From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Jan 3 13:24:56 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 20:24:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Mgs] Turn Signal Stalk References: <898287339.6686118.1609705496839.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <898287339.6686118.1609705496839@mail.yahoo.com> Just wondering.? Is the turn signal stalk on my 69 MGB GT supposed to be self canceling? As it is right now, I have to remember to put it back in the middle position after making a turn.? This is something I am used to because my Bugeye has a three position switch on the dash that you have to click back to the center position after making a turn.? On the Bugeye though, it's a little bit easier because there is a huge bright green light right in front of your face on the dash.? In fact, you can't ignore it at night it is so bright blinking at you.? Not so with the MG.? The lights are two little dim illuminated arrows.? While they are somewhat noticeable at night, you just don't notice these lights in the daytime.? Sorry, just sitting around on a Sunday morning and needed something to complain about.Mike MacLean1969 MGB GT1960 Bugeye1956 Austin Healey BN2 Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Jan 3 13:42:48 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 12:42:48 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Turn Signal Stalk In-Reply-To: <898287339.6686118.1609705496839@mail.yahoo.com> References: <898287339.6686118.1609705496839.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <898287339.6686118.1609705496839@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Try led lights :( I think they are self canceling Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Sun, Jan 3, 2021, 12:25 PM Michael MacLean wrote: > Just wondering. Is the turn signal stalk on my 69 MGB GT supposed to be > self canceling? As it is right now, I have to remember to put it back in > the middle position after making a turn. This is something I am used to > because my Bugeye has a three position switch on the dash that you have to > click back to the center position after making a turn. On the Bugeye > though, it's a little bit easier because there is a huge bright green light > right in front of your face on the dash. In fact, you can't ignore it at > night it is so bright blinking at you. Not so with the MG. The lights are > two little dim illuminated arrows. While they are somewhat noticeable at > night, you just don't notice these lights in the daytime. Sorry, just > sitting around on a Sunday morning and needed something to complain about. > Mike MacLean > 1969 MGB GT > 1960 Bugeye > 1956 Austin Healey BN2 > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Sun Jan 3 14:21:08 2021 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 15:21:08 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Turn Signal Stalk In-Reply-To: References: <898287339.6686118.1609705496839.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <898287339.6686118.1609705496839@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000701d6e216$5aebf7a0$10c3e6e0$@ranteer.com> British cars are notorious for the self-canceling not working. If you drive them a lot, you get in the habit of doing it manually. Then you start doing it on the Honda! From: Mgs On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: Sunday, January 3, 2021 2:43 PM To: Michael MacLean Cc: Mglist Subject: Re: [Mgs] Turn Signal Stalk Try led lights :( I think they are self canceling Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Sun, Jan 3, 2021, 12:25 PM Michael MacLean > wrote: Just wondering. Is the turn signal stalk on my 69 MGB GT supposed to be self canceling? As it is right now, I have to remember to put it back in the middle position after making a turn. This is something I am used to because my Bugeye has a three position switch on the dash that you have to click back to the center position after making a turn. On the Bugeye though, it's a little bit easier because there is a huge bright green light right in front of your face on the dash. In fact, you can't ignore it at night it is so bright blinking at you. Not so with the MG. The lights are two little dim illuminated arrows. While they are somewhat noticeable at night, you just don't notice these lights in the daytime. Sorry, just sitting around on a Sunday morning and needed something to complain about. Mike MacLean 1969 MGB GT 1960 Bugeye 1956 Austin Healey BN2 Sent from AT &T Yahoo Mail on Android _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From britfan1 at epix.net Sun Jan 3 14:34:57 2021 From: britfan1 at epix.net (S.Carr) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 16:34:57 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Turn Signal Stalk In-Reply-To: References: <898287339.6686118.1609705496839.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <898287339.6686118.1609705496839@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Yes, they should self-cancel. At least with my ?71, it helps to drop the steering column (only a few inches, but it helps) to remove the clamshell casing around the pair of stalks?we just replaced the left-hand unit on my car, as the high beam setting didn?t work. Installing the new unit was NOT easy?. Sarah Carr ?71 B/GT in PA Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mgbobh at gmail.com Sun Jan 3 15:41:43 2021 From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 17:41:43 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Turn Signal Stalk In-Reply-To: <898287339.6686118.1609705496839@mail.yahoo.com> References: <898287339.6686118.1609705496839.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <898287339.6686118.1609705496839@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi Mike, It is supposed to be self-cancelling, though that does require about 1/4 turn of the steering wheel to engage the cancelling mechanism. If you remove the steering column cover, a bit of a trick in itself, you will see from the left the steering column. On it should be a black spring clip that has a squared bump shape. That bump should be on same plane as the ?C? shaped plastic claws on the turn signal control. With wheels straight ahead and the steering wheel centred, that bump should be mid-way between the two claws. The way it is supposed to work is that when the turn lever is set for turns, the spring clip, as it swings around on the column, contacts one of the C claws, dislodging it from where it is parked, and the system cancels. On most roads in CT, the radius of turns at intersections is great enough that the self-cancel does not engage. I put an inexpensive beeper into the circuit at the flasher unit, as the little indicator lights are dim. Some have fitted brighter LEDs in place of the signal indicators. Having bloodied myself sufficiently when installing LEDs into the instruments, I will leave the signal indicators to some distant time in the future when I might have the dashboard out. It?s my opinion that the easiest way to address your question is to ensure that the cancelling device is set properly and to install a sound-making device/beeper, then to appreciate that our roads are wider and intersections built with greater radius than those in the UK when these cancelling devices were thought to be an improvement over the pneumatic, time-sensitive devices used in TDs, TFs and MGAs. Bob > On Jan 3, 2021, at 3:24 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > > Just wondering. Is the turn signal stalk on my 69 MGB GT supposed to be self canceling? As it is right now, I have to remember to put it back in the middle position after making a turn. This is something I am used to because my Bugeye has a three position switch on the dash that you have to click back to the center position after making a turn. On the Bugeye though, it's a little bit easier because there is a huge bright green light right in front of your face on the dash. In fact, you can't ignore it at night it is so bright blinking at you. Not so with the MG. The lights are two little dim illuminated arrows. While they are somewhat noticeable at night, you just don't notice these lights in the daytime. Sorry, just sitting around on a Sunday morning and needed something to complain about. > Mike MacLean > 1969 MGB GT > 1960 Bugeye > 1956 Austin Healey BN2 > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Jan 3 15:59:01 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 22:59:01 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Mgs] Turn Signal Stalk In-Reply-To: References: <898287339.6686118.1609705496839.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <898287339.6686118.1609705496839@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1552360315.6694128.1609714741621@mail.yahoo.com> The "beeper" is a great idea.Mike M On Sunday, January 3, 2021, 2:41:47 PM PST, Robert's New iPad wrote: Hi Mike,? ?It is supposed to be self-cancelling, though that does require about 1/4 turn of the steering wheel to engage the cancelling mechanism.? ?If you remove the steering column cover, a bit of a trick in itself, you will see from the left the steering column. ?On it should be a black spring clip that has a squared bump shape. ?That bump should be on same plane as the ?C? shaped plastic claws on the turn signal control. ?With wheels straight ahead and the steering wheel centred, that bump should be mid-way between the two claws.? ?The way it is supposed to work is that when the turn lever is set for turns, the spring clip, as it swings around on the column, contacts one of the C claws, dislodging it from where it is parked, and the system cancels.? ?On most roads in CT, the radius of turns at intersections is great enough that the self-cancel does not engage. ?I put an inexpensive beeper into the circuit at the flasher unit, as the little indicator lights are dim.? Some have fitted brighter LEDs in place of the signal indicators. Having bloodied myself sufficiently when installing LEDs into the instruments, I will leave the signal indicators to some distant time in the future when I might have the dashboard out. ?? It?s my opinion that the easiest way to address your question is to ensure that the cancelling device is set properly and to install a sound-making device/beeper, then to appreciate that our roads are wider and intersections built with greater radius than those in the UK when these cancelling devices were thought to be an improvement over the pneumatic, time-sensitive devices used in TDs, TFs and MGAs.Bob On Jan 3, 2021, at 3:24 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: Just wondering.? Is the turn signal stalk on my 69 MGB GT supposed to be self canceling? As it is right now, I have to remember to put it back in the middle position after making a turn.? This is something I am used to because my Bugeye has a three position switch on the dash that you have to click back to the center position after making a turn.? On the Bugeye though, it's a little bit easier because there is a huge bright green light right in front of your face on the dash.? In fact, you can't ignore it at night it is so bright blinking at you.? Not so with the MG.? The lights are two little dim illuminated arrows.? While they are somewhat noticeable at night, you just don't notice these lights in the daytime.? Sorry, just sitting around on a Sunday morning and needed something to complain about.Mike MacLean1969 MGB GT1960 Bugeye1956 Austin Healey BN2 Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Mon Jan 4 01:45:07 2021 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2021 08:45:07 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Turn Signal Stalk References: <898287339.6686118.1609705496839.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <898287339.6686118.1609705496839@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <645136EDC8E241C8AA4B659C165D4F57@paul> Yes. Around 1969 (may have been earlier for North America) the cancelling device changed from a peg screwed into the column to a clip. To get the peg in the right place the column shaft has to be turned relative to the rack shaft using the UJ, but the clip can be slid round. Peg or clip should be facing the switch i.e. between the two cancelling fingers on the switch so only about 1/4 turn is needed for cancelling. When you make the turn the peg or clip just lifts the finger on the switch out of the way, and when the steering is straightened again the peg or clip hits the end of the finger to move the switch. However I've come across a few cases where the peg is pointing away from the switch and 3/4 of a turn of the wheel is needed before these cancel. If you change the dash lamps to LED you will probably find the flashing speed reduces, and if you change the corners of the car to LEDs as well the flasher unit to be changed and you lose the drivers warning of bulb failure that the original system has. A buzzer or beeper can be connected to the two terminals on the flasher unit that carry the green and light-green/brown wires and will sound in anti-phase to the lights, but only when the switch is operated. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Just wondering. Is the turn signal stalk on my 69 MGB GT supposed to be self canceling? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Mon Jan 4 01:26:18 2021 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2021 08:26:18 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Turn Signal Stalk References: <898287339.6686118.1609705496839.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <898287339.6686118.1609705496839@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Nothing to do with LEDs or not, it is the stalk mechanism that cancels. ----- Original Message ----- Try led lights :( I think they are self canceling -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Mon Jan 4 02:08:41 2021 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (h.duinhoven at planet.nl) Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2021 10:08:41 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Turn Signal Stalk In-Reply-To: <1552360315.6694128.1609714741621@mail.yahoo.com> References: <898287339.6686118.1609705496839.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <898287339.6686118.1609705496839@mail.yahoo.com> <1552360315.6694128.1609714741621@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001f01d6e279$327f92f0$977eb8d0$@planet.nl> The early seventies Citro?n 2CV had a very loud almost deafening click sound. Nobody forgot to cancel the stalk. Cheers, Hans ?71 BGT Van: Mgs Namens Michael MacLean Verzonden: zondag 3 januari 2021 23:59 Aan: Robert's New iPad CC: Mglist Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Turn Signal Stalk The "beeper" is a great idea. Mike M On Sunday, January 3, 2021, 2:41:47 PM PST, Robert's New iPad > wrote: Hi Mike, It is supposed to be self-cancelling, though that does require about 1/4 turn of the steering wheel to engage the cancelling mechanism. If you remove the steering column cover, a bit of a trick in itself, you will see from the left the steering column. On it should be a black spring clip that has a squared bump shape. That bump should be on same plane as the ?C? shaped plastic claws on the turn signal control. With wheels straight ahead and the steering wheel centred, that bump should be mid-way between the two claws. The way it is supposed to work is that when the turn lever is set for turns, the spring clip, as it swings around on the column, contacts one of the C claws, dislodging it from where it is parked, and the system cancels. On most roads in CT, the radius of turns at intersections is great enough that the self-cancel does not engage. I put an inexpensive beeper into the circuit at the flasher unit, as the little indicator lights are dim. Some have fitted brighter LEDs in place of the signal indicators. Having bloodied myself sufficiently when installing LEDs into the instruments, I will leave the signal indicators to some distant time in the future when I might have the dashboard out. It?s my opinion that the easiest way to address your question is to ensure that the cancelling device is set properly and to install a sound-making device/beeper, then to appreciate that our roads are wider and intersections built with greater radius than those in the UK when these cancelling devices were thought to be an improvement over the pneumatic, time-sensitive devices used in TDs, TFs and MGAs. Bob On Jan 3, 2021, at 3:24 PM, Michael MacLean > wrote: Just wondering. Is the turn signal stalk on my 69 MGB GT supposed to be self canceling? As it is right now, I have to remember to put it back in the middle position after making a turn. This is something I am used to because my Bugeye has a three position switch on the dash that you have to click back to the center position after making a turn. On the Bugeye though, it's a little bit easier because there is a huge bright green light right in front of your face on the dash. In fact, you can't ignore it at night it is so bright blinking at you. Not so with the MG. The lights are two little dim illuminated arrows. While they are somewhat noticeable at night, you just don't notice these lights in the daytime. Sorry, just sitting around on a Sunday morning and needed something to complain about. Mike MacLean 1969 MGB GT 1960 Bugeye 1956 Austin Healey BN2 Sent from AT &T Yahoo Mail on Android _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com -- Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Wed Jan 6 10:52:22 2021 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2021 11:52:22 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] electric fan Message-ID: <000001d6e454$aff9ae50$0fed0af0$@ranteer.com> Who uses an electric fan as an add on to the mechanical one? What temperature does it kick in? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rolindsay at yahoo.com Wed Jan 6 15:24:18 2021 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (rolindsay at yahoo.com) Date: Wed, 06 Jan 2021 16:24:18 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] electric fan In-Reply-To: <000001d6e454$aff9ae50$0fed0af0$@ranteer.com> References: Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Thu Jan 7 01:27:14 2021 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Thu, 7 Jan 2021 08:27:14 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] electric fan References: <000001d6e454$aff9ae50$0fed0af0$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <520D08B8D65E4D918EA0A18629F9DE60@paul> Some add a mechanical fan, but since MGBs have been running around in desert states for 50 years it shouldn't be necessary except possibly under the harshest of conditions. People ad them here in the UK which seems ridiculous (especially at the moment ,,,), but then they could be covering-up a problem which should be investigated and fixed. Whilst the factory thermostats were set to 90C, aftermarket types often have a variable control. This means that factory systems have a rise on the temp gauge before the fan cuts in, when many seem paranoid bout probably because they are used to modern cars which don't do that. So they set them to the stat temp to try and keep the temp gauge at a fixed point regardless of conditions. The bottom line is that if everything is working as it should be, you shouldn't need additional cooling. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- From: dave To: mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2021 5:52 PM Subject: [Mgs] electric fan Who uses an electric fan as an add on to the mechanical one? What temperature does it kick in? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Thu Jan 7 09:05:33 2021 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (h.duinhoven at planet.nl) Date: Thu, 7 Jan 2021 17:05:33 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Turn Signal Stalk Message-ID: <008501d6e50e$f370ff20$da52fd60$@planet.nl> You?re correct Simon. On top of that ? the loudness was needed, because the Citro?n 2CV makes a lot of noise by itself! I have had a 1970 2CV4 in 1974 ? was nice to drive this as a youngster. Nothing in between the driver and passenger ?. Umbrella like gearstick was in the dashboard. Cheers, Hans 71 BGT Van: Simon Matthews > Verzonden: maandag 4 januari 2021 16:52 Aan: Hans Duinhoven > CC: Michael MacLean >; Robert's New iPad >; Mglist > Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Turn Signal Stalk Citroens of that era needed a loud warning, because the indicators were not self-cancelling. Simon On Mon, Jan 4, 2021 at 1:10 AM > wrote: The early seventies Citro?n 2CV had a very loud almost deafening click sound. Nobody forgot to cancel the stalk. Cheers, Hans ?71 BGT Van: Mgs > Namens Michael MacLean Verzonden: zondag 3 januari 2021 23:59 Aan: Robert's New iPad > CC: Mglist > Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Turn Signal Stalk The "beeper" is a great idea. Mike M On Sunday, January 3, 2021, 2:41:47 PM PST, Robert's New iPad > wrote: Hi Mike, It is supposed to be self-cancelling, though that does require about 1/4 turn of the steering wheel to engage the cancelling mechanism. If you remove the steering column cover, a bit of a trick in itself, you will see from the left the steering column. On it should be a black spring clip that has a squared bump shape. That bump should be on same plane as the ?C? shaped plastic claws on the turn signal control. With wheels straight ahead and the steering wheel centred, that bump should be mid-way between the two claws. The way it is supposed to work is that when the turn lever is set for turns, the spring clip, as it swings around on the column, contacts one of the C claws, dislodging it from where it is parked, and the system cancels. On most roads in CT, the radius of turns at intersections is great enough that the self-cancel does not engage. I put an inexpensive beeper into the circuit at the flasher unit, as the little indicator lights are dim. Some have fitted brighter LEDs in place of the signal indicators. Having bloodied myself sufficiently when installing LEDs into the instruments, I will leave the signal indicators to some distant time in the future when I might have the dashboard out. It?s my opinion that the easiest way to address your question is to ensure that the cancelling device is set properly and to install a sound-making device/beeper, then to appreciate that our roads are wider and intersections built with greater radius than those in the UK when these cancelling devices were thought to be an improvement over the pneumatic, time-sensitive devices used in TDs, TFs and MGAs. Bob On Jan 3, 2021, at 3:24 PM, Michael MacLean > wrote: Just wondering. Is the turn signal stalk on my 69 MGB GT supposed to be self canceling? As it is right now, I have to remember to put it back in the middle position after making a turn. This is something I am used to because my Bugeye has a three position switch on the dash that you have to click back to the center position after making a turn. On the Bugeye though, it's a little bit easier because there is a huge bright green light right in front of your face on the dash. In fact, you can't ignore it at night it is so bright blinking at you. Not so with the MG. The lights are two little dim illuminated arrows. While they are somewhat noticeable at night, you just don't notice these lights in the daytime. Sorry, just sitting around on a Sunday morning and needed something to complain about. Mike MacLean 1969 MGB GT 1960 Bugeye 1956 Austin Healey BN2 Sent from AT &T Yahoo Mail on Android _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com Virusvrij. www.avast.com _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/simon.d.matthews at gmail.com -- Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Thu Jan 7 20:21:22 2021 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Thu, 7 Jan 2021 19:21:22 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] electric fan In-Reply-To: <520D08B8D65E4D918EA0A18629F9DE60@paul> References: <000001d6e454$aff9ae50$0fed0af0$@ranteer.com> <520D08B8D65E4D918EA0A18629F9DE60@paul> Message-ID: I had a US spec '74 MGB which withstood the Texas summer heat with no hint of overheating, and, when in the UK, I had to cover the oil cooler and half the radiator during winter or it would never get to normal temperature. Simon On Thu, Jan 7, 2021 at 12:58 AM PaulHunt73 wrote: > > Some add a mechanical fan, but since MGBs have been running around in desert states for 50 years it shouldn't be necessary except possibly under the harshest of conditions. People ad them here in the UK which seems ridiculous (especially at the moment ,,,), but then they could be covering-up a problem which should be investigated and fixed. > > Whilst the factory thermostats were set to 90C, aftermarket types often have a variable control. This means that factory systems have a rise on the temp gauge before the fan cuts in, when many seem paranoid bout probably because they are used to modern cars which don't do that. So they set them to the stat temp to try and keep the temp gauge at a fixed point regardless of conditions. > > The bottom line is that if everything is working as it should be, you shouldn't need additional cooling. > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: dave > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2021 5:52 PM > Subject: [Mgs] electric fan > > Who uses an electric fan as an add on to the mechanical one? What temperature does it kick in? > > ________________________________ > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/simon.d.matthews at gmail.com From britfan1 at epix.net Sat Jan 9 10:00:24 2021 From: britfan1 at epix.net (S.Carr) Date: Sat, 9 Jan 2021 12:00:24 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] seat back adjustment Message-ID: The driver?s seat back on my ?71 B/GT will not stay where it is set. Anything more than moderate pressure will throw it backwards. Clearly the teeth on the adjuster are badly worn. Any advice for dealing with this? We don?t want to strip the upholstery off until we know what might be done to fix the problem. TIA, Sarah Carr ?71 B/GT in PA Sent from Mail for Windows -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Sun Jan 10 02:19:56 2021 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (h.duinhoven at planet.nl) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2021 10:19:56 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] seat back adjustment In-Reply-To: <20210109170234.42B99A0C22@autox.team.net> References: <20210109170234.42B99A0C22@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <002801d6e731$c35464b0$49fd2e10$@planet.nl> Perhaps the lever mechanics need lubrication. If the lever tooth do not come fully in gear with the fixed gear teeth, the construction will slip. Regrettably access to the inside mechanics needs to remove the vinyl backrest upholstery. Perhaps you can try to spray some lubrication along the hole of the adjustment lever and so trying to lubricate. That also will lubricate the shaft of the lever itself. Hope it helps. Cheers, Hans 71 BGT hybernating Van: Mgs Namens S.Carr Verzonden: zaterdag 9 januari 2021 18:00 Aan: MGs Onderwerp: [Mgs] seat back adjustment The driver?s seat back on my ?71 B/GT will not stay where it is set. Anything more than moderate pressure will throw it backwards. Clearly the teeth on the adjuster are badly worn. Any advice for dealing with this? We don?t want to strip the upholstery off until we know what might be done to fix the problem. TIA, Sarah Carr ?71 B/GT in PA Sent from Mail for Windows -- Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Sun Jan 10 02:20:57 2021 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2021 09:20:57 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] seat back adjustment References: <20210109170239.02F9AA0C3D@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <403B35B536454FBF9D51EEA8720BEB8E@paul> Sounds exactly like the problem I had. There is a pin where the back pivots against the base that holds the teeth in mesh, and that had broken away on mine. Unfortunately I didn't discover it until the seats had been recovered and were back in, so had to live with it. Next time I recovered them (the previous covers were rubbish) I found the problem and welded a cut-down bolt in its place, and all has been well since. Ironically I then discovered that the part is visible with the covers on, and could have been repaired the first time had I known where the problem was. More info with pictures here http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/scover.htm#4 PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- The driver?s seat back on my ?71 B/GT will not stay where it is set. Anything more than moderate pressure will throw it backwards. Clearly the teeth on the adjuster are badly worn. Any advice for dealing with this? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From allen.k.hess at gmail.com Sun Jan 10 12:24:28 2021 From: allen.k.hess at gmail.com (Allen Hess) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2021 14:24:28 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] seat back adjustment In-Reply-To: <403B35B536454FBF9D51EEA8720BEB8E@paul> References: <403B35B536454FBF9D51EEA8720BEB8E@paul> Message-ID: Paul, thanks for this and the web photos. I did my seats last year and sometime later I found a pin on the garage floor. Had no idea where it came, though similar to pins in the top frame. It?s still on the workbench and now on my to do list for Spring. Allen > On Jan 10, 2021, at 4:20 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote: > > ? > Sounds exactly like the problem I had. There is a pin where the back pivots against the base that holds the teeth in mesh, and that had broken away on mine. Unfortunately I didn't discover it until the seats had been recovered and were back in, so had to live with it. Next time I recovered them (the previous covers were rubbish) I found the problem and welded a cut-down bolt in its place, and all has been well since. Ironically I then discovered that the part is visible with the covers on, and could have been repaired the first time had I known where the problem was. More info with pictures here http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/scover.htm#4 > > PaulH. > ----- Original Message ----- > > The driver?s seat back on my ?71 B/GT will not stay where it is set. Anything more than moderate pressure will throw it backwards. Clearly the teeth on the adjuster are badly worn. Any advice for dealing with this? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Jan 10 14:32:50 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2021 21:32:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Mgs] Fuel Pump? References: <579080298.451759.1610314370698.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <579080298.451759.1610314370698@mail.yahoo.com> I went to In N Out for lunch today.? The line was very long so I had to inch forward and was stopped numerous times for a few minutes in between.? The fuel pump on my 69 GT started pumping furiously like I was running out of gas while stopped halfway through the line.? The car was still running.? I got up to the first window to pay and the idle dropped to less than 500 rpm.? In a minute or so later the engine just quit.? There is over a half tank of gas in the car.? I tried starting it several times, but it would just fire and die.? After several attempts the car started again, all the while the fuel pump was going like mad.? After getting out of the line the fuel pump slowed down like normal and you did not hear it after what I assume was a full float bowl.? No issues going home the 4 or 5 miles.? Does that sound like my fuel pump is going out or the tank pickup is clogged?Mike MacLean1969 MGB GT1960 Bugeye?1956 Austin Healey BN2 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mgbobh at gmail.com Sun Jan 10 15:51:06 2021 From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2021 17:51:06 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Fuel Pump? In-Reply-To: <579080298.451759.1610314370698@mail.yahoo.com> References: <579080298.451759.1610314370698.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <579080298.451759.1610314370698@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi Mike, Furious pumping as you describe it sounds like an air leak on suction side of the pump to me. It would not be audible when you were driving. If the tank pick-up is clogged, I do not believe the pump would be able to work quickly, if at all. You could try to simulate the condition at In N Out by disconnecting fuel line at the carb connection and pumping a couple of quarts into a container. It should show a steady pump,pump,pump with no air bubbles. As the pump is cooled by fuel passing through it, this test will not harm the pump. Bob > On Jan 10, 2021, at 4:32 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > > I went to In N Out for lunch today. The line was very long so I had to inch forward and was stopped numerous times for a few minutes in between. The fuel pump on my 69 GT started pumping furiously like I was running out of gas while stopped halfway through the line. The car was still running. I got up to the first window to pay and the idle dropped to less than 500 rpm. In a minute or so later the engine just quit. There is over a half tank of gas in the car. I tried starting it several times, but it would just fire and die. After several attempts the car started again, all the while the fuel pump was going like mad. After getting out of the line the fuel pump slowed down like normal and you did not hear it after what I assume was a full float bowl. No issues going home the 4 or 5 miles. Does that sound like my fuel pump is going out or the tank pickup is clogged? > Mike MacLean > 1969 MGB GT > 1960 Bugeye > 1956 Austin Healey BN2 > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Mon Jan 11 01:29:15 2021 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2021 08:29:15 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Fuel Pump? References: <579080298.451759.1610314370698.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <579080298.451759.1610314370698@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3997AA76ACB3419592A7386F425A0145@paul> Could be several things, but unless it was pumping fuel onto the ground it's more likely to be associated with the pump itself. An air leak on the suction side is unlikely to seal itself again, for more than a couple of minutes anyway. A blockage does allow the pump to pump more rapidly than when pumping fuel, but not as rapidly as when it's not pumping fuel for other reasons e.g. valve stuck open or pumping air. As the idle dropped, and only cut out a minute or so later, the implication is that the fuel supply was greatly reduced, not cut off altogether at the outset. It could be the one-way valve in the pump inlet allowing fuel to be pushed back towards the tank instead of the carbs, possibly dirt although there should be filters there - in an original SU anyway. A delivery check is the thing to do, remove a pipe from a carb, direct it into a container and turn on the ignition. It should deliver a minimum of one Imperial pint per minute, and in practice double that, in a continuous stream of pulses with minimal bubbling. Bubbling especially variable implies a suction side air leak, without that hesitation with the pump speeding up implies the valve is not sealing. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- ... The fuel pump on my 69 GT started pumping furiously like I was running out of gas while stopped halfway through the line. The car was still running. I got up to the first window to pay and the idle dropped to less than 500 rpm. In a minute or so later the engine just quit. There is over a half tank of gas in the car. I tried starting it several times, but it would just fire and die. After several attempts the car started again, all the while the fuel pump was going like mad. After getting out of the line the fuel pump slowed down like normal and you did not hear it after what I assume was a full float bowl. No issues going home the 4 or 5 miles. Does that sound like my fuel pump is going out or the tank pickup is clogged? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com Mon Jan 11 11:43:05 2021 From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2021 18:43:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Mgs] Gauge Rebuilding In-Reply-To: <2028554151.979175.1610390466978@mail.yahoo.com> References: <2028554151.979175.1610390466978.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2028554151.979175.1610390466978@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <86871739.984849.1610390585355@mail.yahoo.com> I hope this may help some of you looking for sources for rebuilding gauges.? I recently had the tachometer in my 1967 Morgan 4/4 rebuilt by Nisonger Instruments.? The tach was kind of ratty looking and the calibration was off by a factor of 2.? When it came back it looked like a new gauge.? They had replaced the lens and chrome bezel and fixed the calibration problem.? In addition, they also converted it over so that if I ever decide to replace my points distributor with an electronic ignition system, the tach will work correctly. When I received the tach, I was confused by the wiring instructions.? It was much simpler, and did not use some of the old parts.? I called Peter Bayer, and he was very helpful in walking me through the steps of the new wiring system.? With that bit of help, I installed it and WOW, it's great having a tach again that really shows the true engine speed. I'm not trying to tell anybody who to use, just giving my impression of a job well done.? I have used Nisonger for instrument rebuilding for over 30 years, with similar results. Best regards, Jack -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon Jan 11 17:49:55 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2021 00:49:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Mgs] Fuel Pump? In-Reply-To: <3997AA76ACB3419592A7386F425A0145@paul> References: <579080298.451759.1610314370698.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <579080298.451759.1610314370698@mail.yahoo.com> <3997AA76ACB3419592A7386F425A0145@paul> Message-ID: <1998855354.961393.1610412595739@mail.yahoo.com> After a cursory inspection today I found a non SU type electric pump.? Looks like a large Facet type, but I can't be sure.? I also found that there are no filters anywhere between the tank to the Weber.? I removed the cylindrical mesh filter in the Weber and it was absolutely clean.? So I started it up cold and for the first time right after start it idled a little over 500 rpm.? Usually with the jets (probably wrong ones) in the Weber startups have not been under 1000 rpm at idle in the past.? The pump was clicking away as normal.? It has rubber type fuel hose on either side of the pump which should not present a problem.? Don't want to, but might have to drop the fuel tank and have a look see. Mike MacLean On Monday, January 11, 2021, 12:30:08 AM PST, PaulHunt73 wrote: Could be several things, but unless it was pumping fuel onto the ground it's more likely to be associated with the pump itself.?An air leak on the suction side is unlikely to seal itself again, for more than a couple of minutes anyway.? A blockage does allow the pump to pump more rapidly than when pumping fuel,?but not as rapidly as when it's not pumping?fuel for other reasons?e.g. valve stuck open or pumping air.?As the idle dropped, and only cut out a minute or so later, the implication is that the fuel supply was greatly reduced, not cut off altogether at the outset.?It could be the one-way valve in the pump inlet allowing fuel to be pushed back towards the tank instead of the carbs, possibly dirt although there should be filters there - in an original SU anyway.?A delivery check is the thing to do, remove a pipe from a carb, direct it into a container and turn on the ignition.? It should deliver a minimum of one Imperial pint per minute, and in practice double that, in a continuous stream of pulses with minimal bubbling.? Bubbling especially variable implies a suction side air leak, without that hesitation with the pump speeding up implies the valve is not sealing.?PaulH.?? ----- Original Message ----- ... The fuel pump on my 69 GT started pumping furiously like I was running out of gas while stopped halfway through the line.? The car was still running.? I got up to the first window to pay and the idle dropped to less than 500 rpm.? In a minute or so later the engine just quit.? There is over a half tank of gas in the car.? I tried starting it several times, but it would just fire and die.? After several attempts the car started again, all the while the fuel pump was going like mad.? After getting out of the line the fuel pump slowed down like normal and you did not hear it after what I assume was a full float bowl.? No issues going home the 4 or 5 miles.? Does that sound like my fuel pump is going out or the tank pickup is clogged? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Tue Jan 12 01:29:27 2021 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2021 08:29:27 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Fuel Pump? References: <579080298.451759.1610314370698.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <579080298.451759.1610314370698@mail.yahoo.com> <3997AA76ACB3419592A7386F425A0145@paul> <1998855354.961393.1610412595739@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1FA591B252F045159DF4A391FD664AAC@paul> AFAIK Facet click away all the time unlike the SU design which only clicks on demand. There are Hardi types which look exactly like the SU, and plastic-bodied Moprod which do not look the same but mount and connect in the same way and operate like an SU. Both those, and the later SUs, are 'pointless' pumps and I've had problems with the Moprod where it started short-stroking and causing fuel starvation even though it was clicking away, and I just had to wait until it decided to start working properly again. After two or three bouts of that I junked it and fitted a pukka SU - with points, at least with those a clout usually gets them going again. What filters there are from the factory are internal on HS cars - tank pickup and inside the pump, HIF cars have one just before the carbs. I don't think dropping the tank will show much, although if you drain enough out and remove the gauge sender and tip it on end you may be able to see the pickup - if there are no baffles. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael MacLean To: PaulHunt73 ; Mglist Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2021 12:49 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fuel Pump? After a cursory inspection today I found a non SU type electric pump. Looks like a large Facet type, but I can't be sure. I also found that there are no filters anywhere between the tank to the Weber. I removed the cylindrical mesh filter in the Weber and it was absolutely clean. So I started it up cold and for the first time right after start it idled a little over 500 rpm. Usually with the jets (probably wrong ones) in the Weber startups have not been under 1000 rpm at idle in the past. The pump was clicking away as normal. It has rubber type fuel hose on either side of the pump which should not present a problem. Don't want to, but might have to drop the fuel tank and have a look see. Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pchastnow at gmail.com Sun Jan 3 14:47:04 2021 From: pchastnow at gmail.com (Peter Chast) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 16:47:04 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Turn Signal Stalk In-Reply-To: <20210103213536.A1E42A0B1C@autox.team.net> References: <898287339.6686118.1609705496839.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <898287339.6686118.1609705496839@mail.yahoo.com> <20210103213536.A1E42A0B1C@autox.team.net> Message-ID: I repaired it in a 60's midget in the past. I made the trip bit of HDPE I had laying around... A little finicky but doable. I cleaned the contacts at the same time. Virus-free. www.avast.com <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 4:35 PM S.Carr wrote: > Yes, they should self-cancel. At least with my ?71, it helps to drop the > steering column (only a few inches, but it helps) to remove the clamshell > casing around the pair of stalks?we just replaced the left-hand unit on my > car, as the high beam setting didn?t work. Installing the new unit was NOT > easy?. > > > > Sarah Carr > > ?71 B/GT in PA > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/pchastnow at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From charleyrob at gmail.com Sun Jan 3 15:00:15 2021 From: charleyrob at gmail.com (Robinson Charley) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 17:00:15 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Turn Signal Stalk In-Reply-To: <20210103213546.CAEA4A0B4A@autox.team.net> References: <898287339.6686118.1609705496839.