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<DIV><FONT size=2>Because the LEDs take so little current they need a dimmer
that inserts a higher resistance in the circuit to shunt enough voltage away
from the LEDs to dim them. They should dim, I have a couple of
incandescents still in circuit on both my cars and the LEDs dim to some extent,
but not as much as all incandescents.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Normally dimmers are just a series resistance, i.e. two wires,
and you connect it between the supply and the lamps i.e. in the same place the
factory dimmer is.</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV><FONT size=2>The factory dimmer should still turn the lights off altogether
(both mine do) , so an alternative is to connect a parallel resistance with the
lights to boost the current (1.5 amps is neither here nor there in the total
load on the alternator), so that the factory dimmer works. In theory -
based on the relative currents - a 15 ohm 10 watt resistor should boost the
load to that of the original four 2.2w bulbs. But as the
voltage/illumination characteristics are different as well there may still be a
difference.</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV><FONT size=2>PaulH.</FONT> </DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
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<DIV>Although the bulbs are advertised as “dim-able” in my experience they are
either on or off — full brightness or not visible. It could very well be that
a electronic dimmer is required, and they don't “dim” with the old-fashioned
rheostat.<BR>
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