<div dir="auto"><div>All probably true, certainly the thermostat. I wonder if opening the block drain while flushing would help clear debris? The maximum safe cooling needed during a flush, with a running engine, would be the head. </div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">My interest in this topic, beyond the academic value, is that I am about to start a '75 Triumph TR6 that certainly has rust scale in the block (and head). The radiator has been reverse flushed and flows cleanly in both directions. I don't want to plug it up so I will do 'something'. Hummm...</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">Rick<br><br><div class="gmail_quote" dir="auto"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Thu, May 9, 2019, 10:52 AM PaulHunt73 <<a href="mailto:paulhunt73@virginmedia.com">paulhunt73@virginmedia.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><u></u>
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<div><font size="2">Thermostat probably closed so that would need to be
removed. Even then would the water take the shortest
route? I.e. running the engine more effective?</font></div>
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<div dir="auto">I've often wrestled with this. I usually flush debris out by
running the engine and flowing water through. However, any system that flushes
tends to put the output debris in the radiator! How about disconnecting the
TOP hose, feeding fresh water into the radiator, and ducting the output from
the waterpump into a bucket? Anyone tried this?</div>
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