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <898287339.6686118.1609705496839@mail.yahoo.com> <20210103213546.CAEA4A0B4A@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <85FB72CB-D4FA-42C5-8C80-4CA467CD6F95@gmail.com> yes they should self cancel. There is a mechanism behind the steering wheel that engages with the turn signal switch when you turn the wheel and then when your straighten up again it pulls the switch back to the middle position. I did this on an 80 B several years ago but don?t remember all the procedures. The mechanism had been installed upside down. I found a tutorial for the process on the internet. A google search should turn up some helpful info. > On Jan 3, 2021, at 4:34 PM, S.Carr wrote: > > Yes, they should self-cancel. At least with my ?71, it helps to drop the steering column (only a few inches, but it helps) to remove the clamshell casing around the pair of stalks?we just replaced the left-hand unit on my car, as the high beam setting didn?t work. Installing the new unit was NOT easy?. > > Sarah Carr > ?71 B/GT in PA > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charleyrob at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Mon Jan 4 08:51:49 2021 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2021 07:51:49 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Turn Signal Stalk In-Reply-To: <001f01d6e279$327f92f0$977eb8d0$@planet.nl> References: <898287339.6686118.1609705496839.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <898287339.6686118.1609705496839@mail.yahoo.com> <1552360315.6694128.1609714741621@mail.yahoo.com> <001f01d6e279$327f92f0$977eb8d0$@planet.nl> Message-ID: Citroens of that era needed a loud warning, because the indicators were not self-cancelling. Simon On Mon, Jan 4, 2021 at 1:10 AM wrote: > The early seventies Citro?n 2CV had a very loud almost deafening click > sound. Nobody forgot to cancel the stalk. > > > > Cheers, Hans > > ?71 BGT > > > > *Van:* Mgs *Namens *Michael MacLean > *Verzonden:* zondag 3 januari 2021 23:59 > *Aan:* Robert's New iPad > *CC:* Mglist > *Onderwerp:* Re: [Mgs] Turn Signal Stalk > > > > The "beeper" is a great idea. > > Mike M > > > > On Sunday, January 3, 2021, 2:41:47 PM PST, Robert's New iPad < > mgbobh at gmail.com> wrote: > > > > > > Hi Mike, > > It is supposed to be self-cancelling, though that does require about > 1/4 turn of the steering wheel to engage the cancelling mechanism. > > If you remove the steering column cover, a bit of a trick in itself, > you will see from the left the steering column. On it should be a black > spring clip that has a squared bump shape. That bump should be on same > plane as the ?C? shaped plastic claws on the turn signal control. With > wheels straight ahead and the steering wheel centred, that bump should be > mid-way between the two claws. > > The way it is supposed to work is that when the turn lever is set for > turns, the spring clip, as it swings around on the column, contacts one of > the C claws, dislodging it from where it is parked, and the system cancels. > > On most roads in CT, the radius of turns at intersections is great > enough that the self-cancel does not engage. I put an inexpensive beeper > into the circuit at the flasher unit, as the little indicator lights are > dim. > > Some have fitted brighter LEDs in place of the signal indicators. Having > bloodied myself sufficiently when installing LEDs into the instruments, I > will leave the signal indicators to some distant time in the future when I > might have the dashboard out. > > It?s my opinion that the easiest way to address your question is to > ensure that the cancelling device is set properly and to install a > sound-making device/beeper, then to appreciate that our roads are wider and > intersections built with greater radius than those in the UK when these > cancelling devices were thought to be an improvement over the pneumatic, > time-sensitive devices used in TDs, TFs and MGAs. > > Bob > > > > > On Jan 3, 2021, at 3:24 PM, Michael MacLean > wrote: > > Just wondering. Is the turn signal stalk on my 69 MGB GT supposed to be > self canceling? As it is right now, I have to remember to put it back in > the middle position after making a turn. This is something I am used to > because my Bugeye has a three position switch on the dash that you have to > click back to the center position after making a turn. On the Bugeye > though, it's a little bit easier because there is a huge bright green light > right in front of your face on the dash. In fact, you can't ignore it at > night it is so bright blinking at you. Not so with the MG. The lights are > two little dim illuminated arrows. While they are somewhat noticeable at > night, you just don't notice these lights in the daytime. Sorry, just > sitting around on a Sunday morning and needed something to complain about. > > Mike MacLean > > 1969 MGB GT > > 1960 Bugeye > > 1956 Austin Healey BN2 > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com > > > > Virusvrij. > www.avast.com > > <#m_-5350170426688396703_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/simon.d.matthews at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Thu Jan 7 01:05:22 2021 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (h.duinhoven at planet.nl) Date: Thu, 7 Jan 2021 09:05:22 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Turn Signal Stalk In-Reply-To: References: <898287339.6686118.1609705496839.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <898287339.6686118.1609705496839@mail.yahoo.com> <1552360315.6694128.1609714741621@mail.yahoo.com> <001f01d6e279$327f92f0$977eb8d0$@planet.nl> Message-ID: <003501d6e4cb$d9167530$8b435f90$@planet.nl> You?re correct Simon. On top of that ? the loudness was needed, because the Citro?n 2CV makes a lot of noise by itself! I have had a 1970 2CV4 in 1974 ? was nice to drive this as a youngster. Nothing in between the driver and passenger ?. Umbrella like gearstick was in the dashboard. Cheers, Hans 71 BGT Van: Simon Matthews Verzonden: maandag 4 januari 2021 16:52 Aan: Hans Duinhoven CC: Michael MacLean ; Robert's New iPad ; Mglist Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Turn Signal Stalk Citroens of that era needed a loud warning, because the indicators were not self-cancelling. Simon On Mon, Jan 4, 2021 at 1:10 AM > wrote: The early seventies Citro?n 2CV had a very loud almost deafening click sound. Nobody forgot to cancel the stalk. Cheers, Hans ?71 BGT Van: Mgs > Namens Michael MacLean Verzonden: zondag 3 januari 2021 23:59 Aan: Robert's New iPad > CC: Mglist > Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Turn Signal Stalk The "beeper" is a great idea. Mike M On Sunday, January 3, 2021, 2:41:47 PM PST, Robert's New iPad > wrote: Hi Mike, It is supposed to be self-cancelling, though that does require about 1/4 turn of the steering wheel to engage the cancelling mechanism. If you remove the steering column cover, a bit of a trick in itself, you will see from the left the steering column. On it should be a black spring clip that has a squared bump shape. That bump should be on same plane as the ?C? shaped plastic claws on the turn signal control. With wheels straight ahead and the steering wheel centred, that bump should be mid-way between the two claws. The way it is supposed to work is that when the turn lever is set for turns, the spring clip, as it swings around on the column, contacts one of the C claws, dislodging it from where it is parked, and the system cancels. On most roads in CT, the radius of turns at intersections is great enough that the self-cancel does not engage. I put an inexpensive beeper into the circuit at the flasher unit, as the little indicator lights are dim. Some have fitted brighter LEDs in place of the signal indicators. Having bloodied myself sufficiently when installing LEDs into the instruments, I will leave the signal indicators to some distant time in the future when I might have the dashboard out. It?s my opinion that the easiest way to address your question is to ensure that the cancelling device is set properly and to install a sound-making device/beeper, then to appreciate that our roads are wider and intersections built with greater radius than those in the UK when these cancelling devices were thought to be an improvement over the pneumatic, time-sensitive devices used in TDs, TFs and MGAs. Bob On Jan 3, 2021, at 3:24 PM, Michael MacLean > wrote: Just wondering. Is the turn signal stalk on my 69 MGB GT supposed to be self canceling? As it is right now, I have to remember to put it back in the middle position after making a turn. This is something I am used to because my Bugeye has a three position switch on the dash that you have to click back to the center position after making a turn. On the Bugeye though, it's a little bit easier because there is a huge bright green light right in front of your face on the dash. In fact, you can't ignore it at night it is so bright blinking at you. Not so with the MG. The lights are two little dim illuminated arrows. While they are somewhat noticeable at night, you just don't notice these lights in the daytime. Sorry, just sitting around on a Sunday morning and needed something to complain about. Mike MacLean 1969 MGB GT 1960 Bugeye 1956 Austin Healey BN2 Sent from AT &T Yahoo Mail on Android _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com Virusvrij. www.avast.com _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/simon.d.matthews at gmail.com -- Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sat Jan 16 14:55:16 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sat, 16 Jan 2021 21:55:16 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Mgs] Spark Plug Gap References: <1370195946.221183.1610834116828.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1370195946.221183.1610834116828@mail.yahoo.com> What is the spark plug (NGK BP6ES) gap for a 1967 MGB engine? Mike MacLean1969 MGB GT1960 Bugeye1956 AUSTIN healey BN2 Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Sat Jan 16 15:09:40 2021 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Sat, 16 Jan 2021 16:09:40 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Spark Plug Gap In-Reply-To: <1370195946.221183.1610834116828@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1370195946.221183.1610834116828.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1370195946.221183.1610834116828@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I use 0.025" On Sat, Jan 16, 2021, 3:56 PM Michael MacLean wrote: > What is the spark plug (NGK BP6ES) gap for a 1967 MGB engine? > > Mike MacLean > 1969 MGB GT > 1960 Bugeye > 1956 AUSTIN healey BN2 > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richardolindsay at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mgbobh at gmail.com Sat Jan 16 17:54:13 2021 From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad) Date: Sat, 16 Jan 2021 19:54:13 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Spark Plug Gap In-Reply-To: <1370195946.221183.1610834116828@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1370195946.221183.1610834116828.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1370195946.221183.1610834116828@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <9950834B-C577-4921-BAAF-98BFA19543D7@gmail.com> Workshop manual says .025. If you have improved ignition system, you might open a bit more, but .025 will keep the engine quite happy. Bob > On Jan 16, 2021, at 4:55 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > > What is the spark plug (NGK BP6ES) gap for a 1967 MGB engine? > > Mike MacLean > 1969 MGB GT > 1960 Bugeye > 1956 AUSTIN healey BN2 > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Sat Jan 16 21:36:33 2021 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Sat, 16 Jan 2021 22:36:33 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Spark Plug Gap In-Reply-To: <9950834B-C577-4921-BAAF-98BFA19543D7@gmail.com> Message-ID: I use .035, but that's negative ground, pertronix igniter and coil -------- Original message --------From: Robert's New iPad Date: 1/16/21 6:57 PM (GMT-06:00) To: Michael MacLean Cc: Mglist Subject: Re: [Mgs] Spark Plug Gap ? ?Workshop manual says .025.? ?If you have improved ignition system, you might open a bit more, but .025 will keep the engine quite happy.BobOn Jan 16, 2021, at 4:55 PM, Michael MacLean wrote:What is the spark plug (NGK BP6ES) gap for a 1967 MGB engine?Mike MacLean1969 MGB GT1960 Bugeye1956 AUSTIN healey BN2Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android_______________________________________________Mgs at autox.team.netDonate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation ?$12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archiveUnsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From strovato at optonline.net Sat Jan 16 21:58:35 2021 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Sat, 16 Jan 2021 23:58:35 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Fuel Pump? In-Reply-To: <579080298.451759.1610314370698@mail.yahoo.com> References: <579080298.451759.1610314370698.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <579080298.451759.1610314370698@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <78.A6.32236.E64C3006@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> I don't know where you live or what the weather is like, but the whole story sounds like a classic vapor lock situation. The car runs great except in stop and go traffic, as the heat builds under the bonnet. See if the idling/inching scenario makes it happen again. Maybe some more burgers are in order! -Steve T. At 04:32 PM 1/10/2021, Michael MacLean wrote: >I went to In N Out for lunch today. The line was very long so I had >to inch forward and was stopped numerous times for a few minutes in >between. The fuel pump on my 69 GT started pumping furiously like I >was running out of gas while stopped halfway through the line. The >car was still running. I got up to the first window to pay and the >idle dropped to less than 500 rpm. In a minute or so later the >engine just quit. There is over a half tank of gas in the car. I >tried starting it several times, but it would just fire and >die. After several attempts the car started again, all the while >the fuel pump was going like mad. After getting out of the line the >fuel pump slowed down like normal and you did not hear it after what >I assume was a full float bowl. No issues going home the 4 or 5 >miles. Does that sound like my fuel pump is going out or the tank >pickup is clogged? >Mike MacLean >1969 MGB GT >1960 Bugeye > 1956 Austin Healey BN2 -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Sun Jan 17 02:35:18 2021 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Sun, 17 Jan 2021 09:35:18 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Spark Plug Gap References: <1370195946.221183.1610834116828.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1370195946.221183.1610834116828@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: 25 thou for a 25D4 distributor, 35 thou for a 45D4. ----- Original Message ----- What is the spark plug (NGK BP6ES) gap for a 1967 MGB engine? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Sun Jan 17 02:49:47 2021 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Sun, 17 Jan 2021 09:49:47 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Fuel Pump? References: <579080298.451759.1610314370698.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <579080298.451759.1610314370698@mail.yahoo.com> <78.A6.32236.E64C3006@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Message-ID: It's not possible to get vapour lock on an MGB with a standard fuel pump and carb(s) in good working order. Once the floats have dropped the float valves open and with the top of the float chamber(s) open to atmosphere (as they should be) any fuel in the lines that is being pressurised by the pump will flow in. Fuel would have to be vaporising at the rate of about 2 Imperial pints per minute which is impossible (unless the car is on fire ...) to cause the pump to chatter as described. Any vapour in the lines will be pushed out of the lines by the pump to be replaced by liquid fuel, just as when filling a dry system. The pump by itself is more than enough to 'prime' the system, nothing else is needed. Vapour lock does happen in very hot condition where you have a engine driven pump, where due to the lowered pressure in the line from the tank the fuel will boil more easily. And the cure seems to be to fit an electric pump by the tank, as pressurised fuel in the long line and the engine compartment is less likely to boil. There are videos of this being don on YouTube. Poor running and problems hot starting on an MGB in hot weather are more likely to be down to fuel expansion overflowing into the intake and causing a rich mixture, or ignition problems, but neither wouldn't be accompanied by a chattering fuel pump. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- >I don't know where you live or what the weather is like, but the whole >story sounds like a classic vapor lock situation. From britfan1 at epix.net Mon Jan 18 09:03:49 2021 From: britfan1 at epix.net (S.Carr) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2021 11:03:49 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] B/GT seat back problem - update Message-ID: Yesterday we partially dismantled the driver?s seat back on my ?71 B/GT to see why it would collapse backward with even moderate pressure. Alas the problem is not the same or as simple as Paul Hunt's?although a previous owner clearly had the same problem as Paul, since the same pin was crudely tack-welded in place on my car! Possibly from 50 years of failure to pull the adjuster lever far enough before pushing the seat backward to disengage the teeth, both sets of teeth are worn?and they're also not aligned on precisely the same plane, so they're worn at an angle. These photos were taken with the seat lying on its back. The over-all view: and a closer view of the teeth, which seem quite small for their purpose: The large round pins are fastened to an inner plate, which holds the lower set of teeth. The upper, recessed set of teeth is on a small plate riveted to the outer plate. The holes in the outer plate are oval, allowing the inner plate to slide behind the outer one when the lever is moved, pulling the teeth apart. There's a small, heavy coil spring on the inner end of the adjusting lever shaft that pulls the teeth back together when the lever is released: No parts or replacement seat frames are available new (and I'm not sure I'd want to spend the $ if they were), so now we're looking for a used driver's seat frame with a decent set of teeth------ Sarah Carr '71 B/GT in PA Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 6D21339F8F5645239DC0B5A263A32BFE.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 10661 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 1211FD0016964AC7A85B28607ACAC422.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 7496 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 0599C6449AA947A89380F2CCAE4FC3A3.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 10751 bytes Desc: not available URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Mon Jan 18 09:32:50 2021 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2021 16:32:50 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] B/GT seat back problem - update References: <20210118160431.29C25A15C2@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Those teeth do seem pronounced, even with some wear. What is the meshing-half like, although I can't remember what form they take? If they are not in line are they able to slip past one another, i.e. straightening may help? Is recline adjustment needed i.e. more than one occupant who moves it? Until a suitable replacement is found could it be locked in position with a bolt, or even welding, to enable it to be used? ----- Original Message ----- From: S.Carr To: MGs Sent: Monday, January 18, 2021 4:03 PM Subject: [Mgs] B/GT seat back problem - update Yesterday we partially dismantled the driver?s seat back on my ?71 B/GT to see why it would collapse backward with even moderate pressure. Alas the problem is not the same or as simple as Paul Hunt's?although a previous owner clearly had the same problem as Paul, since the same pin was crudely tack-welded in place on my car! Possibly from 50 years of failure to pull the adjuster lever far enough before pushing the seat backward to disengage the teeth, both sets of teeth are worn?and they're also not aligned on precisely the same plane, so they're worn at an angle. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From britfan1 at epix.net Mon Jan 18 15:28:18 2021 From: britfan1 at epix.net (S.Carr) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2021 17:28:18 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] B/GT seat back problem - update #2 In-Reply-To: References: <20210118160431.29C25A15C2@autox.team.net> Message-ID: When I said the two toothed plates were "not aligned on precisely the same plane," I meant that?viewed from on edge?they were not directly above one another. Since the plates can't be kept absolutely tight together?pushing on the adjusting lever moves them slightly (<2 mm) apart at the upper (coil spring) end?there is only about half-width contact of the teeth, and one side of the tip of each tooth is worn away at such an angle that the plates slide away from each other under pressure and the teeth won't stay in mesh. We don't see any reasonable way of getting the teeth re-cut to square the tips off, so it's look-for-another-seat-frame time (hence my next post). (Yes, we could put the seat back in, position it, take it out again, weld it, put it back in again?but the car isn?t driven in the winter, so we?ll just let it sit until we see if we can find another seat frame.) Sarah Carr '71 B/GT in PA Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: PaulHunt73 Sent: Monday, January 18, 2021 11:53 AM To: MGs; S.Carr Subject: Re: [Mgs] B/GT seat back problem - update Those teeth do seem pronounced, even with some wear.? What is the meshing-half like, although I can't remember what form they take?? If they are not in line are they able to slip past one another, i.e. straightening may help? ? Is recline adjustment needed i.e. more than one occupant who moves it?? Until a suitable replacement is found could? it be locked in position with a bolt, or even welding, to enable it to be used? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From britfan1 at epix.net Mon Jan 18 15:42:28 2021 From: britfan1 at epix.net (S.Carr) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2021 17:42:28 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGB seat-frame interchangeability? Message-ID: Does anyone have an MGB parts list that would indicate what years' seat frames are interchangeable? The Moss catalog lists frames for only 1962-68, so those are clearly different from 1969 and later. We're hoping to find a source for a used driver's seat frame, and need to know what's the same as a '71. TIA, Sarah Carr '71 B/GT in PA Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Mon Jan 18 15:59:49 2021 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2021 14:59:49 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] MGB seat-frame interchangeability? In-Reply-To: <20210118224814.F249EA0980@autox.team.net> References: <20210118224814.F249EA0980@autox.team.net> Message-ID: If you read the text in the print catalog, it says ?the basic frame was unchanged 1970-80?. The cushions, headrests, fabric and stitching pattern changed. -- Max Heim mvheim at sonic.net > On Jan 18, 2021, at 2:42 PM, S.Carr wrote: > > Does anyone have an MGB parts list that would indicate what years' seat frames are interchangeable? The Moss catalog lists frames for only 1962-68, so those are clearly different from 1969 and later. We're hoping to find a source for a used driver's seat frame, and need to know what's the same as a '71. > > TIA, > Sarah Carr > '71 B/GT in PA > > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon Jan 18 18:15:29 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2021 01:15:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Mgs] Spark Plug Socket References: <198867409.858927.1611018929514.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <198867409.858927.1611018929514@mail.yahoo.com> I tried to install new plugs in my 1969 MGB GT today. I was not successful.? I don't know what genius designed the aluminum head, but a normal spark plug socket for a 14mm spark plug does not go all the way dow to fully engage the head.? Maybe it was cast incorrectly, I don't know.? ?There is a wall in the casting right so close to all four plugs it prevents the socket from going all the way down to engage the hex of the plug.? Not sure how the DPO did it.? I tried a deep socket with thin walls.? I even tried using a wrench to get it loose.? Not enough room for that either.? What the heck?? Anyone with a aluminum head run into this?Mike MacLean1969 MGB GT1960 Bugeye1956 Austi Healey BN2 Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eric at erickson.on.net Mon Jan 18 18:23:52 2021 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2021 12:23:52 +1100 Subject: [Mgs] Spark Plug Socket In-Reply-To: <198867409.858927.1611018929514@mail.yahoo.com> References: <198867409.858927.1611018929514.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <198867409.858927.1611018929514@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: You need to find yourself a ?thin walled? socket. The last time I had to do that it meant getting a cheap one from a variety store - it hurt me to do that.. Eric 1979 MGB V8 > On 19 Jan 2021, at 12:15 pm, Michael MacLean wrote: > > I tried to install new plugs in my 1969 MGB GT today. I was not successful. I don't know what genius designed the aluminum head, but a normal spark plug socket for a 14mm spark plug does not go all the way dow to fully engage the head. Maybe it was cast incorrectly, I don't know. There is a wall in the casting right so close to all four plugs it prevents the socket from going all the way down to engage the hex of the plug. Not sure how the DPO did it. I tried a deep socket with thin walls. I even tried using a wrench to get it loose. Not enough room for that either. What the heck? Anyone with a aluminum head run into this? > Mike MacLean > 1969 MGB GT > 1960 Bugeye > 1956 Austi Healey BN2 > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eric at erickson.on.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Jan 19 00:23:06 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2021 07:23:06 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Mgs] Spark Plug Socket In-Reply-To: References: <198867409.858927.1611018929514.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <198867409.858927.1611018929514@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1032796566.926302.1611040986291@mail.yahoo.com> Bought a thin walled socket on Amazon.? A 12 point that should work.? The "points" of the inside of the socket are very close to the outer diameter.? Should work.? Be here tomorrow.? Just never needed one of these before.? You guys that work on Japanese cars should already know about this.? I have a Honda Accord and my regular spark plug socket fits fine.? I had no idea.? Thanks to the list.Mike MacLean1969 MGB GT1960 Bugeye1956 Austin Healey BN2 On Monday, January 18, 2021, 5:24:02 PM PST, Eric wrote: You need to find yourself a ?thin walled? socket. ?The last time I had to do that it meant getting a cheap one from a variety store - it hurt me to do that.. Eric1979 MGB V8 On 19 Jan 2021, at 12:15 pm, Michael MacLean wrote: I tried to install new plugs in my 1969 MGB GT today. I was not successful.? I don't know what genius designed the aluminum head, but a normal spark plug socket for a 14mm spark plug does not go all the way dow to fully engage the head.? Maybe it was cast incorrectly, I don't know.? ?There is a wall in the casting right so close to all four plugs it prevents the socket from going all the way down to engage the hex of the plug.? Not sure how the DPO did it.? I tried a deep socket with thin walls.? I even tried using a wrench to get it loose.? Not enough room for that either.? What the heck?? Anyone with a aluminum head run into this?Mike MacLean1969 MGB GT1960 Bugeye1956 Austi Healey BN2 Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android_______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eric at erickson.on.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: socket.png Type: image/png Size: 471280 bytes Desc: not available URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Tue Jan 19 01:34:43 2021 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2021 08:34:43 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Spark Plug Socket References: <198867409.858927.1611018929514.