From frankk12 at verizon.net Fri Jul 5 09:50:05 2019 From: frankk12 at verizon.net (FrankK) Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2019 11:50:05 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Additive Message-ID: There was a great deal of discussion here regarding the use of different oil to compensate for the lack of ZDDP in oil these days. I didn?t see anyone include a discussion of the practice of adding ZDDP to oil that is lacking in it. There are several sources where it is available and I have availed myself of it and added it to my Castrol 20-50 when I change the oil in my 80 MGBLE. Is there a problem in doing this in lieu of using Valvoline Racing Oil say? Frank Krajewski -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Fri Jul 5 10:48:19 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2019 09:48:19 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Additive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: How much do you drive your MG Frank. I don't drive any of my old cars enough to worry about it. I use Castrol GTX 20W50 in my cars. On Fri, Jul 5, 2019, 8:50 AM FrankK via Mgs wrote: > There was a great deal of discussion here regarding the use of different > oil to compensate for the lack of ZDDP in oil these days. I didn?t see > anyone include a discussion of the practice of adding ZDDP to oil that is > lacking in it. There are several sources where it is available and I have > availed myself of it and added it to my Castrol 20-50 when I change the > oil in my 80 MGBLE. > Is there a problem in doing this in lieu of using Valvoline Racing Oil > say? > Frank Krajewski > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richardolindsay at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Charley38 at twc.com Fri Jul 5 16:26:18 2019 From: Charley38 at twc.com (Charley Robinson) Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2019 17:26:18 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Additive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <928d32b4-f121-970b-95e5-5864fc296485@twc.com> Why raise your cost by adding an additive when there are oils that already have the zinc?? I use VR1; all the local auto parts stores have it. CR On 7/5/2019 10:50 AM, FrankK via Mgs wrote: > There was a great deal of? discussion here regarding the use of > different oil to compensate for the lack of ZDDP in oil these days.? I > didn?t see anyone include a discussion of the practice of adding ZDDP > to oil that is lacking in it. There are several sources where it is > available and I have availed myself of it and added it to my? Castrol > 20-50 when I change the oil in my 80 MGBLE. > Is there a problem in doing this in lieu of using Valvoline Racing Oil > say? > Frank Krajewski > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Fri Jul 5 16:41:02 2019 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2019 15:41:02 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Additive In-Reply-To: <928d32b4-f121-970b-95e5-5864fc296485@twc.com> References: <928d32b4-f121-970b-95e5-5864fc296485@twc.com> Message-ID: I agree with Charley? I did that for a while but it was inconvenient, and once I found a proper oil it was pointless. Consider, if you have to top off your oil by adding a quart between changes (as is common), are you also adding the exact proportional amount of your additive? It?s just impractical to deal with on a regular basis. There is nothing magical about Castrol 20W50. -- Max Heim '66 MGB > On Jul 5, 2019, at 3:26 PM, Charley Robinson via Mgs wrote: > > Why raise your cost by adding an additive when there are oils that already have the zinc? I use VR1; all the local auto parts stores have it. > > CR > > On 7/5/2019 10:50 AM, FrankK via Mgs wrote: >> There was a great deal of discussion here regarding the use of different oil to compensate for the lack of ZDDP in oil these days. I didn?t see anyone include a discussion of the practice of adding ZDDP to oil that is lacking in it. There are several sources where it is available and I have availed myself of it and added it to my Castrol 20-50 when I change the oil in my 80 MGBLE. >> Is there a problem in doing this in lieu of using Valvoline Racing Oil say? >> Frank Krajewski -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Fri Jul 5 19:02:48 2019 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2019 18:02:48 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Additive In-Reply-To: References: <928d32b4-f121-970b-95e5-5864fc296485@twc.com> Message-ID: Right, but there are other brands. I use Mobil1 15W50. Others use Royal Purple, Joe Gibbs, Kendall or AMSoil brands. -- Max Heim mvheim at sonic.net > On Jul 5, 2019, at 5:49 PM, FrankK wrote: > > Max: I did get some Valvoline Racing Oil (not for street use!) but after some of the negative comments on here regarding its use I am questioning its use now. > > From: Max Heim via Mgs <> > Sent: Friday, July 5, 2019 6:41 PM > To: MG List <> > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil Additive > > I agree with Charley? I did that for a while but it was inconvenient, and once I found a proper oil it was pointless. > > Consider, if you have to top off your oil by adding a quart between changes (as is common), are you also adding the exact proportional amount of your additive? It?s just impractical to deal with on a regular basis. There is nothing magical about Castrol 20W50. > > -- > Max Heim > '66 MGB > >> On Jul 5, 2019, at 3:26 PM, Charley Robinson via Mgs > wrote: >> >> Why raise your cost by adding an additive when there are oils that already have the zinc? I use VR1; all the local auto parts stores have it. >> >> CR >> >> On 7/5/2019 10:50 AM, FrankK via Mgs wrote: >>> There was a great deal of discussion here regarding the use of different oil to compensate for the lack of ZDDP in oil these days. I didn?t see anyone include a discussion of the practice of adding ZDDP to oil that is lacking in it. There are several sources where it is available and I have availed myself of it and added it to my Castrol 20-50 when I change the oil in my 80 MGBLE. >>> Is there a problem in doing this in lieu of using Valvoline Racing Oil say? >>> Frank Krajewski > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/frankk12 at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Fri Jul 5 20:02:15 2019 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2019 19:02:15 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Additive In-Reply-To: References: <928d32b4-f121-970b-95e5-5864fc296485@twc.com> Message-ID: Only certain weights. You have to read the labels, or usually the spec sheets. -- Max Heim mvheim at sonic.net > On Jul 5, 2019, at 6:15 PM, FrankK wrote: > > I assume all those brands include the correct ZDDP proportions./ > > From: Max Heim <> > Sent: Friday, July 5, 2019 9:02 PM > To: FrankK <> ; MG List <> > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil Additive > > Right, but there are other brands. I use Mobil1 15W50. Others use Royal Purple, Joe Gibbs, Kendall or AMSoil brands. > > > -- > Max Heim > mvheim at sonic.net <> > > > >> On Jul 5, 2019, at 5:49 PM, FrankK > wrote: >> >> Max: I did get some Valvoline Racing Oil (not for street use!) but after some of the negative comments on here regarding its use I am questioning its use now. >> >> From: Max Heim via Mgs <> >> Sent: Friday, July 5, 2019 6:41 PM >> To: MG List <> >> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil Additive >> >> I agree with Charley? I did that for a while but it was inconvenient, and once I found a proper oil it was pointless. >> >> Consider, if you have to top off your oil by adding a quart between changes (as is common), are you also adding the exact proportional amount of your additive? It?s just impractical to deal with on a regular basis. There is nothing magical about Castrol 20W50. >> >> -- >> Max Heim >> '66 MGB >> >>> On Jul 5, 2019, at 3:26 PM, Charley Robinson via Mgs > wrote: >>> >>> Why raise your cost by adding an additive when there are oils that already have the zinc? I use VR1; all the local auto parts stores have it. >>> >>> CR >>> >>> On 7/5/2019 10:50 AM, FrankK via Mgs wrote: >>>> There was a great deal of discussion here regarding the use of different oil to compensate for the lack of ZDDP in oil these days. I didn?t see anyone include a discussion of the practice of adding ZDDP to oil that is lacking in it. There are several sources where it is available and I have availed myself of it and added it to my Castrol 20-50 when I change the oil in my 80 MGBLE. >>>> Is there a problem in doing this in lieu of using Valvoline Racing Oil say? >>>> Frank Krajewski >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net <> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/frankk12 at verizon.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Charley38 at twc.com Fri Jul 5 23:30:27 2019 From: Charley38 at twc.com (Charley Robinson) Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2019 00:30:27 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Additive In-Reply-To: References: <928d32b4-f121-970b-95e5-5864fc296485@twc.com> Message-ID: <41334e85-7322-dc7b-5e99-8bf65f5fd7fc@twc.com> I've been reading up on it to refresh my memory.? A lot of folks just take other peoples' word for it. CR On 7/5/2019 9:02 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: > Only certain weights. You have to read the labels, or usually the spec > sheets. > > -- > Max Heim > mvheim at sonic.net > > > >> On Jul 5, 2019, at 6:15 PM, FrankK > > wrote: >> >> I assume all those brands include the correct ZDDP proportions./ >> *From:* Max Heim >> *Sent:* Friday, July 5, 2019 9:02 PM >> *To:* FrankK ; MG List >> *Subject:* Re: [Mgs] Oil Additive >> Right, but there are other brands. I use Mobil1 15W50. Others use >> Royal Purple, Joe Gibbs, Kendall or AMSoil brands. >> -- >> Max Heim >> mvheim at sonic.net >>> On Jul 5, 2019, at 5:49 PM, FrankK wrote: >>> Max: I??? did get some Valvoline Racing Oil (not for street use!) >>> but after some of the negative comments on here regarding its use I >>> am questioning its use now. >>> *From:* Max Heim via Mgs >>> *Sent:* Friday, July 5, 2019 6:41 PM >>> *To:* MG List >>> *Subject:* Re: [Mgs] Oil Additive >>> I agree with Charley? I did that for a while but it was >>> inconvenient, and once I found a proper oil it was pointless. >>> Consider, if you have to top off your oil by adding a quart between >>> changes (as is common), are you also adding the exact proportional >>> amount of your additive? It?s just impractical to deal with on a >>> regular basis. There is nothing magical about Castrol 20W50. >>> -- >>> Max Heim >>> '66 MGB >>>> On Jul 5, 2019, at 3:26 PM, Charley Robinson via Mgs >>>> wrote: >>>> Why raise your cost by adding an additive when there are oils that >>>> already have the zinc?? I use VR1; all the local auto parts stores >>>> have it. >>>> >>>> CR >>>> >>>> On 7/5/2019 10:50 AM, FrankK via Mgs wrote: >>>>> There was a great deal of? discussion here regarding the use of >>>>> different oil to compensate for the lack of ZDDP in oil these >>>>> days.? I didn?t see anyone include a discussion of the practice of >>>>> adding ZDDP to oil that is lacking in it.? There are several >>>>> sources where it is available and I have availed myself of it and >>>>> added it to my Castrol 20-50 when I change the oil in my 80 MGBLE. >>>>> Is there a problem in doing this in lieu of using Valvoline Racing >>>>> Oil say? >>>>> Frank Krajewski >>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/frankk12 at verizon.net > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cjattias at gmail.com Sat Jul 6 09:28:50 2019 From: cjattias at gmail.com (Chris Attias) Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2019 08:28:50 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Additive In-Reply-To: <41334e85-7322-dc7b-5e99-8bf65f5fd7fc@twc.com> References: <928d32b4-f121-970b-95e5-5864fc296485@twc.com> <41334e85-7322-dc7b-5e99-8bf65f5fd7fc@twc.com> Message-ID: Oil technology is changing quickly, with the change in emissions and fuel economy regulations and the redesign of newer engines. Additive packages are now designed for engines that run hotter, have tighter tolerances, and must be cleaner to preserve catalytic converters and oxygen sensors. It's easy to think in terms of individual brands that have "always been good", but the thing that most affects the choice of oil is the API Service Classification. I found a good summary of the rapid changes in oil standards here: http://www.pqiamerica.com/apiserviceclass.htm As classifications change, old oil formulations become obsolete, the appropriate oil for flat tappet engines has become pretty much the product of specialty oil companies like Royal Purple, Driven/Joe Gibbs, Red Line, Lucas, and Collectors Choice (Moss). Chris On Fri, Jul 5, 2019 at 10:32 PM Charley Robinson via Mgs wrote: > I've been reading up on it to refresh my memory. A lot of folks just take > other peoples' word for it. > > CR > > On 7/5/2019 9:02 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: > > Only certain weights. You have to read the labels, or usually the spec > sheets. > > -- > Max Heim > mvheim at sonic.net > > > > On Jul 5, 2019, at 6:15 PM, FrankK wrote: > > I assume all those brands include the correct ZDDP proportions./ > > *From:* Max Heim > *Sent:* Friday, July 5, 2019 9:02 PM > *To:* FrankK ; MG List > *Subject:* Re: [Mgs] Oil Additive > > Right, but there are other brands. I use Mobil1 15W50. Others use Royal > Purple, Joe Gibbs, Kendall or AMSoil brands. > > > -- > Max Heim > mvheim at sonic.net > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > man/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Sat Jul 6 09:47:57 2019 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2019 08:47:57 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Additive In-Reply-To: References: <928d32b4-f121-970b-95e5-5864fc296485@twc.com> <41334e85-7322-dc7b-5e99-8bf65f5fd7fc@twc.com> Message-ID: That article doesn't include the detail that the allowed formulation of oils depends on the weight of the oil. So a 20W/50 oil can contain a lot more zinc and phosphorous than a 5W/30. Simon On Sat, Jul 6, 2019 at 8:29 AM Chris Attias via Mgs wrote: > > Oil technology is changing quickly, with the change in emissions and fuel economy regulations and the redesign of newer engines. Additive packages are now designed for engines that run hotter, have tighter tolerances, and must be cleaner to preserve catalytic converters and oxygen sensors. It's easy to think in terms of individual brands that have "always been good", but the thing that most affects the choice of oil is the API Service Classification. > I found a good summary of the rapid changes in oil standards here: > http://www.pqiamerica.com/apiserviceclass.htm > As classifications change, old oil formulations become obsolete, the appropriate oil for flat tappet engines has become pretty much the product of specialty oil companies like Royal Purple, Driven/Joe Gibbs, Red Line, Lucas, and Collectors Choice (Moss). > > Chris > > On Fri, Jul 5, 2019 at 10:32 PM Charley Robinson via Mgs wrote: >> >> I've been reading up on it to refresh my memory. A lot of folks just take other peoples' word for it. >> >> CR >> >> On 7/5/2019 9:02 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: >> >> Only certain weights. You have to read the labels, or usually the spec sheets. >> >> -- >> Max Heim >> mvheim at sonic.net >> >> >> >> On Jul 5, 2019, at 6:15 PM, FrankK wrote: >> >> I assume all those brands include the correct ZDDP proportions./ >> >> From: Max Heim >> Sent: Friday, July 5, 2019 9:02 PM >> To: FrankK ; MG List >> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil Additive >> >> Right, but there are other brands. I use Mobil1 15W50. Others use Royal Purple, Joe Gibbs, Kendall or AMSoil brands. >> >> >> -- >> Max Heim >> mvheim at sonic.net >> >> >> >> >> ________________________________ >> >> >> >> man/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/simon.d.matthews at gmail.com From rshellen at comcast.net Sat Jul 6 16:52:22 2019 From: rshellen at comcast.net (EARL Shellenberger) Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2019 18:52:22 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Mgs] Oil Addatives Message-ID: <1756267966.845150.1562453542237@connect.xfinity.com> One oil missing on the list is Brad Penn, their 20/50 racing oil has the extra ZZDP_ and if you have a local dealer you can probably get it alot cheaper than the others. My local dealer will knock about $10 off per case when I buy six cases. I go in with someone else or stock up for the rest of my vehicles . He also stock plane 30wt for use in small engines. Ron Shellenberger 2 many cars -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Charley38 at twc.com Sat Jul 6 19:40:34 2019 From: Charley38 at twc.com (Charley Robinson) Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2019 20:40:34 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Additive In-Reply-To: References: <928d32b4-f121-970b-95e5-5864fc296485@twc.com> <41334e85-7322-dc7b-5e99-8bf65f5fd7fc@twc.com> Message-ID: <563b7edc-c398-0544-6d98-335ae678d40d@twc.com> Sorry, I don't agree unless you see Valvoline as a specialty motor oil supplier. CR On 7/6/2019 10:28 AM, Chris Attias wrote: > > As classifications change, old oil formulations become obsolete, the > appropriate oil for flat tappet engines has become pretty much the > product of specialty oil companies like Royal Purple, Driven/Joe > Gibbs, Red Line, Lucas, and Collectors Choice (Moss). > > Chris > > On Fri, Jul 5, 2019 at 10:32 PM Charley Robinson via Mgs > > wrote: > > I've been reading up on it to refresh my memory.? A lot of folks > just take other peoples' word for it. > > CR > > On 7/5/2019 9:02 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: >> Only certain weights. You have to read the labels, or usually the >> spec sheets. >> >> -- >> Max Heim >> mvheim at sonic.net >> >> >> >>> On Jul 5, 2019, at 6:15 PM, FrankK >> > wrote: >>> >>> I assume all those brands include the correct ZDDP proportions./ >>> *From:* Max Heim >>> *Sent:* Friday, July 5, 2019 9:02 PM >>> *To:* FrankK ; MG List >>> *Subject:* Re: [Mgs] Oil Additive >>> Right, but there are other brands. I use Mobil1 15W50. Others >>> use Royal Purple, Joe Gibbs, Kendall or AMSoil brands. >>> -- >>> Max Heim >>> mvheim at sonic.net >>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> >> >> man/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cjattias at gmail.com Sat Jul 6 21:01:25 2019 From: cjattias at gmail.com (Chris Attias) Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2019 20:01:25 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Additive In-Reply-To: <563b7edc-c398-0544-6d98-335ae678d40d@twc.com> References: <928d32b4-f121-970b-95e5-5864fc296485@twc.com> <41334e85-7322-dc7b-5e99-8bf65f5fd7fc@twc.com> <563b7edc-c398-0544-6d98-335ae678d40d@twc.com> Message-ID: I don't claim exhaustive knowledge about all racing oils. Valvoline VR1 is primarily made for racing, and I'd call it a specialty oil. Not something I've seen on the shelves at local auto parts stores. The most non-specialty oil I've seen is Mobil 1 15W-50, with an API classification SN, that has 1200 ppm zinc, and isn't recommended for extended use in cars with catalytic convertors. On Sat, Jul 6, 2019 at 6:40 PM Charley Robinson wrote: > Sorry, I don't agree unless you see Valvoline as a specialty motor oil > supplier. > > CR > > On 7/6/2019 10:28 AM, Chris Attias wrote: > > > As classifications change, old oil formulations become obsolete, the > appropriate oil for flat tappet engines has become pretty much the product > of specialty oil companies like Royal Purple, Driven/Joe Gibbs, Red Line, > Lucas, and Collectors Choice (Moss). > > Chris > > On Fri, Jul 5, 2019 at 10:32 PM Charley Robinson via Mgs < > mgs at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> I've been reading up on it to refresh my memory. A lot of folks just >> take other peoples' word for it. >> >> CR >> >> On 7/5/2019 9:02 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: >> >> Only certain weights. You have to read the labels, or usually the spec >> sheets. >> >> -- >> Max Heim >> mvheim at sonic.net >> >> >> >> On Jul 5, 2019, at 6:15 PM, FrankK wrote: >> >> I assume all those brands include the correct ZDDP proportions./ >> >> *From:* Max Heim >> *Sent:* Friday, July 5, 2019 9:02 PM >> *To:* FrankK ; MG List >> *Subject:* Re: [Mgs] Oil Additive >> >> Right, but there are other brands. I use Mobil1 15W50. Others use Royal >> Purple, Joe Gibbs, Kendall or AMSoil brands. >> >> >> -- >> Max Heim >> mvheim at sonic.net >> >> >> >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> >> >> man/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com >> >> >> > > -- ___ Chris Attias 8117 Azalea Dr. Felton, CA 95018 home: 831.335.2275 cell: 831.247.0001 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Charley38 at twc.com Sun Jul 7 08:07:57 2019 From: Charley38 at twc.com (Charley Robinson) Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2019 09:07:57 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Additive In-Reply-To: References: <928d32b4-f121-970b-95e5-5864fc296485@twc.com> <41334e85-7322-dc7b-5e99-8bf65f5fd7fc@twc.com> <563b7edc-c398-0544-6d98-335ae678d40d@twc.com> Message-ID: <4b56c66e-25b4-049c-3602-4e6525428e96@twc.com> Maybe you haven't looked hard enough.? I bought two quarts of 20W50 VR1 yesterday at my local Autozone.? The other local stores carry it too.? The first bullet on the back label calls it "High Performance/Racing Oil". Here's a blurb from Valvoline's website: https://sharena21.springcm.com/Public/Document/18452/18bdee61-0a7e-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3/a61538b4-0cbd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1 I've been using? 20W50 VR1 in my '69 MGB for the last 5 years or so.? I use synthetics in my newer cars. CR On 7/6/2019 10:01 PM, Chris Attias wrote: > I don't claim exhaustive knowledge about all racing oils. Valvoline > VR1 is primarily made for racing, and I'd call it a specialty oil. Not > something I've seen on the shelves at local auto parts stores. > > > On Sat, Jul 6, 2019 at 6:40 PM Charley Robinson > wrote: > > Sorry, I don't agree unless you see Valvoline as a specialty motor > oil supplier. > > CR > > On 7/6/2019 10:28 AM, Chris Attias wrote: >> >> As classifications change, old oil formulations become obsolete, >> the appropriate oil for flat tappet engines has become pretty >> much the product of specialty oil companies like Royal Purple, >> Driven/Joe Gibbs, Red Line, Lucas, and Collectors Choice (Moss). >> >> Chris >> >> On Fri, Jul 5, 2019 at 10:32 PM Charley Robinson via Mgs >> > wrote: >> >> I've been reading up on it to refresh my memory.? A lot of >> folks just take other peoples' word for it. >> >> CR >> >> On 7/5/2019 9:02 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: >>> Only certain weights. You have to read the labels, or >>> usually the spec sheets. >>> >>> -- >>> Max Heim >>> mvheim at sonic.net >>> >>> >>> >>>> On Jul 5, 2019, at 6:15 PM, FrankK >>> > wrote: >>>> >>>> I assume all those brands include the correct ZDDP >>>> proportions./ >>>> *From:* Max Heim >>>> *Sent:* Friday, July 5, 2019 9:02 PM >>>> *To:* FrankK ; MG List >>>> *Subject:* Re: [Mgs] Oil Additive >>>> Right, but there are other brands. I use Mobil1 15W50. >>>> Others use Royal Purple, Joe Gibbs, Kendall or AMSoil brands. >>>> -- >>>> Max Heim >>>> mvheim at sonic.net >>>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >>> >>> >>> man/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com >>> >>> >> > > > > -- > ___ > > Chris Attias > 8117 Azalea Dr. > Felton, CA 95018 > home: 831.335.2275 > cell: 831.247.0001 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frankk12 at verizon.net Sun Jul 7 09:28:57 2019 From: frankk12 at verizon.net (FrankK) Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2019 11:28:57 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Additive In-Reply-To: <4b56c66e-25b4-049c-3602-4e6525428e96@twc.com> References: <928d32b4-f121-970b-95e5-5864fc296485@twc.com> <41334e85-7322-dc7b-5e99-8bf65f5fd7fc@twc.com> <563b7edc-c398-0544-6d98-335ae678d40d@twc.com> <4b56c66e-25b4-049c-3602-4e6525428e96@twc.com> Message-ID: <41091914409E4272B2A5CDE31214B920@FrankPC> I have been using 20-50 VR1 in my 80 MGBLE but I see from the website that you provided that it should not be used in cars with catalytic converters which my 80 MGB has. In fact, all of the recommended oils with zddp should not be used in cars with catalytic converters so what should those of us with RBBs use? we need the zddp but not the added aggravation of concern about our cats? Frank Krajewski From: Charley Robinson via Mgs Sent: Sunday, July 7, 2019 10:07 AM To: Chris Attias ; Mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil Additive Maybe you haven't looked hard enough. I bought two quarts of 20W50 VR1 yesterday at my local Autozone. The other local stores carry it too. The first bullet on the back label calls it "High Performance/Racing Oil". Here's a blurb from Valvoline's website: https://sharena21.springcm.com/Public/Document/18452/18bdee61-0a7e-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3/a61538b4-0cbd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1 I've been using 20W50 VR1 in my '69 MGB for the last 5 years or so. I use synthetics in my newer cars. CR On 7/6/2019 10:01 PM, Chris Attias wrote: I don't claim exhaustive knowledge about all racing oils. Valvoline VR1 is primarily made for racing, and I'd call it a specialty oil. Not something I've seen on the shelves at local auto parts stores. On Sat, Jul 6, 2019 at 6:40 PM Charley Robinson wrote: Sorry, I don't agree unless you see Valvoline as a specialty motor oil supplier. CR On 7/6/2019 10:28 AM, Chris Attias wrote: As classifications change, old oil formulations become obsolete, the appropriate oil for flat tappet engines has become pretty much the product of specialty oil companies like Royal Purple, Driven/Joe Gibbs, Red Line, Lucas, and Collectors Choice (Moss). Chris On Fri, Jul 5, 2019 at 10:32 PM Charley Robinson via Mgs wrote: I've been reading up on it to refresh my memory. A lot of folks just take other peoples' word for it. CR On 7/5/2019 9:02 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: Only certain weights. You have to read the labels, or usually the spec sheets. -- Max Heim mvheim at sonic.net On Jul 5, 2019, at 6:15 PM, FrankK wrote: I assume all those brands include the correct ZDDP proportions./ From: Max Heim Sent: Friday, July 5, 2019 9:02 PM To: FrankK ; MG List Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil Additive Right, but there are other brands. I use Mobil1 15W50. Others use Royal Purple, Joe Gibbs, Kendall or AMSoil brands. -- Max Heim mvheim at sonic.net ------------------------------------------------------------------ man/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com -- ___ Chris Attias 8117 Azalea Dr. Felton, CA 95018 home: 831.335.2275 cell: 831.247.0001 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/frankk12 at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mgbobh at gmail.com Sun Jul 7 09:47:24 2019 From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad) Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2019 11:47:24 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Additive In-Reply-To: <41091914409E4272B2A5CDE31214B920@FrankPC> References: <928d32b4-f121-970b-95e5-5864fc296485@twc.com> <41334e85-7322-dc7b-5e99-8bf65f5fd7fc@twc.com> <563b7edc-c398-0544-6d98-335ae678d40d@twc.com> <4b56c66e-25b4-049c-3602-4e6525428e96@twc.com> <41091914409E4272B2A5CDE31214B920@FrankPC> Message-ID: <07E4DA1B-1327-4C66-99E3-7C41DEFEDFAC@gmail.com> Hi Frank, It?s unlikely that the 1980 catalyst is still catalysing; it?s probably been dead weight for years. On the chart we saw this morning VR1 has 1400 ppm ZDDP, so that answer the question about ZDDP and a sufficiency thereof. It should be fine to use in our engines. Is the cat needed in order to pass emissions in RI? It was in CT, the visual part of inspection, though one of our members with a 1980 made one of a tomato juice can that he installed before inspections. That passed the visual. Tailpipe emissions passed easily w/o it, but they needed to see something that looked like a cat in order to pass the visual inspection. My 1972, toward the end of the tailpipe checks, was passing easily. Some say that fuel within the past ten years will burn clean enough to pass. That?s my one-person experience. We no longer have tail-pipe checks in CT. Bob > On Jul 7, 2019, at 11:28 AM, FrankK via Mgs wrote: > > I have been using 20-50 VR1 in my 80 MGBLE but I see from the website that you provided that it should not be used in cars with catalytic converters which my 80 MGB has. In fact, all of the recommended oils with zddp should not be used in cars with catalytic converters so what should those of us with RBBs use? we need the zddp but not the added aggravation of concern about our cats? > Frank Krajewski > > From: Charley Robinson via Mgs > Sent: Sunday, July 7, 2019 10:07 AM > To: Chris Attias ; Mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil Additive > > Maybe you haven't looked hard enough. I bought two quarts of 20W50 VR1 yesterday at my local Autozone. The other local stores carry it too. The first bullet on the back label calls it "High Performance/Racing Oil". Here's a blurb from Valvoline's website: https://sharena21.springcm.com/Public/Document/18452/18bdee61-0a7e-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3/a61538b4-0cbd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1 > > I've been using 20W50 VR1 in my '69 MGB for the last 5 years or so. I use synthetics in my newer cars. > > CR > > >> On 7/6/2019 10:01 PM, Chris Attias wrote: >> I don't claim exhaustive knowledge about all racing oils. Valvoline VR1 is primarily made for racing, and I'd call it a specialty oil. Not something I've seen on the shelves at local auto parts stores. >> >> >>> On Sat, Jul 6, 2019 at 6:40 PM Charley Robinson wrote: >>> Sorry, I don't agree unless you see Valvoline as a specialty motor oil supplier. >>> >>> CR >>> >>>> On 7/6/2019 10:28 AM, Chris Attias wrote: >>>> >>>> As classifications change, old oil formulations become obsolete, the appropriate oil for flat tappet engines has become pretty much the product of specialty oil companies like Royal Purple, Driven/Joe Gibbs, Red Line, Lucas, and Collectors Choice (Moss). >>>> >>>> Chris >>>> >>>>> On Fri, Jul 5, 2019 at 10:32 PM Charley Robinson via Mgs wrote: >>>>> I've been reading up on it to refresh my memory. A lot of folks just take other peoples' word for it. >>>>> >>>>> CR >>>>> >>>>>> On 7/5/2019 9:02 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: >>>>>> Only certain weights. You have to read the labels, or usually the spec sheets. >>>>>> >>>>>> -- >>>>>> Max Heim >>>>>> mvheim at sonic.net >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>>> On Jul 5, 2019, at 6:15 PM, FrankK wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>> I assume all those brands include the correct ZDDP proportions./ >>>>>>> >>>>>>> From: Max Heim >>>>>>> Sent: Friday, July 5, 2019 9:02 PM >>>>>>> To: FrankK ; MG List >>>>>>> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil Additive >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Right, but there are other brands. I use Mobil1 15W50. Others use Royal Purple, Joe Gibbs, Kendall or AMSoil brands. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> -- >>>>>>> Max Heim >>>>>>> mvheim at sonic.net >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> man/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com >>>> >>>> >>> >> >> >> >> -- >> ___ >> >> Chris Attias >> 8117 Azalea Dr. >> Felton, CA 95018 >> home: 831.335.2275 >> cell: 831.247.0001 > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/frankk12 at verizon.net > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cjattias at gmail.com Sun Jul 7 11:03:58 2019 From: cjattias at gmail.com (Chris Attias) Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2019 10:03:58 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Additive In-Reply-To: <4b56c66e-25b4-049c-3602-4e6525428e96@twc.com> References: <928d32b4-f121-970b-95e5-5864fc296485@twc.com> <41334e85-7322-dc7b-5e99-8bf65f5fd7fc@twc.com> <563b7edc-c398-0544-6d98-335ae678d40d@twc.com> <4b56c66e-25b4-049c-3602-4e6525428e96@twc.com> Message-ID: I'll confess that I haven't been out to buy oil for about a year. I went out this morning to a couple of nearby stores, and sure enough, they had Valvoline VR1 and a couple other brands that were clearly labeled "High Zinc" or mentioned ZDDP on the label. It looks like a lot of oil companies are taking the old car/classics/hot rod market seriously. Valvoline conventional was the least expensive, at under $7.00/qt. As a side note, I've been using conventional oil because my experience with old seals and synthetic oil hasn't been good. An oil company rep told me that in their experience, synthetics have an improved detergent effect that points up wear in old seals that's been masked by a buildup of contaminants. It's a theory... Back to some of the earlier discussions...Correct me if I'm wrong, but Castrol seems to be the least forthcoming about ZDDP levels in their oils - I wasn't able to find a table specifying zinc in ppm for GTX. Rimmer Bros. in the UK sells something that looks like a Castrol for old cars, but I didn't see that available here. Not knowing, would you want to add ZDDP? I don't know. For an MGB with a catalyst, I'd probably think about using an oil with a known amount of ZDDP (ppm). Some oil companies publish this level. I've seen between 600 ppm and 1200 ppm. It's sort of a crap shoot with a bottle of additive, given that you might not know the concentration. On Sun, Jul 7, 2019 at 7:08 AM Charley Robinson wrote: > Maybe you haven't looked hard enough. I bought two quarts of 20W50 VR1 > yesterday at my local Autozone. The other local stores carry it too. The > first bullet on the back label calls it "High Performance/Racing Oil". > Here's a blurb from Valvoline's website: > https://sharena21.springcm.com/Public/Document/18452/18bdee61-0a7e-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3/a61538b4-0cbd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1 > > I've been using 20W50 VR1 in my '69 MGB for the last 5 years or so. I > use synthetics in my newer cars. > > CR > > > On 7/6/2019 10:01 PM, Chris Attias wrote: > > I don't claim exhaustive knowledge about all racing oils. Valvoline VR1 is > primarily made for racing, and I'd call it a specialty oil. Not something > I've seen on the shelves at local auto parts stores. > > > On Sat, Jul 6, 2019 at 6:40 PM Charley Robinson wrote: > >> Sorry, I don't agree unless you see Valvoline as a specialty motor oil >> supplier. >> >> CR >> >> On 7/6/2019 10:28 AM, Chris Attias wrote: >> >> >> As classifications change, old oil formulations become obsolete, the >> appropriate oil for flat tappet engines has become pretty much the product >> of specialty oil companies like Royal Purple, Driven/Joe Gibbs, Red Line, >> Lucas, and Collectors Choice (Moss). >> >> Chris >> >> On Fri, Jul 5, 2019 at 10:32 PM Charley Robinson via Mgs < >> mgs at autox.team.net> wrote: >> >>> I've been reading up on it to refresh my memory. A lot of folks just >>> take other peoples' word for it. >>> >>> CR >>> >>> On 7/5/2019 9:02 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: >>> >>> Only certain weights. You have to read the labels, or usually the spec >>> sheets. >>> >>> -- >>> Max Heim >>> mvheim at sonic.net >>> >>> >>> >>> On Jul 5, 2019, at 6:15 PM, FrankK wrote: >>> >>> I assume all those brands include the correct ZDDP proportions./ >>> >>> *From:* Max Heim >>> *Sent:* Friday, July 5, 2019 9:02 PM >>> *To:* FrankK ; MG List >>> *Subject:* Re: [Mgs] Oil Additive >>> >>> Right, but there are other brands. I use Mobil1 15W50. Others use Royal >>> Purple, Joe Gibbs, Kendall or AMSoil brands. >>> >>> >>> -- >>> Max Heim >>> mvheim at sonic.net >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> ------------------------------ >>> >>> >>> >>> man/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com >>> >>> >>> >> >> > > -- > ___ > > Chris Attias > 8117 Azalea Dr. > Felton, CA 95018 > home: 831.335.2275 > cell: 831.247.0001 > > > -- ___ Chris Attias 8117 Azalea Dr. Felton, CA 95018 home: 831.335.2275 cell: 831.247.0001 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Sun Jul 7 11:58:48 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2019 10:58:48 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Additive In-Reply-To: References: <928d32b4-f121-970b-95e5-5864fc296485@twc.com> <41334e85-7322-dc7b-5e99-8bf65f5fd7fc@twc.com> <563b7edc-c398-0544-6d98-335ae678d40d@twc.com> <4b56c66e-25b4-049c-3602-4e6525428e96@twc.com> Message-ID: Life is simpler where I live. I don't drive enough to worry about cam wear. And in Texas we have no emissions testing for cars 25 years and older so there's no worry about the catalytic converters. I would just change the oil and filter at 3000 mile intervals and use Castrol GTX in 20W50 weight. That said, I never drive 3000 miles so I just change oil and filter annually-ish. Rick On Sun, Jul 7, 2019, 10:04 AM Chris Attias via Mgs wrote: > I'll confess that I haven't been out to buy oil for about a year. I went > out this morning to a couple of nearby stores, and sure enough, they had > Valvoline VR1 and a couple other brands that were clearly labeled "High > Zinc" or mentioned ZDDP on the label. It looks like a lot of oil companies > are taking the old car/classics/hot rod market seriously. Valvoline > conventional was the least expensive, at under $7.00/qt. > > As a side note, I've been using conventional oil because my experience > with old seals and synthetic oil hasn't been good. An oil company rep told > me that in their experience, synthetics have an improved detergent effect > that points up wear in old seals that's been masked by a buildup of > contaminants. It's a theory... > > Back to some of the earlier discussions...Correct me if I'm wrong, but > Castrol seems to be the least forthcoming about ZDDP levels in their oils - > I wasn't able to find a table specifying zinc in ppm for GTX. Rimmer Bros. > in the UK sells something that looks like a Castrol for old cars, but I > didn't see that available here. Not knowing, would you want to add ZDDP? I > don't know. > > For an MGB with a catalyst, I'd probably think about using an oil with a > known amount of ZDDP (ppm). Some oil companies publish this level. I've > seen between 600 ppm and 1200 ppm. It's sort of a crap shoot with a bottle > of additive, given that you might not know the concentration. > > > > On Sun, Jul 7, 2019 at 7:08 AM Charley Robinson wrote: > >> Maybe you haven't looked hard enough. I bought two quarts of 20W50 VR1 >> yesterday at my local Autozone. The other local stores carry it too. The >> first bullet on the back label calls it "High Performance/Racing Oil". >> Here's a blurb from Valvoline's website: >> https://sharena21.springcm.com/Public/Document/18452/18bdee61-0a7e-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3/a61538b4-0cbd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1 >> >> I've been using 20W50 VR1 in my '69 MGB for the last 5 years or so. I >> use synthetics in my newer cars. >> >> CR >> >> >> On 7/6/2019 10:01 PM, Chris Attias wrote: >> >> I don't claim exhaustive knowledge about all racing oils. Valvoline VR1 >> is primarily made for racing, and I'd call it a specialty oil. Not >> something I've seen on the shelves at local auto parts stores. >> >> >> On Sat, Jul 6, 2019 at 6:40 PM Charley Robinson >> wrote: >> >>> Sorry, I don't agree unless you see Valvoline as a specialty motor oil >>> supplier. >>> >>> CR >>> >>> On 7/6/2019 10:28 AM, Chris Attias wrote: >>> >>> >>> As classifications change, old oil formulations become obsolete, the >>> appropriate oil for flat tappet engines has become pretty much the product >>> of specialty oil companies like Royal Purple, Driven/Joe Gibbs, Red Line, >>> Lucas, and Collectors Choice (Moss). >>> >>> Chris >>> >>> On Fri, Jul 5, 2019 at 10:32 PM Charley Robinson via Mgs < >>> mgs at autox.team.net> wrote: >>> >>>> I've been reading up on it to refresh my memory. A lot of folks just >>>> take other peoples' word for it. >>>> >>>> CR >>>> >>>> On 7/5/2019 9:02 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: >>>> >>>> Only certain weights. You have to read the labels, or usually the spec >>>> sheets. >>>> >>>> -- >>>> Max Heim >>>> mvheim at sonic.net >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> On Jul 5, 2019, at 6:15 PM, FrankK wrote: >>>> >>>> I assume all those brands include the correct ZDDP proportions./ >>>> >>>> *From:* Max Heim >>>> *Sent:* Friday, July 5, 2019 9:02 PM >>>> *To:* FrankK ; MG List >>>> *Subject:* Re: [Mgs] Oil Additive >>>> >>>> Right, but there are other brands. I use Mobil1 15W50. Others use Royal >>>> Purple, Joe Gibbs, Kendall or AMSoil brands. >>>> >>>> >>>> -- >>>> Max Heim >>>> mvheim at sonic.net >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> ------------------------------ >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> man/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >> >> -- >> ___ >> >> Chris Attias >> 8117 Azalea Dr. >> Felton, CA 95018 >> home: 831.335.2275 >> cell: 831.247.0001 >> >> >> > > -- > ___ > > Chris Attias > 8117 Azalea Dr. > Felton, CA 95018 > home: 831.335.2275 > cell: 831.247.0001 > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richardolindsay at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Sun Jul 7 15:28:47 2019 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2019 16:28:47 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Additive In-Reply-To: References: <928d32b4-f121-970b-95e5-5864fc296485@twc.com> <41334e85-7322-dc7b-5e99-8bf65f5fd7fc@twc.com> <563b7edc-c398-0544-6d98-335ae678d40d@twc.com> Message-ID: <001e01d5350a$f6d02980$e4707c80$@ranteer.com> Valvoline VR-1 full synthetic is available from https://stores.advanceautoparts.com/ Free shipping after $25, which is 3 quarts and arrives in about 3 days. Has lots of zddp. Been using it for years. And we autocross the car. Highly recommended along with WIX filters. From: Mgs On Behalf Of Chris Attias via Mgs Sent: Saturday, July 6, 2019 10:01 PM To: Charley38 at twc.com Cc: Mga List Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil Additive I don't claim exhaustive knowledge about all racing oils. Valvoline VR1 is primarily made for racing, and I'd call it a specialty oil. Not something I've seen on the shelves at local auto parts stores. The most non-specialty oil I've seen is Mobil 1 15W-50, with an API classification SN, that has 1200 ppm zinc, and isn't recommended for extended use in cars with catalytic convertors. On Sat, Jul 6, 2019 at 6:40 PM Charley Robinson > wrote: Sorry, I don't agree unless you see Valvoline as a specialty motor oil supplier. CR On 7/6/2019 10:28 AM, Chris Attias wrote: As classifications change, old oil formulations become obsolete, the appropriate oil for flat tappet engines has become pretty much the product of specialty oil companies like Royal Purple, Driven/Joe Gibbs, Red Line, Lucas, and Collectors Choice (Moss). Chris On Fri, Jul 5, 2019 at 10:32 PM Charley Robinson via Mgs > wrote: I've been reading up on it to refresh my memory. A lot of folks just take other peoples' word for it. CR On 7/5/2019 9:02 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: Only certain weights. You have to read the labels, or usually the spec sheets. -- Max Heim mvheim at sonic.net On Jul 5, 2019, at 6:15 PM, FrankK > wrote: I assume all those brands include the correct ZDDP proportions./ From: Max Heim Sent: Friday, July 5, 2019 9:02 PM To: FrankK ; MG List Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil Additive Right, but there are other brands. I use Mobil1 15W50. Others use Royal Purple, Joe Gibbs, Kendall or AMSoil brands. -- Max Heim mvheim at sonic.net _____ man/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com -- ___ Chris Attias 8117 Azalea Dr. Felton, CA 95018 home: 831.335.2275 cell: 831.247.0001 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lundgren at byu.net Sun Jul 7 15:53:24 2019 From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew Lundgren) Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2019 15:53:24 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Additive In-Reply-To: <001e01d5350a$f6d02980$e4707c80$@ranteer.com> References: <928d32b4-f121-970b-95e5-5864fc296485@twc.com> <41334e85-7322-dc7b-5e99-8bf65f5fd7fc@twc.com> <563b7edc-c398-0544-6d98-335ae678d40d@twc.com> <001e01d5350a$f6d02980$e4707c80$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: I use that as well. Napa and some AutoZone locations here stock it here. On Sun, Jul 7, 2019, 3:29 PM dave via Mgs wrote: > Valvoline VR-1 full synthetic is available from > https://stores.advanceautoparts.com/ > > > > Free shipping after $25, which is 3 quarts and arrives in about 3 days. > Has lots of zddp. Been using it for years. And we autocross the car. > Highly recommended along with WIX filters. > > > > *From:* Mgs *On Behalf Of *Chris Attias via > Mgs > *Sent:* Saturday, July 6, 2019 10:01 PM > *To:* Charley38 at twc.com > *Cc:* Mga List > *Subject:* Re: [Mgs] Oil Additive > > > > I don't claim exhaustive knowledge about all racing oils. Valvoline VR1 is > primarily made for racing, and I'd call it a specialty oil. Not something > I've seen on the shelves at local auto parts stores. The most non-specialty > oil I've seen is Mobil 1 15W-50, with an API classification SN, that has > 1200 ppm zinc, and isn't recommended for extended use in cars with > catalytic convertors. > > > > > > On Sat, Jul 6, 2019 at 6:40 PM Charley Robinson wrote: > > Sorry, I don't agree unless you see Valvoline as a specialty motor oil > supplier. > > CR > > On 7/6/2019 10:28 AM, Chris Attias wrote: > > > > As classifications change, old oil formulations become obsolete, the > appropriate oil for flat tappet engines has become pretty much the product > of specialty oil companies like Royal Purple, Driven/Joe Gibbs, Red Line, > Lucas, and Collectors Choice (Moss). > > > > Chris > > > > On Fri, Jul 5, 2019 at 10:32 PM Charley Robinson via Mgs < > mgs at autox.team.net> wrote: > > I've been reading up on it to refresh my memory. A lot of folks just take > other peoples' word for it. > > CR > > On 7/5/2019 9:02 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: > > Only certain weights. You have to read the labels, or usually the spec > sheets. > > > > -- > > Max Heim > > mvheim at sonic.net > > > > > > > > On Jul 5, 2019, at 6:15 PM, FrankK wrote: > > > > I assume all those brands include the correct ZDDP proportions./ > > > > *From:* Max Heim > > *Sent:* Friday, July 5, 2019 9:02 PM > > *To:* FrankK ; MG List > > *Subject:* Re: [Mgs] Oil Additive > > > > Right, but there are other brands. I use Mobil1 15W50. Others use Royal > Purple, Joe Gibbs, Kendall or AMSoil brands. > > > > > > -- > > Max Heim > > mvheim at sonic.net > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > > man/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com > > > > > > > > > > -- > > ___ > > > > Chris Attias > > 8117 Azalea Dr. > > Felton, CA 95018 > > home: 831.335.2275 > > cell: 831.247.0001 > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From strovato at optonline.net Sun Jul 7 16:00:04 2019 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Sun, 07 Jul 2019 18:00:04 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Additive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <37.5B.17549.EAB622D5@mta3.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> I figure that oil companies have put together a package where all the detergents and other components play nicely together. Since oil is available that is appropriate for old cars with enough ZDDP, I'll let the company be responsible for the whole package and not mess around with it. When Castrol made their Syntec 20W50 "for classic cars" I used that. When they discontinued that, I switched to the Mobil 1 15W50. It is easy to find at a good price at Walmart. The Valvoline is a fine choice as well. -Steve T. At 11:50 AM 7/5/2019, FrankK via Mgs wrote: >There was a great deal of discussion here >regarding the use of different oil to compensate >for the lack of ZDDP in oil these days. I >didn???t see anyone include a discussion of the >practice of adding ZDDP to oil that is lacking >in it. There are several sources where it is >available and I have availed myself of it and >added it to my Castrol 20-50 when I change the oil in my 80 MGBLE. >Is there a problem in doing this in lieu of using Valvoline Racing Oil say? >Frank Krajewski >___________________ --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From richardolindsay at gmail.com Sun Jul 7 16:14:14 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2019 15:14:14 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Additive In-Reply-To: <37.5B.17549.EAB622D5@mta3.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> References: <37.5B.17549.EAB622D5@mta3.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Message-ID: Additives do nothing, or less, for healthy engines...except for the zinc stuff being discussed. However, there are additives that are Bandaids for weak or damaged engines. 'Restore' has something within that swells leaking valve stem seals, allowing a few more smoke-free miles from a high mileage car. Evidence: My son's zillion mile E-class Mercedes when in highschool, two decades ago. 'STP', of all things, adds just a bit more viscosity to the straight 50 weight oil in my 150k plus Land Rover, lending a bit more pressure at hot idle. Read: The oil light no longer flickers at idle in 100?F traffic. Right or wrong, Rick On Sun, Jul 7, 2019, 3:01 PM Steven Trovato via Mgs wrote: > I figure that oil companies have put together a > package where all the detergents and other > components play nicely together. Since oil is > available that is appropriate for old cars with > enough ZDDP, I'll let the company be responsible > for the whole package and not mess around with > it. When Castrol made their Syntec 20W50 "for > classic cars" I used that. When they > discontinued that, I switched to the Mobil 1 > 15W50. It is easy to find at a good price at > Walmart. The Valvoline is a fine choice as well. > > -Steve T. > > At 11:50 AM 7/5/2019, FrankK via Mgs wrote: > >There was a great deal of discussion here > >regarding the use of different oil to compensate > >for the lack of ZDDP in oil these days. I > >didn???t see anyone include a discussion of the > >practice of adding ZDDP to oil that is lacking > >in it. There are several sources where it is > >available and I have availed myself of it and > >added it to my Castrol 20-50 when I change the oil in my 80 MGBLE. > >Is there a problem in doing this in lieu of using Valvoline Racing Oil > say? > >Frank Krajewski > >___________________ > > > --- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richardolindsay at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From strovato at optonline.net Sun Jul 7 18:55:37 2019 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Sun, 07 Jul 2019 20:55:37 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Additive In-Reply-To: References: <37.5B.17549.EAB622D5@mta3.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Message-ID: <05.AB.05532.615922D5@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Rick, I wasn't really addressing anything but the ZDDP additive mentioned in the original post. I do agree, though, and I do not use any additives. I suppose I might consider it for a specific problem like you mention. -Steve At 06:14 PM 7/7/2019, Richard Lindsay wrote: >Additives do nothing, or less, for healthy >engines...except for the zinc stuff being >discussed. However, there are additives that are >Bandaids for weak or damaged engines. > >'Restore' has something within that swells >leaking valve stem seals, allowing a few more >smoke-free miles from a high mileage car. >Evidence: My son's zillion mile E-class Mercedes >when in highschool, two decades ago. > >'STP', of all things, adds just a bit more >viscosity to the straight 50 weight oil in my >150k plus Land Rover, lending a bit more >pressure at hot idle. Read: The oil light no >longer flickers at idle in 100??F traffic. > >Right or wrong, > >Rick --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From dave at ranteer.com Mon Jul 8 16:02:12 2019 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2019 17:02:12 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGA and MGB clutch slave cylinders Message-ID: <004601d535d8$cbeb2110$63c16330$@ranteer.com> Can anyone verify that 1. The threads for an MGA slave cylinder bleed valve are 7/16 x 20 2. The threads for an MGB slave cylinder bleed valve are 3/8 x 24 Thank you -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From barneymg at mgaguru.com Mon Jul 8 19:30:24 2019 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2019 20:30:24 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGA and MGB clutch slave cylinders In-Reply-To: <004601d535d8$cbeb2110$63c16330$@ranteer.com> References: <004601d535d8$cbeb2110$63c16330$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: No. They both use the same clutch slave cylinder. Threads are 3/8-24-UNF. At 05:02 PM 7/8/2019, dave via Mgs wrote: >.... >Can anyone verify that > * The threads for an MGA slave cylinder bleed valve are 7/16 x 20 > * The threads for an MGB slave cylinder bleed valve are 3/8 x 24 >Thank you -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From palte at gmx.net Tue Jul 9 01:05:41 2019 From: palte at gmx.net (Bert Palte) Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2019 09:05:41 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] MGA and MGB clutch slave cylinders Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From peter at nosimport.com Tue Jul 9 09:05:44 2019 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell) Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2019 09:05:44 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] MGA and MGB clutch slave cylinders In-Reply-To: <004601d535d8$cbeb2110$63c16330$@ranteer.com> References: <004601d535d8$cbeb2110$63c16330$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <44d065e0-9993-84c8-03a2-72d3f4fbce95@nosimport.com> Dave,? I only have the original Lockheed 1500 slave cylinders (94202) and they are 7/16-20 in both ports. Moss catalog chows a different bleed screw part number for B slave and B calipers.? i know the calipers are 3/8-24, so possibly the B are the 7/16-20 as the flex hose is, and the 2 ports are often switched. ? Peter C -- On 7/8/2019 5:02 PM, dave via Mgs wrote: > > Can anyone verify that > > 1. The threads for an MGA slave cylinder bleed valve are 7/16 x 20 > 2. The threads for an MGB slave cylinder bleed valve are 3/8 x 24 > > Thank you > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/peter at nosimport.com -- World Wide Auto Parts of Madison WI 2517 Seiferth Rd Madison WI 53716-3302 USA 608.223-9400 M-F 9-5 Central -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Tue Jul 9 09:36:25 2019 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2019 16:36:25 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGA and MGB clutch slave cylinders References: <004601d535d8$cbeb2110$63c16330$@ranteer.com> <44d065e0-9993-84c8-03a2-72d3f4fbce95@nosimport.com> Message-ID: <8C2BE4CCC20F4701BAA78A9B986E4024@paul> I can confirm that the MGB clutch slave has the same thread for both bleed nipple and hose as the bleed nipple is usually supplied fitted to the hose port. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- ... i know the calipers are 3/8-24, so possibly the B are the 7/16-20 as the flex hose is, and the 2 ports are often switched. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From barneymg at mgaguru.com Tue Jul 9 12:49:42 2019 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2019 13:49:42 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGA and MGB clutch slave cylinders In-Reply-To: <20190709013102.306E1A0DE7@autox.team.net> References: <004601d535d8$cbeb2110$63c16330$@ranteer.com> <20190709013102.306E1A0DE7@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Okay, I may have to extract foot from mouth here. All MGA brake bleed nipples are same part number for drum and disc brakes, 3/8-24-UNF thread and should be 7/16-inch wrench size. The bleed nipple for clutch slave cylinder is a different part number, so may well be 7/16-20-UNF thread. It is definitely the same clutch slave cylinder for MGB and MGA (not Twin Cam). Barney At 08:30 PM 7/8/2019, Barney Gaylord via Mgs wrote: >No. They both use the same clutch slave cylinder. Threads are 3/8-24-UNF. >At 05:02 PM 7/8/2019, dave via Mgs wrote: >>.... >>Can anyone verify that >> * The threads for an MGA slave cylinder bleed valve are 7/16 x 20 >> * The threads for an MGB slave cylinder bleed valve are 3/8 x 24 >>Thank you -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From spridget at gmail.com Sat Jul 13 13:22:17 2019 From: spridget at gmail.com (Stan Fickes) Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2019 15:22:17 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGA crankcase ventilation Message-ID: I have an MGA 1600, under 2,000 miles since the engine rebuild. While working on an unrelated issue, I discovered that the front air filter was thoroughly soaked in oil. The source was the vent hose between the air filter and the valve cover. I found significant (to my lack of experience with this system!) pulsing air blowing through the hose at idle. A compression test returned values between 125 and 130 psi in each cylinder. I used my blow-down tool (air fitting brazed to spark plug casing -- http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/be110.htm -- thanks Barney!) and heard no hissing on any cylinder; valve cover, carburetor, or exhaust. Then, with all the plugs out, I cranked the motor with the starter and felt plenty of air pumping out of the valve cover port. I think that rules out poor ring sealing since there was no compression. Any ideas where the pulsing air could be coming from? The bottoms of the pistons oppose each other, so there should be no net air movement from there. I doubt the volume of air coming out the hose is normal, but I am certain the volume of oil is not. It was dripping from the filter element. If the air is normal, I suppose I could make a baffle to reduce the splashed oil into the hose, but I shouldn't need to change from what the factory made. Thanks! Stan -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Sun Jul 14 02:29:11 2019 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2019 09:29:11 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGA crankcase ventilation References: Message-ID: IME you should always hear some hissing when putting compressed air into a cylinder, ring sealing isn't perfect. Removing one plug at a time may show which cylinder or cylinders are at fault if the pulsing lessens. Air pulsing out of the rocker cover definitely indicates a major compression leak from somewhere, despite your compression readings. Having said that AFAIK an MGA should also have a 'road draught tube' hanging down from the front tappet chest cover, which is another route for air to pass in and out of the crankcase. Perhaps that is blocked. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- kcase ventilation I have an MGA 1600, under 2,000 miles since the engine rebuild. While working on an unrelated issue, I discovered that the front air filter was thoroughly soaked in oil. The source was the vent hose between the air filter and the valve cover. I found significant (to my lack of experience with this system!) pulsing air blowing through the hose at idle. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From spridget at gmail.com Sun Jul 14 13:05:00 2019 From: spridget at gmail.com (Stan Fickes) Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2019 15:05:00 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGA crankcase ventilation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks, Paul! I concluded when I cranked the motor with no plugs installed and still felt the pulsing air that it was not a compression issue. For completeness, I need to try the same thing with the plugs installed, to see if there is a difference. I just can't think what else would pump air into the crankcase/rocker cover! I checked the draught tube this afternoon by squirting some low-pressure air into the rocker cover tube, and felt a gentle stream of air out the bottom. I should also check that with the starter motor turning to see if it's consistent between the two tubes. Thanks! Stan On Sun, Jul 14, 2019 at 4:31 AM PaulHunt73 wrote: > IME you should always hear some hissing when putting compressed air into a > cylinder, ring sealing isn't perfect. > > Removing one plug at a time may show which cylinder or cylinders are at > fault if the pulsing lessens. > > Air pulsing out of the rocker cover definitely indicates a major > compression leak from somewhere, despite your compression readings. > > Having said that AFAIK an MGA should also have a 'road draught tube' > hanging down from the front tappet chest cover, which is another route for > air to pass in and out of the crankcase. Perhaps that is blocked. > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- kcase ventilation > > I have an MGA 1600, under 2,000 miles since the engine rebuild. While > working on an unrelated issue, I discovered that the front air filter was > thoroughly soaked in oil. The source was the vent hose between the air > filter and the valve cover. I found significant (to my lack of experience > with this system!) pulsing air blowing through the hose at idle. > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Mon Jul 15 04:41:59 2019 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2019 11:41:59 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGA crankcase ventilation References: Message-ID: If it's not compression leaking then I can't think what would cause excessive pulsing out of the breathers. Except ... Although two pistons are going down while the other two are going up, the movement is not symmetrical. Don't ask me to explain the physical logic behind it, but when the crank has turned 90 degrees from TDC the piston has moved more than halfway down the stroke, and from that position to BDC the piston moves less than half the stroke. So for that 90 degrees of crank movement the undersides of the pistons coming down the first 'half' of the stroke are displacing more air than the ones going up can 'absorb' so you get a positive pressure, but for the second half of the strokes the situation is reversed to give a slight negative pressure. But on my MGB - different crankcase ventilation system but still two routes in and out of the crankcase - I can seal off one and I get no more than a slight fluttering in the other. Maybe the problem is not so much excessive pulsing, with you expecting there to be no movement in the breather at all, but excessive oil in the rocker cover around the vent. The road-draught system is pretty hit and miss as to which way air will flow through the crankcase, and I wouldn't have though that suck unfiltered air in from the road-draught tube was a Good Thing, but if the intake can suck air through the rocker cover tube at any time, then it will draw oil along with it. The question is why there should be enough negative pressure on that tube to do it. I don't know about the MGA but on the MGB that tube is on the 'dirty' side of the filter, which in theory shouldn't be under significant negative pressure, unlike the 'clean' side of the filter at wide throttle openings. Unless the intake to the can is restricted somehow. But if the tube is connected to the clean side of the filter then the intake system will be continually sucking air through the tube, and any oil droplets that are in the vicinity. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- From: Stan Fickes To: PaulHunt73 Cc: mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, July 14, 2019 8:05 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA crankcase ventilation Thanks, Paul! I concluded when I cranked the motor with no plugs installed and still felt the pulsing air that it was not a compression issue. For completeness, I need to try the same thing with the plugs installed, to see if there is a difference. I just can't think what else would pump air into the crankcase/rocker cover! I checked the draught tube this afternoon by squirting some low-pressure air into the rocker cover tube, and felt a gentle stream of air out the bottom. I should also check that with the starter motor turning to see if it's consistent between the two tubes. Thanks! Stan -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From barrob at bell.net Wed Jul 17 13:45:51 2019 From: barrob at bell.net (Barrie Robinson) Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2019 15:45:51 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Battery drain Message-ID: <50a7d563-0bd2-8536-9646-d2240a63e157@bell.net> Hello folks, After leaving my MGB GT V8 for a few days - maybe 4 or 5? I find the battery is completely flat.? Did that 3 times.? So I took the battery out, charged it and waited 3 days.? The voltage dropped from 13.15V on Sunday 3pm to 12.91V 3pm Wednesday which does not seem to indicate that it is the battery's problem???? I did have a radio fitted but cannot say if it was after that that the battery went flat.?? So any tips on how to find out what is going on would be appreciated (and thank you in advance) - I will try to disconnect the radio but that is a pain - I have to find the special tool to slip it out !!!!?? But surely if the radio is off (blank screen) it should be /off./ By the way my new $$$$$ radio with windscreen mounted antenna cannot bring in 91.5FM or 99.1FM, the only stations I listen to because they do not have adverts.......but my cheap $ new portable one can get them inside my car !!!!! Cheers Barrie -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Thu Jul 18 01:27:20 2019 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2019 08:27:20 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Battery drain References: <50a7d563-0bd2-8536-9646-d2240a63e157@bell.net> Message-ID: <1D1E73693F244CAF8662261CC6E847CD@paul> That's a significant drain, even with alarm, radio and clock it should last for 2-3 weeks. Your battery voltage off-car seems OK, but that is not a good indication of the amount of charge i.e. cranking power. If you put it back on the car after three days and it cranked OK that does indicate the battery itself is OK - up to a point. However the Lucas Fault Diagnosis Manual states that if a battery becomes 25% discharged then the on-board charging systems will never get it back to full capacity, and if it has become completely discharged they will never put back more than 50% capacity. For that reason a flattened battery has to be boost charged for a period to restore full capacity. Using a conventional charger this means charging at 16-17v for a couple of hours in a well ventilated space. Or you can use one of the more sophisticated 'maintenance' chargers but only if they have a 'recovery' program, and not all do. These charge using pulses of up to 20v. But back to the drain. If you have an analogue meter switch to its 12v i.e. VOLTS range and connect it in place of the battery earth lead. With no drains on a car with an alternator you should see a few volts registered. If it shows 12v there is a drain. In that case the first thing to do is unplug the alternator, and if the drain drops to zero that is the culprit. With the few volts registered unplugging the alternator should also drop it to zero. But if still at 12v start disconnecting things like your radio, the purple circuit fuse, remove browns from things like the ignition switch, lighting switch, starter relay, hazard fuse and so on, looking at the meter each time. If still there remove the browns from the starter solenoid, and finally the battery cable from the solenoid, but normally it will have been discovered by now. You can also do this with a digital meter but they are far more sensitive and will show 12v even with just the normal alternator leakage, and may not fully drop to zero with that disconnected if there is dampness anywhere. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- After leaving my MGB GT V8 for a few days - maybe 4 or 5 I find the battery is completely flat. Did that 3 times. So I took the battery out, charged it and waited 3 days. The voltage dropped from 13.15V on Sunday 3pm to 12.91V 3pm Wednesday which does not seem to indicate that it is the battery's problem? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Jul 18 11:08:17 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2019 10:08:17 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Battery drain In-Reply-To: <50a7d563-0bd2-8536-9646-d2240a63e157@bell.net> References: <50a7d563-0bd2-8536-9646-d2240a63e157@bell.net> Message-ID: Try undoing the last thing you did. Disconect the radio and see if the drain stops. Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Wed, Jul 17, 2019, 12:46 PM Barrie Robinson via Mgs wrote: > Hello folks, > > After leaving my MGB GT V8 for a few days - maybe 4 or 5 I find the > battery is completely flat. Did that 3 times. So I took the battery out, > charged it and waited 3 days. The voltage dropped from 13.15V on Sunday > 3pm to 12.91V 3pm Wednesday which does not seem to indicate that it is the > battery's problem? I did have a radio fitted but cannot say if it was > after that that the battery went flat. So any tips on how to find out > what is going on would be appreciated (and thank you in advance) - I will > try to disconnect the radio but that is a pain - I have to find the special > tool to slip it out !!!! But surely if the radio is off (blank screen) it > should be *off.* By the way my new $$$$$ radio with windscreen mounted > antenna cannot bring in 91.5FM or 99.1FM, the only stations I listen to > because they do not have adverts.......but my cheap $ new portable one can > get them inside my car !!!!! > > Cheers > Barrie > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Thu Jul 18 14:33:23 2019 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2019 22:33:23 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] FW: Battery drain References: <50a7d563-0bd2-8536-9646-d2240a63e157@bell.net> Message-ID: <006201d53da8$0bd1b330$23751990$@planet.nl> I had this some years ago. Proved to be leaky diodes in the rectifier block in the alternator. So I took the alternator to the shop for an overhaul. Works fine for years now. Cheers, Hans 71 BGT NRG Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Barrie Robinson via Mgs Verzonden: woensdag 17 juli 2019 21:46 Aan: MGB List; MGB V8 List Onderwerp: [Mgs] Battery drain Hello folks, After leaving my MGB GT V8 for a few days - maybe 4 or 5 I find the battery is completely flat. Did that 3 times. So I took the battery out, charged it and waited 3 days. The voltage dropped from 13.15V on Sunday 3pm to 12.91V 3pm Wednesday which does not seem to indicate that it is the battery's problem? I did have a radio fitted but cannot say if it was after that that the battery went flat. So any tips on how to find out what is going on would be appreciated (and thank you in advance) - I will try to disconnect the radio but that is a pain - I have to find the special tool to slip it out !!!! But surely if the radio is off (blank screen) it should be off. By the way my new $$$$$ radio with windscreen mounted antenna cannot bring in 91.5FM or 99.1FM, the only stations I listen to because they do not have adverts.......but my cheap $ new portable one can get them inside my car !!!!! Cheers Barrie --- Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 1971mgb at cox.net Thu Jul 18 14:45:55 2019 From: 1971mgb at cox.net (NA Price) Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2019 16:45:55 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Mgs] FW: Battery drain In-Reply-To: <006201d53da8$0bd1b330$23751990$@planet.nl> References: <50a7d563-0bd2-8536-9646-d2240a63e157@bell.net> <006201d53da8$0bd1b330$23751990$@planet.nl> Message-ID: <1316048876.49018.1563482755862@myemail.cox.net> mine was a simple fix, my trunk light stayed when lowering the trunk lid on took the bulb out problem solved, never had a problem again n July 18, 2019 at 4:33 PM Hans Duinhoven via Mgs wrote: > > > > I had this some years ago. > > Proved to be leaky diodes in the rectifier block in the alternator. > > So I took the alternator to the shop for an overhaul. > > Works fine for years now. > > > > Cheers, > > Hans 71 BGT NRG > > > > Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Barrie Robinson via Mgs > Verzonden: woensdag 17 juli 2019 21:46 > Aan: MGB List; MGB V8 List > Onderwerp: [Mgs] Battery drain > > > > Hello folks, > > After leaving my MGB GT V8 for a few days - maybe 4 or 5 I find the battery is completely flat. Did that 3 times. So I took the battery out, charged it and waited 3 days. The voltage dropped from 13.15V on Sunday 3pm to 12.91V 3pm Wednesday which does not seem to indicate that it is the battery's problem? I did have a radio fitted but cannot say if it was after that that the battery went flat. So any tips on how to find out what is going on would be appreciated (and thank you in advance) - I will try to disconnect the radio but that is a pain - I have to find the special tool to slip it out !!!! But surely if the radio is off (blank screen) it should be off. By the way my new $$$$$ radio with windscreen mounted antenna cannot bring in 91.5FM or 99.1FM, the only stations I listen to because they do not have adverts.......but my cheap $ new portable one can get them inside my car !!!!! > > Cheers > Barrie > > https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient > > Virusvrij. www.avast.com https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/1971mgb at cox.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Thu Jul 18 15:15:22 2019 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2019 14:15:22 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Battery drain In-Reply-To: <1316048876.49018.1563482755862@myemail.cox.net> References: <50a7d563-0bd2-8536-9646-d2240a63e157@bell.net> <006201d53da8$0bd1b330$23751990$@planet.nl> <1316048876.49018.1563482755862@myemail.cox.net> Message-ID: Well, that?s fixing the symptom if not the problem? -- Max Heim '66 MGB > On Jul 18, 2019, at 1:45 PM, NA Price via Mgs wrote: > > mine was a simple fix, my trunk light stayed when lowering the trunk lid on took the bulb out problem solved, never had a problem again > > > > n July 18, 2019 at 4:33 PM Hans Duinhoven via Mgs wrote: > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Thu Jul 18 15:28:46 2019 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2019 23:28:46 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Battery drain In-Reply-To: References: <50a7d563-0bd2-8536-9646-d2240a63e157@bell.net> <006201d53da8$0bd1b330$23751990$@planet.nl> <1316048876.49018.1563482755862@myemail.cox.net> Message-ID: <008e01d53daf$c95f8830$5c1e9890$@planet.nl> Same as a faulty engine. Get it out en become Fred Flintstone? Cheers, Hans Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Max Heim via Mgs Verzonden: donderdag 18 juli 2019 23:15 Aan: MG List Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Battery drain Well, that?s fixing the symptom if not the problem? -- Max Heim '66 MGB On Jul 18, 2019, at 1:45 PM, NA Price via Mgs wrote: mine was a simple fix, my trunk light stayed when lowering the trunk lid on took the bulb out problem solved, never had a problem again n July 18, 2019 at 4:33 PM Hans Duinhoven via Mgs wrote: --- Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 1971mgb at cox.net Thu Jul 18 16:32:30 2019 From: 1971mgb at cox.net (NA Price) Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2019 18:32:30 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Mgs] Battery drain In-Reply-To: <008e01d53daf$c95f8830$5c1e9890$@planet.nl> References: <50a7d563-0bd2-8536-9646-d2240a63e157@bell.net> <006201d53da8$0bd1b330$23751990$@planet.nl> <1316048876.49018.1563482755862@myemail.cox.net> <008e01d53daf$c95f8830$5c1e9890$@planet.nl> Message-ID: <1659734447.53814.1563489151080@myemail.cox.net> lol, u r all right, I fixed the symptom and the problem, just bend the bulb holder down a little, now just last week I left my headlights on, my neighbor told me about it, dead battery, jumped the battery and off I went, you can fix the symptom u can't fix stupid. I got 3 B's one I drive as a daily driver the other two are sitting in a garage, I drive those two every month or so. I always find myself doing stupid things with all three cars. Still love all three the same > On July 18, 2019 at 5:28 PM Hans Duinhoven via Mgs wrote: > > > Same as a faulty engine. Get it out en become Fred Flintstone? > > > > Cheers, > > Hans > > > > Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Max Heim via Mgs > Verzonden: donderdag 18 juli 2019 23:15 > Aan: MG List > Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Battery drain > > > > Well, that?s fixing the symptom if not the problem? > > > > -- > > Max Heim > > '66 MGB > > > > > > > > On Jul 18, 2019, at 1:45 PM, NA Price via Mgs wrote: > > > > > > > > mine was a simple fix, my trunk light stayed when lowering the trunk lid on took the bulb out problem solved, never had a problem again > > > > > > > > n July 18, 2019 at 4:33 PM Hans Duinhoven via Mgs wrote: > > > > > > > > https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient > > Virusvrij. www.avast.com https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/1971mgb at cox.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Thu Jul 18 18:04:01 2019 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2019 17:04:01 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Battery drain In-Reply-To: <7C481659-7B88-4CBC-B416-DBCD023EBC10@gmail.com> References: <50a7d563-0bd2-8536-9646-d2240a63e157@bell.net> <006201d53da8$0bd1b330$23751990$@planet.nl> <1316048876.49018.1563482755862@myemail.cox.net> <008e01d53daf$c95f8830$5c1e9890$@planet.nl> <1659734447.53814.1563489151080@myemail.cox.net> <7C481659-7B88-4CBC-B416-DBCD023EBC10@gmail.com> Message-ID: <9D593E07-27E0-4570-AA8B-0787E00693B0@sonic.net> Not all of us. My newer driver is 1967. So my routine in the B is, whenever I park, I look at the toggle switches to check they are all facing the same way: OFF. BTW that is a great user interface feature of the cars of this era (up to the late 60s), that has been lost in modern instrument panels ? you can tell all the switches are off at a glance. In most modern cars, every function has a completely different interface design (push/pull/rock/twist) in a different location ? you HAVE to have a warning lamp or buzzer or it would be hopeless. -- Max Heim '66 MGB > On Jul 18, 2019, at 4:33 PM, Robert's New iPad wrote: > > We are all accustomed to our modern drivers having a buzzer or flashing light to tell us headlamps have been left on, or they automatically shut off the lights. > A small buzzer, of the sort some use to sound when turn signals are flashing, is easily rigged between headlamp switch and ignition. > Bob > > > On Jul 18, 2019, at 6:32 PM, NA Price via Mgs > wrote: > >> lol, u r all right, I fixed the symptom and the problem, just bend the bulb holder down a little, now just last week I left my headlights on, my neighbor told me about it, dead battery, jumped the battery and off I went, you can fix the symptom u can't fix stupid. I got 3 B's one I drive as a daily driver the other two are sitting in a garage, I drive those two every month or so. I always find myself doing stupid things with all three cars. Still love all three the same >> >> >> >>> On July 18, 2019 at 5:28 PM Hans Duinhoven via Mgs > wrote: >>> >>> Same as a faulty engine. Get it out en become Fred Flintstone? >>> >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> Hans >>> >>> >>> Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net ] Namens Max Heim via Mgs >>> Verzonden: donderdag 18 juli 2019 23:15 >>> Aan: MG List >>> Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Battery drain >>> >>> >>> Well, that?s fixing the symptom if not the problem? >>> >>> >>> -- >>> >>> Max Heim >>> >>> '66 MGB >>> >>> >>> On Jul 18, 2019, at 1:45 PM, NA Price via Mgs > wrote: >>> >>> >>> mine was a simple fix, my trunk light stayed when lowering the trunk lid on took the bulb out problem solved, never had a problem again >>> >>> >>> n July 18, 2019 at 4:33 PM Hans Duinhoven via Mgs > wrote: >>> >>> >>> >>> Virusvrij. www.avast.com >> >> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/1971mgb at cox.net >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Fri Jul 19 01:48:55 2019 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2019 08:48:55 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Battery drain References: <50a7d563-0bd2-8536-9646-d2240a63e157@bell.net> <006201d53da8$0bd1b330$23751990$@planet.nl> <1316048876.49018.1563482755862@myemail.cox.net> <008e01d53daf$c95f8830$5c1e9890$@planet.nl> <1659734447.53814.1563489151080@myemail.cox.net> <7C481659-7B88-4CBC-B416-DBCD023EBC10@gmail.com> <9D593E07-27E0-4570-AA8B-0787E00693B0@sonic.net> Message-ID: Easier to miss rocker switches, I fitted a warning buzzer to the V8 when it was my daily driver. More logical is to wire it between the parking light circuit and the door switch for the interior light as per 'modern' usage. Needs a series diode or you get a small reverse drain from the interior light circuit to the parking lights, and it can also be made to operate off the drivers door only. ----- Original Message ----- ? you HAVE to have a warning lamp or buzzer or it would be hopeless. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dan.dibiase at gmail.com Fri Jul 19 07:26:42 2019 From: dan.dibiase at gmail.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2019 09:26:42 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Battery drain In-Reply-To: <9D593E07-27E0-4570-AA8B-0787E00693B0@sonic.net> References: <50a7d563-0bd2-8536-9646-d2240a63e157@bell.net> <006201d53da8$0bd1b330$23751990$@planet.nl> <1316048876.49018.1563482755862@myemail.cox.net> <008e01d53daf$c95f8830$5c1e9890$@planet.nl> <1659734447.53814.1563489151080@myemail.cox.net> <7C481659-7B88-4CBC-B416-DBCD023EBC10@gmail.com> <9D593E07-27E0-4570-AA8B-0787E00693B0@sonic.net> Message-ID: Agreed, Max - and the worst is the push start-stop button. I've left it on several times when putting on the Aux power to look at the odometer, and left it on overnight. There is a chime if you are using the drivers door, but if you go in through the passenger door and hit the button to turn on the aux power, nothing. Dan D Central NJ USA http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ On Thu, Jul 18, 2019 at 8:04 PM Max Heim via Mgs wrote: > Not all of us. My newer driver is 1967. > > So my routine in the B is, whenever I park, I look at the toggle switches > to check they are all facing the same way: OFF. > > BTW that is a great user interface feature of the cars of this era (up to > the late 60s), that has been lost in modern instrument panels ? you can > tell all the switches are off at a glance. In most modern cars, every > function has a completely different interface design (push/pull/rock/twist) > in a different location ? you HAVE to have a warning lamp or buzzer or it > would be hopeless. > > > -- > Max Heim > '66 MGB > > On Jul 18, 2019, at 4:33 PM, Robert's New iPad wrote: > > We are all accustomed to our modern drivers having a buzzer or > flashing light to tell us headlamps have been left on, or they > automatically shut off the lights. > A small buzzer, of the sort some use to sound when turn signals are > flashing, is easily rigged between headlamp switch and ignition. > Bob > > > On Jul 18, 2019, at 6:32 PM, NA Price via Mgs wrote: > > lol, u r all right, I fixed the symptom and the problem, just bend the > bulb holder down a little, now just last week I left my headlights on, my > neighbor told me about it, dead battery, jumped the battery and off I went, > you can fix the symptom u can't fix stupid. I got 3 B's one I drive as a > daily driver the other two are sitting in a garage, I drive those two > every month or so. I always find myself doing stupid things with all three > cars. Still love all three the same > > > On July 18, 2019 at 5:28 PM Hans Duinhoven via Mgs > wrote: > > Same as a faulty engine. Get it out en become Fred Flintstone? > > > Cheers, > > Hans > > > *Van:* Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net ] > *Namens *Max Heim via Mgs > *Verzonden:* donderdag 18 juli 2019 23:15 > *Aan:* MG List > *Onderwerp:* Re: [Mgs] Battery drain > > > Well, that?s fixing the symptom if not the problem? > > > -- > > Max Heim > > '66 MGB > > > On Jul 18, 2019, at 1:45 PM, NA Price via Mgs wrote: > > > mine was a simple fix, my trunk light stayed when lowering the trunk lid > on took the bulb out problem solved, never had a problem again > > > n July 18, 2019 at 4:33 PM Hans Duinhoven via Mgs > wrote: > > > > > Virusvrij. > www.avast.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/1971mgb at cox.net > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mgbobh at gmail.com Thu Jul 18 17:33:58 2019 From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad) Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2019 19:33:58 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Battery drain In-Reply-To: <1659734447.53814.1563489151080@myemail.cox.net> References: <50a7d563-0bd2-8536-9646-d2240a63e157@bell.net> <006201d53da8$0bd1b330$23751990$@planet.nl> <1316048876.49018.1563482755862@myemail.cox.net> <008e01d53daf$c95f8830$5c1e9890$@planet.nl> <1659734447.53814.1563489151080@myemail.cox.net> Message-ID: <7C481659-7B88-4CBC-B416-DBCD023EBC10@gmail.com> We are all accustomed to our modern drivers having a buzzer or flashing light to tell us headlamps have been left on, or they automatically shut off the lights. A small buzzer, of the sort some use to sound when turn signals are flashing, is easily rigged between headlamp switch and ignition. Bob > On Jul 18, 2019, at 6:32 PM, NA Price via Mgs wrote: > > lol, u r all right, I fixed the symptom and the problem, just bend the bulb holder down a little, now just last week I left my headlights on, my neighbor told me about it, dead battery, jumped the battery and off I went, you can fix the symptom u can't fix stupid. I got 3 B's one I drive as a daily driver the other two are sitting in a garage, I drive those two every month or so. I always find myself doing stupid things with all three cars. Still love all three the same > > > >> On July 18, 2019 at 5:28 PM Hans Duinhoven via Mgs wrote: >> >> Same as a faulty engine. Get it out en become Fred Flintstone? >> >> >> >> Cheers, >> >> Hans >> >> >> >> Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Max Heim via Mgs >> Verzonden: donderdag 18 juli 2019 23:15 >> Aan: MG List >> Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Battery drain >> >> >> >> Well, that?s fixing the symptom if not the problem? >> >> >> >> -- >> >> Max Heim >> >> '66 MGB >> >> >> >> On Jul 18, 2019, at 1:45 PM, NA Price via Mgs wrote: >> >> >> >> mine was a simple fix, my trunk light stayed when lowering the trunk lid on took the bulb out problem solved, never had a problem again >> >> >> >> n July 18, 2019 at 4:33 PM Hans Duinhoven via Mgs wrote: >> >> >> >> >> Virusvrij. www.avast.com > > > >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/1971mgb at cox.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Fri Jul 19 09:07:40 2019 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2019 16:07:40 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Battery drain References: <50a7d563-0bd2-8536-9646-d2240a63e157@bell.net> <006201d53da8$0bd1b330$23751990$@planet.nl> <1316048876.49018.1563482755862@myemail.cox.net> <008e01d53daf$c95f8830$5c1e9890$@planet.nl> <1659734447.53814.1563489151080@myemail.cox.net> <7C481659-7B88-4CBC-B416-DBCD023EBC10@gmail.com> Message-ID: People keep saying 'headlights' - is that when you get the warning? And as soon as you stop the engine? How about auto stop/start? One assumes the warning doesn't sound then, it would be rather annoying! My modern car warns if the lights are on at all i.e. even the 'parking' lights, but only when the drivers door is opened. ----- Original Message ----- We are all accustomed to our modern drivers having a buzzer or flashing light to tell us headlamps have been left on, or they automatically shut off the lights. A small buzzer, of the sort some use to sound when turn signals are flashing, is easily rigged between headlamp switch and ignition. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dan.dibiase at gmail.com Fri Jul 19 10:02:11 2019 From: dan.dibiase at gmail.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2019 12:02:11 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Battery drain In-Reply-To: References: <50a7d563-0bd2-8536-9646-d2240a63e157@bell.net> <006201d53da8$0bd1b330$23751990$@planet.nl> <1316048876.49018.1563482755862@myemail.cox.net> <008e01d53daf$c95f8830$5c1e9890$@planet.nl> <1659734447.53814.1563489151080@myemail.cox.net> <7C481659-7B88-4CBC-B416-DBCD023EBC10@gmail.com> Message-ID: No, warning sounds only when lights are on and door is opened - but in my Mazda, that doesn't happen in the 'auto' position as they shut off after 30 seconds (or whatever you have it set for). My daughter's car as the 'auto stop'start' feature that shuts the engine off when you're stopped (i.e., at a red light). There is a light that illuminates when it shuts off. You can disable it with a switch on the dash that lights up when you push it. But it resets when you shut off the car. Dan D Central NJ USA http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ On Fri, Jul 19, 2019 at 11:21 AM PaulHunt73 via Mgs wrote: > People keep saying 'headlights' - is that when you get the warning? And > as soon as you stop the engine? How about auto stop/start? One assumes > the warning doesn't sound then, it would be rather annoying! My modern car > warns if the lights are on at all i.e. even the 'parking' lights, but only > when the drivers door is opened. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > We are all accustomed to our modern drivers having a buzzer or > flashing light to tell us headlamps have been left on, or they > automatically shut off the lights. > A small buzzer, of the sort some use to sound when turn signals are > flashing, is easily rigged between headlamp switch and ignition. > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Sat Jul 20 05:01:34 2019 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2019 13:01:34 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Battery drain In-Reply-To: <7C481659-7B88-4CBC-B416-DBCD023EBC10@gmail.com> References: <50a7d563-0bd2-8536-9646-d2240a63e157@bell.net> <006201d53da8$0bd1b330$23751990$@planet.nl> <1316048876.49018.1563482755862@myemail.cox.net> <008e01d53daf$c95f8830$5c1e9890$@planet.nl> <1659734447.53814.1563489151080@myemail.cox.net> <7C481659-7B88-4CBC-B416-DBCD023EBC10@gmail.com> Message-ID: <002901d53eea$7e72f4b0$7b58de10$@planet.nl> And? as the MG is a 1971 built type, a buzzer already is in the dash present! Cheers, Hans Van: Robert's New iPad [mailto:mgbobh at gmail.com] Verzonden: vrijdag 19 juli 2019 1:34 Aan: NA Price CC: Hans Duinhoven; Hans Duinhoven via Mgs; Max Heim Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Battery drain We are all accustomed to our modern drivers having a buzzer or flashing light to tell us headlamps have been left on, or they automatically shut off the lights. A small buzzer, of the sort some use to sound when turn signals are flashing, is easily rigged between headlamp switch and ignition. Bob On Jul 18, 2019, at 6:32 PM, NA Price via Mgs wrote: lol, u r all right, I fixed the symptom and the problem, just bend the bulb holder down a little, now just last week I left my headlights on, my neighbor told me about it, dead battery, jumped the battery and off I went, you can fix the symptom u can't fix stupid. I got 3 B's one I drive as a daily driver the other two are sitting in a garage, I drive those two every month or so. I always find myself doing stupid things with all three cars. Still love all three the same On July 18, 2019 at 5:28 PM Hans Duinhoven via Mgs wrote: Same as a faulty engine. Get it out en become Fred Flintstone? Cheers, Hans Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Max Heim via Mgs Verzonden: donderdag 18 juli 2019 23:15 Aan: MG List Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Battery drain Well, that?s fixing the symptom if not the problem? -- Max Heim '66 MGB On Jul 18, 2019, at 1:45 PM, NA Price via Mgs wrote: mine was a simple fix, my trunk light stayed when lowering the trunk lid on took the bulb out problem solved, never had a problem again n July 18, 2019 at 4:33 PM Hans Duinhoven via Mgs wrote: Afbeelding verwijderd door afzender. Virusvrij. www.avast.com _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/1971mgb at cox.net _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com --- Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: not available URL: From mgbobh at gmail.com Sat Jul 20 05:52:49 2019 From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad) Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2019 07:52:49 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Battery drain In-Reply-To: <002901d53eea$7e72f4b0$7b58de10$@planet.nl> References: <50a7d563-0bd2-8536-9646-d2240a63e157@bell.net> <006201d53da8$0bd1b330$23751990$@planet.nl> <1316048876.49018.1563482755862@myemail.cox.net> <008e01d53daf$c95f8830$5c1e9890$@planet.nl> <1659734447.53814.1563489151080@myemail.cox.net> <7C481659-7B88-4CBC-B416-DBCD023EBC10@gmail.com> <002901d53eea$7e72f4b0$7b58de10$@planet.nl> Message-ID: <54FCA32A-8D86-4D56-834A-0B5450CAB187@gmail.com> Hans, If my 1972, built in January, had a buzzer it is was removed many years ago. Were those the passenger seat belt reminder buzzers that sounded whenever a grocery sack was put onto the seat, or a dog rode passenger? Bob > On Jul 20, 2019, at 7:01 AM, Hans Duinhoven wrote: > > And? as the MG is a 1971 built type, a buzzer already is in the dash present! > > Cheers, > Hans > > Van: Robert's New iPad [mailto:mgbobh at gmail.com] > Verzonden: vrijdag 19 juli 2019 1:34 > Aan: NA Price > CC: Hans Duinhoven; Hans Duinhoven via Mgs; Max Heim > Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Battery drain > > We are all accustomed to our modern drivers having a buzzer or flashing light to tell us headlamps have been left on, or they automatically shut off the lights. > A small buzzer, of the sort some use to sound when turn signals are flashing, is easily rigged between headlamp switch and ignition. > Bob > > > On Jul 18, 2019, at 6:32 PM, NA Price via Mgs wrote: > > lol, u r all right, I fixed the symptom and the problem, just bend the bulb holder down a little, now just last week I left my headlights on, my neighbor told me about it, dead battery, jumped the battery and off I went, you can fix the symptom u can't fix stupid. I got 3 B's one I drive as a daily driver the other two are sitting in a garage, I drive those two every month or so. I always find myself doing stupid things with all three cars. Still love all three the same > > > > On July 18, 2019 at 5:28 PM Hans Duinhoven via Mgs wrote: > > Same as a faulty engine. Get it out en become Fred Flintstone? > > > > Cheers, > > Hans > > > > Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Max Heim via Mgs > Verzonden: donderdag 18 juli 2019 23:15 > Aan: MG List > Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Battery drain > > > > Well, that?s fixing the symptom if not the problem? > > > > -- > > Max Heim > > '66 MGB > > > > On Jul 18, 2019, at 1:45 PM, NA Price via Mgs wrote: > > > > mine was a simple fix, my trunk light stayed when lowering the trunk lid on took the bulb out problem solved, never had a problem again > > > > n July 18, 2019 at 4:33 PM Hans Duinhoven via Mgs wrote: > > > > > > Virusvrij. www.avast.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/1971mgb at cox.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com > > Virusvrij. www.avast.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Sat Jul 20 06:32:42 2019 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2019 14:32:42 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Battery drain In-Reply-To: <54FCA32A-8D86-4D56-834A-0B5450CAB187@gmail.com> References: <50a7d563-0bd2-8536-9646-d2240a63e157@bell.net> <006201d53da8$0bd1b330$23751990$@planet.nl> <1316048876.49018.1563482755862@myemail.cox.net> <008e01d53daf$c95f8830$5c1e9890$@planet.nl> <1659734447.53814.1563489151080@myemail.cox.net> <7C481659-7B88-4CBC-B416-DBCD023EBC10@gmail.com> <002901d53eea$7e72f4b0$7b58de10$@planet.nl> <54FCA32A-8D86-4D56-834A-0B5450CAB187@gmail.com> Message-ID: <003501d53ef7$3aa2ce10$afe86a30$@planet.nl> Yes, the sound of those buzzers is terrible. I unplugged mine, but to keep the car as original as possible, it easily can be reactivated. Cheers, Hans 71 BGT NRG WW Van: Robert's New iPad [mailto:mgbobh at gmail.com] Verzonden: zaterdag 20 juli 2019 13:53 Aan: Hans Duinhoven CC: NA Price; Hans Duinhoven via Mgs; Max Heim Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Battery drain Hans, If my 1972, built in January, had a buzzer it is was removed many years ago. Were those the passenger seat belt reminder buzzers that sounded whenever a grocery sack was put onto the seat, or a dog rode passenger? Bob On Jul 20, 2019, at 7:01 AM, Hans Duinhoven wrote: And? as the MG is a 1971 built type, a buzzer already is in the dash present! Cheers, Hans Van: Robert's New iPad [mailto:mgbobh at gmail.com] Verzonden: vrijdag 19 juli 2019 1:34 Aan: NA Price CC: Hans Duinhoven; Hans Duinhoven via Mgs; Max Heim Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Battery drain We are all accustomed to our modern drivers having a buzzer or flashing light to tell us headlamps have been left on, or they automatically shut off the lights. A small buzzer, of the sort some use to sound when turn signals are flashing, is easily rigged between headlamp switch and ignition. Bob On Jul 18, 2019, at 6:32 PM, NA Price via Mgs wrote: lol, u r all right, I fixed the symptom and the problem, just bend the bulb holder down a little, now just last week I left my headlights on, my neighbor told me about it, dead battery, jumped the battery and off I went, you can fix the symptom u can't fix stupid. I got 3 B's one I drive as a daily driver the other two are sitting in a garage, I drive those two every month or so. I always find myself doing stupid things with all three cars. Still love all three the same On July 18, 2019 at 5:28 PM Hans Duinhoven via Mgs wrote: Same as a faulty engine. Get it out en become Fred Flintstone? Cheers, Hans Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Max Heim via Mgs Verzonden: donderdag 18 juli 2019 23:15 Aan: MG List Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Battery drain Well, that?s fixing the symptom if not the problem? -- Max Heim '66 MGB On Jul 18, 2019, at 1:45 PM, NA Price via Mgs wrote: mine was a simple fix, my trunk light stayed when lowering the trunk lid on took the bulb out problem solved, never had a problem again n July 18, 2019 at 4:33 PM Hans Duinhoven via Mgs wrote: Virusvrij. www.avast.com _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/1971mgb at cox.net _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com Afbeelding verwijderd door afzender. Virusvrij. www.avast.com --- Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: not available URL: From dan.dibiase at gmail.com Sun Jul 21 11:17:15 2019 From: dan.dibiase at gmail.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2019 13:17:15 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MG Collection in Quincu IL For Sale Message-ID: >From Barnfinds..... https://tinyurl.com/y2mm5kf3 Dan D Central NJ USA http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Jul 21 11:23:03 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2019 10:23:03 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MG Collection in Quincu IL For Sale In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Wow. If only... On Sun, Jul 21, 2019, 10:18 AM Dan DiBiase via Mgs wrote: > From Barnfinds..... > > https://tinyurl.com/y2mm5kf3 > > Dan D > Central NJ USA > http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Sun Jul 21 15:15:32 2019 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2019 16:15:32 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] value questions Message-ID: <001701d54009$6eb078c0$4c116a40$@ranteer.com> I was offered at a very, very good price, a 59 mga. It has an mgb engine, mga transmission. I already have a 56 so I'm not too inclined to keep this one. Was wondering what people thought about the following: It has a single weber carb. Keep or replace with SU's and sell the weber setup It has later mgb door panels, with the door opening handle. Keep or replace as original with pull string? It has an mgb starter switch. Keep or replace with original to use pull starter? The goal is to maximize value in selling. What do you think? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Sun Jul 21 15:22:21 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2019 16:22:21 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] value questions In-Reply-To: <001701d54009$6eb078c0$4c116a40$@ranteer.com> References: <001701d54009$6eb078c0$4c116a40$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: My 2 cents: You have two (or more) options. Firstly, you can maximize your selling price, but not necessarily your net return, by restoring it to stock, including a replacement engine. Or secondly, make it run, as is, and sell it as a 'driver' or 'restoration candidate' on Bring-a-Trailer. Just don't misrepresent it - which of course you wouldn't do. Rick On Sun, Jul 21, 2019, 4:16 PM dave via Mgs wrote: > I was offered at a very, very good price, a 59 mga. It has an mgb engine, > mga transmission. > > > > I already have a 56 so I?m not too inclined to keep this one. Was > wondering what people thought about the following: > > > > It has a single weber carb. Keep or replace with SU?s and sell the weber > setup > > It has later mgb door panels, with the door opening handle. Keep or > replace as original with pull string? > > It has an mgb starter switch. Keep or replace with original to use pull > starter? > > > > The goal is to maximize value in selling. > > > > What do you think? > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richardolindsay at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Sun Jul 21 15:45:01 2019 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2019 14:45:01 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] value questions In-Reply-To: <001701d54009$6eb078c0$4c116a40$@ranteer.com> References: <001701d54009$6eb078c0$4c116a40$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: The thing to remember is, you cannot make money restoring these cars for sale. If you can get it cheap enough, then you can flip it ?as is? and make a profit. But if you don?t want it yourself, then there is really no point in investing money in it, beyond cleaning it up for appearances and making sure it runs and drives (since the premium for a driver compared to a non-runner is significant). Let the final owner go underwater on his restoration ? you don't have to be that guy. -- Max Heim '66 MGB > On Jul 21, 2019, at 2:15 PM, dave via Mgs wrote: > > I was offered at a very, very good price, a 59 mga. It has an mgb engine, mga transmission. > > I already have a 56 so I?m not too inclined to keep this one. Was wondering what people thought about the following: > > It has a single weber carb. Keep or replace with SU?s and sell the weber setup > It has later mgb door panels, with the door opening handle. Keep or replace as original with pull string? > It has an mgb starter switch. Keep or replace with original to use pull starter? > > The goal is to maximize value in selling. > > What do you think? > _______________________________________________ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dan.dibiase at gmail.com Mon Jul 22 06:07:38 2019 From: dan.dibiase at gmail.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2019 08:07:38 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] value questions In-Reply-To: <001701d54009$6eb078c0$4c116a40$@ranteer.com> References: <001701d54009$6eb078c0$4c116a40$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: I'm a Realtor in my second career, so people ask me questions like this about their home (or a potential purchase) all the time.... I find that there isn't really a 'stock' answer, it's a case-by-case response. In this case, I'd probably say do the minimum you could to return it to 'original' and then sell it. I'd probably get rid of the Weber and replace the door panels, if I could source a set of decent used ones, then sell it, if I could make somewhere between 10 - 20%. Dan D Central NJ USA http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ On Sun, Jul 21, 2019 at 5:16 PM dave via Mgs wrote: > I was offered at a very, very good price, a 59 mga. It has an mgb engine, > mga transmission. > > > > I already have a 56 so I?m not too inclined to keep this one. Was > wondering what people thought about the following: > > > > It has a single weber carb. Keep or replace with SU?s and sell the weber > setup > > It has later mgb door panels, with the door opening handle. Keep or > replace as original with pull string? > > It has an mgb starter switch. Keep or replace with original to use pull > starter? > > > > The goal is to maximize value in selling. > > > > What do you think? > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Mon Jul 22 10:28:00 2019 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2019 09:28:00 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] value questions In-Reply-To: References: <001701d54009$6eb078c0$4c116a40$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: A set of carbs is one of the more expensive things you could buy, and non-trivial to set up. I think you would be better off just making it run with the Weber and put that expense on the next guy. $1000 of new carbs will not raise the selling price $1200, so it doesn?t pencil out. That?s probably true of any money you put into it ? at best, you?d recoup 80% of the investment, when you include your time into it. Remember, you are paying full retail for any new parts, but the buyer will consider them ?used? in his pricing estimation. -- Max Heim '66 MGB > On Jul 22, 2019, at 5:07 AM, Dan DiBiase via Mgs wrote: > > I'm a Realtor in my second career, so people ask me questions like this about their home (or a potential purchase) all the time.... I find that there isn't really a 'stock' answer, it's a case-by-case response. In this case, I'd probably say do the minimum you could to return it to 'original' and then sell it. I'd probably get rid of the Weber and replace the door panels, if I could source a set of decent used ones, then sell it, if I could make somewhere between 10 - 20%. > > Dan D > Central NJ USA > http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ > > On Sun, Jul 21, 2019 at 5:16 PM dave via Mgs > wrote: > I was offered at a very, very good price, a 59 mga. It has an mgb engine, mga transmission. > > > > I already have a 56 so I?m not too inclined to keep this one. Was wondering what people thought about the following: > > > > It has a single weber carb. Keep or replace with SU?s and sell the weber setup > > It has later mgb door panels, with the door opening handle. Keep or replace as original with pull string? > > It has an mgb starter switch. Keep or replace with original to use pull starter? > > > > The goal is to maximize value in selling. > > > > What do you think? > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From barrob at bell.net Mon Jul 22 10:41:00 2019 From: barrob at bell.net (Barrie Robinson) Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2019 12:41:00 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] value questions In-Reply-To: References: <001701d54009$6eb078c0$4c116a40$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <10e6a0a1-6373-f6ca-cd14-bf40bb08be08@bell.net> I agree on Max's? advice.? I spent a fortune on building an MGB GT V8 with lots of "mods. It is spectacularly concours but the insurance appraiser chap gave it a price about 30% on what I put in to it.?? But if it is for yourself you may be cheered by the thought that had you bought a new car its value in just 1-2 years would be worse than that 30% figure.?? Having said that one has to take into account what car you are "working" on.? Some cars can gather far more of those money things than it costs to restore.?? My prediction is that MGB GTs will see a big increase in price - but then I am biased. Cheers On 7/21/2019 5:45 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: > The thing to remember is, you cannot make money restoring these cars > for sale. > > If you can get it cheap enough, then you can flip it ?as is? and make > a profit. But if you don?t want it yourself, then there is really no > point in investing money in it, beyond cleaning it up for appearances > and making sure it runs and drives (since the premium for a driver > compared to a non-runner is significant). > > Let the final owner go underwater on his restoration ? you don't have > to be that guy. > > -- > Max Heim > '66 MGB > > >> On Jul 21, 2019, at 2:15 PM, dave via Mgs > > wrote: >> >> I was offered at a very, very good price, a 59 mga.? It has an mgb >> engine, mga transmission. >> I already have a 56 so I?m not too inclined to keep this one. Was >> wondering what people thought about the following: >> It has a single weber carb.? Keep or replace with SU?s and sell the >> weber setup >> It has later mgb door panels, with the door opening handle. Keep or >> replace as original with pull string? >> It has an mgb starter switch.? Keep or replace with original to use >> pull starter? >> The goal is to maximize value in selling. >> What do you think? >> _______________________________________________ > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrob at bell.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Chairnan Signature.png Type: image/png Size: 54217 bytes Desc: not available URL: From david_breneman at yahoo.com Mon Jul 22 11:36:21 2019 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2019 17:36:21 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Mgs] Bad Fuel Question References: <773266378.5449731.1563816981900.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <773266378.5449731.1563816981900@mail.yahoo.com> I've never encountered a "bad fuel" problem before, so I'm lookingfor some confirmation (or not).? The local Mom-without-Pop store putin new pumps, and one of the things they're offering now is 92 octane (US) alcohol-free gas.? I had about a quarter tank in my MGA (w/MGB highcompression engine) so I went to fill up.? The pump with the alcohol-free gas was out of order!? So I put in three gallons of regular 92 octane, and about 1/4 mile from the station started experiencing a lotof misfiring, mostly when accelerating in 3rd and 4th.? I continueddriving like this for about 20 miles to see if it would clear up and itnever did.? I can't imagine it's anything but the fuel, but I've neverencountered "bad fuel" situation like this in 44 years of driving. The fact that it started about 1/4 mile after leaving the station seemslike pretty good evidence.? Any other possibilities?? Is there any optionother than to just burn through this half tank of gas? Thanks!? David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dan.dibiase at gmail.com Mon Jul 22 12:00:30 2019 From: dan.dibiase at gmail.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2019 14:00:30 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Bad Fuel Question In-Reply-To: <773266378.5449731.1563816981900@mail.yahoo.com> References: <773266378.5449731.1563816981900.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <773266378.5449731.1563816981900@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: It sure seems like it must be the fuel. I would probably drain as much as I could, run it in my lawnmower or snowblower..... Dan D Central NJ USA http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 1:36 PM David Breneman via Mgs wrote: > I've never encountered a "bad fuel" problem before, so I'm looking > for some confirmation (or not). The local Mom-without-Pop store put > in new pumps, and one of the things they're offering now is 92 octane (US) > alcohol-free gas. I had about a quarter tank in my MGA (w/MGB high > compression engine) so I went to fill up. The pump with the alcohol- > free gas was out of order! So I put in three gallons of regular 92 > octane, and about 1/4 mile from the station started experiencing a lot > of misfiring, mostly when accelerating in 3rd and 4th. I continued > driving like this for about 20 miles to see if it would clear up and it > never did. I can't imagine it's anything but the fuel, but I've never > encountered "bad fuel" situation like this in 44 years of driving. > > The fact that it started about 1/4 mile after leaving the station seems > like pretty good evidence. Any other possibilities? Is there any option > other than to just burn through this half tank of gas? > > Thanks! > > David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Jul 22 12:10:54 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2019 11:10:54 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Bad Fuel Question In-Reply-To: <773266378.5449731.1563816981900@mail.yahoo.com> References: <773266378.5449731.1563816981900.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <773266378.5449731.1563816981900@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: could also be a bad a condenser. Could coincidental, not causational. How old is the condenser? Even if newish, there are lots of crappy new Lucas parts out there. I had three bad ones with similar results, until replaced with a Distributor Doctor HD condenser. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 10:36 AM David Breneman via Mgs wrote: > I've never encountered a "bad fuel" problem before, so I'm looking > for some confirmation (or not). The local Mom-without-Pop store put > in new pumps, and one of the things they're offering now is 92 octane (US) > alcohol-free gas. I had about a quarter tank in my MGA (w/MGB high > compression engine) so I went to fill up. The pump with the alcohol- > free gas was out of order! So I put in three gallons of regular 92 > octane, and about 1/4 mile from the station started experiencing a lot > of misfiring, mostly when accelerating in 3rd and 4th. I continued > driving like this for about 20 miles to see if it would clear up and it > never did. I can't imagine it's anything but the fuel, but I've never > encountered "bad fuel" situation like this in 44 years of driving. > > The fact that it started about 1/4 mile after leaving the station seems > like pretty good evidence. Any other possibilities? Is there any option > other than to just burn through this half tank of gas? > > Thanks! > > David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Mon Jul 22 12:18:56 2019 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2019 11:18:56 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Bad Fuel Question In-Reply-To: References: <773266378.5449731.1563816981900.