From thgun at comporium.net Sat Oct 2 04:20:14 2021 From: thgun at comporium.net (Thomas Gunderson) Date: Sat, 2 Oct 2021 06:20:14 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Stick shift boot Message-ID: <12B98F0B-3A7C-40DB-863A-1EEDF6897444@comporium.net> I have a rubber boot that has split in on of the folds. My boot has a metal ring at the top of the boot. I got a new boot from a vendor but it did not come with the metal ring. Can I transfer this ring to the new boot? Thanks, Tom Gunderson 1957 MGA Sent from my iPhone X From barneymg at mgaguru.com Sat Oct 2 06:58:49 2021 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Sat, 02 Oct 2021 08:58:49 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Stick shift boot In-Reply-To: <12B98F0B-3A7C-40DB-863A-1EEDF6897444@comporium.net> References: <12B98F0B-3A7C-40DB-863A-1EEDF6897444@comporium.net> Message-ID: Yup, Loosen jam nut, remove shift knob and jam nut Lift off old boot, remove trim ring. Install trim ring on new boot, and install new boot Reinstall lock nut and shift knob. Orient the shift knob as preferred, and tighten the jam nut. Bottom flange of the rubber boot should engage the hole in the tunnel. Carpet should be cover the bottom of the rubber boot. Only the convolutions of the rubber boot should be showing above the carpet. This means you need to lift the center carpet section to install the rubber boot underneath, then put the carper back on top. Front edge of the center carpet should be tucked under rear edge of the front carpet. Rear edge of the center carpet sits on top of the rear carpet. Bottom edges of the center carpet may sit flush with the floor, or if longer then they get tucked under the floor carpet. Mine are longer, tucked under the floor carpet, and I staple the center carpet flanges to the floor boards to be secure. At 06:20 AM 10/2/2021, Thomas Gunderson wrote: >I have a rubber boot that has split in on of the folds. My boot has >a metal ring at the top of the boot. I got a new boot from a vendor >but it did not come with the metal ring. Can I transfer this ring to >the new boot? > >Thanks, >Tom Gunderson >1957 MGA >.... -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From philip.s.jones at comcast.net Sat Oct 2 12:12:29 2021 From: philip.s.jones at comcast.net (philip s jones) Date: Sat, 2 Oct 2021 11:12:29 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Stick shift boot Message-ID: <810B0FBA-CF1A-4D7B-B768-0C8BDC07545B@comcast.net> Hi ya?all! Phil from Seattle here. Just wanted to say that I appreciate this community and the willingness of others to share their experience. Particular call-out to Barney here, and Paul in the UK. XOXO to you all, and hope you are happy and well. Phil From dave at ranteer.com Mon Oct 4 15:05:21 2021 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2021 16:05:21 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Radios Message-ID: <000a01d7b963$8b944590$a2bcd0b0$@ranteer.com> Jon - My friend has an early 60's right hand drive MG 4 door sedan. It has a radio in it, but only the light comes on. no sound, static, or anything. It looks like it?s an Ekco Type 1901. It power unit is separate from the radio head. I?m guessing the speaker connects to the power unit? I don?t think it?s an AM radio. The frequency dial runs from 200-2000. I did happen to find a website that shows it?s a radio that was new in 1961. Only 31 pounds! http://antique-autoradio-madness.org/Ecko/Ekco-1960_1.htm did the UK have a different set of bandwidths than the US? From dave at ranteer.com Mon Oct 4 15:11:14 2021 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2021 16:11:14 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Radios In-Reply-To: <000a01d7b963$8b944590$a2bcd0b0$@ranteer.com> References: <000a01d7b963$8b944590$a2bcd0b0$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <000b01d7b964$5dbfd480$193f7d80$@ranteer.com> (Oops. Should not have had someones name on it) My friend has an early 60's right hand drive MG 4 door sedan. It has a radio in it, but only the light comes on. no sound, static, or anything. It looks like it?s an Ekco Type 1901. It power unit is separate from the radio head. I?m guessing the speaker connects to the power unit? I don?t think it?s an AM radio. The frequency dial runs from 200-2000. I did happen to find a website that shows it?s a radio that was new in 1961. Only 31 pounds! http://antique-autoradio-madness.org/Ecko/Ekco-1960_1.htm did the UK have a different set of bandwidths than the US? _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dave at ranteer.com From mgbobh at gmail.com Mon Oct 4 15:41:59 2021 From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad) Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2021 17:41:59 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Radios In-Reply-To: <000a01d7b963$8b944590$a2bcd0b0$@ranteer.com> References: <000a01d7b963$8b944590$a2bcd0b0$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: UK did have different radio frequencies, and their TV screen has a different count of lines/pixels or something. In Hemmings Motor News he may find adverts for US companies that will put US guts into the radio, should he want it to receive here. For many years I had a Motorola that looked similar. When it died, I took it to a guy who has brought back to life my 1960s KLH 21 and my 1972 MGB British Leyland (actually Motorola, dealer-installed) radios. Bob > On Oct 4, 2021, at 5:05 PM, dave wrote: > > Jon - > > My friend has an early 60's right hand drive MG 4 door sedan. It has a radio in it, but only the light comes on. no sound, static, or anything. > > It looks like it?s an Ekco Type 1901. It power unit is separate from the radio head. I?m guessing the speaker connects to the power unit? > > I don?t think it?s an AM radio. The frequency dial runs from 200-2000. I did happen to find a website that shows it?s a radio that was new in 1961. Only 31 pounds! > > http://antique-autoradio-madness.org/Ecko/Ekco-1960_1.htm > > did the UK have a different set of bandwidths than the US? > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Tue Oct 5 00:33:27 2021 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (h.duinhoven at planet.nl) Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2021 08:33:27 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Radios In-Reply-To: <000b01d7b964$5dbfd480$193f7d80$@ranteer.com> References: <000a01d7b963$8b944590$a2bcd0b0$@ranteer.com> <000b01d7b964$5dbfd480$193f7d80$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <000601d7b9b2$e8120010$b8360030$@planet.nl> 200 - 2000 looks to me as MW = Medium Wave band. That was in the early times the most common radio wave band on car radios as I can remember. (I'm from 54) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EKCO Your pushbutton model appears to be a luxury model. Ecko radios appear to be a typical English marketed product. Unknown in the Netherlands. Hope you can find someone who can help. Cheers, Hans 71 BGT -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: Mgs Namens dave Verzonden: maandag 4 oktober 2021 23:11 Aan: mgs at autox.team.net Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Radios (Oops. Should not have had someones name on it) My friend has an early 60's right hand drive MG 4 door sedan. It has a radio in it, but only the light comes on. no sound, static, or anything. It looks like it?s an Ekco Type 1901. It power unit is separate from the radio head. I?m guessing the speaker connects to the power unit? I don?t think it?s an AM radio. The frequency dial runs from 200-2000. I did happen to find a website that shows it?s a radio that was new in 1961. Only 31 pounds! http://antique-autoradio-madness.org/Ecko/Ekco-1960_1.htm did the UK have a different set of bandwidths than the US? _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dave at ranteer.com _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/h.duinhoven at planet.nl -- Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From steve at coastaldatasystems.com Tue Oct 5 05:57:02 2021 From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Steve West-Fisher) Date: Tue, 05 Oct 2021 07:57:02 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Radios In-Reply-To: <000a01d7b963$8b944590$a2bcd0b0$@ranteer.com> References: <000a01d7b963$8b944590$a2bcd0b0$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <80bc9bb8a24b845d14b83f45f2ea98f5@coastaldatasystems.com> On 04.10.2021 17:05, dave wrote: > Jon - > > My friend has an early 60's right hand drive MG 4 door sedan. It has > a radio in it, but only the light comes on. no sound, static, or > anything. > > It looks like it?s an Ekco Type 1901. It power unit is separate from > the radio head. I?m guessing the speaker connects to the power unit? > That is probably a CR1901. Yes, the frequencies were different -they had MW - Medium Wave and LW - Long Wave. The dial is in kHz. I had an Aunt and Uncle who brought back an MG from Germany that had a similar radio. You could pick up the US AM band on MW, the LW band wouldn't have broadcasting in the US but you might be able to pick up some signals. Not sure if longwave is still used in Europe/UK or not for broadcasting. -- Steve West-Fisher N4IK From palte at gmx.net Wed Oct 6 03:52:09 2021 From: palte at gmx.net (palte) Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2021 11:52:09 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Radios In-Reply-To: <000601d7b9b2$e8120010$b8360030$@planet.nl> Message-ID: <1MC30Z-1mdG8b0clp-00CVQS@mail.gmx.net> Hans is right.Long wave: 150 ... 375 kHz (or kilocycles)Medium wave: 531 ... 1715 kHz.In the early 70s, you could still buy a new carradio with only LW and MW, and with a supply of (switch selectable) 6 V or 12 V.I did, for my first car, a Renault 4.BertVerzonden vanaf mijn Galaxy -------- Oorspronkelijk bericht --------Van: h.duinhoven at planet.nl Datum: 05-10-2021 08:36 (GMT+01:00) Aan: 'dave' , mgs at autox.team.net Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Radios 200 - 2000 looks to me as MW = Medium Wave band.That was in the early times the most common radio wave band on car radios as I can remember. (I'm from 54)https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EKCO Your pushbutton model appears to be a luxury model.Ecko radios appear to be a typical English marketed product. Unknown in the Netherlands.Hope you can find someone who can help.Cheers,Hans71 BGT-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----Van: Mgs Namens daveVerzonden: maandag 4 oktober 2021 23:11Aan: mgs at autox.team.netOnderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Radios(Oops.? Should not have had someones name on it)My friend has an early 60's right hand drive MG 4 door sedan.? It has a radio in it, but only the light comes on.? no sound, static, or anything.It looks like it?s an Ekco Type 1901.? It power unit is separate from the radio head.? I?m guessing the speaker connects to the power unit?I don?t think it?s an AM radio.? The frequency dial runs from 200-2000.?? I did happen to find a website that shows it?s a radio that was new in 1961.? Only 31 pounds!http://antique-autoradio-madness.org/Ecko/Ekco-1960_1.htmdid the UK have a different set of bandwidths than the US?_______________________________________________Mgs at autox.team.netDonate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation? $12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archiveUnsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dave at ranteer.com_______________________________________________Mgs@autox.team.netDonate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation? $12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archiveUnsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/h.duinhoven at planet.nl-- Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware.https://www.avast.com/antivirus_______________________________________________Mgs at autox.team.netDonate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation? $12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archiveUnsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/palte at gmx.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Wed Oct 6 04:17:40 2021 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 05:17:40 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Radios In-Reply-To: <80bc9bb8a24b845d14b83f45f2ea98f5@coastaldatasystems.com> References: <000a01d7b963$8b944590$a2bcd0b0$@ranteer.com> <80bc9bb8a24b845d14b83f45f2ea98f5@coastaldatasystems.com> Message-ID: > ...the LW band wouldn't have broadcasting in the US > ... you might be able to pick up some LW band] signals. > > Steve West-Fisher > N4IK ...especially at night, if any entity is still using the LW band. Wiki says, "*The frequency for longwave range from 30KHz to 279 KHz , covering a median wavelength of 150 meters.*" That's really low frequency. The antenna in one's mobile phone is only a few millimeters long, or if a tuned dipole, 3"-6" depending upon the mobile phone band being used. Broadcast FM radio dipole antennas tune at about 4 feet long. We've all seen those kinds of antennas in some cars' windshield glass. A dipole antenna for 30KHz, the very bottom of the LW band, is 15,600 feet long! Rick WD4KIB -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Wed Oct 6 05:04:09 2021 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 06:04:09 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Radios In-Reply-To: References: <000a01d7b963$8b944590$a2bcd0b0$@ranteer.com> <80bc9bb8a24b845d14b83f45f2ea98f5@coastaldatasystems.com> Message-ID: Yes friends, my words copied below are all but totally useless in this circle of MG people, but sometimes talk of radios, frequencies and antennas overcomes ham radio guys like me and we spew mostly useless and irrelevant information. Please forgive. Rick WD4KIB, General Class ...and two MGs On Wed, Oct 6, 2021, 5:17 AM Richard Lindsay wrote: > > ...the LW band wouldn't have > broadcasting in the US > > ... you might be able to pick up some LW band] signals. > > > > Steve West-Fisher > > N4IK > > ...especially at night, if any entity is still using the LW band. Wiki > says, "*The frequency for longwave range from 30KHz to 279 KHz , covering > a median wavelength of 150 meters.*" That's really low frequency. > The antenna in one's mobile phone is only a few millimeters long, or if > a tuned dipole, 3"-6" depending upon the mobile phone band being used. > Broadcast FM radio dipole antennas tune at about 4 feet long. We've all > seen those kinds of antennas in some cars' windshield glass. A dipole > antenna for 30KHz, the very bottom of the LW band, is 15,600 feet long! > > Rick > WD4KIB > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mgbobh at gmail.com Wed Oct 6 05:52:01 2021 From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad) Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 07:52:01 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Radios In-Reply-To: References: <000a01d7b963$8b944590$a2bcd0b0$@ranteer.com> <80bc9bb8a24b845d14b83f45f2ea98f5@coastaldatasystems.com> Message-ID: <122A8E17-CCAC-4246-96C8-8B967656A5D3@gmail.com> Not at all useless, Rick. I have long wondered why the antennae in Annapolis MD, on the point south of Naval Academy, were so long, and your 15,600 ft measure explains it. Bob > On Oct 6, 2021, at 7:04 AM, Richard Lindsay wrote: > > Yes friends, my words copied below are all but totally useless in this circle of MG people, but sometimes talk of radios, frequencies and antennas overcomes ham radio guys like me and we spew mostly useless and irrelevant information. Please forgive. > > Rick WD4KIB, General Class ...and two MGs > >> On Wed, Oct 6, 2021, 5:17 AM Richard Lindsay wrote: >> > ...the LW band wouldn't have >> broadcasting in the US >> > ... you might be able to pick up some LW band] signals. >> > >> > Steve West-Fisher >> > N4IK >> >> ...especially at night, if any entity is still using the LW band. Wiki says, "The frequency for longwave range from 30KHz to 279 KHz , covering a median wavelength of 150 meters." That's really low frequency. >> The antenna in one's mobile phone is only a few millimeters long, or if a tuned dipole, 3"-6" depending upon the mobile phone band being used. Broadcast FM radio dipole antennas tune at about 4 feet long. We've all seen those kinds of antennas in some cars' windshield glass. A dipole antenna for 30KHz, the very bottom of the LW band, is 15,600 feet long! >> >> Rick >> WD4KIB > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stargazer1 at cox.net Wed Oct 6 10:33:03 2021 From: stargazer1 at cox.net (David Ambrose) Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 09:33:03 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Radios In-Reply-To: References: <000a01d7b963$8b944590$a2bcd0b0$@ranteer.com> <80bc9bb8a24b845d14b83f45f2ea98f5@coastaldatasystems.com> Message-ID: <41cd33fd-6314-6ff0-9466-c6af47eeb3c6@cox.net> Not totally useless. I understood them. I'm not a ham, but I did a lot of shortwave listening as a youth. On 10/6/2021 4:04 AM, Richard Lindsay wrote: > Yes friends, my words copied below are all but totally useless in this > circle of MG people, but sometimes talk of radios, frequencies and > antennas overcomes ham radio guys like me and we spew mostly useless > and irrelevant information. Please forgive. > > Rick WD4KIB, General Class ...and two MGs > > On Wed, Oct 6, 2021, 5:17 AM Richard Lindsay > wrote: > > > ...the LW band wouldn't have > broadcasting in the US > > ... you might be able to pick up some LW band] signals. > > > > Steve West-Fisher > > N4IK > > ...especially at night, if any entity is still using the LW band. > Wiki says, "/The frequency for longwave range from 30KHz to 279 > KHz , covering a median wavelength of 150 meters./" That's really > low frequency. > ? ?The antenna in one's mobile phone is only a few millimeters > long, or if a tuned dipole, 3"-6" depending upon the mobile phone > band being used. Broadcast FM radio dipole antennas tune at about > 4 feet long. We've all seen those kinds of antennas in some cars' > windshield glass. A dipole antenna for 30KHz, the very bottom of > the LW band, is 15,600 feet long! > > Rick > WD4KIB > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/stargazer1 at cox.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Wed Oct 6 11:06:26 2021 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 10:06:26 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Radios In-Reply-To: <122A8E17-CCAC-4246-96C8-8B967656A5D3@gmail.com> References: <000a01d7b963$8b944590$a2bcd0b0$@ranteer.com> <80bc9bb8a24b845d14b83f45f2ea98f5@coastaldatasystems.com> <122A8E17-CCAC-4246-96C8-8B967656A5D3@gmail.com> Message-ID: On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 5:00 AM Robert's New iPad wrote: > > Not at all useless, Rick. > I have long wondered why the antennae in Annapolis MD, on the point south of Naval Academy, were so long, and your 15,600 ft measure explains it. Submarine communications. Simon From springer.mike51 at gmail.com Sun Oct 10 13:48:09 2021 From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2021 12:48:09 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Brake Booster Message-ID: Who has added a brake booster to their MGB or MGB GT which initially did not have one? Do you have pictures of where you mounted and how you did it. I just put new pads and rotors on my 69 MGB GT. It still takes a lot of effort to apply the brakes. Mike MacLean 1969 MGB GT 1960 Austin Healey Sprite (Bugeye) 1956 Austin Healey BN2 Lemans conversion -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Mon Oct 11 02:04:00 2021 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2021 09:04:00 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Brake Booster References: Message-ID: <42C3276EEE1B485C80D7EFB9521A49B5@paul> If you are comparing it with a modern car then yes the MGB can be considered 'heavy', but I find modern way too sensitive for my liking. The factory booster makes very little difference, I've driven them with and without, and with but disabled, and noticed almost no difference. There are 'stronger' after-market ones though. If this is an LHD then I've seen them fitted on the passenger side against the bulkhead, but because of the limited space that side of the heater pointing forwards instead of across like they are on RHD. You can see one in a factory LHD V8 here http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/servo.htm#7, one of the cars sent to America for testing then returned and ended up in Europe. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Who has added a brake booster to their MGB or MGB GT which initially did not have one? Do you have pictures of where you mounted and how you did it. I just put new pads and rotors on my 69 MGB GT. It still takes a lot of effort to apply the brakes. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Mon Oct 11 02:36:41 2021 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (h.duinhoven at planet.nl) Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2021 10:36:41 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Brake Booster In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <003701d7be7b$1daed190$590c74b0$@planet.nl> Depends to what car you compare Michael. My 1971 also does not have a booster, but the brakes are working very well and with good ?feeling?. Other parts of the brake system may well contribute to the need of a firmer pressure than expected like: Brake calliper pistons may be not moving freely Master cylinder may in need of a service ? overhaul Brake pedal pivot point not working well? Hans 71 BGT Van: Mgs Namens Michael MacLean Verzonden: zondag 10 oktober 2021 21:48 Aan: mgs at autox.team.net Onderwerp: [Mgs] Brake Booster Who has added a brake booster to their MGB or MGB GT which initially did not have one? Do you have pictures of where you mounted and how you did it. I just put new pads and rotors on my 69 MGB GT. It still takes a lot of effort to apply the brakes. Mike MacLean 1969 MGB GT 1960 Austin Healey Sprite (Bugeye) 1956 Austin Healey BN2 Lemans conversion -- Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Mon Oct 11 05:51:24 2021 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2021 06:51:24 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Brake Booster In-Reply-To: <003701d7be7b$1daed190$590c74b0$@planet.nl> References: <003701d7be7b$1daed190$590c74b0$@planet.nl> Message-ID: <001d01d7be96$51bece70$f53c6b50$@ranteer.com> Sounds to me like the calipers need to be rebuilt From: Mgs On Behalf Of h.duinhoven at planet.nl Sent: Monday, October 11, 2021 3:37 AM To: 'Michael MacLean' ; mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake Booster Depends to what car you compare Michael. My 1971 also does not have a booster, but the brakes are working very well and with good ?feeling?. Other parts of the brake system may well contribute to the need of a firmer pressure than expected like: Brake calliper pistons may be not moving freely Master cylinder may in need of a service ? overhaul Brake pedal pivot point not working well? Hans 71 BGT Van: Mgs > Namens Michael MacLean Verzonden: zondag 10 oktober 2021 21:48 Aan: mgs at autox.team.net Onderwerp: [Mgs] Brake Booster Who has added a brake booster to their MGB or MGB GT which initially did not have one? Do you have pictures of where you mounted and how you did it. I just put new pads and rotors on my 69 MGB GT. It still takes a lot of effort to apply the brakes. Mike MacLean 1969 MGB GT 1960 Austin Healey Sprite (Bugeye) 1956 Austin Healey BN2 Lemans conversion Virusvrij. www.avast.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lrc at red4est.com Thu Oct 14 15:01:58 2021 From: lrc at red4est.com (Larry Colen) Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2021 14:01:58 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] About a dozen Ro-styles near Santa Cruz Message-ID: <1DADE4A7-B823-4EF0-B3A0-7658A9271A9A@red4est.com> I?ve got about a dozen ro-style wheels in usable but rough condition. I was using them on my MGB, I think I had one set of street tires and about two sets of track tires. I eventually got a couple sets of minitors, and will probably switch to 15? when I get it back on the road. It?d be nice to get some money for them, but I mostly need the space and it would be a shame to send them to the dump. Some of them might have old tires mounted. They?re buried in a shed and I?m trying to clean this place up. -- Larry Colen lrc at red4est.com From lundgren at byu.net Thu Oct 21 17:07:02 2021 From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew Lundgren) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2021 17:07:02 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Repost of someone else's ad. Message-ID: I've got no financial interest in this: https://www.reddit.com/r/MorrisGarages/comments/qd2sv3/selling_this_car_still_if_anyone_is_interested/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wkilleffer at epbfi.com Sat Oct 23 11:04:31 2021 From: wkilleffer at epbfi.com (wkilleffer at epbfi.com) Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2021 13:04:31 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Mgs] MGB rear brake questions Message-ID: <1329463002.116385690.1635008671327.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com> Hello everyone, The car I'm working on is a 1974 MGB roadster. I decided that I wanted to replace everything relating to the brakes and their hydraulics except for the metal lines. I ordered the parts from Moss but had to sit on them for a couple of years before actually starting the project. So, I got the new master cylinder installed, which is probably one of the more challenging things I've ever done on the car. Next step was working on the rear brakes. The rubber hose in the back was pretty simple, but the issue is with the wheel cylinders. I replaced them maybe twenty years ago and didn't have any trouble. But these new ones have a roller pin on them that doesn't line up with the holes on the brake's backing plate. It's been too long to try and swap them with Moss, and I'm not sure that would do any good anyway because I don't recall that there were too many choices for that part. You could get a cheaper aftermarket or a more expensive part that may be made in England. I went with the cheaper one. Has this been an issue for anyone else? I could probably drill another hole in the back plate to match the roll pin, but that seems like one of those DPO solutions. Also, I don't feel like I should have to entertain such a notion anyway. The part should fit and function correctly. The current wheel cylinders are probably ok to re-use, but I liked the idea of all new parts. The front brakes are also on the agenda, but we're not there yet. The next question has to do with bleeding the rear brakes. I started to bleed the brake furthest from the MC using a vacuum tool I got at a well-known less expensive (think shipping at a port) tool store. It's been a letdown for several reasons, among them that the bleeders on the wheel cylinders seem too small for the bleeder fittings that came with the tool, which causes the tool to draw a great deal of air through its system. I seemed to barely be able to get any fluid through the system. The trouble I have is that I am single and live alone, so I don't have any readily available sources of help. If the brakes are going to be bled, I have to do them by myself. Does anyone have any advice on this topic? Thank you, -William 1974 MGB -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Sat Oct 23 11:23:50 2021 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2021 10:23:50 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGB rear brake questions In-Reply-To: <1329463002.116385690.1635008671327.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com> References: <1329463002.116385690.1635008671327.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com> Message-ID: <37F096F1-0D35-4AFF-805C-5CE3AB6B9A5F@sonic.net> I don't really have any answers, I can just confirm that wheel cylinders are a part which has been ?down-qualitied? to the point that they are scarcely serviceable. The offshore manufacturers seem to have settled on the tiniest possible bleeders, often with 7mm hexes ? a size so small that it is not included in most wrench sets, and which offers almost zero resistance to rounding. Next time I am going to try rebuilding the cylinders instead. If they have been driven at all they usually don?t need honing ? just new seals. As for the vacuum bleeder, I don?t know what the bleeder fittings in your kit look like, but maybe you could just substitute a different size hose? It has to seal well or it won?t work. In the past I have cobbled up adapters using metal tubes, different sizes of hose and hose clamps. Good luck. -- Max Heim '66 MGB > On Oct 23, 2021, at 10:04 AM, wkilleffer at epbfi.com wrote: > > Hello everyone, > > The car I'm working on is a 1974 MGB roadster. I decided that I wanted to replace everything relating to the brakes and their hydraulics except for the metal lines. I ordered the parts from Moss but had to sit on them for a couple of years before actually starting the project. > > So, I got the new master cylinder installed, which is probably one of the more challenging things I've ever done on the car. Next step was working on the rear brakes. The rubber hose in the back was pretty simple, but the issue is with the wheel cylinders. I replaced them maybe twenty years ago and didn't have any trouble. But these new ones have a roller pin on them that doesn't line up with the holes on the brake's backing plate. It's been too long to try and swap them with Moss, and I'm not sure that would do any good anyway because I don't recall that there were too many choices for that part. You could get a cheaper aftermarket or a more expensive part that may be made in England. I went with the cheaper one. > > Has this been an issue for anyone else? I could probably drill another hole in the back plate to match the roll pin, but that seems like one of those DPO solutions. Also, I don't feel like I should have to entertain such a notion anyway. The part should fit and function correctly. The current wheel cylinders are probably ok to re-use, but I liked the idea of all new parts. The front brakes are also on the agenda, but we're not there yet. > > The next question has to do with bleeding the rear brakes. I started to bleed the brake furthest from the MC using a vacuum tool I got at a well-known less expensive (think shipping at a port) tool store. It's been a letdown for several reasons, among them that the bleeders on the wheel cylinders seem too small for the bleeder fittings that came with the tool, which causes the tool to draw a great deal of air through its system. I seemed to barely be able to get any fluid through the system. The trouble I have is that I am single and live alone, so I don't have any readily available sources of help. If the brakes are going to be bled, I have to do them by myself. Does anyone have any advice on this topic? > > Thank you, > -William > 1974 MGB > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mgbobh at gmail.com Sat Oct 23 11:36:03 2021 From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad) Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2021 13:36:03 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB rear brake questions In-Reply-To: <1329463002.116385690.1635008671327.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com> References: <1329463002.116385690.1635008671327.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com> Message-ID: The rear-brake question opens more questions. MGBs had rear cylinders to fit the Tourers and the GTs, different sizes of cylinders and different back plates. The roll pins located the cylinders in the correct backing plates. Thus the questions arise: Tourer back plates and new GT cylinders? GT backplates and new Tourer cylinders? Car modified before you got it? Wrong cylinders ordered/shipped? Having wrestled through this with my GT, it was years back and now I do not recall which cylinders (size and pin location) are Tourer or GT. Someone will know, though, and that challenge easily mastered. GT cylinders are larger, suited to the additional weight of GTs. If you have to swap parts, do it the way MG built it?they got it right. As you replaced them years ago, my bet is that the vendor shipped wrong cylinders. As to the bleeding, my experience has been that ordinary pedal pushing has done fine for me on many cars, though I did install speed bleeders on this GT. They are an easy exchange and work OK, but the savings of 1/4 cup of brake fluid doing the job are hardly worthwhile. If the rear brakes are difficult to bleed, have a close look at the metal pipes on the axle. A car that has been flat-bed carried may have had the straps wrapped around the axle, crushing the tubes. That?s not an unusual thing to find. Since you are changing hoses, have you changed clutch hose? These break down internally whilst appearing fine externally. As you do the change, do it swiftly, w/o interruption, as introducing a bubble into the line is altogether too easy, and bleeding the clutch line has made many an owner irate. Bob > On Oct 23, 2021, at 1:04 PM, wkilleffer at epbfi.com wrote: > > Hello everyone, > > The car I'm working on is a 1974 MGB roadster. I decided that I wanted to replace everything relating to the brakes and their hydraulics except for the metal lines. I ordered the parts from Moss but had to sit on them for a couple of years before actually starting the project. > > So, I got the new master cylinder installed, which is probably one of the more challenging things I've ever done on the car. Next step was working on the rear brakes. The rubber hose in the back was pretty simple, but the issue is with the wheel cylinders. I replaced them maybe twenty years ago and didn't have any trouble. But these new ones have a roller pin on them that doesn't line up with the holes on the brake's backing plate. It's been too long to try and swap them with Moss, and I'm not sure that would do any good anyway because I don't recall that there were too many choices for that part. You could get a cheaper aftermarket or a more expensive part that may be made in England. I went with the cheaper one. > > Has this been an issue for anyone else? I could probably drill another hole in the back plate to match the roll pin, but that seems like one of those DPO solutions. Also, I don't feel like I should have to entertain such a notion anyway. The part should fit and function correctly. The current wheel cylinders are probably ok to re-use, but I liked the idea of all new parts. The front brakes are also on the agenda, but we're not there yet. > > The next question has to do with bleeding the rear brakes. I started to bleed the brake furthest from the MC using a vacuum tool I got at a well-known less expensive (think shipping at a port) tool store. It's been a letdown for several reasons, among them that the bleeders on the wheel cylinders seem too small for the bleeder fittings that came with the tool, which causes the tool to draw a great deal of air through its system. I seemed to barely be able to get any fluid through the system. The trouble I have is that I am single and live alone, so I don't have any readily available sources of help. If the brakes are going to be bled, I have to do them by myself. Does anyone have any advice on this topic? > > Thank you, > -William > 1974 MGB > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wkilleffer at epbfi.com Sat Oct 23 11:44:51 2021 From: wkilleffer at epbfi.com (wkilleffer at epbfi.com) Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2021 13:44:51 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Mgs] MGB rear brake questions In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1031194420.116434484.1635011091394.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com> Thank you for your reply. As far as the type of wheel cylinders, I don't recall that there was a choice as to whether they were for a GT or a roadster. The only choice was either Lockheed brand (maybe) for more $, or an aftermarket for less $. As far as I know, the back plates are original, but I've only owned the car for 20 years. Its engine is not original, so who knows what else could have been swapped. Can you shed more light on the whole speed bleeder thing? And how do do pedal pumping bleeding when you're by yourself? The fluid is making its way back to the wheel cylinder, so no lines are crimped. But thanks to the poor fitment of the bleeder thing with the tool, I can't tell if the air bubbles are coming through the brake lines or are air being drawn into the bleeder because the fitment isn't good. Yes, I did the clutch system a couple or three years ago. It was a bit frustrating, but seems ok now. Thank you, -William From: "Robert's New iPad" To: wkilleffer at epbfi.com Cc: mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2021 1:36:03 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB rear brake questions The rear-brake question opens more questions. MGBs had rear cylinders to fit the Tourers and the GTs, different sizes of cylinders and different back plates. The roll pins located the cylinders in the correct backing plates. Thus the questions arise: Tourer back plates and new GT cylinders? GT backplates and new Tourer cylinders? Car modified before you got it? Wrong cylinders ordered/shipped? Having wrestled through this with my GT, it was years back and now I do not recall which cylinders (size and pin location) are Tourer or GT. Someone will know, though, and that challenge easily mastered. GT cylinders are larger, suited to the additional weight of GTs. If you have to swap parts, do it the way MG built it?they got it right. As you replaced them years ago, my bet is that the vendor shipped wrong cylinders. As to the bleeding, my experience has been that ordinary pedal pushing has done fine for me on many cars, though I did install speed bleeders on this GT. They are an easy exchange and work OK, but the savings of 1/4 cup of brake fluid doing the job are hardly worthwhile. If the rear brakes are difficult to bleed, have a close look at the metal pipes on the axle. A car that has been flat-bed carried may have had the straps wrapped around the axle, crushing the tubes. That?s not an unusual thing to find. Since you are changing hoses, have you changed clutch hose? These break down internally whilst appearing fine externally. As you do the change, do it swiftly, w/o interruption, as introducing a bubble into the line is altogether too easy, and bleeding the clutch line has made many an owner irate. Bob On Oct 23, 2021, at 1:04 PM, [ mailto:wkilleffer at epbfi.com | wkilleffer at epbfi.com ] wrote: Hello everyone, The car I'm working on is a 1974 MGB roadster. I decided that I wanted to replace everything relating to the brakes and their hydraulics except for the metal lines. I ordered the parts from Moss but had to sit on them for a couple of years before actually starting the project. So, I got the new master cylinder installed, which is probably one of the more challenging things I've ever done on the car. Next step was working on the rear brakes. The rubber hose in the back was pretty simple, but the issue is with the wheel cylinders. I replaced them maybe twenty years ago and didn't have any trouble. But these new ones have a roller pin on them that doesn't line up with the holes on the brake's backing plate. It's been too long to try and swap them with Moss, and I'm not sure that would do any good anyway because I don't recall that there were too many choices for that part. You could get a cheaper aftermarket or a more expensive part that may be made in England. I went with the cheaper one. Has this been an issue for anyone else? I could probably drill another hole in the back plate to match the roll pin, but that seems like one of those DPO solutions. Also, I don't feel like I should have to entertain such a notion anyway. The part should fit and function correctly. The current wheel cylinders are probably ok to re-use, but I liked the idea of all new parts. The front brakes are also on the agenda, but we're not there yet. The next question has to do with bleeding the rear brakes. I started to bleed the brake furthest from the MC using a vacuum tool I got at a well-known less expensive (think shipping at a port) tool store. It's been a letdown for several reasons, among them that the bleeders on the wheel cylinders seem too small for the bleeder fittings that came with the tool, which causes the tool to draw a great deal of air through its system. I seemed to barely be able to get any fluid through the system. The trouble I have is that I am single and live alone, so I don't have any readily available sources of help. If the brakes are going to be bled, I have to do them by myself. Does anyone have any advice on this topic? Thank you, -William 1974 MGB BQ_BEGIN _______________________________________________ [ mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net | Mgs at autox.team.net ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs | http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs ] [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] Unsubscribe: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com ] BQ_END -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stargazer1 at cox.net Sat Oct 23 12:33:50 2021 From: stargazer1 at cox.net (David Ambrose) Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2021 11:33:50 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGB rear brake questions In-Reply-To: <1031194420.116434484.1635011091394.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com> References: <1031194420.116434484.1635011091394.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com> Message-ID: You have the wrong wheel cylinders. The GTs have a different (larger) rear brake cylinder than the roadsters. The roll pins are in different locations to prevent them from inadvertently getting swapped. I don't think you want to use the GT cylinders on a roadster as it would put too much braking in the rear which will make the car very tail happy under emergency braking. Cheers, Dave On 10/23/2021 10:44 AM, wkilleffer at epbfi.com wrote: > Thank you for your reply. > As far as the type of wheel cylinders, I don't recall that there was a > choice as to whether they were for a GT or a roadster. The only choice > was either Lockheed brand (maybe) for more $, or an aftermarket for > less $. As far as I know, the back plates are original, but I've only > owned the car for 20 years. Its engine is not original, so who knows > what else could have been swapped. > Can you shed more light on the whole speed bleeder thing? And how do > do pedal pumping bleeding when you're by yourself? > The fluid is making its way back to the wheel cylinder, so no lines > are crimped. But thanks to the poor fitment of the bleeder thing with > the tool, I can't tell if the air bubbles are coming through the brake > lines or are air being drawn into the bleeder because the fitment > isn't good. > Yes, I did the clutch system a couple or three years ago. It was a bit > frustrating, but seems ok now. > > Thank you, > -William > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From: *"Robert's New iPad" > *To: *wkilleffer at epbfi.com > *Cc: *mgs at autox.team.net > *Sent: *Saturday, October 23, 2021 1:36:03 PM > *Subject: *Re: [Mgs] MGB rear brake questions > > The rear-brake question opens more questions. ? ?MGBs had rear > cylinders to fit the Tourers and the GTs, different sizes of cylinders > and different back plates. ? ?The roll pins located the cylinders in > the correct backing plates. > Thus the questions arise: ?Tourer back plates and new GT cylinders? GT > backplates and new Tourer cylinders? ?Car modified before you got it? > ?Wrong cylinders ordered/shipped? > Having wrestled through this with my GT, it was years back and now I > do not recall which cylinders (size and pin location) are Tourer or > GT. ?Someone will know, though, and that challenge easily mastered. ? > GT cylinders are larger, suited to the additional weight of GTs. ?If > you have to swap parts, do it the way MG built it?they got it right. > As you replaced them years ago, my bet is that the vendor shipped > wrong cylinders. > As to the bleeding, my experience has been that ordinary pedal pushing > has done fine for me on many cars, though I did install speed bleeders > on this GT. ?They are an easy exchange and work OK, but the savings of > 1/4 cup of brake fluid doing the job are hardly worthwhile. ? If the > rear brakes are difficult to bleed, have a close look at the metal > pipes on the axle. ?A car that has been flat-bed carried may have had > the straps wrapped around the axle, crushing the tubes. ?That?s not an > unusual thing to find. > Since you are changing hoses, have you changed clutch hose? ?These > break down internally whilst appearing fine externally. As you do the > change, do it swiftly, w/o interruption, as introducing a bubble into > the line is altogether too easy, and bleeding the clutch line has made > many an owner irate. > Bob > > > On Oct 23, 2021, at 1:04 PM, wkilleffer at epbfi.com wrote: > > Hello everyone, > > The car I'm working on is a 1974 MGB roadster. I decided that I > wanted to replace everything relating to the brakes and their > hydraulics except for the metal lines. I ordered the parts from > Moss but had to sit on them for a couple of years before actually > starting the project. > > So, I got the new master cylinder installed, which is probably one > of the more challenging things I've ever done on the car. Next > step was working on the rear brakes. The rubber hose in the back > was pretty simple, but the issue is with the wheel cylinders. I > replaced them maybe twenty years ago and didn't have any trouble. > But these new ones have a roller pin on them that doesn't line up > with the holes on the brake's backing plate. It's been too long to > try and swap them with Moss, and I'm not sure that would do any > good anyway because I don't recall that there were too many > choices for that part. You could get a cheaper aftermarket or a > more expensive part that may be made in England. I went with the > cheaper one. > > Has this been an issue for anyone else? I could probably drill > another hole in the back plate to match the roll pin, but that > seems like one of those DPO solutions. Also, I don't feel like I > should have to entertain such a notion anyway. The part should fit > and function correctly. The current wheel cylinders are probably > ok to re-use, but I liked the idea of all new parts. The front > brakes are also on the agenda, but we're not there yet. > > The next question has to do with bleeding the rear brakes. I > started to bleed the brake furthest from the MC using a vacuum > tool I got at a well-known less expensive (think shipping at a > port) tool store. It's been a letdown for several reasons, among > them that the bleeders on the wheel cylinders seem too small for > the bleeder fittings that came with the tool, which causes the > tool to draw a great deal of air through its system. I seemed to > barely be able to get any fluid through the system. The trouble I > have is that I am single and live alone, so I don't have any > readily available sources of help. If the brakes are going to be > bled, I have to do them by myself. Does anyone have any advice on > this topic? > > Thank you, > -William > 1974 MGB > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/stargazer1 at cox.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mgbobh at gmail.com Sat Oct 23 16:41:53 2021 From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad) Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2021 18:41:53 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB rear brake questions In-Reply-To: <1031194420.116434484.1635011091394.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com> References: <1031194420.116434484.1635011091394.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com> Message-ID: <19593853-EE79-47D3-B85D-E737C024E13A@gmail.com> Hi William, Check out Abingdon Spares. Much of their stock is Moss, but often they have other suppliers? products, and everything they offer is good stuff. Disclosure?Ed and Martin are friends, supporters of CT MG Club, active drivers, and AS is 15 miles from here. If you did not specify GT wheel cylinders last time, I?m sure that supplier sent you Tourer cylinders, which are the ones you want. Ring up Abingdon on Monday and get the ones you need. If you are holding the wrong ones in your hand, they can confirm what it is you have. Had a previous owner switched back plates to GT and used GT cylinders, you may have experienced premature rear-wheel lockup. It?s not an iffy thing?-you know when it happens, and it?s not a good experience. Have a look at speed bleeder site. I am ambivalent about the things, though my friends love them. Seems to me you still have to put a bleed hose on the bleeder and watch the fluid coming out. The thing that?s good about them is that they shut when pressure on the pedal is released, so they don?t suck air. When done, you snug them gently as you would regular bleeders. I was working today on a Triumph Super Nine brakes, in my garage. The Mighty Vac didn?t seem all that mighty. We resorted to pedal pressure, which worked better, but not great. These 1932 Lockheed brakes (on an English car, no less) are similar to our MGB rear brakes, but different in detail. Cast aluminium shoes, for one, shoes linked at the bottom, not pivoting. The adjuster pushes the shoes apart near the top, where the double-side cylinder expands. The bleed screw is minuscule, with a pin-hole orifice, and it screws into an adapter that goes into the cylinders, adapter with two pin-hole orifices. Behind the adapter is a ball bearing. Huh? We are cautiously learning as we go, among other things learning that a tiny piece of rust blocks those fluid passages. Master Cylinder is just back from White Post, so it should be the one thing in the system that we can count on being right. Look up Triumph Super Nine in Wikipedia. This is the blue car with black wings that is in the photo. It may be the only one in USA. Owner has diligently scanned the internet for anything pertaining to the car. All the factory publications went up in smoke one night in 1940. Happy to read that the evil clutch work is done. Brakes are a doddle after that. Bob > On Oct 23, 2021, at 1:44 PM, wkilleffer at epbfi.com wrote: > > Thank you for your reply. > As far as the type of wheel cylinders, I don't recall that there was a choice as to whether they were for a GT or a roadster. The only choice was either Lockheed brand (maybe) for more $, or an aftermarket for less $. As far as I know, the back plates are original, but I've only owned the car for 20 years. Its engine is not original, so who knows what else could have been swapped. > Can you shed more light on the whole speed bleeder thing? And how do do pedal pumping bleeding when you're by yourself? > The fluid is making its way back to the wheel cylinder, so no lines are crimped. But thanks to the poor fitment of the bleeder thing with the tool, I can't tell if the air bubbles are coming through the brake lines or are air being drawn into the bleeder because the fitment isn't good. > Yes, I did the clutch system a couple or three years ago. It was a bit frustrating, but seems ok now. > > Thank you, > -William > > From: "Robert's New iPad" > To: wkilleffer at epbfi.com > Cc: mgs at autox.team.net > Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2021 1:36:03 PM > Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB rear brake questions > > The rear-brake question opens more questions. MGBs had rear cylinders to fit the Tourers and the GTs, different sizes of cylinders and different back plates. The roll pins located the cylinders in the correct backing plates. > Thus the questions arise: Tourer back plates and new GT cylinders? GT backplates and new Tourer cylinders? Car modified before you got it? Wrong cylinders ordered/shipped? > Having wrestled through this with my GT, it was years back and now I do not recall which cylinders (size and pin location) are Tourer or GT. Someone will know, though, and that challenge easily mastered. GT cylinders are larger, suited to the additional weight of GTs. If you have to swap parts, do it the way MG built it?they got it right. > As you replaced them years ago, my bet is that the vendor shipped wrong cylinders. > As to the bleeding, my experience has been that ordinary pedal pushing has done fine for me on many cars, though I did install speed bleeders on this GT. They are an easy exchange and work OK, but the savings of 1/4 cup of brake fluid doing the job are hardly worthwhile. If the rear brakes are difficult to bleed, have a close look at the metal pipes on the axle. A car that has been flat-bed carried may have had the straps wrapped around the axle, crushing the tubes. That?s not an unusual thing to find. > Since you are changing hoses, have you changed clutch hose? These break down internally whilst appearing fine externally. As you do the change, do it swiftly, w/o interruption, as introducing a bubble into the line is altogether too easy, and bleeding the clutch line has made many an owner irate. > Bob > > > On Oct 23, 2021, at 1:04 PM, wkilleffer at epbfi.com wrote: > > Hello everyone, > > The car I'm working on is a 1974 MGB roadster. I decided that I wanted to replace everything relating to the brakes and their hydraulics except for the metal lines. I ordered the parts from Moss but had to sit on them for a couple of years before actually starting the project. > > So, I got the new master cylinder installed, which is probably one of the more challenging things I've ever done on the car. Next step was working on the rear brakes. The rubber hose in the back was pretty simple, but the issue is with the wheel cylinders. I replaced them maybe twenty years ago and didn't have any trouble. But these new ones have a roller pin on them that doesn't line up with the holes on the brake's backing plate. It's been too long to try and swap them with Moss, and I'm not sure that would do any good anyway because I don't recall that there were too many choices for that part. You could get a cheaper aftermarket or a more expensive part that may be made in England. I went with the cheaper one. > > Has this been an issue for anyone else? I could probably drill another hole in the back plate to match the roll pin, but that seems like one of those DPO solutions. Also, I don't feel like I should have to entertain such a notion anyway. The part should fit and function correctly. The current wheel cylinders are probably ok to re-use, but I liked the idea of all new parts. The front brakes are also on the agenda, but we're not there yet. > > The next question has to do with bleeding the rear brakes. I started to bleed the brake furthest from the MC using a vacuum tool I got at a well-known less expensive (think shipping at a port) tool store. It's been a letdown for several reasons, among them that the bleeders on the wheel cylinders seem too small for the bleeder fittings that came with the tool, which causes the tool to draw a great deal of air through its system. I seemed to barely be able to get any fluid through the system. The trouble I have is that I am single and live alone, so I don't have any readily available sources of help. If the brakes are going to be bled, I have to do them by myself. Does anyone have any advice on this topic? > > Thank you, > -William > 1974 MGB > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Sun Oct 24 03:57:29 2021 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2021 10:57:29 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGB rear brake questions In-Reply-To: <1031194420.116434484.1635011091394.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com> References: <1031194420.116434484.1635011091394.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com> Message-ID: <048d921d-860f-3377-2d55-91e3668af2e2@virginmedia.com> The GT originally had the same wheel cylinders as the roadster, changing in May 68 for the larger item which can take more braking effort without locking up in the wet.? Incidentally the factory V8 used the smaller ones, presumably because with the harder springs there was more chance of locking up over bumps.? You are unlikely to notice the difference on dry tarmac.? Rather than describe them the two types can be seen here http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/brakecyl.htm#3 The purpose of Speedbleeders is to allow single-handed pedal bleeding of hydraulic systems, but they are pretty expensive for what they are and the number of times they are used.?? They contain a spring-loaded valve which is normally bolted down tight, but when bleeding you slacken them off so that only the spring is keeping the valve closed.? Then when you press on the pedal fluid pressure opens the valve to let air/fluid out, and when releasing the pedal they close again to stop air going back in.? I've always used EeziBleed. Regardless of which method you use to get air out I've always found that after low pressure bleeding they are spongy and it needs to be done with high pressure that does need two people. One presses down on the pedal as hard as they can while the other rapidly opens and closes each caliper nipple in turn, which always blasts a bit more air out, after that they are fine.? The front of the car needs to be a bit higher than the rear as well. PaulH. On 23/10/2021 18:44, wkilleffer at epbfi.com wrote: > As far as the type of wheel cylinders, I don't recall that there was a > choice as to whether they were for a GT or a roadster. The only choice > was either Lockheed brand (maybe) for more $, or an aftermarket for > less $. As far as I know, the back plates are original, but I've only > owned the car for 20 years. Its engine is not original, so who knows > what else could have been swapped. > Can you shed more light on the whole speed bleeder thing? And how do > do pedal pumping bleeding when you're by yourself? > The fluid is making its way back to the wheel cylinder, so no lines > are crimped. But thanks to the poor fitment of the bleeder thing with > the tool, I can't tell if the air bubbles are coming through the brake > lines or are air being drawn into the bleeder because the fitment > isn't good. > Yes, I did the clutch system a couple or three years ago. It was a bit > frustrating, but seems ok now. > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Sun Oct 24 09:35:30 2021 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2021 10:35:30 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGB rear brake questions In-Reply-To: <19593853-EE79-47D3-B85D-E737C024E13A@gmail.com> References: <1031194420.116434484.1635011091394.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com> <19593853-EE79-47D3-B85D-E737C024E13A@gmail.com> Message-ID: <001a01d7c8ec$c7679390$5636bab0$@ranteer.com> http://speedbleeder.com/ many of us usually work in the garage alone. Speedbleeders are fantastic! Brakes and clutch, allows you to just bleed them. You probably want to use a hose to guide the drippings; otherwise you get brake fluid sprayed around. I can?t believe someone said they are expensive. Really? Less than $10 a pair last time I bought them. Given the time and effort and money we put into these vehicles????? My wife loves them; bleeding was not a favorite activity of hers. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mgbobh at gmail.com Sun Oct 24 16:28:33 2021 From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad) Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2021 18:28:33 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB rear brake questions In-Reply-To: <001a01d7c8ec$c7679390$5636bab0$@ranteer.com> References: <1031194420.116434484.1635011091394.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com> <19593853-EE79-47D3-B85D-E737C024E13A@gmail.com> <001a01d7c8ec$c7679390$5636bab0$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: Hi Dave, The reader who commented that they were expensive is in the UK, where they usually pay in ? what we pay in $$. When I see the adverts from Halfords and other places that might be equivalent to our NAPA stores, I feel bad that it costs so much more to support an MG habit in their home market. Bob > On Oct 24, 2021, at 11:35 AM, dave wrote: > > http://speedbleeder.com/ > > many of us usually work in the garage alone. Speedbleeders are fantastic! Brakes and clutch, allows you to just bleed them. You probably want to use a hose to guide the drippings; otherwise you get brake fluid sprayed around. I can?t believe someone said they are expensive. Really? Less than $10 a pair last time I bought them. Given the time and effort and money we put into these vehicles????? My wife loves them; bleeding was not a favorite activity of hers. > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wkilleffer at epbfi.com Wed Oct 27 09:56:09 2021 From: wkilleffer at epbfi.com (William Killeffer) Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2021 11:56:09 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Metal dash in a later car Message-ID: Hello everyone, My car is a 1974 CB roadster. A couple of years ago, I replaced the foam portion of the dashboard because it had several deep cracks in it, and was looking worse than shabby. My efforts to spiff it up weren?t satisfactory. So, I stripped off the old pad except for the firm foam that?s riveted to the metal dash plate and replaced it with a new dash pad. The instructions were pretty bad and the end result was a disappointment. I was so upset with it that I nearly sold the car just so I didn?t have to look at the disappointing dash anymore. I got over that, but am still not happy. One part of the problem is that the metal plate has some rust damage due to old leaks around the windshield. Now, someone is selling a nice looking metal dash out of an earlier car. In theory, it should fit in the same spot as a padded dash and attach to the car the same way, right? I know some of the wiring would be different and have to be adapted in a non-DPO way. Also, the 1974 console is not the same as the earlier cars, so I would have to find a way to get everything to look right. But there would no longer be a need to deal with that PITA dash padding any longer. Any thoughts? Thank you, -William Sent from my iPhone From mvheim at sonic.net Wed Oct 27 11:01:54 2021 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2021 10:01:54 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Metal dash in a later car In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <31588197-6345-470F-BF57-716068D08363@sonic.net> Actually, I do not believe that it is a simple bolt-in. It can be done but requires modifications. I am sure someone knows the details. -- Max Heim '66 MGB > On Oct 27, 2021, at 8:56 AM, William Killeffer wrote: > > Hello everyone, > > My car is a 1974 CB roadster. A couple of years ago, I replaced the foam portion of the dashboard because it had several deep cracks in it, and was looking worse than shabby. My efforts to spiff it up weren?t satisfactory. So, I stripped off the old pad except for the firm foam that?s riveted to the metal dash plate and replaced it with a new dash pad. The instructions were pretty bad and the end result was a disappointment. I was so upset with it that I nearly sold the car just so I didn?t have to look at the disappointing dash anymore. I got over that, but am still not happy. One part of the problem is that the metal plate has some rust damage due to old leaks around the windshield. > > Now, someone is selling a nice looking metal dash out of an earlier car. In theory, it should fit in the same spot as a padded dash and attach to the car the same way, right? I know some of the wiring would be different and have to be adapted in a non-DPO way. Also, the 1974 console is not the same as the earlier cars, so I would have to find a way to get everything to look right. But there would no longer be a need to deal with that PITA dash padding any longer. > > Any thoughts? > > Thank you, > -William > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From thgun at comporium.net Fri Oct 29 07:00:42 2021 From: thgun at comporium.net (Thomas Gunderson) Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2021 09:00:42 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Front disk upgrade Message-ID: Has anyone used Ol Phartz Partz for disk brake kits? 1957 1500 MGA rst Sent from my iPhone X From dave at ranteer.com Fri Oct 29 10:36:19 2021 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2021 11:36:19 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] NW Import Parts Message-ID: <000401d7cce3$1a18e2c0$4e4aa840$@ranteer.com> Anyone ordered from them? Any issues? What's the consensus on the best place to get MGB parts? Moss quality just isn't there. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dcouncill at karamursel.org Fri Oct 29 11:05:01 2021 From: dcouncill at karamursel.org (David Councill) Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2021 10:05:01 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] NW Import Parts In-Reply-To: <000401d7cce3$1a18e2c0$4e4aa840$@ranteer.com> References: <000401d7cce3$1a18e2c0$4e4aa840$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <83cd2965-32b2-2737-97ca-6eb1dcd47a6d@karamursel.org> I order from them all the time and they are quick to ship. However, Moss quality relates to manufacturing. And so, whether you order from Moss or somewhere else, you are likely seeing parts from the same source. David Councill 67 BGT, 64 B, 72 B On 10/29/2021 9:36 AM, dave wrote: > > Anyone ordered from them?? Any issues? > > What?s the consensus on the best place to get MGB parts?? Moss quality > just isn?t there. > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lundgren at byu.net Fri Oct 29 11:06:05 2021 From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew Lundgren) Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2021 11:06:05 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] NW Import Parts In-Reply-To: <000401d7cce3$1a18e2c0$4e4aa840$@ranteer.com> References: <000401d7cce3$1a18e2c0$4e4aa840$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: I've used them several times over the years and had no problems. I bought a few mild grind performance cams and an AL cylinder head. There are only so many manufacturers for the parts in the world, so the quality will be the same for items that come from the same manufacturer.... Lots of places are also Moss resellers, so you will get the same quality on that too. I have seen Moss pull parts that are not good as well as issue warnings on products with poor quality. Have you contacted them with your issues? (There may be nothing that can be done...) On a side note, I recently picked up another roadster. This one is a 2001 Miata. I am disappointed at the lack of part availability for this 20 year old car. Makes me glad I can still get parts for my 2 MGBs. I don't know that when my Miata is fifty there will be any source for nearly everything on it, no matter what the quality is. (Though I probably won't be looking for parts for it in 30 years, one of my sons might have that challenge.) --- Andrew On Fri, Oct 29, 2021 at 10:47 AM dave wrote: > Anyone ordered from them? Any issues? > > > > What?s the consensus on the best place to get MGB parts? Moss quality > just isn?t there. > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lundgren at byu.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Oct 29 11:17:59 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2021 10:17:59 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] NW Import Parts In-Reply-To: <000401d7cce3$1a18e2c0$4e4aa840$@ranteer.com> References: <000401d7cce3$1a18e2c0$4e4aa840$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: They are local to me, but do not have pick up as an option, that said they support our hobby, show up to our local ABFM and source from the usual suspects. They wanted to charge me $9.00 to ship a $6.00 part. I bought it elsewhere with free shipping, not amazon. Ira Erbs Milwaukie,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Oct 29, 2021 at 9:46 AM dave wrote: > Anyone ordered from them? Any issues? > > > > What?s the consensus on the best place to get MGB parts? Moss quality > just isn?t there. > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Sun Oct 31 07:59:00 2021 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (h.duinhoven at planet.nl) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2021 14:59:00 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] NW Import Parts In-Reply-To: References: <000401d7cce3$1a18e2c0$4e4aa840$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <001701d7ce5f$75018d90$5f04a8b0$@planet.nl> That?s the problem with Japanese products. The products are so often altered, that specific parts will become NLA easier than for the good old British classics. I recently had this with a Japanese bicycle part of Shimano ? the front wheel alternator hub. It was not old, but parts are not obtainable. So I bought a 2nd hand hub and put all the spokes on that. Yes ? it takes some time, but the result still is working for some years now? Cheers, Hans Van: Mgs Namens Andrew Lundgren Verzonden: Friday, 29 October 2021 19:06 Aan: dave CC: mgs at autox.team.net Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] NW Import Parts I've used them several times over the years and had no problems. I bought a few mild grind performance cams and an AL cylinder head. There are only so many manufacturers for the parts in the world, so the quality will be the same for items that come from the same manufacturer.... Lots of places are also Moss resellers, so you will get the same quality on that too. I have seen Moss pull parts that are not good as well as issue warnings on products with poor quality. Have you contacted them with your issues? (There may be nothing that can be done...) On a side note, I recently picked up another roadster. This one is a 2001 Miata. I am disappointed at the lack of part availability for this 20 year old car. Makes me glad I can still get parts for my 2 MGBs. I don't know that when my Miata is fifty there will be any source for nearly everything on it, no matter what the quality is. (Though I probably won't be looking for parts for it in 30 years, one of my sons might have that challenge.) --- Andrew On Fri, Oct 29, 2021 at 10:47 AM dave > wrote: Anyone ordered from them? Any issues? What?s the consensus on the best place to get MGB parts? Moss quality just isn?t there. _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lundgren at byu.net -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: