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<DIV><FONT size=2>Opinions below.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
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<DIV>I plan to replace the weber (45DCOE) with HS4s on my 1968 GT.
The needles are bent and a float is missing. Is it reasonable to expect
success by replacing these parts (and maybe jets and float valves), after a
good cleaning? What needles and jets?</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Yes. But if the pistons, covers and
dampers have beome mismatched you can still get problems. Always 0.090"
jets on 4-cylinder MGBs from the factory. Needles on North American Mk2
18GF engines with AUD265 carbs were FX, and in 1969 on the 18GH engine AUD326
carbs used AAE. 18GK engines in 1971 used AUD465 carbs with AAL
needles.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT><FONT
size=2 face=Arial></FONT><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT><FONT size=2
face=Arial></FONT><BR></DIV>
<DIV>I have shiny carb air cleaners to use on my 1972 Roadster with HIFs, but
when I replace the stock air cleaners, the car bogs and won’t accept the
throttle. Should I change jets? What jets?</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT size=2 face=Arial>The throughput at idle is so small no
air-cleaner should be having any effect at all. Part of the HS and HIF
systems involves two small ports either side and above the main orifice.
These ventilate the underside of the piston and allow it to rise when the
throttle is opened, and must have a clear passage through any gaskets and
filter base-plate into the clean side of the air filter, see here <A
href="http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/sut.htm#3">http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/sut.htm#3</A>
Still 0.090" jets on HIF carbs.</FONT></STRONG></DIV><STRONG><FONT size=2
face=Arial></FONT></STRONG></DIV>
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<DIV>Should a car start without choking? Is that a indication of a rich
mixture if it does? I have a car with HS6s that fouls the plugs when
I start it and move it in and out of the garage, but don’t drive
it. The car needs choked to start but once started the choke can be
relieved immediately. Do I have a mixture issue? Do I need a
meter?</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial><STRONG>Unless the ambient temperature is high I
would say that all SU-equipped MGBs should need some choke to start. How
much, and for how long, varies from car to car and has to be learned.
For example my roadster HS choke can be pushed back half-way immediately it
starts, even in cold weather or it floods, whereas the V8 HIFs need full choke
for a few seconds after starting and only gradually eased back from there,
even in summer. The plugs are the best indication of rich mixture, but
no choke, or some to start then pushed all the way back straight away and it
will pull away, does indicate rich mixture to me.</STRONG></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT><BR><FONT
size=2 face=Arial>PaulH.</FONT></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>