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<DIV><FONT size=2>What do you mean by shimmying? If you mean the steering
wheel wobbles that is usually caused by wheel imbalance. If you find it
fades in and out on the straight, but fades quicker on a left curve and slower
than on a right curve, both wheels are out. That can wear any of the
steering and front suspension components.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>You need to examine and test by levering and waggling all the
components and replace those worn, unless you are going for a wholesale
replacement and rebuild.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>MGB front swivel axles are shimmed under the upper trunnion,
as are wheel bearings, and the rack damper. Incidentally I'm not aware of
the MGB rack damper being rubber, it is steel on the ones I have dug
into.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Dampers only need replacing if they are leaking - that is if
there is any oil left in them. Top them up first and see what
happens. Again MGB dampers can be revalved to stiffen the suspension, if
that's what you want, or you can put a different grade of hydraulic fluid (not
oil) in them, but the Workshop Manual recommends not going above SAE20, and that
only in warm climates. By 'modern' do you mean damping on modern
cars? Or on after-market dampers on these classic cars? In both
cases they tend to be harder anyway, some of the offerings for the MGB
ridiculously so.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV>When I hit the road in my 62 II deluxe, especially on bumpy roads, I get
a lot of rumbling , clunking and shaking. She goes down the highway smoothly;
no veering and only above 70 do I start to get some
shimmying.</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>