From jamesf at groupwbench.org Sat Jun 16 22:18:44 2007 From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2007 00:18:44 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Levelling bookcases In-Reply-To: <20070617000325.YVAK28813.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> References: <20070617000325.YVAK28813.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <1C44237D-9A5B-468C-AD51-F1BE0D9C738D@groupwbench.org> On Jun 16, 2007, at 8:03 PM, Randall wrote: > > An oddball suggestion : Why not trim the bookcases to match the > floor ? > Shim them up temporarily, then use a pencil & spacer block to mark > the edge > up from the floor and trim away the excess wood. I'm far too lazy to stage them, mark the location and re-place for scribing. :-) (The same goes for making a false floor- it'd be nice & stable but I don't have the tools or patience to make one that'd look nice enough. ) Besides, they're essentially chipboard so they'd likely crumble if I tried to get fancy with the jigsaw. And it'd be a slight compound curve, the floor that curved. Much easier to shim. I like the plastic shim idea, I'll hunt around. I've seen the door frame sized plastic ones. I think birch is still too soft and will compress. Thanks for all the ideas. Just making sure there wasn't a "oak shims for bookcases" product I was missing out on. jim From shannah at pobox.com Sun Jun 17 00:13:14 2007 From: shannah at pobox.com (Shannah Miller) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2007 23:13:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Need Generator Help Message-ID: <13490.70140.qm@web510.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi, I have an LP gas generator that is having some problems. I was running it, and it was running just fine, no funny noises, nothing. Then, it just stopped. It sounded like I had just shut it off. I checked the propane, and it had well over half a tank, according to the guage. Still, it wouldn't start. So, I filled the tank completely, and it still doesn't start. It's an Onan (3600 I believe), if that helps. Does anyone have any idea what might be wrong with it? I realize I'll probably have to take it to the shop, but would like to have some clue what to expect. If you can coach me through fixing it myself, that would be heavenly. Thanks so much! Shannah From jamesf at groupwbench.org Sun Jun 17 04:27:52 2007 From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2007 06:27:52 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Need Generator Help In-Reply-To: <13490.70140.qm@web510.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <13490.70140.qm@web510.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8A81DD89-1110-44E5-AC8E-3292579B90F5@groupwbench.org> On Jun 17, 2007, at 2:13 AM, Shannah Miller wrote: > Hi, > > I have an LP gas generator that is having > some problems. > > I was running it, and it was running just > fine, no funny noises, nothing. Then, it > just stopped. It sounded like I had just > shut it off. Is it for your house, RV, ??? You checked that none of the on/off switches got turned off accidentally or that no safetly mechanisms were tripped? Spark plug wire or other wire didn't vibrate or get cut by an annoyed person? Try basic small engine troubleshooting first, then move on to generator-specific troubleshooting, for which you'll likely need the exact model number. There may be some help available here: http://www.cumminsonan.com/ jim From stevie_g at swampfoxcustoms.com Sun Jun 17 05:39:46 2007 From: stevie_g at swampfoxcustoms.com (Stevie G) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2007 07:39:46 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Leveling bookcases In-Reply-To: <20070617000325.YVAK28813.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <000001c7b0d4$35500360$0201a8c0@matrix22> Same way you fit a countertop, right? -----Original Message----- From: shop-talk-owner at Autox.Team.Net [mailto:shop-talk-owner at Autox.Team.Net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 8:03 PM To: 'Shop Talk' Subject: RE: Levelling bookcases > I need > something that will "disappear" under the doubled up 1x > supports of the bookcases. > Softwood shims are too soft and are wider than what they need > to support. Any idea what would work here? An oddball suggestion : Why not trim the bookcases to match the floor ? Shim them up temporarily, then use a pencil & spacer block to mark the edge up from the floor and trim away the excess wood. Randall From stevie_g at swampfoxcustoms.com Sun Jun 17 05:52:22 2007 From: stevie_g at swampfoxcustoms.com (Stevie G) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2007 07:52:22 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Need Generator Help In-Reply-To: <13490.70140.qm@web510.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000601c7b0d5$f7944340$0201a8c0@matrix22> Check out your fuel supply. Make sure you have flow through the supply solenoid valve (I'm guessing there is an electrically operated shutoff in the supply). After it has sat for a while, does it start again...then maybe shut off? This would be a sign of moisture in the propane freezing as it goes through the expansion orifice. Speaking of the orifice, something may have plugged it. The system is closed and should be clean but I see it happen in home furnaces, so why not a generator. From ejrussell at mebtel.net Sun Jun 17 06:45:52 2007 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (ejrussell at mebtel.net) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2007 00:45:52 -1200 Subject: [Shop-talk] Levelling bookcases Message-ID: <46752d00.37c.14019.738502542@ml2.myemail.com> Is there enough thickness in the bottom of the shelves to install some tee-nuts and then screw in bolts as adjustable levelers? I doubt that even pine shims would be too soft. If you are convinced that they'd compress you could slightly over compensate as you install the shims. Are the backs of the shelves strong? You could screw through the backs into the wall studs. I suppose the walls are not plumb either... Eric Russell Mebane, NC > I'm far too lazy to stage them, mark the location and > re-place for scribing. :-) > (The same goes for making a false floor- it'd be nice & > stable but I don't have the tools or patience to make > one that'd look nice enough. ) > > Besides, they're essentially chipboard so they'd likely > crumble if I tried to get fancy with the jigsaw. And > it'd be a slight compound curve, the floor that curved. > Much easier to shim. > > I like the plastic shim idea, I'll hunt around. I've seen > the door frame sized plastic ones. > > I think birch is still too soft and will compress. > > Thanks for all the ideas. Just making sure there wasn't a > "oak shims for bookcases" product I was missing out on. > > jim Login from home, work, school. Anywhere! From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 17 14:25:58 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2007 13:25:58 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Levelling bookcases In-Reply-To: <46752d00.37c.14019.738502542@ml2.myemail.com> Message-ID: <20070617202557.QBMI28396.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> > Are the backs of the shelves strong? You could screw through > the backs into the wall studs. Guess I've lived in Shaky Town for far too long ... for me, that goes without saying We have bookcases on both sides of the head of the bed in the master bedroom. My wife (who grew up in the midwest) thought it would be OK to have books on the top of her bookcase ... until we were on the fringes of a quake and 2-3 books toppled off onto her pillow. Fortunately she wasn't in bed at the time; but she got the message. But rather than screwing through the back (which usually isn't very strong); I always use angle brackets bolted through the top shelf. Randall From bjzwissler at comcast.net Sun Jun 17 17:14:47 2007 From: bjzwissler at comcast.net (Ben Zwissler) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2007 19:14:47 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Need Generator Help In-Reply-To: <13490.70140.qm@web510.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20070617231507.5C1EF187A0A@autox.team.net> Did you check the oil level? Many generators have a low oil shutoff to protect the engine from damage. Ben..... > -----Original Message----- > From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Shannah Miller > Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 2:13 AM > To: shop-talk at autox.team.net > Subject: [Shop-talk] Need Generator Help > > Hi, > > I have an LP gas generator that is having some problems. > > I was running it, and it was running just fine, no funny > noises, nothing. Then, it just stopped. It sounded like I > had just shut it off. > > I checked the propane, and it had well over half a tank, > according to the guage. Still, it wouldn't start. > > So, I filled the tank completely, and it still doesn't start. > > It's an Onan (3600 I believe), if that helps. > > Does anyone have any idea what might be > wrong with it? I realize I'll probably > have to take it to the shop, but would > like to have some clue what to expect. > If you can coach me through fixing it > myself, that would be heavenly. From jamesf at groupwbench.org Sun Jun 17 18:53:51 2007 From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2007 20:53:51 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Levelling bookcases In-Reply-To: <46752d00.37c.14019.738502542@ml2.myemail.com> References: <46752d00.37c.14019.738502542@ml2.myemail.com> Message-ID: <55800F21-50A8-45D2-8FA0-582B939AAFA3@groupwbench.org> On Jun 17, 2007, at 8:45 AM, ejrussell at mebtel.net wrote: > Is there enough thickness in the bottom of the shelves to > install some tee-nuts and then screw in bolts as adjustable > levelers? I could, but then I'd need something to protect the hardwood floor. Also, I wouldn't be able to reach the ones in the back; there's a plinth covering the space under the bottom shelf. > > Are the backs of the shelves strong? You could screw through > the backs into the wall studs. I suppose the walls are not > plumb either... I did secure the top to the wall, but that's not what I'm after. I'd like as much floor support as possible- leaning it on its heels/toes with 300 lbs of books is going to stress the chipboard. Maybe I'm obsessing over it but I'd like to spread the load as much as I can over the intended support. Looks like homemade oak shims will fit the bill. Initially I didn't think I had the tools but I figured out how to do it. Of course I'll stain and poly them to match the floor because I don't have enough going on :-) On Jun 17, 2007, at 4:25 PM, Randall wrote: > > But rather than screwing through the back (which usually isn't very > strong); > I always use angle brackets bolted through the top shelf. The backs are useless. The sides, slightly better than useless. I anchored the top shelf of each into the wall. I spent a bunch of time up around San Francisco and I'm still in "anchor everything" mode. And it just feels better not to have wobbly shelves. Some pics at: http://www.groupwbench.org/Library/ jim From mikel at ichips.intel.com Mon Jun 18 10:33:00 2007 From: mikel at ichips.intel.com (Mike Lee) Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2007 09:33:00 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Levelling bookcases In-Reply-To: Message from Jim Franklin of "Sat, 16 Jun 2007 16:49:23 EDT." <0F8B3E5C-1501-4A0B-B238-D267DCCADAC0@groupwbench.org> Message-ID: <200706181633.l5IGX0Lj025885@plxc1083.pdx.intel.com> >Here's one for a quiet Saturday. I'm installing a couple of walls' >worth of Ikea bookcases. They will sit on an 80 year old hardwood >floor which is no longer close to level. I need something that will >"disappear" under the doubled up 1x supports of the bookcases. >Softwood shims are too soft and are wider than what they need to >support. Any idea what would work here? Thin hardwood shims would be >ideal but I've never seen them. I have purchased both plastic and "composite" (plastic mixed with wood fiber) shims at Home Depot; those may work for you... From wmgilroy at gmail.com Mon Jun 18 17:20:38 2007 From: wmgilroy at gmail.com (Bill Gilroy) Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2007 16:20:38 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] PV system In-Reply-To: <002c01c7afb0$24e48750$3f347d80@XLH883> References: <002c01c7afb0$24e48750$3f347d80@XLH883> Message-ID: <441250190706181620o1cd8c892ife35c0dfe9535bd9@mail.gmail.com> If you are sending power back onto the grid what happens with downed lines and workmen? I know with generators you have to have a transfer switch so you don't put power back on the grid. How is this handled or is it even an issue? Just wondering. I don't think this would work in Seattle; to many clouds and to many cedar trees right around my house. -g On 6/15/07, old dirtbeard wrote: > > > Meter spinning backwards (it shows 99,546KW then, and was set at 100,00 KW > upon installation, a spin down of almost .5mWh since it was installed on > April 9th -- today it shows 99,445 over a half million watt hours of > surplus). > Edison did not change out our old analogue meter when the system > was installed, and then realized that they could not read it, so we lost a > month of measurement). From dmscheidt at gmail.com Mon Jun 18 17:59:32 2007 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2007 19:59:32 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] PV system In-Reply-To: <441250190706181620o1cd8c892ife35c0dfe9535bd9@mail.gmail.com> References: <002c01c7afb0$24e48750$3f347d80@XLH883> <441250190706181620o1cd8c892ife35c0dfe9535bd9@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <2400a5d40706181659i2e31e97du4cd146f591265831@mail.gmail.com> On 6/18/07, Bill Gilroy wrote: > If you are sending power back onto the grid what happens with downed lines > and workmen? I know with generators you have to have a transfer switch so > you don't put power back on the grid. How is this handled or is it even an > issue? Just wondering. I don't think this would work in Seattle; to many > clouds and to many cedar trees right around my house. > Most places require an automatic disconnect. When the voltage on the grid side drops, the PV system disconnects the inverter output from the grid. -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com From rwil at sbcglobal.net Mon Jun 18 18:16:19 2007 From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2007 17:16:19 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] PV system In-Reply-To: <2400a5d40706181659i2e31e97du4cd146f591265831@mail.gmail.com> References: <002c01c7afb0$24e48750$3f347d80@XLH883> <441250190706181620o1cd8c892ife35c0dfe9535bd9@mail.gmail.com> <2400a5d40706181659i2e31e97du4cd146f591265831@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: a synchronous inverter, which is used in grid-tied systems, requires a 60 hertz signal from the power company in order that its power matches the phase and frequency of that in the lines already. So when the power goes out around the PV equipped home, that home loses power, too. No free lunches with your subsidized system :-) -Roland unsubsidized, not grid tied system on vacation home On Mon, 18 Jun 2007 19:59:32 -0400, you wrote: ::Most places require an automatic disconnect. When the voltage on the ::grid side drops, ::the PV system disconnects the inverter output from the grid. From scott.hall at comcast.net Mon Jun 18 20:26:30 2007 From: scott.hall at comcast.net (scott.hall at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 02:26:30 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] PV system Message-ID: <061920070226.13225.46773ED60008F907000033A9220702455304040E08D29B9B010C9C@comcast.net> wait...that never came up. so you're saying that when the utility loses power (like they're wont to do here) I'm down, too, even with the PV system. nobody mentioned that, and we got fairly involved in discussions. that was a major bennie as we lose power here all the time and the PV system would at least power the a/c during the hottest parts of the day. -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: Roland Wilhelmy > a synchronous