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<DIV><FONT size=2>The lower mounting point for the rebound strap on an MGB
(the car that was the subject of the original enquiry) is on the axle. So
when you fit lowering blocks the body becomes lower relative to the axle
and the rebound straps become slacker not more taut. The bump rubber
on the body is now also closer to the pedestal on the axle, so the damper
can't be 'compressed' any more than it was before. And with the same
straps the damper can't be extended any more than previously
either.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Incorrect springs that give a very raised ride height may well
cause the problem of picking up a rear tyre in a fast turn, but lowering blocks
will reduce or eliminate that.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV>----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
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<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT><FONT size=2></FONT><BR></DIV><FONT size=3>Lowering
blocks raise the rear axle in relation to the springs, but do not change the
spring height in relation to the body or chassis frame. You can correct
the ride height that way, but it will not correct the gross misalignment for
the rebound straps (which are attached to the lower spring mounting
plate).<BR><BR>If the rebould straps are close to taught when at rest, they
you will be royally screwed on handling when driving. It will pick a
rear tire completely off the ground in a fast turn, causing severe oversteer
(very dangerous condition). And if you install longer rebound straps,
you will get damage to the lever arm shocks from overtravel.<BR></FONT>
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