From paulbhunt73 at gmail.com Wed Nov 1 02:28:25 2023 From: paulbhunt73 at gmail.com (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2023 08:28:25 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] 58 mga In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Did you read Barney's page?? If not the relevant section says: "One of the key features here is that the light spring inside the slave cylinder will keep the train of working parts in intimate contact. There will be no clearance or backlash between the seal cup, piston, pushrod, release arm, release bearing, and the input thrust plate on the clutch cover. This mechanism is therefore self-adjusting to compensate for clutch wear and gradual change of position of the operating parts, The graphite faced release bearing will run with gentle intimate contact with the release thrust plate. Graphite against a smooth steel surface is self-lubricating, so it will last a long time before it wears out (perhaps 80,000 miles or more)." It's not physically possible for the hydraulic system to take up play in part of that train without taking up play in all of it. You can test this for yourself by using the release arm to push the push-rod all the way into the cylinder, then release it.? It should slowly move back, while it is moving there is free play in the linkage, when it stops there should be none.? If yours doesn't do that then the slave piston is sticking or the spring is missing or broken.? Make sure you have enough space in the master reservoir before doing that to prevent an overflow, but with a combined reservoir that is less likely to happen than with the small clutch-only reservoir on the MGB. PaulH. On 31/10/2023 18:33, Eric Russell wrote: > > Yes, the hydraulic clutch will compensate for wear in the *clutch* > components. But wear in the operating parts (like the slave's > pushrod/clevis) results in lost motion - the first bit of movement of > the slave cylinder will only take up the slack and not actually move > the clutch fork. > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dcouncill at karamursel.org Tue Nov 7 14:57:11 2023 From: dcouncill at karamursel.org (David Councill) Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2023 13:57:11 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] windshield seal installation Message-ID: <4ee19514-c308-48a8-a710-3b73d8fba3aa@karamursel.org> Has anyone installed the windshield frame to body seal (AHH7136 or Moss 282-410) recently? I ordered the seal 1-2 years ago from Moss, and it is a URO product. Many attempts later, I have only managed to get the initial three inches to stay in the rails, the rest popping out after several inches more of seal in place. I have seen youtube videos as well as other Internet materials. Some say start in the? middle, some say start at the end, some says push/pull the seal through after removing a side pillar (which I haven't tried yet). I have tried soap as well as wd-40 as a lubricant. So now I am wondering if it is the seal itself due to the hardness of the rubber - which is true. I have to press fairly hard to get the initial one side of the "T" in the slot before I press in the opposing side. Does anyone know about issues with the URO seal such that I should purchase a different seal from McGregors or elsewhere? Or is it still in the technique? David Councill 72 B From lrc at red4est.com Tue Nov 7 15:42:03 2023 From: lrc at red4est.com (Larry Colen) Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2023 14:42:03 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] windshield seal installation In-Reply-To: <4ee19514-c308-48a8-a710-3b73d8fba3aa@karamursel.org> References: <4ee19514-c308-48a8-a710-3b73d8fba3aa@karamursel.org> Message-ID: <476D18DA-D61A-4DD4-99EA-CC0CB9C89497@red4est.com> I don't know if this works on MGBs, I only did it on my cortina, when I had my MGB windshield replaced, insurance covered the installation, but... Do you know "the rope trick"? Where you put the seal on the window, put a rope on the other side of the seal, put the window in place, and by pulling the rope through the window it pulls the seal into place. I'm sure there are now better descriptions online. It may also help to use some sort of lube on the rubber and windshield frame. > On Nov 7, 2023, at 1:57 PM, David Councill wrote: > > Has anyone installed the windshield frame to body seal (AHH7136 or Moss 282-410) recently? I ordered the seal 1-2 years ago from Moss, and it is a URO product. Many attempts later, I have only managed to get the initial three inches to stay in the rails, the rest popping out after several inches more of seal in place. I have seen youtube videos as well as other Internet materials. Some say start in the middle, some say start at the end, some says push/pull the seal through after removing a side pillar (which I haven't tried yet). I have tried soap as well as wd-40 as a lubricant. > > So now I am wondering if it is the seal itself due to the hardness of the rubber - which is true. I have to press fairly hard to get the initial one side of the "T" in the slot before I press in the opposing side. Does anyone know about issues with the URO seal such that I should purchase a different seal from McGregors or elsewhere? Or is it still in the technique? > > David Councill > > 72 B > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lrc at red4est.com > -- Larry Colen lrc at red4est.com sent from ret13est From dave at ranteer.com Tue Nov 7 16:33:24 2023 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup) Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2023 