour wrote: > > I got mine from this guy about 2 years ago > > > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/10in-H-FRAME-PRESS-BRAKE-METAL-BENDER-W-LOWER-V-DIE_W0QQitemZ320237678948QQihZ011QQcategoryZ63697QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem > > > > If the link breaks up in e-mail its e-bay item 320237678948 > > > > I got a 20" one and it was less than $150 with shipping at the time, I > > notice his 10" is now getting up there in price, so may the 20" would be > > near Northern's price also. > > Interesting... > > Any chance you'd be willing to take some detailed pics and/or do some > describing for me? I'm thinking I should just make one of these vs. > buying one... Seems like a fairly straight forward milling/welding > project. > > In particular I'm interested in the dimensions (and the v-angle most > importantly) of the ram. Also wondering if the slide pins are just metal > on metal with some grease or something more complicated. From the various > descriptions I've read, the lower die is a 90 deg V, right? What's the > top distance between the V legs? > I built one a few years ago. I used 1X1 (by 3/16 thick, I think) angle for the bottom, welded to a 1/4" bar stock. The top was a 1X1 square rod. That was welded to a 1/4" bar stock, too. the dies were mounted to steel 2X4 (by 1/8 or 3/16 thick.). The frame was 1X1X1/8 square tube, with a shim between them and the bottom 2X4. This worked well enough for the one-off we built it for. I couldn't get quite 90 degree angles out of it, without suplemental use of a hamme, but htey were close. -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com From mark at sccaprepared.com Sat Apr 12 14:10:31 2008 From: mark at sccaprepared.com (Mark Andy) Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2008 16:10:31 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Snap-On balancer manual? Message-ID: Howdy, Anyone know where I could get a copy of the user manual for a Snap-On WB-240 wheel balancer? I've found a copy on Ebay for $25, but I'm hoping to find a copy for free... TIA! Mark From coles at colesnurseries.com Sun Apr 13 05:04:01 2008 From: coles at colesnurseries.com (Dan and Jenny Fest (Coles Nurseries Inc)) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 07:04:01 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Book on Steel and Fasteners Message-ID: <001c01c89d56$1521bce0$0c01a8c0@Fest> I am interested in learning more about different grades of steel and fasteners. My goal is to eventually own a milling machine and be knowledgable able which grade of steel to use and why. Also, steel additives i.e. nickel etc. and the advantages/disadvantages of each. Same with fasteners i.e. why grade 8 - advantages and disadvantages. Let me know if you have any suggestions for a book to purchase or website to visit. Thanks, Dan From cavanadd at verizon.net Sun Apr 13 13:23:01 2008 From: cavanadd at verizon.net (David C.) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 12:23:01 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Book on Steel and Fasteners In-Reply-To: <001c01c89d56$1521bce0$0c01a8c0@Fest> References: <001c01c89d56$1521bce0$0c01a8c0@Fest> Message-ID: <0JZA00IZQ3CX8F50@vms040.mailsrvcs.net> Machinery's Handbook has EVERYTHING you need. http://www.amazon.com/Machinerys-Handbook-Toolbox/dp/0831128003/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1208114376&sr=8-1 However, you don't need the latest and greatest; find a used copy an edition or two back and save quite a bit of money. A second choice would be Mark's Standard Handbook for Mechanical Engineers. I have them both, but my copy of Machinery's (24th edition) is the one that stays out in the shop. Dave C At 04:04 AM 4/13/2008, Dan and Jenny Fest (Coles Nurseries Inc) wrote: >I am interested in learning more about different grades of steel and >fasteners. My goal is to eventually own a milling machine and be knowledgable >able which grade of steel to use and why. Also, steel additives i.e. nickel >etc. and the advantages/disadvantages of each. Same with fasteners i.e. why >grade 8 - advantages and disadvantages. Let me know if you have any >suggestions for a book to purchase or website to visit. >Thanks, >Dan >_______________________________________________ >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >You are subscribed as cavanadd at verizon.net > >Shop-talk mailing list > >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk > >http://www.team.net/archive From jdrush at enter.net Sun Apr 13 20:17:31 2008 From: jdrush at enter.net (Rush) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 22:17:31 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Gambrel Roof Aesthetics? Message-ID: <4802BEBB.5070409@enter.net> My wife and I are designing our gambrel-roof barn/shed on CAD. We are using my favorite EZ joint makers, Simpson Strong-tie, so it will be hella strong. Therefore we can design the roof profile more for space and aesthetics than worrying about strength. I'd bet you've all seen barns and sheds where the gambrel roof was aesthetically unpleasing. Since we started designing this, I've noticed many that are too squat or the upper segment was too wide. In CAD we can push and pull the roof rafters any which way we want. So have you ever seen any discussion of gambrel roof aesthetics? We'd like to get the proportions right. We live near an upscale neighborhood and wouldn't want to offend. :P Jon From jamesf at groupwbench.org Sun Apr 13 20:29:28 2008 From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 22:29:28 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Gambrel Roof Aesthetics? In-Reply-To: <4802BEBB.5070409@enter.net> References: <4802BEBB.5070409@enter.net> Message-ID: <227F5946-698D-4B5D-A019-539CA2CF679F@groupwbench.org> On Apr 13, 2008, at 10:17 PM, Rush wrote: > > I'd bet you've all seen barns and sheds where the gambrel roof was > aesthetically unpleasing. Since we started designing this, I've > noticed > many that are too squat or the upper segment was too wide. In CAD > we can > push and pull the roof rafters any which way we want. So have you ever > seen any discussion of gambrel roof aesthetics? We'd like to get the > proportions right. We live near an upscale neighborhood and wouldn't > want to offend. :P > This won't be much help, but it may plant a seed. I don't like Gambrels at all, but I imagine if I had to design one, I'd start with putting a 90 degree gable on top of a Mansard. I am, however, in full support of the 1/4 circle Amityville Horror windows in the gable end ;-) jim From shiples at comcast.net Sun Apr 13 23:12:43 2008 From: shiples at comcast.net (Steve Shipley) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 22:12:43 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Book on Steel and Fasteners In-Reply-To: <0JZA00IZQ3CX8F50@vms040.mailsrvcs.net> References: <001c01c89d56$1521bce0$0c01a8c0@Fest> <001c01c89d56$1521bce0$0c01a8c0@Fest> Message-ID: <5.2.1.1.0.20080413212943.02674b50@mail.comcast.net> I took a few quarters of Precision Machining at the local trade school and Machinery's Handbook was a requirement. However, the other requirement was a textbook titled "Machine Tool Practices" http://www.amazon.com/Machine-Tool-Practices-Richard-Kibbe/dp/0131188968/ref=pd_bbs_2?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1208147670&sr=1-2 Don't know if it's the best, but buy it used and it will serve as an introduction to the trade. Machinery's Handbook is a reference work you'll eventually need but my classes included lessons in how to use Machinery's Handbook. Probably not the first book you'll want to read. The other requirement was a scientific calculator, as a beginner I only used it to calculate surface feet. As in welding, taking a class will really open your eyes. For fasteners, I'll recommend Carrol Smith's Nuts, Bolts, Fastener's and Plumbing Book. (Yes, I have the stickers!) At 12:23 PM 4/13/2008 -0700, David C. wrote: >Machinery's Handbook has EVERYTHING you need. > >http://www.amazon.com/Machinerys-Handbook-Toolbox/dp/0831128003/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1208114376&sr=8-1 > >However, you don't need the latest and greatest; find a used copy an >edition or two back and save quite a bit of money. > >A second choice would be Mark's Standard Handbook for Mechanical >Engineers. I have them both, but my copy of Machinery's (24th >edition) is the one that stays out in the shop. > >Dave C > >At 04:04 AM 4/13/2008, Dan and Jenny Fest (Coles Nurseries Inc) wrote: > >I am interested in learning more about different grades of steel and > >fasteners. My goal is to eventually own a milling machine and be > knowledgable > >able which grade of steel to use and why. Also, steel additives i.e. nickel > >etc. and the advantages/disadvantages of each. Same with fasteners i.e. why > >grade 8 - advantages and disadvantages. Let me know if you have any > >suggestions for a book to purchase or website to visit. > >Thanks, > >Dan From jblair1948 at cox.net Mon Apr 14 05:40:15 2008 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 07:40:15 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Gambrel Roof Aesthetics? In-Reply-To: <4802BEBB.5070409@enter.net> Message-ID: <3.0.5.32.20080414074015.00a5bb50@pop.east.cox.net> At 10:17 PM 4/13/2008 -0400, Rush wrote: >My wife and I are designing our gambrel-roof barn/shed on CAD.... >So have you ever seen any discussion of gambrel roof aesthetics? We'd >like to get the proportions right. We live near an upscale neighborhood >and wouldn't want to offend. Jon, I'll bet that when you get the sesthetics right you'll have the most wasted raw material. If you live in what used to be the country and the uppies have moved out there, I wouldn't worry about them. 40 years ago, where I live was all farmland. Now the suburbs have moved out to take over all that "country". People still have livestock, horses, cows, pigs, chickens & roosters. But the uppies are complaining about the noise the animals make. Go figure. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From jniolon at bham.rr.com Mon Apr 14 10:43:03 2008 From: jniolon at bham.rr.com (john niolon) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 11:43:03 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] small gearbox source needed Message-ID: <20EA2EADBFCD4BCF9D2D30FE7818A7D3@OwnerPC> I'm building a geared engine stand... heavy duty ...using 4" sch 160 pipe head with bearings on each end and a 1-9/16" solid rod that attaches to the engine mount head. I want to use a 'crank' mechanism for turning the engine.. worm gear or similar. Trying to find something affordable on the net... anyone know of a source of surplus small gear boxes or worm gear drives or have a better suggestion for one... here a link to a commercial stand with the crank... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/images/B0011O0Y4Q/ref=dp_image_text_0?ie=UTF 8&n=228013&s=hi thanks John If you are young, and not liberal, then you don't have a heart. If you are old, and not conservative, then you don't have a brain." Winston Churchill From jibjib at att.net Mon Apr 14 19:50:40 2008 From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 18:50:40 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Gambrel Roof Aesthetics? In-Reply-To: <4802BEBB.5070409@enter.net> References: <4802BEBB.5070409@enter.net> Message-ID: <003c01c89e9b$1c846fa0$cb01a8c0@HPPavilion> Jon, I don't know where you live, but if snow is a concern, consider having less roof area which will dump snow in front of your garage doors. Simple, but often overlooked. Jack -----Original Message----- From: shop-talk-bounces+jibjib=att.net at autox.team.net [mailto:shop-talk-bounces+jibjib=att.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rush Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2008 7:18 PM To: Shop Talk Subject: [Shop-talk] Gambrel Roof Aesthetics? My wife and I are designing our gambrel-roof barn/shed on CAD. We are using my favorite EZ joint makers, Simpson Strong-tie, so it will be hella strong. Therefore we can design the roof profile more for space and aesthetics than worrying about strength. I'd bet you've all seen barns and sheds where the gambrel roof was aesthetically unpleasing. Since we started designing this, I've noticed many that are too squat or the upper segment was too wide. In CAD we can push and pull the roof rafters any which way we want. So have you ever seen any discussion of gambrel roof aesthetics? We'd like to get the proportions right. We live near an upscale neighborhood and wouldn't want to offend. :P Jon You are subscribed as jibjib at att.net Shop-talk mailing list http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk http://www.team.net/archive From cavanadd at verizon.net Mon Apr 14 20:53:35 2008 From: cavanadd at verizon.net (David C.) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 19:53:35 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] small gearbox source needed In-Reply-To: <20EA2EADBFCD4BCF9D2D30FE7818A7D3@OwnerPC> References: <20EA2EADBFCD4BCF9D2D30FE7818A7D3@OwnerPC> Message-ID: <0JZC001G9IFY7QT0@vms173005.mailsrvcs.net> www.surpluscenter.com At 09:43 AM 4/14/2008, john niolon wrote: >I'm building a geared engine stand... heavy duty ...using 4" sch 160 pipe >head with bearings on each end and a 1-9/16" solid rod that attaches to the >engine mount head. I want to use a 'crank' mechanism for turning the engine.. >worm gear or similar. Trying to find something affordable on the net... >anyone know of a source of surplus small gear boxes or worm gear drives or >have a better suggestion for one... > >here a link to a commercial stand with the crank... > > >http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/images/B0011O0Y4Q/ref=dp_image_text_0?ie=UTF >8&n=228013&s=hi > > >thanks >John > >If you are young, and not liberal, then you don't have a heart. If you are >old, and not conservative, then you don't have a brain." Winston Churchill >_______________________________________________ >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >You are subscribed as cavanadd at verizon.net > >Shop-talk mailing list > >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk > >http://www.team.net/archive From 57healey at gmail.com Tue Apr 15 11:47:10 2008 From: 57healey at gmail.com (Patton Dickson) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 12:47:10 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Staining a new wood fence Message-ID: <743b1e2f0804151047g7b8582c2uf7c136a0d3ccb63d@mail.gmail.com> We got hit by the windstorm that hit north Texas last week and lost several fence panels and posts. The fence was the original that came with the house, so despite it not being in the budget, we are electing to replace the whole thing. To save $$$ we are going to stain the pressure treated pine fence ourselves. Any suggestions or reccomemdation as to best method (brush on or spray) and brands of stain. Thanks Patton -- Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX 1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out." From mikey at b2systems.com Tue Apr 15 11:50:58 2008 From: mikey at b2systems.com (Mike Rambour) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 10:50:58 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] resistance (tong type) spot welders Message-ID: <4804EB02.5050509@b2systems.com> I am venturing into what is for me a new world and building up lots of sheet metal parts for my car. I have a TIG and I can drill holes in one sheet and weld them together to make it look like a spot weld but nothing beats the speed of spot welding when you have hundreds to do. By the way the cosmetics of making it look like a spot weld have nothing to do with the project, I just need to hold many pieces of sheet metal together and spot welding seems the fastest (and best?). I have considered rivets but for me that would be strictly a way to hold it together until welded. I was looking at a tong type resistance spot welder, I found that miller, hobart (lincoln ?) are around $500-600 and then HarborFreight is at $150. I normally avoid HF for anything with a electric plug or moving parts but this is for a one time job, I really don't expect to be doing this much sheet metal work again (firewall, trans. tunnel, some flooring, inner fender wells, basically I have all the outside parts of the body). E-bay has a bunch of no-names at $200 and much to my surprise Eastwood has one for $480 which is less than the big names, very surprised that EW is less than someone else on anything, I get free shipping with EW though so that saves me money. Found nothing Craigslist for several months now. Finishing up the wood work and need to get started on the sheet metal within the next few weeks or less. Looking for suggestions, will the HF unit work for one job ? will I be sorry I got it ? and lastly, I have both a MIG and a TIG is there a better system that I should look into ? I really like the tongs idea to hold the thing together and spot weld it, seems like it would make my life so much easier but the length of the tongs will be my limiting factor so since I will have to resort to TIG'ing in some areas anyway maybe I should consider something else. As I said, this is my first fabrication project of this scale, usually I just restore :) mike From jniolon at bham.rr.com Tue Apr 15 11:51:45 2008 From: jniolon at bham.rr.com (john niolon) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 12:51:45 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Staining a new wood fence In-Reply-To: <743b1e2f0804151047g7b8582c2uf7c136a0d3ccb63d@mail.gmail.com> References: <743b1e2f0804151047g7b8582c2uf7c136a0d3ccb63d@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <5324E81167DA4BA7B5918003A0595679@OwnerPC> are you going to build from scratch or buy the prebuilt sections ??? john > We got hit by the windstorm that hit north Texas last week and lost > several > fence panels and posts. The fence was the original that came with the > house, so despite it not being in the budget, we are electing to replace > the > whole thing. > > To save $$$ we are going to stain the pressure treated pine fence > ourselves. Any suggestions or reccomemdation as to best method (brush on > or > spray) and brands of stain. > > Thanks > Patton > > -- From dmscheidt at gmail.com Tue Apr 15 11:59:48 2008 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 13:59:48 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] resistance (tong type) spot welders In-Reply-To: <4804EB02.5050509@b2systems.com> References: <4804EB02.5050509@b2systems.com> Message-ID: <2400a5d40804151059p58470253uadcb7f6272afa931@mail.gmail.com> On Tue, Apr 15, 2008 at 1:50 PM, Mike Rambour wrote: > > the body). E-bay has a bunch of no-names at $200 and much to my > surprise Eastwood has one for $480 which is less than the big names, > very surprised that EW is less than someone else on anything, I get free > shipping with EW though so that saves me money. Found nothing > Craigslist for several months now. Finishing up the wood work and need The eastwood is made by a company "renowned for quality welding equipment" that I've never heard of, nor can find with google. I suspect it's the same product sold by HF, for three times as much money. It sure looks like it. -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com From mikey at b2systems.com Tue Apr 15 12:15:25 2008 From: mikey at b2systems.com (Mike Rambour) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 11:15:25 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] resistance (tong type) spot welders In-Reply-To: <2400a5d40804151059p58470253uadcb7f6272afa931@mail.gmail.com> References: <4804EB02.5050509@b2systems.com> <2400a5d40804151059p58470253uadcb7f6272afa931@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4804F0BD.1070000@b2systems.com> I was going to say "you have never heard of Miller?" but thought I should re-read the Eastwood ad before I said that, you are right, I have never heard of Millweld either and a quick google search says I am not the only one, ok scratch that one. Back to name brand or HF. By the way another off-list reply was since I have a MIG why not use that ? good question but my friends tell me that with the way I use MIG on thin sheet metal I will never need a plasma cutter, nuff said :) Proud of my TIG abilities and I can do sheet metal with TIG but I have never mastered MIG on thin sheet metal (or should I say not YET mastered) and TIG is slow. mike David Scheidt wrote: > On Tue, Apr 15, 2008 at 1:50 PM, Mike Rambour wrote: > >> the body). E-bay has a bunch of no-names at $200 and much to my >> surprise Eastwood has one for $480 which is less than the big names, >> very surprised that EW is less than someone else on anything, I get free >> shipping with EW though so that saves me money. Found nothing >> Craigslist for several months now. Finishing up the wood work and need >> > > The eastwood is made by a company "renowned for quality welding > equipment" that I've never heard of, nor can find with google. I > suspect it's the same product sold by HF, for three times as much > money. It sure looks like it. From 57healey at gmail.com Tue Apr 15 12:23:23 2008 From: 57healey at gmail.com (Patton Dickson) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 13:23:23 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Staining a new wood fence In-Reply-To: <5324E81167DA4BA7B5918003A0595679@OwnerPC> References: <743b1e2f0804151047g7b8582c2uf7c136a0d3ccb63d@mail.gmail.com> <5324E81167DA4BA7B5918003A0595679@OwnerPC> Message-ID: <743b1e2f0804151123k22c70f5ahf8ebc90a580f9805@mail.gmail.com> >From scratch, 8ft side by side with a kicker board On Tue, Apr 15, 2008 at 12:51 PM, john niolon wrote: > are you going to build from scratch or buy the prebuilt sections ??? > > john > > > -- > Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX > 1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out." From jniolon at bham.rr.com Tue Apr 15 12:29:51 2008 From: jniolon at bham.rr.com (john niolon) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 13:29:51 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Staining a new wood fence In-Reply-To: <743b1e2f0804151123k22c70f5ahf8ebc90a580f9805@mail.gmail.com> References: <743b1e2f0804151047g7b8582c2uf7c136a0d3ccb63d@mail.gmail.com> <5324E81167DA4BA7B5918003A0595679@OwnerPC> <743b1e2f0804151123k22c70f5ahf8ebc90a580f9805@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <127E2CAFE0824037B699F22C341CFBDA@OwnerPC> if'n it were me... I'd do all the raw materials first with a roller or spray coat or two... then after the fence was erected, I'd go back over the cut ends and then give it a light 2nd spray coat... john ----- Original Message ----- From: Patton Dickson To: john niolon Cc: shop-talk Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2008 1:23 PM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Staining a new wood fence From scratch, 8ft side by side with a kicker board On Tue, Apr 15, 2008 at 12:51 PM, john niolon wrote: are you going to build from scratch or buy the prebuilt sections ??? john -- Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX 1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out." From 57healey at gmail.com Tue Apr 15 12:49:28 2008 From: 57healey at gmail.com (Patton Dickson) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 13:49:28 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Staining a new wood fence In-Reply-To: <127E2CAFE0824037B699F22C341CFBDA@OwnerPC> References: <743b1e2f0804151047g7b8582c2uf7c136a0d3ccb63d@mail.gmail.com> <5324E81167DA4BA7B5918003A0595679@OwnerPC> <743b1e2f0804151123k22c70f5ahf8ebc90a580f9805@mail.gmail.com> <127E2CAFE0824037B699F22C341CFBDA@OwnerPC> Message-ID: <743b1e2f0804151149r174ac964m9de9c74397948bd9@mail.gmail.com> I won't have the chance to do that before it's put up or I would do that. The guys are removing the old fence remains and setting the posts today. They will build the fence Thursday. It's only 118 ft, so it's not that big of a job. Staining before building would certainly be the best way to ensure coverage (short of somehow dipping them). We got lucky that we called first thing in the morning after the damage and had a guy (he built our pergolas). About 1 in 7 in my neighborhood alone lost panels, and most of my neighbors haven't been able to even get anyone out to do estimates yet. I hadn't thought about a roller. That should work on the outside (without the rails and posts). On Tue, Apr 15, 2008 at 1:29 PM, john niolon wrote: > if'n it were me... I'd do all the raw materials first with a roller or > spray coat or two... then after the fence was erected, I'd go back over the > cut ends and then give it a light 2nd spray coat... > > john > > > -- > Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX > 1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out." From ejrussell at mebtel.net Tue Apr 15 14:45:28 2008 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 16:45:28 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] resistance (tong type) spot welders References: <4804EB02.5050509@b2systems.com> Message-ID: <002e01c89f3a$392ae090$ae10c263@ejrussell> I bought the H-F unit to spot weld on the sills & pillars for my MGA. It works adequately for my purpose. I made a few test welds using scraps of sheet metal then tested them to destruction. They were hard enough to destroy to satisfy me. BTW, I also used 'weld through' primer between the pieces. It does burn away the primer in the heat affected zone but didn't seem to adversely affect the spot welds. Keep in mind the unit is quite heavy - a factor if you must contort into odd positions or make long reaches to make the welds. Also, the sheet metal should fit together well in order to make good spot welds. Don't use the tong's clamping force to draw the parts into contact. H-F does sell a set of 'extended reach' tongs. They are not available in the retail stores though. And now I can't find them on their web page. Where are you in cyberspace? You are welcome to borrow mine but it is probably not worth shipping vs buying one on sale at H-F. Eric Russell Mebane, NC http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Rambour" > > I was looking at a tong type resistance spot welder, > > Looking for suggestions, will the HF unit work for one job ? will I > be > sorry I got it ? From mikey at b2systems.com Tue Apr 15 15:56:02 2008 From: mikey at b2systems.com (Mike Rambour) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 14:56:02 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] resistance (tong type) spot welders In-Reply-To: <002e01c89f3a$392ae090$ae10c263@ejrussell> References: <4804EB02.5050509@b2systems.com> <002e01c89f3a$392ae090$ae10c263@ejrussell> Message-ID: <48052472.3020006@b2systems.com> Eric, Perfect, thank you for the response, its what I was hoping for. I was hoping someone here had actually used the HF one, sounds like it will work good enough for me. I am in Santa Barbara, Calif. and thanks for the offer of the loan, bet that once I get all the sheet metal bent and in place I only need the welder for 3 or 4 days but you are right, shipping it will cost more than buying one and having it for other uses in the future. Oh and since I was asked why don't I buy the firewall and floor panels with the quote "since they are made for most cars". I am putting together a 1934 Singer Le Mans, you don't call too many people and buy those parts. The original firewall was a mixture of wood and aluminum and the trans tunnel was made of "I sure don't know", the floor is just plywood. I don't have most of those parts so I am building a proper firewall with no flammable wood and then a nice trans tunnel, I will still use plywood for the floors. I had hoped to get to the UK this year for Singer national so I could take LOTS of pics since I have not seen another one of these here in the U.S. but I wont get there this year and don't want to wait anymore, so I will guess it best as I can and no one in the U.S. will know its wrong anyway (this list excepted of course). mike Eric J Russell wrote: > I bought the H-F unit to spot weld on the sills & pillars for my MGA. > > It works adequately for my purpose. I made a few test welds using > scraps of sheet metal then tested them to destruction. They were hard > enough to destroy to satisfy me. BTW, I also used 'weld through' > primer between the pieces. It does burn away the primer in the heat > affected zone but didn't seem to adversely affect the spot welds. Keep > in mind the unit is quite heavy - a factor if you must contort into > odd positions or make long reaches to make the welds. Also, the sheet > metal should fit together well in order to make good spot welds. Don't > use the tong's clamping force to draw the parts into contact. > > H-F does sell a set of 'extended reach' tongs. They are not available > in the retail stores though. And now I can't find them on their web page. > > Where are you in cyberspace? You are welcome to borrow mine but it is > probably not worth shipping vs buying one on sale at H-F. > > Eric Russell > Mebane, NC > http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Rambour" >> >> I was looking at a tong type resistance spot welder, >> >> Looking for suggestions, will the HF unit work for one job ? will I be >> sorry I got it ? From 57healey at gmail.com Tue Apr 15 16:03:01 2008 From: 57healey at gmail.com (Patton Dickson) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 17:03:01 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] resistance (tong type) spot welders In-Reply-To: <48052472.3020006@b2systems.com> References: <4804EB02.5050509@b2systems.com> <002e01c89f3a$392ae090$ae10c263@ejrussell> <48052472.3020006@b2systems.com> Message-ID: <743b1e2f0804151503h1b331df7r767c4363f359548e@mail.gmail.com> I hadn't seen one of those before, a quick Google brought up these pictures http://www.classicargarage.com/english/garages/altena/demo/singer-demo.htm I look forward to seeing pics of yours in the future, great looking cars! On Tue, Apr 15, 2008 at 4:56 PM, Mike Rambour wrote: > > > Oh and since I was asked why don't I buy the firewall and floor panels > with the quote "since they are made for most cars". I am putting > together a 1934 Singer Le Mans, you don't call too many people and buy > those parts. -- Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX 1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out." From mikey at b2systems.com Tue Apr 15 16:50:50 2008 From: mikey at b2systems.com (Mike Rambour) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 15:50:50 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] resistance (tong type) spot welders In-Reply-To: <743b1e2f0804151503h1b331df7r767c4363f359548e@mail.gmail.com> References: <4804EB02.5050509@b2systems.com> <002e01c89f3a$392ae090$ae10c263@ejrussell> <48052472.3020006@b2systems.com> <743b1e2f0804151503h1b331df7r767c4363f359548e@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4805314A.8070402@b2systems.com> Never seen a Singer before ? wow, I just assumed everyone had one in their garage. This is my 34 1.5 Litre http://singer.rambour.com/4str/index.html And this is the 34 I am actually working on at the moment, I will be taking patterns for everything from the bigger 1.5 car. The 1.5 is quite a bit bigger than the 4cylinder car so while I can use the 1.5 as the pattern everything has to be sized back. Luckily the 1.5 is very complete. For the link below click on "The Body Work" and also the sub-link under that "The Cowl" to see the current state of the car. http://ayw709.rambour.com/ The one you sent the link to is a Special Speed, same frame/chassis as my 4cyl. car above, just a nicer body style and a counter-balanced speed motor. That is the motor with the reliable crankshaft, not like the broken one that was in my car. Because its the same chassis, some of them have been converted to boat tail Special Speed but I am keeping mine as original as possible. Ok, ok, I am switching motors BUT I HAVE SINCE I wrote that website found a correct and original motor. I have purchased new front/rear fenders along with a new grill shell and front/rear aprons from someone in the U.K. who actually had the things brand new, but he does not have the interior parts like firewall, etc. that I am missing, that is why the welder questions so I can start on that. My rather ambitious goal is driveable by xmas, not finished but driveable and with the state of the drivetrain I think that is possible depending on my much wood work I have to do. mike Patton Dickson wrote: > I hadn't seen one of those before, a quick Google brought up these > pictures > > http://www.classicargarage.com/english/garages/altena/demo/singer-demo.htm > > > I look forward to seeing pics of yours in the future, great looking cars! > > > On Tue, Apr 15, 2008 at 4:56 PM, Mike Rambour > wrote: > > > Oh and since I was asked why don't I buy the firewall and floor > panels > with the quote "since they are made for most cars". I am putting > together a 1934 Singer Le Mans, you don't call too many people and buy > those parts. > > > -- > Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX > 1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out." From doug at dougbraun.com Tue Apr 15 17:10:24 2008 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 16:10:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] resistance (tong type) spot welders In-Reply-To: <4804F0BD.1070000@b2systems.com> Message-ID: <731528.93293.qm@web609.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Are you saying that you find TIG easier than MIG? I always thought that TIG was the hardest. If it's not really that hard, I might start saving up for one... I have just finished MIG welding a bunch of patch panels on my '31 Ford. It was rather tricky welding new steel to old, because the old stuff had occasional rust pits and thin spots that could suddenly blow though. Doug --- Mike Rambour wrote: > Proud of my TIG abilities and I can do sheet metal > with TIG but I have > never mastered MIG on thin sheet metal (or should I > say not YET > mastered) and TIG is slow. > > mike From mikey at b2systems.com Tue Apr 15 17:32:55 2008 From: mikey at b2systems.com (Mike Rambour) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 16:32:55 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] resistance (tong type) spot welders In-Reply-To: <731528.93293.qm@web609.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <731528.93293.qm@web609.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <48053B27.6080108@b2systems.com> Doug, For me yes TIG is easier but it is easier for several reasons. First, I learned to weld with oxy/acet torch and TIG is similar so I am used to it. I went to MIG and failed miserably on sheet metal, could weld all day long on thick stuff but sheet metal kept blowing through. Second and the real reason why for me TIG is easier is that last year I went to Cleveland and took the Lincoln Motorsports class ( http://www.lincolnelectric.com/focus/motorsports/school/school.asp ) and really learned how to TIG there. The Basic class is a little bit of everything but the instructors will let you skip days like for me, I did my requisite hour or 2 on MIG day and spent the rest of the day with TIG, days 3 and 4 I spent with the TIG and alloys, I only did the MIG when I needed to because the instructor required me to ( about 2 hours on day 2, and 1 hour on each day after that). So with all that time, yes TIG is way easier for me. Why did I spend the time on TIG ? I now know that I went there with a "bad attitude" towards MIG and did not want to learn it, I had such bad experiences with MIG and sheet metal in the past that I just did not want to, I made a mistake, nothing wrong with MIG I know that now. But I am super happy with my TIG and that class was AWESOME ! Best use of frequent flyer miles I have ever used, I have very often considered going back for the advanced class. So which is better ? I don't know, I guess it depends on what you are doing and your budget, MIG sure is cheaper. For me its TIG all the way, the only reason I still have the MIG is for speed when doing thick stuff like work I did on a friends trailer recently, TIG would have done it but MIG was fast, besides I hate selling tools :) mike Doug Braun wrote: > Are you saying that you find TIG easier than MIG? > I always thought that TIG was the hardest. If it's > not really that hard, I might start saving up for > one... > > I have just finished MIG welding a bunch of patch > panels on my '31 Ford. It was rather tricky > welding new steel to old, because the old stuff had > occasional rust pits and thin spots that could > suddenly blow though. > > Doug > > --- Mike Rambour wrote: > > >> Proud of my TIG abilities and I can do sheet metal >> with TIG but I have >> never mastered MIG on thin sheet metal (or should I >> say not YET >> mastered) and TIG is slow. >> >> mike From jblair1948 at cox.net Tue Apr 15 19:12:48 2008 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 21:12:48 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] resistance (tong type) spot welders In-Reply-To: <48053B27.6080108@b2systems.com> References: <731528.93293.qm@web609.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <731528.93293.qm@web609.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3.0.5.32.20080415211248.00a749b0@pop.east.cox.net> At 04:32 PM 4/15/2008 -0700, Mike Rambour wrote: > For me yes TIG is easier but it is easier for several reasons. First, >I learned to weld with oxy/acet torch and TIG is similar so I am used to >it. I went to MIG and failed miserably on sheet metal, could weld all >day long on thick stuff but sheet metal kept blowing through.... Mike, I went to the local community college and took a MIG class. I've had a Lincoln SP100 MIG welder for years but wanted to get some help with t echnique and see if I could learn some new tricks. However, the welders we had in class where BIG Hobart units and we were using .043 wire. Mostly we did large plate 1/16" and up. About the end of the class, we did some sheet metal. I could NEVER do it, I kept blowing through. But at home I don't have any problems. I think partially because I use a lot thinner wire (.023) instead of the .043. The .023 won't sustain as much current, consiquently less heat. Yes I can crank my welder up and sit in one spot and blow holes in the sheet metal, but I can also weld it. So my point here, is that you may have been using the wrong size wire in the MIG for the size sheet metal you were trying to weld. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From bk13 at earthlink.net Tue Apr 15 22:36:42 2008 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 21:36:42 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] resistance (tong type) spot welders In-Reply-To: <4804EB02.5050509@b2systems.com> References: <4804EB02.5050509@b2systems.com> Message-ID: <4805825A.6070009@earthlink.net> Mike - While it isn't as fun as doing it yourself, you might want to just consider paying someone to do it for you. Do the prep and have it ready and have a pro show up with his equipment to finish it off. I did this with my differential mount repair on my TR6 when I lived in an apartment with a garage without power. With his generator powered welder, he spent 30 minutes on his back under the car welding above him. It cost me $60, the minimum charge about 10 years ago. Since it is a one time job, the charge could be less than the cost of even the HF welder. Brian From mikey at b2systems.com Wed Apr 16 00:13:57 2008 From: mikey at b2systems.com (Mike Rambour) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 23:13:57 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] resistance (tong type) spot welders In-Reply-To: <4805825A.6070009@earthlink.net> References: <4804EB02.5050509@b2systems.com> <4805825A.6070009@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <48059925.5030506@b2systems.com> no thanks for a wide variety of reasons. I think the first one is there is no one in town that I know would/could do this (Santa Barbara), I would have to take the car to Los Angeles or like that to find someone and I don't know how I would even find them. Its not a Ford or Chevy that just about anyone could work on and know what they are doing. Although I readily and quickly admit that its just a firewall and a pro will do a better looking job and most likely a better job overall as well, it won't be just the way I want it, warts and all but it would be better. I just don't know who I would trust do the job. Long story short, a good friend had a destroyed by a well meaning mechanic who assumed since he could put together a Ford he could put together a Ferrari motor, he charged a lot and within 2 months the owner had to take his Dino to someone else and pay all over. I learned my lesson, if its not a Ford or Chevy its not common enough for the average person to know about it. I have been helping a professional restoration shop with advice/information on a 33 Singer and its shocking how little they know and how much they are charging the owner (they are in another state so I can't take my car there). Second reason is I get to buy tools :) And lastly, I get to say I did it myself when I am finished. Mike (looking forward to learning how to do this stuff) Brian Kemp wrote: > Mike - While it isn't as fun as doing it yourself, you might want to > just consider paying someone to do it for you. Do the prep and have > it ready and have a pro show up with his equipment to finish it off. > I did this with my differential mount repair on my TR6 when I lived in > an apartment with a garage without power. With his generator powered > welder, he spent 30 minutes on his back under the car welding above > him. It cost me $60, the minimum charge about 10 years ago. Since > it is a one time job, the charge could be less than the cost of even > the HF welder. > > Brian From dhlocker at comcast.net Sat Apr 19 18:12:41 2008 From: dhlocker at comcast.net (Donald H Locker) Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2008 20:12:41 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] resistance (tong type) spot welders In-Reply-To: <48053B27.6080108@b2systems.com> References: <731528.93293.qm@web609.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <48053B27.6080108@b2systems.com> Message-ID: <480A8A79.6040403@comcast.net> Hi, Mike. Trick (if I remember correctly) with MIG is to remember that voltage equates to penetration. If you are penetrating too much, drop the voltage back and see if the process is less like the plasma cutter you mentioned earlier. I _strongly_ recommend a class of some sort. I went to Washtenaw Community College and took a [6-weekend, I think] course in welding for auto restoration which was worth much more than I paid. I still need to practice more, but the class was the best investment I ever made. Period. HTH, Donald. Mike Rambour wrote: > Doug, > > For me yes TIG is easier but it is easier for several reasons. First, > I learned to weld with oxy/acet torch and TIG is similar so I am used to > it. I went to MIG and failed miserably on sheet metal, could weld all > day long on thick stuff but sheet metal kept blowing through. > [snip] From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Apr 19 20:01:11 2008 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2008 19:01:11 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] resistance (tong type) spot welders In-Reply-To: <480A8A79.6040403@comcast.net> References: <731528.93293.qm@web609.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <48053B27.6080108@b2systems.com> <480A8A79.6040403@comcast.net> Message-ID: <480AA3E7.50108@comcast.net> Wire speed is significant too and I believe it determines the amount of energy (heat) applied to the metal. Here's a useful site: http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/ bs Donald H Locker wrote: Hi, Mike. Trick (if I remember correctly) with MIG is to remember that voltage equates to penetration. If you are penetrating too much, drop the voltage back and see if the process is less like the plasma cutter you mentioned earlier. I _strongly_ recommend a class of some sort. I went to Washtenaw Community College and took a [6-weekend, I think] course in welding for auto restoration which was worth much more than I paid. I still need to practice more, but the class was the best investment I ever made. Period. HTH, Donald. Mike Rambour wrote: Doug, For me yes TIG is easier but it is easier for several reasons. First, I learned to weld with oxy/acet torch and TIG is similar so I am used to it. I went to MIG and failed miserably on sheet metal, could weld all day long on thick stuff but sheet metal kept blowing through. *************************************************************** Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M *************************************************************** From parkanzky at gmail.com Mon Apr 21 07:34:32 2008 From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 09:34:32 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel Message-ID: I did a quick search of the archives and see that this hasn't been covered in a bit more than 4 years. I just bought my first real compressor and now I want to get a hose reel so I'm not constantly tripping over the crappy red Craftsman air hose I've had forever. I have a three car attached garage. There is a single bay on the left and a 2-car on the right as you look at the house from the street. I have a lift in the left side of the 2-car portion (sort of the middle of the garage) and my roller cabinet is in front of the lift. I've installed the compressor against the back wall (opposite the doors) between the 2-car and 1-car bays (A few feet to the left of the roller cabinet). I want a hose reel, because I need a new hose anyway and this way I will be less likely to leave it laying in a pile in the corner. In reading the archives I see that one lister put his hose reel ~7' off the ground on the wall and then attached a 5' whip to make it easier to reach. I like that idea and I'm probably going to copy it. I keep seeing Legacy autowinding reels. I'm leaning toward this one: http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?mpe_id=12075&cm_cr=No+Campaign-_-Web+Activity-_-Cross+Sell+Up+Sell-_-ProductDetail_Espot1-_-Levelwind+Retractable+Hose+Reel+for+Air+with+3%2F8+in+ID+x+75+ft+Hose&catalogId=10001&productId=35435&evtype=CpgnClick&intv_id=15001&langId=-1&storeId=10551&ddkey=http:ClickInfo That's enough hose that I could easily do anything I want in the shop and have plenty of reserve to pull it out into the driveway to air up the tires of something parked in front of the garage. Does anybody know anything about these reels? Sears seems to sell a very similar Legacy reel for $10 more. If the Shop-talk consensus is that this is the one to have I will try to be a bit patient and wait for one of them to go on sale. Thanks, -Paul From dmscheidt at gmail.com Mon Apr 21 07:50:54 2008 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 09:50:54 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2400a5d40804210650i130779d5y9d796b8b0b3c8447@mail.gmail.com> On Mon, Apr 21, 2008 at 9:34 AM, Paul Parkanzky wrote: > I did a quick search of the archives and see that this hasn't been > covered in a bit more than 4 years. I just bought my first real > compressor and now I want to get a hose reel so I'm not constantly > tripping over the crappy red Craftsman air hose I've had forever. > I have no opinion about that hose reel. I'll ask, instead, have you ever used one? I can't stand them. The hose is always retracting, which is a pain. I'd much rather have a short hose. With your garage, even a couple fixed points would let you use a 20 or 25 foot hose, which is short enough that you can unplug it and coil it up neatly. -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com From parkanzky at gmail.com Mon Apr 21 08:05:04 2008 From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 10:05:04 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel In-Reply-To: <2400a5d40804210650i130779d5y9d796b8b0b3c8447@mail.gmail.com> References: <2400a5d40804210650i130779d5y9d796b8b0b3c8447@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: My father in law has one in his (glorious) shop. I've used it quite a bit and I haven't experienced the hose retracting when I didn't want it to. We just pull out an extra few feet and find a locking point and it stays there until we give it a good tug and it reels back in. This is great compared to the 100' oxygen/acetylene hose that always end up in a big pile next to the tanks when we're done using them. I'll probably try to find him a reel for that for Christmas this year. A couple things I've noticed since doing a bit more research. Amazon.com has the 100ft version of the Levelwind for $120 with free shipping. This sounds like a great deal to me, but I notice that the hose on all of these Legacy reels is PVC, which I think is what gets stiff in the winter. Will I regret not finding one with rubber hose? I hope to have my garage heated by the next winter, but that project could slip if the budget doesn't allow it. -Paul On Mon, Apr 21, 2008 at 9:50 AM, David Scheidt wrote: > > I have no opinion about that hose reel. I'll ask, instead, have you > ever used one? I can't stand them. The hose is always retracting, > which is a pain. I'd much rather have a short hose. With your > garage, even a couple fixed points would let you use a 20 or 25 foot > hose, which is short enough that you can unplug it and coil it up > neatly. > > > -- > David Scheidt > dmscheidt at gmail.com From doug at dougbraun.com Mon Apr 21 08:12:21 2008 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 07:12:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <912672.1879.qm@web612.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I couple of years ago I bought one of those generic Chinese retracting reels (with 50' hose) from a swap meet vendor. They were normally about $75 at the time, but he was getting ready to pack up, so I got it for only $60. It is surprisingly well-made, it has worked fine, and it was $60 well spent. It's wonderful not having to wrestle with a loose hose. (I also have my extension cord and work light on retractable reels.) I mounted it at waist height near the middle of a side wall, mostly because that's where there was space, and there was no worthwhile way to put it overhead. Doug From doug at dougbraun.com Mon Apr 21 08:14:42 2008 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 07:14:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <469557.45428.qm@web605.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Yes, get a rubber hose. PVC will tangle and kink if it is cold. Rubber never does. It will always lay flat on the floor instead of acting like a giant slinky. Doug --- Paul Parkanzky wrote: Will I regret not finding one > with rubber hose? From hillman at planet-torque.com Mon Apr 21 11:23:54 2008 From: hillman at planet-torque.com (David Hillman) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 13:23:54 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Coleman Pressure Washer, Cutting Out Message-ID: <20080421131445.W64802@itonami.pair.com> My wife borrowed her dad's pressure washer yesterday, to clean our patio, and it worked great except that it kept dying and needing to be restarted. It's only a year old, and has been used less than half-a-dozen times. When it's running, it's great, but every 5-15 minutes, it misses once or twice and then stalls. To restart it, you have to choke it completely, but when you do, it starts back up. Spark plug is in great shape, and tan. Air filter is clean. Owner's manual doesn't mention any other adjustments except for a fuel filter, that I didn't check yet. Also, this happens when connected to other water sources. The manual does mention that excessive pressure at the pump will cause it to shut down, and it seems like this may be what is happening. If you restart it quickly, it will usually only run 20 seconds before dying again. However, if you let it sit for a few minutes, it'll run for 5-10. There is an output pressure adjustment that we played with, but that had no effect on the symptom ( did change the pressure, though ). We used an array of tips, with no change, either. Any ideas on how to get this thing to run consistently, or what's wrong with it? Thanks. -- David Hillman From jamesf at groupwbench.org Mon Apr 21 11:41:47 2008 From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 13:41:47 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Coleman Pressure Washer, Cutting Out In-Reply-To: <20080421131445.W64802@itonami.pair.com> References: <20080421131445.W64802@itonami.pair.com> Message-ID: On Apr 21, 2008, at 1:23 PM, David Hillman wrote: > > > The manual does mention that excessive pressure at the pump > will cause > it to shut down, and it seems like this may be what is happening. Are they on a well? Could the excessive pressure be comeing from the expansion tank filling? > If you > restart it quickly, it will usually only run 20 seconds before dying > again. However, if you let it sit for a few minutes, it'll run for > 5-10. > This seems indicative of a fuel filter being clogged. jim From BSHolden at aol.com Mon Apr 21 11:55:38 2008 From: BSHolden at aol.com (BSHolden at aol.com) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 13:55:38 EDT Subject: [Shop-talk] Coleman Pressure Washer, Cutting Out Message-ID: Sounds like the fuel cap vent is plugged. Bart ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- In a message dated 4/21/2008 12:37:07 P.M. Central Daylight Time, hillman at planet-torque.com writes: When it's running, it's great, but every 5-15 minutes, it misses once or twice and then stalls. To restart it, you have to choke it completely, but when you do, it starts back up. **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From hillman at planet-torque.com Mon Apr 21 11:56:42 2008 From: hillman at planet-torque.com (David Hillman) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 13:56:42 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Coleman Pressure Washer, Cutting Out In-Reply-To: References: <20080421131445.W64802@itonami.pair.com> Message-ID: <20080421135218.J64802@itonami.pair.com> On Mon, 21 Apr 2008, Jim Franklin wrote: > Are they on a well? Could the excessive pressure be comeing from the > expansion tank filling? No, municipal water at both houses ( my in-laws live two doors down the street, ). > This seems indicative of a fuel filter being clogged. I hope so. I arrived home half-way through the patio-scrubbing operation, by which time it was too hot to check the fuel filter. The machine has only had a couple gallons of gas run through it, though. I don't know where that much debris would've come from. -- David Hillman From rbeels at yahoo.com Mon Apr 21 11:58:00 2008 From: rbeels at yahoo.com (Richard Beels) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 13:58:00 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.2.20080421135139.03cfd008@yahoo.com> I have 2 reels in my garage, one way up high in the back and one about 5 feet off the floor near the doors (use outside as well). I'm going to add a third reel for the woodshop this summer if I get around to it. After years of "giant slinkys" and tripping over cords, I'd never go back. The most important thing with hose is to make sure you have a large enough ID for the work you're doing. And you're never going to need less air in the future so just go 3/8" from the get-go. 1/4" fittings will make just about anything miserable. And make sure the winder has a good locking mechanism so you're not always fighting the retractor trying to tug the tool out of your hands. And oversize the main tubing that feeds the reel, you don't want to restrict the airflow. Oh, and put in a drop separate from the reel so you can plug a hose in directly for those days you need to do something out of reach of the reel... At 4/21/2008 at 09:34, Shakespearean monkeys danced on Paul Parkanzky's keyboard and said: >I did a quick search of the archives and see that this hasn't been >covered in a bit more than 4 years. I just bought my first real >compressor and now I want to get a hose reel so I'm not constantly >tripping over the crappy red Craftsman air hose I've had forever. Cheers! From arvidj at visi.com Mon Apr 21 12:06:27 2008 From: arvidj at visi.com (Arvid Jedlicka) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 13:06:27 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Coleman Pressure Washer, Cutting Out References: <20080421131445.W64802@itonami.pair.com> Message-ID: <00ab01c8a3da$6b4ff7a0$80a8a8c0@dellc84024> Did you try loosening the gas cap? Maybe the vent is plugged and it will run until it runs out of air then dies. When you wait, enough air get into the tank and then it will run until it runs out of air again. My chain saws will do this on occasion. Arvid From jblair1948 at cox.net Mon Apr 21 13:12:39 2008 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 15:12:39 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <3.0.5.32.20080421151239.00a5d980@pop.east.cox.net> At 09:34 AM 4/21/2008 -0400, Paul Parkanzky wrote: >I just bought my first real compressor and now I want to get a hose reel >so I'm not constantly tripping over the crappy red Craftsman air hose I've >had forever.... >I've installed the compressor against the back wall (opposite the doors) >between the 2-car and 1-car bays (A few feet to the left of the roller >cabinet). I want a hose reel, because I need a new hose anyway and >this way I will be less likely to leave it laying in a pile in the >corner. Paul, What is your definiation of a real compressor? I have my compressor mounted at the back of my garage also. It's a 5hp 30 gal oil lubed one. I wish I a bigger one. Just like disk space, I don't care how big it is, it isn't enough. :) However, I do most of my work in the driveway in front of the garage, as it's easier to get around the car outside vs in the garage. The problem is I need over 20' just to get to the garage doors, then well over another 20' out side. So I was using 100' of air hose. As others have suggested, don't get the PVC hose. I got a 50' length of it, and it's fine in the summer, but when the temp drops to the 60s it really starts to stiffen up. Won't unravel and wont curl up when I'm done. As someone else said, go with at least 3/8" hose. An air hose is just like electrical wiring. The smaller the hose and the longer the hose the more losses you have. I stongly plumbing you shop with pipe first. I finally did that, it's great. I have a drop at the back, by the side door (where I do my sand blasting), and between the front doors. So now I can shorten the hose length and get more air. If you get a reel try to place it where you can reach anything with 50' or less. This will give you more air power available. Or as someone said get a freestanding hose, maybe on wheels so you can roll it out the front of the shop and connect it to the plumbing, or to the back etc. I've never bothered with the reel. I have several lengths, on about 25' and several 50' lengths. So I can make it as long as I need it. I was working in the back yard the other day and need something like 150' so I connected several sections together and was able to reach when I needed to. Granted I didn't have as much air flow as possible, but for that use it wasn't a real requirement. I keep the hoses coiled up and hanging from hooks on some shelves I've suspended from the ceiling. Yes, it can be a pain having to lug them out, and coil them back up, but it's no worse than having to go to the tool box to get a tool. I pull out a section of hose before I start working on a job, and put it up when I'm done, just like all the other tools. If I had a lift, I might think about a reel. And place it near the lift so I could get around with out having to pull out a hunk of hose. Always use the shortest hose you can. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From Tim.Mullen at ngc.com Mon Apr 21 13:36:59 2008 From: Tim.Mullen at ngc.com (Mullen, Tim) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 14:36:59 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.2.20080421135139.03cfd008@yahoo.com> References: <6.2.5.6.2.20080421135139.03cfd008@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C79701362352@XMBIL103.northgrum.com> > I have 2 reels in my garage, one way up high in the > back and one about 5 feet off the floor near the doors > (use outside as well). I also have three reels. A harbor Freight cheap one mounted on the ceiling pretty much in the center of my two car garage. It reaches anyplace in the garage without any problems at all. It was one of their cheap plastic enclosed reels, and it's been working just fine for nearly 20 years. I still see them on sale for less than $50 in the sale catalogs. I also have my trouble light and extension cord reels mounted in the same area. If you don't have your trouble light and extensions on ceiling mounted reels, you are doing things the hard way. I have a second metal reel with a 30 ft hose mounted on the wall between the garage doors. I use it when I need air on the driveways. I keep one of the "slinky" hoses plugged into the end so that I can reach to the far end of the driveway for airing up tires. That reel was bought on sale at a big box store for around $70. It's also working just fine, except that the hose tends to bunch up on the reel sometimes and it seems like it's going to wrap over the side of the reel. My third hose reel was bought on sale at Sears. It is a portable carry reel with a hundred foot hose. It's manual, and is stored away unless I need a long hose for cleaning the rain gutters or something. Then I unwind what I need, plug the other air hose into the feed on the portable reel, and plug into the far end. It all works fine. All the hoses are 3/8 size with standard 1/4 inch fittings. You loose a tiny bit of air flow with the 1/4 fittings, but not enough to worry about. Using bigger fittings won't make a noticeable difference in air pressure or flow. Using a 1/4 air hose, however, will make a huge difference. Just stay away from 1/4 hoses. Tim Mullen Chantilly, VA From shochschild at att.net Mon Apr 21 18:50:04 2008 From: shochschild at att.net (shochschild at att.net) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 19:50:04 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw: Air Hose Reel Message-ID: I have never needed 75' inside the garage. I bought a Harbor Freight retractable reel with a goodyear rubber hose and it works fine for me, and at a fraction of the price... I, like Tim, also have a windup reel by the outside of the garage for when I need to have air outside on the driveway, and I have another huge long rubber hose coiled up on a garden hose hanger for the one time I wanted air all the way across the lawn. I also have a retractable power cord and a retractable neon trouble light. I'll bet I got all of the above for less than the price of the one you linked to... I also have an easy solution to the pressure fall-off with longer hoses or 1/4" connectors. I have a portable 5 gallon tank that has both a feed connector and an 8' output hose that I carry to the work. It is between the long hose that goes back to the compressor and the tool and acts as local storage or a sort of capacitor. In between the times I use the tool it recharges back up to full pressure and delivers it to the tool. It is easier to use than to explain, actually. I don't use it inside the garage, just when I work outside. >>> http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?mpe_id=12075&cm_cr=No+Campaign-_-Web+Activity-_-Cross+Sell+Up+Sell-_-ProductDetail_Espot1-_-Levelwind+Retractable+Hose+Reel+for+Air+with+3%2F8+in+ID+x+75+ft+Hose&catalogId=10001&productId=35435&evtype=CpgnClick&intv_id=15001&langId=-1&storeId=10551&ddkey=http:ClickInfo From jferguson at bellsouth.net Mon Apr 21 19:16:10 2008 From: jferguson at bellsouth.net (Jim Ferguson) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 21:16:10 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Coleman Pressure Washer, Cutting Out In-Reply-To: <00ab01c8a3da$6b4ff7a0$80a8a8c0@dellc84024> References: <20080421131445.W64802@itonami.pair.com> <00ab01c8a3da$6b4ff7a0$80a8a8c0@dellc84024> Message-ID: <480D3C5A.4020004@bellsouth.net> If it has a Tecumseh engine check the small fuel port in the float bowl screw. Unscrew it and clean it out and replace. I solved similar problems many times by just cleaning it. It only takes a small flake of stuff to restrict it. Jim From cavanadd at verizon.net Mon Apr 21 20:23:55 2008 From: cavanadd at verizon.net (David C.) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 19:23:55 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel In-Reply-To: <912672.1879.qm@web612.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <912672.1879.qm@web612.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0JZP00700G00J8G0@vms173001.mailsrvcs.net> At 07:12 AM 4/21/2008, Doug Braun wrote: >I couple of years ago I bought one of those generic >Chinese retracting reels (with 50' hose) from a swap >meet vendor. They were normally about $75 at the >time, but he was getting ready to pack up, so I got it >for only $60. I have two of the Harbor Freight models. Harbor Freight doesn't list them on their website right now, but it's the same as this one: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_47578_47578 Only I got mine on sale for about $30 or so. I haven't had any problems with them. I mounted them about seven feet up, and I also have drops at waist level with QD fittings on them and about 15 or 20 feet of 1/4" hose hanging on them. Dave C From parkanzky at gmail.com Mon Apr 21 20:32:31 2008 From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 22:32:31 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel In-Reply-To: <0JZP00700G00J8G0@vms173001.mailsrvcs.net> References: <912672.1879.qm@web612.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <0JZP00700G00J8G0@vms173001.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: It sounds like that's exactly what I should buy. I'll try to find the best deal I can on a couple of self-winding reels with 50' of rubber hose on them. I need a couple of other things from Harbor Freight anyway, so I'll look there next time I get a chance. I'll mount one between the garage doors and one on the opposite wall (next to the compressor). I'll put both of them up high with a 5' leader hose on them. Thanks for all the advice everybody. -Paul On 4/21/08, David C. wrote: > At 07:12 AM 4/21/2008, Doug Braun wrote: > >I couple of years ago I bought one of those generic > >Chinese retracting reels (with 50' hose) from a swap > >meet vendor. They were normally about $75 at the > >time, but he was getting ready to pack up, so I got it > >for only $60. > > > > I have two of the Harbor Freight models. Harbor Freight doesn't list > them on their website right now, but it's the same as this one: > http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_47578_47578 > Only I got mine on sale for about $30 or so. I haven't had any > problems with them. I mounted them about seven feet up, and I also > have drops at waist level with QD fittings on them and about 15 or 20 > feet of 1/4" hose hanging on them. > > Dave C From rbeels at yahoo.com Tue Apr 22 11:09:15 2008 From: rbeels at yahoo.com (Richard Beels) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 13:09:15 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel In-Reply-To: References: <912672.1879.qm@web612.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <0JZP00700G00J8G0@vms173001.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.2.20080422130743.03e37768@yahoo.com> You don't need an extra leader hose, just loosen the clamping screws on the "stopper" and slide it down the hose until it's where you want it to be and tighten the screws. And the reels go on sale every other month or so at my local store so if they're not when you first go there, just wait.... :-) At 4/21/2008 at 22:32, Shakespearean monkeys danced on Paul Parkanzky's keyboard and said: >It sounds like that's exactly what I should buy. I'll try to find the >best deal I can on a couple of self-winding reels with 50' of rubber >hose on them. I need a couple of other things from Harbor Freight >anyway, so I'll look there next time I get a chance. I'll mount one >between the garage doors and one on the opposite wall (next to the >compressor). I'll put both of them up high with a 5' leader hose on >them. Thanks for all the advice everybody. > >-Paul > >On 4/21/08, David C. wrote: > > At 07:12 AM 4/21/2008, Doug Braun wrote: > > >I couple of years ago I bought one of those generic > > >Chinese retracting reels (with 50' hose) from a swap > > >meet vendor. They were normally about $75 at the > > >time, but he was getting ready to pack up, so I got it > > >for only $60. Cheers! From battmain at yahoo.com Tue Apr 22 20:31:43 2008 From: battmain at yahoo.com (Battmain) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 19:31:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Coleman Pressure Washer, Cutting Out Message-ID: <367546.29784.qm@web57010.mail.re3.yahoo.com> In my case, I bypassed the fuel shutoff valve with some fuel hose and it solved a similar issue with my pressure washer. When it occured, I had used it at most twice and fuel remained in the fuel tank. I had taken the carb completely apart one day and used air to clean out the passages. Did not help. I have not yet bothered to replace the fuel valve since it still runs and will go through an entire tank of fuel without any issues now. Brian battmain at yahoo.com ----- Original Message ---- From: David Hillman To: shop-talk at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, April 21, 2008 1:23:54 PM Subject: [Shop-talk] Coleman Pressure Washer, Cutting Out (snip) Any ideas on how to get this thing to run consistently, or what's wrong with it? Thanks. ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ From rbender9 at sbcglobal.net Wed Apr 23 14:22:01 2008 From: rbender9 at sbcglobal.net (Robert Bender) Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2008 13:22:01 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands Message-ID: <732999.74881.qm@web83812.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I need to buy a couple of pairs of new jack stands. I want something with a flat bottom to the feet, so they don't gouge up my painted garage floor, or sink into an asphalt driveway. I like the kind that have rubber bumpers to slip over the seat, and the ratcheting type seems useful. I've been looking through the archives, but haven't found much discussion. Any strong preferences, dislikes or recommendations out there? Does anyone have a brand or type they recommend? Thanks, Bob From jblair1948 at cox.net Wed Apr 23 15:35:58 2008 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2008 17:35:58 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: <732999.74881.qm@web83812.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3.0.5.32.20080423173558.00a66670@pop.east.cox.net> At 01:22 PM 4/23/2008 -0700, Robert Bender wrote: >I need to buy a couple of pairs of new jack stands. I want something >with a flat bottom to the feet, so they don't gouge up my painted garage >floor, or sink into an asphalt driveway. I like the kind that have rubber >bumpers to slip over the seat, and the ratcheting type seems useful. Bob, I can't say as I've ever seen a jack stand with a "flat" bottom. You could cut some plywood and make platforms for the jackstands. As to the rubber bumpers, I just saw them in the latest Harbor Freight catalog: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95952 John >_______________________________________________ >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >You are subscribed as jblair1948 at cox.net > >Shop-talk mailing list > >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk > >http://www.team.net/archive > John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From mikey at b2systems.com Wed Apr 23 15:53:50 2008 From: mikey at b2systems.com (Mike Rambour) Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2008 14:53:50 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: <3.0.5.32.20080423173558.00a66670@pop.east.cox.net> References: <3.0.5.32.20080423173558.00a66670@pop.east.cox.net> Message-ID: <480FAFEE.3090906@b2systems.com> http://www.alltiresupply.com/p-3000NFP.html and they have flat bottoms that don't harm my racedeck plastic tiles. first pair were given to me, they were so nice I purchased the second pair. mike John T. Blair wrote: > At 01:22 PM 4/23/2008 -0700, Robert Bender wrote: > > >> I need to buy a couple of pairs of new jack stands. I want something >> with a flat bottom to the feet, so they don't gouge up my painted garage >> floor, or sink into an asphalt driveway. I like the kind that have rubber >> bumpers to slip over the seat, and the ratcheting type seems useful. >> > > Bob, > > I can't say as I've ever seen a jack stand with a "flat" bottom. You could > cut some plywood and make platforms for the jackstands. As to the rubber > bumpers, I just saw them in the latest Harbor Freight catalog: > > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95952 > > John > > > >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> You are subscribed as jblair1948 at cox.net >> >> Shop-talk mailing list >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> >> > John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net > Va. Beach, Va > Phone: (757) 495-8229 > > 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) > 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III > 65 Rambler Classic > > Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan > Bricklin: www.bricklin.org > > If you can read this - Thank a teacher! > If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html From mikey at b2systems.com Wed Apr 23 15:55:10 2008 From: mikey at b2systems.com (Mike Rambour) Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2008 14:55:10 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: <3.0.5.32.20080423173558.00a66670@pop.east.cox.net> References: <3.0.5.32.20080423173558.00a66670@pop.east.cox.net> Message-ID: <480FB03E.6010306@b2systems.com> ones in my first e-mail...thought they were too expensive. John T. Blair wrote: > At 01:22 PM 4/23/2008 -0700, Robert Bender wrote: > > >> I need to buy a couple of pairs of new jack stands. I want something >> with a flat bottom to the feet, so they don't gouge up my painted garage >> floor, or sink into an asphalt driveway. I like the kind that have rubber >> bumpers to slip over the seat, and the ratcheting type seems useful. >> > > Bob, > > I can't say as I've ever seen a jack stand with a "flat" bottom. You could > cut some plywood and make platforms for the jackstands. As to the rubber > bumpers, I just saw them in the latest Harbor Freight catalog: > > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95952 > > John > > > >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> You are subscribed as jblair1948 at cox.net >> >> Shop-talk mailing list >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> >> > John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net > Va. Beach, Va > Phone: (757) 495-8229 > > 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) > 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III > 65 Rambler Classic > > Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan > Bricklin: www.bricklin.org > > If you can read this - Thank a teacher! > If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html From mikey at b2systems.com Wed Apr 23 15:59:10 2008 From: mikey at b2systems.com (Mike Rambour) Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2008 14:59:10 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: <480FAFEE.3090906@b2systems.com> References: <3.0.5.32.20080423173558.00a66670@pop.east.cox.net> <480FAFEE.3090906@b2systems.com> Message-ID: <480FB12E.1010007@b2systems.com> ... Something is wrong with my e-mail, the first line is consistently being deleted today, lets try this again. On my first message the first line said these were awfully pricey but I think they are worth it. On the second e-mail my first line said that these were the ones I have http://www.alltiresupply.com/p-3000N.html but that link was on the first line and cut off. Mike Rambour wrote: > http://www.alltiresupply.com/p-3000NFP.html and they have flat bottoms > that don't harm my racedeck plastic tiles. > > first pair were given to me, they were so nice I purchased the second pair. > > mike > > John T. Blair wrote: > >> At 01:22 PM 4/23/2008 -0700, Robert Bender wrote: >> >> >> >>> I need to buy a couple of pairs of new jack stands. I want something >>> with a flat bottom to the feet, so they don't gouge up my painted garage >>> floor, or sink into an asphalt driveway. I like the kind that have rubber >>> bumpers to slip over the seat, and the ratcheting type seems useful. >>> >>> >> Bob, >> >> I can't say as I've ever seen a jack stand with a "flat" bottom. You could >> cut some plywood and make platforms for the jackstands. As to the rubber >> bumpers, I just saw them in the latest Harbor Freight catalog: >> >> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95952 >> >> John >> >> >> >> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> You are subscribed as jblair1948 at cox.net >>> >>> Shop-talk mailing list >>> >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk >>> >>> http://www.team.net/archive >>> >>> >>> >> John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net >> Va. Beach, Va >> Phone: (757) 495-8229 >> >> 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) >> 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III >> 65 Rambler Classic >> >> Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan >> Bricklin: www.bricklin.org >> >> If you can read this - Thank a teacher! >> If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html From bugi1960 at gmail.com Wed Apr 23 17:45:20 2008 From: bugi1960 at gmail.com (Phil Nase) Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2008 19:45:20 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: <3.0.5.32.20080423173558.00a66670@pop.east.cox.net> References: <3.0.5.32.20080423173558.00a66670@pop.east.cox.net> Message-ID: <78E7EC2C-8008-487A-B917-448B14B1C299@gmail.com> I just cut some fuel line to cover the seat. Cheap. Phil Nase On Apr 23, 2008, at 5:35 PM, John T. Blair wrote: > At 01:22 PM 4/23/2008 -0700, Robert Bender wrote: > >> I need to buy a couple of pairs of new jack stands. I want something >> with a flat bottom to the feet, so they don't gouge up my painted >> garage >> floor, or sink into an asphalt driveway. I like the kind that have >> rubber >> bumpers to slip over the seat, and the ratcheting type seems useful. From mark at sccaprepared.com Thu Apr 24 09:01:50 2008 From: mark at sccaprepared.com (Mark Andy) Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 11:01:50 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: <480FAFEE.3090906@b2systems.com> References: <3.0.5.32.20080423173558.00a66670@pop.east.cox.net> <480FAFEE.3090906@b2systems.com> Message-ID: Howdy, IIRC, Sam's Club had Goodyear brand silver jackstands that had little triangular plates welded to the bottom of the legs. Not so big that they made the stand unstable, but big enough that it didn't dig into asphalt. Seems like it'd be an easy job to do that yourself with any generic set of jackstands from HF or whatever. Personally, I wouldn't own a jackstand that didn't have the ability to ratchet up into place (at least, for general usage). Mark On Wed, 23 Apr 2008, Mike Rambour wrote: > http://www.alltiresupply.com/p-3000NFP.html and they have flat bottoms > that don't harm my racedeck plastic tiles. > > first pair were given to me, they were so nice I purchased the second pair. > > mike > > John T. Blair wrote: >> At 01:22 PM 4/23/2008 -0700, Robert Bender wrote: >> >> >>> I need to buy a couple of pairs of new jack stands. I want something >>> with a flat bottom to the feet, so they don't gouge up my painted garage >>> floor, or sink into an asphalt driveway. I like the kind that have rubber >>> bumpers to slip over the seat, and the ratcheting type seems useful. >>> >> >> Bob, >> >> I can't say as I've ever seen a jack stand with a "flat" bottom. You could >> cut some plywood and make platforms for the jackstands. As to the rubber >> bumpers, I just saw them in the latest Harbor Freight catalog: >> >> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95952 >> >> John >> >> >> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> You are subscribed as jblair1948 at cox.net >>> >>> Shop-talk mailing list >>> >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk >>> >>> http://www.team.net/archive >>> >>> >> John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net >> Va. Beach, Va >> Phone: (757) 495-8229 >> >> 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) >> 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III >> 65 Rambler Classic >> >> Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan >> Bricklin: www.bricklin.org >> >> If you can read this - Thank a teacher! >> If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > You are subscribed as mark at sccaprepared.com > > Shop-talk mailing list > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk > > http://www.team.net/archive From Tim.Mullen at ngc.com Thu Apr 24 09:41:36 2008 From: Tim.Mullen at ngc.com (Mullen, Tim) Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 10:41:36 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: <480FAFEE.3090906@b2systems.com> References: <3.0.5.32.20080423173558.00a66670@pop.east.cox.net> <480FAFEE.3090906@b2systems.com> Message-ID: <9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C797013ABC3E@XMBIL103.northgrum.com> Mike Rambour wrote: > > http://www.alltiresupply.com/p-3000NFP.html and they have > flat bottoms that don't harm my racedeck plastic tiles. I have a set of jack stands that are much like those, except that the middle tube extends down to the ground and has a flat plate attached to it. Additionally, the legs can unlatch at the bottom and fold in making it easier to store. I've had them for about 20 years, and the only place I've been able to find similar jack stands was from shops in England (here's a sample of some on UK's Ebay: ). But recently, I bought a new set of aluminum jack stands - "Big Red" by Torin . There are extremely stable (just as stable as my three legged ones) and light weight. Rather than a ratcheting mechanism to raise and lower it, it has the pin through the hole method of adjusting the height - I much prefer that kind as it isn't going to possibly slip. I highly recommend the "Big Red"s... Tim Mullen Chantilly, VA From kvacek at ameritech.net Thu Apr 24 09:54:13 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 10:54:13 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands References: <3.0.5.32.20080423173558.00a66670@pop.east.cox.net><480FAFEE.3090906@b2systems.com> <9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C797013ABC3E@XMBIL103.northgrum.com> Message-ID: <00bd01c8a623$72956a40$6e01a8c0@KARL> Please be careful with those... Not much of a base there -- looks like they could topple easily. I trust fabrications more than castings, too. Suppose that little base cracked ? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mullen, Tim" > But recently, I bought a new set of aluminum jack stands - "Big Red" by > Torin . There are > extremely stable (just as stable as my three legged ones) and light > weight. > > Rather than a ratcheting mechanism to raise and lower it, it has the pin > through the hole method of adjusting the height - I much prefer that > kind as it isn't going to possibly slip. > > I highly recommend the "Big Red"s... > > Tim Mullen > > Chantilly, VA From doug at dougbraun.com Thu Apr 24 11:14:05 2008 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 10:14:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Decent grease in mini-cartridges? Message-ID: <888427.34429.qm@web602.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hello, I've always used one of those mini grease guns instead of a full-size type because even the mini cartridges last a couple of years for me. But I ran out recently, and when I went shopping for more grease, I could not find any good-quality EP grease, just a generic lithium-base grease and a boat-trailer-wheel grease. Has anybody seen a high-quality grease in mini-cartridges recently? Thanks, Doug From dmscheidt at gmail.com Thu Apr 24 11:26:11 2008 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 13:26:11 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Decent grease in mini-cartridges? In-Reply-To: <888427.34429.qm@web602.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <888427.34429.qm@web602.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2400a5d40804241026k7fe75229xdb07509a985456e8@mail.gmail.com> On Thu, Apr 24, 2008 at 1:14 PM, Doug Braun wrote: > Hello, > > I've always used one of those mini grease guns instead > of a full-size type because even the mini cartridges > last a couple of years for me. > > But I ran out recently, and when I went shopping for > more grease, I could not find any good-quality EP > grease, just a generic lithium-base grease and a > boat-trailer-wheel grease. > > Has anybody seen a high-quality grease in > mini-cartridges recently? > > Thanks, Yes. What are you lubing that a lithium soap grease isn't good enough? I've put a zerk on my mini gun, so I can fill it from a bigger one. -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com From Tim.Mullen at ngc.com Thu Apr 24 12:07:15 2008 From: Tim.Mullen at ngc.com (Mullen, Tim) Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 13:07:15 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: <00bd01c8a623$72956a40$6e01a8c0@KARL> References: <3.0.5.32.20080423173558.00a66670@pop.east.cox.net><480FAFEE.3090906@b2systems.com> <9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C797013ABC3E@XMBIL103.northgrum.com> <00bd01c8a623$72956a40$6e01a8c0@KARL> Message-ID: <9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C797013ABD84@XMBIL103.northgrum.com> Karl Vacek [mailto:kvacek at ameritech.net] wrote: > > Please be careful with those... > > Not much of a base there -- looks like they could topple > easily. I trust fabrications more than castings, too. > Suppose that little base cracked ? They are much stronger than they first appear, and that base is just as wide as my regular jack stand with "legs". I have no worries about them cracking, tipping over, or failing in any way. They are very solidly built. Tim Mullen Chantilly, VA From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Apr 24 12:35:32 2008 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 18:35:32 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] Decent grease in mini-cartridges? Message-ID: <042420081835.15910.4810D2F4000B435A00003E26220075043804040A0B079F9C0D@comcast.net> I get Sta-Lube moly grease in mini-cartridge three-packs. Seen them at OSH and many parts stores. bs -- *************************************************************** Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M *************************************************************** -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "David Scheidt" > On Thu, Apr 24, 2008 at 1:14 PM, Doug Braun wrote: > > Hello, > > > > I've always used one of those mini grease guns instead > > of a full-size type because even the mini cartridges > > last a couple of years for me. > > > > But I ran out recently, and when I went shopping for > > more grease, I could not find any good-quality EP > > grease, just a generic lithium-base grease and a > > boat-trailer-wheel grease. > > > > Has anybody seen a high-quality grease in > > mini-cartridges recently? > > > > Thanks, > > Yes. What are you lubing that a lithium soap grease isn't good > enough? I've put a zerk on my mini gun, so I can fill it from a > bigger one. > > > -- > David Scheidt > dmscheidt at gmail.com From doug at dougbraun.com Thu Apr 24 13:15:27 2008 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 12:15:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Decent grease in mini-cartridges? In-Reply-To: <042420081835.15910.4810D2F4000B435A00003E26220075043804040A0B079F9C0D@comcast.net> Message-ID: <525764.49806.qm@web605.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> That's what I last bought. Probably I just need to visit a better class of hardware store, like OSH... The only downside of moly grease is that it's MESSY! --- Bob Spidell wrote: > I get Sta-Lube moly grease in mini-cartridge > three-packs. Seen them at OSH and many parts > stores. > > > bs > > -- > *************************************************************** > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA > bspidell at comcast.net > '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey > 100M > *************************************************************** > > -------------- Original message > ---------------------- > From: "David Scheidt" > > On Thu, Apr 24, 2008 at 1:14 PM, Doug Braun > wrote: > > > Hello, > > > > > > I've always used one of those mini grease guns > instead > > > of a full-size type because even the mini > cartridges > > > last a couple of years for me. > > > > > > But I ran out recently, and when I went > shopping for > > > more grease, I could not find any good-quality > EP > > > grease, just a generic lithium-base grease and > a > > > boat-trailer-wheel grease. > > > > > > Has anybody seen a high-quality grease in > > > mini-cartridges recently? > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > Yes. What are you lubing that a lithium soap > grease isn't good > > enough? I've put a zerk on my mini gun, so I can > fill it from a > > bigger one. > > > > > > -- > > David Scheidt > > dmscheidt at gmail.com From doug at dougbraun.com Thu Apr 24 13:19:34 2008 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 12:19:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Decent grease in mini-cartridges? In-Reply-To: <2400a5d40804241026k7fe75229xdb07509a985456e8@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <524841.96431.qm@web603.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> The grease I could find did not have any EP ratings, etc. Also, I had a few cartridges I had bought several years ago, and they had oozed out an oily mess and had become unusable, which was not an encouraging sign. Doug --- David Scheidt wrote: > Yes. What are you lubing that a lithium soap grease > isn't good > enough? I've put a zerk on my mini gun, so I can > fill it from a > bigger one. From opposumking at verizon.net Fri Apr 25 04:04:26 2008 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2008 06:04:26 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Decent grease in mini-cartridges? References: <888427.34429.qm@web602.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <002601c8a6bb$becb5170$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> >I could not find any good-quality EP > grease, just a generic lithium-base grease and a > boat-trailer-wheel grease. The Lubrimatic marine wheel bearing grease is an EP grease. It's an NLGI #2 GC-LB. Harborfreight carries sta-lubes Moly-graphite grease in the small tubes. From opposumking at verizon.net Fri Apr 25 04:16:54 2008 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2008 06:16:54 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands References: <3.0.5.32.20080423173558.00a66670@pop.east.cox.net> <480FAFEE.3090906@b2systems.com> <9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C797013ABC3E@XMBIL103.northgrum.com> Message-ID: <003101c8a6bd$7e8e3da0$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> > Rather than a ratcheting mechanism to raise and lower it, it has the pin > through the hole method of adjusting the height - I much prefer that > kind as it isn't going to possibly slip. Until the pin sheers, which I have done. Then the whole thing crashes down instantly. They're cast aluminum, which snaps with no warning and no bending. The base is small, by anyones measure. Very unstable. The base is capable of rolling. Check out the history of that disasterous round based stand Snap-On came up with a few years back. Had the neat habit of rolling with the car on them. From rs1121 at earthlink.net Fri Apr 25 08:26:36 2008 From: rs1121 at earthlink.net (Ron Schmittou) Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2008 09:26:36 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: <003101c8a6bd$7e8e3da0$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> References: <3.0.5.32.20080423173558.00a66670@pop.east.cox.net> <480FAFEE.3090906@b2systems.com> <9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C797013ABC3E@XMBIL103.northgrum.com> <003101c8a6bd$7e8e3da0$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: <061a01c8a6e0$5e3de960$1ab9bc20$@net> This is one of the subjects that we tend to forget each of us is use to working on different stuff - some work on the tiny brit cars, and others on the f350 and tractor size eq, and then idiots like me that try to work on both and end up making big mistakes when raising the wife's expedition on the lift and forgeting it just won't go up as high as the elise! From smarc at smarc.net Wed Apr 30 07:56:03 2008 From: smarc at smarc.net (Marc) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 09:56:03 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: <061a01c8a6e0$5e3de960$1ab9bc20$@net> References: <3.0.5.32.20080423173558.00a66670@pop.east.cox.net> <480FAFEE.3090906@b2systems.com> <9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C797013ABC3E@XMBIL103.northgrum.com> <003101c8a6bd$7e8e3da0$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> <061a01c8a6e0$5e3de960$1ab9bc20$@net> Message-ID: <48187A73.10704@smarc.net> I have plenty of jackstands and two sets of ramps, but they are not my favorite to work with... I have been looking at the Kwiklift ( http://www.kwiklift.com ) Anyone have / use one? Comments or experiences? My needs are little brit cars & my daily driver mid-size truck... Marc From eric at megageek.com Wed Apr 30 08:47:01 2008 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 10:47:01 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands Message-ID: At the risk of offending someone that may use these, I really donbt see the point of these lifts. Basically, it lifts up a vehicle about a 20b total. Then, you have to work around these lifts, which it looks like will be in the way on the sides, and front of the vehicle and in between the wheels underneath. I just canbt see where they would be a real advantage. Moose "We all know we're dying, And there's no sign of a parachute." Tori Amos From mark at sccaprepared.com Wed Apr 30 09:10:14 2008 From: mark at sccaprepared.com (Mark Andy) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 11:10:14 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Howdy, On Wed, 30 Apr 2008, eric at megageek.com wrote: > At the risk of offending someone that may use these, I really donbt see > the point of these lifts. > > Basically, it lifts up a vehicle about a 20b total. Then, you have to > work around these lifts, which it looks like will be in the way on the > sides, and front of the vehicle and in between the wheels underneath. > > I just canbt see where they would be a real advantage. They'd be handy for some things, but for $1.5k I think I'd buy a low clearance lift (i.e. uses the floor to cross the cable/hydraulic line or whatever is over, vs. doing it overhead). It'd cost similar money (assuming you could find one used) and it'd let you lift the vehicle higher, even though you wouldn't have the clearance to be able to stand under the vehicle in most residential garages. Mark From Tim.Mullen at ngc.com Wed Apr 30 09:11:23 2008 From: Tim.Mullen at ngc.com (Mullen, Tim) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 10:11:23 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: <48187A73.10704@smarc.net> References: <3.0.5.32.20080423173558.00a66670@pop.east.cox.net><480FAFEE.3090906@b2systems.com><9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C797013ABC3E@XMBIL103.northgrum.com><003101c8a6bd$7e8e3da0$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us><061a01c8a6e0$5e3de960$1ab9bc20$@net> <48187A73.10704@smarc.net> Message-ID: <9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C797013F8AA9@XMBIL103.northgrum.com> Marc wrote: > > I have plenty of jackstands and two sets of ramps, but they are > not my favorite to work with... I have been looking at the > Kwiklift ( http://www.kwiklift.com ) I never quite understood the appeal of those. For a couple hundred more, you can get a four post drive on lift. You can do the same work on the lift and store cars up in the air. With the Kwiklift, you are still sliding around on your back, just like the car was on jack stands. I'd take a real lift any day. Tim Mullen From mark at sccaprepared.com Wed Apr 30 09:12:08 2008 From: mark at sccaprepared.com (Mark Andy) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 11:12:08 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] jack bleeding Message-ID: Howdy, I have a 2 ton low clearence jack I got from Sam's club. Dunno what the brand is or whatever. Its never really lifted worth a damn, and I suspect that its due to air being in the system. Can someone explain the fundamentals of jack hydraulics to me? I want to bleed the thing, but I don't have a decent picture in my head of where the air is, how the hyraulics work, how to bleed it well, etc. etc. Thanks! Mark From trevor at boicey.com Wed Apr 30 09:16:39 2008 From: trevor at boicey.com (Trevor Boicey) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 11:16:39 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <37405.198.103.167.20.1209568599.squirrel@new.host.name> > higher, even though you wouldn't have the clearance to be able to stand > under the vehicle in most residential garages. Worth chiming in, I don't consider this a real minus... I have a hoist in my garage, and I've moved from a house with "medium" clearance to one with "lower" clearance. I find I am more comfortable sitting on a rolling chair under the car than standing. I'm pretty sure I don't work as fast as a pro mechanic so I like to be comfortable. The other upside is that the entire floor becomes your tool tray, everything is within reach. The main downside is that when you need a new tool, you have to hunch over to get to the tool chest... Overall though, sitting beats standing for me... From opposumking at verizon.net Wed Apr 30 09:32:26 2008 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 11:32:26 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack bleeding References: Message-ID: <002b01c8aad7$67852a10$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> > Can someone explain the fundamentals of jack hydraulics to me? I want to > bleed the thing, but I don't have a decent picture in my head of where the > air is, how the hyraulics work, how to bleed it well, etc. etc. You might find this helpful http://www.hyjacks.com/H7.HTM From smarc at smarc.net Wed Apr 30 09:38:03 2008 From: smarc at smarc.net (Marc) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 11:38:03 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: <9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C797013F8AA9@XMBIL103.northgrum.com> References: <3.0.5.32.20080423173558.00a66670@pop.east.cox.net><480FAFEE.3090906@b2systems.com><9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C797013ABC3E@XMBIL103.northgrum.com><003101c8a6bd$7e8e3da0$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us><061a01c8a6e0$5e3de960$1ab9bc20$@net> <48187A73.10704@smarc.net> <9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C797013F8AA9@XMBIL103.northgrum.com> Message-ID: <4818925B.4000303@smarc.net> I'm looking at options beyond jackstands. I can see where the kwiklift could be handy. I'm not sure that my garage could accommodate a 4 post lift. That would be nice though... Marc Mullen, Tim wrote: Marc wrote: I have plenty of jackstands and two sets of ramps, but they are not my favorite to work with... I have been looking at the Kwiklift ( http://www.kwiklift.com ) I never quite understood the appeal of those. For a couple hundred more, you can get a four post drive on lift. You can do the same work on the lift and store cars up in the air. With the Kwiklift, you are still sliding around on your back, just like the car was on jack stands. I'd take a real lift any day. Tim Mullen _______________________________________________ From nick at landform.co.uk Wed Apr 30 09:49:03 2008 From: nick at landform.co.uk (nick brearley) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 16:49:03 +0100 Subject: [Shop-talk] a question on portable air tanks Message-ID: <481894EF.8050303@landform.co.uk> I have an 11 gal portable air tank, think it came from Northern Tools last century, which gets used for the sort of thing such things get used for. Looking at the underside the other day I noticed " Discard after Mar 2007" stamped in the metal. Are the manufacturers covering themselves against abuse and neglect or do these things have a measurable lifespan? FWIW I drain it off after each use with an open ended hose in an inverted position, hoping to shift any build up of condensation. Any experience or opinions received with interest. Nick Brearley From kvacek at ameritech.net Wed Apr 30 09:58:15 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 10:58:15 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] a question on portable air tanks References: <481894EF.8050303@landform.co.uk> Message-ID: <001d01c8aadb$0030d860$6e01a8c0@KARL> Oh, thanks ! Another thing to worry about... Mine is a Dayton (Grainger). Bought it in 1971 and that seems like just a few years ago. Never considered that it might not be immortal like me ;-) Karl >I have an 11 gal portable air tank, think it came from Northern Tools > last century, which gets used for the sort of thing such things get used > for. Looking at the underside the other day I noticed " Discard after > Mar 2007" stamped in the metal. Are the manufacturers covering > themselves against abuse and neglect or do these things have a > measurable lifespan? FWIW I drain it off after each use with an open > ended hose in an inverted position, hoping to shift any build up of > condensation. > > Any experience or opinions received with interest. > > Nick Brearley From parkanzky at gmail.com Wed Apr 30 10:43:01 2008 From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 12:43:01 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: <37405.198.103.167.20.1209568599.squirrel@new.host.name> References: <37405.198.103.167.20.1209568599.squirrel@new.host.name> Message-ID: I can speak from experience here. I have a 4-post lift. I bought a Direct Lift Pro Park 7LL when I was in the same place as the OP. The lift is a bit tight in my garage, but much handier to use than the Kwik Lift (Which I also looked at). If I remember right, I paid $1650 for my lift a few months ago. I agree completely with Trevor, but I took it one step further. I have a stool, and I bought a little rolling table that adjusts in height: http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Rolling-Work-Table-p/httc304c.htm It's as quality an item as you'd expect a $99 work table to be, but this gives me a work space that follows me and my stool around under the car. I still have to hunch over and make my way to the tool chest now and then, but I find that I accumulate most of the tools I need frequently on the work table (or on the little table under the main table, or in the cabinet, etc...). I bought the cheapie thinking I'd see if I used it or if it was just in the way in the garage and that I'd buy a 'good one' if I found it to be useful. I love it, but I don't see any point to getting a nicer one. It does exactly what I need it to do and I don't feel bad using it to rest heavy parts on or giving it other abuse. I still can't store a car on the lift, because I haven't raised my garage door tracks yet. This also limits the height to which I can lift a car by quite a bit. But it's plenty comfortable to sit under a car on the lift. The Kwik Lift is sort of cool, but only saves you the small hassle of jacking the car up and putting the stands under it. A real lift makes the entire time you're working under there nicer. I don't know you are Marc, but if you're anywhere near Grand Rapids, MI and want to see a 4-post lift in action and take some measurements just shoot me an email. There's an e30 BMW being parted out on it right now, so it's a great opportunity to see it getting some use. -Paul On Wed, Apr 30, 2008 at 11:16 AM, Trevor Boicey wrote: > > higher, even though you wouldn't have the clearance to be able to stand > > under the vehicle in most residential garages. > > Worth chiming in, I don't consider this a real minus... > > I have a hoist in my garage, and I've moved from a house with "medium" > clearance to one with "lower" clearance. > > I find I am more comfortable sitting on a rolling chair under the car > than standing. I'm pretty sure I don't work as fast as a pro mechanic so > I like to be comfortable. > > The other upside is that the entire floor becomes your tool tray, > everything is within reach. > > The main downside is that when you need a new tool, you have to hunch > over to get to the tool chest... > > Overall though, sitting beats standing for me... From dmscheidt at gmail.com Wed Apr 30 10:57:39 2008 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 12:57:39 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] a question on portable air tanks In-Reply-To: <481894EF.8050303@landform.co.uk> References: <481894EF.8050303@landform.co.uk> Message-ID: <2400a5d40804300957r198415ffhef1b248a7fede14@mail.gmail.com> On Wed, Apr 30, 2008 at 11:49 AM, nick brearley wrote: > I have an 11 gal portable air tank, think it came from Northern Tools > last century, which gets used for the sort of thing such things get used > for. Looking at the underside the other day I noticed " Discard after > Mar 2007" stamped in the metal. Are the manufacturers covering > themselves against abuse and neglect or do these things have a > measurable lifespan? FWIW I drain it off after each use with an open > ended hose in an inverted position, hoping to shift any build up of > condensation. There's a standard lifespan for them. It's 10 to 15 years, as I recall. It's not as though they blow up when the date comes around. It's somewhere between CYA and lifespan. -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com From eltonclark at gmail.com Wed Apr 30 12:17:00 2008 From: eltonclark at gmail.com (Elton E. (Tony) Clark) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 13:17:00 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack bleeding In-Reply-To: <002b01c8aad7$67852a10$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> References: <002b01c8aad7$67852a10$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: > You might find this helpful > http://www.hyjacks.com/H7.HTM > _______________________________________________ > That's a useful site with some good information. Further, I notice in the > instructions for BOTH my Walker 2 ton and my Sam's Club "Michelin" branded > floor jacks, a procedure to "clear" or "clean" the valves: Both > instructions call for one to close the release valve, open the fill plug, > stand on the front wheel and manually lift the saddle to full height. Then > release the valve, let jack lower, replace the filler plug. This got my > Walker going one time. From eltonclark at gmail.com Wed Apr 30 12:26:19 2008 From: eltonclark at gmail.com (Elton E. (Tony) Clark) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 13:26:19 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] a question on portable air tanks In-Reply-To: <2400a5d40804300957r198415ffhef1b248a7fede14@mail.gmail.com> References: <481894EF.8050303@landform.co.uk> <2400a5d40804300957r198415ffhef1b248a7fede14@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: I guess I'm living dangerously . . .my portable air tank is a 30 year old freon bottle and my 80 gallon compressor tank is date tagged 1947! Tony From mikey at b2systems.com Wed Apr 30 12:34:01 2008 From: mikey at b2systems.com (Mike Rambour) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 11:34:01 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: References: <37405.198.103.167.20.1209568599.squirrel@new.host.name> Message-ID: <4818BB99.1020200@b2systems.com> $1,600 gets you one of these http://www.asedeals.com/mid_rise_lift.html if you really don't have the space but want to work on the car, I would rather have one of these then the quicklift. Its not very useful for doing gearbox work as you can't get under that part of the car easily, that is when a true lift comes in handy and when the quicklift might work well but I would just go for a 4-post and be done with it. mike (disclaimer, I have both a mid-rise scissor and 4-post so I am biased towards them) From nick at landform.co.uk Wed Apr 30 12:43:27 2008 From: nick at landform.co.uk (nick brearley) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 19:43:27 +0100 Subject: [Shop-talk] a question on portable air tanks In-Reply-To: <001d01c8aadb$0030d860$6e01a8c0@KARL> References: <481894EF.8050303@landform.co.uk> <001d01c8aadb$0030d860$6e01a8c0@KARL> Message-ID: <4818BDCF.9020903@landform.co.uk> Karl Vacek wrote: > > Oh, thanks ! Another thing to worry about... Mine is a Dayton > (Grainger). Bought it in 1971 and that seems like just a few years > ago. Never considered that it might not be immortal like me ;-) Pretty much my thoughts. Just that seeing the instruction aroused a nagging idea that both lifespans might end simultaneously... Nick From smarc at smarc.net Wed Apr 30 12:43:27 2008 From: smarc at smarc.net (Marc) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 14:43:27 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: References: <37405.198.103.167.20.1209568599.squirrel@new.host.name> Message-ID: <4818BDCF.5020603@smarc.net> Ok, some good points made AGAINST the kwik lift... although it still seems safer then jackstands. My space for an actual 4 post would be sort of tight, and the garage door becomes an issue. I can't simply extend the tracks, because the roof of my garage is sloped, and the short side of the garage has the door tracks tight to the ceiling already. The mid-point of the garage, which would be the lowest point over the lift, is 9 feet high. When the door is open, I have just over 7 feet of clearance. The section of floor space under the high side of the garage is 23' deep, and the garage door intrudes 7 &1/2 feet into that space. If I move around some benches, compressor and equipment, that could marginally be made to work. Most lift needs are for LBC's, but it would be nice if I could get my Crew cab Long bed frontier on there (approx 144" wheelbase). The only spec's I have at the moment are for the Backyard buddy lift, which needs 14&1/2 feet for a model which can accommodate my truck, and the posts are 7' 5" high, which would foul the door. If it were moved forward enough to clear the door, there would only be just under 1 foot of space in the front of the lift. Doesn't seem like very much.... Their smaller model needs 13 1/2 feet, and the posts are only 6' 9" high, which clears the door. But I would have to give up the ability to lift my truck. That might just be the reality of it. Also, backyard buddy may be a nice lift, but it's going to be close to 5K between the lift, delivery, and accessories... Thats more then I want to spend... I know there are others other, BendPak, Direct Lift, etc... I would rather not have to anchor to the floor though... Paul - Is the Direct Lift the one that BackYard Buddy talks down all the time? BTW, I appreciate the offer, but I'm in Maryland.... Marc Paul Parkanzky wrote: > I can speak from experience here. I have a 4-post lift. I bought a > Direct Lift Pro Park 7LL when I was in the same place as the OP. The > lift is a bit tight in my garage, but much handier to use than the > Kwik Lift (Which I also looked at). If I remember right, I paid $1650 > for my lift a few months ago. I agree completely with Trevor, but I > took it one step further. I have a stool, and I bought a little > rolling table that adjusts in height: > > http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Rolling-Work-Table-p/httc304c.htm > > It's as quality an item as you'd expect a $99 work table to be, but > this gives me a work space that follows me and my stool around under > the car. I still have to hunch over and make my way to the tool chest > now and then, but I find that I accumulate most of the tools I need > frequently on the work table (or on the little table under the main > table, or in the cabinet, etc...). I bought the cheapie thinking I'd > see if I used it or if it was just in the way in the garage and that > I'd buy a 'good one' if I found it to be useful. I love it, but I > don't see any point to getting a nicer one. It does exactly what I > need it to do and I don't feel bad using it to rest heavy parts on or > giving it other abuse. > > I still can't store a car on the lift, because I haven't raised my > garage door tracks yet. This also limits the height to which I can > lift a car by quite a bit. But it's plenty comfortable to sit under a > car on the lift. The Kwik Lift is sort of cool, but only saves you > the small hassle of jacking the car up and putting the stands under > it. A real lift makes the entire time you're working under there > nicer. > > I don't know you are Marc, but if you're anywhere near Grand Rapids, > MI and want to see a 4-post lift in action and take some measurements > just shoot me an email. There's an e30 BMW being parted out on it > right now, so it's a great opportunity to see it getting some use. > > -Paul From smarc at smarc.net Wed Apr 30 12:44:54 2008 From: smarc at smarc.net (Marc) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 14:44:54 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: <4818BB99.1020200@b2systems.com> References: <37405.198.103.167.20.1209568599.squirrel@new.host.name> <4818BB99.1020200@b2systems.com> Message-ID: <4818BE26.7000601@smarc.net> I've seen one of those used, and frankly, it scares the hell out of me! Marc Mike Rambour wrote: > $1,600 gets you one of these > http://www.asedeals.com/mid_rise_lift.html if you really don't have the > space but want to work on the car, I would rather have one of these then > the quicklift. > > Its not very useful for doing gearbox work as you can't get under that > part of the car easily, that is when a true lift comes in handy and when > the quicklift might work well but I would just go for a 4-post and be > done with it. > > mike (disclaimer, I have both a mid-rise scissor and 4-post so I am > biased towards them) From Tim.Mullen at ngc.com Wed Apr 30 13:09:59 2008 From: Tim.Mullen at ngc.com (Mullen, Tim) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 14:09:59 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] a question on portable air tanks In-Reply-To: References: <481894EF.8050303@landform.co.uk><2400a5d40804300957r198415ffhef1b248a7fede14@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C797013F8CED@XMBIL103.northgrum.com> Elton E. (Tony) Clark wrote: > > I guess I'm living dangerously . . .my portable air tank > is a 30 year old freon bottle and my 80 gallon compressor > tank is date tagged 1947! Get rid of the Freon bottle. That's what I used for years, then one weekend Sears had a nice 10 gallon red tank on sale for around $20. It was worth it. It holds more air, is easy to use, and even has a safety pop off valve. Much better than my old Freon bottle. As for my air compressor tank, mine's not that old, but it's about 30 years old... Tim Mullen From mikey at b2systems.com Wed Apr 30 13:14:37 2008 From: mikey at b2systems.com (Mike Rambour) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 12:14:37 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: <4818BE26.7000601@smarc.net> References: <37405.198.103.167.20.1209568599.squirrel@new.host.name> <4818BB99.1020200@b2systems.com> <4818BE26.7000601@smarc.net> Message-ID: <4818C51D.3030504@b2systems.com> Ok, not sure why they would but ok, some people are also afraid of roller coasters and I don't understand why they are. Scary to me was when the motor came out of the Ferrari Dino and all that weight on the rear end was gone but the front end did not fall to the floor. I did see the pics of the Lotus Elise that fell off one of these at a tire shop right about the time the Dino was on the lift. People use these all the time, including me. Like I said on this list a few weeks ago, just because people do it everyday does not mean its safe, I guess I was right. Anyway, to each his own, I am not offended I was merely suggesting other options, I will keep using mine. mike Marc wrote: > I've seen one of those used, and frankly, it scares the hell out of me! > > Marc > > > > Mike Rambour wrote: > >> $1,600 gets you one of these >> http://www.asedeals.com/mid_rise_lift.html if you really don't have the >> space but want to work on the car, I would rather have one of these then >> the quicklift. >> >> Its not very useful for doing gearbox work as you can't get under that >> part of the car easily, that is when a true lift comes in handy and when >> the quicklift might work well but I would just go for a 4-post and be >> done with it. >> >> mike (disclaimer, I have both a mid-rise scissor and 4-post so I am >> biased towards them) >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > You are subscribed as mikey at b2systems.com > > Shop-talk mailing list > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk > > http://www.team.net/archive From smarc at smarc.net Wed Apr 30 13:18:39 2008 From: smarc at smarc.net (Marc) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 15:18:39 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: <4818C51D.3030504@b2systems.com> References: <37405.198.103.167.20.1209568599.squirrel@new.host.name> <4818BB99.1020200@b2systems.com> <4818BE26.7000601@smarc.net> <4818C51D.3030504@b2systems.com> Message-ID: <4818C60F.4090605@smarc.net> I tend to be overly cautious, perhaps they *are* perfectly safe. But, I just don't feel comfortable with the mid-rise. Could be lack of experience too... Which 4 post lift do you have? Marc Mike Rambour wrote: > > > Ok, not sure why they would but ok, some people are also afraid of > roller coasters and I don't understand why they are. > > Scary to me was when the motor came out of the Ferrari Dino and all > that weight on the rear end was gone but the front end did not fall to > the floor. I did see the pics of the Lotus Elise that fell off one of > these at a tire shop right about the time the Dino was on the lift. > People use these all the time, including me. Like I said on this list > a few weeks ago, just because people do it everyday does not mean its > safe, I guess I was right. > > Anyway, to each his own, I am not offended I was merely suggesting > other options, I will keep using mine. > > mike > > Marc wrote: >> I've seen one of those used, and frankly, it scares the hell out of me! >> >> Marc >> >> >> >> Mike Rambour wrote: >> >>> $1,600 gets you one of these >>> http://www.asedeals.com/mid_rise_lift.html if you really don't have >>> the space but want to work on the car, I would rather have one of >>> these then the quicklift. >>> >>> Its not very useful for doing gearbox work as you can't get under >>> that part of the car easily, that is when a true lift comes in handy >>> and when the quicklift might work well but I would just go for a >>> 4-post and be done with it. >>> >>> mike (disclaimer, I have both a mid-rise scissor and 4-post so I >>> am biased towards them) From lspector at gmail.com Wed Apr 30 13:25:05 2008 From: lspector at gmail.com (Larry Spector) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 15:25:05 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: <167503c10804301216k413a323t5054a5a070cbb171@mail.gmail.com> References: <37405.198.103.167.20.1209568599.squirrel@new.host.name> <4818BDCF.5020603@smarc.net> <167503c10804301216k413a323t5054a5a070cbb171@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <167503c10804301225g4ebdac24v1f4e2a75fa5c2c0c@mail.gmail.com> Marc, You can slope the garage door tracks to follow the ceiling contour, I had this done to accommodate my 4-post (BendPak HD9XW). You also don't need much space between the lift and the door. I bought optional aluminum ramps that I just pick up and set on the lift when I need to close the door- the end of the lift itself is ~1 foot from the door. No floor anchors are needed either, in fact casters are an option. If you'd like to take a look, I'm in Northern Virginia (Herndon)- it's a little closer than Grand Rapids! -Larry From smarc at smarc.net Wed Apr 30 13:32:29 2008 From: smarc at smarc.net (Marc) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 15:32:29 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: <167503c10804301216k413a323t5054a5a070cbb171@mail.gmail.com> References: <37405.198.103.167.20.1209568599.squirrel@new.host.name> <4818BDCF.5020603@smarc.net> <167503c10804301216k413a323t5054a5a070cbb171@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4818C94D.6090002@smarc.net> Hi - The ceiling slopes from left to right, not back to front. Good idea though! Herndon is about an hour & a half from here. I have to go there occasionally to lay hands on some servers and stuff we have over at Cogent... That Bendpak looks nice... what did it set you back? Marc Larry Spector wrote: > Marc, > > You can slope the garage door tracks to follow the ceiling contour, I > had this done to accommodate my 4-post (BendPak HD9XW). You also don't > need much space between the lift and the door. I bought optional > aluminum ramps that I just pick up and set on the lift when I need to > close the door- the end of the lift itself is ~1 foot from the door. > No floor anchors are needed either, in fact casters are an option. > > If you'd like to take a look, I'm in Northern Virginia (Herndon)- it's > a little closer than Grand Rapids! > > -Larry From mikey at b2systems.com Wed Apr 30 13:33:40 2008 From: mikey at b2systems.com (Mike Rambour) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 12:33:40 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: <4818C60F.4090605@smarc.net> References: <37405.198.103.167.20.1209568599.squirrel@new.host.name> <4818BB99.1020200@b2systems.com> <4818BE26.7000601@smarc.net> <4818C51D.3030504@b2systems.com> <4818C60F.4090605@smarc.net> Message-ID: <4818C994.2030703@b2systems.com> Ok, now you are trying to expose a pattern of my UNsafeness :) I own a Perfect Park lift, yes the very same brand that a few years ago had a lift failure and dropped a Corvette onto another Corvette (no big loss to the car world in my opinion). Its the only lift failure I have seen on the net and although I am sure it happens more often than we would like to hear about its the only one I know of. You can see pics of it in the Backyard Buddy advert they ran a few months ago (maybe still are). The manufacturer sells the lift under many names and they were all fixed with a "kit" that consisted of a hand written note, a drill bit, a chunk of steel plate and a few bolts. Its fixed in the latest versions of course and this was only a issue on the older lifts (9-10 years ago). I would not and will not get rid of mine, I find it perfectly safe since I know what happened and look out for it even with their fix. If I were to buy a lift nowdays I would look at Bend-Pak over Backyard Buddy although BB is a great lift, the Bend-Pak one seems better engineered to me. Like I said, my Perfect Park is here to stay however and I regularly use it. My Dino is under it right now although a week ago I noticed my Singer leaked oil onto the Dino, might have to move it, not for safety but for oil on the paintwork. mike Marc wrote: > I tend to be overly cautious, perhaps they *are* perfectly safe. But, > I just don't feel comfortable with the mid-rise. Could be lack of > experience too... > > Which 4 post lift do you have? > > Marc > > > > Mike Rambour wrote: >> >> >> Ok, not sure why they would but ok, some people are also afraid of >> roller coasters and I don't understand why they are. >> >> Scary to me was when the motor came out of the Ferrari Dino and all >> that weight on the rear end was gone but the front end did not fall >> to the floor. I did see the pics of the Lotus Elise that fell off one >> of these at a tire shop right about the time the Dino was on the >> lift. People use these all the time, including me. Like I said on >> this list a few weeks ago, just because people do it everyday does >> not mean its safe, I guess I was right. >> >> Anyway, to each his own, I am not offended I was merely suggesting >> other options, I will keep using mine. >> >> mike >> >> Marc wrote: >>> I've seen one of those used, and frankly, it scares the hell out of me! >>> >>> Marc >>> >>> >>> >>> Mike Rambour wrote: >>> >>>> $1,600 gets you one of these >>>> http://www.asedeals.com/mid_rise_lift.html if you really don't have >>>> the space but want to work on the car, I would rather have one of >>>> these then the quicklift. >>>> >>>> Its not very useful for doing gearbox work as you can't get under >>>> that part of the car easily, that is when a true lift comes in >>>> handy and when the quicklift might work well but I would just go >>>> for a 4-post and be done with it. >>>> >>>> mike (disclaimer, I have both a mid-rise scissor and 4-post so >>>> I am biased towards them) From smarc at smarc.net Wed Apr 30 13:38:39 2008 From: smarc at smarc.net (Marc) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 15:38:39 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: <4818C994.2030703@b2systems.com> References: <37405.198.103.167.20.1209568599.squirrel@new.host.name> <4818BB99.1020200@b2systems.com> <4818BE26.7000601@smarc.net> <4818C51D.3030504@b2systems.com> <4818C60F.4090605@smarc.net> <4818C994.2030703@b2systems.com> Message-ID: <4818CABF.404@smarc.net> No comment on the Corvettes, although my pref is LBC's... and old trucks.... Glad to hear of your experience, another data point... BTW, is the Perfect Park anchored to the floor? Oh, and why not give the Singer a litter box ( drip pan) ;-) Marc Mike Rambour wrote: > > > Ok, now you are trying to expose a pattern of my UNsafeness :) > > I own a Perfect Park lift, yes the very same brand that a few years > ago had a lift failure and dropped a Corvette onto another Corvette > (no big loss to the car world in my opinion). Its the only lift > failure I have seen on the net and although I am sure it happens more > often than we would like to hear about its the only one I know of. > You can see pics of it in the Backyard Buddy advert they ran a few > months ago (maybe still are). The manufacturer sells the lift under > many names and they were all fixed with a "kit" that consisted of a > hand written note, a drill bit, a chunk of steel plate and a few > bolts. Its fixed in the latest versions of course and this was only a > issue on the older lifts (9-10 years ago). > > I would not and will not get rid of mine, I find it perfectly safe > since I know what happened and look out for it even with their fix. > If I were to buy a lift nowdays I would look at Bend-Pak over Backyard > Buddy although BB is a great lift, the Bend-Pak one seems better > engineered to me. Like I said, my Perfect Park is here to stay > however and I regularly use it. My Dino is under it right now > although a week ago I noticed my Singer leaked oil onto the Dino, > might have to move it, not for safety but for oil on the paintwork. > > mike From lspector at gmail.com Wed Apr 30 13:48:07 2008 From: lspector at gmail.com (Larry Spector) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 15:48:07 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: <4818C994.2030703@b2systems.com> References: <37405.198.103.167.20.1209568599.squirrel@new.host.name> <4818BB99.1020200@b2systems.com> <4818BE26.7000601@smarc.net> <4818C51D.3030504@b2systems.com> <4818C60F.4090605@smarc.net> <4818C994.2030703@b2systems.com> Message-ID: <167503c10804301248g52e3a55ej2346ca2372c3fd9b@mail.gmail.com> Oil's not TOO terrible. My MR2 decided to leak gasoline onto the Acura parked under it a couple of months ago, boy did that stink!... It was my own fault- I had undone the fuel lines and forgotten to loosen the gas cap. It got warm in the garage and physics took over... BTW- computer equipment rack side-panels work great as drip pans, as long as they're positioned correctly (mine weren't!). I got mine for free when we decommissioned some machines. -Larry On Wed, Apr 30, 2008 at 3:33 PM, Mike Rambour wrote: > My Dino is under it right now although a week ago I noticed my Singer > leaked oil onto the Dino, might have to move it, not for safety but for oil > on the paintwork. > > mike From parkanzky at gmail.com Wed Apr 30 14:05:42 2008 From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 16:05:42 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: <4818BDCF.5020603@smarc.net> References: <37405.198.103.167.20.1209568599.squirrel@new.host.name> <4818BDCF.5020603@smarc.net> Message-ID: On Wed, Apr 30, 2008 at 2:43 PM, Marc wrote: > Paul - Is the Direct Lift the one that BackYard Buddy talks down all the > time? BTW, I appreciate the offer, but I'm in Maryland.... > > Marc I'm looking at the page here: http://www.backyardbuddy.com/auto-lift-comparison.asp And while that lift is similar to mine, the locking system is completely different and my posts are much thicker material than those. My lift does have a flow restrictor. On mine, there is a 'lock ladder' that sits inside the legs. It is a thick piece of steel with holes cut out for the locks to engage. The lift automatically locks when lowered if the lock handle is not pulled. Also, the lock automatically engages if there is slack on the cable at any corner. It does not need to be bolted to the floor. Mine is not. I feel completely safe working under it. It is extremely solid and the design is relatively fool-proof. As I said, I think mine has been discontinued, but I see that the Pro Park 8S columns are under 7' and that includes the cable mounts in the top. You'd have to look at if you can get your truck on there. One thing to consider/remember is that the lift comes with casters and it's extremely easy to move around. If the posts clear your door opening you can roll it out into the drive to give you more clearance underneath if you wanted it for a quick job. No financial interest in any of this, I just can't see buying the Kwik-Lift when a 4-post does everything it does better. You still won't be able to lift a car that high with your ceiling height (and even less if the door is up), but at least it is higher and you have open access from the sides. Good luck. Since I got the lift I have kicked myself for not having it a long time ago! -Paul From smarc at smarc.net Wed Apr 30 14:06:22 2008 From: smarc at smarc.net (Marc) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 16:06:22 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: <4818CABF.404@smarc.net> References: <37405.198.103.167.20.1209568599.squirrel@new.host.name> <4818BB99.1020200@b2systems.com> <4818BE26.7000601@smarc.net> <4818C51D.3030504@b2systems.com> <4818C60F.4090605@smarc.net> <4818C994.2030703@b2systems.com> <4818CABF.404@smarc.net> Message-ID: <4818D13E.7040301@smarc.net> Anyone familar with the Danmar lift? Looks like some of the others (Perfect Park?)... Marc From lspector at gmail.com Wed Apr 30 13:40:07 2008 From: lspector at gmail.com (Larry Spector) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 15:40:07 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: <4818C94D.6090002@smarc.net> References: <37405.198.103.167.20.1209568599.squirrel@new.host.name> <4818BDCF.5020603@smarc.net> <167503c10804301216k413a323t5054a5a070cbb171@mail.gmail.com> <4818C94D.6090002@smarc.net> Message-ID: <167503c10804301240q7ca3baa1s54f76a67dc7afcd4@mail.gmail.com> The lift itself was a bit over 3k shipped from asedeals.com, but the normal height version is ~$500 less. Let me know if you want to check it out the next time you're in the area. -Larry On Wed, Apr 30, 2008 at 3:32 PM, Marc wrote: > Hi - > > The ceiling slopes from left to right, not back to front. Good idea > though! Herndon is about an hour & a half from here. I have to go there > occasionally to lay hands on some servers and stuff we have over at > Cogent... > > That Bendpak looks nice... what did it set you back? > > Marc > > > > > Larry Spector wrote: > > > Marc, > > > > You can slope the garage door tracks to follow the ceiling contour, I > > had this done to accommodate my 4-post (BendPak HD9XW). You also don't need > > much space between the lift and the door. I bought optional aluminum ramps > > that I just pick up and set on the lift when I need to close the door- the > > end of the lift itself is ~1 foot from the door. No floor anchors are needed > > either, in fact casters are an option. > > > > If you'd like to take a look, I'm in Northern Virginia (Herndon)- it's a > > little closer than Grand Rapids! > > > > -Larry From Tim.Mullen at ngc.com Wed Apr 30 14:12:58 2008 From: Tim.Mullen at ngc.com (Mullen, Tim) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 15:12:58 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: <4818C51D.3030504@b2systems.com> References: <37405.198.103.167.20.1209568599.squirrel@new.host.name><4818BB99.1020200@b2systems.com> <4818BE26.7000601@smarc.net> <4818C51D.3030504@b2systems.com> Message-ID: <9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C797013F8DA7@XMBIL103.northgrum.com> Mike Rambour wrote: > > I did see the pics of the Lotus Elise that fell off one of > these at a tire shop The Elise was not the fault of the lift, but of the idiots that were using it. They were told how to lift the Elise, and they ignored it. The lift was a commercial lift and quite strong - there was nothing on the lift that failed. The idiots at the tire shop just used it wrong. The owner of the car even provided copies of the jacking instruction including diagrams of where to jack the car - and more importantly where not to jack the car. They ignored it and did it their way. They bought him a new Elise as they totaled the one on the lift. There are marked jacking points under the Elise. Unfortunately, the rear ones that are exposed (and the tire shop used) are the balance point of the car - those spots are meant to lift the entire side of the car with the other side on the ground. (The actual rear jacking points are covered by the under-tray that must be removed prior to jacking the car. The idiots lifted the car using the balance points so the weight was 50-50 on the "rear" lift points. Then when they removed the front tire, the car was suddenly rear end heavy and fell of the lift backward. Tim Mullen Chantilly, VA From mikey at b2systems.com Wed Apr 30 14:13:38 2008 From: mikey at b2systems.com (Mike Rambour) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 13:13:38 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: <4818CABF.404@smarc.net> References: <37405.198.103.167.20.1209568599.squirrel@new.host.name> <4818BB99.1020200@b2systems.com> <4818BE26.7000601@smarc.net> <4818C51D.3030504@b2systems.com> <4818C60F.4090605@smarc.net> <4818C994.2030703@b2systems.com> <4818CABF.404@smarc.net> Message-ID: <4818D2F2.1010506@b2systems.com> No the Perfect Park is not anchored. I even purchased the caster option for it which I found out later was a good idea. In my town a lift anchored to the floor is commercial equipment and I would need a permit which I could not get for a residential area, with the casters available (not even installed, just available) its homeowner equipment and no permit is needed. I only found this out 2 years later when the inspector was over to sign off on a house remodel that we did, he was looking over my cars and just mentioned that I should keep the casters handy. I have used the casters they work quite well, I can take it out on a sunny day and work in the driveway (with a few mods to the garage door header to get an extra 1.5"). The Singer has 3 drip pans, it is British after all but it found a entirely new place to leak oil from and missed the litter box. mike Marc wrote: > No comment on the Corvettes, although my pref is LBC's... and old > trucks.... > > Glad to hear of your experience, another data point... BTW, is the > Perfect Park anchored to the floor? Oh, and why not give the Singer a > litter box ( drip pan) ;-) > > Marc > > > > Mike Rambour wrote: >> >> >> Ok, now you are trying to expose a pattern of my UNsafeness :) >> >> I own a Perfect Park lift, yes the very same brand that a few years >> ago had a lift failure and dropped a Corvette onto another Corvette >> (no big loss to the car world in my opinion). Its the only lift >> failure I have seen on the net and although I am sure it happens more >> often than we would like to hear about its the only one I know of. >> You can see pics of it in the Backyard Buddy advert they ran a few >> months ago (maybe still are). The manufacturer sells the lift under >> many names and they were all fixed with a "kit" that consisted of a >> hand written note, a drill bit, a chunk of steel plate and a few >> bolts. Its fixed in the latest versions of course and this was only >> a issue on the older lifts (9-10 years ago). >> >> I would not and will not get rid of mine, I find it perfectly safe >> since I know what happened and look out for it even with their fix. >> If I were to buy a lift nowdays I would look at Bend-Pak over >> Backyard Buddy although BB is a great lift, the Bend-Pak one seems >> better engineered to me. Like I said, my Perfect Park is here to >> stay however and I regularly use it. My Dino is under it right now >> although a week ago I noticed my Singer leaked oil onto the Dino, >> might have to move it, not for safety but for oil on the paintwork. >> >> mike From eric at megageek.com Wed Apr 30 14:11:45 2008 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 16:11:45 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands Message-ID: I wouldn't trade my bend pak for anything! It's great. Works great and is never "in the way." Here are pics of the installation in my garage... Here is a pic of a Jeep on it. You can see how the doors, wheels and everything is completely accessable... It was only about $2300 delivered to my door. Moose "We all know we're dying, And there's no sign of a parachute." Tori Amos From mikey at b2systems.com Wed Apr 30 14:24:24 2008 From: mikey at b2systems.com (Mike Rambour) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 13:24:24 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: References: <37405.198.103.167.20.1209568599.squirrel@new.host.name> <4818BDCF.5020603@smarc.net> Message-ID: <4818D578.6000405@b2systems.com> That lift they compare looks like the Perfect Park and many others. I was not going to post this since I actually like Backyard Buddy but there was a reason when I said my next lift (IF there ever was a next) would a Bend Pak. Of course you have to take everything with a grain of salt, the link below that you posted was done by Backyard Buddy so of course they like their lift and of course it is much better then the competition. Here is a equivalent piece of propaganda but this time from Bend-Pak's point of view vs. Backyard Buddy. http://www.metro-lifts.com/backyardbuddy_BendPak_compare.pdf Mike Paul Parkanzky wrote: > On Wed, Apr 30, 2008 at 2:43 PM, Marc wrote: > >> Paul - Is the Direct Lift the one that BackYard Buddy talks down all the >> time? BTW, I appreciate the offer, but I'm in Maryland.... >> >> Marc >> > > I'm looking at the page here: > > http://www.backyardbuddy.com/auto-lift-comparison.asp From parkanzky at gmail.com Wed Apr 30 14:29:26 2008 From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 16:29:26 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: <4818D13E.7040301@smarc.net> References: <37405.198.103.167.20.1209568599.squirrel@new.host.name> <4818BB99.1020200@b2systems.com> <4818BE26.7000601@smarc.net> <4818C51D.3030504@b2systems.com> <4818C60F.4090605@smarc.net> <4818C994.2030703@b2systems.com> <4818CABF.404@smarc.net> <4818D13E.7040301@smarc.net> Message-ID: I'm not. My recommendation would be to find a distributor with a showroom. I purchased mine from Greg Smith Equipment (Or something like that). Their main location is in Indianapolis, so my car buddy and I surprised my wife and his girlfriend with a weekend in Indianapolis (Oh, and we're going to swing by this place and look around for a bit... ;). It was nice because they sell both the Direct Lift and the BendPak lifts, and they had about a dozen lifts setup in their showroom (A few with cars, trucks, or motorcycles on them). That allowed me to see what you get for the extra money you spend on a BendPak and decide whether it was worth it to me. My finding (and others may see it differently) is that the Direct Lift and the BendPak were very similar in 'toughness,' but that the BendPak had much better finish. Carefully ground welds and smoother, more uniform powder coating. The BendPak was definitely nicer, but I decided that the Direct Lift did the same job and basically just as well for way less money. If I were going to be using this primarily for storage so that I could put my Ferrari over my Lamborghini in my flashy garage then I would probably spring for the BendPak or Rotary. For something I'm going to beat up and use to turn wrenches I kind of like not having to worry about scratching it up. -Paul On Wed, Apr 30, 2008 at 4:06 PM, Marc wrote: > Anyone familar with the Danmar lift? Looks like some of the others > (Perfect Park?)... > > Marc From mikey at b2systems.com Wed Apr 30 14:32:40 2008 From: mikey at b2systems.com (Mike Rambour) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 13:32:40 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: <9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C797013F8DA7@XMBIL103.northgrum.com> References: <37405.198.103.167.20.1209568599.squirrel@new.host.name><4818BB99.1020200@b2systems.com> <4818BE26.7000601@smarc.net> <4818C51D.3030504@b2systems.com> <9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C797013F8DA7@XMBIL103.northgrum.com> Message-ID: <4818D768.1050305@b2systems.com> Wait, wait...don't get mad at me !!! I know that it was the fault of the staff and not the lift, I was considering a Elise at the time and I know it was not the lifts fault. I was agreeing with Marc that the lift could be dangerous IF proper common sense was not followed, not that there was anything wrong with the lift. That lift was a mid-rise Bend-Pak the exact same lift that at the same time my Dino was on and that 2 of my friends Elise's had been on a few times already. The Elise is the same configuration of the Ferrari Dino so I was a little concerned when the motor came out that it would unbalanced and fall off the front, it did not (maybe I am not a idiot at some tire shop). Also my FIAT Dino (front engine) has been on that lift often, I think the lifts are safe but they could be dangerous without common sense. mike Mullen, Tim wrote: > Mike Rambour wrote: > >> I did see the pics of the Lotus Elise that fell off one of >> these at a tire shop >> > > The Elise was not the fault of the lift, but of the idiots that were > using it. > > They were told how to lift the Elise, and they ignored it. > > The lift was a commercial lift and quite strong - there was nothing on > the lift that failed. The idiots at the tire shop just used it wrong. > The owner of the car even provided copies of the jacking instruction > including diagrams of where to jack the car - and more importantly where > not to jack the car. They ignored it and did it their way. They bought > him a new Elise as they totaled the one on the lift. > > There are marked jacking points under the Elise. Unfortunately, the > rear ones that are exposed (and the tire shop used) are the balance > point of the car - those spots are meant to lift the entire side of the > car with the other side on the ground. (The actual rear jacking points > are covered by the under-tray that must be removed prior to jacking the > car. > > The idiots lifted the car using the balance points so the weight was > 50-50 on the "rear" lift points. Then when they removed the front tire, > the car was suddenly rear end heavy and fell of the lift backward. > > Tim Mullen > > Chantilly, VA From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 30 15:41:23 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 14:41:23 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] a question on portable air tanks In-Reply-To: <9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C797013F8CED@XMBIL103.northgrum.com> References: <481894EF.8050303@landform.co.uk><2400a5d40804300957r198415ffhef1b248a7fede14@mail.gmail.com> <9C2F69BA6FB69F43ABCDBCFFC282C797013F8CED@XMBIL103.northgrum.com> Message-ID: <022c01c8ab0a$ef78c070$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Get rid of the Freon bottle. That's what I used for years, then one > weekend Sears had a nice 10 gallon red tank on sale for > around $20. It > was worth it. It holds more air, is easy to use, and even > has a safety > pop off valve. My old Freon bottle has a pop-off valve (integrated with the $7 conversion kit from JCW), and is much easier to carry through doors. It also has that nifty shutoff valve, which means I can air up the car tires (once) without having to fire up the compressor and wait for it to build pressure. Plus the cheap red tank rusted out years ago ... Randall From jem at milleredp.com Wed Apr 30 15:52:28 2008 From: jem at milleredp.com (John Miller) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 14:52:28 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: <4818D578.6000405@b2systems.com> References: <37405.198.103.167.20.1209568599.squirrel@new.host.name> <4818BDCF.5020603@smarc.net> <4818D578.6000405@b2systems.com> Message-ID: <4818EA1C.3060000@milleredp.com> > Here is a equivalent piece of propaganda but this time from Bend-Pak's > point of view vs. Backyard Buddy. > > http://www.metro-lifts.com/backyardbuddy_BendPak_compare.pdf Fun reading. I've got a Bend-Pak HD-9ST, it's been in use for about four months now. Whole new approach to life...wanna do a trans and diff oil change before dinner? Trivial. Muffler hanger coming loose? Drop the exhaust, weld it under the car, push it back up. There's the old two-vs-four-post argument, but I needed it as much for parking as for wrenching. Comments on Bend-Pak's design - overall I don't see a lot to gripe about. I'm about to replace their flaky little coiled-plastic air hose that runs from the motor/valve to the ramp plumbing with something that'll run along with the hydraulic hoses. The hoses tend to snag on the hydraulic reservoir during lifting if you don't watch what you're doing, when I do the air hose I'll add a little spring and a sleeve to keep the hydraulic hoses away from the reservoir. And it doesn't look like the cable-sheave axles in the cross-beams can be greased without tearing the whole lift down and pulling out the axles. Biggest gripe is that the end brackets on the cross-beams that house all the lock hardware are bulky, and stick up above the ramps - kind of a sidewall-shaving knife, and it's too easy to tear up a tire or wheel on the edge. I've now got a gouge in the M5's right front tire and I have to issue the spouse an apology for grumbling about her curbing the freshly-refinished wheel in one of the other cars when it appears it was really my doing. So you need to hang your head out the window and make very sure of what you're doing as you drive up; I've got some metal cut to make up some angled guards for those corners but haven't done so yet. Mine isn't presently bolted down; I'll put some inserts in the floor and anchor it eventually, once I'm absolutely sure of where I want it. John. From jem at milleredp.com Wed Apr 30 15:56:43 2008 From: jem at milleredp.com (John Miller) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 14:56:43 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4818EB1B.9070701@milleredp.com> > Here are pics of the installation in my garage... > That's not a garage, that's a stadium. At least by my 22x22-chunk-of-suburbia standards. John. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 30 20:09:40 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 19:09:40 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack bleeding In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080501021006.UYEL19888.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > Can someone explain the fundamentals of jack hydraulics to > me? I want to bleed the thing, but I don't have a decent > picture in my head of where the air is, how the hyraulics > work, how to bleed it well, etc. etc. In case Nolan's link doesn't do it for you ... there is an inner pressure cylinder inside the part you see (which is just the reservoir and support for the inner cylinder). The pump is a simple, small diameter piston with two check valves, one for inlet and one for outlet, that moves oil from the outer cylinder into the inner cylinder. As noted, most jacks can be adequately bled by making sure they are full, then raising to full height (with no load) and lowering. However, I have seen some that require being held in a special position so the air is forced back into the reservoir. But I don't know any way to determine if your jack requires that, except to either ask the maker/retailer; or just try holding the jack with the release valve at the top while you compress the piston. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 30 20:09:41 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 19:09:41 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] a question on portable air tanks In-Reply-To: <481894EF.8050303@landform.co.uk> Message-ID: <20080501021011.UYFO19888.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > Looking at the underside the > other day I noticed " Discard after Mar 2007" stamped in the > metal. Are the manufacturers covering themselves against > abuse and neglect or do these things have a measurable > lifespan? I believe they do have a lifespan, but it's not accurately measured in months. So the manufacturer is mostly CYA, by estimating the shortest possible lifespan. I still use a tank that is over 30 years old, kept under pressure and only drained when I can feel it slosh. Likely it's a risk, but then so is walking out my front door every day, so ... Randall From markmiller at threeboysfarm.com Wed Apr 30 21:49:46 2008 From: markmiller at threeboysfarm.com (Mark Miller) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 20:49:46 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] lifts (was: jack stands) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <009501c8ab3e$66d905c0$6400a8c0@OFFICEPC> I've always been intrigued by these: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=33795 Anyone have one? Or better yet, a pair to make a low rise lift? And yes, I think a set of very well made jack stands would make a lot of sense with them. I am embarrassed to say, but I bought a 4 post lift (spin: but honey, it's way cheaper to make a tall one car garage and buy a lift than build a 2 car garage), didn't get it installed right away due to family emergencies, and it is now buried in the crap in my garage. This summer the garage will be cleaned out, it will get assembled, and I will love it. And can plop two cars in the small garage. Mark Miller Sebastopol, CA From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Wed Apr 30 21:58:24 2008 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 23:58:24 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] jack stands References: <37405.198.103.167.20.1209568599.squirrel@new.host.name> Message-ID: <035001c8ab3f$9b321860$45247247@fred8kwiskhcfu> I had a back hoe carve out a 7 ft deep, 3 ft wide and 22 ft long "pit" in the floor of my garage with steps to walk down and under any size car, cost me a total of $1200. and I think the best money I have ever invested, gosh does it make it easy to do all underside of the cars. "FT" ======================================================================================================= ----- Original Message ----- From: "Trevor Boicey" To: "Mark Andy" Cc: Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 11:16 AM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] jack stands >> higher, even though you wouldn't have the clearance to be able to stand >> under the vehicle in most residential garages. > > Worth chiming in, I don't consider this a real minus... > > I have a hoist in my garage, and I've moved from a house with "medium" > clearance to one with "lower" clearance. > > I find I am more comfortable sitting on a rolling chair under the car > than standing. I'm pretty sure I don't work as fast as a pro mechanic so > I like to be comfortable. > > The other upside is that the entire floor becomes your tool tray, > everything is within reach. > > The main downside is that when you need a new tool, you have to hunch > over to get to the tool chest... > > Overall though, sitting beats standing for me... > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > You are subscribed as res8vz9q at verizon.net > > Shop-talk mailing list > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk > > http://www.team.net/archive From kvacek at ameritech.net Wed Apr 30 22:31:19 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 23:31:19 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] lifts (was: jack stands) References: <009501c8ab3e$66d905c0$6400a8c0@OFFICEPC> Message-ID: <000f01c8ab44$3494c530$6e01a8c0@KARL> Used to be that every gas station had one or two of those around, though they were mostly arranged to lift on the bumpers then. > I've always been intrigued by these: > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=33795