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Do you suppose the "shiny" air cleaners could be blocking those
ports?<br>
<br>
CR<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/27/2017 2:50 AM, PaulHunt73 via
Mgs wrote:<br>
</div>
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<div><font size="2">Opinions below.</font></div>
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<div style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </div>
<div> </div>
<div style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri', 'Segoe UI', 'Meiryo',
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<div>I plan to replace the weber (45DCOE) with HS4s on my 1968
GT. The needles are bent and a float is missing. Is it
reasonable to expect success by replacing these parts (and
maybe jets and float valves), after a good cleaning? What
needles and jets?</div>
<div> </div>
<div><strong><font face="Arial" size="2">Yes. But if the
pistons, covers and dampers have beome mismatched you
can still get problems. Always 0.090" jets on
4-cylinder MGBs from the factory. Needles on North
American Mk2 18GF engines with AUD265 carbs were FX, and
in 1969 on the 18GH engine AUD326 carbs used AAE. 18GK
engines in 1971 used AUD465 carbs with AAL needles.</font></strong></div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I have shiny carb air cleaners to use on my 1972 Roadster
with HIFs, but when I replace the stock air cleaners, the
car bogs and won’t accept the throttle. Should I change
jets? What jets?</div>
<div> </div>
<div><strong><font face="Arial" size="2">The throughput at
idle is so small no air-cleaner should be having any
effect at all. Part of the HS and HIF systems involves
two small ports either side and above the main orifice.
These ventilate the underside of the piston and allow it
to rise when the throttle is opened, and must have a
clear passage through any gaskets and filter base-plate
into the clean side of the air filter, see here <a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/sut.htm#3">http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/sut.htm#3</a>
Still 0.090" jets on HIF carbs.</font></strong></div>
<strong></strong></div>
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<div style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri', 'Segoe UI', 'Meiryo',
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<div>Should a car start without choking? Is that a indication
of a rich mixture if it does? I have a car with HS6s that
fouls the plugs when I start it and move it in and out of
the garage, but don’t drive it. The car needs choked to
start but once started the choke can be relieved
immediately. Do I have a mixture issue? Do I need a meter?</div>
<div> </div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2"><strong>Unless the ambient
temperature is high I would say that all SU-equipped
MGBs should need some choke to start. How much, and for
how long, varies from car to car and has to be learned.
For example my roadster HS choke can be pushed back
half-way immediately it starts, even in cold weather or
it floods, whereas the V8 HIFs need full choke for a few
seconds after starting and only gradually eased back
from there, even in summer. The plugs are the best
indication of rich mixture, but no choke, or some to
start then pushed all the way back straight away and it
will pull away, does indicate rich mixture to me.</strong></font></div>
<div><br>
<font face="Arial" size="2">PaulH.</font></div>
</div>
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