[Mgs] B/GT light switch -- now heater/defroster

[Barrie Robinson]

I had the extreme delight of trying to put my heater back into my MGB 
GT V8.  The cable got in the way and my fingers were not tiny tot 
size.  In a brilliant flash of intelligence I not only saw the 
problem but formulated a solution.  Don't you love it when you 
formulate!.    I cut a long hole to allow the cable to get in easily 
and to sent details to Barney Gaylord who put it in the Chicago (?) 
club tech notes.  I cannot find the web site now but it is there 
somewhere.  The information with photos was put on the web 
site.  Anyway, I found later that MGBs after a certain date had a 
similar cut hole - just like mine.  It made putting back a piece of cake.


At 07:41 PM 13/03/2014 -0700, Max Heim wrote:
>Believe me, you do not want to try to take the heater out. Getting it back
>in is one of those jobs that makes grown men weep.
>
>Using the tube nozzle, squirt the hinge with PB Blaster, let it soak in, and
>then try to work it back and forth. Maybe you can free it up enough to
>function. Lubing the cable can help, too.
>
>--
>
>Max Heim
>'66 MGB GHN3L76149
>If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
>it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>
>on 3/13/14 7:30 PM, Carr&Edwards at scvc70 at epix.net wrote:
>
> > Non-working heater controls were something else I've been dealing with --
> > much easier to do with the driver's seat out so you can lie on the floor in
> > relative comfort!
> >
> > The cable stop on the temperature control cable wasn't tight enough to keep
> > the wire from slipping through it when the knob was turned, so 
> knob movement
> > had no effect on the valve on the engine block.  Two people are needed for
> > this fix--one to watch the valve movement, the other to turn the knob and
> > tighten the cable stop at the right spot.
> >
> > The car's heater/defroster control had lost its cable stop--but 
> installing a
> > new one didn't help matters any; I could barely move the knob 
> with the cable
> > connected.  Removal of the little hood on the side of the tunnel that
> > deflects air downward at the feet let me see why:  the metal flap that
> > changes the air direction when the knob is turned was so rusty that I could
> > move it only with a screwdriver as a lever.  The only way to access this
> > flap to clean/lubricate it is to take the entire heater out -- which I just
> > don't feel like doing!  We never drive the car when it's bitter cold anyway
> > (far too much salt on the roads here), so I just set everything 
> to "OFF" and
> > will leave it that way.
> >
> > Sarah Carr
> > '71 B/GT in PA
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <mgbob at juno.com>
> > To: <h.duinhoven at planet.nl>
> > Cc: <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>; <scvc70 at epix.net>; <mgs at autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2014 4:34 PM
> > Subject: RE: [Mgs] B/GT light switch
> >
> >
> > Hi Hans,
> >    I thought that I might have noticed a tiny breath of air from those
> > defroster mists once, but the draught was from a vent window not fully
> > closed.
> >   My 1972 has a single speed switch. The motor runs well and does blow air
> > out the foot warming ports, but almost none goes to the windshield.
> > Bob
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Regards,
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
MGB GT V8 in concours condition
Aston Martin DB 2/4 MkII under restoration
www.AMFClub.com
www.britcot.com
www.vectisgroup.ca
barrie at look.ca
Barrie, Ontario
705-721-9060