From britfan1 at epix.net Mon Aug 9 13:02:51 2021 From: britfan1 at epix.net (S.Carr) Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2021 15:02:51 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] 1980 MGB wiring question Message-ID: We?re working on a 1980 B with a maddening assortment of electrical problems. Right now we?re trying to figure out why the horn push won?t work?and all the wiring diagrams (Bentley & Advance Autowire)?show the horn as having purple wiring?apparently meant for the horn push in the steering wheel button, not the push-in-the-wiper-stalk of this car. Any advice from the List? Thanks, Sarah Carr ?71 B/GT in PA Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Tue Aug 10 03:43:29 2021 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2021 10:43:29 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] 1980 MGB wiring question References: <20210809190436.8C7C5A1920@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <19EE10DE4707469D91B1ED08A82D79C5@paul> The horn wiring changed on late model cars so that the stalk button puts out 12v to the horns, and the horns only have one wire each as they pick up an earth from their mountings. As such the horn push should have purple (12v, fused always live) and purple/black (to the horn) wires. First thing to check is, does the interior light work? If not maybe the purple supply from the fusebox has failed, bottom fuse. If so, with it lit press the horn button. Does it go out? If so then there is a bad connection back through the fusebox. Next it depends on whether it is easier for you to check the wiring at the multi-plug by the column, or at the horns. In the former case look for the purple and purple black wires and check them (connector still plugged together) for 12v on the purple all the time, and on the purple/black when the button is pushed. If on the purple but not the purple/black the switch or wiring in the stalk is faulty. Sometimes the wires are moulded into the connector blocks so you can only test by parting the connectors just enough to expose the pins, but they are still making contact. At the horns with the button pressed you should have 12v on the purple/black spades on the horns (wiring connected). If not and the test at the column multi-plug was good then the circuit back to there is faulty, most likely is a bad connection between the wiring connector and horn spade. If you see 12v on the horn spade check a clean part of the horn body for 12v as well. If you see that then the horn earthing is bad. If you saw 12v on the purple/black spade but not on the body then the horn is bad internally. It might seem unlikely that the fault is at the horns in both cases, but anything is possible. BTW stuff the trumpets with rags to avoid getting a loud blast if you disturb the fault and one or other should suddenly start working :o) PaulH ----- Original Message ----- We?re working on a 1980 B with a maddening assortment of electrical problems. Right now we?re trying to figure out why the horn push won?t work?and all the wiring diagrams (Bentley & Advance Autowire)?show the horn as having purple wiring?apparently meant for the horn push in the steering wheel button, not the push-in-the-wiper-stalk of this car. Any advice from the List? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From springer.mike51 at gmail.com Tue Aug 10 11:01:09 2021 From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2021 10:01:09 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] 1980 MGB wiring question In-Reply-To: <19EE10DE4707469D91B1ED08A82D79C5@paul> References: <20210809190436.8C7C5A1920@autox.team.net> <19EE10DE4707469D91B1ED08A82D79C5@paul> Message-ID: Speaking of horns, my 1969 MGB GT has only one horn. Is that original? It has two wires going to it. It works OK, but it just sounds weak. What is a good alternative? Can I wire two horns here? Mike MacLean On Tue, Aug 10, 2021 at 2:49 AM PaulHunt73 wrote: > The horn wiring changed on late model cars so that the stalk button puts > out 12v to the horns, and the horns only have one wire each as they pick up > an earth from their mountings. > > As such the horn push should have purple (12v, fused always live) and > purple/black (to the horn) wires. First thing to check is, does the > interior light work? If not maybe the purple supply from the fusebox has > failed, bottom fuse. > > If so, with it lit press the horn button. Does it go out? If so then > there is a bad connection back through the fusebox. > > Next it depends on whether it is easier for you to check the wiring at the > multi-plug by the column, or at the horns. In the former case look for the > purple and purple black wires and check them (connector still plugged > together) for 12v on the purple all the time, and on the purple/black when > the button is pushed. If on the purple but not the purple/black the switch > or wiring in the stalk is faulty. Sometimes the wires are moulded into the > connector blocks so you can only test by parting the connectors just enough > to expose the pins, but they are still making contact. > > At the horns with the button pressed you should have 12v on the > purple/black spades on the horns (wiring connected). If not and the test > at the column multi-plug was good then the circuit back to there is faulty, > most likely is a bad connection between the wiring connector and horn spade. > > If you see 12v on the horn spade check a clean part of the horn body for > 12v as well. If you see that then the horn earthing is bad. If you saw 12v > on the purple/black spade but not on the body then the horn is bad > internally. > > It might seem unlikely that the fault is at the horns in both cases, but > anything is possible. > > BTW stuff the trumpets with rags to avoid getting a loud blast if you > disturb the fault and one or other should suddenly start working :o) > > PaulH > > ----- Original Message ----- > > We?re working on a 1980 B with a maddening assortment of electrical > problems. Right now we?re trying to figure out why the horn push won?t > work?and all the wiring diagrams (Bentley & Advance Autowire)?show the horn > as having purple wiring?apparently meant for the horn push in the steering > wheel button, not the push-in-the-wiper-stalk of this car. Any advice from > the List? > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/springer.mike51 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: MG Horn1.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 314961 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: MGB GT Waxed.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 192553 bytes Desc: not available URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Tue Aug 10 11:54:41 2021 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2021 10:54:41 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] 1980 MGB wiring question In-Reply-To: References: <20210809190436.8C7C5A1920@autox.team.net> <19EE10DE4707469D91B1ED08A82D79C5@paul> Message-ID: <41AE423E-9626-4599-B8E9-52FA6C1CFAC1@sonic.net> That doesn?t seem to be correct. There should be two horns, and they should be mounted further forward, toward the bonnet latch platform, one on ether side. That is also not the original type of horn. I am sure you can find a drawing showing this in either the Bentley manual or the Moss Motors catalog. You can tell that the horn wire is being stretched to reach the current location. -- Max Heim '66 MGB > On Aug 10, 2021, at 10:01 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > > Speaking of horns, my 1969 MGB GT has only one horn. Is that original? It has two wires going to it. It works OK, but it just sounds weak. What is a good alternative? Can I wire two horns here? > Mike MacLean > > On Tue, Aug 10, 2021 at 2:49 AM PaulHunt73 > wrote: > The horn wiring changed on late model cars so that the stalk button puts out 12v to the horns, and the horns only have one wire each as they pick up an earth from their mountings. > > As such the horn push should have purple (12v, fused always live) and purple/black (to the horn) wires. First thing to check is, does the interior light work? If not maybe the purple supply from the fusebox has failed, bottom fuse. > > If so, with it lit press the horn button. Does it go out? If so then there is a bad connection back through the fusebox. > > Next it depends on whether it is easier for you to check the wiring at the multi-plug by the column, or at the horns. In the former case look for the purple and purple black wires and check them (connector still plugged together) for 12v on the purple all the time, and on the purple/black when the button is pushed. If on the purple but not the purple/black the switch or wiring in the stalk is faulty. Sometimes the wires are moulded into the connector blocks so you can only test by parting the connectors just enough to expose the pins, but they are still making contact. > > At the horns with the button pressed you should have 12v on the purple/black spades on the horns (wiring connected). If not and the test at the column multi-plug was good then the circuit back to there is faulty, most likely is a bad connection between the wiring connector and horn spade. > > If you see 12v on the horn spade check a clean part of the horn body for 12v as well. If you see that then the horn earthing is bad. If you saw 12v on the purple/black spade but not on the body then the horn is bad internally. > > It might seem unlikely that the fault is at the horns in both cases, but anything is possible. > > BTW stuff the trumpets with rags to avoid getting a loud blast if you disturb the fault and one or other should suddenly start working :o) > > PaulH > ----- Original Message ----- > > We?re working on a 1980 B with a maddening assortment of electrical problems. Right now we?re trying to figure out why the horn push won?t work?and all the wiring diagrams (Bentley & Advance Autowire)?show the horn as having purple wiring?apparently meant for the horn push in the steering wheel button, not the push-in-the-wiper-stalk of this car. Any advice from the List? > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/springer.mike51 at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: MG Horn1.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 110375 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: MGB GT Waxed.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 120588 bytes Desc: not available URL: From dave at ranteer.com Tue Aug 10 15:42:46 2021 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2021 16:42:46 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] 1980 MGB wiring question In-Reply-To: References: <20210809190436.8C7C5A1920@autox.team.net> <19EE10DE4707469D91B1ED08A82D79C5@paul> Message-ID: <001601d78e30$a87df380$f979da80$@ranteer.com> Get a pair of horns from any flaps From: Mgs On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2021 12:01 PM To: PaulHunt73 ; mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1980 MGB wiring question Speaking of horns, my 1969 MGB GT has only one horn. Is that original? It has two wires going to it. It works OK, but it just sounds weak. What is a good alternative? Can I wire two horns here? Mike MacLean On Tue, Aug 10, 2021 at 2:49 AM PaulHunt73 > wrote: The horn wiring changed on late model cars so that the stalk button puts out 12v to the horns, and the horns only have one wire each as they pick up an earth from their mountings. As such the horn push should have purple (12v, fused always live) and purple/black (to the horn) wires. First thing to check is, does the interior light work? If not maybe the purple supply from the fusebox has failed, bottom fuse. If so, with it lit press the horn button. Does it go out? If so then there is a bad connection back through the fusebox. Next it depends on whether it is easier for you to check the wiring at the multi-plug by the column, or at the horns. In the former case look for the purple and purple black wires and check them (connector still plugged together) for 12v on the purple all the time, and on the purple/black when the button is pushed. If on the purple but not the purple/black the switch or wiring in the stalk is faulty. Sometimes the wires are moulded into the connector blocks so you can only test by parting the connectors just enough to expose the pins, but they are still making contact. At the horns with the button pressed you should have 12v on the purple/black spades on the horns (wiring connected). If not and the test at the column multi-plug was good then the circuit back to there is faulty, most likely is a bad connection between the wiring connector and horn spade. If you see 12v on the horn spade check a clean part of the horn body for 12v as well. If you see that then the horn earthing is bad. If you saw 12v on the purple/black spade but not on the body then the horn is bad internally. It might seem unlikely that the fault is at the horns in both cases, but anything is possible. BTW stuff the trumpets with rags to avoid getting a loud blast if you disturb the fault and one or other should suddenly start working :o) PaulH ----- Original Message ----- We?re working on a 1980 B with a maddening assortment of electrical problems. Right now we?re trying to figure out why the horn push won?t work?and all the wiring diagrams (Bentley & Advance Autowire)?show the horn as having purple wiring?apparently meant for the horn push in the steering wheel button, not the push-in-the-wiper-stalk of this car. Any advice from the List? _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/springer.mike51 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mgbobh at gmail.com Tue Aug 10 16:53:38 2021 From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2021 18:53:38 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] 1980 MGB wiring question In-Reply-To: References: <20210809190436.8C7C5A1920@autox.team.net> <19EE10DE4707469D91B1ED08A82D79C5@paul> Message-ID: <414C14DF-D612-41FE-AF98-0D379AE2D782@gmail.com> It was sent to USA with two horns. Home market might have had only one. Paul will know. The most frequent cause of horn weakness is defective grounding, followed by poor connections in power supply. Chase and check all the wires and connections. Horns draw a fierce current, so good connections are important. Bob > On Aug 10, 2021, at 1:01 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > > Speaking of horns, my 1969 MGB GT has only one horn. Is that original? It has two wires going to it. It works OK, but it just sounds weak. What is a good alternative? Can I wire two horns here? > Mike MacLean > >> On Tue, Aug 10, 2021 at 2:49 AM PaulHunt73 wrote: >> The horn wiring changed on late model cars so that the stalk button puts out 12v to the horns, and the horns only have one wire each as they pick up an earth from their mountings. >> >> As such the horn push should have purple (12v, fused always live) and purple/black (to the horn) wires. First thing to check is, does the interior light work? If not maybe the purple supply from the fusebox has failed, bottom fuse. >> >> If so, with it lit press the horn button. Does it go out? If so then there is a bad connection back through the fusebox. >> >> Next it depends on whether it is easier for you to check the wiring at the multi-plug by the column, or at the horns. In the former case look for the purple and purple black wires and check them (connector still plugged together) for 12v on the purple all the time, and on the purple/black when the button is pushed. If on the purple but not the purple/black the switch or wiring in the stalk is faulty. Sometimes the wires are moulded into the connector blocks so you can only test by parting the connectors just enough to expose the pins, but they are still making contact. >> >> At the horns with the button pressed you should have 12v on the purple/black spades on the horns (wiring connected). If not and the test at the column multi-plug was good then the circuit back to there is faulty, most likely is a bad connection between the wiring connector and horn spade. >> >> If you see 12v on the horn spade check a clean part of the horn body for 12v as well. If you see that then the horn earthing is bad. If you saw 12v on the purple/black spade but not on the body then the horn is bad internally. >> >> It might seem unlikely that the fault is at the horns in both cases, but anything is possible. >> >> BTW stuff the trumpets with rags to avoid getting a loud blast if you disturb the fault and one or other should suddenly start working :o) >> >> PaulH >> ----- Original Message ----- >> >> We?re working on a 1980 B with a maddening assortment of electrical problems. Right now we?re trying to figure out why the horn push won?t work?and all the wiring diagrams (Bentley & Advance Autowire)?show the horn as having purple wiring?apparently meant for the horn push in the steering wheel button, not the push-in-the-wiper-stalk of this car. Any advice from the List? >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/springer.mike51 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Wed Aug 11 07:22:57 2021 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2021 14:22:57 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] 1980 MGB wiring question References: <20210809190436.8C7C5A1920@autox.team.net> <19EE10DE4707469D91B1ED08A82D79C5@paul> Message-ID: <5C058452E298401096958058B5AFB345@paul> Clausager and BL documents imply that the UK only had twin horns from 1970, North America with the Mk2. Originally there was a sub-harness from the right-hand to the left-hand horn, the main harness probably contained the wiring for both from 1970. It/they moved from the slam panel to the inner wing in 1963. The earth path to the horn push is pretty awful, no allowance for electrical conductivity in the chassis/crossmember/rack/UJ/column assembly unlike a pal's TR4 that has a braided strap from the chassis to the rack and another round the UJ. In which case a PO may have removed the 2nd horn as it would double the load and make things even worse if connections are weak. My V8 came to me with a single moped horn, I had to add a relay before the correct horns would work at all even one. Subsequently I had to add one to the roadster as well. The standard horns with good electrical conductivity are pretty powerful. If you put a voltmeter between the purple terminal at the horns and the body and push the button you will see how much voltage you are losing through the fuse (if any) by the voltage dropping from 12v. Do the same on the purple/black and the higher that is above zero shows how much you are losing through the earth path. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Speaking of horns, my 1969 MGB GT has only one horn. Is that original? It has two wires going to it. It works OK, but it just sounds weak. What is a good alternative? Can I wire two horns here? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Fri Aug 13 11:00:45 2021 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2021 12:00:45 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] shameless self promotion Message-ID: <000001d79064$c2103390$46309ab0$@ranteer.com> We picked up this car from the second owner, cleaned it up, replaced the driver's side seat foam, steering wheel emblem, and the fan relay. I am now offering it for sale Welcome to My Website ! - index page (ranteer.com) It's the most original car I've ever seen; we have a lot of original documents as well. the paint and the mileage is original. FYI its in Dallas, TX I know several good shipping companies if you need one The tires are old and need to be replaced if you want to drive on the highway. If you are interested in driving it out of here, I can work with you on getting new tires installed and meet you at the airport. I will even fill it up for you. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jimray at hartcom.net Thu Aug 19 11:28:03 2021 From: jimray at hartcom.net (jimray at hartcom.net) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2021 13:28:03 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Suspicious noise Message-ID: I have an 80 MGB Rover V8 with a BW T35 automatic. The car recently started producing a knocking noise when in motion (forward or reverse) and I can't find its source. It has been sitting on blocks for a couple of years but started every month and allowed to reach running temperature. The transmission was also exercised during this monthly startup and appears to be working as it should. The front wheels turned freely before the car was put on blocks but now are difficult to spin over as though the bearings might be too tight. Breaks work fine. With the car on front & rear jack stands the noise isn't there. With the front wheels on the ground and the rear on stands and transmission engaged, the noise also isn't there so one could assume the drive train isn't the root cause on my noise. My suspicion is that it is somewhere in the front axles but visual inspection hasn't produced any clues. Needless to say, I am perplexed. Any thoughts or suggestion you may have are greatly appreciated. Jim Ray Hartwell, Georgia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Fri Aug 20 01:26:02 2021 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2021 08:26:02 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Suspicious noise References: Message-ID: <66439B613CA94A1A8B8A6E946D101AA1@paul> You say that, but neither the wheel bearings nor the drive train are under any load. You could check the former by getting the car rolling then taking it out of gear and seeing how the noise changes, and the latter by driving the rear wheels when on jacks with the handbrake on. It's more likely to be the front brakes binding than the bearings, I'd have thought. If it does it rolling as well as driving and you are brave enough and can find someone you can trust, you could lie on the ground as they roll past you and that might show whether it's from the front or the back. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- With the car on front & rear jack stands the noise isn't there. With the front wheels on the ground and the rear on stands and transmission engaged, the noise also isn't there so one could assume the drive train isn't the root cause on my noise. My suspicion is that it is somewhere in the front axles but visual inspection hasn't produced any clues. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From markrob at mindspring.com Mon Aug 23 08:52:33 2021 From: markrob at mindspring.com (Mark Robinson) Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 10:52:33 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] 1975 MGB Starter Motor In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <91dc4e70-b963-3d3b-53ef-a37ef8d24ee1@mindspring.com> I need to remove the starter motor on my 1975 MG.? I tried to remove the rubber motor cover and was able to slide it forward but I couldn't pull it out. I am working from below. With the cover pulled forward I can access the solenoid wiring bolts and also the motor mounting bolts. Can I remove the starter motor together with it's cover as one assembly ?? I plan on removing the starter from below as the vehicle is up on a four post lift and the clutch solenoid is removed. thanks From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Mon Aug 23 09:38:18 2021 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 16:38:18 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] 1975 MGB Starter Motor References: <91dc4e70-b963-3d3b-53ef-a37ef8d24ee1@mindspring.com> Message-ID: My 73 doesn't have the cover, but if you can remove all the connections and the mounting bolts now I'd have thought by pushing the cover back on you could remove the two together. I can't see the cover mentioned for removal of either type of pre-engaged in either the WSM or Haynes. Unless frequently driven in very wet and salty conditions I'd ponder leaving it off. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- I need to remove the starter motor on my 1975 MG. I tried to remove the rubber motor cover and was able to slide it forward but I couldn't pull it out. I am working from below. With the cover pulled forward I can access the solenoid wiring bolts and also the motor mounting bolts. Can I remove the starter motor together with it's cover as one assembly ? I plan on removing the starter from below as the vehicle is up on a four post lift and the clutch solenoid is removed. From markrob at mindspring.com Tue Aug 24 07:57:48 2021 From: markrob at mindspring.com (Mark Robinson) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2021 09:57:48 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] 1975 MG Hi-Torque Starter Motor Recommendations In-Reply-To: <91dc4e70-b963-3d3b-53ef-a37ef8d24ee1@mindspring.com> References: <91dc4e70-b963-3d3b-53ef-a37ef8d24ee1@mindspring.com> Message-ID: <90082a1d-f54c-5b15-5826-520fcbf27c40@mindspring.com> Thanks to everyone for their advice. I removed the starter motor from my 1975 MGB from below this morning.?? I am 69 now so it is getting harder to do these things. Thank goodness I have a four post lift.??? When I had both bolts out I was able to force the rubber boot off and then get the starter motor out. I don't want to wrestle with it again and it is very old and greasy so I am going to replace it with one of the modern hi torque starter motors which hopfully will be lighter , smaller and easier to replace. Does anyone have a recommendation for a good make?? I see several are available. thanks? Mark From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Tue Aug 24 08:53:09 2021 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2021 15:53:09 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] 1975 MG Hi-Torque Starter Motor Recommendations References: <91dc4e70-b963-3d3b-53ef-a37ef8d24ee1@mindspring.com> <90082a1d-f54c-5b15-5826-520fcbf27c40@mindspring.com> Message-ID: It's not so much the make as the supplier. There are a few motor manufacturers that supply for many different marques and models with adapters to suit. It's the adapter that is important, which positions the motor and solenoid correctly for the MGB. One version has a captive bolt as the adapter/motor arrangement does not allow it to be fitted at the time of installation without dismantling, I'd avoid that type. Also the number of teeth on the pinion can vary - pre-engaged (10 except V8 which has 9) differ to inertia (9) for example, so you need to get one for your engine/gearbox i.e. nominally the year, unless it is non-standard. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Does anyone have a recommendation for a good make? I see several are available. From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Tue Aug 24 09:58:15 2021 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2021 16:58:15 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] 1975 MG Hi-Torque Starter Motor Recommendations References: <91dc4e70-b963-3d3b-53ef-a37ef8d24ee1@mindspring.com> <90082a1d-f54c-5b15-5826-520fcbf27c40@mindspring.com> Message-ID: <6F26586CE155453CBDC7F628B63BDDCC@paul> Incidentally I should have mentioned that there are 'hi torque' starters that are of conventional construction and others that are 'geared', the latter being several more times expensive. ----- Original Message ----- Does anyone have a recommendation for a good make? I see several are available. thanks Mark _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com From paul at ece.rochester.edu Tue Aug 24 10:28:44 2021 From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Osborne, Paul) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2021 16:28:44 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] [EXT] 1975 MG Hi-Torque Starter Motor Recommendations In-Reply-To: <6F26586CE155453CBDC7F628B63BDDCC@paul> References: <91dc4e70-b963-3d3b-53ef-a37ef8d24ee1@mindspring.com> <90082a1d-f54c-5b15-5826-520fcbf27c40@mindspring.com> <6F26586CE155453CBDC7F628B63BDDCC@paul> Message-ID: I have the one from Moss, that I bought at a swap meet. I works fine. Now, that said, there really is nothing wrong with the orig starter, that too works fine. I have not ever had a problem with them. I only changed as an upgrade for a very reasonable price. My 3 cents. Paul Osborne Department of Electrical and Computer Eng University of Rochester 201 Hopeman Building RC Rochester NY 14627 585-275-5226 On Aug 24, 2021, at 11:58 AM, PaulHunt73 > wrote: Incidentally I should have mentioned that there are 'hi torque' starters that are of conventional construction and others that are 'geared', the latter being several more times expensive. ----- Original Message ----- Does anyone have a recommendation for a good make? I see several are available. thanks Mark _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=Fr1VBSvUICGd6r7E1dTGWJIl4gqvShtC9KFN1yKmx6g&s=OMO2sf1vv57foSbRL8R1I4Rrm0vI2bPbcGoJd48rHXg&e= Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_mgs&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=Fr1VBSvUICGd6r7E1dTGWJIl4gqvShtC9KFN1yKmx6g&s=phSl3QKGD91KM0AOrVhDJ56bPwoqsKwoHLRJPMnjGCU&e= https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=Fr1VBSvUICGd6r7E1dTGWJIl4gqvShtC9KFN1yKmx6g&s=5PEdEKkMf4hz6ThDuZL0lABd4sb3zQKPCa_fdkWbw2M&e= Unsubscribe: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_mgs_paulhunt73-40virginmedia.com&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=Fr1VBSvUICGd6r7E1dTGWJIl4gqvShtC9KFN1yKmx6g&s=NOJgWALCNn1ElmUDx2EkdNxtPiIJ5qDdxDEPOQYMbxk&e= _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=Fr1VBSvUICGd6r7E1dTGWJIl4gqvShtC9KFN1yKmx6g&s=OMO2sf1vv57foSbRL8R1I4Rrm0vI2bPbcGoJd48rHXg&e= Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_mgs&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=Fr1VBSvUICGd6r7E1dTGWJIl4gqvShtC9KFN1yKmx6g&s=phSl3QKGD91KM0AOrVhDJ56bPwoqsKwoHLRJPMnjGCU&e= https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=Fr1VBSvUICGd6r7E1dTGWJIl4gqvShtC9KFN1yKmx6g&s=5PEdEKkMf4hz6ThDuZL0lABd4sb3zQKPCa_fdkWbw2M&e= Unsubscribe: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_mgs_paul-40ece.rochester.edu&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=Fr1VBSvUICGd6r7E1dTGWJIl4gqvShtC9KFN1yKmx6g&s=THgcwZd6N9j4N4wZn--o-jzT9LXDfPh2pn0jVdcsAPI&e= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lundgren at byu.net Tue Aug 24 10:42:55 2021 From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew Lundgren) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2021 10:42:55 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] 1975 MG Hi-Torque Starter Motor Recommendations In-Reply-To: <90082a1d-f54c-5b15-5826-520fcbf27c40@mindspring.com> References: <91dc4e70-b963-3d3b-53ef-a37ef8d24ee1@mindspring.com> <90082a1d-f54c-5b15-5826-520fcbf27c40@mindspring.com> Message-ID: I replaced my stock started that failed with a hitoque version. I got the Wosp starter. https://mossmotors.com/high-torque-starter-by-wosp-performance-18 The wire placement is a bit different than stock. Works great, MUCH lighter. My son doesn't like the sound of it, he says it sounds like a modern car starter now. I didn't notice a difference. I've got no complaints with it. -- Andrew On Tue, Aug 24, 2021 at 8:00 AM Mark Robinson wrote: > Thanks to everyone for their advice. I removed the starter motor from my > 1975 MGB from below this morning. I am 69 now so it is getting harder > to do these things. Thank goodness I have a four post lift. When I > had both bolts out I was able to force the rubber boot off and then get > the starter motor out. > > I don't want to wrestle with it again and it is very old and greasy so I > am going to replace it with one of the modern hi torque starter motors > which hopfully will be lighter , smaller and easier to replace. > > Does anyone have a recommendation for a good make? I see several are > available. > > > thanks Mark > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lundgren at byu.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jimray at hartcom.net Wed Aug 25 13:29:15 2021 From: jimray at hartcom.net (jimray at hartcom.net) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2021 15:29:15 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Driveshaft orientation Message-ID: Can anyone give me the correct orientation (front to back) of the driveshaft on an 80 MGB. Does the end with the sleeve and spline connect to the differential or the transmission. I've seen examples of both configurations. Thanks, Jim Ray -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mgbobh at gmail.com Wed Aug 25 13:53:50 2021 From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2021 15:53:50 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Driveshaft orientation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <960C4222-B4F4-47EF-9E75-32AA4C3AEB5B@gmail.com> The sliding joint (sleeve & spline) end is forward, toward the gearbox. As the driveshaft may have been separated at the sliding joint (they will pull apart when off the car), check that the yokes of the universal joints are aligned. Bob > On Aug 25, 2021, at 3:29 PM, wrote: > > Can anyone give me the correct orientation (front to back) of the driveshaft on an 80 MGB. Does the end with the sleeve and spline connect to the differential or the transmission. I?ve seen examples of both configurations. > > Thanks, > > Jim Ray > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Thu Aug 26 01:28:36 2021 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2021 08:28:36 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Driveshaft orientation References: <960C4222-B4F4-47EF-9E75-32AA4C3AEB5B@gmail.com> Message-ID: Yes the sliding joint only ever goes towards the gearbox, and the UJs do have to be aligned correctly. My Haynes has an exploded drawing showing them incorrectly aligned and assembled drawing showing them correct. My WSM is correct. It's much easier to show in a picture of course, but I'll try describing it in less than 1000 words. The flange halves of the UJs must have their axes in the same direction as each other i.e. if the gearbox flange half is vertical then the axle flange half must be vertical as well. Get it wrong and you get excessive wear in the UJs . But that's not the whole story. As said the sliding joint comes apart which means it can be reassembled in as many ways as there are splines. Two of these ways will give the correct flange orientation, but only one of them is how the shaft would have been balanced originally. Get them 180 degrees out and you could get significant imbalance and vibration. There should be alignment marks on the two halves of the sliding joint but they are often missing and even when there are very faint. More info with pictures here http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/ps.htm Both Haynes and the WSM make great play about when removing the propshaft you should mark the flanges it goes back on the car as it came off. That's a nice to have, but it's not essential, as the shaft is balanced as a unit and should run correctly whichever way the pairs of flanges are bolted up to each other. After all, if you were buying a new propshaft the flanges wouldn't have been marked. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- The sliding joint (sleeve & spline) end is forward, toward the gearbox. As the driveshaft may have been separated at the sliding joint (they will pull apart when off the car), check that the yokes of the universal joints are aligned. Bob On Aug 25, 2021, at 3:29 PM, wrote: Can anyone give me the correct orientation (front to back) of the driveshaft on an 80 MGB. Does the end with the sleeve and spline connect to the differential or the transmission. I?ve seen examples of both configurations. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From markrob at mindspring.com Thu Aug 26 10:46:50 2021 From: markrob at mindspring.com (Mark Robinson) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2021 12:46:50 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Found Underneath my MG In-Reply-To: References: <91dc4e70-b963-3d3b-53ef-a37ef8d24ee1@mindspring.com> <90082a1d-f54c-5b15-5826-520fcbf27c40@mindspring.com> Message-ID: <0c8e65f9-905c-9023-930f-32fed19d4205@mindspring.com> I found this lying on the garage floor underneath my 1975 MG. It is up on the ramps and I have just removed the starter motor. Does anyone know what it is and where it came from ? https://www.mediafire.com/view/55fjp6bsatnaf9n/DSCN3671.JPG/file https://www.mediafire.com/view/srtn6lu0bdghvuv/DSCN3672.JPG/file https://www.mediafire.com/view/u9mqid9tkqkyxwm/DSCN3673.JPG/file thanks From mgbobh at gmail.com Thu Aug 26 11:13:49 2021 From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2021 13:13:49 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Found Underneath my MG In-Reply-To: <0c8e65f9-905c-9023-930f-32fed19d4205@mindspring.com> References: <91dc4e70-b963-3d3b-53ef-a37ef8d24ee1@mindspring.com> <90082a1d-f54c-5b15-5826-520fcbf27c40@mindspring.com> <0c8e65f9-905c-9023-930f-32fed19d4205@mindspring.com> Message-ID: <28954353-9D5B-4EFD-BB72-88C9BEA91675@gmail.com> I don?t recognise this little gubbin. I never found one that had dropped off my car. Is there a part number moulded into the plastic? Bob > On Aug 26, 2021, at 12:46 PM, Mark Robinson wrote: > > I found this lying on the garage floor underneath my 1975 MG. It is up on the ramps and I have just removed the starter motor. > > Does anyone know what it is and where it came from ? > > https://www.mediafire.com/view/55fjp6bsatnaf9n/DSCN3671.JPG/file > > https://www.mediafire.com/view/srtn6lu0bdghvuv/DSCN3672.JPG/file > > https://www.mediafire.com/view/u9mqid9tkqkyxwm/DSCN3673.JPG/file > > > thanks > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com From markrob at mindspring.com Thu Aug 26 11:19:33 2021 From: markrob at mindspring.com (Mark Robinson) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2021 13:19:33 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Found Underneath my MG In-Reply-To: <28954353-9D5B-4EFD-BB72-88C9BEA91675@gmail.com> References: <91dc4e70-b963-3d3b-53ef-a37ef8d24ee1@mindspring.com> <90082a1d-f54c-5b15-5826-520fcbf27c40@mindspring.com> <0c8e65f9-905c-9023-930f-32fed19d4205@mindspring.com> <28954353-9D5B-4EFD-BB72-88C9BEA91675@gmail.com> Message-ID: <05dfc134-1d5b-f374-2498-1507953f527f@mindspring.com> I don't see? a part number. It might be from something else...you know I am thinking it might have fallen out of a bag that was a plumbing fixture removed from the shower. I bet it is a hot cold water mixer. Sorry to have bothered the group. Mark On 26-Aug-21 1:13 PM, Robert's New iPad wrote: > I don?t recognise this little gubbin. I never found one that had dropped off my car. > Is there a part number moulded into the plastic? > Bob > > >> On Aug 26, 2021, at 12:46 PM, Mark Robinson wrote: >> >> I found this lying on the garage floor underneath my 1975 MG. It is up on the ramps and I have just removed the starter motor. >> >> Does anyone know what it is and where it came from ? >> >> https://www.mediafire.com/view/55fjp6bsatnaf9n/DSCN3671.JPG/file >> >> https://www.mediafire.com/view/srtn6lu0bdghvuv/DSCN3672.JPG/file >> >> https://www.mediafire.com/view/u9mqid9tkqkyxwm/DSCN3673.JPG/file >> >> >> thanks >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Aug 26 14:16:28 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2021 13:16:28 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Found Underneath my MG In-Reply-To: <0c8e65f9-905c-9023-930f-32fed19d4205@mindspring.com> References: <91dc4e70-b963-3d3b-53ef-a37ef8d24ee1@mindspring.com> <90082a1d-f54c-5b15-5826-520fcbf27c40@mindspring.com> <0c8e65f9-905c-9023-930f-32fed19d4205@mindspring.com> Message-ID: Looks like a blanking plate for a manual fuel pump 9n side of the block. Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Thu, Aug 26, 2021, 9:47 AM Mark Robinson wrote: > I found this lying on the garage floor underneath my 1975 MG. It is up > on the ramps and I have just removed the starter motor. > > Does anyone know what it is and where it came from ? > > https://www.mediafire.com/view/55fjp6bsatnaf9n/DSCN3671.JPG/file > > https://www.mediafire.com/view/srtn6lu0bdghvuv/DSCN3672.JPG/file > > https://www.mediafire.com/view/u9mqid9tkqkyxwm/DSCN3673.JPG/file > > > thanks > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Fri Aug 27 02:43:50 2021 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2021 09:43:50 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Found Underneath my MG References: <91dc4e70-b963-3d3b-53ef-a37ef8d24ee1@mindspring.com> <90082a1d-f54c-5b15-5826-520fcbf27c40@mindspring.com> <0c8e65f9-905c-9023-930f-32fed19d4205@mindspring.com> Message-ID: <25D34563CA5E4E8EB6DF8CA4FA542DD3@paul> Nothing I recognise from a UK car, but then North American (if that is what it is) had more and different stuff. Definitely not a mechanical pump blanking plate, they are flat metal and larger. Look around above where you found it for something loose/hanging/or an aperture of that shape and size. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- >I found this lying on the garage floor underneath my 1975 MG. It is up on >the ramps and I have just removed the starter motor. > > Does anyone know what it is and where it came from ? > > https://www.mediafire.com/view/55fjp6bsatnaf9n/DSCN3671.JPG/file > > https://www.mediafire.com/view/srtn6lu0bdghvuv/DSCN3672.JPG/file > > https://www.mediafire.com/view/u9mqid9tkqkyxwm/DSCN3673.JPG/file > From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Aug 27 06:01:09 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2021 05:01:09 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Found Underneath my MG In-Reply-To: <25D34563CA5E4E8EB6DF8CA4FA542DD3@paul> References: <91dc4e70-b963-3d3b-53ef-a37ef8d24ee1@mindspring.com> <90082a1d-f54c-5b15-5826-520fcbf27c40@mindspring.com> <0c8e65f9-905c-9023-930f-32fed19d4205@mindspring.com> <25D34563CA5E4E8EB6DF8CA4FA542DD3@paul> Message-ID: I did not see the other photos before commenting. I now retract my comment :) Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Fri, Aug 27, 2021, 2:15 AM PaulHunt73 wrote: > Nothing I recognise from a UK car, but then North American (if that is > what > it is) had more and different stuff. > > Definitely not a mechanical pump blanking plate, they are flat metal and > larger. > > Look around above where you found it for something loose/hanging/or an > aperture of that shape and size. > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > >I found this lying on the garage floor underneath my 1975 MG. It is up on > >the ramps and I have just removed the starter motor. > > > > Does anyone know what it is and where it came from ? > > > > https://www.mediafire.com/view/55fjp6bsatnaf9n/DSCN3671.JPG/file > > > > https://www.mediafire.com/view/srtn6lu0bdghvuv/DSCN3672.JPG/file > > > > https://www.mediafire.com/view/u9mqid9tkqkyxwm/DSCN3673.JPG/file > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jimray at hartcom.net Fri Aug 27 08:43:30 2021 From: jimray at hartcom.net (jimray at hartcom.net) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2021 10:43:30 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Driveshaft Question Message-ID: Just replaced the u-joints on my driveshaft and noticed the yoke sleeve doesn't have a grease fitting. The example in the Moss catalog shows one. Should I grease the sleeve before installing the driveshaft and if so how do I do this without a grease fitting? Thanks for your advice. Jim Ray -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mgbobh at gmail.com Fri Aug 27 09:25:46 2021 From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2021 11:25:46 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Driveshaft Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I have not seen a driveshaft without a grease fitting. Might yours have a hole where a fitting was once? If there is no fitting, I would pull the shaft apart and liberally smear grease on the splines, external and internal, then reassemble. This is a sliding joint, sliding together or apart with every vertical movement of the rear axle, so lubrication is important. Bob > On Aug 27, 2021, at 10:43 AM, wrote: > > Just replaced the u-joints on my driveshaft and noticed the yoke sleeve doesn?t have a grease fitting. The example in the Moss catalog shows one. Should I grease the sleeve before installing the driveshaft and if so how do I do this without a grease fitting? > > Thanks for your advice. > > Jim Ray > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Fri Aug 27 09:04:51 2021 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2021 16:04:51 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Driveshaft Question References: Message-ID: <7A1D5F8AFB6A4E119289C7B0793AF3F5@paul> Yes, it just slides apart, but make alignment marks to get it back together the same way it came apart. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Just replaced the u-joints on my driveshaft and noticed the yoke sleeve doesn't have a grease fitting. The example in the Moss catalog shows one. Should I grease the sleeve before installing the driveshaft and if so how do I do this without a grease fitting? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: