From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Mon May  3 03:28:47 2021
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (h.duinhoven at planet.nl)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2021 11:28:47 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Mold
In-Reply-To: <004a01d73dd2$a6451250$f2cf36f0$@ranteer.com>
References: <F1349FEB-3C8E-45DE-BA75-45632573628E.ref@verizon.net>
 <F1349FEB-3C8E-45DE-BA75-45632573628E@verizon.net>
 <01f501d73c42$1266e400$3734ac00$@centurytel.net>
 <009401d73ceb$db28bc20$917a3460$@planet.nl>
 <41cb65ab-7e59-c7f6-1b03-768019893f58@bell.net>
 <000901d73d27$ed998880$c8cc9980$@planet.nl>
 <CAB65E70-299C-41A7-AF58-197F6ABBC7A3@sonic.net>
 <004a01d73dd2$a6451250$f2cf36f0$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <000001d73ffe$b85c2a90$29147fb0$@planet.nl>

LOL Dave!

 

Van: Mgs <mgs-bounces at autox.team.net> Namens dave
Verzonden: vrijdag 30 april 2021 17:08
Aan: 'mglist' <mgs at autox.team.net>
Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Mold

 

Years ago it was deemed incorrect to use rice in weddings because the birds would eat it, the rice would expand, and the birds would explode.  Would this not also happen to mice?  In which case we should spread it everywhere???

 

From: Mgs <mgs-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Max Heim
Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2021 1:53 PM
To: mglist <mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:mgs at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Mold

 

Also feeds mice very well?

 

--

Max Heim

'66 MGB

 

On Apr 29, 2021, at 11:46 AM, <h.duinhoven at planet.nl <mailto:h.duinhoven at planet.nl> > <h.duinhoven at planet.nl <mailto:h.duinhoven at planet.nl> > wrote:

 

Rice absorbs moist very well!

 

Cheers,

Hans

 

Van: Mgs <mgs-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net> > Namens Barrie Robinson
Verzonden: donderdag 29 april 2021 17:30
Aan: mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:mgs at autox.team.net> 
Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Mold

 

Absolutely - together with 2lbs of ham, a large cheese, peeled grapes and a partridge in a pear tree.    To say nothing of a set of books, preferably Dickens!   (well hell they must have something to read).   But seriously if rice is your direction then it should be nasi biryani.

I must stop wearing this clown's hat!

Cheers
Barrie



On 4/29/2021 7:36 AM, h.duinhoven at planet.nl <mailto:h.duinhoven at planet.nl>  wrote:

Have a bag full of rice placed in the car before have it hibernating. 
 
Funny Frank asked this. Frank and I have met in 2000, when I went to Boston.
http://www.ttalk.info/Tech/hans_across_the_water.htm 
 
Cheers, Hans 
71 BGT
 
-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: Mgs  <mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net> <mgs-bounces at autox.team.net> Namens David F. Darby
Verzonden: woensdag 28 april 2021 17:21
Aan: 'Frank Krajewski'  <mailto:frankk12 at verizon.net> <frankk12 at verizon.net>; Mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net> 
Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Mold
 
Ventilation and maybe a dehumidifier.
 
David
 

-----Original Message-----
From: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank 
Krajewski
Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 2021 10:12 AM
To: Mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net> 
Subject: [Mgs] Mold
 
I keep my 1980 MGB LE stored and covered in my sop from about late 
September to now. I live in Rhode island and can?t risk driving it 
until the rain has washed away all the salt on the roads. This year I 
took it to Bassett?s Jaguar, just down the road from me as I know Bill 
Bassett and he has helped me out in the past. It needed some minor 
work which he was going to do. Bill called me later tat day and said 
he couldn?t touch the car due to extensive mold everywhere.  Since 
then I have embarked on an extensive mold removal effort using white 
vinegar and several commercially available products. Is there 
something more I should be doing and is there some way to prevent this 
from happening in the future other than leaving the car uncovered? I 
am even having it professionally detailed next week. The detailer promised to thoroughly clean and demold  the car.
Frank Krajewski
1980 MGBLE
1991 Miata LE
 
 
Sent from my iPad.
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From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Mon May  3 03:30:58 2021
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (h.duinhoven at planet.nl)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2021 11:30:58 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Ride height
Message-ID: <000501d73fff$0613f2e0$123bd8a0$@planet.nl>

Is there info about the ride height of an MK2 1971 MGB GT?

What distance is the centre of each wheel to the top of the wheel arch?

 

TIA.

 

Cheers,

Hans



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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Mon May  3 04:42:18 2021
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2021 11:42:18 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Ride height
References: <000501d73fff$0613f2e0$123bd8a0$@planet.nl>
Message-ID: <60C97754093B459FA728274E18E185F2@paul>

Have a look at http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/suspensiontext.htm#height

CB is  typically around 14-14.5" from the centre of the wheel hub to the underside of the bright trim strip.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message ----- 


  Is there info about the ride height of an MK2 1971 MGB GT?

  What distance is the centre of each wheel to the top of the wheel arch?
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From paul at ece.rochester.edu  Mon May  3 04:54:41 2021
From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Osborne, Paul)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2021 10:54:41 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] [EXT]  Ride height
In-Reply-To: <000501d73fff$0613f2e0$123bd8a0$@planet.nl>
References: <000501d73fff$0613f2e0$123bd8a0$@planet.nl>
Message-ID: <6914E41B-7459-435E-9390-9BCCCFB4F292@ur.rochester.edu>

Has,

I own an early 74 BGT chrome bumper, but have never seen any info on that. Be glad to measure it if you like.

Paul

Paul Osborne
Department of Electrical and Computer Eng
University of Rochester
201 Hopeman Building RC
Rochester NY 14627

   585-275-5226



On May 3, 2021, at 5:30 AM, h.duinhoven at planet.nl<mailto:h.duinhoven at planet.nl> wrote:

Is there info about the ride height of an MK2 1971 MGB GT?
What distance is the centre of each wheel to the top of the wheel arch?

TIA.

Cheers,
Hans

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From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Mon May  3 05:46:32 2021
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (h.duinhoven at planet.nl)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2021 13:46:32 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] [EXT]  Ride height
In-Reply-To: <6914E41B-7459-435E-9390-9BCCCFB4F292@ur.rochester.edu>
References: <000501d73fff$0613f2e0$123bd8a0$@planet.nl>
 <6914E41B-7459-435E-9390-9BCCCFB4F292@ur.rochester.edu>
Message-ID: <002501d74011$f6e60390$e4b20ab0$@planet.nl>

Yes please Paul.

 

If possible in centimetres, rather than inches.

 

Hans

 

Van: Mgs <mgs-bounces at autox.team.net> Namens Osborne, Paul
Verzonden: maandag 3 mei 2021 12:55
Aan: h.duinhoven at planet.nl
CC: mgs at autox.team.net
Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] [EXT] Ride height

 

Has,  

 

I own an early 74 BGT chrome bumper, but have never seen any info on that.
Be glad to measure it if you like. 

 

Paul

 

Paul Osborne
Department of Electrical and Computer Eng
University of Rochester 
201 Hopeman Building RC
Rochester NY 14627

   585-275-5226

 

 





On May 3, 2021, at 5:30 AM, h.duinhoven at planet.nl
<mailto:h.duinhoven at planet.nl>  wrote:

 

Is there info about the ride height of an MK2 1971 MGB GT?

What distance is the centre of each wheel to the top of the wheel arch?

 

TIA.

 

Cheers,

Hans

 


 
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From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Mon May  3 05:53:29 2021
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (h.duinhoven at planet.nl)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2021 13:53:29 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Ride height
In-Reply-To: <60C97754093B459FA728274E18E185F2@paul>
References: <000501d73fff$0613f2e0$123bd8a0$@planet.nl>
 <60C97754093B459FA728274E18E185F2@paul>
Message-ID: <002a01d74012$ef2669a0$cd733ce0$@planet.nl>

Thanks Paul,

 

Do springs (leaf springs especially) tend to sag is decades?

 

Hans

 

Van: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com> 
Verzonden: maandag 3 mei 2021 12:42
Aan: h.duinhoven at planet.nl; mgs at autox.team.net
Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Ride height

 

Have a look at http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/suspensiontext.htm#height

 

CB is  typically around 14-14.5" from the centre of the wheel hub to the
underside of the bright trim strip.

 

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 

 

Is there info about the ride height of an MK2 1971 MGB GT?

What distance is the centre of each wheel to the top of the wheel arch?



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From mgbobh at gmail.com  Mon May  3 06:04:17 2021
From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2021 08:04:17 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Ride height
In-Reply-To: <002a01d74012$ef2669a0$cd733ce0$@planet.nl>
References: <000501d73fff$0613f2e0$123bd8a0$@planet.nl>
 <60C97754093B459FA728274E18E185F2@paul>
 <002a01d74012$ef2669a0$cd733ce0$@planet.nl>
Message-ID: <3DB8B412-2EE7-46B2-BA78-12D3AC643503@gmail.com>

     Yes, the springs do sag over time, the leaf springs more visibly sagging than the front coils.  
     Some years back, my GT?s rear springs were too sagged to tolerate. I bought new, from the large supplier in California.  The car was raised, not unlike the off-road cars one sees.  At a spring rebuild shop, one that had not dealt with little car springs in years, the owner, who was a former MGB owner, advised me to remove the bottom leaf, about four inches long, and the second leaf, possibly 12-14 inches.  I did, but the rear was still up.  He then told me that front coils sag too. I installed new front springs and finally got the ride height about right.
     This discussion causes me to think I should go measure all the corners again.  It has been many years and many miles.
Bob


> On May 3, 2021, at 7:53 AM, <h.duinhoven at planet.nl> <h.duinhoven at planet.nl> wrote:
> 
> Thanks Paul,
>  
> Do springs (leaf springs especially) tend to sag is decades?
>  
> Hans
>  
> Van: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com> 
> Verzonden: maandag 3 mei 2021 12:42
> Aan: h.duinhoven at planet.nl; mgs at autox.team.net
> Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Ride height
>  
> Have a look at http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/suspensiontext.htm#height
>  
> CB is  typically around 14-14.5" from the centre of the wheel hub to the underside of the bright trim strip.
>  
> PaulH.
> ----- Original Message -----
>  
> Is there info about the ride height of an MK2 1971 MGB GT?
> What distance is the centre of each wheel to the top of the wheel arch?
> 
> 	Virusvrij. www.avast.com
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com
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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Mon May  3 06:25:41 2021
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2021 13:25:41 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Ride height
References: <000501d73fff$0613f2e0$123bd8a0$@planet.nl>
 <60C97754093B459FA728274E18E185F2@paul>
 <002a01d74012$ef2669a0$cd733ce0$@planet.nl>
Message-ID: <704A89C4A86D4C8781D0B4B1F6C04F21@paul>

Depends what load they are asked to carry!  The factory only allowed for 150lb per person, I wonder how many of us are that weight these days.

When I got my roadster I wondered if the springs had sagged as they were almost 'flat' with the car on the ground, replaced them and the new ones were almost the same.  30 years later no change, that's on a chrome bumper.  They were OEM springs which have not been available for many years, first people in America and later here started talking about how much new springs jacked up the rear, to the extent that they had to put loads of weight in the boot to compress them enough to get the rebound straps fastened, which is completely wrong.  rubber bumper springs are harder to carry the extra weight, and V8 springs harder still and they do have a curve with the car on its wheels, but I have never had to weight down the back to get new springs fitted to CB, RB or V8.

The lower the car the better the handling, it's only a problem if the exhaust grounds and the suspension bottoms over typical road surfaces.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message ----- 
   
  Do springs (leaf springs especially) tend to sag is decades?


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From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Mon May  3 09:11:55 2021
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (h.duinhoven at planet.nl)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2021 17:11:55 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Ride height
In-Reply-To: <704A89C4A86D4C8781D0B4B1F6C04F21@paul>
References: <000501d73fff$0613f2e0$123bd8a0$@planet.nl>
 <60C97754093B459FA728274E18E185F2@paul>
 <002a01d74012$ef2669a0$cd733ce0$@planet.nl>
 <704A89C4A86D4C8781D0B4B1F6C04F21@paul>
Message-ID: <000001d7402e$a8001550$f8003ff0$@planet.nl>

Good information from you and Robert - thank you.