inverter, which is used in grid-tied systems, requires > a 60 hertz signal from the power company in order that its power > matches the phase and frequency of that in the lines already. So when > the power goes out around the PV equipped home, that home loses power, > too. No free lunches with your subsidized system :-) From cak at dimebank.com Mon Jun 18 20:34:11 2007 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2007 19:34:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] PV system Message-ID: <200706190234.l5J2YBce031573@moose.dimebank.com> No, you'll just drop your tie to the grid. The inverter will continue to work. From dirtbeard at pacbell.net Mon Jun 18 20:37:40 2007 From: dirtbeard at pacbell.net (old dirtbeard) Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2007 19:37:40 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] PV system References: <200706190234.l5J2YBce031573@moose.dimebank.com> Message-ID: <010301c7b21a$cfb8b130$6600a8c0@XLH883> On a grid tie system, you actually will lose all production capacity, at least here in CA. best, doug ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Kantarjiev" To: ; Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 7:34 PM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] PV system > No, you'll just drop your tie to the grid. > The inverter will continue to work. > _______________________________________________ > dirtbeard at pacbell.net > > Shop-talk mailing list > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk From rwil at sbcglobal.net Mon Jun 18 20:41:09 2007 From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2007 19:41:09 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] PV system In-Reply-To: <200706190234.l5J2YBce031573@moose.dimebank.com> References: <200706190234.l5J2YBce031573@moose.dimebank.com> Message-ID: Must be a new version of the inverters used; I stand corrected. Last time I checked, synchronous inverters needed something to synchronize to in order to work. With no batteries you won't have power when the sun goes down, though. -Roland On Mon, 18 Jun 2007 19:34:11 -0700 (PDT), you wrote: ::No, you'll just drop your tie to the grid. ::The inverter will continue to work. ::_______________________________________________ ::rwil at sbcglobal.net :: ::Shop-talk mailing list :: ::http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk From scott.hall at comcast.net Mon Jun 18 21:06:43 2007 From: scott.hall at comcast.net (scott.hall at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 03:06:43 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] PV system Message-ID: <061920070306.29595.46774843000172560000739B220073436404040E08D29B9B010C9C@comcast.net> yeah, I know about the loss of power at night, and I'd prefer to get the batteries. at the time, though, I was told to get the credits you had to explicitly *not* get a battery setup. and it was much cheaper. I was also told I could add the batteries later if I wanted, which is what I thought I'd do after pocketing the tax credits. I do want to pump power back into the grid (and get the check--we have net metering and the utility will pay you once a year for your surplus), but just as key was the ability to operate when the grid is down. I figured for a lot less money, I could run a smaller generator at night for ceiling fans and the fridge. so long as there's a/c until the sun goes down, we could get by. of course, you apparently lose a/c (off PV only) about 4 p.m., but we have a clear exposure and a good roof pitch (I'm told), so I was hoping for better. suppose it doesn't matter, as soon as I can add the batteries and not forfeit the tax credit, they'd be going in. july in north florida requires a/c 24/7. too bad they don't have hurricanes mostly during february. -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: Roland Wilhelmy > Must be a new version of the inverters used; I stand corrected. Last > time I checked, synchronous inverters needed something to synchronize > to in order to work. > With no batteries you won't have power when the sun goes down, though. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 18 21:17:43 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2007 20:17:43 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] PV system In-Reply-To: <061920070226.13225.46773ED60008F907000033A9220702455304040E08D29B9B010C9C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20070619031741.CBMS28396.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> > wait...that never came up. so you're saying that when the > utility loses power (like they're wont to do here) I'm down, > too, even with the PV system. nobody mentioned that, and we > got fairly involved in discussions. that was a major bennie In that case, I'm sure it wouldn't be too hard to arrange a switch & 60 Hz reference. Whether your utility would approve the arrangement or not is a different matter. Here's a web page describing such a system, with the addition of local storage batteries. http://www.ka9q.net/pv/ I only scanned the page, but didn't see any mention of having to provide a 60 Hz reference when the grid was down. Maybe his inverter is different than Doug's. Randall From jem at milleredp.com Mon Jun 18 23:58:53 2007 From: jem at milleredp.com (John Miller) Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2007 22:58:53 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] PV system In-Reply-To: <20070619031741.CBMS28396.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> References: <20070619031741.CBMS28396.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <4677709D.5050501@milleredp.com> > Here's a web page describing such a system, with the addition of local > storage batteries. > http://www.ka9q.net/pv/ > I only scanned the page, but didn't see any mention of having to provide a > 60 Hz reference when the grid was down. Maybe his inverter is different > than Doug's. Battery-backed systems use different equipment, and *do* stay on line when the utility drops out. You lose a few percent of efficiency with the battery-backed systems, since the panels is essentially a big battery charger, the house feed comes off the batts. John. From jem at milleredp.com Tue Jun 19 00:05:36 2007 From: jem at milleredp.com (John Miller) Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2007 23:05:36 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] PV system In-Reply-To: <200706190234.l5J2YBce031573@moose.dimebank.com> References: <200706190234.l5J2YBce031573@moose.dimebank.com> Message-ID: <46777230.8010801@milleredp.com> Chris Kantarjiev wrote: > No, you'll just drop your tie to the grid. > The inverter will continue to work. Not the SMA Sunny Boy we've got, at least, nor, I think, the Sharp inverters used in a couple later installations I'm familiar with. John. From nases at verizon.net Tue Jun 19 07:40:00 2007 From: nases at verizon.net (Phil Nase) Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 09:40:00 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Garage Floor Message-ID: <000001c7b277$5609e590$2f01a8c0@na.sjcount.com> OK I have the garage sheetrock up and painted and now I'm attacking the floor to prep it for epoxy paint. Its pressure washed, scrubbed 2 times with a commercial degreaser and a third time with TSP. The paint kit I have has included a cleaner, degreaser and etcher solution which I used yesterday. On the concrete floor that has seen little traffic (around the perimeter) the stuff foamed up like it's supposed to. The other parts didn't foam up. So is the etching working on those parts. They instructions say if it isn't foaming it isn't working. I am trying to avoid using Muriatic acid but will if I have to. How do I tell how much etching is enough. Phil Nase Quakertown, PA http://home.comcast.net/~philnasecpa From wmc_st at xxiii.com Tue Jun 19 08:00:49 2007 From: wmc_st at xxiii.com (Wayne) Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 10:00:49 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Garage Floor In-Reply-To: <000001c7b277$5609e590$2f01a8c0@na.sjcount.com> References: <000001c7b277$5609e590$2f01a8c0@na.sjcount.com> Message-ID: <4677E191.2040705@xxiii.com> Phil Nase wrote: > I am trying to avoid using Muriatic acid but will if I have to. How do I > tell how much etching is enough. These are the prep instructions for the stuff I applied: http://www.poloplaz.com/applyharddeck.html There are some good tips in there that are applicable to all concrete prep. Use the muratic acid! Dilute 2 or 3 parts water to 1 acid. Their suggestion of using a flower sprinkler works great! I did the ammonia neutralizer like they specify. Used shop vac to pick up all acis and ammonia, then went back over it with plain water & vac'ed up about 3 times. The cement should be fairly rough - approx like 100 grit sandpaper. -Wayne From scott.hall at comcast.net Tue Jun 19 09:33:31 2007 From: scott.hall at comcast.net (scott.hall at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 15:33:31 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] Garage Floor Message-ID: <061920071533.23645.4677F74B000EEF6F00005C5D220076369204040E08D29B9B010C9C@comcast.net> use the muriatic acid. -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "Phil Nase" > OK I have the garage sheetrock up and painted and now I'm attacking the > floor to prep it for epoxy paint. > > Its pressure washed, scrubbed 2 times with a commercial degreaser and a > third time with TSP. > > The paint kit I have has included a cleaner, degreaser and etcher solution > which I used yesterday. On the concrete floor that has seen little traffic > (around the perimeter) the stuff foamed up like it's supposed to. The other > parts didn't foam up. So is the etching working on those parts. They > instructions say if it isn't foaming it isn't working. From edriver at sasktel.net Tue Jun 19 09:41:00 2007 From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver) Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 09:41:00 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Garage Floor In-Reply-To: <061920071533.23645.4677F74B000EEF6F00005C5D220076369204040E08D29B9B010C9C@comcast.net> References: <061920071533.23645.4677F74B000EEF6F00005C5D220076369204040E08D29B9B010C9C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4677F90C.6030409@sasktel.net> Hi Phil I would say use it Regards Ed scott.hall at comcast.net wrote: > use the muriatic acid. > > -------------- Original message ---------------------- > From: "Phil Nase" > >>OK I have the garage sheetrock up and painted and now I'm attacking the >>floor to prep it for epoxy paint. >> >>Its pressure washed, scrubbed 2 times with a commercial degreaser and a >>third time with TSP. >> >>The paint kit I have has included a cleaner, degreaser and etcher solution >>which I used yesterday. On the concrete floor that has seen little traffic >>(around the perimeter) the stuff foamed up like it's supposed to. The other >>parts didn't foam up. So is the etching working on those parts. They >>instructions say if it isn't foaming it isn't working. From jibjib at att.net Tue Jun 19 18:40:32 2007 From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks) Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 17:40:32 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] PV system In-Reply-To: <441250190706181620o1cd8c892ife35c0dfe9535bd9@mail.gmail.com> References: <002c01c7afb0$24e48750$3f347d80@XLH883> <441250190706181620o1cd8c892ife35c0dfe9535bd9@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <016e01c7b2d3$9ca96820$cb01a8c0@HPPavilion> > I don't think this would work in Seattle; to many clouds and to many cedar trees right around my house. Surprisingly, Seattle is a hotbed of PV and solar research. Probably one of two reasons: 1. Because we hug trees here, 2. Because if you can make solar cost effective here, it'll work anywhere. Jack Covington From strovato at optonline.net Tue Jun 19 18:57:47 2007 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 20:57:47 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Bench Grinder, new grinding wheel In-Reply-To: <4677F90C.6030409@sasktel.net> References: <061920071533.23645.4677F74B000EEF6F00005C5D220076369204040E08D29B9B010C9C@comcast.net> <4677F90C.6030409@sasktel.net> Message-ID: <0JJW004PMTESDOT0@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> The grinding wheel on my Grizzly bench grinder was in need of replacement. It has a 1/2" arbor. At Sears I found an appropriate wheel, but with a larger hole. It comes with three concentric plastic pieces that adapt the hole to smaller sizes. So, I put this all together and the wheel does not seem to be centered. There is enough play in these adapter pieces that I can "adjust" the wheel slightly before I tighten the nut. I can't get it centered well enough like this, though. So, what's the deal here? Is this "one size fits all" concept just a bad idea? I'm thinking I should just go buy a wheel with a 1/2" hole. Is that the way to go, or is there some kind of special trick to this? Thanks. -Steve Trovato strovato at optonline.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 19 19:06:35 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 18:06:35 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Bench Grinder, new grinding wheel In-Reply-To: <0JJW004PMTESDOT0@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> References: <061920071533.23645.4677F74B000EEF6F00005C5D220076369204040E08D29B9B010C9C@comcast.net><4677F90C.6030409@sasktel.net> <0JJW004PMTESDOT0@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Message-ID: <082c01c7b2d7$3f9f5d70$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > There is > enough play in these adapter pieces that I can "adjust" the wheel > slightly before I tighten the nut. Then either the plastic pieces or the wheel are defective, IMO. I have the same setup from Enco, and mine fit snugly. > Is that the way to go, or is there > some kind of special trick to this? The wheel should be snug on the arbor. However, IMO it's fairly normal for a new wheel to not run perfectly true, and need to be dressed after installation. At least for a grinder with a 1/2" arbor and any wheel you're likely to find at Sears Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From roadsters at hornesystemstx.com Tue Jun 19 19:11:51 2007 From: roadsters at hornesystemstx.com (Pat Horne) Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 20:11:51 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Bench Grinder, new grinding wheel In-Reply-To: <0JJW004PMTESDOT0@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> References: <061920071533.23645.4677F74B000EEF6F00005C5D220076369204040E08D29B9B010C9C@comcast.net> <4677F90C.6030409@sasktel.net> <0JJW004PMTESDOT0@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Message-ID: <46787ED7.8000500@hornesystemstx.com> Steve, I vote for getting a half inch bore wheel. If you have a wheel truing tool you could try to make it concentric that way also, but I would first try the correct wheel, then true if necessary. I don't know what kind of material you grind, but I would suspect that any wheel purchased at Sears would not be a very high quality wheel. This is just a guess though, I haven't been in a Sears store in over 10 years. Peace, Pat Thusly spake Steven Trovato: > The grinding wheel on my Grizzly bench grinder was in need of > replacement. It has a 1/2" arbor. At Sears I found an appropriate > wheel, but with a larger hole. It comes with three concentric > plastic pieces that adapt the hole to smaller sizes. So, I put this > all together and the wheel does not seem to be centered. There is > enough play in these adapter pieces that I can "adjust" the wheel > slightly before I tighten the nut. I can't get it centered well > enough like this, though. So, what's the deal here? Is this "one > size fits all" concept just a bad idea? I'm thinking I should just > go buy a wheel with a 1/2" hole. Is that the way to go, or is there > some kind of special trick to this? Thanks. > > -Steve Trovato > strovato at optonline.net > _______________________________________________ > -- Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems (512) 797-7501 Voice 5026 FM 2001 Pat at HorneSystemsTx.com Lockhart, TX 