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<DIV><FONT size=2>For 30 years with one car and 24 with another, and a
combined 160k miles in my ownership, I've never done anything other than
pull the choke, switch on, and start up. This includes after several days
or even a month between runs, where the pressure takes longer to rise compared
to overnight. Oil pressures haven't changed during my ownership, and when
I checked the shells on one of the cars after about 80k in my ownership, with an
unknown number of miles before that,</FONT><FONT size=2> they were still at
or just inside the tolerance for new bearings, with no signs of wear in the
white metal. That had been switched off after getting fully up to
temperature, then left for a few days, and when I took the caps off the bearings
and journals were smothered in oil, and it was dripping on me.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>It just isn't a problem. These cars are just not that
delicate, they are basically tractor and lorry engines. I suspect it's
battery vendors that tell you to crank until you get oil pressure
:o)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Having said that oil filters definitely DO vary - hugely, and
the MANN 916/1 is my preferred filter, despite having a four-letter name.
Maybe you should have added "Beginning with 'F'" :o)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
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<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB" lang=EN-GB>First you
crank the engine with the starter motor, then you wait until you get some oil
pressure indication, and only then you pull out the choke lever to enable the
engine to start.</SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB" lang=EN-GB>That way,
you prevent unnecessary stress on the bearings etc., caused by the engine
running with unsufficient lubrication.</SPAN></P></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>