From crk at godblessthe.us  Wed May  1 11:55:26 2013
From: crk at godblessthe.us (Clayton Kirkwood)
Date: Wed, 1 May 2013 10:55:26 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Stripping paint, uggg.
In-Reply-To: <58953.184.243.177.109.1367373159.squirrel@wm.wi.net>
References: <CAOc+-dyOF6D-baa=i5ZWFQVR_3aX_Lwkvvxs8M-54C-4=9A8nQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<1367351827.3337.YahooMailNeo@web164903.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<58953.184.243.177.109.1367373159.squirrel@wm.wi.net>
Message-ID: <00cf01ce4695$10931870$31b94950$@us>

What do you guys do with the left over stripper? Does it dry? I know that it
is not capable of being neutralized.

Crk


This Week's 'Non Compos Mentis' Award: "Being in Watertown right now, the
streets are empty. It's erie. It's as though a bomb had dropped somewhere."
--CNN's star reporter Susan Candiotti on the scene during the man-hunt for
the Boston bomber
another mind like a steel trap


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of dwoerpel at wi.net
Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2013 6:53 PM
Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Stripping paint, uggg.

Could be worse Rick!  5 of us restored the EAA's B-25 back in the 80's.  It
had been in "Catch 22" and had 7 coats of paint and rubberized backing
insulation on the interior.  Got it done with
350 gal. of methylene chloride and 6 months of Wednesday evenings and full
Saturdays.  It's a messy job but somebody's got to do it....all part of the
fun.

Car is going to be great!

Dave W.



> Or investing in a big ol' vat and a couple
gallons of stripper..... ;-)
> 
> Dan D
> Central
NJ USA
> 
> 
> 
>
________________________________
> 
From: Richard Lindsay
> <richardolindsay at gmail.com>
> To: mgs at autox.team.net;
mg-t at autox.team.net; Rui
> Gigante
<rui.gigante at gmail.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2013 3:42
PM
> Subject: [Mgs] Stripping paint, uggg.
> 
>

> Hi Friends,
> 
> After hauling all the
> big metal bits to the storage unit, I spent a couple of
hours this afternoon
> stripping paint off of the spare tire
> carrier.  What a P.I.T.A.!  Still, its coming up nicely
and will look
> good.  I keep telling myself that.
> 
> Here's a
> couple of pictures of the carrier in two stages
of paint
> stripping.  The first
> picture was taken about
an hour before the
> second one.
>
http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130430_131837.jpg
>
http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130430_142757.jpg
> 
> I
guess, with 20/20 hindsight,
> I should have researched a shop
that
> does sand/media blasting but as I am
> cheap...
> 
> -rick
>
_______________________________________________
>
Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  
> $12.75
> Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:
>
http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
>
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>
_______________________________________________
> 
>
Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  
> $12.75
> Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dwoerpel at wi.net
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/crk at godblessthe.us

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Wed May  1 12:50:50 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 1 May 2013 13:50:50 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Stripping paint, uggg.
In-Reply-To: <00cf01ce4695$10931870$31b94950$@us>
References: <CAOc+-dyOF6D-baa=i5ZWFQVR_3aX_Lwkvvxs8M-54C-4=9A8nQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<1367351827.3337.YahooMailNeo@web164903.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<58953.184.243.177.109.1367373159.squirrel@wm.wi.net>
	<00cf01ce4695$10931870$31b94950$@us>
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dxr-xypB9A3EKrxZ4F-SqJMVAW-Qp3SA4NS-ebkOFY4kQ@mail.gmail.com>

Yes, after about 5 minutes, I scrape the part with a putty knife,
wiping the goo onto a paper towel.  I then usually wipe the piece with
a town moistened in lacquer thinner, leaving anything on the surface
of the metal to evaporate.  I then sand the part with sandpaper and or
the wire wheel in a drill.  I then spray the part with Restomotive's
Metal Ready.  Once dry, the part can then be primered (I use an etch
or rust neutralizing primer), followed by body filler to even out any
rust dimples and to smooth the surface.

When I first read your note I thought you meant; What do you do with
the stripped off paint and stripper?  I keep a roll of paper towels
handy and wipe the scraped-off goo from my putty knife on the paper.
That then goes into the trash.

Did I answer your question, or just write some words?

-rick

On Wed, May 1, 2013 at 12:55 PM, Clayton Kirkwood <crk at godblessthe.us> wrote:
> What do you guys do with the left over stripper? Does it dry? I know that it
> is not capable of being neutralized.
>
> Crk

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Wed May  1 12:53:40 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 1 May 2013 13:53:40 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Shortest note ever...
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dzZJgtt6hbHJsDBWAFJyip6tC4t_bVA2gaW5s++CuKAFw@mail.gmail.com>

No TD work done today.  Grandbaby sitting.

-rick

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Wed May  1 13:46:02 2013
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Wed, 1 May 2013 12:46:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Shortest note ever...
In-Reply-To: <CAOc+-dzZJgtt6hbHJsDBWAFJyip6tC4t_bVA2gaW5s++CuKAFw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOc+-dzZJgtt6hbHJsDBWAFJyip6tC4t_bVA2gaW5s++CuKAFw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1367437562.52770.YahooMailNeo@web164906.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Don't understand why you wouldn't want him in the garage with you while you
are working with toxic chemicals....! ;-)

Dan D
'76 B
'65 B
Central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: Richard Lindsay
<richardolindsay at gmail.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net; mg-t at autox.team.net 
Sent:
Wednesday, May 1, 2013 2:53 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Shortest note ever...
 

No TD
work done today.  Grandbaby sitting.

-rick
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From crk at godblessthe.us  Wed May  1 17:29:29 2013
From: crk at godblessthe.us (Clayton Kirkwood)
Date: Wed, 1 May 2013 16:29:29 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Stripping paint, uggg.
In-Reply-To: <CAOc+-dxr-xypB9A3EKrxZ4F-SqJMVAW-Qp3SA4NS-ebkOFY4kQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOc+-dyOF6D-baa=i5ZWFQVR_3aX_Lwkvvxs8M-54C-4=9A8nQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<1367351827.3337.YahooMailNeo@web164903.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<58953.184.243.177.109.1367373159.squirrel@wm.wi.net>
	<00cf01ce4695$10931870$31b94950$@us>
	<CAOc+-dxr-xypB9A3EKrxZ4F-SqJMVAW-Qp3SA4NS-ebkOFY4kQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <010c01ce46c3$ba9d4880$2fd7d980$@us>

Well, it was good prose:>) What I was meaning to get out, was, the can says
the chemicals used can not be made unposionous and therefore, care must be
used in it's disposal. When you put it on the paint, it loosens the paint
and apparently you can wipe it off. But does it stay a poisounous compound
requiring special handling at the local garbage dump, or does it evaporate
and therefore is no longer a nasty thing?

crk


-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Lindsay [mailto:richardolindsay at gmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2013 11:51 AM
To: crk at godblessthe.us
Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Stripping paint, uggg.

Yes, after about 5 minutes, I scrape the part with a putty knife, wiping the
goo onto a paper towel.  I then usually wipe the piece with a town moistened
in lacquer thinner, leaving anything on the surface of the metal to
evaporate.  I then sand the part with sandpaper and or the wire wheel in a
drill.  I then spray the part with Restomotive's Metal Ready.  Once dry, the
part can then be primered (I use an etch or rust neutralizing primer),
followed by body filler to even out any rust dimples and to smooth the
surface.

When I first read your note I thought you meant; What do you do with the
stripped off paint and stripper?  I keep a roll of paper towels handy and
wipe the scraped-off goo from my putty knife on the paper.
That then goes into the trash.

Did I answer your question, or just write some words?

-rick

On Wed, May 1, 2013 at 12:55 PM, Clayton Kirkwood <crk at godblessthe.us>
wrote:
> What do you guys do with the left over stripper? Does it dry? I know 
> that it is not capable of being neutralized.
>
> Crk

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Wed May  1 18:38:17 2013
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (dwoerpel)
Date: Wed, 01 May 2013 19:38:17 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Stripping paint, uggg.
In-Reply-To: <00cf01ce4695$10931870$31b94950$@us>
References: <CAOc+-dyOF6D-baa=i5ZWFQVR_3aX_Lwkvvxs8M-54C-4=9A8nQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<1367351827.3337.YahooMailNeo@web164903.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<58953.184.243.177.109.1367373159.squirrel@wm.wi.net>
	<00cf01ce4695$10931870$31b94950$@us>
Message-ID: <5181B579.9080508@wi.net>

Shoulda mentioned that.  The plane was jacked up with 4 layers of heavy 
plastic under it.  It had a 12" lip around the perimeter to catch the 
rinsed stripper which was then pumped into drums to be disposed.  This 
was the 80's  and precautions were taken even then.  Only a small area 
was stripped at a time.  It was rather a mess, however.

So, there's my previous occupation..."stripper".

DW


On 5/1/2013 12:55 PM, Clayton Kirkwood wrote:
> What do you guys do with the left over stripper? Does it dry? I know that it
> is not capable of being neutralized.
>
> Crk
>
>
> This Week's 'Non Compos Mentis' Award: "Being in Watertown right now, the
> streets are empty. It's erie. It's as though a bomb had dropped somewhere."
> --CNN's star reporter Susan Candiotti on the scene during the man-hunt for
> the Boston bomber
> another mind like a steel trap
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of dwoerpel at wi.net
> Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2013 6:53 PM
> Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Stripping paint, uggg.
>
> Could be worse Rick!  5 of us restored the EAA's B-25 back in the 80's.  It
> had been in "Catch 22" and had 7 coats of paint and rubberized backing
> insulation on the interior.  Got it done with
> 350 gal. of methylene chloride and 6 months of Wednesday evenings and full
> Saturdays.  It's a messy job but somebody's got to do it....all part of the
> fun.
>
> Car is going to be great!
>
> Dave W.

From mike at duvallvideo.com  Thu May  2 15:39:34 2013
From: mike at duvallvideo.com (Duvall Video Productions)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 16:39:34 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 72, Issue 2
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1367517601.32674.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1.1367517601.32674.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <D0C49B7A-7194-4477-ABD5-224247E4EEFC@duvallvideo.com>

You lucky if all comes up after 5 minutes....




On May 2, 2013, at 1:00 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> Yes, after about 5 minutes, I scrape the part with a putty knife, wiping
the
> goo onto a paper towel.  I then usually wipe the piece with a town
moistened
> in lacquer thinner, leaving anything on the surface of the metal to
> evaporate.  I then sand the part with sandpaper and or the wire wheel in a
> drill.  I then spray the part with Restomotive's Metal Ready.  Once dry,
the
> part can then be primered (I use an etch or rust neutralizing primer),
> followed by body filler to even out any rust dimples and to smooth the
> surface.

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Thu May  2 16:40:38 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 17:40:38 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] tank straps, spare carrier, seat back mount
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dyAaO4gpi-bDHSPvXRMqRCLm_WFpqSC8oTwP9RNS+9-Zw@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Friends,

Today I did a little work in the garage.  Specifically, I refinished
the spare tire carrier and the fuel tank straps.  That said,
'refinished' is a little too strong.  The bits have been stripped of
paint and rust, and primered awaiting paint.  I also worked on the
seat back attachments from the inner rear fenders.  Yes, they are
supposed to be chrome but the chrome is trashed.  Therefore, I
stripped and primered them.  I can always replace these with new
chrome units.

As a reminder, here's how the spare carrier and tank straps looked,
just after removing the spare.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1174.JPG

Once removed and on the workbench, the paint was stripped.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130430_142757.jpg

And here's how it looks after the paint was stripped, the rust sanded
away and a nice coat of primer added.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130502_165920.jpg

The clamp-mounts at the bottom have been cleaned and the bolts
freshened.  The wheel mounting studs are wrapped with masking tape.
The license plate lamp wiring has not been replaced but is in hand, as
is a new plate lamp assembly.  Some PO had installed an aftermarket
light.  That unit is now in the trash.  Once the spare tire frame is
painted, I'll pull in the new wiring and mount the lamp.

Here's a look at the fuel tank straps.  One has been primered, the
other stripped, sanded and ready for primer.  The threaded studs on
the bottom ends have had their threads cleaned and new nuts are now
spun on, awaiting reassembly.  And yes, one stud is bent.  I'll decide
later if its worth the risk of breaking, to straighten it.

Here's the final picture for today.  Its of the seat back attachments
on the rear inner wheel wells.  When I took the picture, the primer
was still wet.  These bits were chromed but the chrome was flaking off
with lots of rust.  After cleaning the brackets on the wire wheel, I
primered them in anticipation of painting either gloss or wrinkle
black.  I may change them out for new chrome units but for now, they
will be fresh and attractive.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130502_161826.jpg

And that concludes today's work.

-rick

From awhitema at panix.com  Thu May  2 20:34:44 2013
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 19:34:44 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] I'm getting too good at this.
Message-ID: <0EE6A265-0724-463C-9B50-AF3C21FDDDEA@panix.com>

3 Hours.

It only took three hours to replaces those damned seals at the base of the
windshield pillars.

If you recall a few weeks back, I asked if anybody had a source of seals that
would last. Nobody did, unfortunately. Since the last two sets lasted all of a
year each and were from Moss (who have no returns or complaints on this item,
FWIW), I went with TRF on the hopes that they used a different vendor.

They might. They're clearly smaller than the set I removed from the car and
have markings that the originals didn't.

A year from now, I'll know.

But hey, I removed and reinstalled the windshield in 3 hours. Including the
time to fish the socket I dropped out from under the radio. Add the bonus that
was "found the plug for the courtesy light, so the light turns on when I open
the door" and it was almost productive. Still, I could have spent those three
hours driving, or mountain biking, or...

--
Aaron

From enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk  Fri May  3 08:25:30 2013
From: enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk (Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 15:25:30 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGA front wheel bearing removal
In-Reply-To: <CAPx2zFFkRfQ3237wmLnZtHC4G+4JRB=RTYFYhR2zSg-SQ5SUOA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <6AE3F102-B903-44D9-9794-CA0FEB86A5BA@ece.rochester.edu><CD2DA2CF.42FB8%mvheim@sonic.net><201301300216.r0U2G9Su016315@nlpi176.prodigy.net><E1U0ZGo-0001Er-8P@theta.look.ca>
	<CAPx2zFFkRfQ3237wmLnZtHC4G+4JRB=RTYFYhR2zSg-SQ5SUOA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4D95A7E596FA43D3A4EC51E11676E9AC@TomVistaPC>

Hi Guys, any tips for removing the front bearings on an MGA disk brake
please?

Normally it would be a matter of drifting the bearing out from the back but
with the spacer in the hub between the front and rear bearing I can't get a
drift in.

Is it a case of drilling the bearing cage and pulling them out with a puller?

Many thanks

Tom

1960 MGA 1600 under restoration
1965 AH3000 BJ8
1987 Mini Park Lane

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Fri May  3 11:31:38 2013
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Fri, 03 May 2013 12:31:38 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA front wheel bearing removal
In-Reply-To: <4D95A7E596FA43D3A4EC51E11676E9AC@TomVistaPC>
References: <6AE3F102-B903-44D9-9794-CA0FEB86A5BA@ece.rochester.edu>
	<CD2DA2CF.42FB8%mvheim@sonic.net>
	<201301300216.r0U2G9Su016315@nlpi176.prodigy.net>
	<E1U0ZGo-0001Er-8P@theta.look.ca>
	<CAPx2zFFkRfQ3237wmLnZtHC4G+4JRB=RTYFYhR2zSg-SQ5SUOA@mail.gmail.com>
	<4D95A7E596FA43D3A4EC51E11676E9AC@TomVistaPC>
Message-ID: <201305031729.r43HTfPf022734@nlpi162.prodigy.net>

Push carefully on the inner race spacer to push the outer bearing out 
the outboard end of the hub.  If you use a hammer, tap gently and go 
slowly, not to damage the ball race.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com


At 03:25 PM 5/3/2013 +0100, Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd wrote:
>.... any tips for removing the front bearings on an MGA disk brake please?
>....

From awhitema at panix.com  Sat May  4 21:47:43 2013
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Sat, 4 May 2013 20:47:43 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Oil bummer
Message-ID: <80DEF434-FD14-43C0-94B2-95011D9083ED@panix.com>

Well. This was one way to put a damper on an otherwise nice 100 mile drive to
Spokane.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10200479511742513&l=67126cb95d

I think I'm going to make the oil pressure flexible hose a 2 or 3 year
preemptive replacement part. This could have been really really bad. I had no
oil on the dipstick when I was able to pull over.

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Sun May  5 08:14:34 2013
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Sun, 5 May 2013 15:14:34 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Oil bummer
References: <80DEF434-FD14-43C0-94B2-95011D9083ED@panix.com>
Message-ID: <77B32E99517E4E1AB968605EEADDEBF7@paul>

Is that showing a new braided oil gauge hose?  Or is that the failed one? 
In any event you are likely to get a lot more problems with new rubber than 
old.  Once my first heater valve failed the next one only lasted about five 
years, same as rear slaves.  The bottom hose and the oil gauge hose still on 
the roadster came with the car 23 years ago!

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I think I'm going to make the oil pressure flexible hose a 2 or 3 year
> preemptive replacement part. 

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun May  5 08:59:51 2013
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Sun, 05 May 2013 09:59:51 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Oil bummer
In-Reply-To: <77B32E99517E4E1AB968605EEADDEBF7@paul>
References: <80DEF434-FD14-43C0-94B2-95011D9083ED@panix.com>
	<77B32E99517E4E1AB968605EEADDEBF7@paul>
Message-ID: <518673E7.9070307@justbrits.com>

<< On 5/5/2013 9:14 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:

<snip>

The bottom hose and the oil gauge hose still on the roadster came with 
the car 23 years ago! >>

I agree with you on your prose in <snip>, Paul.

Is it safe to surmise that you have both those items in the boot every 
time you leave home <G> ? ? ?

Ed
Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com

From paul at ece.rochester.edu  Sun May  5 09:04:42 2013
From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Paul Osborne)
Date: Sun, 5 May 2013 11:04:42 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Oil bummer and OThers
In-Reply-To: <77B32E99517E4E1AB968605EEADDEBF7@paul>
References: <80DEF434-FD14-43C0-94B2-95011D9083ED@panix.com>
	<77B32E99517E4E1AB968605EEADDEBF7@paul>
Message-ID: <DFD86903-1BEC-49D2-9BE5-F13FC5EC5391@ece.rochester.edu>

Just like all of the new rubber parts , junk. the orig last , the new ones
crack or fall apart in a few years.

paulo
On May 5, 2013, at 10:14 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:

> Is that showing a new braided oil gauge hose?  Or is that the failed one? In
any event you are likely to get a lot more problems with new rubber than old.
Once my first heater valve failed the next one only lasted about five years,
same as rear slaves.  The bottom hose and the oil gauge hose still on the
roadster came with the car 23 years ago!
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> I think I'm going to make the oil pressure flexible hose a 2 or 3 year
>> preemptive replacement part.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paul at ece.rochester.edu

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Sun May  5 09:21:48 2013
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Sun, 5 May 2013 16:21:48 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Oil bummer
References: <80DEF434-FD14-43C0-94B2-95011D9083ED@panix.com><77B32E99517E4E1AB968605EEADDEBF7@paul>
	<518673E7.9070307@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <422BC9EDCCD34C72AD15F7A670E34890@paul>

I've been carrying spare hoses since I had one fail (not an MG) well over 30 
years ago, ditto fan belt on the same car.  Not had to use either ... yet!!

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Is it safe to surmise that you have both those items in the boot every
> time you leave home <G> ? ? ?

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun May  5 09:38:57 2013
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Sun, 05 May 2013 10:38:57 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Oil bummer and OThers
In-Reply-To: <DFD86903-1BEC-49D2-9BE5-F13FC5EC5391@ece.rochester.edu>
References: <80DEF434-FD14-43C0-94B2-95011D9083ED@panix.com>
	<77B32E99517E4E1AB968605EEADDEBF7@paul>
	<DFD86903-1BEC-49D2-9BE5-F13FC5EC5391@ece.rochester.edu>
Message-ID: <51867D11.60906@justbrits.com>

<< On 5/5/2013 10:04 AM, Paul Osborne wrote:

.....the new ones crack or fall apart in a few years. >>

Whilst true Paul, at least we HAVE them AND "can" plan to re-place/re-build <G> ! ! !

Ed
Please visit MY site at:					
www.justbrits.com

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun May  5 09:52:50 2013
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Sun, 05 May 2013 10:52:50 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Oil bummer
In-Reply-To: <422BC9EDCCD34C72AD15F7A670E34890@paul>
References: <80DEF434-FD14-43C0-94B2-95011D9083ED@panix.com><77B32E99517E4E1AB968605EEADDEBF7@paul>
	<518673E7.9070307@justbrits.com>
	<422BC9EDCCD34C72AD15F7A670E34890@paul>
Message-ID: <51868052.5010409@justbrits.com>

<< On 5/5/2013 10:21 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
> Not had to use either ... yet!!  >>

Forget the "yet" Paul, it is hardly NEVER that the spare you carry are 
needed <G> -
it is what you DON'T have that's needed.  LOL ! ! !

BTDT !

BTW and I have NOT checked it out <G>:

If you take the hose adpator-to-block out, on a 6 cyl. Healey a BOLT 
may be sub'ed <G> ! !
BTDT also ! ! !

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

PS:  For EVERYBODY ! !  Paul, you will notice you ONLY get ONE (1) of 
this reply ! ! !
        It IS BECAUSE I "Edit" the "To:, CCto: &/or BCCto:" box ! ! ! !
        EVERYONE SHOULD ! ! !
PPS:  And the Footer SHOULD be removed from Replys/Forwards ! ! ! 
"Someday"
          MJB might just turn the "bounce switch" back ON and mails 
WILL get bounced<G> !
         Right Mark ? ? ?