 

Now the story.

In the past my exhaust hit the speed bumps so often, that I did not consider
a stainless exhaust because of the cost to replace. In the years I owned the
GT the problem became worse.

During my holiday trip to England in 2011 the exhaust severely was damaged
by hitting a speed bump, when I turned on a parking spot at a hilltop of the
Peak District - see picture below.



At the end of the trip the exhaust support bracket broke of and I had to
make a temp fix, before driving onto the ferry. 

 

3 years ago I got an MOT safety test fail on the sagged rear springs, so
these were replaced.

>From that moment on the car looks a bit like a dragster with the rear higher
than the front.

 

So I should look for replacement front coils.

During the restoration job I have done the front suspension job before, so
that is not a problem.

 

P.S. U.S. lister may notice the Cape Cod Car Club emblem at the hatch
handle.

That was a gift I got from a nice lister visiting the Boston area in 2000.

 

Cheers,

Hans

 

 

Van: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com> 
Verzonden: maandag 3 mei 2021 14:26
Aan: h.duinhoven at planet.nl; mgs at autox.team.net
Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Ride height

 

Depends what load they are asked to carry!  The factory only allowed for
150lb per person, I wonder how many of us are that weight these days.

 

When I got my roadster I wondered if the springs had sagged as they were
almost 'flat' with the car on the ground, replaced them and the new ones
were almost the same.  30 years later no change, that's on a chrome bumper.
They were OEM springs which have not been available for many years, first
people in America and later here started talking about how much new springs
jacked up the rear, to the extent that they had to put loads of weight in
the boot to compress them enough to get the rebound straps fastened, which
is completely wrong.  rubber bumper springs are harder to carry the extra
weight, and V8 springs harder still and they do have a curve with the car on
its wheels, but I have never had to weight down the back to get new springs
fitted to CB, RB or V8.

 

The lower the car the better the handling, it's only a problem if the
exhaust grounds and the suspension bottoms over typical road surfaces.

 

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 

 

Do springs (leaf springs especially) tend to sag is decades?

 



-- 
Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Mon May  3 09:24:28 2021
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2021 16:24:28 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Ride height
References: <000501d73fff$0613f2e0$123bd8a0$@planet.nl>
 <60C97754093B459FA728274E18E185F2@paul>
 <002a01d74012$ef2669a0$cd733ce0$@planet.nl>
 <704A89C4A86D4C8781D0B4B1F6C04F21@paul>
 <000001d7402e$a8001550$f8003ff0$@planet.nl>
Message-ID: <AD71E05156CE40F39C0DAE6FEFEE1036@paul>

The high rear end after spring replacement is common and is part of the 'too hard' thing needing extra weight in the boot to get the rebound straps fastened.

Personally I wouldn't jack up the front to match the rear, people spend inordinate amounts of time and money trying to lower MGBs!  What you could try is lowering 'blocks' between the axle and the springs, as used with parabolic springs, but may need longer U-bolts.

Even with new OEM rears my CB roadster was too low when fully laden, bottoming and grounding in country lanes, I ended up extending the rear shackles.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  3 years ago I got an MOT safety test fail on the sagged rear springs, so these were replaced.
  From that moment on the car looks a bit like a dragster with the rear higher than the front.

   

  So I should look for replacement front coils.


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From mgbobh at gmail.com  Mon May  3 09:43:44 2021
From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2021 11:43:44 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Ride height
In-Reply-To: <AD71E05156CE40F39C0DAE6FEFEE1036@paul>
References: <000501d73fff$0613f2e0$123bd8a0$@planet.nl>
 <60C97754093B459FA728274E18E185F2@paul>
 <002a01d74012$ef2669a0$cd733ce0$@planet.nl>
 <704A89C4A86D4C8781D0B4B1F6C04F21@paul>
 <000001d7402e$a8001550$f8003ff0$@planet.nl>
 <AD71E05156CE40F39C0DAE6FEFEE1036@paul>
Message-ID: <AD8D87E1-B151-4022-B069-398CA0D75744@gmail.com>

    I was pleased with the results after the spring company suggested I remove a couple of leaves from the new rear springs.    The owner of the shop knew the original height of front springs, as measured by the horizontal trim strip, and my front was low too, though it was not down as much as the rear.  
   Two spring companies I have talked with about this told me that they do not work with automobile springs any more, and that after-market spring quality is quite variable.  Spring shops around here work with commercial vehicles. 
   One can make small lowering blocks, 1/2? thick, from the poly-plastic cutting boards sold in kitchen sundry department at Wal-Mart.  
Bob


> On May 3, 2021, at 11:24 AM, PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com> wrote:
> 
> The high rear end after spring replacement is common and is part of the 'too hard' thing needing extra weight in the boot to get the rebound straps fastened.
>  
> Personally I wouldn't jack up the front to match the rear, people spend inordinate amounts of time and money trying to lower MGBs!  What you could try is lowering 'blocks' between the axle and the springs, as used with parabolic springs, but may need longer U-bolts.
>  
> Even with new OEM rears my CB roadster was too low when fully laden, bottoming and grounding in country lanes, I ended up extending the rear shackles.
>  
> PaulH.
> ----- Original Message -----
> 3 years ago I got an MOT safety test fail on the sagged rear springs, so these were replaced.
> From that moment on the car looks a bit like a dragster with the rear higher than the front.
>  
> So I should look for replacement front coils.
>  
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com
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From barrob at bell.net  Mon May  3 14:06:17 2021
From: barrob at bell.net (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2021 16:06:17 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Ride height
In-Reply-To: <AD71E05156CE40F39C0DAE6FEFEE1036@paul>
References: <000501d73fff$0613f2e0$123bd8a0$@planet.nl>
 <60C97754093B459FA728274E18E185F2@paul>
 <002a01d74012$ef2669a0$cd733ce0$@planet.nl>
 <704A89C4A86D4C8781D0B4B1F6C04F21@paul>
 <000001d7402e$a8001550$f8003ff0$@planet.nl>
 <AD71E05156CE40F39C0DAE6FEFEE1036@paul>
Message-ID: <32e3e08a-5a4a-bc03-be74-230722ece770@bell.net>

Hello Paul,

I got my local Brit car shop to fit springs all round as I had a serious 
case of unequal saggynitis.?? They got them from Moss and all is 
perfectly fine now.

Cheers
Barrie

On 5/3/2021 11:24 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
> The high rear end after spring replacement is common and is part of 
> the 'too hard' thing needing extra weight in the boot to get the 
> rebound straps fastened.
> Personally I wouldn't jack up the front to match the rear, people 
> spend inordinate amounts of time and money trying to lower MGBs!? What 
> you could try is lowering?'blocks' between the axle and the springs, 
> as used?with parabolic springs, but may need longer U-bolts.
> Even with new OEM rears my CB roadster was too low when fully laden, 
> bottoming and grounding in country lanes, I ended up extending the 
> rear shackles.
> PaulH.
>
>     ----- Original Message -----
>     3 years ago I got an MOT safety test fail on the sagged rear
>     springs, so these were replaced.
>
>     From that moment on the car looks a bit like a dragster with the
>     rear higher than the front.
>
>     So I should look for replacement front coils.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrob at bell.net

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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Tue May  4 01:32:13 2021
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2021 08:32:13 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Ride height
References: <000501d73fff$0613f2e0$123bd8a0$@planet.nl>
 <60C97754093B459FA728274E18E185F2@paul>
 <002a01d74012$ef2669a0$cd733ce0$@planet.nl>
 <704A89C4A86D4C8781D0B4B1F6C04F21@paul>
 <000001d7402e$a8001550$f8003ff0$@planet.nl>
 <AD71E05156CE40F39C0DAE6FEFEE1036@paul>
 <AD8D87E1-B151-4022-B069-398CA0D75744@gmail.com>
 <20210503180920.db8IltUneliJZdb8Jlc0dF@mx3.tb.ukmail.iss.as9143.net>
Message-ID: <E77E3CE7EBCD4BA8BAD37D8D2249A422@paul>

The lower mounting point for the rebound strap on an MGB (the car that was the subject of the original enquiry) is on the axle.  So when you fit lowering blocks the body becomes lower relative to the axle and the rebound straps become slacker not more taut.  The bump rubber on the body is now also closer to the pedestal on the axle, so the damper can't be 'compressed' any more than it was before.  And with the same straps the damper can't be extended any more than previously either.

Incorrect springs that give a very raised ride height may well cause the problem of picking up a rear tyre in a fast turn, but lowering blocks will reduce or eliminate that.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 


  Lowering blocks raise the rear axle in relation to the springs, but do not change the spring height in relation to the body or chassis frame.  You can correct the ride height that way, but it will not correct the gross misalignment for the rebound straps (which are attached to the lower spring mounting plate).

  If the rebould straps are close to taught when at rest, they you will be royally screwed on handling when driving.  It will pick a rear tire completely off the ground in a fast turn, causing severe oversteer (very dangerous condition).  And if you install longer rebound straps, you will get damage to the lever arm shocks from overtravel.

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From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Tue May  4 07:42:34 2021
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Tue, 04 May 2021 09:42:34 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Ride height
In-Reply-To: <E77E3CE7EBCD4BA8BAD37D8D2249A422@paul>
References: <000501d73fff$0613f2e0$123bd8a0$@planet.nl>
 <60C97754093B459FA728274E18E185F2@paul>
 <002a01d74012$ef2669a0$cd733ce0$@planet.nl>
 <704A89C4A86D4C8781D0B4B1F6C04F21@paul>
 <000001d7402e$a8001550$f8003ff0$@planet.nl>
 <AD71E05156CE40F39C0DAE6FEFEE1036@paul>
 <AD8D87E1-B151-4022-B069-398CA0D75744@gmail.com>
 <20210503180920.db8IltUneliJZdb8Jlc0dF@mx3.tb.ukmail.iss.as9143.net>
 <E77E3CE7EBCD4BA8BAD37D8D2249A422@paul>
Message-ID: <mailman.64.1620135763.2736.mgs@autox.team.net>

Yeah, good point.  Sorry about the slip up.  I forgot the lower pin 
for the rebound strap is on the axle housing.

Still no excuse for new replacement springs being manufactured with 
too much arch (and too high spring rate).  Theory of a leaf spring is 
that when fully loaded it should be straight, flat, no arch.  This 
gives it the highest lateral stiffness and least tendency to twist 
and misalign the springs and axle in hard cornering.  It just rubs me 
the wrong way to have to jury rig an perfectly good assembly to 
accommodate use of a faulty replacement part.


At 03:32 AM 5/4/2021, PaulHunt73 wrote:
>The lower mounting point for the rebound strap on an MGB (the car 
>that was the subject of the original enquiry) is on the axle.  So 
>when you fit lowering blocks the body becomes lower relative to the 
>axle and the rebound straps become slacker not more taut.  The bump 
>rubber on the body is now also closer to the pedestal on the axle, 
>so the damper can't be 'compressed' any more than it was 
>before.  And with the same straps the damper can't be extended any 
>more than previously either.
>
>Incorrect springs that give a very raised ride height may well cause 
>the problem of picking up a rear tyre in a fast turn, but lowering 
>blocks will reduce or eliminate that.
>
>PaulH.


>----- Original Message -----
>Lowering blocks raise the rear axle in relation to the springs, but 
>do not change the spring height in relation to the body or chassis 
>frame.  You can correct the ride height that way, but it will not 
>correct the gross misalignment for the rebound straps (which are 
>attached to the lower spring mounting plate).
>
>If the rebould straps are close to taught when at rest, they you 
>will be royally screwed on handling when driving.  It will pick a 
>rear tire completely off the ground in a fast turn, causing severe 
>oversteer (very dangerous condition).  And if you install longer 
>rebound straps, you will get damage to the lever arm shocks from overtravel.
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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Tue May  4 07:55:01 2021
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2021 14:55:01 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Ride height
References: <000501d73fff$0613f2e0$123bd8a0$@planet.nl>
 <60C97754093B459FA728274E18E185F2@paul>
 <002a01d74012$ef2669a0$cd733ce0$@planet.nl>
 <704A89C4A86D4C8781D0B4B1F6C04F21@paul>
 <000001d7402e$a8001550$f8003ff0$@planet.nl>
 <AD71E05156CE40F39C0DAE6FEFEE1036@paul>
 <AD8D87E1-B151-4022-B069-398CA0D75744@gmail.com>
 <20210503180920.db8IltUneliJZdb8Jlc0dF@mx3.tb.ukmail.iss.as9143.net>
 <E77E3CE7EBCD4BA8BAD37D8D2249A422@paul>
 <20210504154301.dvKGlcPitwH1WdvKHlLKOt@mx11.tb.ukmail.iss.as9143.net>
Message-ID: <A7118596879B4FC38E1FBBA19DBBBE22@paul>

Amen to that!
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  Still no excuse for new replacement springs being manufactured with too much arch (and too high spring rate).  Theory of a leaf spring is that when fully loaded it should be straight, flat, no arch.  This gives it the highest lateral stiffness and least tendency to twist and misalign the springs and axle in hard cornering.  It just rubs me the wrong way to have to jury rig an perfectly good assembly to accommodate use of a faulty replacement part.

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From jmartiniii at yahoo.com  Tue May  4 14:22:46 2021
From: jmartiniii at yahoo.com (Joel Martin)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2021 20:22:46 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 168, Issue 3
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2.1620151201.15177.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2.1620151201.15177.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <530119625.263230.1620159766191@mail.yahoo.com>

 Moss rear springs lasted about 60K miles. ?Got a pair from buddy on a car with only 55K miles a few years ago. ?Back to normal. ?I have about 235K miles on car. ?Find someone to make or rear arch your original springs.
?The stuff today is just junk.
    On Tuesday, May 4, 2021, 02:01:32 PM EDT, mgs-request at autox.team.net <mgs-request at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 Send Mgs mailing list submissions to
??? mgs at autox.team.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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Forums: http://www.team.net/forums

Today's Topics:

? 1. Re: Ride height (Barrie Robinson)
? 2. Re: Ride height (PaulHunt73)
? 3. Re: Ride height (Barney Gaylord)
? 4. Re: Ride height (PaulHunt73)
  Hello Paul,
 
 I got my local Brit car shop to fit springs all round as I had a serious case of unequal saggynitis.?? They got them from Moss and all is perfectly fine now.
 
 Cheers
 Barrie
 
 On 5/3/2021 11:24 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
  
 The high rear end after spring replacement is common and is part of the 'too hard' thing needing extra weight in the boot to get the rebound straps fastened. ? Personally I wouldn't jack up the front to match the rear, people spend inordinate amounts of time and money trying to lower MGBs!? What you could try is lowering?'blocks' between the axle and the springs, as used?with parabolic springs, but may need longer U-bolts. ? Even with new OEM rears my CB roadster was too low when fully laden, bottoming and grounding in country lanes, I ended up extending the rear shackles. ? PaulH. 
 ----- Original Message -----  3 years ago I got an MOT safety test fail on the sagged rear springs, so these were replaced.  
>From that moment on the car looks a bit like a dragster with the rear higher than the front.
 
 ?
 
So I should look for replacement front coils.
 
?
  
 
  _______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrob at bell.net
 
 
  The lower mounting point for the rebound strap on?an MGB (the car that was the subject of the original enquiry) is on the axle.? So when you?fit lowering blocks the body becomes lower relative to the axle and?the rebound straps become slacker not more taut.? The bump rubber on the body is now also?closer to the pedestal on the axle, so the damper can't be 'compressed' any more than it was before.? And with the same straps?the damper?can't be extended any more?than previously either.?Incorrect springs that give a very raised ride height may well cause the problem of picking up a rear tyre in a fast turn, but lowering blocks will reduce or eliminate that.?PaulH.?----- Original Message ----- 
 
Lowering blocks raise the rear axle in relation to the springs, but do not change the spring height in relation to the body or chassis frame.? You can correct the ride height that way, but it will not correct the gross misalignment for the rebound straps (which are attached to the lower spring mounting plate).

If the rebould straps are close to taught when at rest, they you will be royally screwed on handling when driving.? It will pick a rear tire completely off the ground in a fast turn, causing severe oversteer (very dangerous condition).? And if you install longer rebound straps, you will get damage to the lever arm shocks from overtravel.
 
 
    
      - ?



Yeah, good point.? Sorry about the slip up.? Iforgot the lower pin for the rebound strap is on the axlehousing.

Still no excuse for new replacement springs being manufactured with toomuch arch (and too high spring rate).? Theory of a leaf spring isthat when fully loaded it should be straight, flat, no arch.? Thisgives it the highest lateral stiffness and least tendency to twist andmisalign the springs and axle in hard cornering.? It just rubs methe wrong way to have to jury rig an perfectly good assembly toaccommodate use of a faulty replacement part.


At 03:32 AM 5/4/2021, PaulHunt73 wrote:

The lowermounting point for the rebound strap on an MGB (the car that was thesubject of the original enquiry) is on the axle.? So when you fitlowering blocks the body becomes lower relative to the axle and therebound straps become slacker not more taut.? The bump rubber on thebody is now also closer to the pedestal on the axle, so the damper can'tbe 'compressed' any more than it was before.? And with the samestraps the damper can't be extended any more than previously either.
?
Incorrect springs that give a very raised ride heightmay well cause the problem of picking up a rear tyre in a fast turn, butlowering blocks will reduce or eliminate that.
?
PaulH.



----- OriginalMessage ----- 
   
      - Lowering blocks raise the rear axle in relation to the springs, butdo not change the spring height in relation to the body or chassisframe.? You can correct the ride height that way, but it will notcorrect the gross misalignment for the rebound straps (which are attachedto the lower spring mounting plate).   
   

      - If the rebould straps are close to taught when at rest, they you willbe royally screwed on handling when driving.? It will pick a reartire completely off the ground in a fast turn, causing severe oversteer(very dangerous condition).? And if you install longer reboundstraps, you will get damage to the lever arm shocks from overtravel.

 Amen to that!
 ----- Original Message ----- Still no excuse for new replacement springs being manufactured with too much arch (and too high spring rate).? Theory of a leaf spring is that when fully loaded it should be straight, flat, no arch.? This gives it the highest lateral stiffness and least tendency to twist and misalign the springs and axle in hard cornering.? It just rubs me the wrong way to have to jury rig an perfectly good assembly to accommodate use of a faulty replacement part.
 
    
      - ?


_______________________________________________
Mgs mailing list
Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
  
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From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Mon May  3 10:07:53 2021
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Mon, 03 May 2021 12:07:53 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Ride height
In-Reply-To: <AD8D87E1-B151-4022-B069-398CA0D75744@gmail.com>
References: <000501d73fff$0613f2e0$123bd8a0$@planet.nl>
 <60C97754093B459FA728274E18E185F2@paul>
 <002a01d74012$ef2669a0$cd733ce0$@planet.nl>
 <704A89C4A86D4C8781D0B4B1F6C04F21@paul>
 <000001d7402e$a8001550$f8003ff0$@planet.nl>
 <AD71E05156CE40F39C0DAE6FEFEE1036@paul>
 <AD8D87E1-B151-4022-B069-398CA0D75744@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.65.1620193484.2736.mgs@autox.team.net>

Lowering blocks raise the rear axle in relation 
to the springs, but do not change the spring 
height in relation to the body or chassis 
frame.  You can correct the ride height that way, 
but it will not correct the gross misalignment 
for the rebound straps (which are attached to the lower spring mounting plate).

If the rebould straps are close to taught when at 
rest, they you will be royally screwed on 
handling when driving.  It will pick a rear tire 
completely off the ground in a fast turn, causing 
severe oversteer (very dangerous condition).  And 
if you install longer rebound straps, you will 
get damage to the lever arm shocks from overtravel.


At 11:43 AM 5/3/2021, Robert's New iPad wrote:
>     I was pleased with the results after the 
> spring company suggested I remove a couple of 
> leaves from the new rear springs.    The owner 
> of the shop knew the original height of front 
> springs, as measured by the horizontal trim 
> strip, and my front was low too, though it was not down as much as the rear.
>    Two spring companies I have talked with 
> about this told me that they do not work with 
> automobile springs any more, and that 
> after-market spring quality is quite 
> variable.  Spring shops around here work with commercial vehicles.
>    One can make small lowering blocks, 1/2??? 
> thick, from the poly-plastic cutting boards 
> sold in kitchen sundry department at Wal-Mart.
>Bob


>On May 3, 2021, at 11:24 AM, PaulHunt73 
><<mailto:paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com> wrote:
>
>>The high rear end after spring replacement is 
>>common and is part of the 'too hard' thing 
>>needing extra weight in the boot to get the rebound straps fastened.
>>
>>Personally I wouldn't jack up the front to 
>>match the rear, people spend inordinate amounts 
>>of time and money trying to lower MGBs!  What 
>>you could try is lowering 'blocks' between the 
>>axle and the springs, as used with parabolic 
>>springs, but may need longer U-bolts.
>>
>>Even with new OEM rears my CB roadster was too 
>>low when fully laden, bottoming and grounding 
>>in country lanes, I ended up extending the rear shackles.
>>
>>PaulH.


>>----- Original Message -----
>>3 years ago I got an MOT safety test fail on 
>>the sagged rear springs, so these were replaced.
>>
>> From that moment on the car looks a bit like a 
>> dragster with the rear higher than the front.
>>
>>So I should look for replacement front coils.
>>....
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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Wed May  5 03:28:56 2021
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Wed, 5 May 2021 10:28:56 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Ride height
References: <000501d73fff$0613f2e0$123bd8a0$@planet.nl>
 <60C97754093B459FA728274E18E185F2@paul>
 <002a01d74012$ef2669a0$cd733ce0$@planet.nl>
 <704A89C4A86D4C8781D0B4B1F6C04F21@paul>
 <000001d7402e$a8001550$f8003ff0$@planet.nl>
 <AD71E05156CE40F39C0DAE6FEFEE1036@paul>
 <AD8D87E1-B151-4022-B069-398CA0D75744@gmail.com>
 <20210503180920.db8IltUneliJZdb8Jlc0dF@mx3.tb.ukmail.iss.as9143.net>
 <E77E3CE7EBCD4BA8BAD37D8D2249A422@paul>
 <20210504154301.dvKGlcPitwH1WdvKHlLKOt@mx11.tb.ukmail.iss.as9143.net>
Message-ID: <AF7EEA78C83848308B7276B6FEE6901C@paul>

Funny how things suddenly come to mind when you are doing something completely different.

Whilst the rebound strap is on the axle the damper mount IS below the spring.  If you fit 1" (say) lowering blocks between the axle and the spring, positioning the axle closer to the body (and so lowering the ride height), then the axle can move 1" further down before the STANDARD rebound strap stops it, hence the damper mounting plate has moved 1" further down than normal.  It's this that could result in the damper hitting its lower limit before the rebound strap stops the axle.  

I think!

Easy enough to check - when the strap is carrying the weight of the axle it should twang like a bow-string, and there should be a little more downward movement of the damper mounting plate below the spring.  If not, then shorter webbing straps can be made up in the US and the UK, or it may be possible to 'shorten' one with some kind of clamp that puts a tight curve in it under tension instead of being straight.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Barney Gaylord 
  To: PaulHunt73 
  Cc: mgs at autox.team.net 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2021 2:42 PM
  Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ride height


  Yeah, good point.  Sorry about the slip up.  I forgot the lower pin for the rebound strap is on the axle housing.

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From weberstevej at aol.com  Wed May  5 17:24:56 2021
From: weberstevej at aol.com (Steve Weber)
Date: Wed, 5 May 2021 19:24:56 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 168, Issue 4
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1620237603.1777.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1620237603.1777.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <FC0B7626-DEBF-4005-9E67-57DC186EE71E@aol.com>

My MGA rebuild resulted in acquiring new rear leaf springs from Moss Motors, which turned out to be over arched. I took the over-arch out using a hydraulic press making small adjustments every three or so inches over the length of the spring. Been driving the car over ten years now at the correct ride height.


> On May 5, 2021, at 4:30 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> 
> ?Send Mgs mailing list submissions to
>    mgs at autox.team.net
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>    mgs-request at autox.team.net
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>    mgs-owner at autox.team.net
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Mgs digest..."
> 
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> 
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re: Mgs Digest, Vol 168, Issue 3 (Joel Martin)
>   2. Re: Ride height (Barney Gaylord)
>   3. Re: Ride height (PaulHunt73)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 4 May 2021 20:22:46 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Joel Martin <jmartiniii at yahoo.com>
> To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 168, Issue 3
> Message-ID: <530119625.263230.1620159766191 at mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Moss rear springs lasted about 60K miles. ?Got a pair from buddy on a car with only 55K miles a few years ago. ?Back to normal. ?I have about 235K miles on car. ?Find someone to make or rear arch your original springs.
> ?The stuff today is just junk.
>    On Tuesday, May 4, 2021, 02:01:32 PM EDT, mgs-request at autox.team.net <mgs-request at autox.team.net> wrote:  
> 
> Send Mgs mailing list submissions to
> ??? mgs at autox.team.net
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> ??? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> ??? mgs-request at autox.team.net
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> ??? mgs-owner at autox.team.net
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Mgs digest..."
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
> ? 1. Re: Ride height (Barrie Robinson)
> ? 2. Re: Ride height (PaulHunt73)
> ? 3. Re: Ride height (Barney Gaylord)
> ? 4. Re: Ride height (PaulHunt73)
>  Hello Paul,
> 
> I got my local Brit car shop to fit springs all round as I had a serious case of unequal saggynitis.?? They got them from Moss and all is perfectly fine now.
> 
> Cheers
> Barrie
> 
>> On 5/3/2021 11:24 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
>> 
>> The high rear end after spring replacement is common and is part of the 'too hard' thing needing extra weight in the boot to get the rebound straps fastened. ? Personally I wouldn't jack up the front to match the rear, people spend inordinate amounts of time and money trying to lower MGBs!? What you could try is lowering?'blocks' between the axle and the springs, as used?with parabolic springs, but may need longer U-bolts. ? Even with new OEM rears my CB roadster was too low when fully laden, bottoming and grounding in country lanes, I ended up extending the rear shackles. ? PaulH. 
>> ----- Original Message -----  3 years ago I got an MOT safety test fail on the sagged rear springs, so these were replaced.  
>>> From that moment on the car looks a bit like a dragster with the rear higher than the front.
>> 
>> ?
>> 
>> So I should look for replacement front coils.
>> 
>> ?
>> 
>> 
>>  _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrob at bell.net
>> 
>> 
>>  The lower mounting point for the rebound strap on?an MGB (the car that was the subject of the original enquiry) is on the axle.? So when you?fit lowering blocks the body becomes lower relative to the axle and?the rebound straps become slacker not more taut.? The bump rubber on the body is now also?closer to the pedestal on the axle, so the damper can't be 'compressed' any more than it was before.? And with the same straps?the damper?can't be extended any more?than previously either.?Incorrect springs that give a very raised ride height may well cause the problem of picking up a rear tyre in a fast turn, but lowering blocks will reduce or eliminate that.?PaulH.?----- Original Message ----- 
>> 
>> Lowering blocks raise the rear axle in relation to the springs, but do not change the spring height in relation to the body or chassis frame.? You can correct the ride height that way, but it will not correct the gross misalignment for the rebound straps (which are attached to the lower spring mounting plate).
>> 
>> If the rebould straps are close to taught when at rest, they you will be royally screwed on handling when driving.? It will pick a rear tire completely off the ground in a fast turn, causing severe oversteer (very dangerous condition).? And if you install longer rebound straps, you will get damage to the lever arm shocks from overtravel.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>      - ?
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Yeah, good point.? Sorry about the slip up.? Iforgot the lower pin for the rebound strap is on the axlehousing.
>> 
>> Still no excuse for new replacement springs being manufactured with toomuch arch (and too high spring rate).? Theory of a leaf spring isthat when fully loaded it should be straight, flat, no arch.? Thisgives it the highest lateral stiffness and least tendency to twist andmisalign the springs and axle in hard cornering.? It just rubs methe wrong way to have to jury rig an perfectly good assembly toaccommodate use of a faulty replacement part.
>> 
>> 
>> At 03:32 AM 5/4/2021, PaulHunt73 wrote:
>> 
>> The lowermounting point for the rebound strap on an MGB (the car that was thesubject of the original enquiry) is on the axle.? So when you fitlowering blocks the body becomes lower relative to the axle and therebound straps become slacker not more taut.? The bump rubber on thebody is now also closer to the pedestal on the axle, so the damper can'tbe 'compressed' any more than it was before.? And with the samestraps the damper can't be extended any more than previously either.
>> ?
>> Incorrect springs that give a very raised ride heightmay well cause the problem of picking up a rear tyre in a fast turn, butlowering blocks will reduce or eliminate that.
>> ?
>> PaulH.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ----- OriginalMessage ----- 
>> 
>>      - Lowering blocks raise the rear axle in relation to the springs, butdo not change the spring height in relation to the body or chassisframe.? You can correct the ride height that way, but it will notcorrect the gross misalignment for the rebound straps (which are attachedto the lower spring mounting plate).   
>> 
>> 
>>      - If the rebould straps are close to taught when at rest, they you willbe royally screwed on handling when driving.? It will pick a reartire completely off the ground in a fast turn, causing severe oversteer(very dangerous condition).? And if you install longer reboundstraps, you will get damage to the lever arm shocks from overtravel.
>> 
>> Amen to that!
>> ----- Original Message ----- Still no excuse for new replacement springs being manufactured with too much arch (and too high spring rate).? Theory of a leaf spring is that when fully loaded it should be straight, flat, no arch.? This gives it the highest lateral stiffness and least tendency to twist and misalign the springs and axle in hard cornering.? It just rubs me the wrong way to have to jury rig an perfectly good assembly to accommodate use of a faulty replacement part.
>> 
>> 
>>      - ?
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Mgs mailing list
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>> 
>> -------------- next part --------------
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>> 
>> ------------------------------
>> 
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Mon, 03 May 2021 12:07:53 -0400
>> From: Barney Gaylord <barneymg at mgaguru.com>
>> To: Robert's New iPad <mgbobh at gmail.com>, PaulHunt73
>>    <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>
>> Cc: h.duinhoven at planet.nl,mgs at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ride height
>> Message-ID: <mailman.4.1620237603.1777.mgs at autox.team.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
>> 
>> Lowering blocks raise the rear axle in relation 
>> to the springs, but do not change the spring 
>> height in relation to the body or chassis 
>> frame.  You can correct the ride height that way, 
>> but it will not correct the gross misalignment 
>> for the rebound straps (which are attached to the lower spring mounting plate).
>> 
>> If the rebould straps are close to taught when at 
>> rest, they you will be royally screwed on 
>> handling when driving.  It will pick a rear tire
>> completely off the ground in a fast turn, causing 
>> severe oversteer (very dangerous condition).  And 
>> if you install longer rebound straps, you will
>> get damage to the lever arm shocks from overtravel.
>> 
>> 
>> At 11:43 AM 5/3/2021, Robert's New iPad wrote:
>>    I was pleased with the results after the 
>> spring company suggested I remove a couple of 
>> leaves from the new rear springs.    The owner 
>> of the shop knew the original height of front 
>> springs, as measured by the horizontal trim
>> strip, and my front was low too, though it was not down as much as the rear.
>>   Two spring companies I have talked with 
>> about this told me that they do not work with 
>> automobile springs any more, and that 
>> after-market spring quality is quite 
>> variable.  Spring shops around here work with commercial vehicles.
>>   One can make small lowering blocks, 1/2??? 
>> thick, from the poly-plastic cutting boards 
>> sold in kitchen sundry department at Wal-Mart.
>> Bob
> 
> 
>> On May 3, 2021, at 11:24 AM, PaulHunt73 
>> <<mailto:paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> The high rear end after spring replacement is 
>>> common and is part of the 'too hard' thing 
>>> needing extra weight in the boot to get the rebound straps fastened.
>>> 
>>> Personally I wouldn't jack up the front to 
>>> match the rear, people spend inordinate amounts 
>>> of time and money trying to lower MGBs!  What 
>>> you could try is lowering 'blocks' between the 
>>> axle and the springs, as used with parabolic 
>>> springs, but may need longer U-bolts.
>>> 
>>> Even with new OEM rears my CB roadster was too 
>>> low when fully laden, bottoming and grounding 
>>> in country lanes, I ended up extending the rear shackles.
>>> 
>>> PaulH.
> 
> 
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> 3 years ago I got an MOT safety test fail on
>>> the sagged rear springs, so these were replaced.
>>> 
>>> From that moment on the car looks a bit like a 
>>> dragster with the rear higher than the front.
>>> 
>>> So I should look for replacement front coils.
>>> ....
> -------------- next part --------------
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> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/mgs/attachments/20210503/5b21bcd4/attachment.htm>
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 5 May 2021 10:28:56 +0100
> From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>
> To: "Barney Gaylord" <barneymg at mgaguru.com>
> Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ride height
> Message-ID: <AF7EEA78C83848308B7276B6FEE6901C at paul>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> Funny how things suddenly come to mind when you are doing something completely different.
> 
> Whilst the rebound strap is on the axle the damper mount IS below the spring.  If you fit 1" (say) lowering blocks between the axle and the spring, positioning the axle closer to the body (and so lowering the ride height), then the axle can move 1" further down before the STANDARD rebound strap stops it, hence the damper mounting plate has moved 1" further down than normal.  It's this that could result in the damper hitting its lower limit before the rebound strap stops the axle.  
> 
> I think!
> 
> Easy enough to check - when the strap is carrying the weight of the axle it should twang like a bow-string, and there should be a little more downward movement of the damper mounting plate below the spring.  If not, then shorter webbing straps can be made up in the US and the UK, or it may be possible to 'shorten' one with some kind of clamp that puts a tight curve in it under tension instead of being straight.
> 
> PaulH.
>  ----- Original Message ----- 
>  From: Barney Gaylord 
>  To: PaulHunt73 
>  Cc: mgs at autox.team.net 
>  Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2021 2:42 PM
>  Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ride height
> 
> 
>  Yeah, good point.  Sorry about the slip up.  I forgot the lower pin for the rebound strap is on the axle housing.
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Digest Footer
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Mgs mailing list
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> End of Mgs Digest, Vol 168, Issue 4
> ***********************************


From frankk12 at verizon.net  Thu May  6 15:06:33 2021
From: frankk12 at verizon.net (Frank Krajewski)
Date: Thu, 6 May 2021 17:06:33 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Mold, part 2
References: <961E5935-6B4B-4241-A513-A63C3450ACB6.ref@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <961E5935-6B4B-4241-A513-A63C3450ACB6@verizon.net>

I have received many great suggestions from the list. A simple start will be to create a moisture barrier between the concrete floor, which at present has a carpet, and the MGB.  This will be in the form of a tarp or plastic sheet.  Excuse my na?vet? but what prevents moisture from forming on the tarp or plastic? 
Frank Krajewski
1980 MGB LE
1991 Mazda Miata SE
2003 RAV4
2021 Subaru Outback Limited 

Sent from my iPad

From mvheim at sonic.net  Thu May  6 15:20:46 2021
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 6 May 2021 14:20:46 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Mold, part 2
In-Reply-To: <961E5935-6B4B-4241-A513-A63C3450ACB6@verizon.net>
References: <961E5935-6B4B-4241-A513-A63C3450ACB6.ref@verizon.net>
 <961E5935-6B4B-4241-A513-A63C3450ACB6@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <FF6AE943-A600-4953-9CAD-C4116E76AA4C@sonic.net>

Theoretically it will form on the underside of the plastic? which will not be good for your carpet, which should be removed.

Leave the cover off for ventilation, as much as possible (obviously you might want to cover the car if you are running the saw or the belt sander, or spraying paint). If you could leave the windows down, at least a few inches, it would help. Surely mice can?t climb up sheer glass?


--
Max Heim
'66 MGB

> On May 6, 2021, at 2:06 PM, Frank Krajewski <frankk12 at verizon.net> wrote:
> 
> I have received many great suggestions from the list. A simple start will be to create a moisture barrier between the concrete floor, which at present has a carpet, and the MGB.  This will be in the form of a tarp or plastic sheet.  Excuse my na?vet? but what prevents moisture from forming on the tarp or plastic? 
> Frank Krajewski
> 1980 MGB LE
> 1991 Mazda Miata SE
> 2003 RAV4
> 2021 Subaru Outback Limited 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net
> 

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From mgbobh at gmail.com  Thu May  6 16:34:37 2021
From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad)
Date: Thu, 6 May 2021 18:34:37 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Mold, part 2
In-Reply-To: <FF6AE943-A600-4953-9CAD-C4116E76AA4C@sonic.net>
References: <961E5935-6B4B-4241-A513-A63C3450ACB6.ref@verizon.net>
 <961E5935-6B4B-4241-A513-A63C3450ACB6@verizon.net>
 <FF6AE943-A600-4953-9CAD-C4116E76AA4C@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <C5672591-CD07-482F-BCF6-BC9112D6F77E@gmail.com>

    Concrete may, if thick enough, be _water_proof (think dams)  but when used as a floor it is not _vapour_proof.  Vapour comes right through six inches of concrete, almost as readily as through bare earth. 
    A responsible installer of tile, vinyl, carpet or anything else will tape a pane of glass down onto a concrete floor that is poured on ground, then check for condensation on underside of the glass a day later.   One should not place a bet that there will be no condensation; there almost always is.   That?s why carpets on lower-level of houses will smell musty after a year or so; it is because they are musty.  
   Any conscientious home builder will put a layer of 10-mil plastic sheeting on top of the crushed rock before he pours the concrete.  I read about one once; have never met one. 
   There are ways to seal the concrete, ways of greater or lesser effectiveness.  One commonly-used product in USA is ?DryLock?, a coating for concrete that is pretty effective at stopping moisture vapour seeping through the concrete.  It is simple to apply, but hard work, as the thick material must be scrubbed into the concrete floor and walls to achieve the sealing effect wanted.  It works; I used it on the lower level of my raised-ranch house and found the dehumidifier ran half as much.  
   In a garage, I would work at improving ventilation before messing around with concrete sealer. Code for a house is one sq foot of ventilation per 1000 square ft of house.  That is entirely inadequate, especially so when one realises that ordinary window screen reduces air flow by 50%.   A 12x20 ft garage is 240 sq feet, and really should have a vent at each end, or ridge vent its entire length.  That is way in excess of code requirements, but will reduce considerably condensation from moisture through the floor.
Bob


> On May 6, 2021, at 5:20 PM, Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net> wrote:
> 
> Theoretically it will form on the underside of the plastic? which will not be good for your carpet, which should be removed.
> 
> Leave the cover off for ventilation, as much as possible (obviously you might want to cover the car if you are running the saw or the belt sander, or spraying paint). If you could leave the windows down, at least a few inches, it would help. Surely mice can?t climb up sheer glass?
> 
> 
> --
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB
> 
>> On May 6, 2021, at 2:06 PM, Frank Krajewski <frankk12 at verizon.net> wrote:
>> 
>> I have received many great suggestions from the list. A simple start will be to create a moisture barrier between the concrete floor, which at present has a carpet, and the MGB.  This will be in the form of a tarp or plastic sheet.  Excuse my na?vet? but what prevents moisture from forming on the tarp or plastic? 
>> Frank Krajewski
>> 1980 MGB LE
>> 1991 Mazda Miata SE
>> 2003 RAV4
>> 2021 Subaru Outback Limited 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net
>> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
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From mvheim at sonic.net  Thu May  6 16:41:06 2021
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 6 May 2021 15:41:06 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Mold, part 2
In-Reply-To: <C5672591-CD07-482F-BCF6-BC9112D6F77E@gmail.com>
References: <961E5935-6B4B-4241-A513-A63C3450ACB6.ref@verizon.net>
 <961E5935-6B4B-4241-A513-A63C3450ACB6@verizon.net>
 <FF6AE943-A600-4953-9CAD-C4116E76AA4C@sonic.net>
 <C5672591-CD07-482F-BCF6-BC9112D6F77E@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <46B05E89-8B1B-4D6B-B6A2-984C3C399524@sonic.net>

Bob is right, in that ventilation is the key.

My car is outdoors in a carport all winter, but even though I am near the coast it doesn?t get moldy because of the free air circulation. It?s under a cover, but the windows are cracked, and I do drive it from time to time (it would be driven regularly in a normal year).

--
Max Heim
'66 MGB


> On May 6, 2021, at 3:34 PM, Robert's New iPad <mgbobh at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
>     Concrete may, if thick enough, be _water_proof (think dams)  but when used as a floor it is not _vapour_proof.  Vapour comes right through six inches of concrete, almost as readily as through bare earth. 
>     A responsible installer of tile, vinyl, carpet or anything else will tape a pane of glass down onto a concrete floor that is poured on ground, then check for condensation on underside of the glass a day later.   One should not place a bet that there will be no condensation; there almost always is.   That?s why carpets on lower-level of houses will smell musty after a year or so; it is because they are musty.  
>    Any conscientious home builder will put a layer of 10-mil plastic sheeting on top of the crushed rock before he pours the concrete.  I read about one once; have never met one. 
>    There are ways to seal the concrete, ways of greater or lesser effectiveness.  One commonly-used product in USA is ?DryLock?, a coating for concrete that is pretty effective at stopping moisture vapour seeping through the concrete.  It is simple to apply, but hard work, as the thick material must be scrubbed into the concrete floor and walls to achieve the sealing effect wanted.  It works; I used it on the lower level of my raised-ranch house and found the dehumidifier ran half as much.  
>    In a garage, I would work at improving ventilation before messing around with concrete sealer. Code for a house is one sq foot of ventilation per 1000 square ft of house.  That is entirely inadequate, especially so when one realises that ordinary window screen reduces air flow by 50%.   A 12x20 ft garage is 240 sq feet, and really should have a vent at each end, or ridge vent its entire length.  That is way in excess of code requirements, but will reduce considerably condensation from moisture through the floor.
> Bob
> 
> 
> On May 6, 2021, at 5:20 PM, Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net <mailto:mvheim at sonic.net>> wrote:
> 
>> Theoretically it will form on the underside of the plastic? which will not be good for your carpet, which should be removed.
>> 
>> Leave the cover off for ventilation, as much as possible (obviously you might want to cover the car if you are running the saw or the belt sander, or spraying paint). If you could leave the windows down, at least a few inches, it would help. Surely mice can?t climb up sheer glass?
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> Max Heim
>> '66 MGB
>> 
>>> On May 6, 2021, at 2:06 PM, Frank Krajewski <frankk12 at verizon.net <mailto:frankk12 at verizon.net>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I have received many great suggestions from the list. A simple start will be to create a moisture barrier between the concrete floor, which at present has a carpet, and the MGB.  This will be in the form of a tarp or plastic sheet.  Excuse my na?vet? but what prevents moisture from forming on the tarp or plastic? 
>>> Frank Krajewski
>>> 1980 MGB LE
>>> 1991 Mazda Miata SE
>>> 2003 RAV4
>>> 2021 Subaru Outback Limited 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> 
>>> Mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs <http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net>
>>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs <http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>> 
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com>
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From thgun at comporium.net  Thu May 13 15:57:17 2021
From: thgun at comporium.net (Thomas Gunderson)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2021 17:57:17 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGA GLOVE BOX
Message-ID: <5B4009EA-0233-4265-BF63-A61D7BCF865E@comporium.net>

Anybody seen the radio mounting hole used as a glove box? Maybe the cover plate would flip open and a USB  or
 12v port mounted behind the cover.
1957 MGA rst 1500

Sent from my iPhone X




From mvheim at sonic.net  Thu May 13 16:24:37 2021
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2021 15:24:37 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGA GLOVE BOX
In-Reply-To: <5B4009EA-0233-4265-BF63-A61D7BCF865E@comporium.net>
References: <5B4009EA-0233-4265-BF63-A61D7BCF865E@comporium.net>
Message-ID: <387B371E-642D-42F3-B4D3-63459D5C9824@sonic.net>

I used to have a pull-out stereo unit in my MGB. The removable unit slid into a box the size of a stock radio mounted in the standard location. I rigged an MG radio blanking plate with clips so it would snap in and fill the hole when the stereo was removed. If I had wanted to I could have used this little cubby for storage (one problem was that it had a lot of random holes in it that would let small objects fall out; another was the massive plug at the rear that ate up a lot of the depth).

But you could certainly build your own optimized box out of cardboard, plastic or sheet metal and do the same trick with the blanking plate. My ?clip? was merely a wide piece of thin sheet metal bent into a C and secured by the regular pins, that relied on friction and spring tension to stay in place. But I could easily see a hinge system attached to the lip of the box, with a cabinet-style magnetic or friction closure, or even a spring-loaded hinge.

One problem with this space as a glovebox is that the opening is so narrow that you can?t reach inside it with your hand very easily. It would be hard to retrieve a pen that rolled to the back, for instance.

On my current MGB I took a different tack. Since I didn?t install a radio, I removed the speaker and grill from the console and cut out the plastic to match the chrome octagon surround. I put in a laminate back wall with a cigar lighter for my USB charger, and lined the bottom and sides with carpet. The resulting open cubby is tall and wide but shallow ? just big enough to hold a sunglass case and my iPhone (which it conveniently supports in a vertical position, if I need to use the nav features), with a pair of driving gloves for padding.

Pictures here: https://www.mgexp.com/journal/Max-Heims-MGB-Journal.4100/Cockpit-Is-Done.16927/ <https://www.mgexp.com/journal/Max-Heims-MGB-Journal.4100/Cockpit-Is-Done.16927/>

I realize the MGA doesn?t have this feature?

--
Max Heim
'66 MGB

> On May 13, 2021, at 2:57 PM, Thomas Gunderson <thgun at comporium.net> wrote:
> 
> Anybody seen the radio mounting hole used as a glove box? Maybe the cover plate would flip open and a USB  or
> 12v port mounted behind the cover.
> 1957 MGA rst 1500
> 
> Sent from my iPhone X
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net
> 

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From paul at ece.rochester.edu  Fri May 14 05:25:57 2021
From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Osborne, Paul)
Date: Fri, 14 May 2021 11:25:57 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Door Pockets
In-Reply-To: <5B4009EA-0233-4265-BF63-A61D7BCF865E@comporium.net>
References: <5B4009EA-0233-4265-BF63-A61D7BCF865E@comporium.net>
Message-ID: <459F82B5-A093-4242-9AE5-69F9F97C7303@ur.rochester.edu>

Door pockets in MGAs seem to get lost over the years. There are a few suppliers that have them available, at a rather high cost and shipping. Who has made them, what did you use, or have you 
found a reasonable outlet?  



Paul


> Paul Osborne
> Department of Electrical and Computer Eng
> University of Rochester 
> 201 Hopeman Building RC
> Rochester NY 14627
> 
   585-275-5226


From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Fri May 14 08:30:56 2021
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Fri, 14 May 2021 10:30:56 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Door Pockets
In-Reply-To: <459F82B5-A093-4242-9AE5-69F9F97C7303@ur.rochester.edu>
References: <5B4009EA-0233-4265-BF63-A61D7BCF865E@comporium.net>
 <459F82B5-A093-4242-9AE5-69F9F97C7303@ur.rochester.edu>
Message-ID: <mailman.4.1621002698.3748.mgs@autox.team.net>

Paul, -- If you are thinking about making your own, see here:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/interior/int103e.htm -- Click for drawings 
and templates.
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/interior/int103f.htm -- Fabricating
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/interior/int103g.htm -- Loose edges


At 07:25 AM 5/14/2021, Osborne, Paul wrote:
>Door pockets in MGAs seem to get lost over the years. There are a 
>few suppliers that have them available, at a rather high cost and 
>shipping. Who has made them, what did you use, or have you
>found a reasonable outlet?
>
>Paul
> > Paul Osborne
> > Department of Electrical and Computer Eng
> > University of Rochester
> > 201 Hopeman Building RC
> > Rochester NY 14627
> >
>    585-275-5226
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From britfan1 at epix.net  Sun May 16 18:09:08 2021
From: britfan1 at epix.net (S.Carr)
Date: Sun, 16 May 2021 20:09:08 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 1980 MGB engine removal
Message-ID: <mailman.5.1621210155.3748.mgs@autox.team.net>

The workshop manual recommends removing the engine and gearbox as one unit.  Has anyone had success removing the engine while leaving the gearbox in place?  All bell housing bolts appear accessible, and a friend would love to not have to remove the console, carpet, gearshift, driveshaft, etc., to get the engine out--the head has serious problems, and he fears the block will too.

Thanks,
Sarah Carr
?71 B/GT in PA

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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From mgbobh at gmail.com  Sun May 16 18:38:12 2021
From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad)
Date: Sun, 16 May 2021 20:38:12 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 1980 MGB engine removal
In-Reply-To: <20210517000957.41D5DA1110@autox.team.net>
References: <20210517000957.41D5DA1110@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <C0DA975E-5598-4CA7-8979-55A313696A96@gmail.com>

   I have assisted in engine-only engine removal, and know those who have done it both ways.   I have done only engine&gearbox together, a one-person job. 
   If friend really can remove all bolts, then the engine is slid forward off the input shaft to the gearbox, taking car that gearbox and engine are on the same plane, else clutch disc gets bent..   Installation requires similarly careful alignment. 
   To do engine & gearbox together, it is not necessary to remove carpet, and I have seen it done with console sections left in place.   Gearshift lever is held in with three bolts, easily accessible after the knob, boot and the chrome ring are removed. 

> On May 16, 2021, at 8:09 PM, S.Carr <britfan1 at epix.net> wrote:
> 
> The workshop manual recommends removing the engine and gearbox as one unit.  Has anyone had success removing the engine while leaving the gearbox in place?  All bell housing bolts appear accessible, and a friend would love to not have to remove the console, carpet, gearshift, driveshaft, etc., to get the engine out--the head has serious problems, and he fears the block will too.
>  
> Thanks,
> Sarah Carr
> ?71 B/GT in PA
>  
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>  
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com
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From dcouncill at karamursel.org  Sun May 16 19:04:54 2021
From: dcouncill at karamursel.org (dcouncill)
Date: Sun, 16 May 2021 18:04:54 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] 1980 MGB engine removal
In-Reply-To: <20210517000940.5EB27A1107@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <c10bb976.AL8AAKI0ySsAAAAAAAAAAAWZDQAAAAAAKtYAAAAAABbjogBgocE6@mailjet.com>

I have done it both ways. But there was an issue with the engine only method - getting the engine mated again with the transmission. It took a lot of struggling to line them up straight enough to pull together when I did it. So is a choice between that and removing the transmission with the engine. I usually remove them both together - a little more work but a lot less struggling.?David Councill64B72B67BGT
-------- Original message --------From: "S.Carr" <britfan1 at epix.net> Date: 5/16/21  5:09 PM  (GMT-08:00) To: MGs <mgs at autox.team.net> Subject: [Mgs] 1980 MGB engine removal The workshop manual recommends removing the engine and gearbox as one unit.? Has anyone had success removing the engine while leaving the gearbox in place?? All bell housing bolts appear accessible, and a friend would love to not have to remove the console, carpet, gearshift, driveshaft, etc., to get the engine out--the head has serious problems, and he fears the block will too.?Thanks,Sarah Carr?71 B/GT in PA?Sent from Mail for Windows 10?
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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Mon May 17 02:01:34 2021
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Mon, 17 May 2021 09:01:34 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] 1980 MGB engine removal
References: <20210517000954.CF95CA1100@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <C02F78D42D7649598964676F3F2E09DB@paul>

I've done it both ways and it all depends on how much space, how many bodies are available, and how big a hoist you have.  Single-handed in a single-width garage and with a folding hoist I've done engines three times including a V8, and even when the V8 gearbox needed to come out I did the engine first and got the gearbox out afterwards which makes dealing with the gearbox crossmember easier.

But if all you need is access to the engine or clutch then engine only is far easier as dealing with the gearbox crossmember and the speedo cable (when on an OD) is the big problem getting it out with the engine, and everything else you list is extra work that isn't needed.  Getting the two back together is the same whether they are both out or the gearbox is out as well - with one exception I'll come on to.  With the gearbox out both need to be held to get them back together or they wriggle about like small children in the bath, doing that on two occasions with two people it took longer than getting engines back in on their own.  With the gearbox wedged at the top of the tunnel that is held still while you are manipulating the engine and only needs one person.  

The exception is that on chrome bumper models you can't lower the engine in then push it straight back onto the gearbox as the crossmember is in the way, it has to be done at a steeper angle until the end of the first motion shaft is inside the clutch cover, then reduce the angle and it will go back.  With rubber bumper models as in your case with the body sitting higher on the crossmember the engine can be lowered in and pushed straight back.  Believe me, it is far easier doing engine only, and that is how the pros do it.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message ----- 

  The workshop manual recommends removing the engine and gearbox as one unit.  Has anyone had success removing the engine while leaving the gearbox in place?  All bell housing bolts appear accessible, and a friend would love to not have to remove the console, carpet, gearshift, driveshaft, etc., to get the engine out--the head has serious problems, and he fears the block will too.
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From mghirsch at netzero.net  Tue May 18 10:08:02 2021
From: mghirsch at netzero.net (mghirsch at netzero.net)
Date: Tue, 18 May 2021 16:08:02 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] 1980 MGB engine removal
Message-ID: <20210518.110802.8881.0@webmail10.dca.untd.com>

It is possible.  But I have found it easier to pull Both together.  Especially when mating it up to the tranny.  
---------- Original Message ----------
From: S.Carr <britfan1 at epix.net>
To: MGs <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] 1980 MGB engine removal
Date: Sun, 16 May 2021 20:09:08 -0400


The workshop manual recommends removing the engine and gearbox as one unit.?  Has anyone had success removing the engine while leaving the gearbox in place??  All bell housing bolts appear accessible, and a friend would love to not have to remove the console, carpet, gearshift, driveshaft, etc., to get the engine out--the head has serious problems, and he fears the block will too.
 
Thanks,
Sarah Carr
?&euro;&tilde;71 B/GT in PA
 
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
 
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From mvheim at sonic.net  Tue May 18 10:29:00 2021
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 18 May 2021 09:29:00 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] 1980 MGB engine removal
In-Reply-To: <20210518.110802.8881.0@webmail10.dca.untd.com>
References: <20210518.110802.8881.0@webmail10.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <281BED60-687A-435D-A4B6-610DC263773F@sonic.net>

Obviously, both methods are possible; they have different advantages and problems.

The workshop manual knows what it is talking about and lays out all the steps. If you choose another method it is up to you to work out the order of assembly issues.

Yes, if you pull both there are few extra items to remove, but not many: shift lever, reverse switch wire, OD wires if present, crossmember & trans mount bolts, speedo cable. You also need to raise the car enough for the tailshaft to tilt in.

If you pull just the engine, you have to do all the fiddly stuff (aligning the clutch, undoing and refitting the engine-trans bolts) under the car with limited access, so you have to raise the car anyway.

Sometimes it works like a charm, but on occasion the clutch just won't align and you can spend hours mucking with it, squandering any time you ?saved?.

I just did an engine install with the transmission in place (not on an MG), and it took almost two hours to get the engine aligned to the torque converter. We did it that way at the insistence of my buddy (it was his garage and his lift, although it was my car), but I really think we would have been better off doing it my way, with both together. The reason I went along was I was afraid his hoist couldn?t lift the combo high enough to clear the nose of the car. That isn?t really a problem with the low slung MG.

--
Max Heim
'66 MGB



> On May 18, 2021, at 9:08 AM, mghirsch at netzero.net wrote:
> 
> It is possible.  But I have found it easier to pull Both together.  Especially when mating it up to the tranny.  
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: S.Carr <britfan1 at epix.net>
> To: MGs <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Mgs] 1980 MGB engine removal
> Date: Sun, 16 May 2021 20:09:08 -0400
> 
> 
> The workshop manual recommends removing the engine and gearbox as one unit.?  Has anyone had success removing the engine while leaving the gearbox in place??  All bell housing bolts appear accessible, and a friend would love to not have to remove the console, carpet, gearshift, driveshaft, etc., to get the engine out--the head has serious problems, and he fears the block will too.
> 
>  
> Thanks,
> 
> Sarah Carr
> 
> ???71 B/GT in PA
> 
>  
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10
> 
>  
> 
> 
> ____________________________________________________________
> 
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> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net

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From ejrussell61 at gmail.com  Tue May 18 12:15:47 2021
From: ejrussell61 at gmail.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Tue, 18 May 2021 14:15:47 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 168, Issue 9
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1621360802.1665.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1621360802.1665.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CAP7dBXCFOPTuBG+E8t3qV7F+OC=hcTPeGhp_M4L20ccqebb7iA@mail.gmail.com>

I have done it both ways (MGA & MGB). Generally, unless I need to have the
transmission out, I'll take out just the engine. Two tips I can offer.

1) Remove the crank pulley before pulling the engine (and replace it after
re-installation). This can give you an extra inch of maneuvering room in
the engine bay.

B) Use a good clutch alignment tool or a spare first motion shaft (doesn't
everyone have a bin of spare first motion shafts?!?). And - most important,
even when using a good alignment tool - you must not slide it in and let it
hang. There is enough play in the assembly that the clutch will not be
perfectly aligned unless you hold the tool perpendicular to the clutch.

EjR

On Tue, May 18, 2021 at 2:01 PM <mgs-request at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Send Mgs mailing list submissions to
>         mgs at autox.team.net
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>         mgs-request at autox.team.net
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>         mgs-owner at autox.team.net
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Mgs digest..."
>
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Re: 1980 MGB engine removal (mghirsch at netzero.net)
>    2. Re: 1980 MGB engine removal (Max Heim)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 18 May 2021 16:08:02 GMT
> From: "mghirsch at netzero.net" <mghirsch at netzero.net>
> To: britfan1 at epix.net
> Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1980 MGB engine removal
> Message-ID: <20210518.110802.8881.0 at webmail10.dca.untd.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
>
> It is possible.  But I have found it easier to pull Both together.
> Especially when mating it up to the tranny.
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: S.Carr <britfan1 at epix.net>
> To: MGs <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Mgs] 1980 MGB engine removal
> Date: Sun, 16 May 2021 20:09:08 -0400
>
>
> The workshop manual recommends removing the engine and gearbox as one
> unit.?  Has anyone had success removing the engine while leaving the
> gearbox in place??  All bell housing bolts appear accessible, and a friend
> would love to not have to remove the console, carpet, gearshift,
> driveshaft, etc., to get the engine out--the head has serious problems, and
> he fears the block will too.
>
> Thanks,
> Sarah Carr
> ?&euro;&tilde;71 B/GT in PA
>
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Sponsored by
> https://www.newser.com/?utm_source=part&utm_medium=uol&utm_campaign=rss_taglines_more
>
> Proposed Capital Attack Probe Dealt 'Serious Setback'
> http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/60a3e6ac428e366ab7755st01duc1
> Andrew Giuliani: 'I Am Going to Be Governor of New York'
> http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/60a3e6ac630c766ab7755st01duc2
> As Judge Reads Verdict, Convict Kills Himself
> http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/60a3e6ac83de066ab7755st01duc3
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <
> http://autox.team.net/pipermail/mgs/attachments/20210518/a86eb777/attachment-0001.htm
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 18 May 2021 09:29:00 -0700
> From: Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net>
> To: Mga List <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1980 MGB engine removal
> Message-ID: <281BED60-687A-435D-A4B6-610DC263773F at sonic.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Obviously, both methods are possible; they have different advantages and
> problems.
>
> The workshop manual knows what it is talking about and lays out all the
> steps. If you choose another method it is up to you to work out the order
> of assembly issues.
>
> Yes, if you pull both there are few extra items to remove, but not many:
> shift lever, reverse switch wire, OD wires if present, crossmember & trans
> mount bolts, speedo cable. You also need to raise the car enough for the
> tailshaft to tilt in.
>
> If you pull just the engine, you have to do all the fiddly stuff (aligning
> the clutch, undoing and refitting the engine-trans bolts) under the car
> with limited access, so you have to raise the car anyway.
>
> Sometimes it works like a charm, but on occasion the clutch just won't
> align and you can spend hours mucking with it, squandering any time you
> ?saved?.
>
> I just did an engine install with the transmission in place (not on an
> MG), and it took almost two hours to get the engine aligned to the torque
> converter. We did it that way at the insistence of my buddy (it was his
> garage and his lift, although it was my car), but I really think we would
> have been better off doing it my way, with both together. The reason I went
> along was I was afraid his hoist couldn?t lift the combo high enough to
> clear the nose of the car. That isn?t really a problem with the low slung
> MG.
>
> --
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB
>
>
>
> > On May 18, 2021, at 9:08 AM, mghirsch at netzero.net wrote:
> >
> > It is possible.  But I have found it easier to pull Both together.
> Especially when mating it up to the tranny.
> > ---------- Original Message ----------
> > From: S.Carr <britfan1 at epix.net>
> > To: MGs <mgs at autox.team.net>
> > Subject: [Mgs] 1980 MGB engine removal
> > Date: Sun, 16 May 2021 20:09:08 -0400
> >
> >
> > The workshop manual recommends removing the engine and gearbox as one
> unit.?  Has anyone had success removing the engine while leaving the
> gearbox in place??  All bell housing bolts appear accessible, and a friend
> would love to not have to remove the console, carpet, gearshift,
> driveshaft, etc., to get the engine out--the head has serious problems, and
> he fears the block will too.
> >
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Sarah Carr
> >
> > ???71 B/GT in PA
> >
> >
> > Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ____________________________________________________________
> >
> > Top News - Sponsored By Newser <
> https://www.newser.com/?utm_source=part&utm_medium=uol&utm_campaign=rss_taglines_more
> >
> > Proposed Capital Attack Probe Dealt 'Serious Setback' <
> http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3242/60a3e6ac428e366ab7755st01duc1>
> > Andrew Giuliani: 'I Am Going to Be Governor of New York' <
> http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3242/60a3e6ac630c766ab7755st01duc2>
> > As Judge Reads Verdict, Convict Kills Himself <
> http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3242/60a3e6ac83de066ab7755st01duc3
> >_______________________________________________
> >
> > Mgs at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net
>
> -------------- next part --------------
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> http://autox.team.net/pipermail/mgs/attachments/20210518/dc1b550e/attachment-0001.htm
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Subject: Digest Footer
>
> _______________________________________________
> Mgs mailing list
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of Mgs Digest, Vol 168, Issue 9
> ***********************************
>


-- 
Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
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From frankk12 at verizon.net  Tue May 18 14:15:28 2021
From: frankk12 at verizon.net (Frank Krajewski)
Date: Tue, 18 May 2021 16:15:28 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Tranny removal
References: <ADE02B97-6053-46AC-A5A2-8485CD2BB933.ref@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <ADE02B97-6053-46AC-A5A2-8485CD2BB933@verizon.net>

It?s always a good idea to replace the pilot bushing as well when you replace the clutch disc and pressure plate.  Remember to lube it, the bushing that is and the end of the input or first motion shaft. 
Frank Krajewski

Sent from my iPad

From nadelson at alum.mit.edu  Wed May 19 12:12:49 2021
From: nadelson at alum.mit.edu (Jay Nadelson)
Date: Wed, 19 May 2021 14:12:49 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 168, Issue 10
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1621447202.14148.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1621447202.14148.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CAC8EW6tN1yZbOaD_0=+kPc=nP3qD0jwoastgHvk__uH95LU=rQ@mail.gmail.com>

MGA RACE Car for Auction.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1960-mg-mga-42/

On Wed, May 19, 2021 at 2:01 PM <mgs-request at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Send Mgs mailing list submissions to
>         mgs at autox.team.net
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>         mgs-request at autox.team.net
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>         mgs-owner at autox.team.net
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Mgs digest..."
>
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Re: Mgs Digest, Vol 168, Issue 9 (Eric Russell)
>    2. Tranny removal (Frank Krajewski)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 18 May 2021 14:15:47 -0400
> From: Eric Russell <ejrussell61 at gmail.com>
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 168, Issue 9
> Message-ID:
>         <CAP7dBXCFOPTuBG+E8t3qV7F+OC=
> hcTPeGhp_M4L20ccqebb7iA at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I have done it both ways (MGA & MGB). Generally, unless I need to have the
> transmission out, I'll take out just the engine. Two tips I can offer.
>
> 1) Remove the crank pulley before pulling the engine (and replace it after
> re-installation). This can give you an extra inch of maneuvering room in
> the engine bay.
>
> B) Use a good clutch alignment tool or a spare first motion shaft (doesn't
> everyone have a bin of spare first motion shafts?!?). And - most important,
> even when using a good alignment tool - you must not slide it in and let it
> hang. There is enough play in the assembly that the clutch will not be
> perfectly aligned unless you hold the tool perpendicular to the clutch.
>
> EjR
>
> On Tue, May 18, 2021 at 2:01 PM <mgs-request at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> > Send Mgs mailing list submissions to
> >         mgs at autox.team.net
> >
> > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> >         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> >         mgs-request at autox.team.net
> >
> > You can reach the person managing the list at
> >         mgs-owner at autox.team.net
> >
> > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> > than "Re: Contents of Mgs digest..."
> >
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> >
> >
> > Today's Topics:
> >
> >    1. Re: 1980 MGB engine removal (mghirsch at netzero.net)
> >    2. Re: 1980 MGB engine removal (Max Heim)
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Tue, 18 May 2021 16:08:02 GMT
> > From: "mghirsch at netzero.net" <mghirsch at netzero.net>
> > To: britfan1 at epix.net
> > Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1980 MGB engine removal
> > Message-ID: <20210518.110802.8881.0 at webmail10.dca.untd.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
> >
> > It is possible.  But I have found it easier to pull Both together.
> > Especially when mating it up to the tranny.
> > ---------- Original Message ----------
> > From: S.Carr <britfan1 at epix.net>
> > To: MGs <mgs at autox.team.net>
> > Subject: [Mgs] 1980 MGB engine removal
> > Date: Sun, 16 May 2021 20:09:08 -0400
> >
> >
> > The workshop manual recommends removing the engine and gearbox as one
> > unit.?  Has anyone had success removing the engine while leaving the
> > gearbox in place??  All bell housing bolts appear accessible, and a
> friend
> > would love to not have to remove the console, carpet, gearshift,
> > driveshaft, etc., to get the engine out--the head has serious problems,
> and
> > he fears the block will too.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Sarah Carr
> > ?&euro;&tilde;71 B/GT in PA
> >
> > Sent from Mail for Windows 10
> >
> > ____________________________________________________________
> > Sponsored by
> >
> https://www.newser.com/?utm_source=part&utm_medium=uol&utm_campaign=rss_taglines_more
> >
> > Proposed Capital Attack Probe Dealt 'Serious Setback'
> >
> http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/60a3e6ac428e366ab7755st01duc1
> > Andrew Giuliani: 'I Am Going to Be Governor of New York'
> >
> http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/60a3e6ac630c766ab7755st01duc2
> > As Judge Reads Verdict, Convict Kills Himself
> >
> http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/60a3e6ac83de066ab7755st01duc3
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL: <
> >
> http://autox.team.net/pipermail/mgs/attachments/20210518/a86eb777/attachment-0001.htm
> > >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 2
> > Date: Tue, 18 May 2021 09:29:00 -0700
> > From: Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net>
> > To: Mga List <mgs at autox.team.net>
> > Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1980 MGB engine removal
> > Message-ID: <281BED60-687A-435D-A4B6-610DC263773F at sonic.net>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > Obviously, both methods are possible; they have different advantages and
> > problems.
> >
> > The workshop manual knows what it is talking about and lays out all the
> > steps. If you choose another method it is up to you to work out the order
> > of assembly issues.
> >
> > Yes, if you pull both there are few extra items to remove, but not many:
> > shift lever, reverse switch wire, OD wires if present, crossmember &
> trans
> > mount bolts, speedo cable. You also need to raise the car enough for the
> > tailshaft to tilt in.
> >
> > If you pull just the engine, you have to do all the fiddly stuff
> (aligning
> > the clutch, undoing and refitting the engine-trans bolts) under the car
> > with limited access, so you have to raise the car anyway.
> >
> > Sometimes it works like a charm, but on occasion the clutch just won't
> > align and you can spend hours mucking with it, squandering any time you
> > ?saved?.
> >
> > I just did an engine install with the transmission in place (not on an
> > MG), and it took almost two hours to get the engine aligned to the torque
> > converter. We did it that way at the insistence of my buddy (it was his
> > garage and his lift, although it was my car), but I really think we would
> > have been better off doing it my way, with both together. The reason I
> went
> > along was I was afraid his hoist couldn?t lift the combo high enough to
> > clear the nose of the car. That isn?t really a problem with the low slung
> > MG.
> >
> > --
> > Max Heim
> > '66 MGB
> >
> >
> >
> > > On May 18, 2021, at 9:08 AM, mghirsch at netzero.net wrote:
> > >
> > > It is possible.  But I have found it easier to pull Both together.
> > Especially when mating it up to the tranny.
> > > ---------- Original Message ----------
> > > From: S.Carr <britfan1 at epix.net>
> > > To: MGs <mgs at autox.team.net>
> > > Subject: [Mgs] 1980 MGB engine removal
> > > Date: Sun, 16 May 2021 20:09:08 -0400
> > >
> > >
> > > The workshop manual recommends removing the engine and gearbox as one
> > unit.?  Has anyone had success removing the engine while leaving the
> > gearbox in place??  All bell housing bolts appear accessible, and a
> friend
> > would love to not have to remove the console, carpet, gearshift,
> > driveshaft, etc., to get the engine out--the head has serious problems,
> and
> > he fears the block will too.
> > >
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Sarah Carr
> > >
> > > ???71 B/GT in PA
> > >
> > >
> > > Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> > Windows 10
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ____________________________________________________________
> > >
> > > Top News - Sponsored By Newser <
> >
> https://www.newser.com/?utm_source=part&utm_medium=uol&utm_campaign=rss_taglines_more
> > >
> > > Proposed Capital Attack Probe Dealt 'Serious Setback' <
> >
> http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3242/60a3e6ac428e366ab7755st01duc1>
> > > Andrew Giuliani: 'I Am Going to Be Governor of New York' <
> >
> http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3242/60a3e6ac630c766ab7755st01duc2>
> > > As Judge Reads Verdict, Convict Kills Himself <
> >
> http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3242/60a3e6ac83de066ab7755st01duc3
> > >_______________________________________________
> > >
> > > Mgs at autox.team.net
> > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > >
> > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> > >
> > > Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net
> >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL: <
> >
> http://autox.team.net/pipermail/mgs/attachments/20210518/dc1b550e/attachment-0001.htm
> > >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Subject: Digest Footer
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Mgs mailing list
> > Mgs at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > End of Mgs Digest, Vol 168, Issue 9
> > ***********************************
> >
>
>
> --
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <
> http://autox.team.net/pipermail/mgs/attachments/20210518/33af1c3d/attachment-0001.htm
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 18 May 2021 16:15:28 -0400
> From: Frank Krajewski <frankk12 at verizon.net>
> To: Mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] Tranny removal
> Message-ID: <ADE02B97-6053-46AC-A5A2-8485CD2BB933 at verizon.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> It?s always a good idea to replace the pilot bushing as well when you
> replace the clutch disc and pressure plate.  Remember to lube it, the
> bushing that is and the end of the input or first motion shaft.
> Frank Krajewski
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Subject: Digest Footer
>
> _______________________________________________
> Mgs mailing list
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of Mgs Digest, Vol 168, Issue 10
> ************************************
>


-- 
917-952-4664 (cell)
nadelson at alum.mit.edu
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From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Thu May 20 09:13:14 2021
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2021 15:13:14 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Mgs] MG Club T Souvenir Beer Mug
References: <675886779.764021.1621523594793.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <675886779.764021.1621523594793@mail.yahoo.com>

I don't know how I got it, but I have an ~12 oz glass beer mugfrom the MG Club "T" 6th Rendezvous 1985 at Silver Falls StatePark (in Oregon). Picture here:
http://tildebang.com/images/mg_mug.jpg
If someone would like it, pick up postage and it's yours.? Tiegoes to someone who attended the event.? I certainly didn't.I was in college at the time, and I've never owned an MGT.

David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com
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From ddarby at centurytel.net  Thu May 20 10:03:09 2021
From: ddarby at centurytel.net (David F. Darby)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2021 11:03:09 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG Club T Souvenir Beer Mug
In-Reply-To: <675886779.764021.1621523594793@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <675886779.764021.1621523594793.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <675886779.764021.1621523594793@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <018e01d74d91$a1add640$e50982c0$@centurytel.net>

That?s cool. I hope someone who attended will claim it.

 

David

 

From: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Breneman
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2021 10:13 AM
To: MGList List
Subject: [Mgs] MG Club T Souvenir Beer Mug

 

I don't know how I got it, but I have an ~12 oz glass beer mug

from the MG Club "T" 6th Rendezvous 1985 at Silver Falls State

Park (in Oregon). Picture here:

 

http://tildebang.com/images/mg_mug.jpg

 

If someone would like it, pick up postage and it's yours.  Tie

goes to someone who attended the event.  I certainly didn't.

I was in college at the time, and I've never owned an MGT.

 

David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com

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From springer.mike51 at gmail.com  Sun May 30 01:36:33 2021
From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sun, 30 May 2021 00:36:33 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Removal of Oil Pressure Switch
Message-ID: <CAL4ZEONHv98-9hQUekxt0onoqk6UC939WyYMg8=D0H-zDRUpqg@mail.gmail.com>

How do I remove the oil pressure switch in my 1969 MGB GT?  I was reaching
in from behind to replace the old light bulb with an LED type bulb.  Half
of the LED  bulb broke off in the gauge and I can't get it out while it's
in place in the dash.  Do I have to remove the whole dash?
Mike MacLean
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From springer.mike51 at gmail.com  Sun May 30 02:46:51 2021
From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sun, 30 May 2021 01:46:51 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Correction
Message-ID: <CAL4ZEOOxh2oOfAH_aUNKfvAAb7y3+gPC-jwKmJoORhE8PQ3W5A@mail.gmail.com>

It is the oil pressure gauge I need to remove, not the switch.
Mike MacLean
1969 MGB GT
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From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Sun May 30 07:47:58 2021
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Sun, 30 May 2021 08:47:58 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Removal of Oil Pressure Switch
In-Reply-To: <CAL4ZEONHv98-9hQUekxt0onoqk6UC939WyYMg8=D0H-zDRUpqg@mail.g
 mail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEONHv98-9hQUekxt0onoqk6UC939WyYMg8=D0H-zDRUpqg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.8.1622383129.3748.mgs@autox.team.net>

Been there.  For the later model MGB with 
recessed dash panel and limited space behind, and 
the console in place, Left Hand Drive, You may 
need to remove the large instrument next door to 
the left before you can get to the oil pressure 
gauge.  If you can't get to that iunstrument, 
then you may have to remove the next instrument to the left first.

Different model years have different instruments, 
and some of them may have been swapped in 
positions.  In a pinch, you may have to start at 
the left end of the dash and remove all of the 
instruments in sequence until you get to the 
smaller gauge you want.  Then reach in through 
the larger hole for access to the smaller gauge 
connections and mounting bracket.

Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com


At 02:36 AM 5/30/2021, Michael MacLean wrote:
>How do I remove the oil pressure switch in my 
>1969 MGB GT??  I was reaching in from behind to 
>replace the old light bulb with an LED type 
>bulb.?  Half of the LED?  bulb broke off in the 
>gauge and I can't get it out while it's in place 
>in the dash.?  Do I have to remove the whole dash?
>Mike MacLean
>....

At 03:46 AM 5/30/2021, Michael MacLean wrote:
>It is the oil pressure gauge I need to remove, not the switch.
>Mike MacLean
>1969 MGB GT
>....
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From springer.mike51 at gmail.com  Sun May 30 21:26:18 2021
From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sun, 30 May 2021 20:26:18 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Broken LED Lamp in Oil Gauge
Message-ID: <CAL4ZEOMkg0ZNM4GZUkgiHPfreyWdq1kHJ3HWU5j1ydJH2ZC+cA@mail.gmail.com>

Finally got the "electric" oil gauge out of my MGB GT today many little
cuts in my hands later.  Here's a picture showing the part of the LED bulb
that broke off in the gauge.  We think it was caused by the cheap sheet
metal thread in the bulb holder.  The LED bulb was seated at a slight angle
when screwed into the holder casing the bulb to break in half.  Kind of
fragile at $5 a pop.  A lot of work and new four letter expletives I didn't
even know there were.  Would have been impossible to remove with the gauge
in situ.  Came out easily with a pair of needle nose pliers..  Just
something to consider if you're thinking of converting to an LED dash.
Mike MacLean
69 MGB GT
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From mgbobh at gmail.com  Mon May 31 05:10:46 2021
From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2021 07:10:46 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Broken LED Lamp in Oil Gauge
In-Reply-To: <CAL4ZEOMkg0ZNM4GZUkgiHPfreyWdq1kHJ3HWU5j1ydJH2ZC+cA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOMkg0ZNM4GZUkgiHPfreyWdq1kHJ3HWU5j1ydJH2ZC+cA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D605161E-BFA8-4361-9007-39B75890FB27@gmail.com>

   Thanks for showing that the job can be done, with assurances by Barney that it is not impossible.  I am slightly more eager to attempt the task now.  Other instruments have been changed to LEDs, but this one had me hesitant.  
Bob


> On May 30, 2021, at 11:26 PM, Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Finally got the "electric" oil gauge out of my MGB GT today many little cuts in my hands later.  Here's a picture showing the part of the LED bulb that broke off in the gauge.  We think it was caused by the cheap sheet metal thread in the bulb holder.  The LED bulb was seated at a slight angle when screwed into the holder casing the bulb to break in half.  Kind of fragile at $5 a pop.  A lot of work and new four letter expletives I didn't even know there were.  Would have been impossible to remove with the gauge in situ.  Came out easily with a pair of needle nose pliers..  Just something to consider if you're thinking of converting to an LED dash.
> Mike MacLean
> 69 MGB GT
> <20210530_194817.jpg>
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com

From barrob at bell.net  Mon May 31 13:06:15 2021
From: barrob at bell.net (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2021 15:06:15 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Broken LED Lamp in Oil Gauge
In-Reply-To: <D605161E-BFA8-4361-9007-39B75890FB27@gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOMkg0ZNM4GZUkgiHPfreyWdq1kHJ3HWU5j1ydJH2ZC+cA@mail.gmail.com>
 <D605161E-BFA8-4361-9007-39B75890FB27@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <70042664-43d7-5f4e-936d-e71c7f352061@bell.net>

Hello Robert,

I changed my MGB GT V8 tacho and speedo to SpeedHut ones because my car 
is not 'original' as I built if from parts - souped up Rover engine from 
UK !!!?? But the new instruments are LED and I discovered were not too 
happy with the rheostat dimmer.?? So I installed an LED dimmer for the 
new SpeedHut gauges and kept the 'old' rheostat one for the remaining 
gauges.? So I have two knobs for dimming which is actually very 
convenient - small gauges low and tacho and speedo brighter.?? 
Incidentally, the SpeedHut ones are awesome - the speedo is run off GPS 
so no mechanical connection to car and deadly accurate plus all sorts of 
options.

Cheers
Barrie

On 5/31/2021 7:10 AM, Robert's New iPad wrote:
>     Thanks for showing that the job can be done, with assurances by Barney that it is not impossible.  I am slightly more eager to attempt the task now.  Other instruments have been changed to LEDs, but this one had me hesitant.
> Bob
>
>
>> On May 30, 2021, at 11:26 PM, Michael MacLean<springer.mike51 at gmail.com>  wrote:
>>
>> Finally got the "electric" oil gauge out of my MGB GT today many little cuts in my hands later.  Here's a picture showing the part of the LED bulb that broke off in the gauge.  We think it was caused by the cheap sheet metal thread in the bulb holder.  The LED bulb was seated at a slight angle when screwed into the holder casing the bulb to break in half.  Kind of fragile at $5 a pop.  A lot of work and new four letter expletives I didn't even know there were.  Would have been impossible to remove with the gauge in situ.  Came out easily with a pair of needle nose pliers..  Just something to consider if you're thinking of converting to an LED dash.
>> Mike MacLean
>> 69 MGB GT
>> <20210530_194817.jpg>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs  http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs  http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrob at bell.net

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From thgun at comporium.net  Mon May 31 13:38:09 2021
From: thgun at comporium.net (Thomas Gunderson)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2021 15:38:09 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Positive gnd alt.
Message-ID: <77CD02E2-60DF-44E3-9EA2-64CA63154749@comporium.net>

Can a replacement Alt be used for a positive ground car?

Sent from my iPhone X



From mgbobh at gmail.com  Mon May 31 13:43:16 2021
From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2021 15:43:16 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Positive gnd alt.
In-Reply-To: <77CD02E2-60DF-44E3-9EA2-64CA63154749@comporium.net>
References: <77CD02E2-60DF-44E3-9EA2-64CA63154749@comporium.net>
Message-ID: <22CFED7B-5585-4A3D-8F5E-A749D90715E7@gmail.com>

    Unless someone knows of specific alternators that are pos earth, the answer is NO.
    Changing from Pos to Neg is easy, though, and most owners have made the change for ease of radio and other electrical equipment.
Bob


> On May 31, 2021, at 3:38 PM, Thomas Gunderson <thgun at comporium.net> wrote:
> 
> Can a replacement Alt be used for a positive ground car?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone X
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com

From mvheim at sonic.net  Mon May 31 16:21:50 2021
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2021 15:21:50 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Positive gnd alt.
In-Reply-To: <22CFED7B-5585-4A3D-8F5E-A749D90715E7@gmail.com>
References: <22CFED7B-5585-4A3D-8F5E-A749D90715E7@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CCC2581-51E0-468F-8147-D546165D356A@sonic.net>

It?s not that there is some electrical reason that you couldn?t have a positive ground alternator, it?s just that nobody ever saw fit to make one. You can?t just flash an alternator to reverse the polarity like you can a generator.

The awkward part of going negative is modifying the tachometer. Otherwise it?s straightforward. 

Sent from my iPad

> On May 31, 2021, at 12:44 PM, Robert's New iPad <mgbobh at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?    Unless someone knows of specific alternators that are pos earth, the answer is NO.
>    Changing from Pos to Neg is easy, though, and most owners have made the change for ease of radio and other electrical equipment.
> Bob
> 
> 
>> On May 31, 2021, at 3:38 PM, Thomas Gunderson <thgun at comporium.net> wrote:
>> 
>> Can a replacement Alt be used for a positive ground car?
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone X
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net
>