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You can get the old coolant out of the block by exchanging it for
water. A couple of fills and drains ought to do it. Or you can do
it by trickling water in at the top while letting it out at the
bottom, with the engine warmed up and running, until it runs out
clear at the bottom. Then shut it down, drain it as completely as
possible, button it up and refill it with the coolant of your choice<b>
after it cools down. </b>I used to flush out rusty coolant this
way when I was into flipping cars to raise hobby money. <br>
<br>
CR<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/9/2019 2:28 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs
wrote:<br>
</div>
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cite="mid:76E26ABAA5884D6C88DCC1E31767B7E9@paul">
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<div><font size="2">Even if you remove the radiator altogether the
block is still half full of old coolant, and removing the
water pump doesn't get much more out. Remember the original
poster was asking how to get the bad coolant out. </font><font
size="2">Having a drain point on the rad is convenient for a
simple drain and refill, but that's all.</font></div>
<div> </div>
<div><font size="2">You can drain a roadster cleanly without that
by shoving a piece of card under the hose and past the
cross-member over a bowl, slacken the hose clip and push it
right back, then push a blunt screwdriver up between hose and
rad port. It only trickles out, but I leave it to do that
while I get on with the next phase of the job.</font></div>
<div> <font size="2">PaulH.</font>
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<div style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </div>
<div> </div>
<div dir="ltr">On my '76B, with '77 engine, there is no drain
valve. You have to pull the lowest radiator hose off the water
pump to drain the coolant. It's a mess. Need a really wide pan
on the ground underneath, and even then it tends to run along
the front crossmember and steering rack and make a mess.</div>
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