[Nobbc] TR4A is back in Calif.

[wendell bain]

Hi Gerry,

Thanks for filling in the blanks. Might be a defective gauge.
The TR engine should hold 70 psi @ 3000 rpm when warm. Truth is
it will fall off a little. The TR-4 range also has a voltage
stabilizer for the
dash board electric items and that might be the culprit for the varying
oil pressure readings.

As for the ignition issue, Moss Motors has the entire Ig. Switch
assembly with keys
for $25.95 + shipping and tax. Their part # 542-070. It sounds to me
like
whatever Steve installed is not something Standard-Triumph would
recognize.
I might be wrong but both of the TR-4's I owned had a simple twist
the key
to the right until it stops, twist a little further and the starter
motor would
activate then let it go back to the first stop. It would either start
or you would need
to crank some more.... And no I don't work for Moss Motors.

As for the top, some of the TR-4 range had a roadster top or a
convertible top.
The cars I owned had the roadster top. So I may be in ignorance of
how the
other one works. The roadster top is pretty straight forward but if
you wait until
it starts raining to put it up, you're going to get wet.

Hope this helps.

Wendell


On Oct 12, 2010, at 5:24 PM, G. Mugele wrote:

> Thanks for all the valuable feedback.   I'll be acquiring some Delo
> since that seems like an obvious choice for those also have some
> diesels in the fleet.
> I did some checking around today and I find that the parts stores in
> this area have a variety of alternatives (I mean Smothers and Santa
> Rosa Auto Parts, not Kragen, etc) but they charge dearly for it.
> While I would not like to scrimp where my new love's health and
> welfare are concerned, I think spending more than $10 per quarts seems
> excessive.
>
> Wendell,
> The missing piece of that sentence was that she seems to have low oil
> level after resting for more than a few minutes.    I must have been
> using a Lucas keyboard.
>
> I put the volt meter on her last night and there was no obvious drop
> in voltage by morning and I didn't see any puddle of electricks
> underneath her this morning either so I'm taking that as a good sign
> that she's not leaking electrics and that the smoke is still mostly in
> the wires.
>
> She probably won't make any Saturday rides for a while.... not until I
> get some of the issues taken care of....  Steve took off the crank
> driven fan and installed an electric.  It's not thermostatically
> controlled however and I find that I obsess about the temp gauge,
> especially in traffic.   I suspect that the radiator needs boiling
> out, at a minimum.  So that's the first order of business.  The
> throttle linkage is a bit mucked up.   Still have no wipers.  The
> clutch needs attention and I have to find the source of those bangs,
> groans, and creaks under acceleration.  Oil Pressure gauge is dead.
> And so on.   So she's on a very short leash until all that is sorted
> out to my comfort level.
>
> Now... does anyone know where to find a new or refurbished Union
> ignition locks.   This one is pretty used and loose.... it took me a
> while to learn the combination: push the key in, turn about 5 degrees
> clockwise, pull gently and slowly turn clockwise until starter
> engages.  None of the keys seem to work in the doors and the trunk
> locks or not at its option.
>
> No flag in the boot but there is a single black calif license plate.
> I'm hoping that Dee can find the other one.... or the original
> registration.   That will allow me to keep the proper plates.
>
> I'm also having a bit of hassle folding up the top.... there is no
> doubt that I'm doing it wrong but I can't tell how.   When the top is
> lowered into the bin behind the seats the two conical pins that mate
> with the ports on the windshield frame point straight up.   They are
> higher than the surrounding bodywork and so, when the tonneau is
> pulled taut, I risk punching holes in it.  I need lessons in top
> stowage.
>
>
> On Oct 12, 2010, at 10:34 AM, wendell bain wrote:
>
>> The TR engine should rev. to 6000 without problems with stock rods.
>> Beyond that you need Carillo or some other racing rods and unless
>> the engine has been really tweeked to make power above 6000 you
>> should be fine. Speaking of being fine, it seems we have an
>> incomplete
>> sentence (see red type below).
>
> G. Mugele
> mewgull at mugele.net
>
> *** I am certain there is too much certainty in the world.   --
> Michael Crichton
> _______________________________________________
> Nobbc at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/nobbc/
> wbain at sonic.net