[Mgs] Soliciting advice on an electrical problem
PaulHunt73
paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com
Tue Jul 24 01:26:16 MDT 2018
Ohmmeter is no good, it needs to be voltage when the things are turned on.
If you have a bad connection then by its very nature it will be variable,
and what might look good enough with the microscopic current passed by an
ohmmeter can suddenly get much bigger when you pass real-world current
through it. Paradoxically the reverse can also be true, when testing a
switch that hasn't been used for a long time for example, it can go
high-resistance over time, lead you to think it is faulty, but will work
normally when full voltage is applied which can burn through oxidisation.
Points oxidising is a case in point, although in that case they can get
beyond being 'self-cleaning' when voltage is applied, and need attention.
I've had a new SU pump and in the box was a slip of paper saying to clean
the contacts before returning it as faulty. I've got them going again
simply by bridging the points with the tip of a screwdriver, which energises
the solenoid and opens the points, then when they are released they wipe
together which starts the cleaning process. A couple of seconds gently
prodding with a screwdriver may be all that is needed.
You also need to check the earth to the pump is good, by looking for 12v on
the pump body when the ignition is on. If you see any voltage there - when
you have 12v on the spade connection - then the earth is bad, it should be
zero.
As long as the two ignition whites at the tach are connected together the
engine should run. These should have male and female bullet connections on
later versions (a continuous loop of white wound round an external pick-up
on earlier), the 12v fed to the tach should be a spade and is not needed for
the engine to run.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
> Thanks, that was the direction I started looking at. I checked continuity
> using an ohmmeter between the 4-way and the fuse box, and between it and
> the ignition switch (pin #2 IIRC).
>
> I also found 12V at the fuel pump feed. So that is a little baffling. Fuel
> pump is from car A and was formerly working. Maybe the points stuck in the
> 2 years it has been out of service.
>
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