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This may come out as a bit of a mess but I copied it off an Aston Martin
Feltham Club newsletter and I have been told it works like a charm.
However, the 30 year old crud may not be charmanle :-).<br>
Ignore the bits other than the "USEFUL TIP".<br><br>
<br><br>
<br>
<b>OUR MEMBERS TAKE ON MANUFACTURING<br>
</b>
<img src="cid:7.1.0.9.0.20160403104421.046b9dc0@look.ca.0" width=131 height=108 alt="[]">
</b>Recently there has been some interesting activity on the
parts-for-Feltham-cars front. David Walmsley can make the gasket
between the heater vent and bonnet. I can attest to these closed
cell items as I have one. Ivo Noteboom has done an
extraordinary job in having the bell crank lever, 56250, made. I
had mine mislaid and have searched for years without success so naturally
I got one.. Ivo had six made so cost was pretty high but now
has only two left. Russ Taft has developed the exact
reproduction of the turn signal knob. Keith Williams is perfecting
the interior light lenses. But my whirring over-lubricated
and worn gears, which slip occasionally, makes it impossible to remember
others I know there are others out there and it would
be brilliant if they would step into the light. Other members
could be very grateful for their efforts. There is a web site
that caters for those artisans who cannot economically justify
advertising – just go to
<a href="http://www.britcot.com. /" eudora="autourl">
www.britcot.com. </a> <br>
<br>
<b>USEFUL TIP<br>
</b>
<img src="cid:7.1.0.9.0.20160403104421.046b9dc0@look.ca.1" width=311 height=209 alt="[]">
</b>Sometimes one finds oneself in awe at the skill of mechanic masters.
A while back there was this tiny chrome headed screw that would not budge
from a chrome plated window frame. Drilling would be impossible and
it resisted copious applications of “rust freeing” penetrate oils.
The whole assembly was placed in front of the maestro at my favourite
“Brit” car shop. With a tiny metal collar ring, an
oxyacetylene flame, and a dash of cold water, the application of a screw
driver took it out with ease. No damage to the screw so it could be
reused and no discolouration on the window frame. So when this tip
was received it was thought that maybe it should be spread. <br>
<br>
You don’t need a special tool to remove a ball-joint stud. Loosen
the castellated nut several turns. Two equally weighted
ball-peen hammers are required. Place one on one side of the
stud and bash it on the side opposite with the second hammer.
Several hard blows should loosen the ball-joint<br>
<br>
<b>FROM A DOWN-UNDER BLOKE<br>
ENGINE TALK</b> by Peter Henson<br>
<img src="cid:7.1.0.9.0.20160403104421.046b9dc0@look.ca.2" width=255 height=192 alt="[]">
Since no other techo has offered to step up to rabbit on about engines,
I’ll continue with a bit more on the LB 2.6. (Keith Dixon has contributed
erudite discussion – Editor) I’m about to become even more familiar
with this engine. No person contacted me to answer the question
regarding the LB prefix to the 2.6 engine numbers. The answer is on page
460 of Arnold Davey’s book. The last Newsletter also left a
question regarding the rear crankshaft seal for these engines. I’ve given
you my home spun mod to help control the oil and I left you to wonder
what I would do to enhance this procedure. The answer however is that I
would attempt to find a modified crankshaft that has a seal journal
instead of a screw thread. Apparently they exist but cost a bomb. If
anyone is tempted to do the modification I wrote about, talk to me prior
to commencing the job. I may have made it sound a fairly simple
procedure; it is in fact far from it. My next challenge was to
bring the engine temperature under control. I know that if you live South
of about Coffs Harbour, the engine rarely warms up. So I did the
utmost to bring the cooling system to modern standards. Checked for
scale. Renewed hoses Re-sealed the filler cap. Went
through the water pump, carefully. Read Tocock and Bastow again,
then fitted a restrictor in the bypass hose. Next I fitted a degree
plate to the front of the engine and notched the front pulley. Then
I reset the ignition timing with a strobe light and blocked off the
vacuum advance. I was getting cooler all the time but not satisfied
so I fitted a fan shroud, then I threw the original thermostat away and
put in an early opening thermostat after drilling a bleed hole in
it. I also checked the fuel mixture and fuel supply. Now
things were coming under control. I had previously carried out a
compression test and a combustion gas leakage test prior to commencing
all of the above, as well as a chemical clean out of the cooling system.
I also checked the water temperature gauge for function. Don’t
trust dash gauges, ever! Finally I fitted a 4lb pressure cap, first
closing off the old pressure valve fitted to the radiator overflow tube.
You might wonder why. Well water pumps can leak inwards at the seal under
suction, true! I had to modify the original radiator filler cap to do
this. Next I blocked the air flow past the sides of the radiator to
encourage all the air from the grill to pass through the radiator. I used
low-density foam. I still couldn’t understand why the engine pumped
out a litre of water on a long run so I fitted a recovery type cap and a
on 40-degree days with 95C+ temps, I finally fitted a Davies Craig
electric water pump and an electric fan. These come in on demand through
a thermostatic switch and also maintain circulation after the engine is
switched off to prevent hot spots forming and boiling occurring in the
rear of the cylinder head. I’m finally satisfied that the engine
temperature is controlled within limits at all times. Now for the
oil leaks.recovery reservoir. Now the top tank stays full and recovers
the coolant as it cools. Not satisfied.<br>
<br>
<b>NEW CINTURATO TYRES<br>
</b>Dougal Cawley of Longstone Tyres reports that there is a new batch of
a Pirelli Cinturato tyre that is a radial alternative that suits our
Feltham cars in terms of looks as well as performance. A new batch
of these 185VR16CA67 tyres has just been manufactured. The photo
shows how well it fits the wheel arch.<br>
<br><br>
<br><br>
<br><br>
<br><br>
<br><br>
<br><br>
<br><br>
<br><br>
<br><br>
At 10:28 AM 4/2/2016 -0500, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">Content-Type:
multipart/alternative;<br>
<x-tab> </x-tab>
boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0040_01D18CCA.5C0244B0"<br>
Content-Language: en-us<br><br>
Get a ball joint tool (looks sort of like a gear puller with fixed
arms, many auto parts stores will loan one to you). Use it
to put pressure on the joint. If that does not suffice, hit the
control arm with a hammer while the tool is in place.<br>
<br>
Maynard<br>
<br>
<b>From:</b> Mgs
[<a href="mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net" eudora="autourl">
mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Dan DiBiase
via Mgs<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, April 02, 2016 5:51 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> Richard Lindsay; mgs@autox.team.net List<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Mgs] Pesky ball joints<br>
<br>
Sounds like one of those deals where perseverance, patience and
penetrating oil/heat are needed.... Took 30 years for them to get that
way, it might take a few weeks<br>
to get them unstuck.... ;-)<br>
<br>
Dan D<br>
'76B, '65B<br>
Central NJ SA<br>
<br>
<div align="center"><br>
</div>
<b>From:</b> Richard Lindsay via Mgs
<<a href="mailto:mgs@autox.team.net">mgs@autox.team.net</a>><br>
<b>To:</b>
"<a href="mailto:mgs@autox.team.net%20List">mgs@autox.team.net
List</a>"
<<a href="mailto:mgs@autox.team.net">mgs@autox.team.net</a>> <br>
<b>Sent:</b> Friday, April 1, 2016 7:28 PM<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Mgs] Pesky ball joints<br>
<br>
Hey friends, I need help please. The ball joints on my Triumph GT6
project are severly stuck. They've been rusted in place for over 30 years
- perhaps 40+ years! And I have tried a 'pickle fork', pounding,
penetrating oil, and the torch...all to no avail.<br>
Please tell me your ideas. My '72's suspension is ready to reassemble,
except for the ball joints. Ideas? Tricks? Experiences? Magic?<br>
Thank you. All advice is appreciated.<br>
-rick<br><br>
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Regards<br>
<font face="Rage Italic" size=7>Barrie<br>
</font>Barrie Robinson<br>
Aston Martin Feltham Club<br>
barrie@look.ca<br>
<a href="http://www.amfclub.com/" eudora="autourl">www.AMFClub.com</a>
<br>
Go with the flow - but paddle hard </body>
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