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<DIV><FONT size=2>It's different to the MGB clutch slave then. That has a
spring which pushes the piston out to take up play and push the release bearing
onto the clutch cover plate. The cylinder is backfilled with fluid
from the reservoir so you get the same travel as before.
You have to reduce the pedal throw to get less movement of the release
arm - BT, DT.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>For the other post one of the techniques in the MGB
world is<FONT size=2> to clamp the push-rod and hence piston fully into the
bore of the cylinder for bleeding, to push as much air and fluid out as you can
before starting. The piston doesn't retract at all on its own, the
above spring is trying to push the piston out.</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Easy to check, push on the release arm so the push-rod goes
into the cylinder, then let go. If it slowly comes back out again there is
a spring inside.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>PaulH,</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV><FONT
size=3><BR></FONT><FONT size=3>If the clutch is engaging/disengaging very near
top of pedal stroke, you can shorten the clutch master pushrod a bit to
provide some pre-travel for the pedal, which may be more for to your
preference.<BR></FONT>
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