78644-4443 www.hornesystemstx.com -- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT -- From gasket.works at gte.net Tue Jun 19 19:18:51 2007 From: gasket.works at gte.net (Gasket Works USA) Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 20:18:51 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] PV system/disconnect Message-ID: <29521518.3610141182302331774.JavaMail.root@vms172.mailsrvcs.net> In typical grid tie systems the inverters have the onboard circuitry to disconnect when utility power is down. In that if they sense that there is no 60 cycle frequency comming from the utility they send the PV output to ground. So, no power pushes into the utility lines. reverse this when input is sensed. This is an instantaneous deal. m >From: Bill Gilroy >Date: 2007/06/18 Mon PM 06:20:38 CDT >To: old dirtbeard >Cc: shop-talk at autox.team.net >Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] PV system >If you are sending power back onto the grid what happens with downed lines >and workmen? I know with generators you have to have a transfer switch so >you don't put power back on the grid. How is this handled or is it even an >issue? Just wondering. I don't think this would work in Seattle; to many >clouds and to many cedar trees right around my house. > >-g > > > >On 6/15/07, old dirtbeard wrote: >> >> >> Meter spinning backwards (it shows 99,546KW then, and was set at 100,00 KW >> upon installation, a spin down of almost .5mWh since it was installed on >> April 9th -- today it shows 99,445 over a half million watt hours of >> surplus). >> Edison did not change out our old analogue meter when the system >> was installed, and then realized that they could not read it, so we lost a >> month of measurement). >_______________________________________________ >gasket.works at gte.net > >Shop-talk mailing list > >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk M.N.Dunst Gasket Works USA, LLC gmt-8 Pacific time 626.358.1616 voice 626.628.3777 fax From cak at dimebank.com Tue Jun 19 20:30:09 2007 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 19:30:09 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Bench Grinder, new grinding wheel Message-ID: <200706200230.l5K2U9dv000396@moose.dimebank.com> Get the right size. Get a decent brand wheel, too ... not a generic from Sears. http://www.mmsonline.com/articles/120003.html From strovato at optonline.net Tue Jun 19 20:42:38 2007 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 22:42:38 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Bench Grinder, new grinding wheel In-Reply-To: <200706200230.l5K2U9dv000396@moose.dimebank.com> References: <200706200230.l5K2U9dv000396@moose.dimebank.com> Message-ID: <0JJW00694Y7KEB50@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> OK, OK. Scolding accepted. I will go get a respectable wheel for the grinder. It is a pretty cheap grinder and I'm sure the wheel that was on there was not exactly the Cadillac of grinding wheels. It worked well enough for general shop use for a good while. I figured I'd just pick up a wheel without having to do a whole lot of analysis. I guess I was wrong. Never underestimate the availability of crappy tools and parts, I guess. From dirtbeard at pacbell.net Sat Jun 23 08:57:13 2007 From: dirtbeard at pacbell.net (old dirtbeard) Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2007 07:57:13 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] OBD II code scanner Message-ID: <000701c7b5a6$c9217480$6600a8c0@XLH883> Hi guys, Today I need to buy an automotive OBD2 code scanner. It probably will only be used on newer (OBD2) GM cars. In looking at the range of hand held scanners offered, the prices run from $70 to $500+. Some of the more expensive have interesting comments like "will not accidentally deploy air bags" which makes me wonder about the cheaper ones. I like good tools and will pay as much as I need to, but I hate to buy something that I will never use. What features are most important? Do you have any experience with these scanners and let me know what you liked/disliked or if you wish you have bought something other than what you have? Thanks! best, doug '72 BSA B50SS '74 Triumph TR6 '01 Harley XLH883 '03 GMC Cargo Van From mark at sccaprepared.com Sat Jun 23 20:53:42 2007 From: mark at sccaprepared.com (Mark Andy) Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2007 22:53:42 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] OBD II code scanner In-Reply-To: <000701c7b5a6$c9217480$6600a8c0@XLH883> References: <000701c7b5a6$c9217480$6600a8c0@XLH883> Message-ID: Howdy, On Sat, 23 Jun 2007, old dirtbeard wrote: > Today I need to buy an automotive OBD2 code scanner. It probably will > only be used on newer (OBD2) GM cars. In looking at the range of hand > held scanners offered, the prices run from $70 to $500+. Some of the > more expensive have interesting comments like "will not accidentally > deploy air bags" which makes me wonder about the cheaper ones. > > I like good tools and will pay as much as I need to, but I hate to buy > something that I will never use. What features are most important? > > Do you have any experience with these scanners and let me know what you > liked/disliked or if you wish you have bought something other than what > you have? My only real experience is to actually try the thing on your car and see what it does before you buy it. I tried two HF units that looked really nice on paper, except for how they didn't work (like, at all) with either my two OBD II vehicles. It's not just limited to cheapies either... My buddy's fancy snap-on scanner wouldn't talk to our '93 BMW a few years back either. In contrast, the HPTuners software/hardware I've got for reprogramming my '99 z28 works like a champ on that vehicle. So... Try before you buy. After that, worry about if it'll work on future vehicles. Oh, and my other advice is that you want text descriptions of codes. Just the code, while it will eventually work, is annoying as heck. Mark From nases at verizon.net Sun Jun 24 05:27:03 2007 From: nases at verizon.net (Phil Nase) Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2007 07:27:03 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Garage paint/Clear over epoxy? Message-ID: <000601c7b652$9795f830$2f01a8c0@na.sjcount.com> I will paint the garage floor today. It's prepped and ready. I'm using a quikrete product. If I decide to use color flakes will they provide some non skid protection? I planned to use a non skid additive also. If I want more shine or protection can I use a clear finish over the epoxy and do I need a non skid additive in that also? The only clear I see from Quikrete is matte finish. Is the clear also an epoxy or some other type? Thanks. This has turned into a real project but I'm almost there. Phil Nase Quakertown, PA http://home.comcast.net/~philnasecpa From LSAPEX at aol.com Sun Jun 24 08:39:14 2007 From: LSAPEX at aol.com (LSAPEX at aol.com) Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2007 10:39:14 EDT Subject: [Shop-talk] Garage paint/Clear over epoxy? Message-ID: The more coats you have over the non skid, the less non skid it is. You could put the non skid in the final coat only, for max effect. If I want more shine or protection can I use a clear finish over the epoxy and do I need a non skid additive in that also? Les. Apexautoeng.com ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. From dmscheidt at gmail.com Sun Jun 24 18:13:24 2007 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2007 20:13:24 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] How likely am i to be able to pull electrical wire? In-Reply-To: <2400a5d40706241657sfa8ed97sf03ad031d7e179b2@mail.gmail.com> References: <2400a5d40706112128x5ef9bf88oa723efbb313d0eaf@mail.gmail.com> <14642.204.155.16.95.1181655455.squirrel@webmail.groupwbench.org> <2400a5d40706241657sfa8ed97sf03ad031d7e179b2@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <2400a5d40706241713y6869399qf20618e22ffe2542@mail.gmail.com> \ On 6/12/07, jamesf at groupwbench.org wrote: > > > I've got a piece of romex cable in a wall that's failed. (open hot.). > > It's about six or eight feet worth, in an exterior wall. It runs > > about six or eight feet from one duplex outlet to another, with one 90 > > degree corner It's conceivable that the wire does something nuts, like > > go up to the header and then across, I think it runs straight > > horizontally. How likely am I to be able to be able to pull a > > replacement, without performing surgery on the drywall? > > Pretty unlikely. I've had walls to the bare framing and it was all I could > do to get the cable through the 3 2x4s that usually make up a corner. You > will expend far less energy cutting out the drywall and replacing it. > > Besides, wire doesn't fail by itself, it'd help you sleep easier if you > figure out why it broke. Have you tested the wire itself, and not just the > outlet? Old outlets that use the spring-loaded wire holders instead of the > screws on the side lose their spring and the wires loosen up. If you're > lucky all it does is make the lights flicker. > In the end, I cut the wall up. I got lucky, though. The break in the wire was next to the box I started at. A mouse (I think, I'm not an expert at rodent skeletons) had chewen through the wire about three inches away from the outlet. I ended up cutting the wire off, installing another duplex outlet six inches below the existing one, and running a new piece of wire from the new box to the existing one. My question is, why didn't this trip the breaker? And why did it keep working for some period of time? (How long does it take for a rodent to become a skeleton inside a wall?) There was clear evidence of arcing -- the paper that wraps the bare ground wire was charred. I replaced the breaker, on principle, but it is a bit worrying. -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com From doug at dougbraun.com Sun Jun 24 19:24:47 2007 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2007 18:24:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] OBD II code scanner In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <492532.32036.qm@web603.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> > I tried two HF units that looked really nice on > paper, except for how they > didn't work (like, at all) with either my two OBD II > vehicles. My experience with a $39.95-on-sale HF unit was the same. It said there were no codes even if there were. Doug From doug at dougbraun.com Sun Jun 24 19:28:20 2007 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2007 18:28:20 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Garage paint/Clear over epoxy? In-Reply-To: <000601c7b652$9795f830$2f01a8c0@na.sjcount.com> Message-ID: <536034.64559.qm@web613.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I used color flakes, and they made the surface a bit rougher. With them, I have never had a problem with slipperiness, so I would suggest not bothering with the anti-skid additive. But you have to be careful and methodical sprinkling the flakes. Unlike paint, you cannot correct a goof by applying more. :-) Doug --- Phil Nase wrote: > I will paint the garage floor today. It's prepped > and ready. I'm using a > quikrete product. > > If I decide to use color flakes will they provide > some non skid protection? > I planned to use a non skid additive also. > > If I want more shine or protection can I use a clear > finish over the epoxy > and do I need a non skid additive in that also? The > only clear I see from > Quikrete is matte finish. Is the clear also an > epoxy or some other type? > > Thanks. This has turned into a real project but I'm > almost there. From clmautz at gmail.com Sun Jun 24 20:02:32 2007 From: clmautz at gmail.com (Chip Mautz) Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2007 22:02:32 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] OBD II code scanner In-Reply-To: <492532.32036.qm@web603.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <492532.32036.qm@web603.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <5f44dd4f0706241902q65f52d2ctde9a2d6c28228172@mail.gmail.com> I use my $60 OBDII scanner/erase tool I got from Autozone. Shop wanted $80 to read and clear an odbc code, credited toward whatever 'repair' I required. I bought the tool for $20 less and cleared the fault codes on my '99 BMW (gas cap, check engine light), so I could emission inspect the car. Worked like a champ. Used it on a '99 BMW 323 (mine), a '99 BMW 540i/6, a 2000 Honda Accord, and other OBDII cars. Works like a champ. Will clear codes, but won't fix problems - real problems come back. Goofy stuff like gas caps loose, etc., are cleared immediately. Oh, btw, I used it on the '99 BMW 323 that had dual front and dual side air bags, didn't set any of them off... Worth the money to me... Chip On 6/24/07, Doug Braun wrote: > > I tried two HF units that looked really nice on > > paper, except for how they > > didn't work (like, at all) with either my two OBD II > > vehicles. > > My experience with a $39.95-on-sale HF unit was the > same. > It said there were no codes even if there were. > > Doug > _______________________________________________ > clmautz at gmail.com > > Shop-talk mailing list > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk > -- "Perpetual optimism is a force multiplier."  Colin Powell From bugi1960 at gmail.com Sun Jun 24 20:15:04 2007 From: bugi1960 at gmail.com (Phil Nase) Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2007 22:15:04 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Garage paint/Clear over epoxy?/ Its always something In-Reply-To: <000601c7b652$9795f830$2f01a8c0@na.sjcount.com> References: <000601c7b652$9795f830$2f01a8c0@na.sjcount.com> Message-ID: <006601c7b6ce$a54e7890$2f01a8c0@na.sjcount.com> The floor is painted and it looks good, except. I needed more paint, the coverage wasn't nearly what it was supposed to be. Went back to Lowes and got more paint. Put it down and it's a different color. So I have two shades of blue floor. The paint dries way different than it goes on so I kept painting but now it's evident that they are different shades. What kind of satisfaction should I ask for at Lowes? I don't even know if I can second coat it now. The different color is about 2/5 s of the garage floor so its hard not to notice it. Phil Nase Quakertown, PA http://home.comcast.net/~philnasecpa From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 24 23:27:42 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2007 22:27:42 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Garage paint/Clear over epoxy?/ Its always something In-Reply-To: <006601c7b6ce$a54e7890$2f01a8c0@na.sjcount.com> Message-ID: <20070625052743.JDFH8388.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> > What kind of satisfaction should I ask for at Lowes? IMO, none. No paint maker guarantees that different batches will be identical in color. In fact, most of them recommend that you buy all the paint required and mix the cans together to ensure they are the same color. And coverage is always 'typical', not guaranteed. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 24 23:34:06 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2007 22:34:06 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] How likely am i to be able to pull electrical wire? In-Reply-To: <2400a5d40706241713y6869399qf20618e22ffe2542@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <20070625053406.SMQH26470.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> > My question is, why didn't this trip the breaker? And why did > it keep working for some period of time? (How long does it > take for a rodent to become a skeleton inside a wall?) There > was clear evidence of arcing -- the paper that wraps the bare > ground wire was charred. I replaced the breaker, on > principle, but it is a bit worrying. Just a WAG ... I'd say the "short" was through part of the mouse and high enough resistance that it never drew enough current to trip the breaker. Most likely the wire was not chewed through all the way, only partially, and it later broke from thermal flexing or whatever (same thing that makes old floors creak when no one is walking on them). Randall From carl.r.lindahl at gmail.com Mon Jun 25 06:54:37 2007 From: carl.r.lindahl at gmail.com (Carl Lindahl) Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2007 08:54:37 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] How likely am i to be able to pull electrical wire? In-Reply-To: <20070625053406.SMQH26470.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> References: <2400a5d40706241713y6869399qf20618e22ffe2542@mail.gmail.com> <20070625053406.SMQH26470.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: I would agree completely. The mouse or rat, or rodent could have been fairly well insulated until he chewed though both the hot and either ground covering or neutral that knawing the hot leg didn't do anything. Assuming the rodent was in the wall it was stuck against romex, a 2x4, fiberglass insulation (if present) and sheetrock, none of which are good conductors, some are even "fairly" good insulators." With the right conditions in the wall the rat could have easily chewed all the insulation off of the hot wire and without touching the ground or neutral, been fine from any electrical shock. As soon as the rodent crossed either the neutral or ground wire this is where you probably noticed the arcing and other fine events. As stated below his high resistance would only let a few amps flow through his body compaired to a dead short which would trip the breaker. I don't have any numbers, but assuming the rat could conduct even 10 to 20 amps, if the circuit was a 15 or 20 amp breaker, the rat "short" would not have tripped it because of the high resistance. A dead short would pull a much larger amount of current imeaditly and pull the breaker open. I have seen rodents before in outdoor disconnect meet their fait and no one knew the better because they can't trip the 15, 20, 30, 60 amp, etc breakers. Then you could always looks at the nice "electronicly adjustible" trip breakers that some 3 phase industrial sites use. You can move the trip around to suite your needs, all except for a dead short. Carl On 6/25/07, Randall wrote: > > My question is, why didn't this trip the breaker? And why did > > it keep working for some period of time? (How long does it > > take for a rodent to become a skeleton inside a wall?) There > > was clear evidence of arcing -- the paper that wraps the bare > > ground wire was charred. I replaced the breaker, on > > principle, but it is a bit worrying. > > Just a WAG ... I'd say the "short" was through part of the mouse and high > enough resistance that it never drew enough current to trip the breaker. > Most likely the wire was not chewed through all the way, only partially, and > it later broke from thermal flexing or whatever (same thing that makes old > floors creak when no one is walking on them). > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > carl.r.lindahl at gmail.com > > Shop-talk mailing list > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk From doug at dougbraun.com Mon Jun 25 09:18:48 2007 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2007 08:18:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Metal Shrinker? Message-ID: <767794.28042.qm@web610.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I need to do some metal shaping for my '31 Ford project (www.dougbraun.com), and I need to get a metal shrinker (the kind where you put the edge of the sheet metal between two jaws and pull a lever). I have seen them for sale from Eastwood and (naturally) for less money from HF and various Ebay people. Has anybody used any of these? Is there likely to be a quality difference between Eastwood's and HF's, or are they all made in China anyway? Anyone got a used one to sell? Thanks, Doug From stevie_g at swampfoxcustoms.com Mon Jun 25 17:39:11 2007 From: stevie_g at swampfoxcustoms.com (Stevie G) Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2007 19:39:11 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Metal Shrinker? In-Reply-To: <767794.28042.qm@web610.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001a01c7b782$0b53eef0$0201a8c0@matrix22> http://www.mittlerbros.com/ Buy American...or European. Avoid the Chinese stuff. The castings break. They look the same in the adds but in a side by side comparison, they are different. -----Original Message----- From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Doug Braun Sent: Monday, June 25, 2007 11:19 AM To: Shop-Talk List Subject: [Shop-talk] Metal Shrinker? I need to do some metal shaping for my '31 Ford project (www.dougbraun.com), and I need to get a metal shrinker (the kind where you put the edge of the sheet metal between two jaws and pull a lever). I have seen them for sale from Eastwood and (naturally) for less money from HF and various Ebay people. Has anybody used any of these? Is there likely to be a quality difference between Eastwood's and HF's, or are they all made in China anyway? Anyone got a used one to sell? Thanks, Doug From beels at technologist.com Mon Jun 25 10:34:09 2007 From: beels at technologist.com (Richard Beels) Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2007 12:34:09 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Garage paint/Clear over epoxy?/ Its always something In-Reply-To: <006601c7b6ce$a54e7890$2f01a8c0@na.sjcount.com> References: <000601c7b652$9795f830$2f01a8c0@na.sjcount.com> <006601c7b6ce$a54e7890$2f01a8c0@na.sjcount.com> Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.2.20070625123107.03e04110@technologist.com> You're most likely screwed, but goto Lowe's and complain. The droid at the store will most likely give you the 800 customer support # for the paint manuf. I used to live down your way (East Greenville) and when I painted my house, the Behr paint lifted off the Kilz primer. I went to Home Depot (Pottstown) and complained, the guy gave me Beh'r s800 # and Behr had me send receipts in for all the paint I had bought that was affected - both Behr and Kilz - and they sent me a check to cover that. Nothing for my time and aggravation but I did get a couple hundred for the paint. Hopefully, you can get at least the same out of Lowe's..... At 6/24/2007 at 22:15, Shakespearean monkeys danced on Phil Nase's keyboard and said: > The floor is painted and it looks good, except. I needed more paint, the >coverage wasn't nearly what it was supposed to be. > >Went back to Lowes and got more paint. Put it down and it's a different >color. So I have two shades of blue floor. The paint dries way different >than it goes on so I kept painting but now it's evident that they are >different shades. > >What kind of satisfaction should I ask for at Lowes? I don't even know if >I can second coat it now. The different color is about 2/5 s of the garage >floor so its hard not to notice it. Cheers! From mark at sccaprepared.com Wed Jun 27 15:23:11 2007 From: mark at sccaprepared.com (Mark Andy) Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2007 17:23:11 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Chevy P30 Chassis RV stuff? Message-ID: Howdy, More of a "Mobile Shop" I guess, but we're buying an '84 Class A on the Chevy P30 chassis. Anyone know good references for these things? Looking for a service manual for the chassis, mailing lists / web forums with lots of DIY folks, etc. There are some pictures of what we're getting here: http://www.maracing.com/MH/ Thanks! Mark From mbarre at juno.com Wed Jun 27 15:43:10 2007 From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt) Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2007 21:43:10 GMT Subject: [Shop-talk] Chevy P30 Chassis RV stuff? Message-ID: <20070627.144320.23752.51892@webmail30.lax.untd.com> When I had my truck camper, I really got some good use out of this: http://www.rv.net/forum/ That looks like a great deal you got. The family outgrew the slide-in. I liked it because I could still pull a trailer full of 4 wheelers or cycles or a boat if needed. I figured a fifth wheel or maybe a "Toy box" with a ramp would be next but the motor-home provides more room and still has towing capability. Enjoy the RV and keep us informed on your escapades! Matt -- Mark Andy wrote: Howdy, More of a "Mobile Shop" I guess, but we're buying an '84 Class A on the Chevy P30 chassis. Anyone know good references for these things? Looking for a service manual for the chassis, mailing lists / web forums with lots of DIY folks, etc. There are some pictures of what we're getting here: http://www.maracing.com/MH/ Thanks! Mark _______________________________________________ mbarre at juno.com Shop-talk mailing list http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk From schauss at worldnet.att.net Wed Jun 27 20:17:50 2007 From: schauss at worldnet.att.net (Peter Schauss) Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2007 22:17:50 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Converting a lamp from U.S. to European voltage Message-ID: <20070628021746.293C7187640@autox.team.net> We recently sent some furniture to my daughter who lives in Helsinki. I converted some floor and table lamps for her by removing the U.S. plug and replacing it with a pin style plug which matches the outlets in her apartment. I reasoned that since the amperage at 220 volts for a given size bulb is half of what it is at 110 volts there would be no reason to replace the cord, switch, or socket. Is this correct or should I have replaced any of the other components of the lamps? Thanks, Peter Schauss From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jun 27 22:23:34 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2007 21:23:34 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Converting a lamp from U.S. to European voltage In-Reply-To: <20070628021746.293C7187640@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <20070628042335.FVCE8388.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> > We recently sent some furniture to my daughter who lives in > Helsinki. I converted some floor and table lamps for her by > removing the U.S. plug and replacing it with a pin style plug > which matches the outlets in her apartment. I reasoned that > since the amperage at 220 volts for a given size bulb is half > of what it is at 110 volts there would be no reason to > replace the cord, switch, or socket. Is this correct or > should I have replaced any of the other components of the lamps? The current will be fine, but I have some doubts about doubling the voltage. Plus, if I remember right, their light bulbs don't use the same base as ours. Randall From wmc_st at xxiii.com Wed Jun 27 22:31:58 2007 From: wmc_st at xxiii.com (wmc_st at xxiii.com) Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2007 00:31:58 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Converting a lamp from U.S. to European voltage In-Reply-To: <20070628021746.293C7187640@autox.team.net> References: <20070628021746.293C7187640@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20070628002744.01dbf9c8@mailsvr.xxiii.com> At 10:17 PM 6/27/2007, Peter Schauss wrote: >We recently sent some furniture to my daughter who lives in >Helsinki. I converted some floor and table lamps for her by >removing the U.S. plug and replacing it with a pin style plug which >matches the outlets in her apartment. I reasoned that since the >amperage at 220 volts for a given size bulb is half of what it is at >110 volts there would be no reason to replace My understanding has been the current is more demanding of conductors, switches, etc than voltage. So doubling the voltage & halving the current should be ok. But you really need to go with code over there. Wouldn't wanna burn down the flat for one lamp, eh? But shipping furniture & lamps clear across the pond? Wouldn't it be easier to give her some funds and send her to the local Ikea or whatever? -WC From doug at dougbraun.com Thu Jun 28 04:44:44 2007 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2007 03:44:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Converting a lamp from U.S. to European voltage In-Reply-To: <20070628021746.293C7187640@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <20394.22296.qm@web604.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> In my experience, USA-spec electrical stuff like cords, plugs, switches, and lamp sockets are better-made and more durable than European stuff. The Europeans seem to have taken the attitude that since 220-volts means that things use less current, the wires can be thinner, and everything else can be lighter and more plasticky, too. Metal conduit or junction boxes are almost unheard of, for example. They also have a greater range in quality between well- and cheaply-made stuff than you usually see here (assuming you stay out of dollar stores). Doug --- Peter Schauss wrote: > We recently sent some furniture to my daughter who > lives in Helsinki. I > converted some floor and table lamps for her by > removing the U.S. plug and > replacing it with a pin style plug which matches the > outlets in her > apartment. I reasoned that since the amperage at > 220 volts for a given size > bulb is half of what it is at 110 volts there would > be no reason to replace > the cord, switch, or socket. Is this correct or > should I have replaced any > of the other components of the lamps? From doug at dougbraun.com Thu Jun 28 04:52:23 2007 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2007 03:52:23 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Converting a lamp from U.S. to European voltage In-Reply-To: <20070628042335.FVCE8388.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <632188.23114.qm@web612.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> > The current will be fine, but I have some doubts > about doubling the voltage. > Plus, if I remember right, their light bulbs don't > use the same base as > ours. The European light bulbs use the same socket as us, but they also have a bayonet style that is sometimes used. That just means that a shop has to carry more varieties of bulbs. Once when I was living in Greece I found an American light bulb in some of my stuff. As an experiment I tried putting it into a lamp to see what it would do with 2X the normal voltage. I expected that it would blow instantly. But it didn't- it was REALLY bright, much like those photoflood bulbs that studio photographers used to use. I turned it off after several seconds, so I have no idea how long it would have actually lasted. Doug > The current will be fine, but I have some doubts > about doubling the voltage. > Plus, if I remember right, their light bulbs don't > use the same base as > ours. From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Sat Jun 30 21:50:31 2007 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2007 22:50:31 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] abrasive blasting with a pressure washer Message-ID: Has anyone used one of these or something like it? http://www.tiny.cc/LXS9z We have metal steps at an apartment building that were replaced last fall, too late to paint. Now they need to be cleaned up and painted. Will this clean up the diamond plate and frame? While adding new tools is always good, is there any place on a car restoration this could be used. Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! See it moves! From doug at dougbraun.com Sat Jun 30 22:09:00 2007 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2007 21:09:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] abrasive blasting with a pressure washer In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <227216.42102.qm@web606.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> If it works it will be VERY messy, getting wet, dirty sand all over the place. (But then, regular sandblasting will get dry, dirty sand all over the place.) I have heard of people doing localized sandblasting of assembled cars, but this is risky because the sand will get EVERYWHERE. Doug --- Rich White wrote: > Has anyone used one of these or something like it? > > http://www.tiny.cc/LXS9z > We have metal steps at an apartment building that > were replaced last fall, too > late to paint. Now they need to be cleaned up and > painted. Will this clean > up the diamond plate and frame? While adding new > tools is always good, is > there any place on a car restoration this could be > used.