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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body bgcolor=white lang=EN-US link="#0563C1" vlink="#954F72"><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal><span style='color:#1F497D'>See below…<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=MsoNormal><b>From:</b> PaulHunt73 [mailto:paulhunt73@virginmedia.com] <br><b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, May 19, 2015 2:38 AM<br><b>To:</b> crk@godblessthe.us; mgs@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Mgs] question about steering rebuild<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'>What do you mean by shimmying? If you mean the steering wheel wobbles that is usually caused by wheel imbalance. If you find it fades in and out on the straight, but fades quicker on a left curve and slower than on a right curve, both wheels are out. That can wear any of the steering and front suspension components.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='color:#1F497D'>No, not so much the steering wheel, but I can feel the movement through the steering wheel: it kind of stutters, kind of like something has a gap or some rubber has broken down and allows some looseness.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'> <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'>You need to examine and test by levering and waggling all the components and replace those worn, unless you are going for a wholesale replacement and rebuild.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='color:#1F497D'>Since it’s been an unknown but long time since I know the suspension and steering bits and pieces have been R&Red. The car says it’s gone 80 thousand miles, presumably accurate and only on the first 100000 miles, so I don’t think it unreasonable to replace rubbers and possible cap pieces as well as the Tie Rods.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'> <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'>MGB front swivel axles are shimmed under the upper trunnion, as are wheel bearings, and the rack damper. Incidentally I'm not aware of the MGB rack damper being rubber, it is steel on the ones I have dug into.</span><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'><o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'> <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'>Dampers only need replacing if they are leaking - that is if there is any oil left in them. Top them up first and see what happens. Again MGB dampers can be revalved to stiffen the suspension, if that's what you want, or you can put a different grade of hydraulic fluid (not oil) in them, but the Workshop Manual recommends not going above SAE20, and that only in warm climates. By 'modern' do you mean damping on modern cars? Or on after-market dampers on these classic cars? In both cases they tend to be harder anyway, some of the offerings for the MGB ridiculously so.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='color:#1F497D'>These are on an MGA, and I presume a decent hydraulic fluid is adequate? Yes modern is referring to modern cars and their suspension, particularly the shocks. I know they have different characteristics. On a modern car you jump on and off a corner of the car and you get about 1.5 cycles. On my MGA, I do that, and it dampens after maybe three cycles. I don’t know if that is to be expected on a 60’s English car, that’s all.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='color:#1F497D'>Clayton<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'> <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'>PaulH.</span><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'><o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'> <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><blockquote style='border:none;border-left:solid black 1.5pt;padding:0in 0in 0in 4.0pt;margin-left:3.75pt;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>----- Original Message ----- <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'>When I hit the road in my 62 II deluxe, especially on bumpy roads, I get a lot of rumbling , clunking and shaking. She goes down the highway smoothly; no veering and only above 70 do I start to get some shimmying.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></blockquote></div></body></html>