From paulbhunt73 at gmail.com Tue Aug 1 01:13:10 2023 From: paulbhunt73 at gmail.com (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2023 08:13:10 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 194, Issue 12 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6c64e1d7-8d4b-bc1b-1ace-c98016e66b29@gmail.com> Did any MGAs leave the factory with a tach?? Early MGBs had a rev counter before they got the tach. On 31/07/2023 21:21, Eric Russell wrote: > My guess is an MGA tach face (Jaeger) or perhaps MGA tach face & case > was used with a different tach's internals. MGB tachs were 'Smiths'. > > MGB tach for MGA is described here: > http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et202c.htm > > EjR > > On Mon, Jul 31, 2023 at 2:08?PM wrote: > > Send Mgs mailing list submissions to > mgs at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > mgs-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > mgs-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Mgs digest..." > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Today's Topics: > > ? ?1. mga 1500 with early 5 main mgb engine (dave northrup) > ? ?2. Re: mga 1500 with early 5 main mgb engine (Max Heim) > ? ?3. Re: mga 1500 with early 5 main mgb engine (Paul Hunt) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2023 00:22:55 +0000 > From: dave northrup > To: "mgs at autox.team.net" > Subject: [Mgs] mga 1500 with early 5 main mgb engine > Message-ID: <8ba46f6ebee14b168b5e753f84b72499 at ranteer.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Negative ground, car runs smoothly, need to install the electric > tach which supposedly was previously installed in this car and > working. > > On the back view, what hooks up where?? I am pretty sure the tab, > and the screw, are ground. > > The other two - one needs to go to power and the other to the > coil.? I think one is a female bullet connector; the other is > male.? Which goes to power and which to the coil? > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: tach front view.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 827772 bytes > Desc: tach front view.jpg > URL: > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: tach rear view.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 826250 bytes > Desc: tach rear view.jpg > URL: > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2023 17:52:40 -0700 > From: Max Heim > To: "mgs at autox.team.net" > Subject: Re: [Mgs] mga 1500 with early 5 main mgb engine > Message-ID: <983CC3D7-127F-4FD9-97E0-7533897C6FFD at sonic.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Hmm, the back of that tach case has obviously been modified. Are > you sure it still contains the matching internals? I say this > because for 20 years I ran my Mk. I MGB with the original tach > case, faceplate & needle, but with a cheap auto parts store > mini-tach inside the case. The only modifications were two small > screw holes to attach the mechanism. > > An original MGB Mk. I tach would have had a loop in the white > wire, attached to the back of the case with a thumb nut and a thin > U-shaped brass bracket. I am not seeing that on yours. > > Actually, I guess it is unclear whether you are talking about an > MGA tach or an early MGB tach... > > -- > Max Heim > '66 MGB > > > On Jul 30, 2023, at 5:22 PM, dave northrup wrote: > > > > Negative ground, car runs smoothly, need to install the electric > tach which supposedly was previously installed in this car and > working. > > > > On the back view, what hooks up where?? I am pretty sure the > tab, and the screw, are ground. > > > > The other two ? one needs to go to power and the other to the > coil.? I think one is a female bullet connector; the other is > male.? Which goes to power and which to the coil? > > view.jpg>_______________________________________________ > > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2023 08:38:26 +0100 > From: Paul Hunt > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Mgs] mga 1500 with early 5 main mgb engine > Message-ID: <86e97849-ea66-aad1-c9f9-0556feb82fb0 at gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" > > Not an MGB reference number, it looks like it has later internals > than > but would still be the current-operated type i.e. RVI where the > power to > the coil comes via the tach.? The ignition switch would be > connected to > the male bullet and the female bullet to the coil.? 12v (also from > the > ignition) to the spade and earth to the case.? When used on the MGB > there were separate wires from the ignition switch to the spade > and to > the male bullet but you can tee from one to the other rather than > running a separate wire. > > It would have been helpful to see the top half of the dial where it > might have shown RVI and what polarity it was.? I suspect it would > show > positive earth, but those electronics would have been used with > negative > earth in an MGB for example so it looks like it has been converted by > swapping the guts instead of swapping the wires round internally.? If > that tach was used after the car was converted to negative earth it > would make sense. > > PaulH. > > On 31/07/2023 01:22, dave northrup wrote: > > > > Negative ground, car runs smoothly, need to install the electric > tach > > which supposedly was previously installed in this car and working. > > > > On the back view, what hooks up where?? I am pretty sure the > tab, and > > the screw, are ground. > > > > The other two ? one needs to go to power and the other to the > coil.? I > > think one is a female bullet connector; the other is male.? > Which goes > > to power and which to the coil? > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > > > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > > Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paulbhunt73 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > Mgs mailing list > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Mgs Digest, Vol 194, Issue 12 > ************************************ > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paulbhunt73 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ejrussell61 at gmail.com Tue Aug 1 12:10:52 2023 From: ejrussell61 at gmail.com (Eric Russell) Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2023 14:10:52 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 195, Issue 1 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I believe a tach (short for tachometer) and rev counter refer to the same instrument. And, yes, all MGAs came with a tach as original equipment. EjR On Tue, Aug 1, 2023 at 2:04?PM wrote: > Send Mgs mailing list submissions to > mgs at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > mgs-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > mgs-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Mgs digest..." > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Mgs Digest, Vol 194, Issue 12 (Eric Russell) > 2. Re: Mgs Digest, Vol 194, Issue 12 (Paul Hunt) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2023 16:21:38 -0400 > From: Eric Russell > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 194, Issue 12 > Message-ID: > < > CAP7dBXCk4hzrb9Sj+Ptrny-d40Pms5jk5jhttjOVnATrLE5eNA at mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > My guess is an MGA tach face (Jaeger) or perhaps MGA tach face & case was > used with a different tach's internals. MGB tachs were 'Smiths'. > > MGB tach for MGA is described here: > http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et202c.htm > > EjR > > On Mon, Jul 31, 2023 at 2:08?PM wrote: > > > Send Mgs mailing list submissions to > > mgs at autox.team.net > > > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > > mgs-request at autox.team.net > > > > You can reach the person managing the list at > > mgs-owner at autox.team.net > > > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > > than "Re: Contents of Mgs digest..." > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > > > > > Today's Topics: > > > > 1. mga 1500 with early 5 main mgb engine (dave northrup) > > 2. Re: mga 1500 with early 5 main mgb engine (Max Heim) > > 3. Re: mga 1500 with early 5 main mgb engine (Paul Hunt) > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > Message: 1 > > Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2023 00:22:55 +0000 > > From: dave northrup > > To: "mgs at autox.team.net" > > Subject: [Mgs] mga 1500 with early 5 main mgb engine > > Message-ID: <8ba46f6ebee14b168b5e753f84b72499 at ranteer.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > > > Negative ground, car runs smoothly, need to install the electric tach > > which supposedly was previously installed in this car and working. > > > > On the back view, what hooks up where? I am pretty sure the tab, and the > > screw, are ground. > > > > The other two - one needs to go to power and the other to the coil. I > > think one is a female bullet connector; the other is male. Which goes to > > power and which to the coil? > > -------------- next part -------------- > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > > URL: < > > > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/mgs/attachments/20230731/850f2071/attachment-0001.htm > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: tach front view.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 827772 bytes > > Desc: tach front view.jpg > > URL: < > > > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/mgs/attachments/20230731/850f2071/attachment-0002.jpg > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: tach rear view.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 826250 bytes > > Desc: tach rear view.jpg > > URL: < > > > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/mgs/attachments/20230731/850f2071/attachment-0003.jpg > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > Message: 2 > > Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2023 17:52:40 -0700 > > From: Max Heim > > To: "mgs at autox.team.net" > > Subject: Re: [Mgs] mga 1500 with early 5 main mgb engine > > Message-ID: <983CC3D7-127F-4FD9-97E0-7533897C6FFD at sonic.net> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > > > Hmm, the back of that tach case has obviously been modified. Are you sure > > it still contains the matching internals? I say this because for 20 > years I > > ran my Mk. I MGB with the original tach case, faceplate & needle, but > with > > a cheap auto parts store mini-tach inside the case. The only > modifications > > were two small screw holes to attach the mechanism. > > > > An original MGB Mk. I tach would have had a loop in the white wire, > > attached to the back of the case with a thumb nut and a thin U-shaped > brass > > bracket. I am not seeing that on yours. > > > > Actually, I guess it is unclear whether you are talking about an MGA tach > > or an early MGB tach... > > > > -- > > Max Heim > > '66 MGB > > > > > On Jul 30, 2023, at 5:22 PM, dave northrup wrote: > > > > > > Negative ground, car runs smoothly, need to install the electric tach > > which supposedly was previously installed in this car and working. > > > > > > On the back view, what hooks up where? I am pretty sure the tab, and > > the screw, are ground. > > > > > > The other two ? one needs to go to power and the other to the coil. I > > think one is a female bullet connector; the other is male. Which goes to > > power and which to the coil? > > > > view.jpg>_______________________________________________ > > > > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html < > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs < > > http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs> http://autox.team.net/archive < > > http://autox.team.net/archive> > > > > > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > > URL: < > > > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/mgs/attachments/20230730/c68decc6/attachment-0001.htm > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > Message: 3 > > Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2023 08:38:26 +0100 > > From: Paul Hunt > > To: mgs at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Mgs] mga 1500 with early 5 main mgb engine > > Message-ID: <86e97849-ea66-aad1-c9f9-0556feb82fb0 at gmail.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" > > > > Not an MGB reference number, it looks like it has later internals than > > but would still be the current-operated type i.e. RVI where the power to > > the coil comes via the tach.? The ignition switch would be connected to > > the male bullet and the female bullet to the coil.? 12v (also from the > > ignition) to the spade and earth to the case.? When used on the MGB > > there were separate wires from the ignition switch to the spade and to > > the male bullet but you can tee from one to the other rather than > > running a separate wire. > > > > It would have been helpful to see the top half of the dial where it > > might have shown RVI and what polarity it was.? I suspect it would show > > positive earth, but those electronics would have been used with negative > > earth in an MGB for example so it looks like it has been converted by > > swapping the guts instead of swapping the wires round internally.? If > > that tach was used after the car was converted to negative earth it > > would make sense. > > > > PaulH. > > > > On 31/07/2023 01:22, dave northrup wrote: > > > > > > Negative ground, car runs smoothly, need to install the electric tach > > > which supposedly was previously installed in this car and working. > > > > > > On the back view, what hooks up where?? I am pretty sure the tab, and > > > the screw, are ground. > > > > > > The other two ? one needs to go to power and the other to the coil.? I > > > think one is a female bullet connector; the other is male.? Which goes > > > to power and which to the coil? > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > > > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > > > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > > > Unsubscribe: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paulbhunt73 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > > URL: < > > > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/mgs/attachments/20230731/0ad7ea29/attachment-0001.htm > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > Subject: Digest Footer > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs mailing list > > Mgs at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > End of Mgs Digest, Vol 194, Issue 12 > > ************************************ > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/mgs/attachments/20230731/144c49a7/attachment-0001.htm > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2023 08:13:10 +0100 > From: Paul Hunt > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 194, Issue 12 > Message-ID: <6c64e1d7-8d4b-bc1b-1ace-c98016e66b29 at gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" > > Did any MGAs leave the factory with a tach?? Early MGBs had a rev > counter before they got the tach. > > On 31/07/2023 21:21, Eric Russell wrote: > > My guess is an MGA tach face (Jaeger) or perhaps MGA tach face & case > > was used with a different tach's internals. MGB tachs were 'Smiths'. > > > > MGB tach for MGA is described here: > > http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et202c.htm > > > > EjR > > > > On Mon, Jul 31, 2023 at 2:08?PM wrote: > > > > Send Mgs mailing list submissions to > > mgs at autox.team.net > > > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > > mgs-request at autox.team.net > > > > You can reach the person managing the list at > > mgs-owner at autox.team.net > > > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > > than "Re: Contents of Mgs digest..." > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > > > > > Today's Topics: > > > > ? ?1. mga 1500 with early 5 main mgb engine (dave northrup) > > ? ?2. Re: mga 1500 with early 5 main mgb engine (Max Heim) > > ? ?3. Re: mga 1500 with early 5 main mgb engine (Paul Hunt) > > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > Message: 1 > > Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2023 00:22:55 +0000 > > From: dave northrup > > To: "mgs at autox.team.net" > > Subject: [Mgs] mga 1500 with early 5 main mgb engine > > Message-ID: <8ba46f6ebee14b168b5e753f84b72499 at ranteer.