<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto">The new turn signal switch from Moss was packaged with a handy color conversion chart to help get the wires hooked up correctly. I suppose the issue is that it was used in Spridgets as well, although I thought BMC used standardized wiring codes in that period. <div><br></div><div>Anyway, now that I can compare a known good unit, it is obvious what the problem was. The spring under the outer contact had come loose, and was lodged behind it sideways. So it provided a certain amount of support at one end, but no spring pressure at all. To fix this would probably require complete disassembly of the switch component, which as I noted is pretty brittle.</div><div><br></div><div>A new solid state SU pump solved the fuel issue, as well.</div><div><br></div><div>I am about to try to start it up. I was charging the battery while having a bit of lunch. Wish me luck.<br><br><div id="AppleMailSignature">Sent from my iPad</div><div><br>On Aug 2, 2018, at 12:35 AM, PaulHunt73 <<a href="mailto:paulhunt73@virginmedia.com">paulhunt73@virginmedia.com</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div>
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<div><font size="2">Doh indeed! Presumably the light-green/brown and
light-green/purple wires are connected together at the flasher
unit.</font></div>
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<div><font size="2">Incidentally, this is a good indication (pun not intended) of
the safety hazard (another pun not intended) with these flasher unit - they
don't warn you of bulb failure like the originals do.</font></div>
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<div><font size="2">Paul.</font></div>
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<div>Oh, and I figured out the reason why the flasher continues to click. Doh!
I have an electronic flasher because I have LED front and rear lamps
installed. Forgot about that. It will click
regardless.</div></blockquote>
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