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <198867409.858927.1611018929514@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <874CAE90CCB8487493FA885F49DBC155@paul> I had the same problem with the V8 (aluminium heads) using the one from a 1/2" drive socket set which measured 1.1" OD, but did have one that fitted at 1.087". When I changed the heads that did not fit either, but a 3/8" drive socket did at 1.070". Be very careful tightening them, after decades of doing plugs in cast-iron heads I loosened and tightened the same way, and after many years and tens of thousands of miles stripped a thread. Repaired that but subsequently stripped another, hence changing the heads and a lot more circumspect about tightening - reputedly 15-22 ft lb for gasket seal plugs as opposed to 26 to 30 in cast iron. Another issue is said to be differential expansion, another recommendation is to only remove them fully cold or fully hot, not part warm. Another consideration is applying anti-seize to the threads - some recommend it, but only if the plug body is black or plain steel. If applied to pre-coated or nickel-alloy bodied plugs the torque should be reduced by 30%-40%. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- I tried to install new plugs in my 1969 MGB GT today. I was not successful. I don't know what genius designed the aluminum head, but a normal spark plug socket for a 14mm spark plug does not go all the way dow to fully engage the head. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Tue Jan 19 05:22:53 2021 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2021 06:22:53 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Spark Plug Socket In-Reply-To: <874CAE90CCB8487493FA885F49DBC155@paul> References: <198867409.858927.1611018929514.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <198867409.858927.1611018929514@mail.yahoo.com> <874CAE90CCB8487493FA885F49DBC155@paul> Message-ID: Always excellent advice for all of us, Paul. Thank you. Rick On Tue, Jan 19, 2021, 4:59 AM PaulHunt73 wrote: > I had the same problem with the V8 (aluminium heads) using the one from a > 1/2" drive socket set which measured 1.1" OD, but did have one that fitted > at 1.087". When I changed the heads that did not fit either, but a 3/8" > drive socket did at 1.070". > > Be very careful tightening them, after decades of doing plugs in cast-iron > heads I loosened and tightened the same way, and after many years and tens > of thousands of miles stripped a thread. Repaired that but subsequently > stripped another, hence changing the heads and a lot more circumspect about > tightening - reputedly 15-22 ft lb for gasket seal plugs as opposed to 26 > to 30 in cast iron. Another issue is said to be differential expansion, > another recommendation is to only remove them fully cold or fully hot, not > part warm. Another consideration is applying anti-seize to the threads - > some recommend it, but only if the plug body is black or plain steel. If > applied to pre-coated or nickel-alloy bodied plugs the torque should be > reduced by 30%-40%. > > PaulH. > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > I tried to install new plugs in my 1969 MGB GT today. I was not > successful. I don't know what genius designed the aluminum head, but a > normal spark plug socket for a 14mm spark plug does not go all the way dow > to fully engage the head. > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richardolindsay at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Tue Jan 19 05:50:02 2021 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2021 12:50:02 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Spark Plug Socket References: <198867409.858927.1611018929514.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <198867409.858927.1611018929514@mail.yahoo.com> <874CAE90CCB8487493FA885F49DBC155@paul> Message-ID: My pleasure, having threads strip is pretty traumatic. For several years I was running around with a box-spanner welded to a metal plate that was secured by two exhaust manifold bolts (V8 remember) to hold the plugs in! It worked though http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/images/plugstrip4.jpg ----- Original Message ----- Always excellent advice for all of us, Paul. Thank you. Rick -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ccrobins at ktc.com Tue Jan 19 14:56:02 2021 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles Robinson) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2021 15:56:02 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Spark Plug Socket In-Reply-To: References: <198867409.858927.1611018929514.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <198867409.858927.1611018929514@mail.yahoo.com> <874CAE90CCB8487493FA885F49DBC155@paul> Message-ID: Now that's innovative!? Here in TX, USA, that's called "shade-tree genius." CR On 1/19/2021 6:50 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote: > ? > My pleasure, having threads strip is pretty traumatic.? For?several > years?I was running around with a?box-spanner welded to a metal plate > that was secured by two exhaust manifold bolts (V8 remember) to hold > the plugs in!? It worked though > http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/images/plugstrip4.jpg > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > Always excellent advice for all of us, Paul. Thank you. > > Rick > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Fri Jan 29 10:12:38 2021 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2021 11:12:38 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] bleed screws Message-ID: <000901d6f661$f2882e80$d7988b80$@ranteer.com> I have a 56 mga, and the wrench that fits the bleed screws for the brake cylinders (drums all around) are whitworth. And the thread doesn't match either metric or SAE on my thread checker so I am assuming that is also metric. Not knowing the true history or this car I am assuming that it came that way. But I also realize that maybe someone grabbed the brake cylinders off a TD or even a TC and used those. Is there any corroborating evidence out there one way or the other? It seems original in many ways; has a lot of the weird stuff the early cars came with if that is any help. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Fri Jan 29 10:55:28 2021 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2021 09:55:28 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] bleed screws In-Reply-To: <000901d6f661$f2882e80$d7988b80$@ranteer.com> References: <000901d6f661$f2882e80$d7988b80$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <62099FD3-E7AB-4D25-A463-3CAD58081F12@sonic.net> I am pretty sure there would be no factory metric parts on the MGA. But there is information about this online. Barney Gaylord?s site probably has what you need. -- Max Heim '66 MGB > On Jan 29, 2021, at 9:12 AM, dave wrote: > > I have a 56 mga, and the wrench that fits the bleed screws for the brake cylinders (drums all around) are whitworth. And the thread doesn?t match either metric or SAE on my thread checker so I am assuming that is also metric. > > Not knowing the true history or this car I am assuming that it came that way. But I also realize that maybe someone grabbed the brake cylinders off a TD or even a TC and used those. > > Is there any corroborating evidence out there one way or the other? > > It seems original in many ways; has a lot of the weird stuff the early cars came with if that is any help. > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paul at ece.rochester.edu Fri Jan 29 12:14:55 2021 From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Osborne, Paul) Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2021 19:14:55 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] [EXT] bleed screws In-Reply-To: <62099FD3-E7AB-4D25-A463-3CAD58081F12@sonic.net> References: <000901d6f661$f2882e80$d7988b80$@ranteer.com> <62099FD3-E7AB-4D25-A463-3CAD58081F12@sonic.net> Message-ID: <664541FE-6D01-4717-BACD-CE4A31B8D077@ur.rochester.edu> Correct, there are no metric on an MGA Paul Osborne Department of Electrical and Computer Eng University of Rochester 201 Hopeman Building RC Rochester NY 14627 585-275-5226 On Jan 29, 2021, at 12:55 PM, Max Heim > wrote: I am pretty sure there would be no factory metric parts on the MGA. But there is information about this online. Barney Gaylord?s site probably has what you need. -- Max Heim '66 MGB On Jan 29, 2021, at 9:12 AM, dave > wrote: I have a 56 mga, and the wrench that fits the bleed screws for the brake cylinders (drums all around) are whitworth. And the thread doesn?t match either metric or SAE on my thread checker so I am assuming that is also metric. Not knowing the true history or this car I am assuming that it came that way. But I also realize that maybe someone grabbed the brake cylinders off a TD or even a TC and used those. Is there any corroborating evidence out there one way or the other? It seems original in many ways; has a lot of the weird stuff the early cars came with if that is any help. _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=FyDRHAkptySKd6Zvj3OoHfk8CjmrjqaxhQZIFe6MkNU&s=6bpstzmS5pnQvgT8EzmW1I26GLTza9INCejvdQuHFhs&e= Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_mgs&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=FyDRHAkptySKd6Zvj3OoHfk8CjmrjqaxhQZIFe6MkNU&s=ED3HA7Y5VSGA9W4fdTmLUbNSgJcrOv1jvxQFbw9Msn4&e= https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=FyDRHAkptySKd6Zvj3OoHfk8CjmrjqaxhQZIFe6MkNU&s=5aVX2IWHzhZ83G627ZoHjVNV-ebvb7CViZorv8fxVKI&e= Unsubscribe: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_mgs_paul-40ece.rochester.edu&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=FyDRHAkptySKd6Zvj3OoHfk8CjmrjqaxhQZIFe6MkNU&s=hUGcu3KJiCtMm8uyNGgwg1eYqR165l6rqof9-Smga2c&e= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Fri Jan 29 12:22:10 2021 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave at ranteer.com) Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2021 12:22:10 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] [EXT] bleed screws Message-ID: <20210129122210.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.00e6c5f320.wbe@email26.godaddy.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Jan 29 12:35:26 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2021 11:35:26 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] bleed screws In-Reply-To: <000901d6f661$f2882e80$d7988b80$@ranteer.com> References: <000901d6f661$f2882e80$d7988b80$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: No original metric anything on mga. Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Fri, Jan 29, 2021, 9:13 AM dave wrote: > I have a 56 mga, and the wrench that fits the bleed screws for the brake > cylinders (drums all around) are whitworth. And the thread doesn?t match > either metric or SAE on my thread checker so I am assuming that is also > metric. > > > > Not knowing the true history or this car I am assuming that it came that > way. But I also realize that maybe someone grabbed the brake cylinders off > a TD or even a TC and used those. > > > > Is there any corroborating evidence out there one way or the other? > > > > It seems original in many ways; has a lot of the weird stuff the early > cars came with if that is any help. > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From difejo1 at gmail.com Fri Jan 29 13:06:21 2021 From: difejo1 at gmail.com (John DiFede) Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2021 15:06:21 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] [EXT] bleed screws In-Reply-To: <20210129122210.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.00e6c5f320.wbe@email26.godaddy.com> References: <20210129122210.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.00e6c5f320.wbe@email26.godaddy.com> Message-ID: If the wheel cylinder was replaced there?s no telling what you might have. On my mgb at one point the rear cylinders each had a different size bleed screw. I needed a different wrench for each one. Your threads could be metric if the cylinder was replaced and the replacement was manufactured in the Far East. Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 29, 2021, at 2:22 PM, dave at ranteer.com wrote: > > ? > I have pretty thoroughly searched Barney's site. someone please correct me, but i have found no discussion on threads on bleed screws on MGAs. > > the following is from Cecelia at Scarborough Faire. Leads me to believe that mine have been mucked with to some extent (no surprise there) > > > On the MGA wheel cylinders ONLY the early REAR wheel cyls had the 20 tpi BSF Whitworth bleeder screws which we also offer in our catalog on the same page (M71E), but be aware that the bleeder screws go into that solid brass banjo M96E Adaptor NOT into the wheel cylinder itself. What goes into the wheel cylinder is our part M97 Banjo bolt which is also 3/8-20tpi BSF Whitworth. > > On the front wheel cylinders the M71 Bleeder screws are 3/8-24 tpi, NOT Whitworth. > >> Paul Osborne >> Department of Electrical and Computer Eng >> University of Rochester >> 201 Hopeman Building RC >> Rochester NY 14627 > 585-275-5226 > > > > > > > > >> On Jan 29, 2021, at 12:55 PM, Max Heim wrote: >> >> I am pretty sure there would be no factory metric parts on the MGA. But there is information about this online. Barney Gaylord?s site probably has what you need. >> >> -- >> Max Heim >> '66 MGB >> >>> On Jan 29, 2021, at 9:12 AM, dave wrote: >>> >>> I have a 56 mga, and the wrench that fits the bleed screws for the brake cylinders (drums all around) are whitworth. And the thread doesn?t match either metric or SAE on my thread checker so I am assuming that is also metric. >>> >>> Not knowing the true history or this car I am assuming that it came that way. But I also realize that maybe someone grabbed the brake cylinders off a TD or even a TC and used those. >>> >>> Is there any corroborating evidence out there one way or the other? >>> >>> It seems original in many ways; has a lot of the weird stuff the early cars came with if that is any help. >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=FyDRHAkptySKd6Zvj3OoHfk8CjmrjqaxhQZIFe6MkNU&s=6bpstzmS5pnQvgT8EzmW1I26GLTza9INCejvdQuHFhs&e= >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_mgs&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=FyDRHAkptySKd6Zvj3OoHfk8CjmrjqaxhQZIFe6MkNU&s=ED3HA7Y5VSGA9W4fdTmLUbNSgJcrOv1jvxQFbw9Msn4&e= https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=FyDRHAkptySKd6Zvj3OoHfk8CjmrjqaxhQZIFe6MkNU&s=5aVX2IWHzhZ83G627ZoHjVNV-ebvb7CViZorv8fxVKI&e= >> >> Unsubscribe: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_mgs_paul-40ece.rochester.edu&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=FyDRHAkptySKd6Zvj3OoHfk8CjmrjqaxhQZIFe6MkNU&s=hUGcu3KJiCtMm8uyNGgwg1eYqR165l6rqof9-Smga2c&e= > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dave at ranteer.com > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/difejo1 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Fri Jan 29 14:07:53 2021 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2021 13:07:53 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] [EXT] bleed screws In-Reply-To: References: <20210129122210.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.00e6c5f320.wbe@email26.godaddy.com> Message-ID: <0732A270-1EDE-4329-894D-47AAABC6AE23@sonic.net> Sadly, that is true. I recently bought cylinders for a vintage Plymouth and found the bleeder nuts were metric 7mm (a size not included in most metric wrench sets, and of course not at all in my Plymouth?s tool kit ? plus ridiculously small for a bleeder). -- Max Heim '66 MGB > On Jan 29, 2021, at 12:06 PM, John DiFede wrote: > > If the wheel cylinder was replaced there?s no telling what you might have. On my mgb at one point the rear cylinders each had a different size bleed screw. I needed a different wrench for each one. > > Your threads could be metric if the cylinder was replaced and the replacement was manufactured in the Far East. > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Jan 29, 2021, at 2:22 PM, dave at ranteer.com wrote: >> >> ? >> I have pretty thoroughly searched Barney's site. someone please correct me, but i have found no discussion on threads on bleed screws on MGAs. >> >> the following is from Cecelia at Scarborough Faire. Leads me to believe that mine have been mucked with to some extent (no surprise there) >> >> >> On the MGA wheel cylinders ONLY the early REAR wheel cyls had the 20 tpi BSF Whitworth bleeder screws which we also offer in our catalog on the same page (M71E), but be aware that the bleeder screws go into that solid brass banjo M96E Adaptor NOT into the wheel cylinder itself. What goes into the wheel cylinder is our part M97 Banjo bolt which is also 3/8-20tpi BSF Whitworth. >> >> On the front wheel cylinders the M71 Bleeder screws are 3/8-24 tpi, NOT Whitworth. >> >>> Paul Osborne >>> Department of Electrical and Computer Eng >>> University of Rochester >>> 201 Hopeman Building RC >>> Rochester NY 14627 >> 585-275-5226 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >>> On Jan 29, 2021, at 12:55 PM, Max Heim > wrote: >>> >>> I am pretty sure there would be no factory metric parts on the MGA. But there is information about this online. Barney Gaylord?s site probably has what you need. >>> >>> -- >>> Max Heim >>> '66 MGB >>> >>>> On Jan 29, 2021, at 9:12 AM, dave > wrote: >>>> >>>> I have a 56 mga, and the wrench that fits the bleed screws for the brake cylinders (drums all around) are whitworth. And the thread doesn?t match either metric or SAE on my thread checker so I am assuming that is also metric. >>>> >>>> Not knowing the true history or this car I am assuming that it came that way. But I also realize that maybe someone grabbed the brake cylinders off a TD or even a TC and used those. >>>> >>>> Is there any corroborating evidence out there one way or the other? >>>> >>>> It seems original in many ways; has a lot of the weird stuff the early cars came with if that is any help. >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> >>>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>> >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>> Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=FyDRHAkptySKd6Zvj3OoHfk8CjmrjqaxhQZIFe6MkNU&s=6bpstzmS5pnQvgT8EzmW1I26GLTza9INCejvdQuHFhs&e = >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_mgs&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=FyDRHAkptySKd6Zvj3OoHfk8CjmrjqaxhQZIFe6MkNU&s=ED3HA7Y5VSGA9W4fdTmLUbNSgJcrOv1jvxQFbw9Msn4&e = https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=FyDRHAkptySKd6Zvj3OoHfk8CjmrjqaxhQZIFe6MkNU&s=5aVX2IWHzhZ83G627ZoHjVNV-ebvb7CViZorv8fxVKI&e = >>> >>> Unsubscribe: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_mgs_paul-40ece.rochester.edu&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=FyDRHAkptySKd6Zvj3OoHfk8CjmrjqaxhQZIFe6MkNU&s=hUGcu3KJiCtMm8uyNGgwg1eYqR165l6rqof9-Smga2c&e = >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dave at ranteer.com >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/difejo1 at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From thgun at comporium.net Fri Jan 29 18:25:26 2021 From: thgun at comporium.net (Thomas Gunderson) Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2021 20:25:26 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Gas Message-ID: <9C1C5C7E-B00E-4480-AFBA-16D8E8834C34@comporium.net> What gas do tou run in tour MGA 1500 with su carb? Sent from my iPhone X From thgun at comporium.net Fri Jan 29 18:49:22 2021 From: thgun at comporium.net (Thomas Gunderson) Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2021 20:49:22 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Gas Message-ID: <379A7EF1-2CC0-4F7A-BA22-8C87F2D7BC4B@comporium.net> you / your fat fingers..... Sent from my iPhone X From rolindsay at yahoo.com Fri Jan 29 19:12:04 2021 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (rolindsay at yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2021 20:12:04 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Running hot References: <5a7d7848-6dd0-4fb3-897e-0dd38a95db02.ref@email.android.com> Message-ID: <5a7d7848-6dd0-4fb3-897e-0dd38a95db02@email.android.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ccrobins at ktc.com Sat Jan 30 10:54:11 2021 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles Robinson) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2021 11:54:11 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Running hot In-Reply-To: <5a7d7848-6dd0-4fb3-897e-0dd38a95db02@email.android.com> References: <5a7d7848-6dd0-4fb3-897e-0dd38a95db02.ref@email.android.com> <5a7d7848-6dd0-4fb3-897e-0dd38a95db02@email.android.com> Message-ID: <7298b10b-e187-9f07-50b7-6ede5dee8c58@ktc.com> Are you sure the thermostat it working correctly?? You didn't mention it. CR On 1/29/2021 8:12 PM, rolindsay at yahoo.com wrote: > Hello friends. I haven't written to bother you for a long time, but > now I do so because I need advice. My recently resurrected '72 MGB's > engine runs hot. It doesn't boil over but it 'overheats'. Here are the > details from two tests. > > 1972 MGB, idling from cold start, bonnet open, 50:50 antifreeze mix, > heater valve open, new water pump, flushed radiator, 10# radiator cap, > timing set correctly, air:fuel ratio set correctly, carbs balanced. > First day tests, w/o electric fan on: > > Time > Since? ? ?Coolant? ? ? ? ? ? Gauge > Start? ? ? Temperature? ?Reading > -----------+?--------------------+--?---------- > 0 min? ? ? ? ?71?F? ? ? ? ? ? ?minimum > 1 min? ? ? ? ?72?F? ? ? ? ? ? ?minimum > 5 min? ? ? ? ?160?F? ? ? ? ? ?1/4 scale > 10 min? ? ? ?195?F? ? ? ? ? ?5/8 scale > 15 min? ? ? ?220?F? ? ? ? ? ?7/8 scale > > > Second day tests, with electric fan on: > > Time > Since? ? ?Coolant? ? ? ? ? ? ?Gauge > Start? ? ? Temperature? ? Reading > -----------+?--------------------+--?---------- > 0 min? ? ? ? ?63?F? ? ? ? ? ? ?minimum > 1 min? ? ? ? ?64?F? ? ? ? ? ? ?minimum > 5 min? ? ? ? ?159?F? ? ? ? ? ?1/4 scale > 10 min? ? ? ?195?F? ? ? ? ? ?5/8 scale > 15 min? ? ? ?228?F? ? ? ? ? ?edge of 'H' > > Conclusions: > 1. Engine starts easily, idles smoothly, and runs great. > 2. No boil over in either test case. > 3. Electric fan 'on' cannot overcome whatever is causing the car to > run hot. > 4. Temperatures measured at top of thermostat housing, but verified to > be the same at the radiator top neck. > 5. Charge is neither lean nor rich. > 6. Timing is set correctly. > > What product might I use to flush debris from the block and head, if > that is indeed the problem? Thoughts? And thanks. > > -Rick, in Houston, TX > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mgbobh at gmail.com Sat Jan 30 11:40:24 2021 From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2021 13:40:24 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Running hot In-Reply-To: <5a7d7848-6dd0-4fb3-897e-0dd38a95db02@email.android.com> References: <5a7d7848-6dd0-4fb3-897e-0dd38a95db02.ref@email.android.com> <5a7d7848-6dd0-4fb3-897e-0dd38a95db02@email.android.com> Message-ID: <8BDCC8D5-267B-4478-BFED-D0AB42172A3F@gmail.com> Hi Rick, Those of us shivering at 9 degrees this morning, with a wind blowing, almost wish we had your problem. Same temp at radiator neck and ?stat housing suggests that the thermostat is working, though if you have any doubt about it and do not know its age, you might consider replacing it anyway. Were you able to measure top/bottom, left/right the radiator core temperature? If temp does not reduce from top to bottom, or there are different temps at the same distance down from top, you could suspect the radiator. I have not had stellar success with radiator cleaning products. My recommendation is to take it to a radiator shop and have it cleaned and serviced. If you wanted to try a cleaning product, you know there is a mess about to happen, so first take a garden hose and flush the heater, shielding the distributor first. A surprising amount of sediment is often found in the heater, usually more than is in the radiator. Re-connect the hoses and use whatever your nearby auto parts shop suggests. What do you know about this water pump? Chances are that original has been replaced at least once, and there are different qualities of replacements. If, when your bring up engine temp from cold, with the rad cap off, you do not see some swirling in top of the radiator, the water pump is suspect. Last week, before the weather turned bitter, some of us were invited to check out a 1978 MGB with two HIFs installed. Engine was smooth at idle, baulky at acceleration with no load, stalled at acceleration when in gear. HIFs were balanced, piston-lift test was OK, spark plugs showed good mixture, timing was what the label said it should be. Hmmm. Distributor advance was OK too. Double hmmm. Answer: Car was gift to new owner by wife, who had not driven it. DPO had ?tuned? engine, but set the distributor to the marks ?- with vac hose connected. We disconnected the hose, plugged the manifold connection, rotated distributor about 25 degrees to test, and it fired right up. Set per specs, the engine purred. Bob > On Jan 29, 2021, at 9:12 PM, rolindsay at yahoo.com wrote: > > Hello friends. I haven't written to bother you for a long time, but now I do so because I need advice. My recently resurrected '72 MGB's engine runs hot. It doesn't boil over but it 'overheats'. Here are the details from two tests. > > 1972 MGB, idling from cold start, bonnet open, 50:50 antifreeze mix, heater valve open, new water pump, flushed radiator, 10# radiator cap, timing set correctly, air:fuel ratio set correctly, carbs balanced. > > First day tests, w/o electric fan on: > > Time > Since Coolant Gauge > Start Temperature Reading > -----------+?--------------------+--?---------- > 0 min 71?F minimum > 1 min 72?F minimum > 5 min 160?F 1/4 scale > 10 min 195?F 5/8 scale > 15 min 220?F 7/8 scale > > > Second day tests, with electric fan on: > > Time > Since Coolant Gauge > Start Temperature Reading > -----------+?--------------------+--?---------- > 0 min 63?F minimum > 1 min 64?F minimum > 5 min 159?F 1/4 scale > 10 min 195?F 5/8 scale > 15 min 228?F edge of 'H' > > Conclusions: > 1. Engine starts easily, idles smoothly, and runs great. > 2. No boil over in either test case. > 3. Electric fan 'on' cannot overcome whatever is causing the car to run hot. > 4. Temperatures measured at top of thermostat housing, but verified to be the same at the radiator top neck. > 5. Charge is neither lean nor rich. > 6. Timing is set correctly. > > What product might I use to flush debris from the block and head, if that is indeed the problem? Thoughts? And thanks. > > -Rick, in Houston, TX > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com From mvheim at sonic.net Sat Jan 30 11:56:26 2021 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2021 10:56:26 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Running hot In-Reply-To: <5a7d7848-6dd0-4fb3-897e-0dd38a95db02@email.android.com> References: <5a7d7848-6dd0-4fb3-897e-0dd38a95db02@email.android.com> Message-ID: <0E443581-2052-44A4-B16C-D5C077BE2192@sonic.net> How old is the water pump? Maybe the blades have corroded away. Does the car have a mechanical fan as well? Is the radiator temp even across the face, or does it have cold spots? Sent from my iPad > On Jan 29, 2021, at 6:14 PM, rolindsay at yahoo.com wrote: > > ? > Hello friends. I haven't written to bother you for a long time, but now I do so because I need advice. My recently resurrected '72 MGB's engine runs hot. It doesn't boil over but it 'overheats'. Here are the details from two tests. > > 1972 MGB, idling from cold start, bonnet open, 50:50 antifreeze mix, heater valve open, new water pump, flushed radiator, 10# radiator cap, timing set correctly, air:fuel ratio set correctly, carbs balanced. > > First day tests, w/o electric fan on: > > Time > Since Coolant Gauge > Start Temperature Reading > -----------+?--------------------+--?---------- > 0 min 71?F minimum > 1 min 72?F minimum > 5 min 160?F 1/4 scale > 10 min 195?F 5/8 scale > 15 min 220?F 7/8 scale > > > Second day tests, with electric fan on: > > Time > Since Coolant Gauge > Start Temperature Reading > -----------+?--------------------+--?---------- > 0 min 63?F minimum > 1 min 64?F minimum > 5 min 159?F 1/4 scale > 10 min 195?F 5/8 scale > 15 min 228?F edge of 'H' > > Conclusions: > 1. Engine starts easily, idles smoothly, and runs great. > 2. No boil over in either test case. > 3. Electric fan 'on' cannot overcome whatever is causing the car to run hot. > 4. Temperatures measured at top of thermostat housing, but verified to be the same at the radiator top neck. > 5. Charge is neither lean nor rich. > 6. Timing is set correctly. > > What product might I use to flush debris from the block and head, if that is indeed the problem? Thoughts? And thanks. > > -Rick, in Houston, TX > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net From britfan1 at epix.net Sat Jan 30 12:19:22 2021 From: britfan1 at epix.net (S.Carr) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2021 14:19:22 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Running hot In-Reply-To: <8BDCC8D5-267B-4478-BFED-D0AB42172A3F@gmail.com> References: <5a7d7848-6dd0-4fb3-897e-0dd38a95db02.ref@email.android.com> <5a7d7848-6dd0-4fb3-897e-0dd38a95db02@email.android.com> <8BDCC8D5-267B-4478-BFED-D0AB42172A3F@gmail.com> Message-ID: While we?re on the subject of water pumps, can anyone confirm that at one time the original water pumps in rubber-bumper Bs had plastic blades? I have a memory of a friend dealing with a chronically overheating car?probably 30 years ago?and claiming that when he took the pump off he found the blades so deformed from heat that they weren?t pumping much of anything? Sarah Carr ?71 B/GT in PA Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Sat Jan 30 12:23:16 2021 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2021 11:23:16 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Running hot In-Reply-To: <5a7d7848-6dd0-4fb3-897e-0dd38a95db02@email.android.com> References: <5a7d7848-6dd0-4fb3-897e-0dd38a95db02.ref@email.android.com> <5a7d7848-6dd0-4fb3-897e-0dd38a95db02@email.android.com> Message-ID: Why does your car have an electric fan? I had a '74 MGB in Dallas and it never overheated. The seats got very hot, but not the engine. Are you sure the fan or fans are blowing air in the correct direction? Have you tested your thermostat? Have you checked that the radiator is really working? Check the temperatures at the top and the bottom. Simon On Fri, Jan 29, 2021 at 6:14 PM wrote: > > Hello friends. I haven't written to bother you for a long time, but now I do so because I need advice. My recently resurrected '72 MGB's engine runs hot. It doesn't boil over but it 'overheats'. Here are the details from two tests. > > 1972 MGB, idling from cold start, bonnet open, 50:50 antifreeze mix, heater valve open, new water pump, flushed radiator, 10# radiator cap, timing set correctly, air:fuel ratio set correctly, carbs balanced. > > First day tests, w/o electric fan on: > > Time > Since Coolant Gauge > Start Temperature Reading > -----------+?--------------------+--?---------- > 0 min 71?F minimum > 1 min 72?F minimum > 5 min 160?F 1/4 scale > 10 min 195?F 5/8 scale > 15 min 220?F 7/8 scale > > > Second day tests, with electric fan on: > > Time > Since Coolant Gauge > Start Temperature Reading > -----------+?--------------------+--?---------- > 0 min 63?F minimum > 1 min 64?F minimum > 5 min 159?F 1/4 scale > 10 min 195?F 5/8 scale > 15 min 228?F edge of 'H' > > Conclusions: > 1. Engine starts easily, idles smoothly, and runs great. > 2. No boil over in either test case. > 3. Electric fan 'on' cannot overcome whatever is causing the car to run hot. > 4. Temperatures measured at top of thermostat housing, but verified to be the same at the radiator top neck. > 5. Charge is neither lean nor rich. > 6. Timing is set correctly. > > What product might I use to flush debris from the block and head, if that is indeed the problem? Thoughts? And thanks. > > -Rick, in Houston, TX > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/simon.d.matthews at gmail.com From rolindsay at yahoo.com Sat Jan 30 16:38:40 2021 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (rolindsay at yahoo.com) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2021 17:38:40 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Running hot In-Reply-To: <8BDCC8D5-267B-4478-BFED-D0AB42172A3F@gmail.com> References: <98004c2e-e2b0-454c-ae09-4252c201c6d4.ref@email.android.com> Message-ID: <98004c2e-e2b0-454c-ae09-4252c201c6d4@email.android.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rolindsay at yahoo.com Sat Jan 30 16:43:42 2021 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (rolindsay at yahoo.com) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2021 17:43:42 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Running hot In-Reply-To: <0E443581-2052-44A4-B16C-D5C077BE2192@sonic.net> References: <8510827d-17c9-44d7-82fa-249008fc6a71.ref@email.android.com> Message-ID: <8510827d-17c9-44d7-82fa-249008fc6a71@email.android.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rolindsay at yahoo.com Sat Jan 30 16:48:30 2021 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (rolindsay at yahoo.com) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2021 17:48:30 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Running hot In-Reply-To: References: <2650a710-f79c-4194-9a70-01108fdbaf52.ref@email.android.com> Message-ID: <2650a710-f79c-4194-9a70-01108fdbaf52@email.android.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mgbobh at gmail.com Sat Jan 30 16:50:21 2021 From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2021 18:50:21 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Running hot In-Reply-To: <98004c2e-e2b0-454c-ae09-4252c201c6d4@email.android.com> References: <98004c2e-e2b0-454c-ae09-4252c201c6d4.ref@email.android.com> <98004c2e-e2b0-454c-ae09-4252c201c6d4@email.android.com> Message-ID: Hi Rick, You have been systematic about this. Good question about the opening of the new ?stat. As far as I know, they either open completely or not at all. Others may know for sure. Sounds like you did all the right things with your efforts to clean the radiator. I still wonder if it had sediment that solidified during the time the car was not in service. Was that a long time? Antifreeze in the radiator then? Check the side-to-side temps of radiator. If the sides and centre are not close in temp, I would suspect blockage in the sides. Why the electric fan? My MGB with its yellow plastic fan was happy year round in Sarasota, admittedly not the heat of Houston, but I never had any worries. Is fan turning the right direction? I have heard about that but never seen it. Bob > On Jan 30, 2021, at 6:38 PM, rolindsay at yahoo.com wrote: > > Hi Bob, > Thanks for the kind words, considered thoughts, and recommendations. I quote (most of) your words here so as to not miss any salient points. > > > Those of us shivering at 9 degrees this morning, with a wind > > blowing, almost wish we had your problem. > > LOL! I may be saying the same thing to you in 6 months, if with 90 degrees added to your 9! > > > Same temp at radiator neck and ?stat housing suggests > > that the thermostat is working, though if you have any > > doubt about it and do not know its age, you might consider > > replacing it anyway. > > I agree, but at what flow level? Perhaps the thermostat, which is new, may be not opening fully. If restricting flow, the temperatures before and after the thermostat might equilibrate but without enough coolant flow to keep up with the engine's waste heat. > > > Were you able to measure top/bottom, left/right the > > radiator core temperature? > > Yes, but I didn't record the temperatures. I just verified that the bottom if the radiator was cooler than the top. > > > If temp does not reduce from top to bottom, or there are > > different temps at the same distance down from top, > > you could suspect the radiator. > > I will examine further. When restoring the car I cleaned the radiator, inside and out, and straightened any bent 'fins'. I back-flushed the radiator with hose water then once the rinse water 'ran clear', I flushed it forward. Outside I sprayed the fins from both sides, with SimpleGreen then flushed it clean, back to front, with the water hose sprayer, again until the wash water ran clean. > > > I have not had stellar success with radiator cleaning products. > > My recommendation is to take it to a radiator shop and have it > > cleaned and serviced. > > See above. > > > What do you know about this water pump? > > It is new. > > > If, when your bring up engine temp from cold, with the rad cap > > off, you do not see some swirling in top of the radiator, the water > > pump is suspect. > > Will check, even though it is new (or perhaps rebuilt in China). > > Rick > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com From rolindsay at yahoo.com Sat Jan 30 17:04:27 2021 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (rolindsay at yahoo.com) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2021 18:04:27 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Running hot In-Reply-To: References: <09c58566-436a-4e58-a708-1a52f3dfa368.ref@email.android.com> Message-ID: <09c58566-436a-4e58-a708-1a52f3dfa368@email.android.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mgbobh at gmail.com Sat Jan 30 17:50:57 2021 From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2021 19:50:57 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Running hot In-Reply-To: <09c58566-436a-4e58-a708-1a52f3dfa368@email.android.com> References: <09c58566-436a-4e58-a708-1a52f3dfa368.ref@email.android.com> <09c58566-436a-4e58-a708-1a52f3dfa368@email.android.com> Message-ID: In 1972, MG issued a service bulletin that said all the cars with metal fans should have them replaced by the dealer, at no cost, by the plastic fan. When I came across the bulletin, a couple of years back, I bought a plastic fan and replaced the metal one. Plastic fan seems to move more air and to be quieter too. As I always keep fan belt very loose, I found its lower weight reduced squeal when jabbing the throttle. If the electric fan moves more air than the OEM metal one, why not remove the metal one? Unless the two are moving air at exactly the same velocity, one fan will be interfering with the other, not enough to cause this overheating, but unnecessary. Bob > On Jan 30, 2021, at 7:04 PM, rolindsay at yahoo.com wrote: > > > Is fan turning the right direction? I have heard about that > >but never seen it. > > I verified that the metal fan is mounted correctly. And verified that the electric fan that I mounted is blowing the right way (the second time I wired it :-). From ccrobins at ktc.com Sat Jan 30 22:54:23 2021 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles Robinson) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2021 23:54:23 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Running hot In-Reply-To: <5a7d7848-6dd0-4fb3-897e-0dd38a95db02@email.android.com> References: <5a7d7848-6dd0-4fb3-897e-0dd38a95db02.ref@email.android.com> <5a7d7848-6dd0-4fb3-897e-0dd38a95db02@email.android.com> Message-ID: Rick, ? As a last resort, I'd take it to a radiator shop that has a CO sniffer.? Have 'em check for combustion gases in the radiator. CR From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Jan 31 11:31:46 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2021 10:31:46 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Running hot In-Reply-To: References: <98004c2e-e2b0-454c-ae09-4252c201c6d4.ref@email.android.com> <98004c2e-e2b0-454c-ae09-4252c201c6d4@email.android.com> Message-ID: If you have access a thermal gun you can point it at various areas of your radiator to see if you have cooler blocked areas. Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Sat, Jan 30, 2021, 4:10 PM Robert's New iPad wrote: > Hi Rick, > You have been systematic about this. > Good question about the opening of the new ?stat. As far as I know, > they either open completely or not at all. Others may know for sure. > Sounds like you did all the right things with your efforts to clean the > radiator. I still wonder if it had sediment that solidified during the > time the car was not in service. Was that a long time? Antifreeze in the > radiator then? > Check the side-to-side temps of radiator. If the sides and centre are > not close in temp, I would suspect blockage in the sides. > Why the electric fan? My MGB with its yellow plastic fan was happy year > round in Sarasota, admittedly not the heat of Houston, but I never had any > worries. > Is fan turning the right direction? I have heard about that but never > seen it. > Bob > > > > On Jan 30, 2021, at 6:38 PM, rolindsay at yahoo.com wrote: > > > > Hi Bob, > > Thanks for the kind words, considered thoughts, and recommendations. > I quote (most of) your words here so as to not miss any salient points. > > > > > Those of us shivering at 9 degrees this morning, with a wind > > > blowing, almost wish we had your problem. > > > > LOL! I may be saying the same thing to you in 6 months, if with 90 > degrees added to your 9! > > > > > Same temp at radiator neck and ?stat housing suggests > > > that the thermostat is working, though if you have any > > > doubt about it and do not know its age, you might consider > > > replacing it anyway. > > > > I agree, but at what flow level? Perhaps the thermostat, which is > new, may be not opening fully. If restricting flow, the temperatures before > and after the thermostat might equilibrate but without enough coolant flow > to keep up with the engine's waste heat. > > > > > Were you able to measure top/bottom, left/right the > > > radiator core temperature? > > > > Yes, but I didn't record the temperatures. I just verified that the > bottom if the radiator was cooler than the top. > > > > > If temp does not reduce from top to bottom, or there are > > > different temps at the same distance down from top, > > > you could suspect the radiator. > > > > I will examine further. When restoring the car I cleaned the > radiator, inside and out, and straightened any bent 'fins'. I back-flushed > the radiator with hose water then once the rinse water 'ran clear', I > flushed it forward. Outside I sprayed the fins from both sides, with > SimpleGreen then flushed it clean, back to front, with the water hose > sprayer, again until the wash water ran clean. > > > > > I have not had stellar success with radiator cleaning products. > > > My recommendation is to take it to a radiator shop and have it > > > cleaned and serviced. > > > > See above. > > > > > What do you know about this water pump? > > > > It is new. > > > > > If, when your bring up engine temp from cold, with the rad cap > > > off, you do not see some swirling in top of the radiator, the water > > > pump is suspect. > > > > Will check, even though it is new (or perhaps rebuilt in China). > > > > Rick > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Sun Jan 31 11:54:41 2021 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (h.duinhoven at planet.nl) Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2021 19:54:41 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Running hot In-Reply-To: References: <09c58566-436a-4e58-a708-1a52f3dfa368.ref@email.android.com> <09c58566-436a-4e58-a708-1a52f3dfa368@email.android.com> Message-ID: <000a01d6f802$8840a7d0$98c1f770$@planet.nl> That's an interesting piece of information! So now I have to find an MG dealer, who can deliver me a plastic fan. My 1971 imported in 1990 to the Netherlands from California still has the metal blades... I once read a story of a broke metal fan blade protruding through the bonnet (hood). Cheers, Hans 71 BGT -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: Mgs Namens Robert's New iPad Verzonden: zondag 31 januari 2021 01:51 Aan: rolindsay at yahoo.com CC: MGs Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Running hot In 1972, MG issued a service bulletin that said all the cars with metal fans should have them replaced by the dealer, at no cost, by the plastic fan. When I came across the bulletin, a couple of years back, I bought a plastic fan and replaced the metal one. Plastic fan seems to move more air and to be quieter too. As I always keep fan belt very loose, I found its lower weight reduced squeal when jabbing the throttle. If the electric fan moves more air than the OEM metal one, why not remove the metal one? Unless the two are moving air at exactly the same velocity, one fan will be interfering with the other, not enough to cause this overheating, but unnecessary. Bob > On Jan 30, 2021, at 7:04 PM, rolindsay at yahoo.com wrote: > > > Is fan turning the right direction? I have heard about that but > >never seen it. > > I verified that the metal fan is mounted correctly. And verified that the electric fan that I mounted is blowing the right way (the second time I wired it :-). _______________________________________________ -- Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware. https://www.avast.com/antivirus