23:33:24 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] parts for sale Message-ID: <3bcd2a16a5304014b93fd20891039762@ranteer.com> See craigslist link here. This is my posting https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/pts/d/richardson-mgb-body-parts/7685246985.html -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulbhunt73 at gmail.com Wed Nov 8 01:20:38 2023 From: paulbhunt73 at gmail.com (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2023 08:20:38 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] windshield seal installation In-Reply-To: <4ee19514-c308-48a8-a710-3b73d8fba3aa@karamursel.org> References: <4ee19514-c308-48a8-a710-3b73d8fba3aa@karamursel.org> Message-ID: Unless it's actually damaged it's one of those things that is best left alone and not touched for cosmetic reasons. It will be mostly down to the rubber, after that technique.? Two of the latter I'm aware of - push-pull and the one John Twist shows where it is levered in with a hooked tool bit by bit https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TTJ-A_-n0_o? Both need lubrication, and patience. Compare the width of the crossbar on the 'T' with the width of the slot.? If the rubber is wider then it's likely to be bowed instead of lying flat and pop out that way.? If it's narrower then it'll pop out anyway. PaulH On 07/11/2023 21:57, David Councill wrote: > Has anyone installed the windshield frame to body seal (AHH7136 or > Moss 282-410) recently? I ordered the seal 1-2 years ago from Moss, > and it is a URO product. Many attempts later, I have only managed to > get the initial three inches to stay in the rails, the rest popping > out after several inches more of seal in place. I have seen youtube > videos as well as other Internet materials. Some say start in the? > middle, some say start at the end, some says push/pull the seal > through after removing a side pillar (which I haven't tried yet). I > have tried soap as well as wd-40 as a lubricant. > > So now I am wondering if it is the seal itself due to the hardness of > the rubber - which is true. I have to press fairly hard to get the > initial one side of the "T" in the slot before I press in the opposing > side. Does anyone know about issues with the URO seal such that I > should purchase a different seal from McGregors or elsewhere? Or is it > still in the technique? > > David Councill > > 72 B > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paulbhunt73 at gmail.com From ptroot at gmail.com Sat Nov 11 09:24:07 2023 From: ptroot at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2023 10:24:07 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Hard top Message-ID: We came across a hard top that was advertised as a Jenson Healey. It turns out it is not for a JH. My brother thinks it may be MG. It is a DynaPlastics and has port holes on the sides. The mount points for the latches look too close to the outside but I'm not at home to measure. It looks to be 8 or 9 inches. Is there anyway to tell what it is. I took a few pictures. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frank.r.edwards51 at gmail.com Thu Nov 16 18:05:51 2023 From: frank.r.edwards51 at gmail.com (Frank Edwards) Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2023 20:05:51 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Miata transmission in an MGB Message-ID: Hello, I am restoring a 1975 MGB. I would like to put a Miata transmission in this car. I know Moss makes a kit but it is way too expensive. I am not adverse to fabrication, machine work etc. What I'd like to know for sure is that it can be done? Thoughts, info and so forth greatly appreciated Thanks much, Frank -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Mon Nov 20 09:41:58 2023 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup) Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2023 16:41:58 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] does anyone recognize these parts? Message-ID: I've had several MGs, of various types, but I don't know which car these came from. Anyone recognize them? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Part.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 527418 bytes Desc: Part.jpg URL: From dave at ranteer.com Sat Nov 25 10:02:50 2023 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup) Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2023 17:02:50 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] clutch woes Message-ID: <35580d3fac32436abb49b71cd18c964b@ranteer.com> Really having trouble getting my clutch to work and stay working. several times I've gotten it to work, only to find in a few days that it no longer works. as a result I have never actually driven the car (it came in kit form). I've replaced the master, slave, and hose, all from Scarborough Faire this time. Thinking I need to maybe replace the metal tubing as well. which brings me to my question. As opposed to the brake connection, the slave has a banjo fitting, etc., which seems almost Rube Goldberg. Is there any reason when I have the new tubing made not to just skip all that and do it like the brake side? Being correct is not a factor; having it work is! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From barneymg at mgaguru.com Sat Nov 25 17:57:08 2023 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2023 19:57:08 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] clutch woes In-Reply-To: <35580d3fac32436abb49b71cd18c964b@ranteer.com> References: <35580d3fac32436abb49b71cd18c964b@ranteer.com> Message-ID: Very early MGA had a clutch slave cylinder with two side ports and a banjo fitting for the hose connetion. The bleeder fitting has to go in the top port, hose connection to the bottom port. Later MGA had a clutch slave cylinder with one side poet (high) for the bleeder and one end port (lower) for the hose (same hose), and no banjo fitting parts. If you're not a concours show enthusiast, then I suggest all early MGA should be changed to the later style slave cylinder (first time it needs to be changed), and abandon the banjo fitting parts. The MG clutch is notoriously difficult to bleed the first time, but once it is working it should stay working. If it loses fluid, you need to fix the leak point. If it does not lose fluid, but stops working anyway, that would be rather wierd. At 12:02 PM 11/25/2023, dave northrup wrote: >.... >Really having trouble getting my clutch to work and stay >working. several times I've gotten it to work, only to find in a >few days that it no longer works. > >as a result I have never actually driven the car (it came in kit form). > >I've replaced the master, slave, and hose, all from Scarborough >Faire this time. Thinking I need to maybe replace the metal tubing >as well. which brings me to my question. As opposed to the brake >connection, the slave has a banjo fitting, etc., which seems almost >Rube Goldberg. Is there any reason when I have the new tubing made >not to just skip all that and do it like the brake side? Being >correct is not a factor; having it work is! >.... -- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulbhunt73 at gmail.com Sun Nov 26 02:50:08 2023 From: paulbhunt73 at gmail.com (Paul Hunt) Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2023 09:50:08 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] clutch woes In-Reply-To: <35580d3fac32436abb49b71cd18c964b@ranteer.com> References: <35580d3fac32436abb49b71cd18c964b@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <9f3eb204-1f86-4534-b72d-d7e48c421628@gmail.com> Car model not given, but other than MGBs not having banjos at the slave much the same as Barney.? The MGB is also difficult to bleed, many techniques have been found to work from car to car, one of the simplest being to wedge the pedal fully down overnight then let it up slowly next morning.? That should give air bubbles time to gather near the top of the metal pipe, which are flushed back into the reservoir as the pedal is released.? You don't say whether fluid is being lost or not, or whether the loss of clutch action is gradual i.e. as indicated by the biting point getting lower and lower (test it daily at least), or is sudden.? Gradual loss when the car is being used can be from air being drawn past seals, or from leaks, which in the MGB can run down the pedal and be lost in the carpet as well as be external.? Any fluid in the dust cover? PaulH On 25/11/2023 17:02, dave northrup wrote: > > Really having trouble getting my clutch to work and stay working.? > several times I?ve gotten it to work, only to find in a few days that > it no longer works. > > as a result I have never actually driven the car (it came in kit form). > > I?ve replaced the master, slave, and hose, all from Scarborough Faire > this time.? Thinking I need to maybe replace the metal tubing as > well.? which brings me to my question.? As opposed to the brake > connection, the slave has a banjo fitting, etc., which seems almost > Rube Goldberg.? Is there any reason when I have the new tubing made > not to just skip all that and do it like the brake side?? Being > correct is not a factor; having it work is! > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rolindsay at yahoo.com Sun Nov 26 06:46:16 2023 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2023 07:46:16 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] clutch woes In-Reply-To: <20231126011337.3995BA04CE@autox.team.net> References: <8ad421d1-cae9-4de5-9ca9-03dbcad152ec.ref@email.android.com> Message-ID: <8ad421d1-cae9-4de5-9ca9-03dbcad152ec@email.android.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Sun Nov 26 18:45:56 2023 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup) Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2023 01:45:56 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] MGA Clutch line Message-ID: <625733dc0c5047e9bae879e6807fcb6d@ranteer.com> I think that the metal clutch line from the master down to the joint where the hose connects is leaking at the flare opposite the hose so I'm going to have it redone. My question is this: this group of parts that goes between the master and the metal line itself - is it really necessary??? The brake line goes directly into the master; is there any good reason why the clutch goes through all these parts? (this is from the Scarborough Faire catalog) [cid:image001.jpg at 01DA20A1.2A858D70] I'm thinking it makes sense to just bypass it and have them make a line that follows the correct path going directly into the master bypassing all that. Yes I know it will be longer and have some additional undulations. I just don't see a good engineering reason to have the banjo bolt there when the tubing could just plug directly into the master like for the brake line. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 7953 bytes Desc: image001.jpg URL: From barneymg at mgaguru.com Mon Nov 27 00:19:33 2023 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2023 02:19:33 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGA Clutch line In-Reply-To: <625733dc0c5047e9bae879e6807fcb6d@ranteer.com> References: <625733dc0c5047e9bae879e6807fcb6d@ranteer.com> Message-ID: the cluch pipe is one size larger than the brake pipe. the clutch pipe willnot screw directly into the master cylinder without some adapter fitting. The banjo fitting provides the larger port fot e3hthe clutch pipe. 08:45 PM 11/26/2023, dave northrup wrote: >I think that the metal clutch line from the >master down to the joint where the hose connects >is leaking at the flare opposite the hose so I?m going to have it redone. > >My question is this: this group of parts that >goes between the master and the metal line >itself ? is it really necessary??? The brake >line goes directly into the master; is there any >good reason why the clutch goes through all >these parts? (this is from the Scarborough Faire catalog) > >[] > > > > >I?m thinking it makes sense to just bypass it >and have them make a line that follows the >correct path going directly into the master >bypassing all that. Yes I know it will be >longer and have some additional undulations. > >I just don?t see a good engineering reason to >have the banjo bolt there when the tubing could >just plug directly into the master like for the brake line. >.... -- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: c6c1ca4.jpg Type: application/octet-stream Size: 7953 bytes Desc: not available URL: From barneymg at mgaguru.com Mon Nov 27 06:56:48 2023 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2023 08:56:48 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Fwd: Re: MGA Clutch line Message-ID: There is also the idea that it is nearly impossible to reach behind the master cylinder for wrenching on direct fit flatre nuts. The banjo fitting makes wrench access much easier. Some people prefer to also install banjo fittings on both brake ande clutch lines to make life easier. Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attiotude http://MGAguru.com >.... >Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2023 02:19:33 -0500 >To: dave northrup , >From: Barney Gaylord > >the cluch pipe is one size larger than the brake >pipe. the clutch pipe willnot screw directly >into the master cylinder without some adapter >fitting. The banjo fitting provides the larger port fot e3hthe clutch pipe. >At 08:45 PM 11/26/2023, dave northrup wrote: > >>I think that the metal clutch line from the >>master down to the joint where the hose >>connects is leaking at the flare opposite the >>hose so I?m going to have it redone. >> >>My question is this: this group of parts that >>goes between the master and the metal line >>itself ? is it really necessary??? The brake >>line goes directly into the master; is there >>any good reason why the clutch goes through all >>these parts? (this is from the Scarborough Faire catalog) >> >>[] >> >> >> >> >>I?m thinking it makes sense to just bypass it >>and have them make a line that follows the >>correct path going directly into the master >>bypassing all that. Yes I know it will be >>longer and have some additional undulations. >> >>I just don?t see a good engineering reason to >>have the banjo bolt there when the tubing could >>just plug directly into the master like for the brake line. >>.... -- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: dd7cc47.jpg Type: application/octet-stream Size: 15496 bytes Desc: not available URL: From david_breneman at yahoo.com Thu Nov 30 11:29:09 2023 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2023 18:29:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Mgs] Connecting Battery Charger to MGA References: <250981750.10240664.1701368949637.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <250981750.10240664.1701368949637@mail.yahoo.com> Need a sanity check here.? Is there any problem with connecting a trickle/conditioning charger directly to the starter switch input lug, to avoid putting the top up, etc, if connect it directly to the battery?? I have a single modern 12V battery. David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ejrussell61 at gmail.com Thu Nov 30 12:53:57 2023 From: ejrussell61 at gmail.com (Eric Russell) Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2023 14:53:57 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 198, Issue 9 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > Is there any problem with connecting a trickle/conditioning charger directly to the starter switch input lug, No problem. That is what I do. EjR On Thu, Nov 30, 2023 at 2:15?PM wrote: > Send Mgs mailing list submissions to > mgs at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > mgs-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > mgs-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Mgs digest..." > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Connecting Battery Charger to MGA (David Breneman) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2023 18:29:09 +0000 (UTC) > From: David Breneman > To: Mglist > Subject: [Mgs] Connecting Battery Charger to MGA > Message-ID: <250981750.10240664.1701368949637 at mail.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Need a sanity check here.? Is there any problem with connecting a > trickle/conditioning charger directly to the starter switch input lug, to > avoid putting the top up, etc, if connect it directly to the battery?? I > have a single modern 12V battery. > > David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/mgs/attachments/20231130/3a99d8b0/attachment-0001.htm > > > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > Mgs mailing list > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Mgs Digest, Vol 198, Issue 9 > *********************************** > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: