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Rick, Yes, I wondered what he referred to when he said Clean, thought it might be the outward looks possibly not inside and operational. Good comments below.
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<div class="">paul</div>
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<div class="">On Apr 25, 2020, at 8:53 AM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs <<a href="mailto:mgs@autox.team.net" class="">mgs@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:</div>
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<div class="">Paul had some good suggestions and I agree. But Tom, I find myself pondering over your word 'clean'. Do you mean 'shine them up' or 'remove deposits from inside'? Carb cleaner is good for both jobs and let me add a word or two if cleaning inside
is the quest.</div>
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<div dir="auto" class="">I just cleaned the SUs on my TD and doing so made a world of difference. But first of all, someone here said, "Most carburetor problems are electrical." That's a funny turn of phrase but it's true. I tuned and tuned my TD's SUs before
putting the timing light on the TD and discovered that the timing was jumping around. New springs in the distributor's mechanical advance calmed the jitter making carburetor tuning a one time affair. But back to cleaning.</div>
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<div dir="auto" class="">I marked the covers for rotation position, removed the damper pistons, and removed the covers, setting them aside carefully, labeled 'F' and 'R'. I then lifted out the air pistons complete with needles, dumped out the oil, and set them
aside with their covers. </div>
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<div dir="auto" class="">Using fresh, clean, pipe cleaners wetted with carb cleaner, I carefully ran the pipe cleaners up and down the jets, switching to a new pipe cleaner as the previous one became discolored. I then wiped the chokes clean with a shop rag
and carb cleaner. That finished the carb bodies.</div>
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<div dir="auto" class="">I next cleaned the air pistons and needles with carb cleaner and shop rags paying particular care to protect the needles. I also sprayed carb cleaner into the damper bore, washing out any old oil. The insides of the covers were wiped
clean and the piston bores were flushed clean.</div>
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<div dir="auto" class="">I live in a very humid climate where rust flashes quickly. I don't know whether the air pistons and bores are stainless but I took no chances. I applied 3-in-1 oil to the air pistons and inserted them into the bores in the covers, coating
all with light oil.</div>
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<div dir="auto" class="">Back at the car I verified that the heights of the jets and were the same then switched on the fuel pump. Petrol came to the top of one jet but not to the other. I adjusted the float bowl valve until both levels were the same.</div>
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<div dir="auto" class="">Back in went the air pistons, the covers on and the screws tightened gradually checking for proper piston drop as they were snugged down. BTW, I use lockwashers on the carb bowl screws so they don't work loose but more importantly,
so they don't need to be over-tightened.</div>
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<div dir="auto" class="">The rest is tuning. Airflow was balanced and the mixture was reset.</div>
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<div dir="auto" class="">The part I left out was cleaning the needles but that's quite controversial so let's leave it at, "I cleaned the needles."</div>
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<div dir="auto" class="">And of course, this is just my story, not an authoritative treatise on SU maintenance. Maybe it helps someone.</div>
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<div dir="auto" class="">Rick<br class="">
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<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sat, Apr 25, 2020, 5:54 AM Thomas Gunderson via Mgs <<a href="mailto:mgs@autox.team.net" class="">mgs@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br class="">
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What is a good way to clean SU carbs without removing them?<br class="">
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Tom Gunderson<br class="">
1957 MGA 1500 rst<br class="">
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 12pt; font-size: 12pt;">Paul Osborne<br class="">
Department of Electrical and Computer Eng<br class="">
University of Rochester <br class="">
201 Hopeman Building RC<br class="">
Rochester NY 14627<br class="">
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<div class="" style="orphans: 2; widows: 2;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 16px;"> 585-275-5226</span><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;">
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