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > > > Negative ground, car runs smoothly, need to install the electric > > tach which supposedly was previously installed in this car and > > working. > > > > On the back view, what hooks up where?? I am pretty sure the tab, > > and the screw, are ground. > > > > The other two - one needs to go to power and the other to the > > coil.? I think one is a female bullet connector; the other is > > male.? Which goes to power and which to the coil? > > -------------- next part -------------- > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > > URL: > > < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/mgs/attachments/20230731/850f2071/attachment-0001.htm > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: tach front view.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 827772 bytes > > Desc: tach front view.jpg > > URL: > > < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/mgs/attachments/20230731/850f2071/attachment-0002.jpg > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: tach rear view.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 826250 bytes > > Desc: tach rear view.jpg > > URL: > > < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/mgs/attachments/20230731/850f2071/attachment-0003.jpg > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > Message: 2 > > Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2023 17:52:40 -0700 > > From: Max Heim > > To: "mgs at autox.team.net" > > Subject: Re: [Mgs] mga 1500 with early 5 main mgb engine > > Message-ID: <983CC3D7-127F-4FD9-97E0-7533897C6FFD at sonic.net> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > > > Hmm, the back of that tach case has obviously been modified. Are > > you sure it still contains the matching internals? I say this > > because for 20 years I ran my Mk. I MGB with the original tach > > case, faceplate & needle, but with a cheap auto parts store > > mini-tach inside the case. The only modifications were two small > > screw holes to attach the mechanism. > > > > An original MGB Mk. I tach would have had a loop in the white > > wire, attached to the back of the case with a thumb nut and a thin > > U-shaped brass bracket. I am not seeing that on yours. > > > > Actually, I guess it is unclear whether you are talking about an > > MGA tach or an early MGB tach... > > > > -- > > Max Heim > > '66 MGB > > > > > On Jul 30, 2023, at 5:22 PM, dave northrup > wrote: > > > > > > Negative ground, car runs smoothly, need to install the electric > > tach which supposedly was previously installed in this car and > > working. > > > > > > On the back view, what hooks up where?? I am pretty sure the > > tab, and the screw, are ground. > > > > > > The other two ? one needs to go to power and the other to the > > coil.? I think one is a female bullet connector; the other is > > male.? Which goes to power and which to the coil? > > > > view.jpg>_______________________________________________ > > > > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs > > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > > > > > Unsubscribe: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > > URL: > > < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/mgs/attachments/20230730/c68decc6/attachment-0001.htm > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > Message: 3 > > Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2023 08:38:26 +0100 > > From: Paul Hunt > > To: mgs at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Mgs] mga 1500 with early 5 main mgb engine > > Message-ID: <86e97849-ea66-aad1-c9f9-0556feb82fb0 at gmail.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" > > > > Not an MGB reference number, it looks like it has later internals > > than > > but would still be the current-operated type i.e. RVI where the > > power to > > the coil comes via the tach.? The ignition switch would be > > connected to > > the male bullet and the female bullet to the coil.? 12v (also from > > the > > ignition) to the spade and earth to the case.? When used on the MGB > > there were separate wires from the ignition switch to the spade > > and to > > the male bullet but you can tee from one to the other rather than > > running a separate wire. > > > > It would have been helpful to see the top half of the dial where it > > might have shown RVI and what polarity it was.? I suspect it would > > show > > positive earth, but those electronics would have been used with > > negative > > earth in an MGB for example so it looks like it has been converted by > > swapping the guts instead of swapping the wires round internally.? If > > that tach was used after the car was converted to negative earth it > > would make sense. > > > > PaulH. > > > > On 31/07/2023 01:22, dave northrup wrote: > > > > > > Negative ground, car runs smoothly, need to install the electric > > tach > > > which supposedly was previously installed in this car and working. > > > > > > On the back view, what hooks up where?? I am pretty sure the > > tab, and > > > the screw, are ground. > > > > > > The other two ? one needs to go to power and the other to the > > coil.? I > > > think one is a female bullet connector; the other is male.? > > Which goes > > > to power and which to the coil? > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > > > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > > > > > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs > > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > > > > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paulbhunt73 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > > URL: > > < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/mgs/attachments/20230731/0ad7ea29/attachment-0001.htm > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > Subject: Digest Footer > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs mailing list > > Mgs at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > End of Mgs Digest, Vol 194, Issue 12 > > ************************************ > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paulbhunt73 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/mgs/attachments/20230801/4ae103d8/attachment-0001.htm > > > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > Mgs mailing list > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Mgs Digest, Vol 195, Issue 1 > *********************************** > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Wed Aug 2 01:06:19 2023 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2023 08:06:19 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 195, Issue 1 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5abbdcc2-3835-d1b0-18ea-eacb5bc52ee6@virginmedia.com> A rev counter is a mechanical device driven by a cable from the block.? A tachometer is an electronic device driven by electrical pulses from the coil.? They are completely different. PaulH. On 01/08/2023 19:10, Eric Russell wrote: > I believe a tach (short for tachometer) and rev counter refer to the > same instrument. > > And, yes, all MGAs came with a tach as original equipment. > > EjR > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Wed Aug 2 07:29:36 2023 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup) Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2023 13:29:36 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 195, Issue 1 In-Reply-To: <5abbdcc2-3835-d1b0-18ea-eacb5bc52ee6@virginmedia.com> References: <5abbdcc2-3835-d1b0-18ea-eacb5bc52ee6@virginmedia.com> Message-ID: From Wikipedia A tachometer (revolution-counter, tach, rev-counter, RPM gauge) is an instrument measuring the rotation speed of a shaft or disk, as in a motor or other machine.[1] The device usually displays the revolutions per minute (RPM) on a calibrated analogue dial, but digital displays are increasingly common. The word comes from Greek ????? (t?chos "speed") and ?????? (m?tron "measure"). Essentially the words tachometer and speedometer have identical meaning: a device that measures speed. It is by arbitrary convention that in the automotive world one is used for engine revolutions and the other for vehicle speed. In formal engineering nomenclature, more precise terms are used to distinguish the two. From dictionary.com tachometer [ ta-kom-i-ter, tuh- ]SHOW IPA [cid:image001.png at 01D9C51B.79A781B0] ________________________________ noun 1. any of various instruments for measuring or indicating velocity or speed, as of a machine, a river, or the blood. 2. an instrument measuring revolutions per minute, as of an engine. From: Mgs On Behalf Of PaulHunt73 Sent: Wednesday, August 2, 2023 2:06 AM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 195, Issue 1 A rev counter is a mechanical device driven by a cable from the block. A tachometer is an electronic device driven by electrical pulses from the coil. They are completely different. PaulH. On 01/08/2023 19:10, Eric Russell wrote: I believe a tach (short for tachometer) and rev counter refer to the same instrument. And, yes, all MGAs came with a tach as original equipment. EjR -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 177 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: From paulbhunt73 at gmail.com Thu Aug 3 01:44:59 2023 From: paulbhunt73 at gmail.com (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2023 08:44:59 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 195, Issue 1 In-Reply-To: References: <5abbdcc2-3835-d1b0-18ea-eacb5bc52ee6@virginmedia.com> Message-ID: <2e435913-2fec-77f0-70f9-a0031be74206@gmail.com> Both those are describing the function of the instrument which is the same in both cases and is not the point in question.? Even so the first definition includes the statement "In formal engineering nomenclature, more precise terms are used to distinguish the two.". The PO's question was how do I connect a _tachometer_ , and the answer to that is fundamentally different to a rev counter.? A rev counter displays the rate at which a cable drive is turning, a tachometer measures the time between successive electrical pulses.? In the rev counter case it doesn't matter whether it is on a 4, 6 or 8 (etc.) cylinder whereas for a tachometer the pulses from an 8 cylinder engine are coming in at twice the rate of a 4-cylinder and there have to be _internal_ differences in the tachometer to display that correctly.? If the terms are used interchangeably then when responding to a (formal engineering?) question you would first have to establish which one is being talked about! PaulH. On 02/08/2023 14:29, dave northrup wrote: > > From Wikipedia > > A *tachometer*?(*revolution-counter*, *tach*, *rev-counter*, *RPM > gauge*) is an instrument measuring the rotation speed of a shaft > ?or disk, as in a motor or other > machine.^[1] > ?The device usually displays the revolutions per minute > ?(RPM) on a > calibrated analogue dial, but digital displays are increasingly common. > > The word comes from Greek > ???????(/t?chos/?"speed") > and????????(/m?tron/?"measure"). Essentially the words tachometer and > speedometer ?have identical > meaning: a device that measures speed. It is by arbitrary convention > that in the automotive world one is used for engine revolutions and > the other for vehicle speed. In formal engineering nomenclature, more > precise terms are used to distinguish the two. > > From dictionary.com > > *tachometer* > > [ ta-*kom*-i-ter, t/uh/- ]SHOW IPA > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > /noun/ > > 1. any of various instruments for measuring or indicating velocity or > speed, as of a machine, a river, or the blood. > 2. an instrument measuring revolutions per minute, as of an engine. > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 177 bytes Desc: not available URL: From barneymg at mgaguru.com Thu Aug 3 11:43:52 2023 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2023 12:43:52 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 195, Issue 1 In-Reply-To: <2e435913-2fec-77f0-70f9-a0031be74206@gmail.com> References: <5abbdcc2-3835-d1b0-18ea-eacb5bc52ee6@virginmedia.com> <2e435913-2fec-77f0-70f9-a0031be74206@gmail.com> Message-ID: I dunno abott that "formal engineering nomenclature" stuff. I'm an engineer, and in my world "rev counter" may be the British (English) term for a tachometer, but otherwise rev counter and tachometer are the same thing in the automotive world, regardless of the type of signal input. Just for reference, here are examples of dozens of tachometers, many mechanically driven and having nothing to do with ignition systems or any kind of electrical input: https://duckduckgo.com/?q=hand+tachometer&iax=images&ia=images&iai=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.cetm.com.sg%2F1534-superlarge_default%2Facision-tm1100-hand-held-tachometer.jpg&t=ffab At 02:44 AM 8/3/2023, Paul Hunt wrote: >.... >Both those are describing the function of the >instrument which is the same in both cases and >is not the point in question. Even so the first >definition includes the statement "In formal >engineering nomenclature, more precise terms are used to distinguish the two.". > >The PO's question was how do I connect a >_tachometer_ , and the answer to that is >fundamentally different to a rev counter. rev >counter displays the rate at which a cable drive >is turning, a tachometer measures the time >between successive electrical pulses. In the rev >counter case it doesn't matter whether it is on >a 4, 6 or 8 (etc.) cylinder whereas for a >tachometer the pulses from an 8 cylinder engine >are coming in at twice the rate of a 4-cylinder >and there have to be _internal_ differences in >the tachometer to display that correctly. If the >terms are used interchangeably then when >responding to a (formal engineering?) question >you would first have to establish which one is being talked about! > >PaulH. >On 02/08/2023 14:29, dave northrup wrote: >> >> From Wikipedia >> >>A tachometer (revolution-counter, tach, >>rev-counter, RPM gauge) is an instrument >>measuring the rotation speed of a >>shaft or >>disk, as in a motor or other >>machine.[1] >>The device usually displays the >>revolutions >>per >>minute >>(RPM) on a calibrated analogue dial, but >>digital displays are increasingly common. >> >>The word comes from >>Greek >>?????????? (t?chos "speed") and ???????????? >>(m??tron "measure"). Essentially the words >>tachometer and >>speedometer >>have identical meaning: a device that measures >>speed. It is by arbitrary convention that in >>the automotive world one is used for engine >>revolutions and the other for vehicle speed. In >>formal engineering nomenclature, more precise >>terms are used to distinguish the two. >> >> From dictionary.com >> >>tachometer >> >>[ ta-kom-i-ter, tuh- ]SHOW IPA >> >>---------- >>noun >> * any of various instruments for measuring >> or indicating velocity or speed, as of a machine, a river, or the blood. >> * an instrument measuring revolutions per minute, as of an engine. -- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Mon Aug 7 00:21:23 2023 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark Bradakis) Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2023 00:21:23 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Well, somebody might like it. Message-ID: <835c00bc-9aa4-80e0-a107-c859410e823e@bradakis.com> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9RMv8SzcHO4 mjb. From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Mon Aug 7 06:36:02 2023 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (h.duinhoven at planet.nl) Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2023 14:36:02 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Well, somebody might like it. In-Reply-To: <835c00bc-9aa4-80e0-a107-c859410e823e@bradakis.com> References: <835c00bc-9aa4-80e0-a107-c859410e823e@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <000d01d9c92b$ba04e540$2e0eafc0$@planet.nl> As a guy living in Europe, I'd say no. It does not fit on our roads. The engine's power is an overkill. The character of the original MGB is lost. If one would like to have a V8 in an MGB, go fort he 1974 MGB GT V8. The engine has the same weight as the original B-Series engine The suspension was slightly altered, but the great roadholding was kept. Cheers, Hans -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: Mgs Namens Mark Bradakis Verzonden: maandag 7 augustus 2023 08:21 Aan: mgs at autox.team.net Onderwerp: [Mgs] Well, somebody might like it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9RMv8SzcHO4 mjb. _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/h.duinhoven at planet.nl From dan.dibiase at gmail.com Mon Aug 7 07:00:37 2023 From: dan.dibiase at gmail.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2023 09:00:37 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Well, somebody might like it. In-Reply-To: <835c00bc-9aa4-80e0-a107-c859410e823e@bradakis.com> References: <835c00bc-9aa4-80e0-a107-c859410e823e@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Meh. Dan D ?76 B Central NJ USA On Mon, Aug 7, 2023 at 3:57 AM Mark Bradakis wrote: > > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9RMv8SzcHO4 > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Mon Aug 7 07:14:49 2023 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (h.duinhoven at planet.nl) Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2023 15:14:49 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Without my MG Message-ID: <001601d9c931$2561b0c0$70251240$@planet.nl> Dear friends, We have moved home, which is much smaller than the previous one. This also was applicable for the space in the garage. So I had to make a choice - either keeping my MG, or my 3 classic Puch mopeds from the seventies. I have been measuring a lot and came tot he conclusion, that the 3 Puch mopeds are to stay and the MG had to go. After 33 years of joy with my MGB GT from California, restoring it, driving it, and rarely being stranded because of a malfunctioned ignition rotor of only 9 months and <2,000 miles old) I sold it. I want to thank the listers for their friendship. Especially those listers whom I met during my several visits tot he USA and UK, or who came to visit me: Rick Lindsay Rui Gigante Bud Krueger - special thanks to Bud for being twice my kind host of the day Carl French Mike Nadeau Frank Krajewski Steve Walker Trefor Delve Paul Hinchcliffe Denise Thorpe - who also did a lot of work on het MGB by herself! Alex Gotfried Ed Kaler of Justbrits. Jim Goodwin of Colorado Springs very special thanks for organizing a fantastic tour around the Garden of the Gods in February 2011 Pics of the Boston area events at Bud Krueger's site: http://www.ttalk.info/Tech/hans_across_the_water.htm http://www.ttalk.info/hans2.htm Paul Hunt - special thanks to Paul, whom I met a the Heritage Museum Gaydon UK My MG pictured during this visit in the UK in July 2011 Paul & me pictured with our cars in front of the museum: The list has helped me with the restoration of my GT and after learning on the job, I was able to help others. Thanks everyone! If our moderator is o.k. with it, I'd like to stay in a more listing / lurking mode. Cheers, Hans Duinhoven -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 2336305 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.png Type: image/png Size: 1586428 bytes Desc: not available URL: From barroban at outlook.com Mon Aug 7 08:21:29 2023 From: barroban at outlook.com (Windows 10) Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2023 10:21:29 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] The delightful MGB GT V8 In-Reply-To: <000d01d9c92b$ba04e540$2e0eafc0$@planet.nl> References: <835c00bc-9aa4-80e0-a107-c859410e823e@bradakis.com> <000d01d9c92b$ba04e540$2e0eafc0$@planet.nl> Message-ID: I restore Brit cars as a hobby - although age has now curtailed my efforts somewhat.?? I built an MGB GT V8 from scratch by restoring (to perfection I may add!) a sad MGB GT and installing a V8 from RPi UK.??? To say the character of the MGB is lost is inaccurate.?? I upped the rear axle as done on the "C" and the handling etc is still there.??? I think people get confused with the power of the V8 but if you adapt rather than get confused all is well.??? I drive my V8? with gusto but I still find the MGB in there - and weight distribution is 50/50.??? You just have to use the loud pedal with skill - and roads are roads whatever country you are? in. The amusing thing is that as V8s were not sold in Canada (where i am) or in the USA the model is practically unknown there.? So reactions are quite amusing !! On 8/7/2023 8:36 AM, h.duinhoven at planet.nl wrote: > As a guy living in Europe, I'd say no. > It does not fit on our roads. > The engine's power is an overkill. > The character of the original MGB is lost. > > If one would like to have a V8 in an MGB, go fort he 1974 MGB GT V8. > The engine has the same weight as the original B-Series engine > The suspension was slightly altered, but the great roadholding was kept. > > Cheers, Hans > > > -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- > Van: Mgs Namens Mark Bradakis > Verzonden: maandag 7 augustus 2023 08:21 > Aan:mgs at autox.team.net > Onderwerp: [Mgs] Well, somebody might like it. > > > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9RMv8SzcHO4 > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/h.duinhoven at planet.nl > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barroban at outlook.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ddarby at centurytel.net Mon Aug 7 08:43:54 2023 From: ddarby at centurytel.net (David F. Darby) Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2023 09:43:54 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Without my MG In-Reply-To: <001601d9c931$2561b0c0$70251240$@planet.nl> References: <001601d9c931$2561b0c0$70251240$@planet.nl> Message-ID: <001201d9c93d$97ad3800$c707a800$@centurytel.net> Hello Hans, Thanks for the heartfelt post. Although we never met, I've always enjoyed your comments and insights. All the best, David Darby Missouri USA From: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of h.duinhoven at planet.nl Sent: Monday, August 7, 2023 8:15 AM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] Without my MG Dear friends, We have moved home, which is much smaller than the previous one. This also was applicable for the space in the garage. So I had to make a choice - either keeping my MG, or my 3 classic Puch mopeds from the seventies. I have been measuring a lot and came tot he conclusion, that the 3 Puch mopeds are to stay and the MG had to go. After 33 years of joy with my MGB GT from California, restoring it, driving it, and rarely being stranded because of a malfunctioned ignition rotor of only 9 months and <2,000 miles old) I sold it. I want to thank the listers for their friendship. Especially those listers whom I met during my several visits tot he USA and UK, or who came to visit me: Rick Lindsay Rui Gigante Bud Krueger - special thanks to Bud for being twice my kind host of the day Carl French Mike Nadeau Frank Krajewski Steve Walker Trefor Delve Paul Hinchcliffe Denise Thorpe - who also did a lot of work on het MGB by herself! Alex Gotfried Ed Kaler of Justbrits. Jim Goodwin of Colorado Springs very special thanks for organizing a fantastic tour around the Garden of the Gods in February 2011 Pics of the Boston area events at Bud Krueger's site: http://www.ttalk.info/Tech/hans_across_the_water.htm http://www.ttalk.info/hans2.htm Paul Hunt - special thanks to Paul, whom I met a the Heritage Museum Gaydon UK My MG pictured during this visit in the UK in July 2011 Paul & me pictured with our cars in front of the museum: The list has helped me with the restoration of my GT and after learning on the job, I was able to help others. Thanks everyone! If our moderator is o.k. with it, I'd like to stay in a more listing / lurking mode. Cheers, Hans Duinhoven -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From barroban at outlook.com Mon Aug 7 09:41:19 2023 From: barroban at outlook.com (Windows 10) Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2023 11:41:19 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Without my MG In-Reply-To: <001601d9c931$2561b0c0$70251240$@planet.nl> References: <001601d9c931$2561b0c0$70251240$@planet.nl> Message-ID: Hello Hans, Oh my oath !! How could you sell your MGB GT ? .?? I built an MGB GT V8 from scratch and I love it.?? I too got short of garage space and took the choice of selling my Aston Martin DB 2/4 MkII or the MGB and the MGB GT V8 won ? - I know that is strange but the value of the Aston did restrict my vroom vroom enjoyment - the V8 gives me that without the financial worry. As I have hit 90 my resto days are over so the MGB gives the pleasure I need.?? Oh but I am heavy into my other hobby - antique maps - see photo. All the very best Barrie On 8/7/2023 9:14 AM, h.duinhoven at planet.nl wrote: > > Dear friends, > > We have moved home, which is much smaller than the previous one. > > This also was applicable for the space in the garage. > > So I had to make a choice ? either keeping my MG, or my 3 classic Puch > mopeds from the seventies. > > I have been measuring a lot and came tot he conclusion, that the 3 > Puch mopeds are to stay and the MG had to go. > > After 33 years of joy with my MGB GT from California, restoring it, > driving it, and rarely being stranded because of a malfunctioned > ignition rotor of only 9 months and <2,000 miles old) I sold it. > > I want to thank the listers for their friendship. > > Especially those listers whom I met during my several visits tot he > USA and UK, or who came to visit me: > > Rick Lindsay > > Rui Gigante > > Bud Krueger?????? - special thanks to Bud for being twice my kind host > of the day > > Carl French > > Mike Nadeau > > Frank Krajewski > > Steve Walker > > Trefor Delve > > Paul Hinchcliffe > > Denise Thorpe ? who also did a lot of work on het MGB by herself! > > Alex Gotfried > > Ed Kaler of Justbrits? > > Jim Goodwin of Colorado Springs very special thanks for organizing a > fantastic tour around the Garden of the Gods in February 2011 > > Pics of the Boston area events at Bud Krueger?s site: > > http://www.ttalk.info/Tech/hans_across_the_water.htm > > http://www.ttalk.info/hans2.htm > > Paul Hunt??????????? - special thanks to Paul, whom I met a the > Heritage Museum Gaydon UK > > My MG pictured during this visit in the UK in July 2011 > > Paul & me pictured with our cars in front of the museum: > > The list has helped me with the restoration of my GT and after > learning on the job, I was able to help others. > > Thanks everyone! > > If our moderator is o.k. with it, I?d like to stay in a more listing / > lurking mode. > > Cheers, > > Hans Duinhoven > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barroban at outlook.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 2336305 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.png Type: image/png Size: 1586428 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Ortelius in Study.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 47136 bytes Desc: not available URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Mon Aug 7 09:43:04 2023 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2023 08:43:04 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Well, somebody might like it. In-Reply-To: References: <835c00bc-9aa4-80e0-a107-c859410e823e@bradakis.com> Message-ID: I read an article on this car some time ago. Nope. If I wanted a wide V8 roadster I would buy a Corvette. The MGB is right in the Goldilocks zone as it stands ? not too big, not too small. -- Max Heim '66 MGB > On Aug 7, 2023, at 6:00 AM, Dan DiBiase wrote: > > Meh. > > Dan D > ?76 B > Central NJ USA > > On Mon, Aug 7, 2023 at 3:57 AM Mark Bradakis > wrote: > > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9RMv8SzcHO4 > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dan.dibiase at gmail.com Mon Aug 7 10:02:45 2023 From: dan.dibiase at gmail.