[Mgs] Pesky ball joints

Barrie Robinson barrie at look.ca
Sun Apr 3 08:50:05 MDT 2016

This may come out as a bit of a mess but I copied 
it off an Aston Martin Feltham Club newsletter 
and I have been told it works like a 
charm.  However, the 30 year old crud may not be charmanle :-).
Ignore the bits other than the "USEFUL TIP".

Recently there has been some interesting activity 
on the parts-for-Feltham-cars front.  David 
Walmsley can make the gasket between the heater 
vent and bonnet.  I can attest to these closed 
cell items as I have one.   Ivo Noteboom has done 
an extraordinary job in having the bell crank 
lever, 56250, made.  I had mine mislaid and have 
searched for years without success so naturally I 
got one..   Ivo had six made so cost was pretty 
high but now has only two left.   Russ Taft has 
developed the exact reproduction of the turn 
signal knob.  Keith Williams is perfecting the 
interior light lenses.   But my whirring 
over-lubricated and worn gears, which slip 
occasionally, makes it impossible to remember 
others    I know there are others out there and 
it would be brilliant if they would step into the 
light.   Other members could be very grateful for 
their efforts.   There is a web site that caters 
for those artisans who cannot economically 
justify advertising – just go to www.britcot.com.

Sometimes one finds oneself in awe at the skill 
of mechanic masters. A while back there was this 
tiny chrome headed screw that would not budge 
from a chrome plated window frame.  Drilling 
would be impossible and it resisted copious 
applications of “rust freeing” penetrate 
oils.  The whole assembly was placed in front of 
the maestro at my favourite “Brit” car 
shop.   With a tiny metal collar ring, an 
oxyacetylene flame, and a dash of cold water, the 
application of a screw driver took it out with 
ease.  No damage to the screw so it could be 
reused and no discolouration on the window 
frame.  So when this tip was received it was 
thought that maybe it should be spread.

You don’t need a special tool to remove a 
ball-joint stud.  Loosen the castellated nut 
several turns.   Two equally weighted ball-peen 
hammers are required.   Place one on one side of 
the stud and bash it on the side opposite with 
the second hammer.   Several hard blows should loosen the ball-joint

ENGINE TALK by Peter Henson
Since no other techo has offered to step up to 
rabbit on about engines, I’ll continue with a bit 
more on the LB 2.6. (Keith Dixon has contributed 
erudite discussion – Editor)  I’m about to become 
even more familiar with this engine.  No person 
contacted me to answer the question regarding the 
LB prefix to the 2.6 engine numbers. The answer 
is on page 460 of Arnold Davey’s book.  The last 
Newsletter also left a question regarding the 
rear crankshaft seal for these engines. I’ve 
given you my home spun mod to help control the 
oil and I left you to wonder what I would do to 
enhance this procedure. The answer however is 
that I would attempt to find a modified 
crankshaft that has a seal journal instead of a 
screw thread. Apparently they exist but cost a 
bomb. If anyone is tempted to do the modification 
I wrote about, talk to me prior to commencing the 
job. I may have made it sound a fairly simple 
procedure; it is in fact far from it.  My next 
challenge was to bring the engine temperature 
under control. I know that if you live South of 
about Coffs Harbour, the engine rarely warms 
up.  So I did the utmost to bring the cooling 
system to modern standards.  Checked for 
scale.  Renewed hoses  Re-sealed the filler 
cap.  Went through the water pump, 
carefully.  Read Tocock and Bastow again, then 
fitted a restrictor in the bypass hose.  Next I 
fitted a degree plate to the front of the engine 
and notched the front pulley.  Then I reset the 
ignition timing with a strobe light and blocked 
off the vacuum advance.  I was getting cooler all 
the time but not satisfied so I fitted a fan 
shroud, then I threw the original thermostat away 
and put in an early opening thermostat after 
drilling a bleed hole in it.  I also checked the 
fuel mixture and fuel supply.  Now things were 
coming under control.  I had previously carried 
out a compression test and a combustion gas 
leakage test prior to commencing all of the 
above, as well as a chemical clean out of the 
cooling system. I also checked the water 
temperature gauge for function.  Don’t trust dash 
gauges, ever!  Finally I fitted a 4lb pressure 
cap, first closing off the old pressure valve 
fitted to the radiator overflow tube. You might 
wonder why. Well water pumps can leak inwards at 
the seal under suction, true! I had to modify the 
original radiator filler cap to do this.  Next I 
blocked the air flow past the sides of the 
radiator to encourage all the air from the grill 
to pass through the radiator. I used low-density 
foam.  I still couldn’t understand why the engine 
pumped out a litre of water on a long run so I 
fitted a recovery type cap and a on 40-degree 
days with 95C+ temps, I finally fitted a Davies 
Craig electric water pump and an electric fan. 
These come in on demand through a thermostatic 
switch and also maintain circulation after the 
engine is switched off to prevent hot spots 
forming and boiling occurring in the rear of the 
cylinder head.  I’m finally satisfied that the 
engine temperature is controlled within limits at 
all times.  Now for the oil leaks.recovery 
reservoir. Now the top tank stays full and 
recovers the coolant as it cools.  Not satisfied.

Dougal Cawley of Longstone Tyres reports that 
there is a new batch of a Pirelli Cinturato tyre 
that is a radial alternative that suits our 
Feltham cars in terms of looks as well as 
performance.  A new batch of these 185VR16CA67 
tyres has just been manufactured.  The photo 
shows how well it fits the wheel arch.

At 10:28 AM 4/2/2016 -0500, you wrote:
>Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
>         boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0040_01D18CCA.5C0244B0"
>Content-Language: en-us
>Get a ball joint tool (looks sort of like a gear 
>puller with fixed arms,  many auto parts stores 
>will loan one to you).  Use it to put pressure 
>on the joint.  If that does not suffice, hit 
>the control arm with a hammer while the tool is in place.
>From: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dan DiBiase via Mgs
>Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2016 5:51 AM
>To: Richard Lindsay; mgs at autox.team.net List
>Subject: Re: [Mgs] Pesky ball joints
>Sounds like one of those deals where 
>perseverance, patience and penetrating oil/heat 
>are needed.... Took 30 years for them to get 
>that way, it might take a few weeks
>to get them unstuck.... ;-)
>Dan D
>'76B, '65B
>Central NJ SA
>From: Richard Lindsay via Mgs <<mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>mgs at autox.team.net>
>"<mailto:mgs at autox.team.net%20List>mgs at autox.team.net 
>List" <<mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>mgs at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Friday, April 1, 2016 7:28 PM
>Subject: [Mgs] Pesky ball joints
>Hey friends, I need help please. The ball joints 
>on my Triumph GT6 project are severly stuck. 
>They've been rusted in place for over 30 years - 
>perhaps 40+ years! And I have tried a 'pickle 
>fork', pounding, penetrating oil, and the torch...all to no avail.
>Please tell me your ideas. My '72's suspension 
>is ready to reassemble, except for the ball 
>joints. Ideas? Tricks? Experiences? Magic?
>Thank you. All advice is appreciated.
><mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>Mgs at autox.team.net
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Barrie Robinson
Aston Martin Feltham Club
barrie at look.ca
                                 Go with the flow - but paddle hard  
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