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<DIV><FONT size=2>Springs - re-arching may not be enough. The free curve
is only one aspect, the temper or resilience in pounds per inch is the
other and probably more important. If they have lost their temper they
will sag again quickly. I take it you are in the USA, people have been
complaining for years there that new springs are so over-arched or too stiff
that even a fully-equipped car the rear is jacked up so high they couldn't get
the rebound straps fitted without significant extra weight at the rear.
The springs on a fully fitted-out car should be almost flat, with the rear
shackles angled backwards as they point downwards.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>People seem to recommend Peter Caldwell for damper
rebuilds.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Rebound straps - there have been problems with these,
replacements not having the cord reinforcing of the originals and being little
better than elastic bands, or simply snapping as soon as they are asked to take
the weight of the axle. I did hear Moss were obtaining reinforced ones and
had a test rig to check them. Alternatively Strapping Lad does them in
webbing.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>One source of rebuilt rear axles in the UK quotes £430/$660 so
your $550 would seem good value.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Handbrake cables are different lengths for stud and
centre-lock axles, but sometimes the labelling has got mixed up.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV class=WordSection1>
<P class=MsoNormal>Started back on the restoration (mostly) of my ’71 MGB, and
am working my way from back to front.<o:p></o:p></P>
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