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2023 12:02:45 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Without my MG In-Reply-To: <001601d9c931$2561b0c0$70251240$@planet.nl> References: <001601d9c931$2561b0c0$70251240$@planet.nl> Message-ID: Sorry to hear that, Hans...... I'm in a similar boat, or will be in a few years when we head out of New Jersey to somewhere warmer year round in a couple of years. It's actually not very enjoyable to drive my B in the summer as it's too damn hot, and the hot season seems to be extending in either direction on the calendar these days, so the number of days I can really enjoy driving the car is getting less and less.... And when we do move we will be downsizing as well, so may not have the garage space to keep the car. Dan D '76B Central NJ USA On Mon, Aug 7, 2023 at 10:31?AM wrote: > Dear friends, > > > > We have moved home, which is much smaller than the previous one. > > This also was applicable for the space in the garage. > > So I had to make a choice ? either keeping my MG, or my 3 classic Puch > mopeds from the seventies. > > I have been measuring a lot and came tot he conclusion, that the 3 Puch > mopeds are to stay and the MG had to go. > > After 33 years of joy with my MGB GT from California, restoring it, > driving it, and rarely being stranded because of a malfunctioned ignition > rotor of only 9 months and <2,000 miles old) I sold it. > > > > I want to thank the listers for their friendship. > > Especially those listers whom I met during my several visits tot he USA > and UK, or who came to visit me: > > Rick Lindsay > > Rui Gigante > > Bud Krueger - special thanks to Bud for being twice my kind host of > the day > > Carl French > > Mike Nadeau > > Frank Krajewski > > Steve Walker > > Trefor Delve > > Paul Hinchcliffe > > Denise Thorpe ? who also did a lot of work on het MGB by herself! > > Alex Gotfried > > Ed Kaler of Justbrits? > > > > Jim Goodwin of Colorado Springs very special thanks for organizing a > fantastic tour around the Garden of the Gods in February 2011 > > > > Pics of the Boston area events at Bud Krueger?s site: > > http://www.ttalk.info/Tech/hans_across_the_water.htm > > http://www.ttalk.info/hans2.htm > > > > Paul Hunt - special thanks to Paul, whom I met a the Heritage > Museum Gaydon UK > > My MG pictured during this visit in the UK in July 2011 > > > > Paul & me pictured with our cars in front of the museum: > > > > > > The list has helped me with the restoration of my GT and after learning on > the job, I was able to help others. > > Thanks everyone! > > > > If our moderator is o.k. with it, I?d like to stay in a more listing / > lurking mode. > > > > Cheers, > > > > Hans Duinhoven > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 2336305 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.png Type: image/png Size: 1586428 bytes Desc: not available URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Mon Aug 7 10:13:12 2023 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2023 11:13:12 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Without my MG In-Reply-To: <001601d9c931$2561b0c0$70251240$@planet.nl> References: <001601d9c931$2561b0c0$70251240$@planet.nl> Message-ID: Thank you Hans. As you know, both of my MGs are gone too. Sigh... On Mon, Aug 7, 2023, 9:37 AM wrote: > Dear friends, > > > > We have moved home, which is much smaller than the previous one. > > This also was applicable for the space in the garage. > > So I had to make a choice ? either keeping my MG, or my 3 classic Puch > mopeds from the seventies. > > I have been measuring a lot and came tot he conclusion, that the 3 Puch > mopeds are to stay and the MG had to go. > > After 33 years of joy with my MGB GT from California, restoring it, > driving it, and rarely being stranded because of a malfunctioned ignition > rotor of only 9 months and <2,000 miles old) I sold it. > > > > I want to thank the listers for their friendship. > > Especially those listers whom I met during my several visits tot he USA > and UK, or who came to visit me: > > Rick Lindsay > > Rui Gigante > > Bud Krueger - special thanks to Bud for being twice my kind host of > the day > > Carl French > > Mike Nadeau > > Frank Krajewski > > Steve Walker > > Trefor Delve > > Paul Hinchcliffe > > Denise Thorpe ? who also did a lot of work on het MGB by herself! > > Alex Gotfried > > Ed Kaler of Justbrits? > > > > Jim Goodwin of Colorado Springs very special thanks for organizing a > fantastic tour around the Garden of the Gods in February 2011 > > > > Pics of the Boston area events at Bud Krueger?s site: > > http://www.ttalk.info/Tech/hans_across_the_water.htm > > http://www.ttalk.info/hans2.htm > > > > Paul Hunt - special thanks to Paul, whom I met a the Heritage > Museum Gaydon UK > > My MG pictured during this visit in the UK in July 2011 > > > > Paul & me pictured with our cars in front of the museum: > > > > > > The list has helped me with the restoration of my GT and after learning on > the job, I was able to help others. > > Thanks everyone! > > > > If our moderator is o.k. with it, I?d like to stay in a more listing / > lurking mode. > > > > Cheers, > > > > Hans Duinhoven > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richardolindsay at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 2336305 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.png Type: image/png Size: 1586428 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 2336305 bytes Desc: not available URL: From chillmog at sbcglobal.net Mon Aug 7 15:17:46 2023 From: chillmog at sbcglobal.net (Charles Hill) Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2023 16:17:46 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Without my MG In-Reply-To: References: <001601d9c931$2561b0c0$70251240$@planet.nl> Message-ID: Seems to be a lot of that going around.? I no longer have my MG or a Morgan.? Old age and poor health contribute.? At least I still have my S2000.? Not the same but better than nothing. Charles Hillbb On 8/7/2023 11:13 AM, Richard Lindsay wrote: > Thank you Hans. As you know, both of my MGs are gone too. Sigh... > > On Mon, Aug 7, 2023, 9:37 AM wrote: > > Dear friends, > > We have moved home, which is much smaller than the previous one. > > This also was applicable for the space in the garage. > > So I had to make a choice ? either keeping my MG, or my 3 classic > Puch mopeds from the seventies. > > I have been measuring a lot and came tot he conclusion, that the 3 > Puch mopeds are to stay and the MG had to go. > > After 33 years of joy with my MGB GT from California, restoring > it, driving it, and rarely being stranded because of a > malfunctioned ignition rotor of only 9 months and <2,000 miles > old) I sold it. > > I want to thank the listers for their friendship. > > Especially those listers whom I met during my several visits tot > he USA and UK, or who came to visit me: > > Rick Lindsay > > Rui Gigante > > Bud Krueger?????? - special thanks to Bud for being twice my kind > host of the day > > Carl French > > Mike Nadeau > > Frank Krajewski > > Steve Walker > > Trefor Delve > > Paul Hinchcliffe > > Denise Thorpe ? who also did a lot of work on het MGB by herself! > > Alex Gotfried > > Ed Kaler of Justbrits? > > Jim Goodwin of Colorado Springs very special thanks for organizing > a fantastic tour around the Garden of the Gods in February 2011 > > Pics of the Boston area events at Bud Krueger?s site: > > http://www.ttalk.info/Tech/hans_across_the_water.htm > > http://www.ttalk.info/hans2.htm > > Paul Hunt??????????? - special thanks to Paul, whom I met a the > Heritage Museum Gaydon UK > > My MG pictured during this visit in the UK in July 2011 > > Paul & me pictured with our cars in front of the museum: > > The list has helped me with the restoration of my GT and after > learning on the job, I was able to help others. > > Thanks everyone! > > If our moderator is o.k. with it, I?d like to stay in a more > listing / lurking mode. > > Cheers, > > Hans Duinhoven > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richardolindsay at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/chillmog at sbcglobal.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Tue Aug 8 09:38:57 2023 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2023 08:38:57 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Well, somebody might like it. In-Reply-To: References: <835c00bc-9aa4-80e0-a107-c859410e823e@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <3920A64A-F4E2-4F7B-801A-F215B5FD443B@sonic.net> Well, it?s kind of what my father used to call ?an answer to a question that nobody asked?. Lots of people put V8s in MGs without radical surgery that changes the character of the car and leaves it barely recognizable. Why? It?s the sort of stunt you might kick around over a beer, but actually doing it seems almost pointless, not to mention expensive. Oh, well, we all have dreams, I suppose... -- Max Heim '66 MGB > On Aug 8, 2023, at 1:30 AM, Larry Colen wrote: > > > >> On Aug 7, 2023, at 8:43 AM, Max Heim wrote: >> >> I read an article on this car some time ago. Nope. If I wanted a wide V8 roadster I would buy a Corvette. The MGB is right in the Goldilocks zone as it stands ? not too big, not too small. > > A car doesn't have to be one that I'd want for myself for me to appreciate it. I certainly understand why people like American muscle cars, and one could be fun for a little while, though less so when I'm paying $4.50/gallon for regular > > > -- > Larry Colen > lrc at red4est.com. sent from Mirkwood > > > > From herr_dorsch at yahoo.com Tue Aug 8 13:08:28 2023 From: herr_dorsch at yahoo.com (Zach Dorsch) Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2023 19:08:28 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Mgs] Well, somebody might like it. In-Reply-To: <3920A64A-F4E2-4F7B-801A-F215B5FD443B@sonic.net> References: <835c00bc-9aa4-80e0-a107-c859410e823e@bradakis.com> <3920A64A-F4E2-4F7B-801A-F215B5FD443B@sonic.net> Message-ID: <371143734.1327643.1691521708074@mail.yahoo.com> I think that is the third version of the car since Jim has owned it (and it?s been featured in more than few places). My dad, who is not into MG?s, mentioned the car?to me?after seeing?the metal work?on one of the hot rodder sites. At the very least it?s exposing the B to a larger audience. His build thread is fairly detailed and this seems more like a project that keeps him busy.? http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?13,7581? Zach On Tuesday, August 8, 2023, 1:52 PM, Max Heim wrote: Well, it?s kind of what my father used to call ?an answer to a question that nobody asked?. Lots of people put V8s in MGs without radical surgery that changes the character of the car and leaves it barely recognizable. Why? It?s the sort of stunt you might kick around over a beer, but actually doing it seems almost pointless, not to mention expensive. Oh, well, we all have dreams, I suppose... -- Max Heim '66 MGB > On Aug 8, 2023, at 1:30 AM, Larry Colen wrote: > > > >> On Aug 7, 2023, at 8:43 AM, Max Heim wrote: >> >> I read an article on this car some time ago. Nope. If I wanted a wide V8 roadster I would buy a Corvette. The MGB is right in the Goldilocks zone as it stands ? not too big, not too small. > > A car doesn't have to be one that I'd want for myself for me to appreciate it.? I certainly understand why people like American muscle cars, and one could be fun for a little while, though less so when I'm paying $4.50/gallon for regular > > > -- > Larry Colen > lrc at red4est.com.? sent from Mirkwood > > > > _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/herr_dorsch at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Tue Aug 8 13:35:58 2023 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup) Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2023 19:35:58 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] mga 1500 with early 5 main mgb engine In-Reply-To: <983CC3D7-127F-4FD9-97E0-7533897C6FFD@sonic.net> References: <8ba46f6ebee14b168b5e753f84b72499@ranteer.com> <983CC3D7-127F-4FD9-97E0-7533897C6FFD@sonic.net> Message-ID: <3411356e650041da97b2be3a4baba303@ranteer.com> I do not know the origins of the tach. I have no idea what is inside it and I have not taken it apart. The car came to me in kit form. I don?t really even know if the tach worked. Any way to test it? I do know that with the tach hooked up the engine runs, so power is at least going through it. this is the only source of power for the coil. Anyone have an mgb electic tach to sell? I?d like to hook up something that is a known quantity. From: Mgs On Behalf Of Max Heim Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2023 7:53 PM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] mga 1500 with early 5 main mgb engine Hmm, the back of that tach case has obviously been modified. Are you sure it still contains the matching internals? I say this because for 20 years I ran my Mk. I MGB with the original tach case, faceplate & needle, but with a cheap auto parts store mini-tach inside the case. The only modifications were two small screw holes to attach the mechanism. An original MGB Mk. I tach would have had a loop in the white wire, attached to the back of the case with a thumb nut and a thin U-shaped brass bracket. I am not seeing that on yours. Actually, I guess it is unclear whether you are talking about an MGA tach or an early MGB tach... -- Max Heim '66 MGB On Jul 30, 2023, at 5:22 PM, dave northrup > wrote: Negative ground, car runs smoothly, need to install the electric tach which supposedly was previously installed in this car and working. On the back view, what hooks up where? I am pretty sure the tab, and the screw, are ground. The other two ? one needs to go to power and the other to the coil. I think one is a female bullet connector; the other is male. Which goes to power and which to the coil? _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Tue Aug 8 13:44:17 2023 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup) Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2023 19:44:17 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] mga clutch bleeding Message-ID: <0439b35b19984891a62db0488aec7310@ranteer.com> Car is a 58 mga. Bled the brakes just fine but I can't get action out of the clutch. Have speedbleeder on it but that's not working for me. Several times the wife pumped the clutch about 10 times with the bleed valve closed, then I would open it and pretty much nothing came out. If I leave the valve open and pump fluid does come out. The master is new. I think the slave is new as well. I recognize either one could be an out of box failure. I've gone through mgaguru but I don't see the answer I need. So frustrated I've thought about replace both the master and slave, but I'm not convinced that's the problem. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulbhunt73 at gmail.com Wed Aug 9 01:21:45 2023 From: paulbhunt73 at gmail.com (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2023 08:21:45 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] mga 1500 with early 5 main mgb engine In-Reply-To: <3411356e650041da97b2be3a4baba303@ranteer.com> References: <8ba46f6ebee14b168b5e753f84b72499@ranteer.com> <983CC3D7-127F-4FD9-97E0-7533897C6FFD@sonic.net> <3411356e650041da97b2be3a4baba303@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <09c19114-5cd1-6b45-bd0b-8f55948fd1e7@gmail.com> Have you disconnected the tach with the engine running and confirmed it stops? You can check the calibration using an old-fashioned trickle charger but if it's not working with coil current passing through it then it won't work on that either.? The only thing you can do (apart from sending it away to someone) is to open it up and look for any broken connections in wiring and an the circuit board.? If you are familiar with electronics there are certain tests you can do inside.? This circuit https://www.classictiger.com/techtips/motach.html is of the early tach with the external pickup and this one the later internal http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/harvit.htm.? It can also be converted to the later voltage pulse type with a module as here http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/rvctach.htm PaulH. On 08/08/2023 20:35, dave northrup wrote: > > I do not know the origins of the tach.? I have no idea what is inside > it and I have not taken it apart. The car came to me in kit form.? I > don?t really even know if the tach worked.? Any way to test it? > > I do know that with the tach hooked up the engine runs, so power is at > least going through it.? ?this is the only source of power for the > coil.? Anyone have an mgb electic tach to sell?? I?d like to hook up > something that is a known quantity. > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulbhunt73 at gmail.com Wed Aug 9 01:29:44 2023 From: paulbhunt73 at gmail.com (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2023 08:29:44 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] mga clutch bleeding In-Reply-To: <0439b35b19984891a62db0488aec7310@ranteer.com> References: <0439b35b19984891a62db0488aec7310@ranteer.com> Message-ID: On an MGB:? A Gunson's Eezibleed would confirm that fluid is flowing freely through the system, or perhaps a Mityvac.? Make sure the pedal comes fully back - disconnecting the pedal clevis if necessary, or fluid can't get down from the reservoir to the cylinder and the rest of the hydraulics. Try wedging the pedal fully down overnight (bleed nipple closed) then release it next morning as you would with your foot i.e. not with a bang just knocking the prop away.? Hopefully you will hear gurgling as air is pushed back from the pipe into the reservoir. May have to do that a couple of times. PaulH. On 08/08/2023 20:44, dave northrup wrote: > Car is a 58 mga.? Bled the brakes just fine but I can?t get action out > of the clutch. > > Have speedbleeder on it but that?s not working for me. > > Several times the wife pumped the clutch about 10 times with the bleed > valve closed, then I would open it and pretty much nothing came out. > > If I leave the valve open and pump fluid does come out. > > The master is new.? I think the slave is new as well.? I recognize > either one could be an out of box failure. > > I?ve gone through mgaguru but I don?t see the answer I need. > > So frustrated I?ve thought about replace both the master and slave, > but I?m not convinced that?s the problem. > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paulbhunt73 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mgbobh at gmail.com Wed Aug 9 06:11:03 2023 From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2023 08:11:03 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] mga clutch bleeding In-Reply-To: <0439b35b19984891a62db0488aec7310@ranteer.com> References: <0439b35b19984891a62db0488aec7310@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <83D54398-33ED-4644-9D0F-F2F00D9A54CC@gmail.com> Everyone who has ever bled a clutch on MGA or MGB has a sad tale of difficulty to relate. Those who have owned TDs with rods&lever or the cable remember how easy that job of adjustment was. Everyone has a method that eventually worked. Mine is to fill as I assume they did at the factory?figure out the quantity of fluid in the entire system, then push that amount in at the clutch with a syringe until MC fills. The thought is that pushing up from the bottom will take any bubbles along with the fluid to the top. Worked for me. Hope it works for you. Bob > On Aug 8, 2023, at 3:44 PM, dave northrup wrote: > > Car is a 58 mga. Bled the brakes just fine but I can?t get action out of the clutch. > > Have speedbleeder on it but that?s not working for me. > > Several times the wife pumped the clutch about 10 times with the bleed valve closed, then I would open it and pretty much nothing came out. > > If I leave the valve open and pump fluid does come out. > > The master is new. I think the slave is new as well. I recognize either one could be an out of box failure. > > I?ve gone through mgaguru but I don?t see the answer I need. > > So frustrated I?ve thought about replace both the master and slave, but I?m not convinced that?s the problem. > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulbhunt73 at gmail.com Wed Aug 9 08:12:13 2023 From: paulbhunt73 at gmail.com (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2023 15:12:13 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] mga clutch bleeding In-Reply-To: <83D54398-33ED-4644-9D0F-F2F00D9A54CC@gmail.com> References: <0439b35b19984891a62db0488aec7310@ranteer.com> <83D54398-33ED-4644-9D0F-F2F00D9A54CC@gmail.com> Message-ID: I don't think the factory did it that way - they would have done it the same as the brakes from the Master.? But they used a higher pressure and hence flow than is safe with an EeziBleed, and I have read of workshops with similar higher-pressure equipment also do it without problems. But for us poor owners yes reverse filling has worked for me as well - albeit not every time.? The first time I did I connected the EeziBleed to the clutch slave until I could see fluid in the master, then topped off as normal, and had a perfect clutch.? The second time I did something else recommended and that was link the right caliper and clutch slave nipples - they are the same size, and while someone gently operated the brake pedal opened and closed the clutch nipple - whilst keeping an eye on the level in the brake master of course.? Again a perfect clutch, and that is despite the conventional wisdom that says the bleed nipple has to be at the highest point in the cylinder - which it isn't with reverse filling/bleeding.? And when that hasn't worked, both for myself and others, then wedging down overnight has.? Even though almost all the run is vertical it seems that having the front higher than the rear makes the difference. PaulH. On 09/08/2023 13:11, Robert's New iPad wrote: > Everyone who has ever bled a clutch on MGA or MGB has a sad tale of > difficulty to relate. Those who have owned TDs with rods&lever or the > cable remember how easy that job of adjustment was. > Everyone has a method that eventually worked. ?Mine is to fill as I > assume they did at the factory?figure out the quantity of fluid in the > entire system, then push that amount in at the clutch with a syringe > until MC fills. ?The thought is that pushing up from the bottom will > take any bubbles along with the fluid to the top. > Worked for me. Hope it works for you. > Bob > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Wed Aug 9 09:39:24 2023 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2023 08:39:24 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] mga clutch bleeding In-Reply-To: <83D54398-33ED-4644-9D0F-F2F00D9A54CC@gmail.com> References: <0439b35b19984891a62db0488aec7310@ranteer.com> <83D54398-33ED-4644-9D0F-F2F00D9A54CC@gmail.com> Message-ID: <70CAA204-CB89-46A5-8273-BADD6E13AEA0@sonic.net> Yeah, for some reason this seemingly simple task is often inexplicably difficult. One factor is that the reservoir capacity is so tiny that it is very easy to inadvertently empty it and allow air into the system, which basically puts you back to square one. It?s like you have to top it off after every stroke. Bob?s method sounds helpful in that regard. -- Max Heim '66 MGB > On Aug 9, 2023, at 5:11 AM, Robert's New iPad wrote: > > Everyone who has ever bled a clutch on MGA or MGB has a sad tale of difficulty to relate. Those who have owned TDs with rods&lever or the cable remember how easy that job of adjustment was. > Everyone has a method that eventually worked. Mine is to fill as I assume they did at the factory?figure out the quantity of fluid in the entire system, then push that amount in at the clutch with a syringe until MC fills. The thought is that pushing up from the bottom will take any bubbles along with the fluid to the top. > Worked for me. Hope it works for you. > Bob > > > On Aug 8, 2023, at 3:44 PM, dave northrup > wrote: > >> Car is a 58 mga. Bled the brakes just fine but I can?t get action out of the clutch. >> >> Have speedbleeder on it but that?s not working for me. >> >> Several times the wife pumped the clutch about 10 times with the bleed valve closed, then I would open it and pretty much nothing came out. >> >> If I leave the valve open and pump fluid does come out. >> >> The master is new. I think the slave is new as well. I recognize either one could be an out of box failure. >> >> I?ve gone through mgaguru but I don?t see the answer I need. >> >> So frustrated I?ve thought about replace both the master and slave, but I?m not convinced that?s the problem. >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From difejo1 at gmail.com Wed Aug 9 20:40:42 2023 From: difejo1 at gmail.com (John DiFede) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2023 22:40:42 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB oil pan removal Message-ID: Hello all. I?ve been lurking on the list and haven?t posted in ages. I want to remove the oil pan on my 1973 MGB to replace the gasket. The front pan bolts are hidden behind the crossmember. Does anyone have advice for removing these bolts? Thanks John DiFede Sent from my iPhone From paulbhunt73 at gmail.com Thu Aug 10 01:56:55 2023 From: paulbhunt73 at gmail.com (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2023 08:56:55 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] mga 1500 with early 5 main mgb engine In-Reply-To: References: <8ba46f6ebee14b168b5e753f84b72499@ranteer.com> <983CC3D7-127F-4FD9-97E0-7533897C6FFD@sonic.net> <3411356e650041da97b2be3a4baba303@ranteer.com> <09c19114-5cd1-6b45-bd0b-8f55948fd1e7@gmail.com> Message-ID: <6dfdface-9c14-8810-f89a-314de200488d@gmail.com> It can be surprising how often you can be absolutely positive about something, then find it wasn't as you expected.? Nothing like proving it. There will be no harm swapping the pickup connections at the tach, and it's worth trying as someone may have swapped them internally for some reason. Swapping the 12v and earth is a little more tricky.? With electronics reverse connection can sometimes blow the semi-conductors, so it's a risk. PaulH. On 09/08/2023 17:00, dave northrup wrote: > > There is only 1 wire going to the coil. That wire comes directly from > the tach; I wired that myself as well as the one wire going from the > fusebox to the tach.? So I can just about guarantee that if I break > that circuit the engine won?t run.? I have not yet tried ?rapping? the > tach. > > I was not certain of your previous answer ? can I do any harm by > swapping the connections on the tach?? Of course, if its not working > anyway . . . > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulbhunt73 at gmail.com Thu Aug 10 04:37:10 2023 From: paulbhunt73 at gmail.com (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2023 11:37:10 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGB oil pan removal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I've not had to do it on my 4-cylinder but have on the V8 which is similar.? I used a ring spanner from the front - ratchet ring ideally.? If you can lift the engine that should give more room, as would disconnecting at least the left-hand engine mount.? I think I raised my V8 putting a block of wood largely covering the sump pan and jacking under that. PaulH. On 10/08/2023 03:40, John DiFede wrote: > Hello all. I?ve been lurking on the list and haven?t posted in ages. > I want to remove the oil pan on my 1973 MGB to replace the gasket. The front pan bolts are hidden behind the crossmember. Does anyone have advice for removing these bolts? > Thanks > John DiFede > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paulbhunt73 at gmail.com From mgbobh at gmail.com Thu Aug 10 06:30:36 2023 From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad) Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2023 08:30:36 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB oil pan removal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Using a 2x4 pad or equivalent, gently jack under front of the engine sump. You need only 1/8? or so of lift in order to slip a wrench into the cramped space, then a bit more for the fasteners to come out. Anticipate a layer of oily dirt in this space. Were I doing this again, I would first wash this area with Dawn dish liquid. It is sold in a trigger bottle. I have recently learned of this, though it?s not a new product, and found it to be helpful for pre-wrenching cleanup. Bob > On Aug 9, 2023, at 10:40 PM, John DiFede wrote: > > Hello all. I?ve been lurking on the list and haven?t posted in ages. > I want to remove the oil pan on my 1973 MGB to replace the gasket. The front pan bolts are hidden behind the crossmember. Does anyone have advice for removing these bolts? > Thanks > John DiFede > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com From barneymg at mgaguru.com Thu Aug 10 06:40:44 2023 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2023 07:40:44 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGB oil pan removal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Yes, it is doable. See here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/of106.htm At 09:40 PM 8/9/2023, John DiFede wrote: >Hello all. I've been lurking on the list and haven't posted in >ages. I want to remove the oil pan on my 1973 MGB to replace the >gasket. The front pan bolts are hidden behind the >crossmember. Does anyone have advice for removing these bolts? >Thanks John DiFede ' >.... -- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From difejo1 at gmail.com Thu Aug 10 07:27:49 2023 From: difejo1 at gmail.com (John DiFede) Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2023 09:27:49 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB oil pan removal In-Reply-To: <64d4dadc.170a0220.b990e.4c64SMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> References: <64d4dadc.170a0220.b990e.4c64SMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ddarby at centurytel.net Thu Aug 10 08:16:56 2023 From: ddarby at centurytel.net (David F. Darby) Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2023 09:16:56 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGB oil pan removal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <007a01d9cb95$5204c430$f60e4c90$@centurytel.net> After I removed mine for the first time, I cut slots across the front five bolt heads with a hacksaw. Then, when reinstalling them, one can speed them on and cinch them up with a minimum of grief, as Paul says. Next time they need to come off, you can loosen them with a spanner and remove fairly quickly with a long, thin screwdriver. YMMY. David > -----Original Message----- > From: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Hunt > Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2023 5:37 AM > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB oil pan removal > > I've not had to do it on my 4-cylinder but have on the V8 which is similar. I > used a ring spanner from the front - ratchet ring ideally. If you can lift the > engine that should give more room, as would disconnecting at least the left- > hand engine mount. I think I raised my > V8 putting a block of wood largely covering the sump pan and jacking under > that. > > PaulH. > > On 10/08/2023 03:40, John DiFede wrote: > > Hello all. I?ve been lurking on the list and haven?t posted in ages. > > I want to remove the oil pan on my 1973 MGB to replace the gasket. The > front pan bolts are hidden behind the crossmember. Does anyone have > advice for removing these bolts? > > Thanks > > John DiFede > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > > $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs > > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paulbhunt73 at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ddarby at centurytel.net From barneymg at mgaguru.com Thu Aug 10 10:48:04 2023 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2023 11:48:04 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGB oil pan removal In-Reply-To: References: <64d4dadc.170a0220.b990e.4c64SMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> Message-ID: John, That doesn't work. The enginre mount brackets are attached with three screws, two of those runinng throuigh tehe engine front plate. See here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/books/spl/spl_1600_a1.pdf Go to page 23 of 24 Also see here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/parts/AHH/AHH5065.htm http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/parts/AHH/AHH5066.htm To disconnect engine mounts, you likely need to remove the front carburetor and the generator, then remove four bolts from the bottom of each mount, leaving the rubber blocks attached to engine brackets. That's a tough sell just to remove the sump. Barney At 08:27 AM 8/10/2023, John DiFede wrote: >Thank you all for the advice. I have all the tools you suggested >and I have the advantage of working under a lift. I see the engine >mounts are attached to the block with one bolt on each side. Looks >like I can remove these bolts and slightly raise the engine for more >working room. I plan to use a smear of silicone sealer along with >the gasket. >John DiFede >Hopewell Junction, NY >>On Aug 10, 2023, at 8:41 AM, Barney Gaylord wrote: >> >>es, it is doable. See here: >>http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/of106.htm >>At 09:40 PM 8/9/2023, John DiFede wrote: >>>Hello all. I've been lurking on the list and haven't posted in >>>ages. I want to remove the oil pan on my 1973 MGB to replace the >>>gasket. The front pan bolts are hidden behind the >>>crossmember. Does anyone have advice for removing these bolts? >>>Thanks John DiFede ' >>>.... -- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulbhunt73 at gmail.com Fri Aug 11 01:27:44 2023 From: paulbhunt73 at gmail.com (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2023 08:27:44 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGB oil pan removal In-Reply-To: References: <64d4dadc.170a0220.b990e.4c64SMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <38613d52-2915-1ff1-feb2-b8a4365ed45e@gmail.com> Rubber bumper MGBs have one mount stud and a nut through the chassis mount each side, chrome bumper have four nuts and bolts. Having said that they are easier to deal with than the RB especially on the drivers side where the rack shaft covers the nut. Make sure you replace any shims, the engine earth strap and carb overflow tubes correctly. PaulH. On 10/08/2023 14:27, John DiFede wrote: > Thank you all for the advice. ? I have all the tools you suggested and > I have the advantage of working under a lift. ? I see the engine > mounts are attached to the block with one bolt on each side. ... From difejo1 at gmail.com Fri Aug 11 07:06:02 2023 From: difejo1 at gmail.com (John DiFede) Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2023 09:06:02 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB oil pan removal In-Reply-To: <38613d52-2915-1ff1-feb2-b8a4365ed45e@gmail.com> References: <38613d52-2915-1ff1-feb2-b8a4365ed45e@gmail.com> Message-ID: <910B0225-BD5D-4C7F-A8B4-8DF540FFF896@gmail.com> Guys, I decided not to remove my oil pan after seeing it was more difficult than I had thought. My engine looks to be leaking from the junction of the oil pan and timing cover. I?m not certain it was the pan gasket. I ended up tightening all the lower bolts for the timing cover and front pan. I sprayed degreaser and cleaned the area. I?ll continue to watch and see if I can find the leak source. Thanks again for all your help. John DiFede Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 11, 2023, at 6:16 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > > ?Rubber bumper MGBs have one mount stud and a nut through the chassis mount each side, chrome bumper have four nuts and bolts. Having said that they are easier to deal with than the RB especially on the drivers side where the rack shaft covers the nut. > > Make sure you replace any shims, the engine earth strap and carb overflow tubes correctly. > > PaulH. > >> On 10/08/2023 14:27, John DiFede wrote: >> Thank you all for the advice. I have all the tools you suggested and I have the advantage of working under a lift. I see the engine mounts are attached to the block with one bolt on each side. ... > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/difejo1 at gmail.com From paulbhunt73 at gmail.com Fri Aug 11 07:53:39 2023 From: paulbhunt73 at gmail.com (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2023 14:53:39 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGB oil pan removal In-Reply-To: <910B0225-BD5D-4C7F-A8B4-8DF540FFF896@gmail.com> References: <38613d52-2915-1ff1-feb2-b8a4365ed45e@gmail.com> <910B0225-BD5D-4C7F-A8B4-8DF540FFF896@gmail.com> Message-ID: Can also be the crank pulley seal.? Timing cover 1/4" and sump screws are only 6 ft lb, TC 5/16" screws are 14 ft lb.? It's easy to distort the flanges making them bulge up between the screws because of the cork gasket, tightening further makes it worse. I've seen a reinforcing strip for both. PaulH. On 11/08/2023 14:06, John DiFede wrote: > Guys, I decided not to remove my oil pan after seeing it was more difficult than I had thought. My engine looks to be leaking from the junction of the oil pan and timing cover. I?m not certain it was the pan gasket. I ended up tightening all the lower bolts for the timing cover and front pan. I sprayed degreaser and cleaned the area. I?ll continue to watch and see if I can find the leak source. > Thanks again for all your help. > John DiFede > > Sent from my iPhone > From dave at ranteer.com Tue Aug 15 16:15:58 2023 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup) Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2023 22:15:58 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] Brown & Gammons LTD Message-ID: <1c2c100887764096a6af6872d693ffe6@ranteer.com> Just want everyone to know that this British company in Baldock Hertfordshire sells pure unadulterated crap. DO NOT patronize these people; you will regret it -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mgbobh at gmail.com Tue Aug 15 16:50:18 2023 From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad) Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2023 18:50:18 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Brown & Gammons LTD In-Reply-To: <1c2c100887764096a6af6872d693ffe6@ranteer.com> References: <1c2c100887764096a6af6872d693ffe6@ranteer.com> Message-ID: Alas, it?s not just B&G supplying parts that do not fit or do not do the job. Today, by chance, I was involved in a clutch replacement in 1976 MGB. The new throw-out bearing came with two types of retainers, one the usual sort, the other a spring-thing. Didn?t matter initially, as the T/O bearing centre casting was too large diameter to fit into the T/O lever arms. Fortunately, we had a lathe in the shop and a few minutes later had cut .015 off the casting. The original-type retainer clips then fit and job is done. But the owner who does not happen to have a lathe handy would be out of luck, and if the job were being done by a shop, another 30-45 minutes of shop time for the job. Bob > On Aug 15, 2023, at 6:15 PM, dave northrup wrote: > > Just want everyone to know that this British company in Baldock Hertfordshire sells pure unadulterated crap. > > DO NOT patronize these people; you will regret it > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Tue Aug 15 18:47:01 2023 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup) Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2023 00:47:01 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] MGA overriders Message-ID: <3331410712f5407e8bc8f8ae698dec71@ranteer.com> Before I dump them in recycle, is there anything constructive I can do with "good enough for a driver" overriders? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulbhunt73 at gmail.com Wed Aug 16 01:37:52 2023 From: paulbhunt73 at gmail.com (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2023 08:37:52 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Brown & Gammons LTD In-Reply-To: <1c2c100887764096a6af6872d693ffe6@ranteer.com> References: <1c2c100887764096a6af6872d693ffe6@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <35d24cf6-1588-9fbe-89a1-43e822520c19@gmail.com> Which parts have you had problems with?? They are one of the four main suppliers I use and I can't guarantee not to have problems with any of them. Moss has been the cause of my problems lately.? A new headlight switch didn't work out of the box and had to be opened? up and the contacts cleaned.? Headlight sub-harnesses had pressed bullets instead of the usual brass and were way too small for the standard Lucar connectors.? And even if they had been the right diameter they were too long with an uninsulated portion sticking out the back 1/4" so at risk of shorting unless sleeved with heat-shrink. Some years ago king-pin shims stamped with different numbers but all the same thickness. 'Lucas' indicator flasher units from a variety of sources with box and can all stamped with the correct information but internally they are hazard flashers which work very differently and have two safety implications when used as indicators. A recent case on the MGOC fora where a chap in America had bought new stub-axles and wheel bearings from the club where the bearings didn't fit the axles because the latter were over-size. Even when you do get things that work 'out of the box, they don't last anywhere near as long as the originals e.g. wheel cylinders and clutch slaves only lasting a few k before they either leak, or seize in the case of the wheel cylinders. Hydraulic brake light switches that start failing after just? few months.? After a 'discussion' the MGOC did send a replacement that I use with a relay.? Present stock has a very simple pressure contact instead of the original sliding contact that is self-cleaning, arcing from the high inrush current of filament bulbs occurs from day one and very soon they start going high-resistance needing more and more pressure from the pedal before the lights come on. What's important is how they respond to complaints - if you do complain, many users just seem to moan on fora.? There is another supplier here who I have had problems with over and over again, they come out very high in the annual MGOC survey being popular because of price, but when they supplied 'stainless' steel wheel nuts that rusted over one winter with no wet or salt running I had to threaten them with court action before they would replace them.? Needless to say I don't touch them with a barge pole now. There are only a limited number of manufacturers, and suppliers probably shop around for the cheapest just like users seem to do. Even when a supplier offers an 'OE' a cheaper 'aftermarket' the more expensive OE aren't as good as they should be. PaulH. On 15/08/2023 23:15, dave northrup wrote: > > Just want everyone to know that this British company in Baldock > Hertfordshire sells pure unadulterated crap. > > DO NOT patronize these people; you will regret it > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paulbhunt73 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Wed Aug 16 09:40:03 2023 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup) Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2023 15:40:03 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] Brown & Gammons LTD In-Reply-To: <35d24cf6-1588-9fbe-89a1-43e822520c19@gmail.com> References: <1c2c100887764096a6af6872d693ffe6@ranteer.com> <35d24cf6-1588-9fbe-89a1-43e822520c19@gmail.com> Message-ID: <54e2ac0390e84c64b86b7a0bb259d92f@ranteer.com> They sent me some seat foams that are so thin and worthless that Walmart would be too embarrassed to stock. NO RETURNS!!!!! And btw Moss typically carries crap. They should be the vendor of last resort. For MGA parts I like mgaparts.com, aka Scarborough Faire. From: Mgs On Behalf Of Paul Hunt Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2023 2:38 AM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brown & Gammons LTD Which parts have you had problems with? They are one of the four main suppliers I use and I can't guarantee not to have problems with any of them. Moss has been the cause of my problems lately. A new headlight switch didn't work out of the box and had to be opened up and the contacts cleaned. Headlight sub-harnesses had pressed bullets instead of the usual brass and were way too small for the standard Lucar connectors. And even if they had been the right diameter they were too long with an uninsulated portion sticking out the back 1/4" so at risk of shorting unless sleeved with heat-shrink. Some years ago king-pin shims stamped with different numbers but all the same thickness. 'Lucas' indicator flasher units from a variety of sources with box and can all stamped with the correct information but internally they are hazard flashers which work very differently and have two safety implications when used as indicators. A recent case on the MGOC fora where a chap in America had bought new stub-axles and wheel bearings from the club where the bearings didn't fit the axles because the latter were over-size. Even when you do get things that work 'out of the box, they don't last anywhere near as long as the originals e.g. wheel cylinders and clutch slaves only lasting a few k before they either leak, or seize in the case of the wheel cylinders. Hydraulic brake light switches that start failing after just few months. After a 'discussion' the MGOC did send a replacement that I use with a relay. Present stock has a very simple pressure contact instead of the original sliding contact that is self-cleaning, arcing from the high inrush current of filament bulbs occurs from day one and very soon they start going high-resistance needing more and more pressure from the pedal before the lights come on. What's important is how they respond to complaints - if you do complain, many users just seem to moan on fora. There is another supplier here who I have had problems with over and over again, they come out very high in the annual MGOC survey being popular because of price, but when they supplied 'stainless' steel wheel nuts that rusted over one winter with no wet or salt running I had to threaten them with court action before they would replace them. Needless to say I don't touch them with a barge pole now. There are only a limited number of manufacturers, and suppliers probably shop around for the cheapest just like users seem to do. Even when a supplier offers an 'OE' a cheaper 'aftermarket' the more expensive OE aren't as good as they should be. PaulH. On 15/08/2023 23:15, dave northrup wrote: Just want everyone to know that this British company in Baldock Hertfordshire sells pure unadulterated crap. DO NOT patronize these people; you will regret it _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paulbhunt73 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulbhunt73 at gmail.com Thu Aug 17 01:46:46 2023 From: paulbhunt73 at gmail.com (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2023 08:46:46 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Brown & Gammons LTD In-Reply-To: <54e2ac0390e84c64b86b7a0bb259d92f@ranteer.com> References: <1c2c100887764096a6af6872d693ffe6@ranteer.com> <35d24cf6-1588-9fbe-89a1-43e822520c19@gmail.com> <54e2ac0390e84c64b86b7a0bb259d92f@ranteer.com> Message-ID: Keep it quiet or everyone will want one (or two)!? The usual problem in the MGB world - for very many years - has been seat foams too fat with people slicing an inch off the bottom or drilling holes through to soften it.? I've been in a GT with them and my head was canted over to clear the sunroof surround - very uncomfortable. PaulH. On 16/08/2023 16:40, dave northrup wrote: > > They sent me some seat foams that are so thin and worthless that > Walmart would be too embarrassed to stock.? NO RETURNS!!!!! > > And btw Moss typically carries crap.? They should be the vendor of > last resort. > > For MGA parts I like mgaparts.com, aka Scarborough Faire. > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From barroban at outlook.com Thu Aug 17 08:19:48 2023 From: barroban at outlook.com (Barrie Robinson) Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2023 10:19:48 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Brown & Gammons LTD In-Reply-To: References: <1c2c100887764096a6af6872d693ffe6@ranteer.com> <35d24cf6-1588-9fbe-89a1-43e822520c19@gmail.com> <54e2ac0390e84c64b86b7a0bb259d92f@ranteer.com> Message-ID: Hello folks, When I built, from scratch, my MGB GT V8 (because none were available in Canada) I used an 'upholstery' bloke.? He put in memory foam for the seats and all has been well since then (over 10 years) For bums of distinction one must use top quality foam !!! Barrie R On 8/17/2023 3:46 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > > Keep it quiet or everyone will want one (or two)!? The usual problem > in the MGB world - for very many years - has been seat foams too fat > with people slicing an inch off the bottom or drilling holes through > to soften it.? I've been in a GT with them and my head was canted over > to clear the sunroof surround - very uncomfortable. > > PaulH. > > On 16/08/2023 16:40, dave northrup wrote: >> >> They sent me some seat foams that are so thin and worthless that >> Walmart would be too embarrassed to stock.? NO RETURNS!!!!! >> >> And btw Moss typically carries crap. They should be the vendor of >> last resort. >> >> For MGA parts I like mgaparts.com, aka Scarborough Faire. >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barroban at outlook.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Thu Aug 17 09:41:32 2023 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2023 08:41:32 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Brown & Gammons LTD In-Reply-To: References: <1c2c100887764096a6af6872d693ffe6@ranteer.com> <35d24cf6-1588-9fbe-89a1-43e822520c19@gmail.com> <54e2ac0390e84c64b86b7a0bb259d92f@ranteer.com> Message-ID: That?s not a joke. I had to cut my Moss bottom foam at a diagonal, starting with 2 inches at the back edge, leaving it thicker at the front for thigh support. I still sit taller than in my old seats. -- Max Heim 1966 MGB 1967 Barracuda > On Aug 17, 2023, at 12:46 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > > Keep it quiet or everyone will want one (or two)! The usual problem in the MGB world - for very many years - has been seat foams too fat with people slicing an inch off the bottom or drilling holes through to soften it. I've been in a GT with them and my head was canted over to clear the sunroof surround - very uncomfortable. > > PaulH. > > On 16/08/2023 16:40, dave northrup wrote: >> They sent me some seat foams that are so thin and worthless that Walmart would be too embarrassed to stock. NO RETURNS!!!!! >> >> And btw Moss typically carries crap. They should be the vendor of last resort. >> >> For MGA parts I like mgaparts.com, aka Scarborough Faire. >> >> > _______________________________________________ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From barroban at outlook.com Tue Aug 22 09:10:50 2023 From: barroban at outlook.com (Barrie Robinson) Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2023 11:10:50 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Brown & Gammons LTD In-Reply-To: References: <1c2c100887764096a6af6872d693ffe6@ranteer.com> <35d24cf6-1588-9fbe-89a1-43e822520c19@gmail.com> <54e2ac0390e84c64b86b7a0bb259d92f@ranteer.com> Message-ID: Hello folks, When I built, from scratch, my MGB GT V8 (because none were available in Canada) I used an 'upholstery' bloke.? He put in memory foam for the seats and all has been well since then (10 years) For bums of distinction one must use top quality foam !!! Barrie R On 8/17/2023 3:46 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > > Keep it quiet or everyone will want one (or two)!? The usual problem > in the MGB world - for very many years - has been seat foams too fat > with people slicing an inch off the bottom or drilling holes through > to soften it.? I've been in a GT with them and my head was canted over > to clear the sunroof surround - very uncomfortable. > > PaulH. > > On 16/08/2023 16:40, dave northrup wrote: >> >> They sent me some seat foams that are so thin and worthless that >> Walmart would be too embarrassed to stock.? NO RETURNS!!!!! >> >> And btw Moss typically carries crap. They should be the vendor of >> last resort. >> >> For MGA parts I like mgaparts.com, aka Scarborough Faire. >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barroban at outlook.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From barroban at outlook.com Tue Aug 22 11:28:56 2023 From: barroban at outlook.com (Barrie Robinson) Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2023 13:28:56 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Tyre for MGB GT V8 Message-ID: What size tyre(tire) do I need for my MGB GT V8??? I do not do high speeds over 100km/hr.?? I like Pirellis as I used to get them free (oh those were the days!).?? I am in Ontario, Canada. Cheers Barrie From lrc at red4est.com Tue Aug 22 13:12:25 2023 From: lrc at red4est.com (lrc at red4est.com) Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2023 12:12:25 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Tyre for MGB GT V8 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <783E7513-41C5-46EE-BE3B-FFD2A41DF869@red4est.com> I would go with 185-60-14 On August 22, 2023 10:28:56 AM PDT, Barrie Robinson wrote: >What size tyre(tire) do I need for my MGB GT V8??? I do not do high speeds over 100km/hr.?? I like Pirellis as I used to get them free (oh those were the days!).?? I am in Ontario, Canada. > >Cheers >Barrie > >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 > >Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lrc at red4est.com > -- Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Tue Aug 22 15:25:45 2023 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2023 14:25:45 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Tyre for MGB GT V8 In-Reply-To: <783E7513-41C5-46EE-BE3B-FFD2A41DF869@red4est.com> References: <783E7513-41C5-46EE-BE3B-FFD2A41DF869@red4est.com> Message-ID: <4331E279-5545-4389-A832-8CBEA7736116@sonic.net> He may have 15? wheels ? he didn?t tell us that, but that is what I would expect. -- Max Heim '66 MGB > On Aug 22, 2023, at 12:12 PM, lrc at red4est.com wrote: > > I would go with 185-60-14 > > > On August 22, 2023 10:28:56 AM PDT, Barrie Robinson > wrote: > What size tyre(tire) do I need for my MGB GT V8? I do not do high speeds over 100km/hr. I like Pirellis as I used to get them free (oh those were the days!). I am in Ontario, Canada. > > Cheers > Barrie > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lrc at red4est.com > > -- > Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity. > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net -- Max Heim mvheim at sonic.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lrc at red4est.com Tue Aug 22 16:06:11 2023 From: lrc at red4est.com (lrc at red4est.com) Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2023 15:06:11 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Tyre for MGB GT V8 In-Reply-To: <783E7513-41C5-46EE-BE3B-FFD2A41DF869@red4est.com> References: <783E7513-41C5-46EE-BE3B-FFD2A41DF869@red4est.com> Message-ID: <105BC6D8-AC0D-412F-B908-C59F6E93B5A9@red4est.com> For track use, my plan is 205-50-15, when I don't care so much about handling, 185 is fine and easier to fit under the fenders. I've been happy with Continental extreme contact tires on both my Miata and my daily driver. I think they come in 195-xx-15. The DWS are good in both wet and dry On August 22, 2023 12:12:25 PM PDT, lrc at red4est.com wrote: >I would go with 185-60-14 > >On August 22, 2023 10:28:56 AM PDT, Barrie Robinson wrote: >>What size tyre(tire) do I need for my MGB GT V8??? I do not do high speeds over 100km/hr.?? I like Pirellis as I used to get them free (oh those were the days!).?? I am in Ontario, Canada. >> >>Cheers >>Barrie >> >>_______________________________________________ >> >>Mgs at autox.team.net >>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >> >>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lrc at red4est.com >> > >-- >Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity. -- Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wkilleffer at epbfi.com Wed Aug 30 10:30:15 2023 From: wkilleffer at epbfi.com (wkilleffer at epbfi.com) Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2023 12:30:15 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Mgs] Moss Motors clutch master cylinder brake fluid Message-ID: <1328988851.81616707.1693413015193.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com> Hello everyone, I'm about to replace the clutch hydraulics on my 1974 MGB. I did this one other time a few years ago and used a master cylinder from a company in Knoxville, TN. One problem I had with it was that it was hard to get its cap off without first removing the cap on the brake master cylinder. The new cylinder from Moss appears that it won't have that issue. It's this one under 180-697: [ https://mossmotors.com/180-697-clutch-master-cylinder-replacement-3-4-bore | https://mossmotors.com/180-697-clutch-master-cylinder-replacement-3-4-bore ] The problem is that there's no label on the cylinder stating whether or not it's DOT 3 compliant. The brake master I installed ( [ https://mossmotors.com/180-767-brake-master-cylinder-aftermarket | https://mossmotors.com/180-767-brake-master-cylinder-aftermarket) ] is an aftermarket replacement from Moss, and it's labeled as DOT 3 compliant. I'm under the impression that most parts sold in the US are supposed to be that way, and have also been told that these new cylinders use a synthetic rubber that the old original cylinders didn't have, so the fluid is less mission critical and shouldn't cause the rubber parts to deteriorate. There's nothing on the Moss website saying one way or the other. Any thoughts? Thank you, -William Killeffer 1974 MGB 1996 Jeep Cherokee Country 2015 Chevrolet Sonic hatchback 1.8 5-speed -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Wed Aug 30 11:59:57 2023 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2023 10:59:57 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Moss Motors clutch master cylinder brake fluid In-Reply-To: <1328988851.81616707.1693413015193.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com> References: <1328988851.81616707.1693413015193.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com> Message-ID: That looks like the one I installed, and it?s fine. Although I use DOT 4 Castrol LMA fluid, exclusively. (DOT 4 has a higher boiling point than DOT 3, but is otherwise compatible. DOT 5 is the incompatible silicone fluid). -- Max Heim '66 MGB > On Aug 30, 2023, at 9:30 AM, wkilleffer at epbfi.com wrote: > > Hello everyone, > > I'm about to replace the clutch hydraulics on my 1974 MGB. I did this one other time a few years ago and used a master cylinder from a company in Knoxville, TN. One problem I had with it was that it was hard to get its cap off without first removing the cap on the brake master cylinder. The new cylinder from Moss appears that it won't have that issue. It's this one under 180-697: https://mossmotors.com/180-697-clutch-master-cylinder-replacement-3-4-bore > > The problem is that there's no label on the cylinder stating whether or not it's DOT 3 compliant. The brake master I installed (https://mossmotors.com/180-767-brake-master-cylinder-aftermarket) is an aftermarket replacement from Moss, and it's labeled as DOT 3 compliant. I'm under the impression that most parts sold in the US are supposed to be that way, and have also been told that these new cylinders use a synthetic rubber that the old original cylinders didn't have, so the fluid is less mission critical and shouldn't cause the rubber parts to deteriorate. > > There's nothing on the Moss website saying one way or the other. Any thoughts? > > Thank you, > -William Killeffer > 1974 MGB > 1996 Jeep Cherokee Country > 2015 Chevrolet Sonic hatchback 1.8 5-speed > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mgbobh at gmail.com Wed Aug 30 16:07:20 2023 From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad) Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2023 18:07:20 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Moss Motors clutch master cylinder brake fluid In-Reply-To: <1328988851.81616707.1693413015193.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com> References: <1328988851.81616707.1693413015193.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com> Message-ID: These work OK. I have one. There is not any extra fluid capacity in them, according to a recent article in MG Driver, so bleeding the line absolutely bubble-free is necessary. They also fit several GM trucks. Bob > On Aug 30, 2023, at 12:30 PM, wkilleffer at epbfi.com wrote: > > Hello everyone, > > I'm about to replace the clutch hydraulics on my 1974 MGB. I did this one other time a few years ago and used a master cylinder from a company in Knoxville, TN. One problem I had with it was that it was hard to get its cap off without first removing the cap on the brake master cylinder. The new cylinder from Moss appears that it won't have that issue. It's this one under 180-697: https://mossmotors.com/180-697-clutch-master-cylinder-replacement-3-4-bore > > The problem is that there's no label on the cylinder stating whether or not it's DOT 3 compliant. The brake master I installed (https://mossmotors.com/180-767-brake-master-cylinder-aftermarket) is an aftermarket replacement from Moss, and it's labeled as DOT 3 compliant. I'm under the impression that most parts sold in the US are supposed to be that way, and have also been told that these new cylinders use a synthetic rubber that the old original cylinders didn't have, so the fluid is less mission critical and shouldn't cause the rubber parts to deteriorate. > > There's nothing on the Moss website saying one way or the other. Any thoughts? > > Thank you, > -William Killeffer > 1974 MGB > 1996 Jeep Cherokee Country > 2015 Chevrolet Sonic hatchback 1.8 5-speed > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Thu Aug 31 01:46:53 2023 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (h.duinhoven at planet.nl) Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2023 09:46:53 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Moss Motors clutch master cylinder brake fluid In-Reply-To: References: <1328988851.81616707.1693413015193.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com> Message-ID: <001901d9dbdf$4efd8dd0$ecf8a970$@planet.nl> >>> DOT 5 is the incompatible silicone fluid? I have used DOT 5 all the years I have had my BGT running from 2000 ? 2023. It is incompatible with lower DOT values, but if the system is flushed well before filling with DOT 5(.1), it works well. Cheers, Hans No longer BGT ? Van: Mgs Namens Max Heim Verzonden: woensdag 30 augustus 2023 20:00 Aan: mglist Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Moss Motors clutch master cylinder brake fluid That looks like the one I installed, and it?s fine. Although I use DOT 4 Castrol LMA fluid, exclusively. (DOT 4 has a higher boiling point than DOT 3, but is otherwise compatible. DOT 5 is the incompatible silicone fluid). -- Max Heim '66 MGB On Aug 30, 2023, at 9:30 AM, wkilleffer at epbfi.com wrote: Hello everyone, I'm about to replace the clutch hydraulics on my 1974 MGB. I did this one other time a few years ago and used a master cylinder from a company in Knoxville, TN. One problem I had with it was that it was hard to get its cap off without first removing the cap on the brake master cylinder. The new cylinder from Moss appears that it won't have that issue. It's this one under 180-697: https://mossmotors.com/180-697-clutch-master-cylinder-replacement-3-4-bore The problem is that there's no label on the cylinder stating whether or not it's DOT 3 compliant. The brake master I installed (https://mossmotors.com/180-767-brake-master-cylinder-aftermarket) is an aftermarket replacement from Moss, and it's labeled as DOT 3 compliant. I'm under the impression that most parts sold in the US are supposed to be that way, and have also been told that these new cylinders use a synthetic rubber that the old original cylinders didn't have, so the fluid is less mission critical and shouldn't cause the rubber parts to deteriorate. There's nothing on the Moss website saying one way or the other. Any thoughts? Thank you, -William Killeffer 1974 MGB 1996 Jeep Cherokee Country 2015 Chevrolet Sonic hatchback 1.8 5-speed _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulbhunt73 at gmail.com Thu Aug 31 02:00:05 2023 From: paulbhunt73 at gmail.com (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2023 09:00:05 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Moss Motors clutch master cylinder brake fluid In-Reply-To: <333327821.82040332.1693418920077.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com> References: <1328988851.81616707.1693413015193.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com> <333327821.82040332.1693418920077.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com> Message-ID: <8cef77b0-3554-3f5a-1ce5-7a56bd88ba54@gmail.com> DOT4 has a higher boiling point than DOT3, DOT5.1 has a higher boiling point than DOT4 about the same as DOT5 and LMA.? It's said that there is more involved than just flushing when you switch between DOT5 and any of the others, it can sludge if any remains and they mix.? DOT5 doesn't harm paint like the other three do, but instead of absorbing water it absorbs air and can make for a spongy pedal.? The same amount of water gets into a DOT5 system as any of the others because the cap is vented and draws in what could be moisture-laden air as the system cools down.? But instead of being absorbed and so removed when you replace the fluid in DOT3/4/5.1 systems it can remain in the system and if it gets to the calipers can boil.? I remember reading a piece from the American military some time ago asking the SAE to investigate replacing DOT5 with other fluids without having to replace the complete braking system. PaulH. On 30/08/2023 19:08, wkilleffer at epbfi.com wrote: > For whatever reason, my memory isn't always spot-on, but I'm pretty > sure I was using DOT 3 with the previous clutch hydraulics, so that's > likely to be what I use moving forward. Once I get it disassembled, > I'm going to blow compressed air through the metal line to clear out > any old fluid. Never used DOT 5. Understand it has some good qualities > along with more than a few drawbacks. > > About six months ago, I bled the clutch system til clear fluid ran > out. The fluid that came out at first was black. I didn't think I was > having that much trouble, so after bleeding, I put it all back > together. Now, everything seems to point of it suffering a failure > somewhere along the fluid pathway, so changing all the components will > at least let me know how old everything is because I'll write it down > in the maintenance notebook. > > Thank you, > > -William > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Thu Aug 31 10:22:56 2023 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2023 09:22:56 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Moss Motors clutch master cylinder brake fluid In-Reply-To: <001901d9dbdf$4efd8dd0$ecf8a970$@planet.nl> References: <1328988851.81616707.1693413015193.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com> <001901d9dbdf$4efd8dd0$ecf8a970$@planet.nl> Message-ID: <40E8693B-5CF9-4E7F-B1C5-96F76A8DEAA6@sonic.net> Yes, I just meant it was incompatible with DOT 3 and 4, not that it was somehow incompatible with the master cylinder. -- Max Heim '66 MGB > On Aug 31, 2023, at 12:46 AM, wrote: > > >>> DOT 5 is the incompatible silicone fluid? > I have used DOT 5 all the years I have had my BGT running from 2000 ? 2023. > It is incompatible with lower DOT values, but if the system is flushed well before filling with DOT 5(.1), it works well. > > Cheers, > Hans > No longer BGT ? > > Van: Mgs Namens Max Heim > Verzonden: woensdag 30 augustus 2023 20:00 > Aan: mglist > Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Moss Motors clutch master cylinder brake fluid > > That looks like the one I installed, and it?s fine. Although I use DOT 4 Castrol LMA fluid, exclusively. > > (DOT 4 has a higher boiling point than DOT 3, but is otherwise compatible. DOT 5 is the incompatible silicone fluid). > > -- > Max Heim > '66 MGB > > > >> On Aug 30, 2023, at 9:30 AM, wkilleffer at epbfi.com wrote: >> >> Hello everyone, >> >> I'm about to replace the clutch hydraulics on my 1974 MGB. I did this one other time a few years ago and used a master cylinder from a company in Knoxville, TN. One problem I had with it was that it was hard to get its cap off without first removing the cap on the brake master cylinder. The new cylinder from Moss appears that it won't have that issue. It's this one under 180-697: https://mossmotors.com/180-697-clutch-master-cylinder-replacement-3-4-bore >> >> The problem is that there's no label on the cylinder stating whether or not it's DOT 3 compliant. The brake master I installed (https://mossmotors.com/180-767-brake-master-cylinder-aftermarket)? is an aftermarket replacement from Moss, and it's labeled as DOT 3 compliant. I'm under the impression that most parts sold in the US are supposed to be that way, and have also been told that these new cylinders use a synthetic rubber that the old original cylinders didn't have, so the fluid is less mission critical and shouldn't cause the rubber parts to deteriorate. >> >> There's nothing on the Moss website saying one way or the other. Any thoughts? >> >> Thank you, >> -William Killeffer >> 1974 MGB >> 1996 Jeep Cherokee Country >> 2015 Chevrolet Sonic hatchback 1.8 5-speed >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Thu Aug 31 10:28:06 2023 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2023 09:28:06 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Moss Motors clutch master cylinder brake fluid In-Reply-To: <40E8693B-5CF9-4E7F-B1C5-96F76A8DEAA6@sonic.net> References: <1328988851.81616707.1693413015193.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com> <001901d9dbdf$4efd8dd0$ecf8a970$@planet.nl> <40E8693B-5CF9-4E7F-B1C5-96F76A8DEAA6@sonic.net> Message-ID: <7B41829D-B246-4518-A064-E064A4B55189@sonic.net> I see no reason to continue to use the inferior DOT3 as opposed to DOT4, however. It may cost a few pennies less, but that hardly seems a justification, considering how critical the braking system is. Of course, you could argue that the clutch system is not as critical, but it would be worse than splitting hairs to use DOT3 for the clutch and DOT4 in the brakes? you would never keep track of that. -- Max Heim '66 MGB > On Aug 31, 2023, at 9:22 AM, Max Heim wrote: > > Yes, I just meant it was incompatible with DOT 3 and 4, not that it was somehow incompatible with the master cylinder. > > -- > Max Heim > '66 MGB > >> On Aug 31, 2023, at 12:46 AM, > > wrote: >> >> >>> DOT 5 is the incompatible silicone fluid? >> I have used DOT 5 all the years I have had my BGT running from 2000 ? 2023. >> It is incompatible with lower DOT values, but if the system is flushed well before filling with DOT 5(.1), it works well. >> >> Cheers, >> Hans >> No longer BGT ? >> >> Van: Mgs > Namens Max Heim >> Verzonden: woensdag 30 augustus 2023 20:00 >> Aan: mglist > >> Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Moss Motors clutch master cylinder brake fluid >> >> That looks like the one I installed, and it?s fine. Although I use DOT 4 Castrol LMA fluid, exclusively. >> >> (DOT 4 has a higher boiling point than DOT 3, but is otherwise compatible. DOT 5 is the incompatible silicone fluid). >> >> -- >> Max Heim >> '66 MGB >> >> >> >>> On Aug 30, 2023, at 9:30 AM, wkilleffer at epbfi.com wrote: >>> >>> Hello everyone, >>> >>> I'm about to replace the clutch hydraulics on my 1974 MGB. I did this one other time a few years ago and used a master cylinder from a company in Knoxville, TN. One problem I had with it was that it was hard to get its cap off without first removing the cap on the brake master cylinder. The new cylinder from Moss appears that it won't have that issue. It's this one under 180-697: https://mossmotors.com/180-697-clutch-master-cylinder-replacement-3-4-bore >>> >>> The problem is that there's no label on the cylinder stating whether or not it's DOT 3 compliant. The brake master I installed (https://mossmotors.com/180-767-brake-master-cylinder-aftermarket)? is an aftermarket replacement from Moss, and it's labeled as DOT 3 compliant. I'm under the impression that most parts sold in the US are supposed to be that way, and have also been told that these new cylinders use a synthetic rubber that the old original cylinders didn't have, so the fluid is less mission critical and shouldn't cause the rubber parts to deteriorate. >>> >>> There's nothing on the Moss website saying one way or the other. Any thoughts? >>> >>> Thank you, >>> -William Killeffer >>> 1974 MGB >>> 1996 Jeep Cherokee Country >>> 2015 Chevrolet Sonic hatchback 1.8 5-speed >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: