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<DIV><FONT size=2>Yes it is a good value, but you need to measure the
voltage at the starter battery cable terminal and body as well.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>The starter is a bit chicken and egg. As less voltage
reaches the starter from, say, poor connections the battery voltage will go up
even though the cranking speed goes down, because the starter voltage has gone
down. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>If the circuit though the starter - which includes the
solenoid on a pre-engaged is poor then voltage at the battery and the starter
terminals will be good even though cranking speed is low.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>If there is excessive mechanical load on the starter causing
the slow cranking, then both battery and starter voltage will be lower even with
a good battery.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>And of course if the battery is weak then the voltage measured
right on the battery posts will be low.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Geared starters are very good seemingly achieving the
impossible of reducing battery drain whilst increasing cranking speeds and
making starter easier, but are expensive.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>A better bet is a modern non-geared starter which goes some
way to achieving the benefits of a geared at a lighter weight and about half the
price of an original. Moss Europe for example have the geared at £223, the
light-weight at £88, and the OE at £130 plus £15 returnable surcharge on a
rebuildable unit. The term 'hi-torque' can be confusing, some
suppliers apply that to the geared and some to the lightweight. The
difference between the two is that in the geared the solenoid with its
connections is in line with the output pinion and the motor is on the side,
instead of being the other way round. Also the solenoid and the motor are
very nearly the same sizes, again unlike the others. A drawback with
the geared, and maybe the light-weight, is that they don't have the rubber
bumper coil boost contact which aids starting. The geared may well not
need it, and it can be replicated with an additional relay, or more easily with
a split-charge relay with two output connections, or a diode if you know
what you are doing.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV>----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
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<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US" lang=EN-GB>I
measured the voltage on the posts while cranking = 10,5 volts. It is on a
digital meter, so I wonder if that’s a good value.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US" lang=EN-GB>The
same value is measured on the starter ingoing post.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US" lang=EN-GB>So no
tension loss on the electrical circuits.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
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