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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body bgcolor=white lang=NL link=blue vlink=purple><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-US style='color:#1F497D'>Bent needles may indicate damaged jets.</span><span lang=EN-US><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Needle type is dependent of air filter type a.o.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Look for cross reference tables for best needle type to choose.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Also the HS4 carbs were produced with various changes over the years.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Hopefully your carbs still bear sub model indicators attached to the float chambers, so you can dig deeper into the best combination tables.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>An example like this in on my 1971 BGT, which is equipped with the latest variant of the HS4 carb.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>This carb is equipped with the “swing needle”, which were common on the HIF4 carbs. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>HS6 carbs were not the standard carb for the MGB (too big).<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Stock air filters are carrying paper filters, which should be exchanged every 8000 miles or so.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Pancake shaped airfilters like the K&N make maybe equipped with metal filters, which can be washed clean.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>These filters have less air restriction, so a different needle should be chosen to give a proper mixture and engine operation.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Hope this helps a bit.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Good 2018!<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Cheers,<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Hans<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-US style='color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-US>See below:<br>On 12/26/2017 5:45 AM, daybell7--- via Mgs wrote:<br><br><o:p></o:p></span></p><div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-US style='font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>I plan to replace the weber (45DCOE) with HS</span><span style='font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>4s on my 1968 GT. The needles are bent and a float is missing. Is it reasonable to expect success by replacing these parts (and maybe jets and float valves), after a good cleaning? What needles and jets?<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div></div><p class=MsoNormal> It would be a good idea to send the carbs off to a rebuilder. They would know what's needed.<br><br><o:p></o:p></p><div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>I have shiny carb air cleaners to use on my 1972 Roadster with HIFs, but when I replace the stock air cleaners, the car bogs and won’t accept the throttle. Should I change jets? What jets?<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p class=MsoNormal> Sounds like the filters are clogged. Clean or replace the filter elements and try again.<br><br><o:p></o:p></p><div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>Should a car start without choking? Is that a indication of a rich mixture if it does? I have a car with HS6s that fouls the plugs when I start it and move it in and out of the garage, but don’t drive it. The car needs choked to start but once started the choke can be relieved immediately. Do I have a mixture issue? Do I need a meter?<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p class=MsoNormal> Are the jets free to move up & down? Sounds like they are but don't move far enough up when the choke is pushed in. <br> Could be a matter of jet adjustment. If it's fouling the plugs with dry black residue it's running rich. If the residue on the plugs is wet & oily the rings are leaking. <br><br><o:p></o:p></p><div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>The weber runs rich and, I suppose, can be corrected changing jets. Can anyone point me in the right direction in all this? Maybe a supplier that has explanations?<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p class=MsoNormal> You seem to have a fixation on the jets. The Weber running rich could be a matter of the float height or a leaking float.<br> Is there a MG club in you area? You need a knowledgeable person to look at all of your carbs.<br><br><o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>CR<o:p></o:p></span></p><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div></div></div><div id="DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br /> <table style="border-top: 1px solid #D3D4DE;">
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