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<font size="+1"><font face="Calibri">Rick,<br>
<br>
<font size="+1">Let's start with the penetrating oil, though I
don't think it's going to help much here. The tapered area may
come out clean as a whistle. Instead of buying off the s<font
size="+1">helf, mix 50/50 ATF and acetone. I<font size="+1">t
actually works. It's THE best penetrating oil I've ever
used. Th<font size="+1">en there's the <font size="+1">separating</font>
tool<font size="+1">. The only thing I've found a pickle
fork to be really useful for is removing ice from your
wheel wells without damaging the undercoating. Buy a
decent ball joint separating tool. It's two pieces of
steel with two screws in them. It's essentially a
Jorgenson clamp that pushes the threaded end of the
ball joint into the eye. You can exert an amazing
amount of pressure and bust the thing open<font
size="+1"> without even damaging the boot. <font
size="+1">Leave the nut on<font size="+1">. The
first time you use it it you wil<font size="+1">l
naturally be conservative with tightening it.
Don't be.<font size="+1"> There's only so far
it can go if you leave the nut on<font
size="+1">. T<font size="+1">ighten it
until you think the tool will break and
then give it a few more turns. </font>
It will go off like a small caliber
pistol. <font size="+1">Le<font size="+1">ave
it on for a day if you need to. <font
size="+1">H<font size="+1">it the
thread with the torch. <font
size="+1">The trick with two
sledges on either side of the
eye might help<font size="+1">,
too. I've had <font size="+1">that
work by itse<font size="+1">lf. </font></font></font></font>
It WILL pop. <br>
<br>
<font size="+1">Glenn</font><br>
<br>
</font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font>On
4/3/2016 1:00 PM, <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:mgs-request@autox.team.net">mgs-request@autox.team.net</a> wrote:<br>
<blockquote cite="mid:mailman.1.1459706402.27290.mgs@autox.team.net"
type="cite">
<pre wrap="">From: Richard Lindsay via Mgs <a moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:mgs@autox.team.net"><mgs@autox.team.net></a>
<span class="moz-txt-citetags">> </span>To: <a moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:mgs@autox.team.netList">"mgs@autox.team.net List"</a> <a moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:mgs@autox.team.net"><mgs@autox.team.net></a>
<span class="moz-txt-citetags">> </span>Sent: Friday, April 1, 2016 7:28 PM
<span class="moz-txt-citetags">> </span>Subject: [Mgs] Pesky ball joints
<span class="moz-txt-citetags">> </span>
<span class="moz-txt-citetags">> </span>Hey friends, I need help please. The ball joints on my Triumph GT6 project are severly stuck. They've been rusted in place for over 30 years - perhaps 40+ years! And I have tried a 'pickle fork', pounding, penetrating oil, and the torch...all to no avail.
<span class="moz-txt-citetags">> </span>Please tell me your ideas. My '72's suspension is ready to reassemble, except for the ball joints. Ideas? Tricks? Experiences? Magic?
<span class="moz-txt-citetags">> </span>Thank you. All advice is appreciated.
<span class="moz-txt-citetags">> </span>-rick</pre>
</blockquote>
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