[Mgs] Was: coil; now wiring issues

[PaulHunt73]

Not sure exactly what you are saying is incorrect - if the colours don't match up between the new and old switches, or the new switch and your harness, or if the wrong side flashes.  Colours on replacement switches can be wrong.  If Moss have supplied an incorrect item then return it, or at least talk to then about it.  You shouldn't have to modify your car to get their stuff to work correctly.

I'm also not exactly sure what is happening, or not happening.  You seem to be saying the indicator flasher clicks, but the lamps aren't lighting?  In that case you have an incorrect indicator flasher unit. As a 66 you should have the original large cylindrical 3-pin flasher.  That shouldn't click unless it is powering at least one bulb, and if only one bulb is working it should only give a very brief flicker.

If one side is OK the flasher unit is OK, so start at the switch.  And given your concern about wiring colours, having individual bullets it may not have been connected correctly.

With 12v on the pump terminal (if right on the spade) and not on the pump body then it almost certainly is the points oxidised.  Remove the cap, separate the points carefully and slide a piece of fine wet and dry through them, both sides.

PaulH.


----- Original Message ----- 


  I wasn’t pointing fingers, just reporting a fact for general reference. I found another discrepancy today, although it is unclear whether the fault is in the wiring diagram or the part. The colors shown for the turn signal indicator wires are reversed, compared to the wires built into the turn signal switch. This was a Moss replacement switch, made in China, so it is very likely that it was just manufactured incorrectly. Anyway, it is easy enough to just switch the lamp positions.


  I am having a persistent problem with the right side lamps, however. The indicator flashes, but I can’t get anything out of the front or rear lamps.  I can’t even get the test lamp to flash with the probe inserted in the very first junction, or even on the contact in the switch itself. This is rather baffling — all it could be is a discontinuity inside the copper rivet, it seems to me. This switch was functioning on the other car, last year, but I can’t say I am very impressed with its quality of construction. Unless someone has a better suggestion, I think I am going to order another switch.


  I still don’t have the fuel pump working. It has 12v at the terminal, and not on the body. I am thinking I will have to take it apart and look at the points. I got distracted with the dash wiring.
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