<div dir="auto">Shims of different thicknesses have been used to adjust pushrod depth and length.<div dir="auto"><br><br><div data-smartmail="gmail_signature" dir="auto">Ira Erbs<br>Portland, OR<br>typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone</div></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr">On Mon, Nov 19, 2018, 11:40 AM Hans Duinhoven via Mgs <<a href="mailto:mgs@autox.team.net">mgs@autox.team.net</a> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div bgcolor="white" lang="NL" link="blue" vlink="purple"><div class="m_4705006631985592988WordSection1"><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d">Just a thought about the shim:<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d">It might be for preventing “rusting solid tight”. <u></u><u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d">Brake fluid can cause serious scalding, i.o.w. it might cause serious corrosion.<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d">Having a “shim” might prevent this.<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d"><u></u> <u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d">For Paul:<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d">The single cylinder brake mc I think is easier to swap w/o removing the pedal box, than the US spec tandem cylinder, which is longer.<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d"><u></u> <u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d">Cheers<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d">Hans<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d"><u></u> <u></u></span></p><div><div style="border:none;border-top:solid #b5c4df 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm"><p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"">Van:</span></b><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif""> Mgs [mailto:<a href="mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">mgs-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] <b>Namens </b>PaulHunt73 via Mgs<br><b>Verzonden:</b> zondag 18 november 2018 10:22<br><b>CC:</b> <a href="mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Mgs@autox.team.net</a><br><b>Onderwerp:</b> Re: [Mgs] 1973 mgb master cylinder<u></u><u></u></span></p></div></div><p class="MsoNormal"><u></u> <u></u></p><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt">To be fair, and having done it both ways with both masters at various times and for a repaint, it's MUCH easier to get at the banjo bolts through the large plug in the firewall than it is to remove and refit those two bolts which are higher up behind the dash.</span><u></u><u></u></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"> <u></u><u></u></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt">As said getting the lower nuts on the master cylinder is a fiddle, but again nowhere near as bad as those two bolts. I wedged the nuts into an open-ended spanner and stuck the washer to them with grease.</span><u></u><u></u></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"> <u></u><u></u></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt">And on the subject, anyone know the purpose of the thin shim between the single-circuit (not dual?) brake master and the pedal box? It surely can't be to do with alignment.</span><u></u><u></u></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"> <u></u><u></u></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt">PaulH.</span><u></u><u></u></p></div><blockquote style="border:none;border-left:solid black 1.5pt;padding:0cm 0cm 0cm 4.0pt;margin-left:3.75pt;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-right:0cm;margin-bottom:5.0pt"><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"">----- Original Message ----- <u></u><u></u></span></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal">.... To get to the lower attachment bolt, you have to go through a hole in the firewall, right behind the master cylinders. It is covered with a rubber "plug", and is not easy to get to...<u></u><u></u></p></div></blockquote></div><div id="m_4705006631985592988DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2">
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