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<DIV><FONT size=2>Longest run to shortest is correct, with the handbrake
released to minimise the cavity in the wheel cylinders. I've always used
an EeziBled - at no more than 15psi - to initially fill and bleed both clutch
and brake systems, but that has always left the brake pedal long and soft.
It pumps up with a couple of quick strokes, then after a couple of seconds goes
long and soft again - i.e. still some air in. The second step is for
someone to press down very hard on the pedal, then I rapidly open and
close a caliper nipple, first one side then the other. That always
blasts more air out and after that it is fine. The front of the car needs
to be slightly higher than the rear.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>But if just replacing fluid on an otherwise working system
then an EeziBleed and opening each nipple in turn until the fluid runs clear
should be all that is needed.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV>I am new to MGs but not British cars. I have read posts that seem to
indicate that bleeding the brakes on my 67B is not as straight forwatd as say
my big Healey. So could someone provide directions of the proceedure? I would
start with cyl farthest away and work my way to the front.</DIV>
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