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<div data-externalstyle="false" dir="ltr" style="font-family: 'Calibri', 'Segoe UI', 'Meiryo', 'Microsoft YaHei UI', 'Microsoft JhengHei UI', 'Malgun Gothic', 'sans-serif';font-size:12pt;"><div>Thanks for the help on my dash lights. </div><div><br></div><div>Once I bypassed the rheostat, the gages shine brightly; although, none of the gages work. </div><div><br></div><div>I have power to the voltage stabilizer, so suspect the fuel gage sending unit is defective. I have one to replace it.</div><div><br></div><div>Not sure about the temperature gage, but do see where the wire attaches to the motor.</div><div><br></div><div>The tach won’t register more than 3k RPM, regardless of the speed or engine revs. </div><div><br></div><div>I replaced the speedo cable and the needle jumped around until it finally stopped.</div><div><br></div><div>I have a 1968 GT that I intend to test switches and gages and intermingle with the 1972 MG.</div><div><br></div><div>I have to replace the fan switch in the 1972. It appears that crushing is the best method for removal.</div><div><br></div><div>The primary problem with the 1972 is performance. I think it’s the HIF carbs, not getting air or a jet/float clogged/stuck. On the highway, getting to a constant speed, the car runs strong. Once cruising, say at 60-65 MPH, the car will miss. All I have to do is press the pedal and it clears up and is strong. It just does it in 4th gear.</div><div><br></div><div>In the meantime, I got my TR6 out and am trying to figure out the dimmer/turn signal switch. Retirement is great with always lots to do.</div><div><br></div><div>Thanks again for the dash light help.</div><div><br></div><div>Steve Hughes</div><div>Gainesville, FL<br></div><div data-signatureblock="true"><div><br></div><div><br></div></div></div>
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