From britfan1 at epix.net Wed May 1 08:05:17 2019 From: britfan1 at epix.net (S. Carr) Date: Wed, 1 May 2019 10:05:17 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB steering rack Message-ID: While doing pre-season routine maintenance on my ?71 B/GT recently, my mechanic & I decided it would be wise to make sure the steering rack had plenty of oil. The factory service manual has instructions and a diagram for filling via a nipple on the housing ? but we can?t find any such fitting (or even a plug), after cleaning off years of dirt. No oil is presently leaking out of the boots, but it?s possible that it all leaked out many years ago, before we bought the car. (The steering is a bit sticky when returning from full lock.) Any advice from the list? TIA, Sarah Carr ?71 B/GT in PA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Wed May 1 08:43:26 2019 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Wed, 1 May 2019 15:43:26 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGB steering rack References: Message-ID: <23FBCEED0198479F9C3F3DF7A4696865@paul> The oiling nipple was only on early racks. Some remove the pinion cover and damper piston and pour it in there. Personally I've removed the tie or clamp from the large end of one of the gaiters, gripped that from underneath between thumb and forefinger to stop oil leaking out the bottom, then injected oil in the top between gaiter and housing. However it then dripped for several weeks from the pinion seal, so I probably needn't have bothered. On a gaiter change on both cars the innards have been wet with oil, so plenty of lubrication I suspect. Modern replacements tend to be grease-filled these days. If someone has tried to compensate for a worn rack by adjusting the shims, it's possible to exchange sloppiness in the straight-ahead position for stiffness at the extremities. If you slacken the pinion cover bolts slightly and the rack gets looser at the extremities then that's probably what has happened. You can always disconnect the drivers-side gaiter from the rack housing and inspect the rack and pinion at each lock fairly well. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- While doing pre-season routine maintenance on my ?71 B/GT recently, my mechanic & I decided it would be wise to make sure the steering rack had plenty of oil. The factory service manual has instructions and a diagram for filling via a nipple on the housing ? but we can?t find any such fitting (or even a plug), after cleaning off years of dirt. No oil is presently leaking out of the boots, but it?s possible that it all leaked out many years ago, before we bought the car. (The steering is a bit sticky when returning from full lock.) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mgbobh at gmail.com Wed May 1 10:01:19 2019 From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad) Date: Wed, 1 May 2019 12:01:19 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB steering rack In-Reply-To: <23FBCEED0198479F9C3F3DF7A4696865@paul> References: <23FBCEED0198479F9C3F3DF7A4696865@paul> Message-ID: <7654BC92-53FF-4194-B183-AADE128AC830@gmail.com> A method I have used, conveniently and cleanly, was to inject the oil with a 50CC syringe, the larger size that a veterinarian uses for large animals. A six-inch piece of small ID tubing, from the hardware store, to fit the syringe will slide into the small end of the boot past the tie-rods. Racks contained only 1/3 pint. That will lie in the rack and bottom of the bellows so that determination if there is oil inside can be done only by loosening the large ends and letting it out. Not helpful, and the large end will probably leak afterward. A few squirts with the syringe will get in sufficient oil. It is important to not over-fill, as that gives no room for the air displaced when the rack goes lock-to-lock, thus can burst a boot. Bob > On May 1, 2019, at 10:43 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs wrote: > > The oiling nipple was only on early racks. Some remove the pinion cover and damper piston and pour it in there. Personally I've removed the tie or clamp from the large end of one of the gaiters, gripped that from underneath between thumb and forefinger to stop oil leaking out the bottom, then injected oil in the top between gaiter and housing. However it then dripped for several weeks from the pinion seal, so I probably needn't have bothered. On a gaiter change on both cars the innards have been wet with oil, so plenty of lubrication I suspect. Modern replacements tend to be grease-filled these days. > > If someone has tried to compensate for a worn rack by adjusting the shims, it's possible to exchange sloppiness in the straight-ahead position for stiffness at the extremities. If you slacken the pinion cover bolts slightly and the rack gets looser at the extremities then that's probably what has happened. > > You can always disconnect the drivers-side gaiter from the rack housing and inspect the rack and pinion at each lock fairly well. > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > While doing pre-season routine maintenance on my ?71 B/GT recently, my mechanic & I decided it would be wise to make sure the steering rack had plenty of oil. The factory service manual has instructions and a diagram for filling via a nipple on the housing ? but we can?t find any such fitting (or even a plug), after cleaning off years of dirt. No oil is presently leaking out of the boots, but it?s possible that it all leaked out many years ago, before we bought the car. (The steering is a bit sticky when returning from full lock.) > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From david_breneman at yahoo.com Wed May 1 11:29:09 2019 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Wed, 1 May 2019 17:29:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Mgs] mga radiator In-Reply-To: <000601d4ff77$ad326860$07973920$@ranteer.com> References: <000601d4ff77$ad326860$07973920$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <1224887755.3406960.1556731749499@mail.yahoo.com> On Tuesday, April 30, 2019, 10:16:20 AM PDT, dave via Mgs wrote: > Apparently I?m in the market for a new radiator.? Shop says mine needs > a new core at $400+ ?Any recommendations?? I?m thinking that in Dallas > it makes sense to cross that original line and get an aluminum one, but > I do have an electric fan so should be ok either way When I got my MGA restored, the mechanic recommended rebuilding the original radiator rather then buying a replacement, because the new ones have fewer "tubes" (whatever the actual term is in radiator-speak) in them than the originals, so there is less surface area for cooling.? I live in the Puget Sound area and have never had an overheating problem, but I'd imagine that in a hot climate the surface area would be even more critical. From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Thu May 2 01:15:55 2019 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Thu, 2 May 2019 08:15:55 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] mga radiator References: <000601d4ff77$ad326860$07973920$@ranteer.com> <1224887755.3406960.1556731749499@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hmmm. With my cynical hat on I'd say that could be a way of spending $400 rather than $300. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > When I got my MGA restored, the mechanic recommended rebuilding the > original radiator rather then buying a replacement, because the new ones > have fewer "tubes" (whatever the actual term is in radiator-speak) in them > than the originals, so there is less surface area for cooling. From barrob at bell.net Thu May 2 07:33:14 2019 From: barrob at bell.net (Barrie Robinson) Date: Thu, 2 May 2019 09:33:14 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] mga radiator In-Reply-To: References: <000601d4ff77$ad326860$07973920$@ranteer.com> <1224887755.3406960.1556731749499@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3b23b0c4-1e7b-0837-abc9-04ab4392299b@bell.net> I had to get a new radiator for my 1957 Aston but prices were ridiculous. Like anything Aston it was both complex and well engineered.?? But standard it was not.? I just hung on and one day found a radiator? company that had made one but the customer reneged.? So they sold it to me at bargain basement price.? Morale of this story is "look and ye shall find".?? I got my MGB GT V8 made to my specs by Howe Racing and it was not vastly expensive.? I seem to remember it was more than bog standard but not by much.?? It is penny wise pound foolish and getting a /good/ radiator is sanguinary important. Barrie from Barrie On 5/2/2019 3:15 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs wrote: > Hmmm.? With my cynical hat on I'd say that could be a way of spending > $400 rather than $300. > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- >> When I got my MGA restored, the mechanic recommended rebuilding the >> original radiator rather then buying a replacement, because the new ones >> have fewer "tubes" (whatever the actual term is in radiator-speak) in >> them >> than the originals, so there is less surface area for cooling. > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrob at bell.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From david_breneman at yahoo.com Thu May 2 07:53:08 2019 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Thu, 2 May 2019 13:53:08 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Mgs] mga radiator In-Reply-To: References: <000601d4ff77$ad326860$07973920$@ranteer.com> <1224887755.3406960.1556731749499@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <19399023.270621.1556805188509@mail.yahoo.com> With what I paid, $100 was a rounding error (and he ended up doinga lot of work for free, because it was a fixed-price job and he's aperfectionist).? But it's not the first time I'd heard of this problemwith new radiators.? A lot of people complain about cooling issues with their MGAs.? I've never had a problem, even with weather in the 80s.? And if it's hotter than that, I overheat long before thecar would. David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com On Thursday, May 2, 2019, 12:41:14 AM PDT, PaulHunt73 wrote: Hmmm.? With my cynical hat on I'd say that could be a way of spending $400 rather than $300. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > When I got my MGA restored, the mechanic recommended rebuilding the > original radiator rather then buying a replacement, because the new ones > have fewer "tubes" (whatever the actual term is in radiator-speak) in them > than the originals, so there is less surface area for cooling. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Thu May 2 12:01:54 2019 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Thu, 2 May 2019 11:01:54 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] mga radiator In-Reply-To: <19399023.270621.1556805188509@mail.yahoo.com> References: <000601d4ff77$ad326860$07973920$@ranteer.com> <1224887755.3406960.1556731749499@mail.yahoo.com> <19399023.270621.1556805188509@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <5160FCD1-2107-4E8F-9E0F-4903F82794E2@sonic.net> I was recently quoted $450 to recore a Mk.1 MGB radiator. So it has become rather costly. But if you are a stickler for the original appearance, and want to insure a perfect fit, I think that is how you would want to go. That said, I wound up with the Moss Motors premium aluminum radiator, and it fit fine, and seems to work great. I painted it black so it didn?t stand out as a foreign object, and can?t be seen through the grill (this really bugs me when I see it on other cars). -- Max Heim '66 MGB > On May 2, 2019, at 6:53 AM, David Breneman via Mgs wrote: > > With what I paid, $100 was a rounding error (and he ended up doing > a lot of work for free, because it was a fixed-price job and he's a > perfectionist). But it's not the first time I'd heard of this problem > with new radiators. A lot of people complain about cooling issues > with their MGAs. I've never had a problem, even with weather in > the 80s. And if it's hotter than that, I overheat long before the > car would. > > > David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com > > > On Thursday, May 2, 2019, 12:41:14 AM PDT, PaulHunt73 wrote: > > > Hmmm. With my cynical hat on I'd say that could be a way of spending $400 > rather than $300. > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > When I got my MGA restored, the mechanic recommended rebuilding the > > original radiator rather then buying a replacement, because the new ones > > have fewer "tubes" (whatever the actual term is in radiator-speak) in them > > than the originals, so there is less surface area for cooling. > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From barrob at bell.net Thu May 2 12:10:51 2019 From: barrob at bell.net (Barrie Robinson) Date: Thu, 2 May 2019 14:10:51 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] mga radiator In-Reply-To: <5160FCD1-2107-4E8F-9E0F-4903F82794E2@sonic.net> References: <000601d4ff77$ad326860$07973920$@ranteer.com> <1224887755.3406960.1556731749499@mail.yahoo.com> <19399023.270621.1556805188509@mail.yahoo.com> <5160FCD1-2107-4E8F-9E0F-4903F82794E2@sonic.net> Message-ID: Hello Max, I hoped you used the special heat transferring paint.?? There used to be one that has something like small chaff in it which was meant to improve heat transfer. Barrie from Barrie On 5/2/2019 2:01 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: > I was recently quoted $450 to recore a Mk.1 MGB radiator. So it has > become rather costly. But if you are a stickler for the original > appearance, and want to insure a perfect fit, I think that is how you > would want to go. > > That said, I wound up with the Moss Motors premium aluminum radiator, > and it fit fine, and seems to work great. I painted it black so it > didn?t stand out as a foreign object, and can?t be seen through the > grill (this really bugs me when I see it on other cars). > > -- > Max Heim > '66 MGB > >> On May 2, 2019, at 6:53 AM, David Breneman via Mgs >> > wrote: >> >> With what I paid, $100 was a rounding error (and he ended up doing >> a lot of work for free, because it was a fixed-price job and he's a >> perfectionist).? But it's not the first time I'd heard of this problem >> with new radiators.? A lot of people complain about cooling issues >> with their MGAs.? I've never had a problem, even with weather in >> the 80s.? And if it's hotter than that, I overheat long before the >> car would. >> >> >> David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com >> >> >> On Thursday, May 2, 2019, 12:41:14 AM PDT, PaulHunt73 >> > wrote: >> >> >> Hmmm.? With my cynical hat on I'd say that could be a way of spending >> $400 >> rather than $300. >> >> PaulH. >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> > When I got my MGA restored, the mechanic recommended rebuilding the >> > original radiator rather then buying a replacement, because the new >> ones >> > have fewer "tubes" (whatever the actual term is in radiator-speak) >> in them >> > than the originals, so there is less surface area for cooling. >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrob at bell.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Thu May 2 13:24:43 2019 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Thu, 2 May 2019 14:24:43 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] mga radiator In-Reply-To: References: <000601d4ff77$ad326860$07973920$@ranteer.com> <1224887755.3406960.1556731749499@mail.yahoo.com> <19399023.270621.1556805188509@mail.yahoo.com> <5160FCD1-2107-4E8F-9E0F-4903F82794E2@sonic.net> Message-ID: <001601d5011c$b28aca90$17a05fb0$@ranteer.com> I was quoted upwards of $400 to recore. Lbcarco has new ones for under $300, and there is a guy on ebay out of Knoxville selling them for just over $200. Steel/copper of course. Since my other LBC?s also have steel/copper radiators, and electric fans, and I do just fine here in Dallas summers, I?m thinking that?s the way to go. I?ll take lbcarco products any day. Their stuff is great. I?m going to hook up the electric fan to the F switch (and a relay). Seems appropriate to me! From: Mgs On Behalf Of Barrie Robinson via Mgs Sent: Thursday, May 2, 2019 1:11 PM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] mga radiator Hello Max, I hoped you used the special heat transferring paint. There used to be one that has something like small chaff in it which was meant to improve heat transfer. Barrie from Barrie On 5/2/2019 2:01 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: I was recently quoted $450 to recore a Mk.1 MGB radiator. So it has become rather costly. But if you are a stickler for the original appearance, and want to insure a perfect fit, I think that is how you would want to go. That said, I wound up with the Moss Motors premium aluminum radiator, and it fit fine, and seems to work great. I painted it black so it didn?t stand out as a foreign object, and can?t be seen through the grill (this really bugs me when I see it on other cars). -- Max Heim '66 MGB On May 2, 2019, at 6:53 AM, David Breneman via Mgs > wrote: With what I paid, $100 was a rounding error (and he ended up doing a lot of work for free, because it was a fixed-price job and he's a perfectionist). But it's not the first time I'd heard of this problem with new radiators. A lot of people complain about cooling issues with their MGAs. I've never had a problem, even with weather in the 80s. And if it's hotter than that, I overheat long before the car would. David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com On Thursday, May 2, 2019, 12:41:14 AM PDT, PaulHunt73 > wrote: Hmmm. With my cynical hat on I'd say that could be a way of spending $400 rather than $300. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > When I got my MGA restored, the mechanic recommended rebuilding the > original radiator rather then buying a replacement, because the new ones > have fewer "tubes" (whatever the actual term is in radiator-speak) in them > than the originals, so there is less surface area for cooling. _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrob at bell.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From barrob at bell.net Thu May 2 16:27:40 2019 From: barrob at bell.net (Barrie Robinson) Date: Thu, 2 May 2019 18:27:40 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] mga radiator In-Reply-To: <001601d5011c$b28aca90$17a05fb0$@ranteer.com> References: <000601d4ff77$ad326860$07973920$@ranteer.com> <1224887755.3406960.1556731749499@mail.yahoo.com> <19399023.270621.1556805188509@mail.yahoo.com> <5160FCD1-2107-4E8F-9E0F-4903F82794E2@sonic.net> <001601d5011c$b28aca90$17a05fb0$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: I had massive heating problems when I put a Rover 3.5L V8 into my being built MGB GT - surprise surprise!!!?? One item that was a big help was a Perma-Cool 2,950 cfm .? If my engine failed I could pull the car along by switching on the fan:-). It looks industrial but by god does it blow !! Barrie from Barrie On 5/2/2019 3:24 PM, dave via Mgs wrote: > > I was quoted upwards of $400 to recore.? Lbcarco has new ones for > under $300, and there is a guy on ebay out of Knoxville selling them > for just over $200.? Steel/copper of course. > > Since my other LBC?s also have steel/copper radiators, and electric > fans, and I do just fine here in Dallas summers, I?m thinking that?s > the way to go.? I?ll take lbcarco products any day.? Their stuff is > great.? I?m going to hook up the electric fan to the F switch (and a > relay).? Seems appropriate to me! > > *From:*Mgs *On Behalf Of *Barrie Robinson > via Mgs > *Sent:* Thursday, May 2, 2019 1:11 PM > *To:* mgs at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Mgs] mga radiator > > Hello Max, > > I hoped you used the special heat transferring paint. There used to be > one that has something like small chaff in it which was meant to > improve heat transfer. > > Barrie from Barrie > > On 5/2/2019 2:01 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: > > I was recently quoted $450 to recore a Mk.1 MGB radiator. So it > has become rather costly. But if you are a stickler for the > original appearance, and want to insure a perfect fit, I think > that is how you would want to go. > > That said, I wound up with the Moss Motors premium aluminum > radiator, and it fit fine, and seems to work great. I painted it > black so it didn?t stand out as a foreign object, and can?t be > seen through the grill (this really bugs me when I see it on other > cars). > > -- > > Max Heim > > '66 MGB > > On May 2, 2019, at 6:53 AM, David Breneman via Mgs > > wrote: > > With what I paid, $100 was a rounding error (and he ended up doing > > a lot of work for free, because it was a fixed-price job and > he's a > > perfectionist). But it's not the first time I'd heard of this > problem > > with new radiators.? A lot of people complain about cooling > issues > > with their MGAs.? I've never had a problem, even with weather in > > the 80s.? And if it's hotter than that, I overheat long before the > > car would. > > David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com > > > On Thursday, May 2, 2019, 12:41:14 AM PDT, PaulHunt73 > > wrote: > > Hmmm. With my cynical hat on I'd say that could be a way of > spending $400 > > rather than $300. > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > When I got my MGA restored, the mechanic recommended > rebuilding the > > > original radiator rather then buying a replacement, because > the new ones > > > have fewer "tubes" (whatever the actual term is in > radiator-speak) in them > > > than the originals, so there is less surface area for cooling. > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrob at bell.net > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrob at bell.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dan.dibiase at gmail.com Fri May 3 07:28:44 2019 From: dan.dibiase at gmail.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Fri, 3 May 2019 09:28:44 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] mga radiator In-Reply-To: <001601d5011c$b28aca90$17a05fb0$@ranteer.com> References: <000601d4ff77$ad326860$07973920$@ranteer.com> <1224887755.3406960.1556731749499@mail.yahoo.com> <19399023.270621.1556805188509@mail.yahoo.com> <5160FCD1-2107-4E8F-9E0F-4903F82794E2@sonic.net> <001601d5011c$b28aca90$17a05fb0$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: I think Lbcarco is a Moss reseller, so most of their stuff is a Moss product. They sell ?em cheaper. I wonder if Jeff Zorn is still involved with them. Seems to me he retired and he and Jan spend a lot of time cruising these days.... Dan D Central NJ USA On Thu, May 2, 2019 at 3:24 PM dave via Mgs wrote: > I was quoted upwards of $400 to recore. Lbcarco has new ones for under > $300, and there is a guy on ebay out of Knoxville selling them for just > over $200. Steel/copper of course. > > > > Since my other LBC?s also have steel/copper radiators, and electric fans, > and I do just fine here in Dallas summers, I?m thinking that?s the way to > go. I?ll take lbcarco products any day. Their stuff is great. I?m going > to hook up the electric fan to the F switch (and a relay). Seems > appropriate to me! > > > > *From:* Mgs *On Behalf Of *Barrie Robinson > via Mgs > *Sent:* Thursday, May 2, 2019 1:11 PM > *To:* mgs at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Mgs] mga radiator > > > > Hello Max, > > I hoped you used the special heat transferring paint. There used to be > one that has something like small chaff in it which was meant to improve > heat transfer. > > Barrie from Barrie > > On 5/2/2019 2:01 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: > > I was recently quoted $450 to recore a Mk.1 MGB radiator. So it has become > rather costly. But if you are a stickler for the original appearance, and > want to insure a perfect fit, I think that is how you would want to go. > > > > That said, I wound up with the Moss Motors premium aluminum radiator, and > it fit fine, and seems to work great. I painted it black so it didn?t stand > out as a foreign object, and can?t be seen through the grill (this really > bugs me when I see it on other cars). > > > > -- > > Max Heim > > '66 MGB > > > > On May 2, 2019, at 6:53 AM, David Breneman via Mgs > wrote: > > > > With what I paid, $100 was a rounding error (and he ended up doing > > a lot of work for free, because it was a fixed-price job and he's a > > perfectionist). But it's not the first time I'd heard of this problem > > with new radiators. A lot of people complain about cooling issues > > with their MGAs. I've never had a problem, even with weather in > > the 80s. And if it's hotter than that, I overheat long before the > > car would. > > > > > > David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com > > > > > > On Thursday, May 2, 2019, 12:41:14 AM PDT, PaulHunt73 < > paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com> wrote: > > > > > > Hmmm. With my cynical hat on I'd say that could be a way of spending $400 > > rather than $300. > > > > PaulH. > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > When I got my MGA restored, the mechanic recommended rebuilding the > > > original radiator rather then buying a replacement, because the new ones > > > have fewer "tubes" (whatever the actual term is in radiator-speak) in > them > > > than the originals, so there is less surface area for cooling. > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrob at bell.net > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com > -- http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Charley38 at twc.com Fri May 3 09:09:03 2019 From: Charley38 at twc.com (Charley Robinson) Date: Fri, 3 May 2019 10:09:03 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] mga radiator In-Reply-To: References: <000601d4ff77$ad326860$07973920$@ranteer.com> <1224887755.3406960.1556731749499@mail.yahoo.com> <19399023.270621.1556805188509@mail.yahoo.com> <5160FCD1-2107-4E8F-9E0F-4903F82794E2@sonic.net> <001601d5011c$b28aca90$17a05fb0$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <49b271d5-c910-0fad-8a35-61d61581f29e@twc.com> Jeff is still answering the Emails.? I bought a fuel pump from him last month.? Yes, he's a Moss reseller. CR On 5/3/2019 8:28 AM, Dan DiBiase via Mgs wrote: > I think Lbcarco is a Moss reseller, so most of their stuff is a Moss > product. They sell ?em cheaper. > > I wonder if Jeff Zorn is still involved with them. Seems to me he > retired and he and Jan spend a lot of time cruising these days.... > > Dan D > Central NJ USA > > On Thu, May 2, 2019 at 3:24 PM dave via Mgs > wrote: > > I was quoted upwards of $400 to recore.? Lbcarco has new ones for > under $300, and there is a guy on ebay out of Knoxville selling > them for just over $200. Steel/copper of course. > > Since my other LBC?s also have steel/copper radiators, and > electric fans, and I do just fine here in Dallas summers, I?m > thinking that?s the way to go.? I?ll take lbcarco products any > day.? Their stuff is great.? I?m going to hook up the electric fan > to the F switch (and a relay).? Seems appropriate to me! > > *From:*Mgs > *On Behalf Of *Barrie > Robinson via Mgs > *Sent:* Thursday, May 2, 2019 1:11 PM > *To:* mgs at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Mgs] mga radiator > > Hello Max, > > I hoped you used the special heat transferring paint.?? There used > to be one that has something like small chaff in it which was > meant to improve heat transfer. > > Barrie from Barrie > > On 5/2/2019 2:01 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: > > I was recently quoted $450 to recore a Mk.1 MGB radiator. So > it has become rather costly. But if you are a stickler for the > original appearance, and want to insure a perfect fit, I think > that is how you would want to go. > > That said, I wound up with the Moss Motors premium aluminum > radiator, and it fit fine, and seems to work great. I painted > it black so it didn?t stand out as a foreign object, and can?t > be seen through the grill (this really bugs me when I see it > on other cars). > > -- > > Max Heim > > '66 MGB > > On May 2, 2019, at 6:53 AM, David Breneman via Mgs > > wrote: > > With what I paid, $100 was a rounding error (and he ended > up doing > > a lot of work for free, because it was a fixed-price job > and he's a > > perfectionist). But it's not the first time I'd heard of > this problem > > with new radiators.? A lot of people complain about > cooling issues > > with their MGAs.? I've never had a problem, even with > weather in > > the 80s.? And if it's hotter than that, I overheat long > before the > > car would. > > David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com > > > On Thursday, May 2, 2019, 12:41:14 AM PDT, PaulHunt73 > > wrote: > > Hmmm. With my cynical hat on I'd say that could be a way > of spending $400 > > rather than $300. > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > When I got my MGA restored, the mechanic recommended > rebuilding the > > > original radiator rather then buying a replacement, > because the new ones > > > have fewer "tubes" (whatever the actual term is in > radiator-speak) in them > > > than the originals, so there is less surface area for > cooling. > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > > > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrob at bell.net > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com > > -- > http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From difejo1 at gmail.com Sun May 5 12:47:08 2019 From: difejo1 at gmail.com (John DiFede) Date: Sun, 5 May 2019 14:47:08 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Differential drain plug tool Message-ID: <7B35BEBE-3E01-42FE-A059-C06E54040C55@gmail.com> I found a simple tool to remove the differential drain/ fill plug. I purchased a 7/16? x 7/16? x2? square key shaft at my hardware store. Cost was $2.69 and any good hardware store should have it in stock. Look in the area where they stock specialty hardware. John Difede 73 MGB Sent from my iPhone From lrc at red4est.com Sun May 5 14:01:32 2019 From: lrc at red4est.com (lrc at red4est.com) Date: Sun, 05 May 2019 13:01:32 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Differential drain plug tool In-Reply-To: <7B35BEBE-3E01-42FE-A059-C06E54040C55@gmail.com> References: <7B35BEBE-3E01-42FE-A059-C06E54040C55@gmail.com> Message-ID: I bought some square bar stock and had it welded to a lug nut On May 5, 2019 11:47:08 AM PDT, John DiFede via Mgs wrote: > >I found a simple tool to remove the differential drain/ fill plug. I >purchased a 7/16? x 7/16? x2? square key shaft at my hardware store. >Cost was $2.69 and any good hardware store should have it in stock. >Look in the area where they stock specialty hardware. > >John Difede >73 MGB > > >Sent from my iPhone >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 > >Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs >http://autox.team.net/archive > >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lrc at red4est.com -- Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From barneymg at mgaguru.com Sun May 5 15:33:37 2019 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Sun, 05 May 2019 14:33:37 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Differential drain plug tool In-Reply-To: <7B35BEBE-3E01-42FE-A059-C06E54040C55@gmail.com> References: <7B35BEBE-3E01-42FE-A059-C06E54040C55@gmail.com> Message-ID: More than one way to skin a cat. I got a standard 3/8 to 1/2 drive adapter for $1 from a cheap tool vendor. Grrind the output end to a little taper, and it's a perfect fit. http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/tools/pics/drain_plug_wrench2.jpg http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/tools/ts204.htm At 11:47 AM 5/5/2019, John DiFede via Mgs wrote: >I found a simple tool to remove the differential >drain/ fill plug. I purchased a 7/16??? x >7/16??? x2??? square key shaft at my hardware >store. Cost was $2.69 and any good hardware >store should have it in stock. Look in the area >where they stock specialty hardware. John Difede 73 MGB .... From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Mon May 6 01:23:27 2019 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Mon, 6 May 2019 08:23:27 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Differential drain plug tool References: <7B35BEBE-3E01-42FE-A059-C06E54040C55@gmail.com> <20190505220204.6EF62A1F54@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <0FDED6D671E0425BA19B686F4E618D47@paul> I just used a old large bolt cut down and tapered. Gave me low-profile head for a socket spanner for use on the level plug where space is restricted. The hole for the tool may be square but it isn't parallel-sided. If it were you could use a 1/2" socket wrench without a socket - which I did for a while but it tends to slip out. Best of all is to replace them with the new plugs which take a hex Allen key. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- More than one way to skin a cat. I got a standard 3/8 to 1/2 drive adapter for $1 from a cheap tool vendor. Grrind the output end to a little taper, and it's a perfect fit. From cjattias at gmail.com Mon May 6 05:45:54 2019 From: cjattias at gmail.com (Chris Attias) Date: Mon, 6 May 2019 04:45:54 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Differential drain plug tool In-Reply-To: <0FDED6D671E0425BA19B686F4E618D47@paul> References: <7B35BEBE-3E01-42FE-A059-C06E54040C55@gmail.com> <20190505220204.6EF62A1F54@autox.team.net> <0FDED6D671E0425BA19B686F4E618D47@paul> Message-ID: There are a lot of specialized 1/2" drive sockets and double-ended swiveling square-drive wrenches, but I've always liked the cast steel dog-bone wrench with square drive on one end and hex drive on the other. I have a Ken-Tool G-12. Relatively cheap, durable, and provides good leverage. Can be whacked with a hammer if necessary. Chris A. On Mon, May 6, 2019 at 12:46 AM PaulHunt73 via Mgs wrote: > I just used a old large bolt cut down and tapered. Gave me low-profile > head > for a socket spanner for use on the level plug where space is restricted. > The hole for the tool may be square but it isn't parallel-sided. If it > were > you could use a 1/2" socket wrench without a socket - which I did for a > while but it tends to slip out. Best of all is to replace them with the > new > plugs which take a hex Allen key. > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > More than one way to skin a cat. I got a > standard 3/8 to 1/2 drive adapter for $1 from a > cheap tool vendor. Grrind the output end to a > little taper, and it's a perfect fit. > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/cjattias at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wkilleffer at epbfi.com Wed May 8 09:26:17 2019 From: wkilleffer at epbfi.com (wkilleffer at epbfi.com) Date: Wed, 08 May 2019 11:26:17 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB Message-ID: Hello everyone,The car I will be working on is a 1974 B with an 18GK engine. It uses one of those metal junctions that attaches a short hose tobthe water pump, lower radiator hose, and hose to the heater core.?I will be replacing the radiator, radiator cap, all hoses, and putting in a 180 (or 185deg) thermostat. All the parts are coming from Vicky Brit.?Unfortunately, I found out the hard way that the yellow so-called universal coolant doesn't work well with brass and copper radiators, which is why I'm doing this work.?My engine has a coolant drain plug near the oil gauge takeoff near the back of the engine. However, I have never been able to get anything to drain out of it. I'm willing to have another go at it, but not expecting much.?So, how do I get all the old coolant out of the engine since the coolant drain plug isn't functional, and since there will likely be water left inside the block, how do I properly dilute the green coolant?Thank you,-WilliamSent from my LG Mobile -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Wed May 8 09:48:41 2019 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Wed, 8 May 2019 16:48:41 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB References: Message-ID: About the only thing you can do - short of removing the engine and tipping it upside down - is to keep refilling with clean water to dilute what's left, run, drain, allow to cool, repeat, until what comes out is also clean. Make sure the heater valve is open. To refill add the correct amount of neat coolant for the system capacity and your required dilution, then top-up with water. For initial top-ups while it is purging itself of air use plain water, after that use a dilute mix. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- So, how do I get all the old coolant out of the engine since the coolant drain plug isn't functional, and since there will likely be water left inside the block, how do I properly dilute the green coolant? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dan.dibiase at gmail.com Wed May 8 10:16:58 2019 From: dan.dibiase at gmail.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Wed, 8 May 2019 12:16:58 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On my '76B, with '77 engine, there is no drain valve. You have to pull the lowest radiator hose off the water pump to drain the coolant. It's a mess. Need a really wide pan on the ground underneath, and even then it tends to run along the front crossmember and steering rack and make a mess. Dan D Central NJ USA http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ On Wed, May 8, 2019 at 11:26 AM wkilleffer--- via Mgs wrote: > Hello everyone, > > The car I will be working on is a 1974 B with an 18GK engine. It uses one > of those metal junctions that attaches a short hose tobthe water pump, > lower radiator hose, and hose to the heater core. > > I will be replacing the radiator, radiator cap, all hoses, and putting in > a 180 (or 185deg) thermostat. All the parts are coming from Vicky Brit. > > Unfortunately, I found out the hard way that the yellow so-called > universal coolant doesn't work well with brass and copper radiators, which > is why I'm doing this work. > > My engine has a coolant drain plug near the oil gauge takeoff near the > back of the engine. However, I have never been able to get anything to > drain out of it. I'm willing to have another go at it, but not expecting m > uch. > > So, how do I get all the old coolant out of the engine since the coolant > drain plug isn't functional, and since there will likely be water left > inside the block, how do I properly dilute the green coolant? > > Thank you, > -William > > *Sent from my LG Mobile* > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed May 8 11:19:43 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 8 May 2019 10:19:43 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: jack up the rear of the car Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Wed, May 8, 2019 at 8:50 AM PaulHunt73 via Mgs wrote: > About the only thing you can do - short of removing the engine and tipping > it upside down - is to keep refilling with clean water to dilute what's > left, run, drain, allow to cool, repeat, until what comes out is also > clean. Make sure the heater valve is open. > > To refill add the correct amount of neat coolant for the system capacity > and your required dilution, then top-up with water. For initial top-ups > while it is purging itself of air use plain water, after that use a dilute > mix. > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > So, how do I get all the old coolant out of the engine since the coolant > drain plug isn't functional, and since there will likely be water left > inside the block, how do I properly dilute the green coolant? > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rshellen at comcast.net Wed May 8 16:30:10 2019 From: rshellen at comcast.net (EARL Shellenberger) Date: Wed, 8 May 2019 18:30:10 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Mgs] Coolant draining In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1146277801.123826.1557354611264@connect.xfinity.com> Remove the drain tap on side of engine, there is a small passage that goes up to water passage. Is always plugged with debris, will take a lot of fiddling to get a stiff wire to get up into water passage. I always had the same problem and gave up, however on the last rebuild I decided to figure it out, with head off I dug out the top portion of passage to verify that it was really there, then it took so time to bend wire right and up thru drain hole. It is there and will drain just takes patience to work a wire up thru to clear passage. Ron Shellenberger > On May 8, 2019 at 2:00 PM mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > > Send Mgs mailing list submissions to > mgs at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > mgs-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > mgs-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Mgs digest..." > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Coolant draining on an MGB (wkilleffer at epbfi.com) > 2. Re: Coolant draining on an MGB (PaulHunt73) > 3. Re: Coolant draining on an MGB (Dan DiBiase) > 4. Re: Coolant draining on an MGB (i erbs) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Wed, 08 May 2019 11:26:17 -0400 > From: "wkilleffer at epbfi.com" > To: "mgs at autox.team.net" > Subject: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Hello everyone,The car I will be working on is a 1974 B with an 18GK engine. It uses one of those metal junctions that attaches a short hose tobthe water pump, lower radiator hose, and hose to the heater core.?I will be replacing the radiator, radiator cap, all hoses, and putting in a 180 (or 185deg) thermostat. All the parts are coming from Vicky Brit.?Unfortunately, I found out the hard way that the yellow so-called universal coolant doesn't work well with brass and copper radiators, which is why I'm doing this work.?My engine has a coolant drain plug near the oil gauge takeoff near the back of the engine. However, I have never been able to get anything to drain out of it. I'm willing to have another go at it, but not expecting much.?So, how do I get all the old coolant out of the engine since the coolant drain plug isn't functional, and since there will likely be water left inside the block, how do I properly dilute the green coolant?Thank you,-WilliamSent from my LG Mobile > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Wed, 8 May 2019 16:48:41 +0100 > From: "PaulHunt73" > To: , > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > About the only thing you can do - short of removing the engine and tipping it upside down - is to keep refilling with clean water to dilute what's left, run, drain, allow to cool, repeat, until what comes out is also clean. Make sure the heater valve is open. > > To refill add the correct amount of neat coolant for the system capacity and your required dilution, then top-up with water. For initial top-ups while it is purging itself of air use plain water, after that use a dilute mix. > > PaulH. > ----- Original Message ----- > > > So, how do I get all the old coolant out of the engine since the coolant drain plug isn't functional, and since there will likely be water left inside the block, how do I properly dilute the green coolant? > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Wed, 8 May 2019 12:16:58 -0400 > From: Dan DiBiase > To: "wkilleffer at epbfi.com" > Cc: "mgs at autox.team.net" > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > On my '76B, with '77 engine, there is no drain valve. You have to pull the > lowest radiator hose off the water pump to drain the coolant. It's a mess. > Need a really wide pan on the ground underneath, and even then it tends to > run along the front crossmember and steering rack and make a mess. > > Dan D > Central NJ USA > http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ > > > On Wed, May 8, 2019 at 11:26 AM wkilleffer--- via Mgs > wrote: > > > Hello everyone, > > > > The car I will be working on is a 1974 B with an 18GK engine. It uses one > > of those metal junctions that attaches a short hose tobthe water pump, > > lower radiator hose, and hose to the heater core. > > > > I will be replacing the radiator, radiator cap, all hoses, and putting in > > a 180 (or 185deg) thermostat. All the parts are coming from Vicky Brit. > > > > Unfortunately, I found out the hard way that the yellow so-called > > universal coolant doesn't work well with brass and copper radiators, which > > is why I'm doing this work. > > > > My engine has a coolant drain plug near the oil gauge takeoff near the > > back of the engine. However, I have never been able to get anything to > > drain out of it. I'm willing to have another go at it, but not expecting m > > uch. > > > > So, how do I get all the old coolant out of the engine since the coolant > > drain plug isn't functional, and since there will likely be water left > > inside the block, how do I properly dilute the green coolant? > > > > Thank you, > > -William > > > > *Sent from my LG Mobile* > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Wed, 8 May 2019 10:19:43 -0700 > From: i erbs > To: PaulHunt73 > Cc: wkilleffer at epbfi.com, mglist > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > jack up the rear of the car > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB [image: MG] > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > On Wed, May 8, 2019 at 8:50 AM PaulHunt73 via Mgs > wrote: > > > About the only thing you can do - short of removing the engine and tipping > > it upside down - is to keep refilling with clean water to dilute what's > > left, run, drain, allow to cool, repeat, until what comes out is also > > clean. Make sure the heater valve is open. > > > > To refill add the correct amount of neat coolant for the system capacity > > and your required dilution, then top-up with water. For initial top-ups > > while it is purging itself of air use plain water, after that use a dilute > > mix. > > > > PaulH. > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > > > So, how do I get all the old coolant out of the engine since the coolant > > drain plug isn't functional, and since there will likely be water left > > inside the block, how do I properly dilute the green coolant? > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > Mgs mailing list > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Mgs Digest, Vol 144, Issue 5 > *********************************** From richardolindsay at gmail.com Wed May 8 16:43:01 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Wed, 8 May 2019 17:43:01 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Coolant draining In-Reply-To: <1146277801.123826.1557354611264@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1146277801.123826.1557354611264@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: Sorry to join the conversation late, and I don't mean to hijack the theme but... What kind of cleaning product might one use to flush the block? Rick On Wed, May 8, 2019, 5:30 PM EARL Shellenberger via Mgs wrote: > Remove the drain tap on side of engine, there is a small passage that goes > up to water passage. Is always plugged with debris, will take a lot of > fiddling to get a stiff wire to get up into water passage. I always had the > same problem and gave up, however on the last rebuild I decided to figure > it out, with head off I dug out the top portion of passage to verify that > it was really there, then it took so time to bend wire right and up thru > drain hole. It is there and will drain just takes patience to work a wire > up thru to clear passage. > Ron Shellenberger > > On May 8, 2019 at 2:00 PM mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > > > > > Send Mgs mailing list submissions to > > mgs at autox.team.net > > > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > > mgs-request at autox.team.net > > > > You can reach the person managing the list at > > mgs-owner at autox.team.net > > > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > > than "Re: Contents of Mgs digest..." > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > > > > > Today's Topics: > > > > 1. Coolant draining on an MGB (wkilleffer at epbfi.com) > > 2. Re: Coolant draining on an MGB (PaulHunt73) > > 3. Re: Coolant draining on an MGB (Dan DiBiase) > > 4. Re: Coolant draining on an MGB (i erbs) > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > Message: 1 > > Date: Wed, 08 May 2019 11:26:17 -0400 > > From: "wkilleffer at epbfi.com" > > To: "mgs at autox.team.net" > > Subject: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB > > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > > > Hello everyone,The car I will be working on is a 1974 B with an 18GK > engine. It uses one of those metal junctions that attaches a short hose > tobthe water pump, lower radiator hose, and hose to the heater core.?I will > be replacing the radiator, radiator cap, all hoses, and putting in a 180 > (or 185deg) thermostat. All the parts are coming from Vicky > Brit.?Unfortunately, I found out the hard way that the yellow so-called > universal coolant doesn't work well with brass and copper radiators, which > is why I'm doing this work.?My engine has a coolant drain plug near the oil > gauge takeoff near the back of the engine. However, I have never been able > to get anything to drain out of it. I'm willing to have another go at it, > but not expecting much.?So, how do I get all the old coolant out of the > engine since the coolant drain plug isn't functional, and since there will > likely be water left inside the block, how do I properly dilute the green > coolant?Thank you,-WilliamSent from my LG Mobile > > -------------- next part -------------- > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > > URL: < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/mgs/attachments/20190508/dc2fc5d0/attachment-0001.html > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > Message: 2 > > Date: Wed, 8 May 2019 16:48:41 +0100 > > From: "PaulHunt73" > > To: , > > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB > > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > > > About the only thing you can do - short of removing the engine and > tipping it upside down - is to keep refilling with clean water to dilute > what's left, run, drain, allow to cool, repeat, until what comes out is > also clean. Make sure the heater valve is open. > > > > To refill add the correct amount of neat coolant for the system capacity > and your required dilution, then top-up with water. For initial top-ups > while it is purging itself of air use plain water, after that use a dilute > mix. > > > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > > > So, how do I get all the old coolant out of the engine since the > coolant drain plug isn't functional, and since there will likely be water > left inside the block, how do I properly dilute the green coolant? > > -------------- next part -------------- > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > > URL: < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/mgs/attachments/20190508/e48bf4ec/attachment-0001.html > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > Message: 3 > > Date: Wed, 8 May 2019 12:16:58 -0400 > > From: Dan DiBiase > > To: "wkilleffer at epbfi.com" > > Cc: "mgs at autox.team.net" > > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB > > Message-ID: > > w at mail.gmail.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > > > On my '76B, with '77 engine, there is no drain valve. You have to pull > the > > lowest radiator hose off the water pump to drain the coolant. It's a > mess. > > Need a really wide pan on the ground underneath, and even then it tends > to > > run along the front crossmember and steering rack and make a mess. > > > > Dan D > > Central NJ USA > > http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ > > > > > > On Wed, May 8, 2019 at 11:26 AM wkilleffer--- via Mgs < > mgs at autox.team.net> > > wrote: > > > > > Hello everyone, > > > > > > The car I will be working on is a 1974 B with an 18GK engine. It uses > one > > > of those metal junctions that attaches a short hose tobthe water pump, > > > lower radiator hose, and hose to the heater core. > > > > > > I will be replacing the radiator, radiator cap, all hoses, and putting > in > > > a 180 (or 185deg) thermostat. All the parts are coming from Vicky Brit. > > > > > > Unfortunately, I found out the hard way that the yellow so-called > > > universal coolant doesn't work well with brass and copper radiators, > which > > > is why I'm doing this work. > > > > > > My engine has a coolant drain plug near the oil gauge takeoff near the > > > back of the engine. However, I have never been able to get anything to > > > drain out of it. I'm willing to have another go at it, but not > expecting m > > > uch. > > > > > > So, how do I get all the old coolant out of the engine since the > coolant > > > drain plug isn't functional, and since there will likely be water left > > > inside the block, how do I properly dilute the green coolant? > > > > > > Thank you, > > > -William > > > > > > *Sent from my LG Mobile* > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > > > Unsubscribe: > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > > URL: < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/mgs/attachments/20190508/6eb6e2a5/attachment-0001.html > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > Message: 4 > > Date: Wed, 8 May 2019 10:19:43 -0700 > > From: i erbs > > To: PaulHunt73 > > Cc: wkilleffer at epbfi.com, mglist > > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB > > Message-ID: > > < > CABXhz8_8QiNE3tGwopcCeznE+R3hEJTUAdGcjB6fisa5s2EQ+g at mail.gmail.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > > > jack up the rear of the car > > Ira Erbs > > Portland,OR > > _______ _______ > > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > > (_________________________) > > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > > > > 1967 MGB [image: MG] > > > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > > > > On Wed, May 8, 2019 at 8:50 AM PaulHunt73 via Mgs > > wrote: > > > > > About the only thing you can do - short of removing the engine and > tipping > > > it upside down - is to keep refilling with clean water to dilute what's > > > left, run, drain, allow to cool, repeat, until what comes out is also > > > clean. Make sure the heater valve is open. > > > > > > To refill add the correct amount of neat coolant for the system > capacity > > > and your required dilution, then top-up with water. For initial > top-ups > > > while it is purging itself of air use plain water, after that use a > dilute > > > mix. > > > > > > PaulH. > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > > > > > > So, how do I get all the old coolant out of the engine since the > coolant > > > drain plug isn't functional, and since there will likely be water left > > > inside the block, how do I properly dilute the green coolant? > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > > URL: < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/mgs/attachments/20190508/53da82c3/attachment-0001.html > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > Subject: Digest Footer > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs mailing list > > Mgs at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > End of Mgs Digest, Vol 144, Issue 5 > > *********************************** > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richardolindsay at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Charley38 at twc.com Wed May 8 17:20:35 2019 From: Charley38 at twc.com (Charley Robinson) Date: Wed, 8 May 2019 18:20:35 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Coolant draining In-Reply-To: References: <1146277801.123826.1557354611264@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <32b449ba-ad90-5fc8-dcae-5daaa04175c2@twc.com> If I ever have occasion to remove the radiator from my '69 B I'll take it to a radiator shop & have them put a drain fitting in it.? I'd? do the same to a replacement radiator before I installed it. CR From mvheim at sonic.net Wed May 8 17:25:00 2019 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Wed, 8 May 2019 16:25:00 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Coolant draining In-Reply-To: <32b449ba-ad90-5fc8-dcae-5daaa04175c2@twc.com> References: <1146277801.123826.1557354611264@connect.xfinity.com> <32b449ba-ad90-5fc8-dcae-5daaa04175c2@twc.com> Message-ID: <70209CC4-7774-451E-AC53-88A2188C3243@sonic.net> My 66 had a drain cock. And so does the aluminum replacement radiator, although it is a little annoying in operation ? spews sideways until it is wide open. -- Max Heim '66 MGB > On May 8, 2019, at 4:20 PM, Charley Robinson via Mgs wrote: > > > If I ever have occasion to remove the radiator from my '69 B I'll take it to a radiator shop & have them put a drain fitting in it. I'd do the same to a replacement radiator before I installed it. > > CR > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Thu May 9 01:28:49 2019 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Thu, 9 May 2019 08:28:49 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB References: Message-ID: <76E26ABAA5884D6C88DCC1E31767B7E9@paul> Even if you remove the radiator altogether the block is still half full of old coolant, and removing the water pump doesn't get much more out. Remember the original poster was asking how to get the bad coolant out. Having a drain point on the rad is convenient for a simple drain and refill, but that's all. You can drain a roadster cleanly without that by shoving a piece of card under the hose and past the cross-member over a bowl, slacken the hose clip and push it right back, then push a blunt screwdriver up between hose and rad port. It only trickles out, but I leave it to do that while I get on with the next phase of the job. I'd be surprised if the later engines didn't have the drain plug (replaced the tap a long time before that) below and to the right of the oil gauge connection, but try as I might with stiff wire I didn't get any more than a rusty dampness below it. Frequently clogged with casting sand, some have had to 'chisel' it out with rods after removing the head. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- On my '76B, with '77 engine, there is no drain valve. You have to pull the lowest radiator hose off the water pump to drain the coolant. It's a mess. Need a really wide pan on the ground underneath, and even then it tends to run along the front crossmember and steering rack and make a mess. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wkilleffer at epbfi.com Thu May 9 07:44:48 2019 From: wkilleffer at epbfi.com (wkilleffer at epbfi.com) Date: Thu, 09 May 2019 09:44:48 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB Message-ID: Yeah, I went out to the garage last night and tried, yet again, to get a piece of coathanger wire up into that passage without avail. I may have a more flexible piece of wire to try this evening. It may nit be the end of the world, but I like for things to work if they will. Had I known this would he an issue when I had the head off about five years ago, I would have tried to remedy it then.?Could I suck the coolant out with a shop vac?Sent from my LG Mobile------ Original message------From: PaulHunt73Date: Thu, May 9, 2019 3:44 AMTo: Dan DiBiase;wkilleffer at epbfi.com;Cc: mgs at autox.team.net;Subject:Re: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB Even if you remove the radiator altogether the block is still half full of old coolant, and removing the water pump doesn't get much more out.? Remember the original poster was asking how to get the bad coolant out.? Having a drain point on the rad is convenient for a simple drain and refill, but that's all. ? You can drain a roadster cleanly without that by shoving a piece of card under the hose and past the cross-member over a bowl, slacken the hose clip and push it right back, then push a blunt screwdriver up between hose and rad port.? It only trickles out, but I leave it to?do that while I get on with the next phase of the job. ? I'd be surprised if the later engines didn't have the drain plug (replaced the tap a long time before that) below and to the right of the oil gauge connection, but try as I might with stiff wire I didn't get any more than a rusty dampness below it.? Frequently clogged with casting sand, some have had to 'chisel' it out with rods after removing the head. ? PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- ? On my '76B, with '77 engine, there is no drain valve. You have to pull the lowest radiator hose off the water pump to drain the coolant. It's a mess. Need a really wide pan on the ground underneath, and even then it tends to run along the front crossmember and steering rack and make a mess. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Thu May 9 08:12:53 2019 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Thu, 9 May 2019 15:12:53 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB References: Message-ID: <646621B4DFF34124B0DC9D9672F77AD0@paul> Yes, but it would be tricky getting a tube in somewhere to go to the bottom of the block. You might have to take the pump off, that gives quite good access, then raise the rear of the car enough to tilt the engine forwards. Flush the heater as well, that's relatively easy. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Yeah, I went out to the garage last night and tried, yet again, to get a piece of coathanger wire up into that passage without avail. I may have a more flexible piece of wire to try this evening. It may nit be the end of the world, but I like for things to work if they will. Had I known this would he an issue when I had the head off about five years ago, I would have tried to remedy it then. Could I suck the coolant out with a shop vac? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Thu May 9 09:15:54 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Thu, 9 May 2019 10:15:54 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB In-Reply-To: <646621B4DFF34124B0DC9D9672F77AD0@paul> References: <646621B4DFF34124B0DC9D9672F77AD0@paul> Message-ID: I've often wrestled with this. I usually flush debris out by running the engine and flowing water through. However, any system that flushes tends to put the output debris in the radiator! How about disconnecting the TOP hose, feeding fresh water into the radiator, and ducting the output from the waterpump into a bucket? Anyone tried this? On Thu, May 9, 2019, 10:09 AM PaulHunt73 via Mgs wrote: > Yes, but it would be tricky getting a tube in somewhere to go to the > bottom of the block. You might have to take the pump off, that gives quite > good access, then raise the rear of the car enough to tilt the engine > forwards. Flush the heater as well, that's relatively easy. > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- > Yeah, I went out to the garage last night and tried, yet again, to get a > piece of coathanger wire up into that passage without avail. I may have a > more flexible piece of wire to try this evening. It may nit be the end of > the world, but I like for things to work if they will. Had I known this > would he an issue when I had the head off about five years ago, I would > have tried to remedy it then. > > Could I suck the coolant out with a shop vac? > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richardolindsay at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Thu May 9 09:37:35 2019 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Thu, 9 May 2019 16:37:35 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB References: <646621B4DFF34124B0DC9D9672F77AD0@paul> Message-ID: <300165058A0E4B54B37A1D3810A4C840@paul> Thermostat probably closed so that would need to be removed. Even then would the water take the shortest route? I.e. running the engine more effective? ----- Original Message ----- I've often wrestled with this. I usually flush debris out by running the engine and flowing water through. However, any system that flushes tends to put the output debris in the radiator! How about disconnecting the TOP hose, feeding fresh water into the radiator, and ducting the output from the waterpump into a bucket? Anyone tried this? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dcouncill at karamursel.org Thu May 9 09:54:28 2019 From: dcouncill at karamursel.org (David Councill) Date: Thu, 9 May 2019 08:54:28 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB In-Reply-To: References: <646621B4DFF34124B0DC9D9672F77AD0@paul> Message-ID: <005e01d5067f$7c653b40$752fb1c0$@karamursel.org> It has been a number of years since I have had the need to do a through cleaning and flush of the coolant system, my earlier 71BGT being one car in particular. So I am not sure how dated this is but there is or was a cleaning kit available at car parts stores that contained oxalic acid (crystalline form) that was poured into the radiator. Then the car was driven for 10-15 minutes, the coolant drained, and the system flushed. There was also a flush kit available from Prestone that introduces a tee in the heater to engine block hose that allows you to connect a water hose to it. With a hose connected and on, radiator cap removed, the system was flushed until the water was clear. I think the last time I used this method was on a Chevy S10 about 15 years ago. David Councill 1964 MGB 1967 MGBGT 1972 MGB From: Mgs On Behalf Of Richard Lindsay via Mgs Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2019 8:16 AM To: PaulHunt73 Cc: wkilleffer at epbfi.com; mgs at autox.team.net List Subject: Re: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB I've often wrestled with this. I usually flush debris out by running the engine and flowing water through. However, any system that flushes tends to put the output debris in the radiator! How about disconnecting the TOP hose, feeding fresh water into the radiator, and ducting the output from the waterpump into a bucket? Anyone tried this? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Thu May 9 10:53:42 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Thu, 9 May 2019 11:53:42 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB In-Reply-To: <300165058A0E4B54B37A1D3810A4C840@paul> References: <646621B4DFF34124B0DC9D9672F77AD0@paul> <300165058A0E4B54B37A1D3810A4C840@paul> Message-ID: All probably true, certainly the thermostat. I wonder if opening the block drain while flushing would help clear debris? The maximum safe cooling needed during a flush, with a running engine, would be the head. My interest in this topic, beyond the academic value, is that I am about to start a '75 Triumph TR6 that certainly has rust scale in the block (and head). The radiator has been reverse flushed and flows cleanly in both directions. I don't want to plug it up so I will do 'something'. Hummm... Rick On Thu, May 9, 2019, 10:52 AM PaulHunt73 wrote: > Thermostat probably closed so that would need to be removed. Even then > would the water take the shortest route? I.e. running the engine more > effective? > > ----- Original Message ----- > > I've often wrestled with this. I usually flush debris out by running the > engine and flowing water through. However, any system that flushes tends to > put the output debris in the radiator! How about disconnecting the TOP > hose, feeding fresh water into the radiator, and ducting the output from > the waterpump into a bucket? Anyone tried this? > >> > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From esinclai at pobox.com Thu May 9 12:57:24 2019 From: esinclai at pobox.com (Eric Sinclair) Date: Thu, 9 May 2019 13:57:24 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGA looking for a good home Message-ID: Hello - This is a tough decision, but - I have my father's 1961 MGA, in improper storage for these past 20 years... And I have come to the conclusion that in my life I probably won't get the opportunity to give it the love it deserves (nor do I have a place in Chicago to store it properly - it's in Southern Indiana presently). Is anyone on the list in Indiana or nearby who might be interested in looking at it? It may be a parts car rather than restoration project, but... If someone in the Chicago area is interested, I would be honored to visit the results... Eric -- esinclai at pobox.com (e) esinclai @ * (im) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu May 9 13:53:34 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 9 May 2019 12:53:34 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGA looking for a good home In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: can you post photos? Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, May 9, 2019 at 11:59 AM Eric Sinclair via Mgs wrote: > Hello - > > This is a tough decision, but - I have my father's 1961 MGA, in improper > storage for these past 20 years... And I have come to the conclusion that > in my life I probably won't get the opportunity to give it the love it > deserves (nor do I have a place in Chicago to store it properly - it's in > Southern Indiana presently). > > Is anyone on the list in Indiana or nearby who might be interested in > looking at it? It may be a parts car rather than restoration project, but... > > If someone in the Chicago area is interested, I would be honored to visit > the results... > > Eric > > > > -- > esinclai at pobox.com (e) > esinclai @ * (im) > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From esinclai at pobox.com Thu May 9 13:57:15 2019 From: esinclai at pobox.com (Eric Sinclair) Date: Thu, 9 May 2019 14:57:15 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGA looking for a good home In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Ira (et al.) - Yes, I am sure that would be very helpful for all. I'll try and do so in the next few weeks (I need to take some better (and more current) ones. Eric On Thu, May 9, 2019 at 2:53 PM i erbs wrote: > can you post photos? > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB [image: MG] > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > On Thu, May 9, 2019 at 11:59 AM Eric Sinclair via Mgs > wrote: > >> Hello - >> >> This is a tough decision, but - I have my father's 1961 MGA, in improper >> storage for these past 20 years... And I have come to the conclusion that >> in my life I probably won't get the opportunity to give it the love it >> deserves (nor do I have a place in Chicago to store it properly - it's in >> Southern Indiana presently). >> >> Is anyone on the list in Indiana or nearby who might be interested in >> looking at it? It may be a parts car rather than restoration project, but... >> >> If someone in the Chicago area is interested, I would be honored to visit >> the results... >> >> Eric >> >> >> >> -- >> esinclai at pobox.com (e) >> esinclai @ * (im) >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> > -- esinclai at pobox.com http://kittyjoyce.com/eric/ IM: esinclai @ * gv: +1-773-336-2511 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Charley38 at twc.com Thu May 9 15:52:20 2019 From: Charley38 at twc.com (Charley Robinson) Date: Thu, 9 May 2019 16:52:20 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB In-Reply-To: <76E26ABAA5884D6C88DCC1E31767B7E9@paul> References: <76E26ABAA5884D6C88DCC1E31767B7E9@paul> Message-ID: You can get the old coolant out of the block by exchanging it for water.?? A couple of fills and drains ought to do it.? Or you can do it by trickling water in at the top while letting it out at the bottom, with the engine warmed up and running, until it runs out clear at the bottom.? Then shut it down, drain it as completely as possible, button it up and refill it with the coolant of your choice*after it cools down. *I used to flush out rusty coolant this way when I was into flipping cars to raise hobby money. CR -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Thu May 9 20:26:08 2019 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Thu, 9 May 2019 21:26:08 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB In-Reply-To: References: <646621B4DFF34124B0DC9D9672F77AD0@paul> <300165058A0E4B54B37A1D3810A4C840@paul> Message-ID: <000501d506d7$ba3a83f0$2eaf8bd0$@ranteer.com> Here is what I do ? remove the thermostat, then put a pvc pipe into the radiator outlet hose that extends beyond the car so that the water doesn?t get thrown around by the fan, put a running water hose in the inlet hose, and run the engine until the water runs clear. Open the heater as much as possible as well. Although I have never done it, I have thought about buying a couple gallons of rust remover and putting that in the engine and letting it sit for a day or two. Has anyone actually done that? From: Mgs On Behalf Of Richard Lindsay via Mgs Sent: Thursday, May 9, 2019 11:54 AM To: PaulHunt73 Cc: wkilleffer at epbfi.com; mgs at autox.team.net List Subject: Re: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB All probably true, certainly the thermostat. I wonder if opening the block drain while flushing would help clear debris? The maximum safe cooling needed during a flush, with a running engine, would be the head. My interest in this topic, beyond the academic value, is that I am about to start a '75 Triumph TR6 that certainly has rust scale in the block (and head). The radiator has been reverse flushed and flows cleanly in both directions. I don't want to plug it up so I will do 'something'. Hummm... Rick On Thu, May 9, 2019, 10:52 AM PaulHunt73 > wrote: Thermostat probably closed so that would need to be removed. Even then would the water take the shortest route? I.e. running the engine more effective? ----- Original Message ----- I've often wrestled with this. I usually flush debris out by running the engine and flowing water through. However, any system that flushes tends to put the output debris in the radiator! How about disconnecting the TOP hose, feeding fresh water into the radiator, and ducting the output from the waterpump into a bucket? Anyone tried this? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Charley38 at twc.com Thu May 9 08:35:51 2019 From: Charley38 at twc.com (Charley Robinson) Date: Thu, 9 May 2019 09:35:51 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB In-Reply-To: <76E26ABAA5884D6C88DCC1E31767B7E9@paul> References: <76E26ABAA5884D6C88DCC1E31767B7E9@paul> Message-ID: <7afd816b-b115-6b74-3a7c-306026719442@twc.com> You can get the old coolant out of the block by exchanging it for water.?? A couple of fills and drains ought to do it.? Or you can do it by trickling water in at the top while letting it out at the bottom, with the engine warmed up and running, until it runs out clear at the bottom.? Then shut it down, drain it as completely as possible, button it up and refill it with the coolant of your choice*after it cools down. *I used to flush out rusty coolant this way when I was into flipping cars to raise hobby money. CR On 5/9/2019 2:28 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs wrote: > ? > Even if you remove the radiator altogether the block is still half > full of old coolant, and removing the water pump doesn't get much more > out.? Remember the original poster was asking how to get the bad > coolant out. Having a drain point on the rad is convenient for a > simple drain and refill, but that's all. > You can drain a roadster cleanly without that by shoving a piece of > card under the hose and past the cross-member over a bowl, slacken the > hose clip and push it right back, then push a blunt screwdriver up > between hose and rad port.? It only trickles out, but I leave it to?do > that while I get on with the next phase of the job. > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- > On my '76B, with '77 engine, there is no drain valve. You have to > pull the lowest radiator hose off the water pump to drain the > coolant. It's a mess. Need a really wide pan on the ground > underneath, and even then it tends to run along the front > crossmember and steering rack and make a mess. > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu May 9 08:41:28 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 9 May 2019 07:41:28 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I am working to drain the coolant from my Healey to flush the cooling system ahead of swapping in an Aluminum Radiator. The heater valve on the block is stuck open. Not a bad thing, but I want it to work, so I have been messing with it off and on the two weeks. So yes I get the idea of wanting things to work. Cheers Will be attacking my B this summer, so this discussion is very helpful Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, May 9, 2019 at 6:45 AM wkilleffer--- via Mgs wrote: > Yeah, I went out to the garage last night and tried, yet again, to get a > piece of coathanger wire up into that passage without avail. I may have a > more flexible piece of wire to try this evening. It may nit be the end of > the world, but I like for things to work if they will. Had I known this > would he an issue when I had the head off about five years ago, I would > have tried to remedy it then. > > Could I suck the coolant out with a shop vac? > > *Sent from my LG Mobile* > > ------ Original message------ > *From: *PaulHunt73 > *Date: *Thu, May 9, 2019 3:44 AM > *To: *Dan DiBiase;wkilleffer at epbfi.com; > *Cc: *mgs at autox.team.net; > *Subject:*Re: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB > > Even if you remove the radiator altogether the block is still half full of > old coolant, and removing the water pump doesn't get much more out. > Remember the original poster was asking how to get the bad coolant out. Having > a drain point on the rad is convenient for a simple drain and refill, but > that's all. > > You can drain a roadster cleanly without that by shoving a piece of card > under the hose and past the cross-member over a bowl, slacken the hose clip > and push it right back, then push a blunt screwdriver up between hose and > rad port. It only trickles out, but I leave it to do that while I get on > with the next phase of the job. > > I'd be surprised if the later engines didn't have the drain plug (replaced > the tap a long time before that) below and to the right of the oil gauge > connection, but try as I might with stiff wire I didn't get any more than a > rusty dampness below it. Frequently clogged with casting sand, some have > had to 'chisel' it out with rods after removing the head. > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > On my '76B, with '77 engine, there is no drain valve. You have to pull the > lowest radiator hose off the water pump to drain the coolant. It's a mess. > Need a really wide pan on the ground underneath, and even then it tends to > run along the front crossmember and steering rack and make a mess. > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From thgun at comporium.net Fri May 10 10:48:47 2019 From: thgun at comporium.net (Thomas Gunderson) Date: Fri, 10 May 2019 12:48:47 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Midget windshield Message-ID: <7B5403C7-3283-4DD1-B69F-666745D7048E@comporium.net> Does anybody need a Midget windshield? Complete with frame. Ready to mount. Tom Gunderson 1957 MGA 1500 rst Sent from my iPhone X From dave at ranteer.com Sat May 18 10:33:05 2019 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Sat, 18 May 2019 11:33:05 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] bad clutch or? Message-ID: <003001d50d97$5f101550$1d303ff0$@ranteer.com> 59 mga, sat for 3 years. Runs nicely now. Fine if you start in neutral If you start in any gear it starts creeping, even with clutch in Before I pull engine and tran to replace clutch, is it possible that they are rusted together? maybe there is a way to unfreeze the clutch and pressure plate? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From charleyrob at gmail.com Sat May 18 11:53:44 2019 From: charleyrob at gmail.com (Charley Robinson) Date: Sat, 18 May 2019 13:53:44 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] bad clutch or? In-Reply-To: <003001d50d97$5f101550$1d303ff0$@ranteer.com> References: <003001d50d97$5f101550$1d303ff0$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <1B6CDA96-01F5-4F9F-8656-BC796F2187DC@gmail.com> I was able to free mine by starting it in gear with the clutch depressed and then starting and stopping several times, all with the clutch depressed. Charley Robinson > On May 18, 2019, at 12:33 PM, dave via Mgs wrote: > > 59 mga, sat for 3 years. Runs nicely now. > > Fine if you start in neutral > > If you start in any gear it starts creeping, even with clutch in > > Before I pull engine and tran to replace clutch, is it possible that they are rusted together? maybe there is a way to unfreeze the clutch and pressure plate? > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charleyrob at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Sat May 18 17:35:57 2019 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (allenhess at mgcarclub.com) Date: Sat, 18 May 2019 19:35:57 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] bad clutch or? Message-ID: I?d check hydraulics first. If it was stuck I think you?d be doing more than creeping. Sent from my iPad > On May 18, 2019, at 12:33 PM, dave wrote: > > 59 mga, sat for 3 years. Runs nicely now. > > Fine if you start in neutral > > If you start in any gear it starts creeping, even with clutch in > > Before I pull engine and tran to replace clutch, is it possible that they are rusted together? maybe there is a way to unfreeze the clutch and pressure plate? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wkilleffer at epbfi.com Sat May 18 19:06:26 2019 From: wkilleffer at epbfi.com (wkilleffer at epbfi.com) Date: Sat, 18 May 2019 21:06:26 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Optima in West Sussex Message-ID: Hello everyone,I try not to ask off-topic questions on here, but my curiousity is getting the best of me.?Sometime around 2003, if I remember correctly, I bought a wicker picnic basket with settings for two at a British car show. It has a badge that says it was made by Optima in West Sussex. It's been stored away in a closet ever since. Just never got around to taking it on a picnic.?I got curious and tried to find out more about the company, but I'm not having much luck with that. A ten year old article in The Guardian seems to express that Optima is one of the biggest companies in that line, so you'd think there would be something more recent out there about them.?The only company with Optima in the name located in West Sussex does computer and IT support, amd has done so for 30 years. Seems odd that a company could change its focus, though it could happen, I guess.?As I said, I hate to bomb the list with an off-topic question,but I thought someone on here might know more than I do.?Thank you,-WilliamSent from my LG Mobile -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Sat May 18 19:37:57 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Sat, 18 May 2019 20:37:57 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Three cars Message-ID: Hello Friends, My TR6 project started and ran great today. First time in over10 years. The Maserati Biturbo E won't start but I have found the problem. Damaged distributor rotor. And most pertinent, my '53 TD started up and drove fine today after sitting unused for 3 weeks. It was a GOOD day. Just had to share. Rick -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ptroot at gmail.com Sat May 18 20:00:36 2019 From: ptroot at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Sat, 18 May 2019 21:00:36 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] [Mg-t] Three cars In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: That's a great day! On Sat, May 18, 2019, 8:38 PM Richard Lindsay wrote: > Hello Friends, > > My TR6 project started and ran great today. First time in over10 years. > The Maserati Biturbo E won't start but I have found the problem. > Damaged distributor rotor. > And most pertinent, my '53 TD started up and drove fine today after > sitting unused for 3 weeks. > It was a GOOD day. Just had to share. > > Rick > ______________________________________________ > > Mg-t at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/ptroot at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From barrob at bell.net Sun May 19 08:25:55 2019 From: barrob at bell.net (Barrie Robinson) Date: Sun, 19 May 2019 10:25:55 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] [Mg-t] Three cars In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7325704d-7a8e-4456-52c2-468afc9f228c@bell.net> Hello Rick, I was interested to see you had a Biturbo.? I bought one in 1985 and was delighted with it - the sixth one in Canada. A bit tricky rear end but boy! did she motor.? The dealership lent me a car for the days when I brought it in for its serving.? So I got to drive many different cars including a 1985 Corvette - what a pig that was !!!? My Biturbo was awesome until it got to 50k kilometers then everything went wrong.?? Every month I had to have something fixed, every month big bills so I sold it and generously passed it on to an unsuspecting young man.?? But nice car? - except it was under developed. On 5/18/2019 10:00 PM, Paul Root via Mgs wrote: > That's a great day! > > On Sat, May 18, 2019, 8:38 PM Richard Lindsay > > wrote: > > Hello Friends, > > ? ?My TR6 project started and ran great today. First time in > over10 years. > ? ?The Maserati Biturbo E won't start but I have found the > problem. Damaged distributor rotor. > ? And most pertinent, my '53 TD started up and drove fine today > after sitting unused for 3 weeks. > ? ?It was a GOOD day. Just had to share. > > Rick > ______________________________________________ > > Mg-t at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/ptroot at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrob at bell.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Mon May 20 01:17:43 2019 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Mon, 20 May 2019 08:17:43 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] bad clutch or? References: Message-ID: Agree, it would be like the clutch was fully engaged. Most likely hydraulics as said, or possibly pilot bearing or friction plate binding. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- I?d check hydraulics first. If it was stuck I think you?d be doing more than creeping. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Mon May 20 12:29:36 2019 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Mon, 20 May 2019 13:29:36 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] bad clutch or? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <006501d50f39$fa9a8200$efcf8600$@ranteer.com> Picked it up today ? when you start it in gear, it starts moving. Accelerate and it goes, and if you put in the clutch, it takes most of the pressure off but it still creeps. Am thinking that I?ll bleed the clutch slave cylinder. After that I?m thinking I need to replace the clutch . . . From: PaulHunt73 Sent: Monday, May 20, 2019 2:18 AM To: dave Cc: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] bad clutch or? Agree, it would be like the clutch was fully engaged. Most likely hydraulics as said, or possibly pilot bearing or friction plate binding. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- I?d check hydraulics first. If it was stuck I think you?d be doing more than creeping. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frankk12 at verizon.net Mon May 20 20:50:51 2019 From: frankk12 at verizon.net (FrankK) Date: Mon, 20 May 2019 22:50:51 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] bad clutch or? In-Reply-To: <006501d50f39$fa9a8200$efcf8600$@ranteer.com> References: <006501d50f39$fa9a8200$efcf8600$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <2ED0BFE96C2949DABE8CDC03F49EF0E8@FrankPC> When that happened in my MGA it was the hose to the slave cylinder that had failed. It is not apparent from just looking at it because the failure is inside the hose, same as the brake line hoses. That was an easier fix than replacing the clutch. Even replacing the slave or rebuilding it is far less labor intensive than pulling the motor and gearbox to get to the disc and pressure plate. Frank Krajewski From: dave via Mgs Sent: Monday, May 20, 2019 2:29 PM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] bad clutch or? Picked it up today ? when you start it in gear, it starts moving. Accelerate and it goes, and if you put in the clutch, it takes most of the pressure off but it still creeps. Am thinking that I?ll bleed the clutch slave cylinder. After that I?m thinking I need to replace the clutch . . . From: PaulHunt73 Sent: Monday, May 20, 2019 2:18 AM To: dave Cc: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] bad clutch or? Agree, it would be like the clutch was fully engaged. Most likely hydraulics as said, or possibly pilot bearing or friction plate binding. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- I?d check hydraulics first. If it was stuck I think you?d be doing more than creeping. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/frankk12 at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From barrob at bell.net Tue May 21 11:50:00 2019 From: barrob at bell.net (Barrie Robinson) Date: Tue, 21 May 2019 13:50:00 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Rear mounted power antenna Message-ID: Hello Folks, I had a radio put in my 1969/70 MGB GT - A Pioneer because it had a rear facility for a remote USB.? The *33*page instruction book had about half a page on the radio part - rest devoted to stuff of mysterious natures-(what the hell is Spotify - and who wants to pay for Sirius).? But despite its long list of features it could not bring in my favourite /advert free/ FM station.? So a powered antenna seems to be the answer.? I want to mount it on the rear mudguard but the space is limited.? Has anyone got a rear mounted power antenna?? If so do you pictures you can send - my antenna is from Reproduction Sound (very small and fits the rear space easily) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Barrie' signature.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2175 bytes Desc: not available URL: From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Tue May 21 13:06:41 2019 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Tue, 21 May 2019 21:06:41 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] bad clutch or? In-Reply-To: <2ED0BFE96C2949DABE8CDC03F49EF0E8@FrankPC> References: <006501d50f39$fa9a8200$efcf8600$@ranteer.com> <2ED0BFE96C2949DABE8CDC03F49EF0E8@FrankPC> Message-ID: <003801d51008$5317f740$f947e5c0$@planet.nl> Agree with you Frank, I had the same with the original clutch slave hose. Due to being old, the hose was not letting any fluid through anymore. Also my advise to replace the slave cylinder piston rubber. Low cost, easy to do. Clean thoroughly and have the cylinder wall of the slave cylinder well checked for burr markings. Make everything smooth before reassembling and your slave cylinder will work well for ages. Cheers, Hans 71 BGT NRG Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens FrankK via Mgs Verzonden: dinsdag 21 mei 2019 4:51 Aan: dave CC: mgs at autox.team.net Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] bad clutch or? When that happened in my MGA it was the hose to the slave cylinder that had failed. It is not apparent from just looking at it because the failure is inside the hose, same as the brake line hoses. That was an easier fix than replacing the clutch. Even replacing the slave or rebuilding it is far less labor intensive than pulling the motor and gearbox to get to the disc and pressure plate. Frank Krajewski From: dave via Mgs Sent: Monday, May 20, 2019 2:29 PM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] bad clutch or? Picked it up today ? when you start it in gear, it starts moving. Accelerate and it goes, and if you put in the clutch, it takes most of the pressure off but it still creeps. Am thinking that I?ll bleed the clutch slave cylinder. After that I?m thinking I need to replace the clutch . . . From: PaulHunt73 Sent: Monday, May 20, 2019 2:18 AM To: dave Cc: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] bad clutch or? Agree, it would be like the clutch was fully engaged. Most likely hydraulics as said, or possibly pilot bearing or friction plate binding. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- I?d check hydraulics first. If it was stuck I think you?d be doing more than creeping. _____ _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/frankk12 at verizon.net --- Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Tue May 21 13:13:38 2019 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Tue, 21 May 2019 21:13:38 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Rear mounted power antenna In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <003d01d51009$4bb8ccd0$e32a6670$@planet.nl> Hi Barrie, Why not using your cell phone and have it connected to your radio by means of Bluetooth. On your phone you can select either a nice streaming service like Spotify ? lots of its music is not to be paid for and a subscription is not expensive as well. And yes ? Spotify is not a US based service, in fact it?s Swedish. If you still like to select true radio, there are plenty radio stations on the internet. Saves an extra hole in your GT and most of all a potential water inlet! Just my 2 Euro cents? Cheers, Hans 71 BGT NRG Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Barrie Robinson via Mgs Verzonden: dinsdag 21 mei 2019 19:50 Aan: MGB List; MGB V8 List Onderwerp: [Mgs] Rear mounted power antenna Hello Folks, I had a radio put in my 1969/70 MGB GT - A Pioneer because it had a rear facility for a remote USB. The 33 page instruction book had about half a page on the radio part - rest devoted to stuff of mysterious natures-(what the hell is Spotify - and who wants to pay for Sirius). But despite its long list of features it could not bring in my favourite advert free FM station. So a powered antenna seems to be the answer. I want to mount it on the rear mudguard but the space is limited. Has anyone got a rear mounted power antenna? If so do you pictures you can send - my antenna is from Reproduction Sound (very small and fits the rear space easily) --- Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2175 bytes Desc: not available URL: From Charley38 at twc.com Tue May 21 14:06:50 2019 From: Charley38 at twc.com (Charley Robinson) Date: Tue, 21 May 2019 15:06:50 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Rear mounted power antenna In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Before I'd drill any holes in the car I'd prop the antenna on top of the car and see if it pulls in the station you're after.? How's that new radio do on other stations? CR On 5/21/2019 12:50 PM, Barrie Robinson via Mgs wrote: > Reproduction Sound -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Tue May 21 19:50:28 2019 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Tue, 21 May 2019 20:50:28 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] bad clutch or? In-Reply-To: <003801d51008$5317f740$f947e5c0$@planet.nl> References: <006501d50f39$fa9a8200$efcf8600$@ranteer.com> <2ED0BFE96C2949DABE8CDC03F49EF0E8@FrankPC> <003801d51008$5317f740$f947e5c0$@planet.nl> Message-ID: <006c01d51040$bbcbbaa0$33632fe0$@ranteer.com> Excellent advice all around!!! Picked up a new hose today; slave cylinder on the way. Figure that?s way easier than pulling the engine/tranny. Hope to get the hose in this week; slave will be here next week. From: Hans Duinhoven Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2019 2:07 PM To: 'FrankK' ; 'dave' Cc: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Mgs] bad clutch or? Agree with you Frank, I had the same with the original clutch slave hose. Due to being old, the hose was not letting any fluid through anymore. Also my advise to replace the slave cylinder piston rubber. Low cost, easy to do. Clean thoroughly and have the cylinder wall of the slave cylinder well checked for burr markings. Make everything smooth before reassembling and your slave cylinder will work well for ages. Cheers, Hans 71 BGT NRG Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens FrankK via Mgs Verzonden: dinsdag 21 mei 2019 4:51 Aan: dave CC: mgs at autox.team.net Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] bad clutch or? When that happened in my MGA it was the hose to the slave cylinder that had failed. It is not apparent from just looking at it because the failure is inside the hose, same as the brake line hoses. That was an easier fix than replacing the clutch. Even replacing the slave or rebuilding it is far less labor intensive than pulling the motor and gearbox to get to the disc and pressure plate. Frank Krajewski From: dave via Mgs Sent: Monday, May 20, 2019 2:29 PM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] bad clutch or? Picked it up today ? when you start it in gear, it starts moving. Accelerate and it goes, and if you put in the clutch, it takes most of the pressure off but it still creeps. Am thinking that I?ll bleed the clutch slave cylinder. After that I?m thinking I need to replace the clutch . . . From: PaulHunt73 > Sent: Monday, May 20, 2019 2:18 AM To: dave > Cc: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] bad clutch or? Agree, it would be like the clutch was fully engaged. Most likely hydraulics as said, or possibly pilot bearing or friction plate binding. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- I?d check hydraulics first. If it was stuck I think you?d be doing more than creeping. _____ _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/frankk12 at verizon.net Virusvrij. www.avast.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Wed May 22 01:27:45 2019 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Wed, 22 May 2019 08:27:45 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Rear mounted power antenna References: Message-ID: <74937B8D4DED40CD9E3AA9C207C84455@paul> Why the rear and not the front? I know aeons ago it was supposed to better the furthest away from the ignition, but that doesn't apply with even an MGB correctly suppressed system, and mounting in the front wing cavity behind the splash panel is completely screened from the engine compartment anyway. On the right-hand side there is even a ready-made grommetted hole through to the footwell. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- ... I want to mount it on the rear mudguard but the space is limited... -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dan.dibiase at gmail.com Wed May 22 05:02:56 2019 From: dan.dibiase at gmail.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Wed, 22 May 2019 07:02:56 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Rear mounted power antenna In-Reply-To: <003d01d51009$4bb8ccd0$e32a6670$@planet.nl> References: <003d01d51009$4bb8ccd0$e32a6670$@planet.nl> Message-ID: Good point, Hans. Not sure they have it in Europe, but 'iHeartRadio' is a radio streaming service that has all sorts of commercial radio stations, and I believe it is free. It could also be streamed via Bluetooth from the phone, saving drilling a hole and running a wire. And if you do go the Spotify route, check out my son's band *Tweed*! Dan D Central NJ USA http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ On Tue, May 21, 2019 at 3:13 PM Hans Duinhoven via Mgs wrote: > Hi Barrie, > > > > Why not using your cell phone and have it connected to your radio by means > of Bluetooth. > > On your phone you can select either a nice streaming service like Spotify > ? lots of its music is not to be paid for and a subscription is not > expensive as well. > > And yes ? Spotify is not a US based service, in fact it?s Swedish. > > If you still like to select true radio, there are plenty radio stations on > the internet. > > Saves an extra hole in your GT and most of all a potential water inlet! > > > > Just my 2 Euro cents? > > > > Cheers, > > Hans > > 71 BGT NRG > > > > *Van:* Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] *Namens *Barrie Robinson > via Mgs > *Verzonden:* dinsdag 21 mei 2019 19:50 > *Aan:* MGB List; MGB V8 List > *Onderwerp:* [Mgs] Rear mounted power antenna > > > > Hello Folks, > > I had a radio put in my 1969/70 MGB GT - A Pioneer because it had a rear > facility for a remote USB. The *33* page instruction book had about half > a page on the radio part - rest devoted to stuff of mysterious > natures-(what the hell is Spotify - and who wants to pay for Sirius). But > despite its long list of features it could not bring in my favourite *advert > free* FM station. So a powered antenna seems to be the answer. I want > to mount it on the rear mudguard but the space is limited. Has anyone got > a rear mounted power antenna? If so do you pictures you can send - my > antenna is from Reproduction Sound (very small and fits the rear space > easily) > > > > Virusvrij. > www.avast.com > > <#m_-8413883382840383821_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2175 bytes Desc: not available URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Wed May 22 20:39:48 2019 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Wed, 22 May 2019 19:39:48 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Rear mounted power antenna In-Reply-To: References: <003d01d51009$4bb8ccd0$e32a6670$@planet.nl> Message-ID: If you are going to depend on your phone, then you need a charging port. Alternatively, there are hidden antennas, which would avoid having to cut holes anywhere. I had the shop weld up the antenna hole on mine ? no plans for radio at all. Then of course at the show I went to on Sunday, I won a raffle prize ? a car stereo. I do have a charging port, however ? I installed it so my navigator could keep a map running. -- Max Heim '66 MGB > On May 22, 2019, at 4:02 AM, Dan DiBiase via Mgs wrote: > > Good point, Hans. Not sure they have it in Europe, but 'iHeartRadio' is a radio streaming service that has all sorts of commercial radio stations, and I believe it is free. It could also be streamed via Bluetooth from the phone, saving drilling a hole and running a wire. > > And if you do go the Spotify route, check out my son's band Tweed! > > Dan D > Central NJ USA > http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ > > On Tue, May 21, 2019 at 3:13 PM Hans Duinhoven via Mgs > wrote: > Hi Barrie, > > > > Why not using your cell phone and have it connected to your radio by means of Bluetooth. > > On your phone you can select either a nice streaming service like Spotify ? lots of its music is not to be paid for and a subscription is not expensive as well. > > And yes ? Spotify is not a US based service, in fact it?s Swedish. > > If you still like to select true radio, there are plenty radio stations on the internet. > > Saves an extra hole in your GT and most of all a potential water inlet! > > > > Just my 2 Euro cents? > > > > Cheers, > > Hans > > 71 BGT NRG > > > > Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net ] Namens Barrie Robinson via Mgs > Verzonden: dinsdag 21 mei 2019 19:50 > Aan: MGB List; MGB V8 List > Onderwerp: [Mgs] Rear mounted power antenna > > > > Hello Folks, > > I had a radio put in my 1969/70 MGB GT - A Pioneer because it had a rear facility for a remote USB. The 33 page instruction book had about half a page on the radio part - rest devoted to stuff of mysterious natures-(what the hell is Spotify - and who wants to pay for Sirius). But despite its long list of features it could not bring in my favourite advert free FM station. So a powered antenna seems to be the answer. I want to mount it on the rear mudguard but the space is limited. Has anyone got a rear mounted power antenna? If so do you pictures you can send - my antenna is from Reproduction Sound (very small and fits the rear space easily) > > > > Virusvrij. www.avast.com _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2175 bytes Desc: not available URL: From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Fri May 24 12:30:12 2019 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Fri, 24 May 2019 20:30:12 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Rear mounted power antenna In-Reply-To: References: <003d01d51009$4bb8ccd0$e32a6670$@planet.nl> Message-ID: <009301d5125e$b9998710$2ccc9530$@planet.nl> Depends if the phone can work with a car based charger. In my 71 GT I have a cigar lighter (an official option these days according to the BMIHT certificate). So my Samsung phone can be charged with a nice 12 V to USB power converter, so power will not be a problem. These converters can be purchased for a few dollars. Having only one cigar lighter point should not be an issue, if both cell phone and navigator can be fed with a USB power feed. On the other hand, I just tried on my phone to use a web based streaming radio station and on a second tab running Google maps, which can be used to navigate ? problem solved. I also have seen MG B?s with a little antenna on top of the dash, but I do not know the quality of that. Cheers, Hans 71 BGT NRG Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Max Heim via Mgs Verzonden: donderdag 23 mei 2019 4:40 Aan: mgs at autox.team.net List Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Rear mounted power antenna If you are going to depend on your phone, then you need a charging port. Alternatively, there are hidden antennas, which would avoid having to cut holes anywhere. I had the shop weld up the antenna hole on mine ? no plans for radio at all. Then of course at the show I went to on Sunday, I won a raffle prize ? a car stereo. I do have a charging port, however ? I installed it so my navigator could keep a map running. -- Max Heim '66 MGB On May 22, 2019, at 4:02 AM, Dan DiBiase via Mgs wrote: Good point, Hans. Not sure they have it in Europe, but 'iHeartRadio' is a radio streaming service that has all sorts of commercial radio stations, and I believe it is free. It could also be streamed via Bluetooth from the phone, saving drilling a hole and running a wire. And if you do go the Spotify route, check out my son's band Tweed! Dan D Central NJ USA http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ On Tue, May 21, 2019 at 3:13 PM Hans Duinhoven via Mgs wrote: Hi Barrie, Why not using your cell phone and have it connected to your radio by means of Bluetooth. On your phone you can select either a nice streaming service like Spotify ? lots of its music is not to be paid for and a subscription is not expensive as well. And yes ? Spotify is not a US based service, in fact it?s Swedish. If you still like to select true radio, there are plenty radio stations on the internet. Saves an extra hole in your GT and most of all a potential water inlet! Just my 2 Euro cents? Cheers, Hans 71 BGT NRG Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Barrie Robinson via Mgs Verzonden: dinsdag 21 mei 2019 19:50 Aan: MGB List; MGB V8 List Onderwerp: [Mgs] Rear mounted power antenna Hello Folks, I had a radio put in my 1969/70 MGB GT - A Pioneer because it had a rear facility for a remote USB. The 33 page instruction book had about half a page on the radio part - rest devoted to stuff of mysterious natures-(what the hell is Spotify - and who wants to pay for Sirius). But despite its long list of features it could not bring in my favourite advert free FM station. So a powered antenna seems to be the answer. I want to mount it on the rear mudguard but the space is limited. Has anyone got a rear mounted power antenna? If so do you pictures you can send - my antenna is from Reproduction Sound (very small and fits the rear space easily) Virusvrij. www.avast.com _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net --- Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2175 bytes Desc: not available URL: From dave at ranteer.com Sun May 26 13:39:54 2019 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Sun, 26 May 2019 14:39:54 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] bad clutch or? References: <006501d50f39$fa9a8200$efcf8600$@ranteer.com> <2ED0BFE96C2949DABE8CDC03F49EF0E8@FrankPC> Message-ID: <004601d513fa$cb279ba0$6176d2e0$@ranteer.com> The saga continues?. Replaced the clutch hose and the slave. Still not shifting. When you push in the clutch, the lever arm on the trans moves a decent amount. I didn?t measure it, but its probably ?? to ??, something like that. So I?ve got action there. Sounds like time to pull the engine/tran? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From palte at gmx.net Mon May 27 01:17:26 2019 From: palte at gmx.net (Bert Palte) Date: Mon, 27 May 2019 09:17:26 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] bad clutch or? In-Reply-To: <004601d513fa$cb279ba0$6176d2e0$@ranteer.com> References: <006501d50f39$fa9a8200$efcf8600$@ranteer.com> <2ED0BFE96C2949DABE8CDC03F49EF0E8@FrankPC> <004601d513fa$cb279ba0$6176d2e0$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <0c947dc3-8efe-5128-40c0-657e829bd442@gmx.net> Hey Dave, Before you pull the engine and tranny,? you may want to check the pushrod between slave cylinder and clutch fork (Part No. 13H21 according to the Moss online catalog - for reference only). On my 1970 B, the clutch operation was very erratic. I found that the eyelet had worn out considerably. Welding up and drilling solved the problem. (At the time, that was easier and faster than ordering a new part...) Don't underestimate the importance of this little part! Bert Op 26-5-2019 om 21:39 schreef dave via Mgs: > > The saga continues?. > > Replaced the clutch hose and the slave.? Still not shifting. > > When you push in the clutch, the lever arm on the trans moves a decent > amount.? I didn?t measure it, but its probably ?? to ??, something > like that. > > So I?ve got action there.? Sounds like time to pull the engine/tran? > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/palte at gmx.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Mon May 27 19:31:20 2019 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Mon, 27 May 2019 20:31:20 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] 1978 mgb Message-ID: <000501d514f5$0e1ca900$2a55fb00$@ranteer.com> I start the car, and it starts right up and runs great. Run it for a few minutes (need to keep the revs up a bit), and as soon as I let off the gas, it drops back to idle, then dies. Cannot restart. Try starter fluid but nothing catches, even for a second. Carlton and I checked - am getting gas into the carb. Cannot restart it again until it cools. Then I can repeat. New plugs, cap, and wires. Have not replaced rotor, points, or condenser. ??? History - I acquired this car as a non runner. Compression is decent all 4 cylinders; don't remember exactly what -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lrc at red4est.com Mon May 27 20:39:19 2019 From: lrc at red4est.com (lrc at red4est.com) Date: Mon, 27 May 2019 19:39:19 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] 1978 mgb In-Reply-To: <000501d514f5$0e1ca900$2a55fb00$@ranteer.com> References: <000501d514f5$0e1ca900$2a55fb00$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: I'll take a wild guess at the coil. Borrow a coil from another car wire it on and see how it goes On May 27, 2019 6:31:20 PM PDT, dave via Mgs wrote: >I start the car, and it starts right up and runs great. > > > >Run it for a few minutes (need to keep the revs up a bit), and as soon >as I >let off the gas, it drops back to idle, then dies. > > > >Cannot restart. Try starter fluid but nothing catches, even for a >second. >Carlton and I checked - am getting gas into the carb. > > > >Cannot restart it again until it cools. Then I can repeat. > > > >New plugs, cap, and wires. Have not replaced rotor, points, or >condenser. > > > >??? > > > >History - I acquired this car as a non runner. Compression is decent >all 4 >cylinders; don't remember exactly what -- Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From palte at gmx.net Tue May 28 00:09:16 2019 From: palte at gmx.net (Bert Palte) Date: Tue, 28 May 2019 08:09:16 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] 1978 mgb In-Reply-To: References: <000501d514f5$0e1ca900$2a55fb00$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Tue May 28 01:34:21 2019 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Tue, 28 May 2019 08:34:21 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] 1978 mgb References: <000501d514f5$0e1ca900$2a55fb00$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: Check for spark. ----- Original Message ----- I start the car, and it starts right up and runs great. Run it for a few minutes (need to keep the revs up a bit), and as soon as I let off the gas, it drops back to idle, then dies. Cannot restart. Try starter fluid but nothing catches, even for a second. Carlton and I checked - am getting gas into the carb. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Tue May 28 01:43:48 2019 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Tue, 28 May 2019 08:43:48 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] bad clutch or? References: <006501d50f39$fa9a8200$efcf8600$@ranteer.com> <2ED0BFE96C2949DABE8CDC03F49EF0E8@FrankPC> <004601d513fa$cb279ba0$6176d2e0$@ranteer.com> <0c947dc3-8efe-5128-40c0-657e829bd442@gmx.net> Message-ID: <703185A61FA347D4AB6E33EE4EF63C77@paul> Unlike physical wear at the pedal linkage, similar wear at the slave end has no effect on clutch operation, the hydraulic system is designed to take account of all wear at the clutch end. Remember the graphite release bearing is going to wear down by a 1/4" or so over the life of the clutch, and given the unequal lengths of the release arm that is going to be getting on for an inch at the slave cylinder. The piston simply moves out to take it up, and more fluid back-fills from the reservoir. If it's dragging exactly the same as before, and you have about 1/2" of travel of the slave push-rod, then something is binding at the clutch. Either the friction plate is very stiff on its splines, or the end of the first-motion shaft is dragging badly in the pilot bearing. Could also be the release bearing breaking up and not pushing evenly on the cover plate. Time to pull the engine - much easier than pulling both - on an MGB at least. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Replaced the clutch hose and the slave. Still not shifting. When you push in the clutch, the lever arm on the trans moves a decent amount. I didn?t measure it, but its probably ?? to ??, something like that. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com Tue May 28 11:32:42 2019 From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler) Date: Tue, 28 May 2019 17:32:42 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Mgs] Help identifying Jack References: <1287700785.609584.1559064763380.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1287700785.609584.1559064763380@mail.yahoo.com> I'm cleaning out my garage and trying to get rid of things that I have had taking up space for many years.? Attached are pictures of a scissors jack.? Can anyone help me identify what car this jack is for?? I don't even know where I got it.? I have owned all of the British marques over the years and I'm pretty sure it goes to one of them, but which one?? I'm most familiar with Triumphs, and I know it is not for a Triumph.? Could be MG, Jag, Healy, or other. Thanks for any help you can give me Jack -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Misc. Scissors Jack.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 2918071 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Misc. Scissors Jack - Side.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 3021625 bytes Desc: not available URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Tue May 28 18:36:36 2019 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Tue, 28 May 2019 17:36:36 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Help identifying Jack In-Reply-To: <1287700785.609584.1559064763380@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1287700785.609584.1559064763380.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1287700785.609584.1559064763380@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I can rule out MGB. That?s about it. -- Max Heim '66 MGB > On May 28, 2019, at 10:32 AM, Jack Wheeler via Mgs wrote: > > I'm cleaning out my garage and trying to get rid of things that I have had taking up space for many years. Attached are pictures of a scissors jack. Can anyone help me identify what car this jack is for? I don't even know where I got it. I have owned all of the British marques over the years and I'm pretty sure it goes to one of them, but which one? I'm most familiar with Triumphs, and I know it is not for a Triumph. Could be MG, Jag, Healy, or other. > > Thanks for any help you can give me > > Jack > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mgbobh at gmail.com Tue May 28 05:27:24 2019 From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad) Date: Tue, 28 May 2019 07:27:24 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] bad clutch or? In-Reply-To: <703185A61FA347D4AB6E33EE4EF63C77@paul> References: <006501d50f39$fa9a8200$efcf8600$@ranteer.com> <2ED0BFE96C2949DABE8CDC03F49EF0E8@FrankPC> <004601d513fa$cb279ba0$6176d2e0$@ranteer.com> <0c947dc3-8efe-5128-40c0-657e829bd442@gmx.net> <703185A61FA347D4AB6E33EE4EF63C77@paul> Message-ID: I have recently removed the engine to answer the question of friction plate binding. It was. That same rusty powder that appears around dry door hinges in a hose was present on the area around the plate?s splines. Pushing and pulling by hand, the plate would not slide smoothly on its splines. It had been installed ten years and 30M miles ago. I checked the bushing on throw-out lever, the pivot bolt also, which were fine. The throw-out bearing measured a couple of thousands _thicker_ than a new one, so I used the old again, but bought a new AP friction plate even though the old appeared, aside from the rust powder, almost unworn. Difficult shifting is now history. Bob > On May 28, 2019, at 3:43 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs wrote: > > Unlike physical wear at the pedal linkage, similar wear at the slave end has no effect on clutch operation, the hydraulic system is designed to take account of all wear at the clutch end. Remember the graphite release bearing is going to wear down by a 1/4" or so over the life of the clutch, and given the unequal lengths of the release arm that is going to be getting on for an inch at the slave cylinder. The piston simply moves out to take it up, and more fluid back-fills from the reservoir. > > If it's dragging exactly the same as before, and you have about 1/2" of travel of the slave push-rod, then something is binding at the clutch. Either the friction plate is very stiff on its splines, or the end of the first-motion shaft is dragging badly in the pilot bearing. Could also be the release bearing breaking up and not pushing evenly on the cover plate. Time to pull the engine - much easier than pulling both - on an MGB at least. > > PaulH. > ----- Original Message ----- >> Replaced the clutch hose and the slave. Still not shifting. >> When you push in the clutch, the lever arm on the trans moves a decent amount. I didn?t measure it, but its probably ?? to ??, something like that. > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Charley38 at twc.com Tue May 28 15:21:53 2019 From: Charley38 at twc.com (Charley Robinson) Date: Tue, 28 May 2019 16:21:53 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] bad clutch or? In-Reply-To: <703185A61FA347D4AB6E33EE4EF63C77@paul> References: <006501d50f39$fa9a8200$efcf8600$@ranteer.com> <2ED0BFE96C2949DABE8CDC03F49EF0E8@FrankPC> <004601d513fa$cb279ba0$6176d2e0$@ranteer.com> <0c947dc3-8efe-5128-40c0-657e829bd442@gmx.net> <703185A61FA347D4AB6E33EE4EF63C77@paul> Message-ID: <9015c76f-3b51-92d1-6d7e-a6b06ca8236e@twc.com> Read a post by a guy on MGE who had a badly elongated pivot hole in the throwout arm, causing erratic clutch operation.? Claimed he welded up and redrilled the hole. In any event I reckon the engine would still have to come out. CR On 5/28/2019 2:43 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs wrote: > ? > Unlike physical wear at the pedal linkage, similar wear at the > slave?end has no effect on clutch operation, the hydraulic system is > designed to take account of all wear at the clutch end.? Remember the > graphite release bearing is going to wear down by a 1/4" or so over > the life of the clutch, and given the unequal lengths of the release > arm that is going to be getting on for an inch at the slave cylinder.? > The piston simply moves out to take it up, and more fluid back-fills > from the reservoir. > If it's dragging exactly the same as before, and you have about 1/2" > of travel of the slave push-rod, then something is binding?at the > clutch.? Either the friction plate is very stiff on its splines, or > the end of the first-motion shaft is dragging badly in the pilot > bearing.? Could also be the release bearing breaking up and not > pushing evenly on the cover plate.??Time to pull the engine - much > easier than pulling both - on an MGB at least. > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- >> >> Replaced the clutch hose and the slave.? Still not shifting. >> >> When you push in the clutch, the lever arm on the trans moves a >> decent amount.? I didn?t measure it, but its probably ?? to ??, >> something like that. >> > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From palte at gmx.net Wed May 29 02:57:29 2019 From: palte at gmx.net (Bert Palte) Date: Wed, 29 May 2019 10:57:29 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Help identifying Jack In-Reply-To: <1287700785.609584.1559064763380@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1287700785.609584.1559064763380.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1287700785.609584.1559064763380@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: If you google M12206C? (that is the number, found on the jack) you will find that _/somebody claims that /_ this belongs to an early Jaguar E-type. Op 28-5-2019 om 19:32 schreef Jack Wheeler via Mgs: > I'm cleaning out my garage and trying to get rid of things that I have > had taking up space for many years. Attached are pictures of a > scissors jack.? Can anyone help me identify what car this jack is > for?? I don't even know where I got it.? I have owned all of the > British marques over the years and I'm pretty sure it goes to one of > them, but which one?? I'm most familiar with Triumphs, and I know it > is not for a Triumph.? Could be MG, Jag, Healy, or other. > > Thanks for any help you can give me > > Jack > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/palte at gmx.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dan.dibiase at gmail.com Wed May 29 05:34:12 2019 From: dan.dibiase at gmail.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Wed, 29 May 2019 07:34:12 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] bad clutch or? In-Reply-To: References: <006501d50f39$fa9a8200$efcf8600$@ranteer.com> <2ED0BFE96C2949DABE8CDC03F49EF0E8@FrankPC> <004601d513fa$cb279ba0$6176d2e0$@ranteer.com> <0c947dc3-8efe-5128-40c0-657e829bd442@gmx.net> <703185A61FA347D4AB6E33EE4EF63C77@paul> Message-ID: 30 million miles is decent wear for an MG clutch, I'd say..... ;-) Dan D Central NJ USA http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ On Tue, May 28, 2019 at 10:18 PM Robert's New iPad via Mgs < mgs at autox.team.net> wrote: > I have recently removed the engine to answer the question of friction > plate binding. It was. > That same rusty powder that appears around dry door hinges in a hose was > present on the area around the plate?s splines. Pushing and pulling by > hand, the plate would not slide smoothly on its splines. It had been > installed ten years and 30M miles ago. > I checked the bushing on throw-out lever, the pivot bolt also, which > were fine. The throw-out bearing measured a couple of thousands _thicker_ > than a new one, so I used the old again, but bought a new AP friction plate > even though the old appeared, aside from the rust powder, almost unworn. > Difficult shifting is now history. > Bob > > > > On May 28, 2019, at 3:43 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs > wrote: > > Unlike physical wear at the pedal linkage, similar wear at the slave end > has no effect on clutch operation, the hydraulic system is designed to take > account of all wear at the clutch end. Remember the graphite release > bearing is going to wear down by a 1/4" or so over the life of the clutch, > and given the unequal lengths of the release arm that is going to be > getting on for an inch at the slave cylinder. The piston simply moves out > to take it up, and more fluid back-fills from the reservoir. > > If it's dragging exactly the same as before, and you have about 1/2" of > travel of the slave push-rod, then something is binding at the clutch. > Either the friction plate is very stiff on its splines, or the end of the > first-motion shaft is dragging badly in the pilot bearing. Could also be > the release bearing breaking up and not pushing evenly on the cover > plate. Time to pull the engine - much easier than pulling both - on an MGB > at least. > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > Replaced the clutch hose and the slave. Still not shifting. > > When you push in the clutch, the lever arm on the trans moves a decent > amount. I didn?t measure it, but its probably ?? to ??, something like > that. > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From david_breneman at yahoo.com Wed May 29 14:59:43 2019 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Wed, 29 May 2019 20:59:43 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Mgs] bad clutch or? In-Reply-To: References: <006501d50f39$fa9a8200$efcf8600$@ranteer.com> <2ED0BFE96C2949DABE8CDC03F49EF0E8@FrankPC> <004601d513fa$cb279ba0$6176d2e0$@ranteer.com> <0c947dc3-8efe-5128-40c0-657e829bd442@gmx.net> <703185A61FA347D4AB6E33EE4EF63C77@paul> Message-ID: <330896747.6784343.1559163583200@mail.yahoo.com> On Wednesday, May 29, 2019, 4:34:56 AM PDT, Dan DiBiase via Mgs wrote: > On Tue, May 28, 2019 at 10:18 PM Robert's New iPad via Mgs wrote: > >? It had been installed ten years and 30M miles ago. > 30 million miles is decent wear for an MG clutch, I'd say..... ;-) Years ago, when I worked for Tacoma Screw Products, they were still using a card catalog to keep track of their warehouse stock.? You'd frequently see the quantity of a keg of, say, 1/4" hex nuts written as "10M" meaning 10 thousand.? When I asked "Why isn't that a K?" it was explained to me that since "M" was the Roman numeral for 1000, the notation made total sense.? I think it's a practice specific to the hardware industry, dating from before WWII. From mgbobh at gmail.com Wed May 29 15:07:45 2019 From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad) Date: Wed, 29 May 2019 17:07:45 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] bad clutch or? In-Reply-To: <330896747.6784343.1559163583200@mail.yahoo.com> References: <006501d50f39$fa9a8200$efcf8600$@ranteer.com> <2ED0BFE96C2949DABE8CDC03F49EF0E8@FrankPC> <004601d513fa$cb279ba0$6176d2e0$@ranteer.com> <0c947dc3-8efe-5128-40c0-657e829bd442@gmx.net> <703185A61FA347D4AB6E33EE4EF63C77@paul> <330896747.6784343.1559163583200@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Yes, you have it, David. M = Thousand, m = million. MGs through the end of flat-glass tachometers in the TDs used M on the tachometers. When the curved-glass tachs arrived, they were marked 2000,3000,etc. Those of us who went to school in the slide-rule days learned Roman numerals-none of this metric stuff then. Bob > On May 29, 2019, at 4:59 PM, David Breneman via Mgs wrote: > > >> On Wednesday, May 29, 2019, 4:34:56 AM PDT, Dan DiBiase via Mgs < wrote: >> On Tue, May 28, 2019 at 10:18 PM Robert's New iPad via Mgs wrote: > >>> It had been installed ten years and 30M miles ago. >> 30 million miles is decent wear for an MG clutch, I'd say..... ;-) > > Years ago, when I worked for Tacoma Screw Products, they were still using a card > catalog to keep track of their warehouse stock. You'd frequently see the quantity of > a keg of, say, 1/4" hex nuts written as "10M" meaning 10 thousand. When I asked > "Why isn't that a K?" it was explained to me that since "M" was the Roman numeral > for 1000, the notation made total sense. I think it's a practice specific to the hardware > industry, dating from before WWII. > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com Thu May 30 09:21:16 2019 From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler) Date: Thu, 30 May 2019 15:21:16 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Mgs] MGB for sale In-Reply-To: <1029968878.731544.1559229489727@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1518436752.3900616.1556893785345.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1518436752.3900616.1556893785345@mail.yahoo.com> <1768634066.1336289.1559228770335@mail.yahoo.com> <1029968878.731544.1559229489727@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <722541574.1346130.1559229677042@mail.yahoo.com> Below is some information about a 1975 MGB that is for sale.? I've known this car for many years.? It was owned by an executive at Corning Inc. who lived next door to my parents in Corning, NY, and bought this car when it was nearly new.? He died way to young.? His daughter took over the car and has had a lot of work done on it, since she has had it.? She is now wanting to sell it, and has asked me to forward the information to people who might be interested, or know someone who might be interested, in buying it.? If you have questions, or want more information, please contact her directly at koconnor673 at hotmail.com.? Her name is Kimberly Oconnor.? I can confirm that the car is very straight and solid, and has been well taken care of, although it has been a number of years since I have seen it.? She is asking $10K, but the price is negotiable.? Thanks. Jack Wheeler Kimberly says: Would love if you knew anyone looking. ?It's been well taken care of and want to see it go to a good home.? 1975 MG B Convertible?? - One Family has owned for last 44 years (Husband & Wife and now their Daughter) - 53, 799 miles - British Racing Green (was originally Harvest Gold ? repainted in ?96) - Original Top & Interior - 1996 engine rebuilt - 1996 body work completed (new front fenders & back rocker panels replaced) - 2016 Engine refresh - 2016 Evans waterless coolant put in - 2016 Stromberg Carb rebuild - 2016 New Battery - 2016 New Brakes - 2016 New Stereo - Has a Nylon cover - Has MG embossed floor mats - Original spare tire - Needs a good home -?????????????????????? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: paulsmgb - left side.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 39648 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: paulsmgb - LF.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 39488 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: paulsmgb - RF.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 36629 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: paulsmgb - RR.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 33243 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: paulsmgb - Badge.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 35754 bytes Desc: not available URL: From steve at shoyer.com Fri May 31 00:31:47 2019 From: steve at shoyer.com (Steve Shoyer) Date: Fri, 31 May 2019 02:31:47 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Something (or things) leaks - how to locate the source? Message-ID: <3fdba8de-051c-94cd-f92f-14e491d5d5f9@shoyer.com> After working on my 1980 MGB last summer I had the car running but it was leaking.? I parked it on the lift and I'm just getting back to it now.? It seems to be leaking both oil and coolant.? I'm hoping that the leaks are coming from different places, but I'm not quite sure where to look.? When the car was parked, I noticed some coolant seeping out (and dripping onto the car parked under the lift) but I couldn't find the source.? Today, while the car was running, I saw oil dripping from the engine back plate.? It looks like some oil was escaping at the fitting where the metal oil pipe that leads to the filter connects to the block - I tried to tighten it as much as possible, but it was hard to access.? Oil is also dripping from the rim of the oil pan near the rear plate. Most of the oil pan rim has oil on it, with green coolant around the rim in spots as well.? I don't think that the oil and coolant are mixed together - the oil dripping on the ground just looks like oil, and I didn't see any foaming or anything other than oil under the cap in the valve cover.? Still, it has me worried. I watched some John Twist videos on finding leaks and he said that the sump gaskets don't leak, so maybe the oil is coming from one (or more) place and the coolant is coming from another and that's just a convenient place for them to collect I noticed some coolant around the lower radiator hose, so I tightened the clamp to see if that would help.? Judging from the stain on the car under the MG, the coolant seems to be dripping from the front cross-member, but I couldn't see where it was coming from.? The coolant leaked while the car was just sitting, not a huge amount but it was noticeable when it dripped onto the other car's hood.? There were some oil drips hanging onto many of the engine bay components, like the bolts on the oil filter head, the starter, etc. - there was a drop on most of the lowest points of the components. Last year I pulled the engine to replace the cam and clutch, along with the other standard things to replace when doing those jobs.? Because it was my first time doing engine work, it wouldn't surprise me if I screwed some of it up. I picked up some UV dye to put into the oil, but is there anything else I can do to figure out what's leaking?? Thanks. --Steve --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. https://www.avg.com From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Fri May 31 01:56:56 2019 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Fri, 31 May 2019 08:56:56 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Something (or things) leaks - how to locate the source? References: <3fdba8de-051c-94cd-f92f-14e491d5d5f9@shoyer.com> Message-ID: <110C01819E9A4AB4B5E20AB00941FF62@paul> Fluids can travel other than straight down even on a stopped engine, more so with a running engine, and especially coolant which can be flung everywhere if you have a water pump seal leak. Start from the top and work down, cleaning and solving as you go, puffing talc can be pretty good at showing a source. If you see a leak unless the fastening is actually loose further tightening rarely stops it. In fact it can make things worse as it can distort the faces and make the gap bigger. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > After working on my 1980 MGB last summer I had the car running but it was > leaking. I parked it on the lift and I'm just getting back to it now. It > seems to be leaking both oil and coolant. From dan.dibiase at gmail.com Fri May 31 05:14:42 2019 From: dan.dibiase at gmail.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Fri, 31 May 2019 07:14:42 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Something (or things) leaks - how to locate the source? In-Reply-To: <3fdba8de-051c-94cd-f92f-14e491d5d5f9@shoyer.com> References: <3fdba8de-051c-94cd-f92f-14e491d5d5f9@shoyer.com> Message-ID: The coolant leak where it's gathering on the cross member seems to me to be a leak either from the lower radiator hose or the water pump. Have had both of those on my '76 and that is where the coolant tended to gather. Dan D Central NJ USA http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ On Fri, May 31, 2019 at 2:32 AM Steve Shoyer via Mgs wrote: > After working on my 1980 MGB last summer I had the car running but it > was leaking. I parked it on the lift and I'm just getting back to it > now. It seems to be leaking both oil and coolant. I'm hoping that the > leaks are coming from different places, but I'm not quite sure where to > look. When the car was parked, I noticed some coolant seeping out (and > dripping onto the car parked under the lift) but I couldn't find the > source. Today, while the car was running, I saw oil dripping from the > engine back plate. It looks like some oil was escaping at the fitting > where the metal oil pipe that leads to the filter connects to the block > - I tried to tighten it as much as possible, but it was hard to access. > Oil is also dripping from the rim of the oil pan near the rear plate. > Most of the oil pan rim has oil on it, with green coolant around the rim > in spots as well. I don't think that the oil and coolant are mixed > together - the oil dripping on the ground just looks like oil, and I > didn't see any foaming or anything other than oil under the cap in the > valve cover. Still, it has me worried. > > I watched some John Twist videos on finding leaks and he said that the > sump gaskets don't leak, so maybe the oil is coming from one (or more) > place and the coolant is coming from another and that's just a > convenient place for them to collect > > I noticed some coolant around the lower radiator hose, so I tightened > the clamp to see if that would help. Judging from the stain on the car > under the MG, the coolant seems to be dripping from the front > cross-member, but I couldn't see where it was coming from. The coolant > leaked while the car was just sitting, not a huge amount but it was > noticeable when it dripped onto the other car's hood. There were some > oil drips hanging onto many of the engine bay components, like the bolts > on the oil filter head, the starter, etc. - there was a drop on most of > the lowest points of the components. > > Last year I pulled the engine to replace the cam and clutch, along with > the other standard things to replace when doing those jobs. Because it > was my first time doing engine work, it wouldn't surprise me if I > screwed some of it up. > > I picked up some UV dye to put into the oil, but is there anything else > I can do to figure out what's leaking? Thanks. > > --Steve > > > --- > This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. > https://www.avg.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Fri May 31 11:24:08 2019 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Fri, 31 May 2019 10:24:08 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Something (or things) leaks - how to locate the source? In-Reply-To: References: <3fdba8de-051c-94cd-f92f-14e491d5d5f9@shoyer.com> Message-ID: <6C70D3B4-86F8-47C9-AA48-AD76CFD1E294@sonic.net> Not familiar with all the external plumbing on a 1980, but here are some known sources of leakage, based on a 18GB engine: OIL Rocker cover (extremely common) Side cover plates (very common) Oil filter Oil filter inverter base/oil cooler hose end fitting Oil pressure hose fitting Engine rear seal (oil draining from the hole in the bottom of the bell housing) Engine front seal Oil pan gasket COOLANT Lower radiator hose (common) Upper radiator hose Heater hoses Thermostat housing Water pump gasket Water pump shaft seal Heater valve It is very hard to trace many of these unless the surfaces are clean and dry to start with. Putting clean cardboard or paper under the car while parked may help you find a starting place for investigation. -- Max Heim '66 MGB > On May 31, 2019, at 4:14 AM, Dan DiBiase via Mgs wrote: > > The coolant leak where it's gathering on the cross member seems to me to be a leak either from the lower radiator hose or the water pump. Have had both of those on my '76 and that is where the coolant tended to gather. > > Dan D > Central NJ USA > http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ > > On Fri, May 31, 2019 at 2:32 AM Steve Shoyer via Mgs > wrote: > After working on my 1980 MGB last summer I had the car running but it > was leaking. I parked it on the lift and I'm just getting back to it > now. It seems to be leaking both oil and coolant. I'm hoping that the > leaks are coming from different places, but I'm not quite sure where to > look. When the car was parked, I noticed some coolant seeping out (and > dripping onto the car parked under the lift) but I couldn't find the > source. Today, while the car was running, I saw oil dripping from the > engine back plate. It looks like some oil was escaping at the fitting > where the metal oil pipe that leads to the filter connects to the block > - I tried to tighten it as much as possible, but it was hard to access. > Oil is also dripping from the rim of the oil pan near the rear plate. > Most of the oil pan rim has oil on it, with green coolant around the rim > in spots as well. I don't think that the oil and coolant are mixed > together - the oil dripping on the ground just looks like oil, and I > didn't see any foaming or anything other than oil under the cap in the > valve cover. Still, it has me worried. > > I watched some John Twist videos on finding leaks and he said that the > sump gaskets don't leak, so maybe the oil is coming from one (or more) > place and the coolant is coming from another and that's just a > convenient place for them to collect > > I noticed some coolant around the lower radiator hose, so I tightened > the clamp to see if that would help. Judging from the stain on the car > under the MG, the coolant seems to be dripping from the front > cross-member, but I couldn't see where it was coming from. The coolant > leaked while the car was just sitting, not a huge amount but it was > noticeable when it dripped onto the other car's hood. There were some > oil drips hanging onto many of the engine bay components, like the bolts > on the oil filter head, the starter, etc. - there was a drop on most of > the lowest points of the components. > > Last year I pulled the engine to replace the cam and clutch, along with > the other standard things to replace when doing those jobs. Because it > was my first time doing engine work, it wouldn't surprise me if I > screwed some of it up. > > I picked up some UV dye to put into the oil, but is there anything else > I can do to figure out what's leaking? Thanks. > > --Steve > > > --- > This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. > https://www.avg.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: