[Mgs] bad clutch or?

[Robert's New iPad]

  I have recently removed the engine to answer the question of friction plate binding.  It was.
  That same rusty powder that appears around dry door hinges in a hose was present on the area around the plate’s splines.  Pushing and pulling by hand, the plate would not slide smoothly on its splines.  It had been installed ten years and 30M miles ago.
  I checked the bushing on throw-out lever, the pivot bolt also, which were fine. The throw-out bearing measured a couple of thousands _thicker_ than a new one, so I used the old again, but bought a new AP friction plate even though the old appeared, aside from the rust powder, almost unworn. 
  Difficult shifting is now history.
Bob

 

> On May 28, 2019, at 3:43 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Unlike physical wear at the pedal linkage, similar wear at the slave end has no effect on clutch operation, the hydraulic system is designed to take account of all wear at the clutch end.  Remember the graphite release bearing is going to wear down by a 1/4" or so over the life of the clutch, and given the unequal lengths of the release arm that is going to be getting on for an inch at the slave cylinder.  The piston simply moves out to take it up, and more fluid back-fills from the reservoir.
>  
> If it's dragging exactly the same as before, and you have about 1/2" of travel of the slave push-rod, then something is binding at the clutch.  Either the friction plate is very stiff on its splines, or the end of the first-motion shaft is dragging badly in the pilot bearing.  Could also be the release bearing breaking up and not pushing evenly on the cover plate.  Time to pull the engine - much easier than pulling both - on an MGB at least.
>  
> PaulH.
> ----- Original Message -----
>> Replaced the clutch hose and the slave.  Still not shifting.
>> When you push in the clutch, the lever arm on the trans moves a decent amount.  I didn’t measure it, but its probably ½” to ¾”, something like that. 
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