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<DIV><FONT size=2>"</FONT><FONT size=3>pedal goes almost to the floor with no
resistance but enough to still work"</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Expand? If the biting point is very low when this
happens, then either the pressure seal is not sealing when it should be, or
there is air in the system. If the biting point remains 'normal' then it's
a purely mechanical issue, possibly pivots binding with heat
expansion.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>If the banjo union at the master is wet then that does imply a
leak, which may or may not let in air, and further tightening may not seal
it. Also if it's wet it implies fluid loss, which should eventually become
visible from the level in the master. But that may take some time,
and it will be affected by fluid expansion and contraction with heat/cool
cycles.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>If there is air getting in, then I can see that this becomes
apparent on flooring the pedal, which will tend to push the air down while
compressing it. But it will float to the top of the pipe while the pedal
is down, then when the pedal is released it will be flushed out of the system
into the reservoir. That is one of the many techniques that may be needed
to get full travel of the clutch slave after working on the
hydraulics. The effects of incomplete bleeding i.e. air
remaining in the system would normally be apparent on every pedal
operation.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>However that begs the question of how the air is getting in in
the first place. The fluid is either under no pressure at all (pedal
released), or under pressure (anywhere beyond where the master piston seal
closes off the bypass hole to the reservoir). If air was getting with the
pedal released then it would be apparent on the first operation no matter what
the temperature was, and more than once on each drive. And the pressure
while the pedal was anywhere in its disengagement portion should stop air
getting in, even on the upwards stroke, as it is the cover plate that is pushing
back on the slave piston and hence the fluid, which is the main factor in
returning the master piston and hence the pedal.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>The other possibility is that something is causing the slave
piston to be pushed back into the cylinder while you are driving, pushing fluid
that should normally be in the system back into the reservoir, and creating
lost-motion at the release arm. This has to be taken up before you can
start to disengage the clutch, so reducing pedal back-pressure and lowering the
biting point.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>But I can't really see how that could suddenly start happening
with the new master, so the new master (subject to getting a proper seal on the
banjo) has to be the prime suspect.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
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<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV>----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: black">... Now
I have a new problem – pedal motion is perfect until the car warms up and then
most of the pedal resistance is lost briefly...</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>