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <773266378.5449731.1563816981900@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1212B08C-5593-45F0-9FF8-7DC9B6E1398F@sonic.net> How do bad condensers cause rough running? All they do is prevent the points from burning. Oh, you are saying the points are burnt. -- Max Heim '66 MGB > On Jul 22, 2019, at 11:10 AM, i erbs via Mgs wrote: > > could also be a bad a condenser. Could coincidental, not causational. How old is the condenser? Even if newish, there are lots of crappy new Lucas parts out there. I had three bad ones with similar results, until replaced with a Distributor Doctor HD condenser. > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 10:36 AM David Breneman via Mgs > wrote: > I've never encountered a "bad fuel" problem before, so I'm looking > for some confirmation (or not). The local Mom-without-Pop store put > in new pumps, and one of the things they're offering now is 92 octane (US) > alcohol-free gas. I had about a quarter tank in my MGA (w/MGB high > compression engine) so I went to fill up. The pump with the alcohol- > free gas was out of order! So I put in three gallons of regular 92 > octane, and about 1/4 mile from the station started experiencing a lot > of misfiring, mostly when accelerating in 3rd and 4th. I continued > driving like this for about 20 miles to see if it would clear up and it > never did. I can't imagine it's anything but the fuel, but I've never > encountered "bad fuel" situation like this in 44 years of driving. > > The fact that it started about 1/4 mile after leaving the station seems > like pretty good evidence. Any other possibilities? Is there any option > other than to just burn through this half tank of gas? > > Thanks! > > David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Jul 22 12:44:10 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2019 11:44:10 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Bad Fuel Question In-Reply-To: <1212B08C-5593-45F0-9FF8-7DC9B6E1398F@sonic.net> References: <773266378.5449731.1563816981900.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <773266378.5449731.1563816981900@mail.yahoo.com> <1212B08C-5593-45F0-9FF8-7DC9B6E1398F@sonic.net> Message-ID: bad condenser caused my car to buck, cough and run rough on acceleration. Not sure about how, but Ii will confirm it ran like crap when they failed. replacing with an old stock Lucas unit, got me home until I replaced it with the HD one from the Distributor Dr. Do a google search. It's a real thing. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 11:19 AM Max Heim via Mgs wrote: > How do bad condensers cause rough running? All they do is prevent the > points from burning. Oh, you are saying the points are burnt. > > -- > Max Heim > '66 MGB > > > > On Jul 22, 2019, at 11:10 AM, i erbs via Mgs wrote: > > could also be a bad a condenser. Could coincidental, not causational. How > old is the condenser? Even if newish, there are lots of crappy new Lucas > parts out there. I had three bad ones with similar results, until replaced > with a Distributor Doctor HD condenser. > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB [image: MG] > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 10:36 AM David Breneman via Mgs < > mgs at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> I've never encountered a "bad fuel" problem before, so I'm looking >> for some confirmation (or not). The local Mom-without-Pop store put >> in new pumps, and one of the things they're offering now is 92 octane (US) >> alcohol-free gas. I had about a quarter tank in my MGA (w/MGB high >> compression engine) so I went to fill up. The pump with the alcohol- >> free gas was out of order! So I put in three gallons of regular 92 >> octane, and about 1/4 mile from the station started experiencing a lot >> of misfiring, mostly when accelerating in 3rd and 4th. I continued >> driving like this for about 20 miles to see if it would clear up and it >> never did. I can't imagine it's anything but the fuel, but I've never >> encountered "bad fuel" situation like this in 44 years of driving. >> >> The fact that it started about 1/4 mile after leaving the station seems >> like pretty good evidence. Any other possibilities? Is there any option >> other than to just burn through this half tank of gas? >> >> Thanks! >> >> David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Tue Jul 23 01:27:03 2019 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2019 08:27:03 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Bad Fuel Question References: <773266378.5449731.1563816981900.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <773266378.5449731.1563816981900@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <41FC78824FAD4C10916D5AE20B04A2E8@paul> "Even if newish" The newer the condenser the more likely they are to fail, if it's been in years it's probably fine, I've never had one fail in 50-odd years. The condenser doesn't just reduce points burning, that's just a side-effect. It's primary purpose is to boost the spark at the plug by setting up a high frequency oscillation with the coil to generate multiple sparks at the correct time. Without it plug firing is greatly reduced and retarded. Have a look in the back of the Leyland Workshop manual, I assume Bentley is the same. Having just had the pumps changed anything could have happened, take the lids off the float chambers and see if there is any muck in there. Before messing with anything else run the float chambers out (fuel pump electrics disconnected) and jury-rig a container with some fresh fuel. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- could also be a bad a condenser. Could coincidental, not causational. How old is the condenser? Even if newish, ... -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Charley38 at twc.com Tue Jul 23 07:56:49 2019 From: Charley38 at twc.com (Charley Robinson) Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2019 08:56:49 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Bad Fuel Question In-Reply-To: <1212B08C-5593-45F0-9FF8-7DC9B6E1398F@sonic.net> References: <773266378.5449731.1563816981900.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <773266378.5449731.1563816981900@mail.yahoo.com> <1212B08C-5593-45F0-9FF8-7DC9B6E1398F@sonic.net> Message-ID: <6f61f714-0475-486a-37f9-acb9a0864ab5@twc.com> Not true, Max.? When the points open, the condenser discharges through the coil in order to perpetuate the spark.? Without the condenser the engine may not even start.? Try it some time. :-) CR On 7/22/2019 1:18 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: > How do bad condensers cause rough running? All they do is prevent the > points from burning. Oh, you are saying the points are burnt. > > -- > Max Heim > '66 MGB > > > >> On Jul 22, 2019, at 11:10 AM, i erbs via Mgs > > wrote: >> >> could also be a bad a condenser. Could coincidental, not causational. >> How old is the condenser? Even if newish, there are lots of crappy >> new Lucas parts out there. I had three bad ones with similar results, >> until replaced with? a Distributor Doctor HD condenser. >> Ira Erbs >> Portland,OR >> ? _______ ? ?_______ >> ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >> (_________________________) >> BT7 engine and disk brakes >> >> >> 1967 MGB MG >> >> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti >> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words >> >> >> On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 10:36 AM David Breneman via Mgs >> > wrote: >> >> I've never encountered a "bad fuel" problem before, so I'm looking >> for some confirmation (or not).? The local Mom-without-Pop store put >> in new pumps, and one of the things they're offering now is 92 >> octane (US) >> alcohol-free gas.? I had about a quarter tank in my MGA (w/MGB high >> compression engine) so I went to fill up.? The pump with the alcohol- >> free gas was out of order!? So I put in three gallons of regular 92 >> octane, and about 1/4 mile from the station started experiencing >> a lot >> of misfiring, mostly when accelerating in 3rd and 4th.? I continued >> driving like this for about 20 miles to see if it would clear up >> and it >> never did.? I can't imagine it's anything but the fuel, but I've >> never >> encountered "bad fuel" situation like this in 44 years of driving. >> >> The fact that it started about 1/4 mile after leaving the station >> seems >> like pretty good evidence.? Any other possibilities?? Is there >> any option >> other than to just burn through this half tank of gas? >> >> Thanks! >> >> David Brenemandavid_breneman at yahoo.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 >> >> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgshttp://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 >> >> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgshttp://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ddarby at centurytel.net Tue Jul 23 09:03:43 2019 From: ddarby at centurytel.net (David F. Darby) Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2019 10:03:43 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Bad Fuel Question In-Reply-To: <6f61f714-0475-486a-37f9-acb9a0864ab5@twc.com> References: <773266378.5449731.1563816981900.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <773266378.5449731.1563816981900@mail.yahoo.com> <1212B08C-5593-45F0-9FF8-7DC9B6E1398F@sonic.net> <6f61f714-0475-486a-37f9-acb9a0864ab5@twc.com> Message-ID: <008e01d54167$d2889120$7799b360$@centurytel.net> A failed condenser stopped my MGB on the highway once. David On 7/22/2019 1:18 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: How do bad condensers cause rough running? All they do is prevent the points from burning. Oh, you are saying the points are burnt. -- Max Heim '66 MGB On Jul 22, 2019, at 11:10 AM, i erbs via Mgs wrote: could also be a bad a condenser. Could coincidental, not causational. How old is the condenser? Even if newish, there are lots of crappy new Lucas parts out there. I had three bad ones with similar results, until replaced with a Distributor Doctor HD condenser. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 10:36 AM David Breneman via Mgs wrote: I've never encountered a "bad fuel" problem before, so I'm looking for some confirmation (or not). The local Mom-without-Pop store put in new pumps, and one of the things they're offering now is 92 octane (US) alcohol-free gas. I had about a quarter tank in my MGA (w/MGB high compression engine) so I went to fill up. The pump with the alcohol- free gas was out of order! So I put in three gallons of regular 92 octane, and about 1/4 mile from the station started experiencing a lot of misfiring, mostly when accelerating in 3rd and 4th. I continued driving like this for about 20 miles to see if it would clear up and it never did. I can't imagine it's anything but the fuel, but I've never encountered "bad fuel" situation like this in 44 years of driving. The fact that it started about 1/4 mile after leaving the station seems like pretty good evidence. Any other possibilities? Is there any option other than to just burn through this half tank of gas? Thanks! David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Charley38 at twc.com Tue Jul 23 09:44:47 2019 From: Charley38 at twc.com (Charley Robinson) Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2019 10:44:47 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Bad Fuel Question In-Reply-To: <008e01d54167$d2889120$7799b360$@centurytel.net> References: <773266378.5449731.1563816981900.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <773266378.5449731.1563816981900@mail.yahoo.com> <1212B08C-5593-45F0-9FF8-7DC9B6E1398F@sonic.net> <6f61f714-0475-486a-37f9-acb9a0864ab5@twc.com> <008e01d54167$d2889120$7799b360$@centurytel.net> Message-ID: I carry a condenser, points & rotor in my emergency kit.? If I ever get around to rebuilding the stock fuel pump that I recently replaced, I'll carry it also. CR On 7/23/2019 10:03 AM, David F. Darby via Mgs wrote: > > A failed condenser stopped my MGB on the highway once. > > David > > On 7/22/2019 1:18 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: > > How do bad condensers cause rough running? All they do is prevent > the points from burning. Oh, you are saying the points are burnt. > > -- > > Max Heim > > '66 MGB > > On Jul 22, 2019, at 11:10 AM, i erbs via Mgs > > wrote: > > could also be a bad a condenser. Could coincidental, not > causational. How old is the condenser? Even if newish, there > are lots of crappy new Lucas parts out there. I had three bad > ones with similar results, until replaced with? a Distributor > Doctor HD condenser. > > Ira Erbs > > Portland,OR > > ? ? ? _______ ?_______ > ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > > ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes > > 1967 MGB > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario > Andretti > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 10:36 AM David Breneman via Mgs > > wrote: > > I've never encountered a "bad fuel" problem before, so I'm > looking > > for some confirmation (or not).? The local Mom-without-Pop > store put > > in new pumps, and one of the things they're offering now > is 92 octane (US) > > alcohol-free gas.? I had about a quarter tank in my MGA > (w/MGB high > > compression engine) so I went to fill up.? The pump with > the alcohol- > > free gas was out of order!? So I put in three gallons of > regular 92 > > octane, and about 1/4 mile from the station started > experiencing a lot > > of misfiring, mostly when accelerating in 3rd and 4th.? I > continued > > driving like this for about 20 miles to see if it would > clear up and it > > never did.? I can't imagine it's anything but the fuel, > but I've never > > encountered "bad fuel" situation like this in 44 years of > driving. > > The fact that it started about 1/4 mile after leaving the > station seems > > like pretty good evidence.? Any other possibilities?? Is > there any option > > other than to just burn through this half tank of gas? > > Thanks! > > David Brenemandavid_breneman at yahoo.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Tue Jul 23 10:03:08 2019 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2019 09:03:08 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Bad Fuel Question In-Reply-To: <7c65e28c-2116-aa7f-484a-69acb1ee3ddc@twc.com> References: <773266378.5449731.1563816981900.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <773266378.5449731.1563816981900@mail.yahoo.com> <1212B08C-5593-45F0-9FF8-7DC9B6E1398F@sonic.net> <7c65e28c-2116-aa7f-484a-69acb1ee3ddc@twc.com> Message-ID: I understand how it could make the car inoperable. I don?t see an explanation for an intermediate state. -- Max Heim mvheim at sonic.net > On Jul 23, 2019, at 6:53 AM, Charley Robinson wrote: > > Not true, Max. When the points open, the condenser discharges through the coil in order to perpetuate the spark. Without the condenser the engine may not even start. Try it some time. :-) > > CR > > On 7/22/2019 1:18 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: >> How do bad condensers cause rough running? All they do is prevent the points from burning. Oh, you are saying the points are burnt. >> >> -- >> Max Heim >> '66 MGB >> >> >> >>> On Jul 22, 2019, at 11:10 AM, i erbs via Mgs > wrote: >>> >>> could also be a bad a condenser. Could coincidental, not causational. How old is the condenser? Even if newish, there are lots of crappy new Lucas parts out there. I had three bad ones with similar results, until replaced with a Distributor Doctor HD condenser. >>> Ira Erbs >>> Portland,OR >>> _______ _______ >>> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >>> (_________________________) >>> BT7 engine and disk brakes >>> >>> >>> 1967 MGB >>> >>> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti >>> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words >>> >>> >>> On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 10:36 AM David Breneman via Mgs > wrote: >>> I've never encountered a "bad fuel" problem before, so I'm looking >>> for some confirmation (or not). The local Mom-without-Pop store put >>> in new pumps, and one of the things they're offering now is 92 octane (US) >>> alcohol-free gas. I had about a quarter tank in my MGA (w/MGB high >>> compression engine) so I went to fill up. The pump with the alcohol- >>> free gas was out of order! So I put in three gallons of regular 92 >>> octane, and about 1/4 mile from the station started experiencing a lot >>> of misfiring, mostly when accelerating in 3rd and 4th. I continued >>> driving like this for about 20 miles to see if it would clear up and it >>> never did. I can't imagine it's anything but the fuel, but I've never >>> encountered "bad fuel" situation like this in 44 years of driving. >>> >>> The fact that it started about 1/4 mile after leaving the station seems >>> like pretty good evidence. Any other possibilities? Is there any option >>> other than to just burn through this half tank of gas? >>> >>> Thanks! >>> >>> David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Charley38 at twc.com Tue Jul 23 10:15:51 2019 From: Charley38 at twc.com (Charley Robinson) Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2019 11:15:51 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Bad Fuel Question In-Reply-To: References: <773266378.5449731.1563816981900.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <773266378.5449731.1563816981900@mail.yahoo.com> <1212B08C-5593-45F0-9FF8-7DC9B6E1398F@sonic.net> <7c65e28c-2116-aa7f-484a-69acb1ee3ddc@twc.com> Message-ID: <02f74785-8ced-6e5c-5740-0a19b52a88a8@twc.com> What do you mean by "intermediate state"? CR On 7/23/2019 11:03 AM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: > I understand how it could make the car inoperable. I don?t see an > explanation for an intermediate state. > > -- > Max Heim > mvheim at sonic.net > > > >> On Jul 23, 2019, at 6:53 AM, Charley Robinson > > wrote: >> >> Not true, Max.? When the points open, the condenser discharges >> through the coil in order to perpetuate the spark. Without the >> condenser the engine may not even start. Try it some time. :-) >> >> CR >> >> On 7/22/2019 1:18 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: >>> How do bad condensers cause rough running? All they do is prevent >>> the points from burning. Oh, you are saying the points are burnt. >>> >>> -- >>> Max Heim >>> '66 MGB >>> >>> >>> >>>> On Jul 22, 2019, at 11:10 AM, i erbs via Mgs >>> > wrote: >>>> >>>> could also be a bad a condenser. Could coincidental, not >>>> causational. How old is the condenser? Even if newish, there are >>>> lots of crappy new Lucas parts out there. I had three bad ones with >>>> similar results, until replaced with? a Distributor Doctor HD >>>> condenser. >>>> Ira Erbs >>>> Portland,OR >>>> ? ? ? _______ ? ?_______ >>>> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >>>> (_________________________) >>>> ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes >>>> >>>> >>>> 1967 MGB MG >>>> >>>> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti >>>> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words >>>> >>>> >>>> On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 10:36 AM David Breneman via Mgs >>>> > wrote: >>>> >>>> I've never encountered a "bad fuel" problem before, so I'm looking >>>> for some confirmation (or not).? The local Mom-without-Pop >>>> store put >>>> in new pumps, and one of the things they're offering now is 92 >>>> octane (US) >>>> alcohol-free gas.? I had about a quarter tank in my MGA (w/MGB high >>>> compression engine) so I went to fill up.? The pump with the >>>> alcohol- >>>> free gas was out of order!? So I put in three gallons of regular 92 >>>> octane, and about 1/4 mile from the station started >>>> experiencing a lot >>>> of misfiring, mostly when accelerating in 3rd and 4th.? I continued >>>> driving like this for about 20 miles to see if it would clear >>>> up and it >>>> never did.? I can't imagine it's anything but the fuel, but >>>> I've never >>>> encountered "bad fuel" situation like this in 44 years of driving. >>>> >>>> The fact that it started about 1/4 mile after leaving the >>>> station seems >>>> like pretty good evidence.? Any other possibilities?? Is there >>>> any option >>>> other than to just burn through this half tank of gas? >>>> >>>> Thanks! >>>> >>>> David Brenemandavid_breneman at yahoo.com >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> >>>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>>> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 >>>> >>>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgshttp://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> >>>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>>> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 >>>> >>>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgshttp://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com >> > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Tue Jul 23 10:45:25 2019 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2019 09:45:25 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Bad Fuel Question In-Reply-To: <02f74785-8ced-6e5c-5740-0a19b52a88a8@twc.com> References: <773266378.5449731.1563816981900.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <773266378.5449731.1563816981900@mail.yahoo.com> <1212B08C-5593-45F0-9FF8-7DC9B6E1398F@sonic.net> <7c65e28c-2116-aa7f-484a-69acb1ee3ddc@twc.com> <02f74785-8ced-6e5c-5740-0a19b52a88a8@twc.com> Message-ID: <89BC6182-B309-4DAA-99D0-9CC23681002A@sonic.net> Rough running, which was the stated symptom, as opposed to ?not running?. -- Max Heim '66 MGB > On Jul 23, 2019, at 9:15 AM, Charley Robinson wrote: > > What do you mean by "intermediate state"? > > CR > > On 7/23/2019 11:03 AM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: >> I understand how it could make the car inoperable. I don?t see an explanation for an intermediate state. >> >> -- >> Max Heim >> mvheim at sonic.net >> >> >> >>> On Jul 23, 2019, at 6:53 AM, Charley Robinson > wrote: >>> >>> Not true, Max. When the points open, the condenser discharges through the coil in order to perpetuate the spark. Without the condenser the engine may not even start. Try it some time. :-) >>> >>> CR >>> >>> On 7/22/2019 1:18 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: >>>> How do bad condensers cause rough running? All they do is prevent the points from burning. Oh, you are saying the points are burnt. >>>> >>>> -- >>>> Max Heim >>>> '66 MGB >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>> On Jul 22, 2019, at 11:10 AM, i erbs via Mgs > wrote: >>>>> >>>>> could also be a bad a condenser. Could coincidental, not causational. How old is the condenser? Even if newish, there are lots of crappy new Lucas parts out there. I had three bad ones with similar results, until replaced with a Distributor Doctor HD condenser. >>>>> Ira Erbs >>>>> Portland,OR >>>>> _______ _______ >>>>> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >>>>> (_________________________) >>>>> BT7 engine and disk brakes >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> 1967 MGB >>>>> >>>>> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti >>>>> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 10:36 AM David Breneman via Mgs > wrote: >>>>> I've never encountered a "bad fuel" problem before, so I'm looking >>>>> for some confirmation (or not). The local Mom-without-Pop store put >>>>> in new pumps, and one of the things they're offering now is 92 octane (US) >>>>> alcohol-free gas. I had about a quarter tank in my MGA (w/MGB high >>>>> compression engine) so I went to fill up. The pump with the alcohol- >>>>> free gas was out of order! So I put in three gallons of regular 92 >>>>> octane, and about 1/4 mile from the station started experiencing a lot >>>>> of misfiring, mostly when accelerating in 3rd and 4th. I continued >>>>> driving like this for about 20 miles to see if it would clear up and it >>>>> never did. I can't imagine it's anything but the fuel, but I've never >>>>> encountered "bad fuel" situation like this in 44 years of driving. >>>>> >>>>> The fact that it started about 1/4 mile after leaving the station seems >>>>> like pretty good evidence. Any other possibilities? Is there any option >>>>> other than to just burn through this half tank of gas? >>>>> >>>>> Thanks! >>>>> >>>>> David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ >>>>> >>>>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>>> >>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >>>>> >>>>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> >>>>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>>> >>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >>>>> >>>>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> >>>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>> >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com >>> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Jul 23 11:14:48 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2019 10:14:48 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Bad Fuel Question In-Reply-To: <89BC6182-B309-4DAA-99D0-9CC23681002A@sonic.net> References: <773266378.5449731.1563816981900.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <773266378.5449731.1563816981900@mail.yahoo.com> <1212B08C-5593-45F0-9FF8-7DC9B6E1398F@sonic.net> <7c65e28c-2116-aa7f-484a-69acb1ee3ddc@twc.com> <02f74785-8ced-6e5c-5740-0a19b52a88a8@twc.com> <89BC6182-B309-4DAA-99D0-9CC23681002A@sonic.net> Message-ID: My car ran rough, backfired and coughed under load, but did ok at low speeds. Replaced the condenser , ran fine for a few hundred miles, then failed again. Both were new Lucas units. Put in an old stock one, car ran fine until I replace with HD condenser. On Tue, Jul 23, 2019, 9:45 AM Max Heim via Mgs wrote: > Rough running, which was the stated symptom, as opposed to ?not running?. > > -- > Max Heim > '66 MGB > > On Jul 23, 2019, at 9:15 AM, Charley Robinson wrote: > > What do you mean by "intermediate state"? > > CR > > On 7/23/2019 11:03 AM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: > > I understand how it could make the car inoperable. I don?t see an > explanation for an intermediate state. > > -- > Max Heim > mvheim at sonic.net > > > > On Jul 23, 2019, at 6:53 AM, Charley Robinson wrote: > > Not true, Max. When the points open, the condenser discharges through the > coil in order to perpetuate the spark. Without the condenser the engine > may not even start. Try it some time. :-) > > CR > > On 7/22/2019 1:18 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: > > How do bad condensers cause rough running? All they do is prevent the > points from burning. Oh, you are saying the points are burnt. > > -- > Max Heim > '66 MGB > > > > On Jul 22, 2019, at 11:10 AM, i erbs via Mgs wrote: > > could also be a bad a condenser. Could coincidental, not causational. How > old is the condenser? Even if newish, there are lots of crappy new Lucas > parts out there. I had three bad ones with similar results, until replaced > with a Distributor Doctor HD condenser. > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB [image: MG] > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 10:36 AM David Breneman via Mgs < > mgs at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> I've never encountered a "bad fuel" problem before, so I'm looking >> for some confirmation (or not). The local Mom-without-Pop store put >> in new pumps, and one of the things they're offering now is 92 octane (US) >> alcohol-free gas. I had about a quarter tank in my MGA (w/MGB high >> compression engine) so I went to fill up. The pump with the alcohol- >> free gas was out of order! So I put in three gallons of regular 92 >> octane, and about 1/4 mile from the station started experiencing a lot >> of misfiring, mostly when accelerating in 3rd and 4th. I continued >> driving like this for about 20 miles to see if it would clear up and it >> never did. I can't imagine it's anything but the fuel, but I've never >> encountered "bad fuel" situation like this in 44 years of driving. >> >> The fact that it started about 1/4 mile after leaving the station seems >> like pretty good evidence. Any other possibilities? Is there any option >> other than to just burn through this half tank of gas? >> >> Thanks! >> >> David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ddarby at centurytel.net Tue Jul 23 11:34:27 2019 From: ddarby at centurytel.net (David F. Darby) Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2019 12:34:27 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Bad Fuel Question In-Reply-To: References: <773266378.5449731.1563816981900.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <773266378.5449731.1563816981900@mail.yahoo.com> <1212B08C-5593-45F0-9FF8-7DC9B6E1398F@sonic.net> <6f61f714-0475-486a-37f9-acb9a0864ab5@twc.com> <008e01d54167$d2889120$7799b360$@centurytel.net> Message-ID: <00fd01d5417c$e125d200$a3717600$@centurytel.net> When this happened I had a complete kit of ignition parts with me EXCEPT a condenser. DFD From: Charley Robinson [mailto:Charley38 at twc.com] Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2019 10:45 AM To: David F. Darby; mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] Bad Fuel Question I carry a condenser, points & rotor in my emergency kit. If I ever get around to rebuilding the stock fuel pump that I recently replaced, I'll carry it also. CR On 7/23/2019 10:03 AM, David F. Darby via Mgs wrote: A failed condenser stopped my MGB on the highway once. David On 7/22/2019 1:18 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: How do bad condensers cause rough running? All they do is prevent the points from burning. Oh, you are saying the points are burnt. -- Max Heim '66 MGB On Jul 22, 2019, at 11:10 AM, i erbs via Mgs wrote: could also be a bad a condenser. Could coincidental, not causational. How old is the condenser? Even if newish, there are lots of crappy new Lucas parts out there. I had three bad ones with similar results, until replaced with a Distributor Doctor HD condenser. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 10:36 AM David Breneman via Mgs wrote: I've never encountered a "bad fuel" problem before, so I'm looking for some confirmation (or not). The local Mom-without-Pop store put in new pumps, and one of the things they're offering now is 92 octane (US) alcohol-free gas. I had about a quarter tank in my MGA (w/MGB high compression engine) so I went to fill up. The pump with the alcohol- free gas was out of order! So I put in three gallons of regular 92 octane, and about 1/4 mile from the station started experiencing a lot of misfiring, mostly when accelerating in 3rd and 4th. I continued driving like this for about 20 miles to see if it would clear up and it never did. I can't imagine it's anything but the fuel, but I've never encountered "bad fuel" situation like this in 44 years of driving. The fact that it started about 1/4 mile after leaving the station seems like pretty good evidence. Any other possibilities? Is there any option other than to just burn through this half tank of gas? Thanks! David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Tue Jul 23 12:39:23 2019 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2019 11:39:23 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Bad Fuel Question In-Reply-To: References: <773266378.5449731.1563816981900.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <773266378.5449731.1563816981900@mail.yahoo.com> <1212B08C-5593-45F0-9FF8-7DC9B6E1398F@sonic.net> <7c65e28c-2116-aa7f-484a-69acb1ee3ddc@twc.com> Message-ID: Condencers can fail in two ways, open and closed. If they fail closed (shorted), you are not going anywhere, but if they fail open (infinite capacitance), much of the energy in the spark can be lost through arcing across the points, leading to rough running. Simon On Tue, Jul 23, 2019, 9:03 AM Max Heim via Mgs wrote: > I understand how it could make the car inoperable. I don?t see an > explanation for an intermediate state. > > -- > Max Heim > mvheim at sonic.net > > > > On Jul 23, 2019, at 6:53 AM, Charley Robinson wrote: > > Not true, Max. When the points open, the condenser discharges through the > coil in order to perpetuate the spark. Without the condenser the engine > may not even start. Try it some time. :-) > > CR > > On 7/22/2019 1:18 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: > > How do bad condensers cause rough running? All they do is prevent the > points from burning. Oh, you are saying the points are burnt. > > -- > Max Heim > '66 MGB > > > > On Jul 22, 2019, at 11:10 AM, i erbs via Mgs wrote: > > could also be a bad a condenser. Could coincidental, not causational. How > old is the condenser? Even if newish, there are lots of crappy new Lucas > parts out there. I had three bad ones with similar results, until replaced > with a Distributor Doctor HD condenser. > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB [image: MG] > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 10:36 AM David Breneman via Mgs < > mgs at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> I've never encountered a "bad fuel" problem before, so I'm looking >> for some confirmation (or not). The local Mom-without-Pop store put >> in new pumps, and one of the things they're offering now is 92 octane (US) >> alcohol-free gas. I had about a quarter tank in my MGA (w/MGB high >> compression engine) so I went to fill up. The pump with the alcohol- >> free gas was out of order! So I put in three gallons of regular 92 >> octane, and about 1/4 mile from the station started experiencing a lot >> of misfiring, mostly when accelerating in 3rd and 4th. I continued >> driving like this for about 20 miles to see if it would clear up and it >> never did. I can't imagine it's anything but the fuel, but I've never >> encountered "bad fuel" situation like this in 44 years of driving. >> >> The fact that it started about 1/4 mile after leaving the station seems >> like pretty good evidence. Any other possibilities? Is there any option >> other than to just burn through this half tank of gas? >> >> Thanks! >> >> David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/simon.d.matthews at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ddarby at centurytel.net Tue Jul 23 14:18:31 2019 From: ddarby at centurytel.net (David F. Darby) Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2019 15:18:31 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Bad Fuel Question In-Reply-To: References: <773266378.5449731.1563816981900.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <773266378.5449731.1563816981900@mail.yahoo.com> <1212B08C-5593-45F0-9FF8-7DC9B6E1398F@sonic.net> <7c65e28c-2116-aa7f-484a-69acb1ee3ddc@twc.com> Message-ID: <011101d54193$ccbf3a60$663daf20$@centurytel.net> Thanks, Simon. That?s good to know. DFD From: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Matthews via Mgs Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2019 1:39 PM To: Max Heim Cc: MGS Subject: Re: [Mgs] Bad Fuel Question Condencers can fail in two ways, open and closed. If they fail closed (shorted), you are not going anywhere, but if they fail open (infinite capacitance), much of the energy in the spark can be lost through arcing across the points, leading to rough running. Simon On Tue, Jul 23, 2019, 9:03 AM Max Heim via Mgs wrote: I understand how it could make the car inoperable. I don?t see an explanation for an intermediate state. -- Max Heim mvheim at sonic.net On Jul 23, 2019, at 6:53 AM, Charley Robinson wrote: Not true, Max. When the points open, the condenser discharges through the coil in order to perpetuate the spark. Without the condenser the engine may not even start. Try it some time. :-) CR On 7/22/2019 1:18 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: How do bad condensers cause rough running? All they do is prevent the points from burning. Oh, you are saying the points are burnt. -- Max Heim '66 MGB On Jul 22, 2019, at 11:10 AM, i erbs via Mgs wrote: could also be a bad a condenser. Could coincidental, not causational. How old is the condenser? Even if newish, there are lots of crappy new Lucas parts out there. I had three bad ones with similar results, until replaced with a Distributor Doctor HD condenser. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB Description: Image removed by sender. MG A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 10:36 AM David Breneman via Mgs wrote: I've never encountered a "bad fuel" problem before, so I'm looking for some confirmation (or not). The local Mom-without-Pop store put in new pumps, and one of the things they're offering now is 92 octane (US) alcohol-free gas. I had about a quarter tank in my MGA (w/MGB high compression engine) so I went to fill up. The pump with the alcohol- free gas was out of order! So I put in three gallons of regular 92 octane, and about 1/4 mile from the station started experiencing a lot of misfiring, mostly when accelerating in 3rd and 4th. I continued driving like this for about 20 miles to see if it would clear up and it never did. I can't imagine it's anything but the fuel, but I've never encountered "bad fuel" situation like this in 44 years of driving. The fact that it started about 1/4 mile after leaving the station seems like pretty good evidence. Any other possibilities? Is there any option other than to just burn through this half tank of gas? Thanks! David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/simon.d.matthews at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: ~WRD000.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 823 bytes Desc: not available URL: From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Tue Jul 23 14:39:19 2019 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2019 13:39:19 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Bad Fuel Question In-Reply-To: <011101d54193$ccbf3a60$663daf20$@centurytel.net> References: <773266378.5449731.1563816981900.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <773266378.5449731.1563816981900@mail.yahoo.com> <1212B08C-5593-45F0-9FF8-7DC9B6E1398F@sonic.net> <7c65e28c-2116-aa7f-484a-69acb1ee3ddc@twc.com> <011101d54193$ccbf3a60$663daf20$@centurytel.net> Message-ID: Quick correction, I should have written zero capacitance, not infinite. On Tue, Jul 23, 2019, 1:18 PM David F. Darby via Mgs wrote: > Thanks, Simon. That?s good to know. > > > > DFD > > > > *From:* Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Simon > Matthews via Mgs > *Sent:* Tuesday, July 23, 2019 1:39 PM > *To:* Max Heim > *Cc:* MGS > *Subject:* Re: [Mgs] Bad Fuel Question > > > > Condencers can fail in two ways, open and closed. If they fail closed > (shorted), you are not going anywhere, but if they fail open (infinite > capacitance), much of the energy in the spark can be lost through arcing > across the points, leading to rough running. > > > > Simon > > > > On Tue, Jul 23, 2019, 9:03 AM Max Heim via Mgs wrote: > > I understand how it could make the car inoperable. I don?t see an > explanation for an intermediate state. > > > > -- > > Max Heim > > mvheim at sonic.net > > > > > > > > On Jul 23, 2019, at 6:53 AM, Charley Robinson wrote: > > > > Not true, Max. When the points open, the condenser discharges through the > coil in order to perpetuate the spark. Without the condenser the engine > may not even start. Try it some time. :-) > > CR > > On 7/22/2019 1:18 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: > > How do bad condensers cause rough running? All they do is prevent the > points from burning. Oh, you are saying the points are burnt. > > > > -- > > Max Heim > > '66 MGB > > > > > > > > On Jul 22, 2019, at 11:10 AM, i erbs via Mgs wrote: > > > > could also be a bad a condenser. Could coincidental, not causational. How > old is the condenser? Even if newish, there are lots of crappy new Lucas > parts out there. I had three bad ones with similar results, until replaced > with a Distributor Doctor HD condenser. > > Ira Erbs > > Portland,OR > > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > > > > 1967 MGB [image: Description: Image removed by sender. MG] > > > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > > > > On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 10:36 AM David Breneman via Mgs < > mgs at autox.team.net> wrote: > > I've never encountered a "bad fuel" problem before, so I'm looking > > for some confirmation (or not). The local Mom-without-Pop store put > > in new pumps, and one of the things they're offering now is 92 octane (US) > > alcohol-free gas. I had about a quarter tank in my MGA (w/MGB high > > compression engine) so I went to fill up. The pump with the alcohol- > > free gas was out of order! So I put in three gallons of regular 92 > > octane, and about 1/4 mile from the station started experiencing a lot > > of misfiring, mostly when accelerating in 3rd and 4th. I continued > > driving like this for about 20 miles to see if it would clear up and it > > never did. I can't imagine it's anything but the fuel, but I've never > > encountered "bad fuel" situation like this in 44 years of driving. > > > > The fact that it started about 1/4 mile after leaving the station seems > > like pretty good evidence. Any other possibilities? Is there any option > > other than to just burn through this half tank of gas? > > > > Thanks! > > > > David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/simon.d.matthews at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/simon.d.matthews at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: ~WRD000.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 823 bytes Desc: not available URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Wed Jul 24 01:34:00 2019 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2019 08:34:00 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Bad Fuel Question References: <773266378.5449731.1563816981900.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <773266378.5449731.1563816981900@mail.yahoo.com> <1212B08C-5593-45F0-9FF8-7DC9B6E1398F@sonic.net> <6f61f714-0475-486a-37f9-acb9a0864ab5@twc.com> Message-ID: Not quite right. With the points closed the condenser is discharged as it is connected across the points. When they open it charges up, as the coil is discharging. The current/voltage characteristic of a condenser (aka capacitor) is 90 degrees out of phase with an inductor i.e. the coil. This makes it a tuned circuit as in a radio, and an oscillation is set up, which increases the HT amplitude and its duration. That's why an engine will always run badly without a condenser, and may not even run at all, depending on several other factors. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Not true, Max. When the points open, the condenser discharges through the coil in order to perpetuate the spark. Without the condenser the engine may not even start. Try it some time. :-) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Charley38 at twc.com Wed Jul 24 05:24:18 2019 From: Charley38 at twc.com (Charley Robinson) Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2019 06:24:18 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Bad Fuel Question In-Reply-To: References: <773266378.5449731.1563816981900.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <773266378.5449731.1563816981900@mail.yahoo.com> <1212B08C-5593-45F0-9FF8-7DC9B6E1398F@sonic.net> <6f61f714-0475-486a-37f9-acb9a0864ab5@twc.com> Message-ID: <80d9507b-bbd4-06f1-305f-c8cc82f1b929@twc.com> OK and you left out that it's the back EMF from the coil, which is much more than 12 volts, that charges the condenser and so on as you describe in a series resonant circuit.?? My bad, I tried to keep it simple. Anyway you look at it a leaky (partial short) or open condenser degrades the spark and results in rough running.? A fully shorted condenser means there will be no spark at all since that's the same as the points not opening. CR On 7/24/2019 2:34 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs wrote: > Not quite right.? With the points closed the condenser is discharged > as it is connected across the points. When they open it charges up, as > the coil is discharging.? The current/voltage characteristic of a > condenser (aka capacitor)?is 90 degrees out of phase with an inductor > i.e. the coil.? This makes it a tuned circuit as in a radio, and an > oscillation is set up, which increases?the HT amplitude and its > duration.?? That's why an engine will always run badly without a > condenser, and?may not even run at all, depending on several other > factors. > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > Not true, Max.? When the points open, the condenser discharges > through the coil in order to perpetuate the spark.? Without the > condenser the engine may not even start.? Try it some time. :-) > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Thu Jul 25 11:23:06 2019 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2019 19:23:06 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Bad Fuel Question In-Reply-To: References: <773266378.5449731.1563816981900.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <773266378.5449731.1563816981900@mail.yahoo.com> <1212B08C-5593-45F0-9FF8-7DC9B6E1398F@sonic.net> <7c65e28c-2116-aa7f-484a-69acb1ee3ddc@twc.com> <02f74785-8ced-6e5c-5740-0a19b52a88a8@twc.com> <89BC6182-B309-4DAA-99D0-9CC23681002A@sonic.net> Message-ID: <009e01d5430d$9f5807c0$de081740$@planet.nl> I regularly wear a t-shirt with the text Lucas ? King of Darkness? Cheers, Hans 71 BGT NRG WW ? kept in the garage as temps are at 37+ C overhere now? It never was so hot in the Netherlands. Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens i erbs via Mgs Verzonden: dinsdag 23 juli 2019 19:15 Aan: Max Heim CC: mglist Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Bad Fuel Question My car ran rough, backfired and coughed under load, but did ok at low speeds. Replaced the condenser , ran fine for a few hundred miles, then failed again. Both were new Lucas units. Put in an old stock one, car ran fine until I replace with HD condenser. On Tue, Jul 23, 2019, 9:45 AM Max Heim via Mgs wrote: Rough running, which was the stated symptom, as opposed to ?not running?. -- Max Heim '66 MGB On Jul 23, 2019, at 9:15 AM, Charley Robinson wrote: What do you mean by "intermediate state"? CR On 7/23/2019 11:03 AM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: I understand how it could make the car inoperable. I don?t see an explanation for an intermediate state. -- Max Heim mvheim at sonic.net On Jul 23, 2019, at 6:53 AM, Charley Robinson wrote: Not true, Max. When the points open, the condenser discharges through the coil in order to perpetuate the spark. Without the condenser the engine may not even start. Try it some time. :-) CR On 7/22/2019 1:18 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: How do bad condensers cause rough running? All they do is prevent the points from burning. Oh, you are saying the points are burnt. -- Max Heim '66 MGB On Jul 22, 2019, at 11:10 AM, i erbs via Mgs wrote: could also be a bad a condenser. Could coincidental, not causational. How old is the condenser? Even if newish, there are lots of crappy new Lucas parts out there. I had three bad ones with similar results, until replaced with a Distributor Doctor HD condenser. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB MG A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 10:36 AM David Breneman via Mgs wrote: I've never encountered a "bad fuel" problem before, so I'm looking for some confirmation (or not). The local Mom-without-Pop store put in new pumps, and one of the things they're offering now is 92 octane (US) alcohol-free gas. I had about a quarter tank in my MGA (w/MGB high compression engine) so I went to fill up. The pump with the alcohol- free gas was out of order! So I put in three gallons of regular 92 octane, and about 1/4 mile from the station started experiencing a lot of misfiring, mostly when accelerating in 3rd and 4th. I continued driving like this for about 20 miles to see if it would clear up and it never did. I can't imagine it's anything but the fuel, but I've never encountered "bad fuel" situation like this in 44 years of driving. The fact that it started about 1/4 mile after leaving the station seems like pretty good evidence. Any other possibilities? Is there any option other than to just burn through this half tank of gas? Thanks! David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com --- Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rolindsay at yahoo.com Thu Jul 25 14:55:11 2019 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick) Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2019 15:55:11 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Bad Fuel Question In-Reply-To: <009e01d5430d$9f5807c0$de081740$@planet.nl> Message-ID: <2ce1a6fb-55d8-4834-83a4-2317f9e53053@email.android.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Sat Jul 27 06:09:01 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2019 07:09:01 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Saturday Message-ID: Hello Friends, Its Saturday again here on America's south coast. Another fun day is beginning. This one is dedicated to the TR6. I had intended to take my LBC to the painter on Monday but the weather forecast has changed my mind. Instead, I am addressing an issue that I had originally intended to save for after paint. Specifically, brakes. While bleeding the all-new brakes a few months ago, my grandson over extended the piston in the brake master cylinder. Doing so damaged the rear brake circuit part of the MC. My car now has a new MC installed and we are ready to bleed the system again. This time I am placing a 2x6 board in the pedal box thereby limiting the pedal/MC piston throw. My junior mechanic - six-year-old grandson Kelum - is helping me again today. Yea, the same guy with the offending lead foot, but this time he's helping with the jack, jack stands, lug wrench, and wheel removal. Its going to be a fun, hot, dirty morning. Can't wait. Rick -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Sat Jul 27 17:04:15 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2019 18:04:15 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Locks, etc. (Slightly OT Message-ID: Hello Friends, This morning, with your advice and my grandson's help, I removed the door locks from the TR6 door skins. (Similar to MG locks.) The lock assemblies have since been cleaned, inside and out. The chrome finish isn't concours perfect but the locks work well and will look fine when installed with a new black sealing gasket. Thanks, friends, for your help. Further to the brakes issue; I have decided to remove and rebuild the brake failure switch and fluid distribution block. That is the workplan for tomorrow morning. Rick On Sat, Jul 27, 2019, 10:56 AM Richard Lindsay wrote: Also took the door lock cylinders off of the doors today. I'll clean and prep them for installation after paint. I already have the rubber seals to waterproof the locks. Rick -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Sun Jul 28 20:28:22 2019 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2019 21:28:22 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] 78 mgb Message-ID: <000a01d545b5$4b1a7580$e14f6080$@ranteer.com> Look at this webpage: https://mossmotors.com/rear-drum-brake-components Look at part 86. Part 87 goes through the hub, through the brake shoe, through 85 (spring) and through 86. Part 87 has a T shaped top that goes through a slot in 86, then you turn it and it is supposed to hold. Right rear, one brake shoe, part 87 pulls through part 86 and allows the brake shoe (82) to constantly run against the hub (90). I've gone through several of these (part 86) including some new ones. Is there any cure other than to keep getting new ones until one finally works? When I got the car, all 4 had let go. I replaced all four with new ones. The driver side settled in, but on the passenger side both let go. 2 more, and now one has let go. Thoughts? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From charleyrob at gmail.com Sun Jul 28 21:12:12 2019 From: charleyrob at gmail.com (Charley Robinson) Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2019 23:12:12 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] 78 mgb In-Reply-To: <000a01d545b5$4b1a7580$e14f6080$@ranteer.com> References: <000a01d545b5$4b1a7580$e14f6080$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <955547C0-6918-4543-9C6A-1B803DDC4BE6@gmail.com> Looking for the simplest solution first and something you may have already done; you might try replacing both parts 87 & 86 at the same time. Charley Robinson > On Jul 28, 2019, at 10:28 PM, dave via Mgs wrote: > > Look at this webpage: https://mossmotors.com/rear-drum-brake-components > > Look at part 86. > > Part 87 goes through the hub, through the brake shoe, through 85 (spring) and through 86. Part 87 has a T shaped top that goes through a slot in 86, then you turn it and it is supposed to hold. Right rear, one brake shoe, part 87 pulls through part 86 and allows the brake shoe (82) to constantly run against the hub (90). > > I?ve gone through several of these (part 86) including some new ones. Is there any cure other than to keep getting new ones until one finally works? > > When I got the car, all 4 had let go. I replaced all four with new ones. The driver side settled in, but on the passenger side both let go. 2 more, and now one has let go. > > Thoughts? > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charleyrob at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Sun Jul 28 23:23:50 2019 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2019 22:23:50 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] 78 mgb In-Reply-To: <000a01d545b5$4b1a7580$e14f6080$@ranteer.com> References: <000a01d545b5$4b1a7580$e14f6080$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <9E40D78B-BE7D-4B5B-9CD0-9E12F291D4C5@sonic.net> I think you must be assembling it incorrectly. Orienting the shoes incorrectly for leading and trailing, or using the wrong hole in the shoe. Because I have never had one of those malfunction in any car that I can recall. Or, I know different brake systems use different lengths for the pin (87) ? are you sure you are using the right ones? -- Max Heim '66 MGB > On Jul 28, 2019, at 7:28 PM, dave via Mgs wrote: > > Look at this webpage: https://mossmotors.com/rear-drum-brake-components > > Look at part 86. > > Part 87 goes through the hub, through the brake shoe, through 85 (spring) and through 86. Part 87 has a T shaped top that goes through a slot in 86, then you turn it and it is supposed to hold. Right rear, one brake shoe, part 87 pulls through part 86 and allows the brake shoe (82) to constantly run against the hub (90). > > I?ve gone through several of these (part 86) including some new ones. Is there any cure other than to keep getting new ones until one finally works? > > When I got the car, all 4 had let go. I replaced all four with new ones. The driver side settled in, but on the passenger side both let go. 2 more, and now one has let go. > > Thoughts? > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From daybell7 at aol.com Mon Jul 29 06:36:09 2019 From: daybell7 at aol.com (daybell7 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2019 12:36:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Mgs] MG Grills References: <1915650561.2313172.1564403769851.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1915650561.2313172.1564403769851@mail.yahoo.com> Are MG grills interchangeable?? I have a 72 grill on?my 68 GT & want to replace it.? The original is the most expensive.? I was thinking a 1974 grill, maybe.?Thanks.Steve HughesGainesville, FL -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Mon Jul 29 10:31:46 2019 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2019 09:31:46 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MG Grills In-Reply-To: <1915650561.2313172.1564403769851@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1915650561.2313172.1564403769851.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1915650561.2313172.1564403769851@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Theoretically, yes, for chrome bumper cars. Your 72 I believe is a ?fish mouth? so it should have that bit of trim on the front of the bonnet that would need to be removed and patched to use other grilles. Or maybe it?s missing because the bonnet is 68? That said, I have had in my possession an original early chrome bumper grill (65 or older), a 66 grill, a Moss reproduction 62-69 grill, and an original 73-74 grill, and they all have minor variations in fit dimensions. So some finagling may be required. -- Max Heim '66 MGB > On Jul 29, 2019, at 5:36 AM, daybell7--- via Mgs wrote: > > Are MG grills interchangeable? I have a 72 grill on my 68 GT & want to replace it. The original is the most expensive. I was thinking a 1974 grill, maybe. > > Thanks. > Steve Hughes > Gainesville, FL > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Tue Jul 30 01:29:50 2019 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2019 08:29:50 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Saturday References: Message-ID: Surely the pedal has to be able to go all the way to the floor, if it should be needed? ----- Original Message ----- While bleeding the all-new brakes a few months ago, my grandson over extended the piston in the brake master cylinder. Doing so damaged the rear brake circuit part of the MC. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Tue Jul 30 01:33:20 2019 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2019 08:33:20 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] 78 mgb References: <000a01d545b5$4b1a7580$e14f6080$@ranteer.com> <955547C0-6918-4543-9C6A-1B803DDC4BE6@gmail.com> Message-ID: <37DB57A0BA354A18B62ABA3159018C27@paul> Exactly so. The pin will pull through if its T end is too small as well as if the slot in the disc is too large. ----- Original Message ----- Looking for the simplest solution first and something you may have already done; you might try replacing both parts 87 & 86 at the same time. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Tue Jul 30 01:40:56 2019 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2019 08:40:56 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MG Grills References: <1915650561.2313172.1564403769851.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1915650561.2313172.1564403769851@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <92DA407D59F74E98B384EE493698F82D@paul> 'Grille', even, unless it doubles-up over hot coals :o) A pal had a 72 and the PO had replaced the recessed grille with a chrome slatted, leaving the bright strip on the bonnet. How much butchery had to be done I don't know but that PO only had it a year. RB conversions fit the chrome stalled as well, so I'm guessing there isn't that much difference in the aperture. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Are MG grills interchangeable? I have a 72 grill on my 68 GT & want to replace it. The original is the most expensive. I was thinking a 1974 grill, maybe. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Tue Jul 30 06:39:41 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2019 07:39:41 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Saturday In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Exactly my thought but the included instructions warn against over extending the pedal/piston throw. Perhaps the 'normal' pedal extent doesn't exceed the piston's limit? On Tue, Jul 30, 2019, 2:57 AM PaulHunt73 wrote: > Surely the pedal has to be able to go all the way to the floor, if it > should be needed? > > > ----- Original Message ----- > While bleeding the all-new brakes a few months ago, my grandson over > extended the piston in the brake master cylinder. Doing so damaged the rear > brake circuit part of the MC. > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Tue Jul 30 10:42:19 2019 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2019 09:42:19 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MG Grills In-Reply-To: <92DA407D59F74E98B384EE493698F82D@paul> References: <1915650561.2313172.1564403769851.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1915650561.2313172.1564403769851@mail.yahoo.com> <92DA407D59F74E98B384EE493698F82D@paul> Message-ID: The only part of the early grille that overlaps the edge of the bonnet is the badge in the center. Often it has so much clearance behind it that the finisher strip might well squeeze in there. Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 30, 2019, at 12:40 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs wrote: > > 'Grille', even, unless it doubles-up over hot coals :o) > > A pal had a 72 and the PO had replaced the recessed grille with a chrome slatted, leaving the bright strip on the bonnet. How much butchery had to be done I don't know but that PO only had it a year. RB conversions fit the chrome stalled as well, so I'm guessing there isn't that much difference in the aperture. > > PaulH. > ----- Original Message ----- > Are MG grills interchangeable? I have a 72 grill on my 68 GT & want to replace it. The original is the most expensive. I was thinking a 1974 grill, maybe. > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Wed Jul 31 06:09:16 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2019 07:09:16 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Wednesday...and brakes Message-ID: Do you pronounce it wed-nes-day or do you say wens-day? Yea, its a bit too quiet and my MG is running fine so I'll report on my other LBC (while tastefully avoiding using the T-word). Good morning Friends, Yes, its Wednesday again here on America's south coast. This morning I hope to do a bit of engine room cleaning in advance of installing some new brake bits. With the brake failure safety light switch (I can't remember the proper name.) and a few pipes removed for repairs, the area where they mount is now open for cleaning. Usually that spot is cluttered with pipes and wires making it difficult to clean. Add to that, its immediately below the brake and clutch master cylinders so paint damage from brake fluid leaks and spills is not uncommon. This morning I hope to tidy that area, then spray a bit of Carmine Red paint over the discolored surface. Parts are on order to replace a few damaged bits. Access to the offending parts is from below so the car, now on jack stands, needs to go further up. That work is easy enough but does take a bit of time and planning to guarantee a safe and secure car position. If I'm going under there, it has to be secure. Before today's shop work begins I need to stop at the hardware store for a bolt (whose length isn't in my inventory) and a plug to seal an unused fluid port. That's about it. Given a little meterology luck, I may come home in a more interesting car. We shall see. Happy Wed-nes-day...or is it wens-day? -rick -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Wed Jul 31 06:26:46 2019 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2019 13:26:46 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Wednesday...and brakes References: Message-ID: <4A6355FF127546DD901DD2905AA51944@paul> 'Wensday' US, 'Wedn'sday' UK. ----- Original Message ----- Do you pronounce it wed-nes-day or do you say wens-day? Yea, its a bit too quiet and my MG is running fine so I'll report on my other LBC (while tastefully avoiding using the T-word). Good morning Friends, Yes, its Wednesday again here on America's south coast. This morning I hope to do a bit of engine room cleaning in advance of installing some new brake bits. With the brake failure safety light switch (I can't remember the proper name.) and a few pipes removed for repairs, the area where they mount is now open for cleaning. Usually that spot is cluttered with pipes and wires making it difficult to clean. Add to that, its immediately below the brake and clutch master cylinders so paint damage from brake fluid leaks and spills is not uncommon. This morning I hope to tidy that area, then spray a bit of Carmine Red paint over the discolored surface. Parts are on order to replace a few damaged bits. Access to the offending parts is from below so the car, now on jack stands, needs to go further up. That work is easy enough but does take a bit of time and planning to guarantee a safe and secure car position. If I'm going under there, it has to be secure. Before today's shop work begins I need to stop at the hardware store for a bolt (whose length isn't in my inventory) and a plug to seal an unused fluid port. That's about it. Given a little meterology luck, I may come home in a more interesting car. We shall see. Happy Wed-nes-day...or is it wens-day? -rick ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From david_breneman at yahoo.com Wed Jul 31 08:18:18 2019 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2019 14:18:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Mgs] Wednesday...and brakes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1511873860.263632.1564582698117@mail.yahoo.com> Here in the US, I hear a lot of people say Wends-day. I do occasional voice-over work, and to be correct you need to sneak in a little bit of the D in the right place, but hot as much as the Brits do.It needs to be almost undiscernable, but there. David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com On Wednesday, July 31, 2019, 5:09:37 AM PDT, Richard Lindsay via Mgs wrote: ? ?Do you pronounce it wed-nes-day or do you say wens-day? Yea, its a bit too quiet and my MG is running fine so I'll report on my other LBC (while tastefully avoiding using the T-word). -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Wed Jul 31 08:38:57 2019 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2019 09:38:57 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGA brakes Message-ID: <002501d547ad$afc53930$0f4fab90$@ranteer.com> We have an mga that hasn't moved for about 6 months due to the master cylinder. We put all new seals in the brake side of the master cylinder, and bled all four corners quite a bit. Clutch works just fine. Took it out for a test, and the brakes work pretty well, driving perhaps a mile with numerous application of the brakes, just once, the brakes pretty much failed and I had to pump it quite a bit. Then they worked fine again just fine for the rest of the test drive. Car sat for about an hour, then I took it out again for another test drive. Exactly the same - brakes worked great except just once it was like they failed, but after a good bit of pumping they came back up and I drove it back in, testing the brakes numerous times with good results. We don't know how old the hoses are; that's my next item to replace. Any one have any other ideas? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Wed Jul 31 09:11:43 2019 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2019 16:11:43 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGA brakes References: <002501d547ad$afc53930$0f4fab90$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: When you say 'failed' I presume you mean the pedal went to the floor? Or at least much further down than normal? Or did you have a firm pedal but poor retardation? Pedal to the floor is unlikely to be hoses, they either burst and stay burst, or develop a flap internally that stops that brake (or both rears assuming the same as the MGB) from coming off or going on. If a caliper hose it will cause either severe dragging or strong pulling to one side. Pedal to the floor is either pressure seal failure or air, but air is unlikely to come and go. I've had an MGB clutch master that did much the same and it turned out to be the spreader behind the pressure seal with a chunk broken away, causing the seal to cock in the bore intermittently. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Took it out for a test, and the brakes work pretty well, driving perhaps a mile with numerous application of the brakes, just once, the brakes pretty much failed and I had to pump it quite a bit. Then they worked fine again just fine for the rest of the test drive. Car sat for about an hour, then I took it out again for another test drive. Exactly the same - brakes worked great except just once it was like they failed, but after a good bit of pumping they came back up and I drove it back in, testing the brakes numerous times with good results. We don't know how old the hoses are; that's my next item to replace. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From david_breneman at yahoo.com Wed Jul 31 12:07:19 2019 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2019 18:07:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Mgs] Bad Fuel Question In-Reply-To: <011101d54193$ccbf3a60$663daf20$@centurytel.net> References: <773266378.5449731.1563816981900.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <773266378.5449731.1563816981900@mail.yahoo.com> <1212B08C-5593-45F0-9FF8-7DC9B6E1398F@sonic.net> <7c65e28c-2116-aa7f-484a-69acb1ee3ddc@twc.com> <011101d54193$ccbf3a60$663daf20$@centurytel.net> Message-ID: <1534998015.388864.1564596439884@mail.yahoo.com> Thanks to everyone who replied to this question.? I have a few things to check now. David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: