[Mgs] Pesky ball joints
Barrie Robinson
barrie at look.ca
Sun Apr 3 08:50:05 MDT 2016
This may come out as a bit of a mess but I copied
it off an Aston Martin Feltham Club newsletter
and I have been told it works like a
charm. However, the 30 year old crud may not be charmanle :-).
Ignore the bits other than the "USEFUL TIP".
OUR MEMBERS TAKE ON MANUFACTURING
[]
Recently there has been some interesting activity
on the parts-for-Feltham-cars front. David
Walmsley can make the gasket between the heater
vent and bonnet. I can attest to these closed
cell items as I have one. Ivo Noteboom has done
an extraordinary job in having the bell crank
lever, 56250, made. I had mine mislaid and have
searched for years without success so naturally I
got one.. Ivo had six made so cost was pretty
high but now has only two left. Russ Taft has
developed the exact reproduction of the turn
signal knob. Keith Williams is perfecting the
interior light lenses. But my whirring
over-lubricated and worn gears, which slip
occasionally, makes it impossible to remember
others I know there are others out there and
it would be brilliant if they would step into the
light. Other members could be very grateful for
their efforts. There is a web site that caters
for those artisans who cannot economically
justify advertising just go to www.britcot.com.
USEFUL TIP
[]
Sometimes one finds oneself in awe at the skill
of mechanic masters. A while back there was this
tiny chrome headed screw that would not budge
from a chrome plated window frame. Drilling
would be impossible and it resisted copious
applications of rust freeing penetrate
oils. The whole assembly was placed in front of
the maestro at my favourite Brit car
shop. With a tiny metal collar ring, an
oxyacetylene flame, and a dash of cold water, the
application of a screw driver took it out with
ease. No damage to the screw so it could be
reused and no discolouration on the window
frame. So when this tip was received it was
thought that maybe it should be spread.
You dont need a special tool to remove a
ball-joint stud. Loosen the castellated nut
several turns. Two equally weighted ball-peen
hammers are required. Place one on one side of
the stud and bash it on the side opposite with
the second hammer. Several hard blows should loosen the ball-joint
FROM A DOWN-UNDER BLOKE
ENGINE TALK by Peter Henson
[]
Since no other techo has offered to step up to
rabbit on about engines, Ill continue with a bit
more on the LB 2.6. (Keith Dixon has contributed
erudite discussion Editor) Im about to become
even more familiar with this engine. No person
contacted me to answer the question regarding the
LB prefix to the 2.6 engine numbers. The answer
is on page 460 of Arnold Daveys book. The last
Newsletter also left a question regarding the
rear crankshaft seal for these engines. Ive
given you my home spun mod to help control the
oil and I left you to wonder what I would do to
enhance this procedure. The answer however is
that I would attempt to find a modified
crankshaft that has a seal journal instead of a
screw thread. Apparently they exist but cost a
bomb. If anyone is tempted to do the modification
I wrote about, talk to me prior to commencing the
job. I may have made it sound a fairly simple
procedure; it is in fact far from it. My next
challenge was to bring the engine temperature
under control. I know that if you live South of
about Coffs Harbour, the engine rarely warms
up. So I did the utmost to bring the cooling
system to modern standards. Checked for
scale. Renewed hoses Re-sealed the filler
cap. Went through the water pump,
carefully. Read Tocock and Bastow again, then
fitted a restrictor in the bypass hose. Next I
fitted a degree plate to the front of the engine
and notched the front pulley. Then I reset the
ignition timing with a strobe light and blocked
off the vacuum advance. I was getting cooler all
the time but not satisfied so I fitted a fan
shroud, then I threw the original thermostat away
and put in an early opening thermostat after
drilling a bleed hole in it. I also checked the
fuel mixture and fuel supply. Now things were
coming under control. I had previously carried
out a compression test and a combustion gas
leakage test prior to commencing all of the
above, as well as a chemical clean out of the
cooling system. I also checked the water
temperature gauge for function. Dont trust dash
gauges, ever! Finally I fitted a 4lb pressure
cap, first closing off the old pressure valve
fitted to the radiator overflow tube. You might
wonder why. Well water pumps can leak inwards at
the seal under suction, true! I had to modify the
original radiator filler cap to do this. Next I
blocked the air flow past the sides of the
radiator to encourage all the air from the grill
to pass through the radiator. I used low-density
foam. I still couldnt understand why the engine
pumped out a litre of water on a long run so I
fitted a recovery type cap and a on 40-degree
days with 95C+ temps, I finally fitted a Davies
Craig electric water pump and an electric fan.
These come in on demand through a thermostatic
switch and also maintain circulation after the
engine is switched off to prevent hot spots
forming and boiling occurring in the rear of the
cylinder head. Im finally satisfied that the
engine temperature is controlled within limits at
all times. Now for the oil leaks.recovery
reservoir. Now the top tank stays full and
recovers the coolant as it cools. Not satisfied.
NEW CINTURATO TYRES
Dougal Cawley of Longstone Tyres reports that
there is a new batch of a Pirelli Cinturato tyre
that is a radial alternative that suits our
Feltham cars in terms of looks as well as
performance. A new batch of these 185VR16CA67
tyres has just been manufactured. The photo
shows how well it fits the wheel arch.
At 10:28 AM 4/2/2016 -0500, you wrote:
>Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
> boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0040_01D18CCA.5C0244B0"
>Content-Language: en-us
>
>Get a ball joint tool (looks sort of like a gear
>puller with fixed arms, many auto parts stores
>will loan one to you). Use it to put pressure
>on the joint. If that does not suffice, hit
>the control arm with a hammer while the tool is in place.
>
>Maynard
>
>From: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dan DiBiase via Mgs
>Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2016 5:51 AM
>To: Richard Lindsay; mgs at autox.team.net List
>Subject: Re: [Mgs] Pesky ball joints
>
>Sounds like one of those deals where
>perseverance, patience and penetrating oil/heat
>are needed.... Took 30 years for them to get
>that way, it might take a few weeks
>to get them unstuck.... ;-)
>
>Dan D
>'76B, '65B
>Central NJ SA
>
>
>From: Richard Lindsay via Mgs <<mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>mgs at autox.team.net>
>To:
>"<mailto:mgs at autox.team.net%20List>mgs at autox.team.net
>List" <<mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>mgs at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Friday, April 1, 2016 7:28 PM
>Subject: [Mgs] Pesky ball joints
>
>Hey friends, I need help please. The ball joints
>on my Triumph GT6 project are severly stuck.
>They've been rusted in place for over 30 years -
>perhaps 40+ years! And I have tried a 'pickle
>fork', pounding, penetrating oil, and the torch...all to no avail.
>Please tell me your ideas. My '72's suspension
>is ready to reassemble, except for the ball
>joints. Ideas? Tricks? Experiences? Magic?
>Thank you. All advice is appreciated.
>-rick
>
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Regards
Barrie
Barrie Robinson
Aston Martin Feltham Club
barrie at look.ca
www.AMFClub.com
Go with the flow - but paddle hard
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