[Mgs] [tr3a] Help wanted (needed)

[John DiFede]

What model carb do you have???   It sounds like the float valve is stuck open.  

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 28, 2019, at 6:36 PM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Failing float bowl valve.
> 
>> On Sun, Apr 28, 2019, 5:29 PM rcharmoz axxessgroup.com rcharmoz at axxessgroup.com [tr3a] <tr3a at yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>> Hi Gang,
>> 
>> I realize that this forum is geared to restorers, but there is so much knowledge to be shared, I thought I'd tap into it.
>> 
>> Rewind to a couple of weeks ago when I rebuilt the carbs with all new tiny little parts.
>> 
>> Everything went smoothly and the car ran great until today when I noticed a strong smell of gasoline while driving.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I got home and checked to find out that the front float chamber was spewing (big time) gasoline from its overflow tube.
>> 
>> I took it apart, checked it out and put it back together. Same problem.
>> 
>> I took out the jet assembly, checked it out and put it back together. Same problem.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Now, the only things that are different are the part substitutions recommended by Moss.
>> 
>> On the float chamber it is the lower mounting bolt assembly.
>> 
>> On the jet assembly, it is the rubber 'O' rings that substitute for the tiny cork washers. I've kept the large one.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> It acts as though the fuel flow to the carb is obstructed somewhere. The front float chamber fills up and the gasoline just pours out of the secondary tube.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Since the car starts and drives (sputtering a bit until it gets up to speed) while all this is happening, I assume fuel is getting to at least the rear carb, and likely the front carb as well.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Wassup??????? I almost bought the farm on this one…
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Remy
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: tr3a at yahoogroups.com [mailto:tr3a at yahoogroups.com] 
>> Sent: Friday, April 26, 2019 12:00 PM
>> To: Bob Howard <mgbobh at gmail.com>
>> Cc: mgs at autox.team.net List <mgs at autox.team.net>; TR3b Mail List <tr3a at yahoogroups.com>; Biturbo <BiturboZentrum at yahoogroups.com>
>> Subject: [tr3a] Re: [Mgs] Bleeding brakes question...
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> >    Mine does indicate such a fault, as it leaks right through the $55
>> 
>> > plastic switch, the inside fender paint showing that. 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Mine too, Bob! Exactly the same.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Fri, Apr 26, 2019, 8:33 AM Robert's New iPad <mgbobh at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>>    The MGB workshop manual says to do longest first. MGBs initially had a single circuit, then two, and a shuttle-device that would indicate if one system were leaking.  
>>    I suppose, and this is just supposition, that the longer lines have the possibility of more air therein, the shorter ones to front disc brakes move more fluid, so our bleeding longest first would be least likely to cause that valve to indicate a leak fault.
>>    Mine does indicate such a fault, as it leaks right through the $55 plastic switch, the inside fender paint showing that. 
>> 
>> > On Apr 26, 2019, at 9:18 AM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> > 
>> >     On vehicles with independent front and rear brake hydraulic circuits, is it still advisable to bleed the longest pipe run first? That is, does it matter if one bleeds the front brakes first?
>> > 
>> > Rick
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > 
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>> 
>> __._,_.___
>> Posted by: rcharmoz axxessgroup.com <rcharmoz at axxessgroup.com>
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