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<font size=3>At 02:14 PM 10/16/2018, wbeech wrote:<br><br>
>OK, I’ll contribute to the list with my current challenge, a 1954
Plus Four. Re-<br>
>building a basket case without benefit of being the one that
disassembled it. Car <br>
>has no interior at all, making the seat bases is no problem but I am
trying to re-<br>
>construct the seat back, have been working on making a pattern via
the cut-n-fit-<br>
>n-cutsomemore method but not real sure just how the back rides on the
side sills <br>
>and sits against the chassis cross member for bracing.
Somewhere on the web, <br>
>not GoMog, I found a good tutorial with pictures of the way the back
board was <br>
>configured to accept the foam to give the proper contours, but now I
cannot find <br>
>it. .....<br><br>
Bill,<br><br>
While this probably isn't the item you were looking for, here is some
info I received<br>
some time back. I want to get it up on SOL's Morgan Web page, but
haven't had<br>
the chance.<br><br>
----------------------------<br><br>
From: "Jeff Webster" <carfindr@tiac.net><br>
To: <Morgans@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: RE: Roadster seat backrest (rebuild).<br>
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 1999 14:01:31 -0400<br><br>
Dear All,<br>
I thought I'd post this letter so it may end up in the archives. Here
is<br>
some valuable information regarding the bench seat back rest of an
early<br>
'high-cowl' roadster. This information may also be useful to those with
the<br>
low body style.<br>
I have had the opportunity to remove the leather coverings from my
roadster<br>
backrest as I had intended on replacing the wooden part as mine had
rotted<br>
(not to mention the leather). The idea was to have a new wood backrest
made<br>
and ready to go when I took it to the upholsterer.<br>
WELL, This was not to be. THE BACKREST IS A COMPLICATED AFFAIR.<br>
It is not something that can be made out of a sheet of half inch
plywood,<br>
and I'll tell you why.<br>
Firstly, the original is made up from four different shaped/sized pieces
of<br>
wood, it has 19 springs (9 large ones and 10 small) that are attached
in<br>
different areas of the back. Moreover some are bent in such a way to
give<br>
that great "old sofa" look to the backrest when it is in the
car.<br>
I would STRONGLY suggest that if your back rest is shot, you either
replace<br>
it with bucket seats or look for a good used back rest at a swap
meet.<br><br>
However, If you watch Norm Abrams regularly and you are either desperate
or<br>
brave enough to attempt to make a replica - here are the measurements
and<br>
materials you will need.<br>
Begin with a piece of quarter inch Luan board. It should measure
44'" Wide<br>
by 21 & 3/4" deep.<br>
Measuring from left to right, (along the long side) move the tape in 1
&<br>
1/2" from the left side and make a mark. Then, from that mark,
measure 41"<br>
(this accomodates the notch either side at the top of the back
rest, for<br>
the hood frame.) This notch extends down from the top, 4 & 1/4"
each side in<br>
a slight curve.<br>
The overall depth of the backrest is 21 & 3/4". Having marked
for the notch<br>
at the top, measure from the very top of the backrest down the right side
17<br>
&1/2" and make a mark. (You will now begin to mark the bottom
cut out, where<br>
it bridges the leaf springs and sits on the sills). Measure in 4",
down 1 &<br>
1/2", then in 3", and down 2" to the bottom of the
backrest. The total width<br>
of this notch should be 7 & 1/2". Now, measure in from the
right side edge<br>
(not from the notch) 19" and put a mark.<br>
Mirror the above measurements for the two notches on the left side of
the<br>
back.<br>
At the bottom, in the middle you should end up with two marks about
6"<br>
apart, this is where the cut out will be for the prop shaft tunnel.
It<br>
should be about 6 & 1/2" high, but it tapers. The best thing to
do is set<br>
your prop shaft tunnel on the back rest and use it as a template, you'll
get<br>
a much more accurate cut, but remember not to make it taller than
7".<br>
At this stage you should not have made any cuts - everything should just
be<br>
marked though on the Luan board.<br>
The next step is to take some 1/2" x 3" stock. (you could use
1/2" ply cut<br>
3" wide). You will need two pieces 38 1/2" long for the top
rail and the<br>
upper base rail, two pieces 22" long for the side rails, one piece
12" long<br>
for the center rail, one piece cut 7" wide x 38 & 1/2" long
for the lower<br>
base rail.<br>
Now, turn your Luan back rest over on the floor so that the markings
you<br>
made earlier are facing down. Next lay out your pre cut lengths of
1/2" ply<br>
as follows:<br>
First place your two side rails on the outside edges either side, then
place<br>
the 7" wide base rail horizontally between them at the very bottom,
directly<br>
above that place the upper base rail and then place the top rail at the
top<br>
edge. Finally figure and mark the center point of the top and upper
base<br>
rail out, mark it and place the 12" center rail vertically between
these two<br>
points. You now have your basic frame laid out. You need to attach
these<br>
frame pieces to the Luan. I would suggest (now you know how it should
look)<br>
removing them and re-laying them out on the floor in front of you,
then<br>
place the Luan board on top (with your markings facing up) and nail
through<br>
the Luan into the ply wood frame rails, a little glue wouldn't hurt.<br>
YOU ARE ALMOST FINISHED!<br>
Once the frame pieces have been nailed to the Luan and the glue has
dried,<br>
take a plane and knock a 45 degree bevel top frame rail, but not so
deep<br>
that you cut into the Luan. Then, with a jig saw, cut out areas we
marked<br>
earlier.<br>
Once again lay the back rest on the floor, frame side up, as we have
two<br>
more pieces of wood to add. These strengtheners are 23 & 1/2"
long, 1 & 1/2"<br>
wide by 1" deep. They run top to bottom, on their edge, at a slight
diagonal<br>
beginning, (measuring along the top of the backrest) 4" in
from the hood<br>
bow notch on either side - to just inside the notch we cut out for the
leaf<br>
spring shackle. You will see once you lay these on your backrest that
you<br>
will have to notch out these strengtheners so they attach to the Luan
in<br>
some places and frame in others. These pieces have a 45 degree bevel on
ALL<br>
FOUR long edges that will be inside the seat back. In addition the ends
are<br>
cut at 45 degrees so that they taper to create a wedge (2 - 2 1/2"
long)<br>
towards the top and bottom of the seat. These pieces are then attached
to<br>
the back rest with screws from behind.<br>
There are just two more things you have to do. In the square area of
Luan<br>
that you now see either side of the center rail, drill a 1" air hole
in the<br>
middle. Finally, sand all the outside edges so there is nothing that
will<br>
rip you new leather when it's applied.<br>
THAT'S IT!!!! You now have a Morgan back rest!<br><br>
You should be able to re-use the springs from your old back rest. As
I<br>
mentioned earlier, there are 19 ! The two side rails get three large
ones<br>
each as does the center rail, the top row of the larger ones are bent
down.<br>
The square Luan section on each side get five small springs each, in
a<br>
square shape with one in the middle. All protruding frame edges on
the<br>
inside of the seat are covered with horse hair. A good auto
upholsterer<br>
should be able to take it from here.<br><br>
Good luck!!<br><br>
Jeff Webster<br><br>
------------<br><br>
From: "Jeff Webster" <carfindr@tiac.net><br>
To: "John T. Blair" <jblair@exis.net> <br>
Subject: RE: Roadster seat backrest (rebuild).<br><br>
Jeff,<br><br>
If you don't mind, I'd like to put your article up on the
SOL's Morgan <br>
Web page. Also do you have any pictures or sketches to go with your
<br>
explaniation?<br><br>
----------------------------<br><br>
John<br><br>
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<br>
<div>John T. Blair WA4OHZ email:
jblair1948@cox.net</div>
<div>Va. Beach,
Va
Phone: (757) 495-8229</div>
<br>
<div> 48
TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4
Series V (B1106)</div>
<div> 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)
77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III</div>
<div>
65 Rambler Classic</div>
<br>
<div>Morgan:
<a href="http://www.team.net/morgan" EUDORA=AUTOURL>
www.team.net/morgan</a></div>
<div>Bricklin:
<a href="http://www.bricklin.org/" EUDORA=AUTOURL>www.bricklin.org</a>
</div>
<br>
<div>If you can read
this
- Thank a teacher!</div>
<div>If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!</div>
<br>
<div> From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:</div>
<div> e pluribus Unum, "from many,
one."</div>
<div> In God We Trust</div>
<div> Liberty - the power of
choosing, thinking, and acting for </div>
<div>
oneself; freedom from control or
restriction </div>
<br>
<br>
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