[Mgs] Replacing rear shock link

PaulHunt73 paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com
Thu May 1 04:39:51 MDT 2014

In theory, yes.  However in practice it's not always so simple.  If the nut 
is seized to the stud it can mean the stud turns in the rubber bush before 
the nut turns on the stud.  You could apply heat if replacing the drop-link, 
but as I was replacing the damper I didn't want heat to destroy the bush, so 
opted to hacksaw part-way through the nut at an angle till I could get a 
chisel in the cut and open it up.  If either nut does not come undone. then 
the damper, drop-link and bottom plate may have to be removed as an assembly 
and attacked on the bench, probably better than getting heat on it in-situ 
so close to the tank, and the pump and pipes if the right-hand side.  That's 
not so difficult, with the body safely supported, jack up under the spring 
adjacent to the U-bolts to compress it but not enough to lift the body off 
its supports, then you can remove the U-bolts to free the bottom plate. 
There is quite a bit of tension left in the spring when the damper arm is 
full down, even if the axle strap is removed, but that's best left alone.

My clunk was due to the damper to chassis rail bolts not being tight enough, 
they have to be really tight.


----- Original Message ----- 
>I think the source of my clunk noise (when I go over bumps) is the right 
> shock absorber link (267-640). The bushing in the link is visibly kaput. 
> Can
> the link be liberated by simply removing the nuts at each end? Or, is 
> there
> additional disassembly required?

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