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Sun May  5 10:01:47 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 5 May 2013 11:01:47 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Oil bummer and OThers
In-Reply-To: <51867D11.60906@justbrits.com>
References: <80DEF434-FD14-43C0-94B2-95011D9083ED@panix.com>
	<77B32E99517E4E1AB968605EEADDEBF7@paul>
	<DFD86903-1BEC-49D2-9BE5-F13FC5EC5391@ece.rochester.edu>
	<51867D11.60906@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dx8JUCEao3ZevP-TVqVGC1iQ-r+19aGyHaF3u-XY_X3zQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Ed, Paul, et al.,

Anyone using silicone hoses on M.G.s?  The Ferrari community switched
over to silicone a number of years back.  As for belts; A good Gates
belt, not over tightened, and free from oil (Yea, right!) should last
a very long time.  Then again, 'long time' is relative.  Ferrari
recommends belt changes - especially the timing belts - every 3-4
years or 30,000 miles.  Speaking (writing?) as one who BROKE a cam
belt on a Ferrari V8 engine, the costs of Ferrari engine repairs are
insane!  The fan belt on my TR3 is at least 15 years old.  Hoses are
new.  My M.G.TD will get the generic hoses and belts.  They're already
in the new parts box waiting.

-rick

On Sun, May 5, 2013 at 10:38 AM, " Just Brits " Shop <shop at justbrits.com> wrote:
>
> << On 5/5/2013 10:04 AM, Paul Osborne wrote:
>
> .....the new ones crack or fall apart in a few years. >>
>
> Whilst true Paul, at least we HAVE them AND "can" plan to
> re-place/re-build <G> ! ! !
>
> Ed
> Please visit MY site at:
> www.justbrits.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richardolindsay at gmail.com

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Sun May  5 12:22:46 2013
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Sun, 05 May 2013 13:22:46 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Oil bummer
In-Reply-To: <80DEF434-FD14-43C0-94B2-95011D9083ED@panix.com>
References: <80DEF434-FD14-43C0-94B2-95011D9083ED@panix.com>
Message-ID: <201305051821.r45ILJFL027772@nlpi176.prodigy.net>

In 1986 I installed a Teflon lined oil pressure hose form Moss 
Motors, life-time guarantee.  It is still hanging in there 27 years 
and 1/4 million miles later (same as the two fuel hoses at the 
carburetors).  Teflon is good stuff in contact with 
petrochemicals.  It predates but survives our switch to 10% ethanol fuel.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.cmo


At 08:47 PM 5/4/2013 -0700, Aaron Whiteman wrote:
>Well. This was one way to put a damper on an otherwise nice 100 mile 
>drive to Spokane.
>
>https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10200479511742513&l=67126cb95d
>
>I think I'm going to make the oil pressure flexible hose a 2 or 3 
>year preemptive replacement part. This could have been really really 
>bad. I had no oil on the dipstick when I was able to pull over.

From geoffeg at geoffeg.org  Sun May  5 13:44:40 2013
From: geoffeg at geoffeg.org (Geoffrey Gallaway)
Date: Sun, 5 May 2013 14:44:40 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Looking for a garage in the St. Louis, MO area
Message-ID: <CA+-zyTjfec8u08QHVLDW9k8EAV1rziTOh48_O19WAZz5QgE5iw@mail.gmail.com>

Hello,

I have a '69 MG B GT that needs a place to stay for a while until I can
gather the funds to finish her restoration. Does anyone have a spare spot
in their garage it can use? Bonus points if I can visit her, maybe do a few
minor repairs here and there as I get time+money.

Please email geoffeg at geoffeg.org directly (off-list).

Thanks,
Geoff

From awhitema at panix.com  Sun May  5 19:16:22 2013
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Sun, 5 May 2013 18:16:22 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Oil bummer
In-Reply-To: <77B32E99517E4E1AB968605EEADDEBF7@paul>
References: <80DEF434-FD14-43C0-94B2-95011D9083ED@panix.com>
	<77B32E99517E4E1AB968605EEADDEBF7@paul>
Message-ID: <9AB1F4AD-5F47-4882-ACD7-74E4CCA6A228@panix.com>

On May 5, 2013, at 7:14 AM, PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com> wrote:

> Is that showing a new braided oil gauge hose?  Or is that the failed one? In
any event you are likely to get a lot more problems with new rubber than old.
Once my first heater valve failed the next one only lasted about five years,
same as rear slaves.  The bottom hose and the oil gauge hose still on the
roadster came with the car 23 years ago!

Sorry, was busy with Bloomsday (the reason I went to Spokane), so I couldn't
reply earlier.

The braided hose was the failed one. It failed right at the end that attaches
to the hard line to the gauge, and was spilling/spraying oil out down the line
and forward into the engine compartment.  All Four spark plug lines were
soaked, as was all the wiring for the heater fan, windscreen washer, the oil
filter, even the back of the alternator got a little.

All and all, I lost 3 quarts of oil and a little bit of trust in the car,
which is unfortunate. This hose was less than 13 years old, as I replaced the
previous one some time during the time I've owned it. I could look it up, I
suspect 2005 or so.

Does anybody sell a non-braided hose? Or are there any reasons to not go to
the local farm store and have them make me a line that might use materials
that hold up to their intended purpose?

At the moment, the engine side is capped, so I have no gauge, but also no
leaking hose.

--
Aaron

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Mon May  6 01:51:35 2013
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 08:51:35 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Oil bummer
References: <80DEF434-FD14-43C0-94B2-95011D9083ED@panix.com>
	<77B32E99517E4E1AB968605EEADDEBF7@paul>
	<9AB1F4AD-5F47-4882-ACD7-74E4CCA6A228@panix.com>
Message-ID: <67581E00DA7F4C45A852FAB847BB6833@paul>

How old was it?  It looks new, must have been faulty or very poor 
manufacture.  Where did it come from?

----- Original Message ----- 
The braided hose was the failed one. 

From awhitema at panix.com  Mon May  6 07:06:33 2013
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 06:06:33 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Oil bummer
In-Reply-To: <67581E00DA7F4C45A852FAB847BB6833@paul>
References: <80DEF434-FD14-43C0-94B2-95011D9083ED@panix.com>
	<77B32E99517E4E1AB968605EEADDEBF7@paul>
	<9AB1F4AD-5F47-4882-ACD7-74E4CCA6A228@panix.com>
	<67581E00DA7F4C45A852FAB847BB6833@paul>
Message-ID: <B60A8E75-9A6D-47A0-97B3-803DB36CD6F3@panix.com>

Sent from my iPhone

On May 6, 2013, at 12:51 AM, "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com> wrote:

> How old was it?  It looks new, must have been faulty or very poor
manufacture.  Where did it come from?

It was somewhere between 4 and 13 years old. I may have a receipt in my
records, but I haven't started looking yet. I would have gotten it from moss.

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Mon May  6 09:50:41 2013
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Mon, 06 May 2013 10:50:41 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Oil bummer
In-Reply-To: <201305051821.r45ILJFL027772@nlpi176.prodigy.net>
References: <80DEF434-FD14-43C0-94B2-95011D9083ED@panix.com>
	<201305051821.r45ILJFL027772@nlpi176.prodigy.net>
Message-ID: <5187D151.5020007@ktc.com>

That's the hose I used when I built the engine in my B over 5 yrs ago.  
So far, so good.

CR
On 5/5/2013 1:22 PM, Barney Gaylord wrote:
> In 1986 I installed a Teflon lined oil pressure hose form Moss Motors, 
> life-time guarantee.  It is still hanging in there 27 years and 1/4 
> million miles later (same as the two fuel hoses at the carburetors).  
> Teflon is good stuff in contact with petrochemicals.  It predates but 
> survives our switch to 10% ethanol fuel.
>
> Barney Gaylord
> 1958 MGA with an attitude
> http://MGAguru.cmo

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Mon May  6 10:04:22 2013
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Mon, 06 May 2013 11:04:22 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Oil bummer
In-Reply-To: <201305051821.r45ILJFL027772@nlpi176.prodigy.net>
References: <80DEF434-FD14-43C0-94B2-95011D9083ED@panix.com>
	<201305051821.r45ILJFL027772@nlpi176.prodigy.net>
Message-ID: <5187D486.2010303@ktc.com>

That's the hose I used when I built the engine in my B over 5 yrs ago. 
So far, so good.

CR

EDIT:  Checked my records;  I built that engine in 1999, so that Teflon 
lined hose has been on there ~14 yrs. Lord, where did all those years go?


On 5/5/2013 1:22 PM, Barney Gaylord wrote:
> In 1986 I installed a Teflon lined oil pressure hose form Moss Motors,
> life-time guarantee.  It is still hanging in there 27 years and 1/4
> million miles later (same as the two fuel hoses at the carburetors).
> Teflon is good stuff in contact with petrochemicals.  It predates but
> survives our switch to 10% ethanol fuel.
>
> Barney Gaylord
> 1958 MGA with an attitude
> http://MGAguru.cmo

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Mon May  6 10:46:33 2013
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 09:46:33 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Nice weather has brought out the classic cars in the UK
Message-ID: <CAEUYfyN3M0V0SiHyPiWTGpnHGxhCAF-k3MmVs4u6NEEkApGOYw@mail.gmail.com>

I landed at Heathrow airport yesterday and drove to my Father's house in
the Midlands (a few miles north of Birmingham). On the way, I saw:
1. MGB -- about a '78, I think (G reg). Saw that before I had left
Heathrow.
2. Reliant Scimitar (haven't seen one of those for a long time)
3. 2 or 3  pre-war race cars. Didn't get a good look to see what they were
but could have been MGs.
4. A 3-wheeler, probably a Morgan.
5. 2 Hillman Imps. Both on the M40 near the Heritage Motor  museum.
6. Also, just past the Heritage museum,  a Clan Crusader (I think) (was
there an Imp meeting at the museum?)
7. Shelby Cobra (probably a replica).
8. Triumph Stag.
9. Healey 30000
10. 2 or 3 VW based Dune/Beach Buggies.

All were seen in the space of a few hours.

Simon

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon May  6 11:16:08 2013
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 10:16:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Nice weather has brought out the classic cars in the  UK
In-Reply-To: <CAEUYfyN3M0V0SiHyPiWTGpnHGxhCAF-k3MmVs4u6NEEkApGOYw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAEUYfyN3M0V0SiHyPiWTGpnHGxhCAF-k3MmVs4u6NEEkApGOYw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1367860568.21025.YahooMailNeo@web164906.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Wow! I don't think I've seen that variety of cars on ANY day outside of a
show... I did see a white Spitfire in North Andover, MA on
Saturday.... He
earned a toot from the Audi's horn...


Dan D
'76 B
'65 B
Central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: Simon Matthews
<simon.d.matthews at gmail.com>
To: MGS <mgs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, May
6, 2013 12:46 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Nice weather has brought out the classic cars
in the UK
 

I landed at Heathrow airport yesterday and drove to my Father's
house in
the Midlands (a few miles north of Birmingham). On the way, I saw:
1.
MGB -- about a '78, I think (G reg). Saw that before I had left
Heathrow.
2.
Reliant Scimitar (haven't seen one of those for a long time)
3. 2 or 3 
pre-war race cars. Didn't get a good look to see what they were
but could have
been MGs.
4. A 3-wheeler, probably a Morgan.
5. 2 Hillman Imps. Both on the
M40 near the Heritage Motor  museum.
6. Also, just past the Heritage museum, 
a Clan Crusader (I think) (was
there an Imp meeting at the museum?)
7. Shelby
Cobra (probably a replica).
8. Triumph Stag.
9. Healey 30000
10. 2 or 3 VW
based Dune/Beach Buggies.

All were seen in the space of a few hours.

Simon
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From mgbob at juno.com  Mon May  6 12:35:52 2013
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 18:35:52 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] Nice weather has brought out the classic cars in the UK
Message-ID: <20130506.143552.2405.2@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com>

   A good day for sightings.   CT MG Club had 21 MGBs and an MGA at our annual
Cinco de Mayo celebration, yesterday, (Mexican celebration day, not
Hellman's), and the leader took the pack over hill and dale for some 51 miles
from the morning rendezvous.Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
To: Simon Matthews <simon.d.matthews at gmail.com>, MGS  <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Nice weather has brought out the classic cars in the  UK
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 10:16:08 -0700 (PDT)

Wow! I don't think I've seen that variety of cars on ANY day outside of a
show... I did see a white Spitfire in North Andover, MA on
Saturday.... He
earned a toot from the Audi's horn...

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Mon May  6 12:53:43 2013
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 11:53:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Nice weather has brought out the classic cars in the  UK
In-Reply-To: <CAEUYfyN3M0V0SiHyPiWTGpnHGxhCAF-k3MmVs4u6NEEkApGOYw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAEUYfyN3M0V0SiHyPiWTGpnHGxhCAF-k3MmVs4u6NEEkApGOYw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1367866423.25584.YahooMailNeo@web163906.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

  From: Simon Matthews <simon.d.matthews at gmail.com>


> I landed at Heathrow
airport yesterday and drove to my Father's house in
> the Midlands (a few
miles north of Birmingham). On the way, I saw:
> 1. MGB -- about a '78, I
think (G reg). Saw that before I had left
> Heathrow.
> 2. Reliant Scimitar
(haven't seen one of those for a long time)
> 3. 2 or 3  pre-war race cars.
Didn't get a good look to see what they were
> but could have been MGs.
> 4. A
3-wheeler, probably a Morgan.
> 5. 2 Hillman Imps. Both on the M40 near the
Heritage Motor  museum.
> 6. Also, just past the Heritage museum,  a Clan
Crusader (I think) (was
> there an Imp meeting at the museum?)
> 7. Shelby
Cobra (probably a replica).
> 8. Triumph Stag.
> 9. Healey 30000
> 10. 2 or 3
VW based Dune/Beach Buggies.
> 
> All were seen in the space of a few hours.
Spectacular weather this weekend in the Puget Sound area.  Temperature
yesterday reached 80, and that's more like July weather for us.  I
had my MGA
out on the road both days but didn't see any other British
sports cars.  Lots
of Mustangs, Camaros, Corvettes, etc, though.

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Mon May  6 15:46:52 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 16:46:52 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Sand, repair, primer
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dxzdLGtAfEFkEz-fPdAVGDeh+=-QWEHQ3UKi7LMLAMuxQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hello Friends,

Back in the garage today.  Yesterday we took the new grandson (and his
parents) to the Houston Polish Festival.  Great fun.  Great food.
Lots of music and dancing.

In the garage this morning my first quest was to remove the hinges
from the side curtain door.  One of the hinges was broken off, the
other so rusty that it would barely move.  I'll replace the hinges
with generic units.  The T-nuts are ruined but are easily replaced
from the bins at Ace hardware.

Here's how the door looks at the hinge point.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130506_103051.jpg

The wood will be repaired, redrilled to match the new hinges, and then
new T-nuts will be installed.  Only then will the door be recovered.

Next step was to remove the right front wing.  Fortunately, it came
off with only a minimal fight.  After that, the bolts holding the
radiator shell to the radiator frame were removed.  Some cake out
without much trouble.  Three had to be drilled out.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130506_105932.jpg

The rear lip of the radiator shell has been abused, all around, but
will be easily repaired with a little hammer and dolly work.

I then moved on to the windscreen mount area where the metal was rust
pitted.  Here's how it looked right after removing the windscreen.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1090.JPG

The paint was stripped and the area was then sanded down to bare metal.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1255.JPG

And then the rust pitted area was coated with Metal Ready then when
dry and cleaned again, it was painted with POR15.  I know there are
various arguments about POR15 but I have had GREAT luck using it under
paint.  After the POR15 cured, I added a tiny bit of body filler to
infill the divots left by the rust.  Yes, most of the damage is under
the windscreen hardware but I did put the mount in place and verified
that the damage was exposed ahead of the mount.  After sanding the
filler down to the metal contour leaving filler in the divots, I
sprayed it with primer - still wet in this picture.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130506_104944.jpg

Moving a bit down and aft, I cleaned and primered the the left front
and left rear sides of the tub.  The sill still needs sanding and a
little more work.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1269.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1271.JPG

Some work is still needed at the leaded joint at the top of the
B-post.  A little careful application of body filler will reshape this
area.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1270.JPG

In that previous picture you can see the inner wheelwell undercoated
with POR15, awaiting sanding and primer.

Before moving back to the workbench to clean things up and put freshly
removed parts in baggies, I cleaned and primered the top of the dash.
Here's how it looks as the first coat of primer begins drying.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1268.JPG

I did do one other test.  A kind listmember told me that the nasty
looking fuel filler would polish up nicely.  Here's a before and after
pair of pictures.  The 'after' picture is has not been polished at
this stage, just cleaned!

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1116.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1273.JPG

This work is not the final solution but the primer is a layer of
protection while working on the rest of the tub.  Once all the rusty
bolts are out, I'll lift the tub from the chassis.  Until then, I need
to put order back in the garage...and that's what I'll go do now.

-rick

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Mon May  6 17:06:02 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 18:06:02 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Define 'contrast'...
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dz2oyaHGk3sxPzQda7LWSuCeFbRjonDcqXQEogiiWfDwg@mail.gmail.com>

'Contrast' defined!

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130506_173608.jpg

-rick

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Tue May  7 04:02:20 2013
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 11:02:20 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Nice weather has brought out the classic cars in the  UK
References: <CAEUYfyN3M0V0SiHyPiWTGpnHGxhCAF-k3MmVs4u6NEEkApGOYw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <01590E9EC71841FD80A3C18B586D1635@paul>

You see more than me then when I'm driving around that area.  I used to see 
a few MGBs and MGFs used as daily drivers, but rarely these days.  Sunny 
Sunday mornings when I could expect to see like-minded people enjoying the 
highways and byways also seem to be in the past, these days it's just knots 
of cyclists often being inconsiderate if not offensive.

On another tack it's also noticeable how many MGFs/TFs are for sale on the 
owners mag for less than #3k, one for #500 this month.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>I landed at Heathrow airport yesterday and drove to my Father's house in
> the Midlands (a few miles north of Birmingham). On the way, I saw:

From shop at justbrits.com  Tue May  7 09:00:36 2013
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Tue, 07 May 2013 10:00:36 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Nice weather has brought out the classic cars in the UK
In-Reply-To: <01590E9EC71841FD80A3C18B586D1635@paul>
References: <CAEUYfyN3M0V0SiHyPiWTGpnHGxhCAF-k3MmVs4u6NEEkApGOYw@mail.gmail.com>
	<01590E9EC71841FD80A3C18B586D1635@paul>
Message-ID: <51891714.8060607@justbrits.com>

<< On 5/7/2013 5:02 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
these days it's just knots of cyclists often being inconsiderate if 
not offensive. >>

The UK is NOT alone in the above, Paul  ! ? !

There is one chap (not gent) that stops in my local.  One afternoon 
last late spring he came in an
elbowed his way to the bar between a pal of mine and I that were just 
sitting there having a pint.

So over the din I said rather loudly:  "Bob, how many pedaller points 
you get today?"

He replied: "None, damnit !  Didn't even see any of the arrogant 
bastards (L'dOL).  You??".

Got almost lucky, got 4 points, two down in the grass ! !" !  I went 
on:  "The ass-holes were wheel-
to-wheel and in-line in the CENTER of my lane.  I recognized one of 
them by his spandex <G> so I
'started' to pass - got back of my passenger door even with leader's 
front wheel and gave a good
tug to the right to my steering wheel <G>.  The one I recognized 
already had guessed what was up so
he yelled to his partner and THEY 'tugged to the right' and headed for 
the wild grass/weeds.  That stuff dislikes pedallers worse than me & 
Bob <VBG> so OFF the bikes and go for a skid on their faces/chests <G>."

So Bob says: "Ed, you should get 6 points."  I replied: "No, no, Bob.  
Would have been 6 "IF" they had
landed on tarmac and then skidded into the grass/weeds !".  Bob 
replied: "Damn, forgot.  I guess
'cause I never been lucky enough to get a two-fer !".

So the chap had apparently had enough and said:  "You guys are real 
pricks !   We have legal rights
to ride the roadways with cars."

Bob nodded to me so I said to him:  "yep, you sure do BUT you are 
required to OBEY The Rules of
The Road exactly like motor vehicles."

He got a REAL bad look & frown and just put his pint down (with 2/3rds 
left<G>) and left ! ! !

Bob and I started to LAUGH !s ! !   We were laughing so hard that the 
bartender came over and asked
why.  So Bob gave him a short version of above and he started to laugh 
but not hard enough to forget
to buy us a pint ON THE HOUSE <VBG> ! ! !

The forgoing IS a True story except no biker actually went down nor 
were any hurt (damnit) <G> ! ! !

Ed

PS:  Also Paul, ours are extremely ARROGANT ! ! !

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Tue May  7 10:24:48 2013
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 09:24:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Nice weather has brought out the classic cars in the UK
In-Reply-To: <01590E9EC71841FD80A3C18B586D1635@paul>
References: <CAEUYfyN3M0V0SiHyPiWTGpnHGxhCAF-k3MmVs4u6NEEkApGOYw@mail.gmail.com>
	<01590E9EC71841FD80A3C18B586D1635@paul>
Message-ID: <1367943888.21772.YahooMailNeo@web163906.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

 From: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>

>On another tack it's also
noticeable how many MGFs/TFs are for sale on the 
>owners mag for less than
#3k, one for #500 this month.

Have they hit the 25-year mark yet?  I wonder
what it costs
to ship one to the US.

From ddarby at centurytel.net  Tue May  7 10:59:24 2013
From: ddarby at centurytel.net (David F. Darby)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 11:59:24 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Nice weather has brought out the classic cars in the  UK
In-Reply-To: <1367943888.21772.YahooMailNeo@web163906.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <CAEUYfyN3M0V0SiHyPiWTGpnHGxhCAF-k3MmVs4u6NEEkApGOYw@mail.gmail.com><01590E9EC71841FD80A3C18B586D1635@paul>
	<1367943888.21772.YahooMailNeo@web163906.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1EA430F2FA8F420A9134B56A3C78FC28@YOURF3E40984A8>

I think the oldest ones are from 1995.

David

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of David Breneman
Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2013 11:25 AM
To: PaulHunt73; Simon Matthews; MGS
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Nice weather has brought out the classic cars in the UK

 From: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>

>On another tack it's also
noticeable how many MGFs/TFs are for sale on the 
>owners mag for less than
#3k, one for #500 this month.

Have they hit the 25-year mark yet?  I wonder
what it costs
to ship one to the US.

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Tue May  7 13:19:41 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 14:19:41 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Some work on the grill
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dxt56TRzsNUcou8=Rz4QaKnRzmoMyZasyrm4onBwbbrdQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Friends,

Today I picked up a lot of clutter in the garage and rebuilt the
radiator shell and grill.  That wasn't my intent this morning, but its
the work that got done.  Pictures follow.

The work started with polishing part of the radiator shell, just as a
test.  Here's how it looked.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1274.JPG

Here are a few pictures of the radiator after the shell and screen
were removed.  These were taken as an aid to reassembly.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1275.JPG

Obviously the grill was resprayed turquoise while in place.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1276.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1277.JPG

Here's how the shell looked, partially polished, sitting on the garage floor.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1278.JPG

Careful disassembly allowed the grill to be removed without damage to
the grill, the studs or the brass nuts.  Here's how the grill looks on
the bench.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1281.JPG

Here is the grill, now coated with paint stripper.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1282.JPG

Once stripped of paint and the rust sanded away, the grill was
primered with Rusoleum Rusty Metal Primer.  The primer is beginning to
dry in this picture.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1283.JPG

Here's another look with a second coat of primer.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1285.JPG

Here's the grill with the first coat of paint - an SEM  color to match
the Honey Tan interior.  In this case, the think coat of red primer is
still showing through the paint.  It got another couple of coats,
leaving it a good match for the leather..

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130507_120026.jpg

And finally, here is the shell and grill, all refinished and reassembled.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1286.JPG

Once there is a super thin coat of black paint on the radiator, the
grill will look great.

And now I just realized that I have tan paint under a couple of
fingernails.  Poo.  Hole in the glove.

Happy Tuesday!

-rick

From awhitema at panix.com  Tue May  7 18:38:00 2013
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 17:38:00 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Oil bummer
In-Reply-To: <B60A8E75-9A6D-47A0-97B3-803DB36CD6F3@panix.com>
References: <80DEF434-FD14-43C0-94B2-95011D9083ED@panix.com>
	<77B32E99517E4E1AB968605EEADDEBF7@paul>
	<9AB1F4AD-5F47-4882-ACD7-74E4CCA6A228@panix.com>
	<67581E00DA7F4C45A852FAB847BB6833@paul>
	<B60A8E75-9A6D-47A0-97B3-803DB36CD6F3@panix.com>
Message-ID: <D6B53B73-7CF2-488A-BE21-372EED5BE87E@panix.com>

On May 6, 2013, at 6:06 AM, Aaron Whiteman <awhitema at panix.com> wrote:

> It was somewhere between 4 and 13 years old. I may have a receipt in my
> records, but I haven't started looking yet. I would have gotten it from
moss.

I didn't find the receipt, but I found a record that indicated the previous
hose had failed in May 2002. So the one that just failed was installed at that
time. I suppose I can't complain too much about 11 years of service.

I had the local guys that the farmers trust for hydraulics make me a new one.
They re-used the ends and fitted new hose and clamps, so I'm back to normal
now. In had them save the old hose, so I got a chance to look at it. After
removing the braided steel cover, as long as the rubber hose are held
straight, it looks good (and holds pressure when I stick my finger on one end
and blow into the other). But as I change the hose into the curved shape it
has when installed, it rapidly shows significant cracking and no longer holds
air.

The new one is made of much more substantial materials and has no braiding to
hide what's going on. Needless to say, I have a new "check" item as part of my
maintenance routines.

--

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Tue May  7 19:02:09 2013
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Tue, 07 May 2013 20:02:09 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Oil bummer
In-Reply-To: <D6B53B73-7CF2-488A-BE21-372EED5BE87E@panix.com>
References: <80DEF434-FD14-43C0-94B2-95011D9083ED@panix.com>
	<77B32E99517E4E1AB968605EEADDEBF7@paul>
	<9AB1F4AD-5F47-4882-ACD7-74E4CCA6A228@panix.com>
	<67581E00DA7F4C45A852FAB847BB6833@paul>
	<B60A8E75-9A6D-47A0-97B3-803DB36CD6F3@panix.com>
	<D6B53B73-7CF2-488A-BE21-372EED5BE87E@panix.com>
Message-ID: <201305080102.r48129Wi002700@nlpi176.prodigy.net>

Only 11 years?  Fooey.  If MTBF (Mean Time Between Failures) of every 
part on the car was 11 years, you would be fixing something that 
failed almost daily.  I want parts that will last 50 years or more.

That is a very critical part with severe consequences when it 
fails.  When the oil is lost the crankshaft bearings may go away 
before you hear the loud knocking noises, by which time it is too 
late and very expensive to repair the damaged crankshaft.

Go for the Teflon lined hose.

$.03,

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com


At 05:38 PM 5/7/2013 -0700, Aaron Whiteman wrote:
>On May 6, 2013, at 6:06 AM, Aaron Whiteman <awhitema at panix.com> wrote:
>
> > It was somewhere between 4 and 13 years old. I may have a receipt in my
> > records, but I haven't started looking yet. I would have gotten it from
>moss.
>
>I didn't find the receipt, but I found a record that indicated the previous
>hose had failed in May 2002. So the one that just failed was installed at that
>time. I suppose I can't complain too much about 11 years of service.
>
>I had the local guys that the farmers trust for hydraulics make me a new one.
>They re-used the ends and fitted new hose and clamps, so I'm back to normal
>now. In had them save the old hose, so I got a chance to look at it. After
>removing the braided steel cover, as long as the rubber hose are held
>straight, it looks good (and holds pressure when I stick my finger on one end
>and blow into the other). But as I change the hose into the curved shape it
>has when installed, it rapidly shows significant cracking and no longer holds
>air.
>
>The new one is made of much more substantial materials and has no braiding to
>hide what's going on. Needless to say, I have a new "check" item as part of my
>maintenance routines.

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Wed May  8 14:37:44 2013
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Wed, 08 May 2013 15:37:44 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Oil bummer
In-Reply-To: <001e01ce4c15$1eb22a60$5c167f20$@planet.nl>
References: <80DEF434-FD14-43C0-94B2-95011D9083ED@panix.com>
	<77B32E99517E4E1AB968605EEADDEBF7@paul>
	<9AB1F4AD-5F47-4882-ACD7-74E4CCA6A228@panix.com>
	<67581E00DA7F4C45A852FAB847BB6833@paul>
	<B60A8E75-9A6D-47A0-97B3-803DB36CD6F3@panix.com>
	<D6B53B73-7CF2-488A-BE21-372EED5BE87E@panix.com>
	<201305080102.r48129Wi002700@nlpi176.prodigy.net>
	<001e01ce4c15$1eb22a60$5c167f20$@planet.nl>
Message-ID: <201305082037.r48KbT6m004525@nlpi176.prodigy.net>

Opinions, as a matter of personal preference, are worth $.02
Opinions based on groundless speculation or rumor are worth $.01
Opinions well founded from the School Of Hard Knocks are worth $.03

Barney


At 07:54 PM 5/8/2013 +0200, Hans Duinhoven wrote:
>Barney,
>
>You've become quite expensive!
>Used to be 2 cents if I remember it well....
>....


>-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
>Barney Gaylord
>8 mei 2013 3:02
>....
>
>Only 11 years?  Fooey.  If MTBF (Mean Time Between Failures) of every part
>on the car was 11 years, you would be fixing something that failed almost
>daily.  I want parts that will last 50 years or more.
>....
>Go for the Teflon lined hose.
>
>$.03,
>
>Barney Gaylord
>1958 MGA with an attitude
>http://MGAguru.com


>At 05:38 PM 5/7/2013 -0700, Aaron Whiteman wrote:
> >On May 6, 2013, at 6:06 AM, Aaron Whiteman <awhitema at panix.com> wrote:
> >....
> >I didn't find the receipt, but I found a record that indicated the
> >previous hose had failed in May 2002. So the one that just failed was
> >installed at that time. I suppose I can't complain too much about 11 years
>of service.
> >....

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Wed May  8 15:59:13 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 8 May 2013 16:59:13 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel tank removal
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dw=9z2gmFLdsRQPSBD9xPTH+CY7CKXVKWcbsmECC+ndiQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Friends,

Today I removed the fuel tank from my TD.  The tank is sound but has a
coating of surface rust.  Inside its pretty clean and it doesn't leak.

Step one was draining the gallon or so of nasty old fuel.  My wife
HATES the smell of old gasoline so I did that job while she was out
for coffee with a friend.  After the tank was empty, by removing the
drain plug, I removed the fuel outlet assembly.  The filter is
completely plugged.  I'll soak it in carb cleaner to see if it will
clean up acceptably well.  More on that later.

I also removed the fuel level switch and found that it wouldn't move.
That's a project for another day.  I'll report back on that later
also.

Here's a look at the tank, laying in the driveway, washed inside and
out with soap and water.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130508_141523.jpg

Once it dries on the outside, I'll route my shop-vac's output air into
the tank until it dries thoroughly.  Then I'll look in the tank
carefully with my bore scope and decide if it needs to be coated.  I
have a Moss kit, if needed.

Here's how the rear of the car looks with the tank removed.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130508_141536.jpg

I have since stripped the paint from the metal on the tub.  In this
picture, I had not yet sanded the metal but have since done so.  Its
currently drying with a coat of MetalReady on it, neutralizing rust.
Here's how it looked after the first strip.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130508_150441.jpg

I don't plan on stripping the wood or removing the the tank pads.
I'll just sand the wood, mask the pads, primer and paint.

And that's it for Wednesday.  Fun work on the bench coming, fixing the
fuel sensor and the fuel outlet filter.  Woohoo.

-rick

From steve at coastaldatasystems.com  Wed May  8 17:42:39 2013
From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-Fisher)
Date: Wed, 8 May 2013 19:42:39 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Oil bummer
In-Reply-To: <201305080102.r48129Wi002700@nlpi176.prodigy.net>
References: <80DEF434-FD14-43C0-94B2-95011D9083ED@panix.com>
	<77B32E99517E4E1AB968605EEADDEBF7@paul>
	<9AB1F4AD-5F47-4882-ACD7-74E4CCA6A228@panix.com>
	<67581E00DA7F4C45A852FAB847BB6833@paul>
	<B60A8E75-9A6D-47A0-97B3-803DB36CD6F3@panix.com>
	<D6B53B73-7CF2-488A-BE21-372EED5BE87E@panix.com>
	<201305080102.r48129Wi002700@nlpi176.prodigy.net>
Message-ID: <036901ce4c45$ba6d4220$2f47c660$@com>

My memory could be failing me but I believe in aircraft similar hoses have a
7 year lifespan - at that point they are supposed to be replaced. However,
it is not a requirement. I've had my B since '84, still has the same hoses.
Next service I may pull and inspect them.

--
Stephen West-Fisher
N4IK

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Barney Gaylord
Sent: Tuesday, May 7, 2013 9:02 PM
To: Aaron Whiteman
Cc: Mgs at autox.team.net List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil bummer

Only 11 years?  Fooey.  If MTBF (Mean Time Between Failures) of every part
on the car was 11 years, you would be fixing something that failed almost
daily.  I want parts that will last 50 years or more.

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Thu May  9 09:18:50 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 10:18:50 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Back of the tub
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dzf=i1WoFMmS6OS2Y8wCJfdH+uwfPS6zwPMmevkP_2gdA@mail.gmail.com>

Hello Friends,

First of all today, I wish to express my thanks to all the folks who
have written to me offering advice and encouragement.  Thank you!  You
are the BEST.

I now write to share a few pictures of the refinishing of the rear of
the tub.  I'm doing as much work as possible with the tub still on the
frame, so as to protect fragile metal and preserve alignment.  Here's
how the back of the tub looked after removing the fuel tank.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130508_141536.jpg

Everything is structurally strong, but there is quite a bit of surface
rust on the tub near where the top of the tank aligns.  Along the
right rear, there is also a strip of surface rust, obvious in the
picture.

Here is the same area with the paint stripped, but before sanding.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130508_150441.jpg

Before closing down work yesterday, I sanded and sprayed the bare
metal with MetalReady to coat the remaining rust with zinc.  First
thing this morning, I washed down the metal to remove deposits left
behind from the MetalReady, and dried the metal with a heat gun.
Later this morning I put a coat of primer on the metal and a thin coat
on the wood, just to encourage adhesion of the paint.

The rusty bits were primered with rusty metal primer while the bare
metal was painted with regular automotive primer.  Here's how it
looked, right after the primers were applied.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130509_080143.jpg

And here's a look at the left rear corner with the primer drying.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130509_080156.jpg

I took this picture about an hour later.  The regular primer has dried
but the anti-rust primer dries much more slowly.  You can easily see
where the rusty metal primer was applied.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130509_093433.jpg

Here's that sale left rear corner with the primers mostly dried.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130509_093444.jpg

Here's another picture of the left rear tub, above the rear wing.
This is going to paint NICELY.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130509_093451.jpg

Moving on, here's how the tank looks, now that it has been washed out
with soap and water.  That is not the final solution but rather, it is
the process to make the tank a 'container', not a 'bomb'!

Michael Balahutrak (PopeyMike) shared with me a great technique for
restoring the tank.  I'll follow his advice and report the progress.
Thank you Mike!

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130509_093638.jpg

Off now to play with the grandson. :-)

-rick

From montejane at gmail.com  Thu May  9 10:00:29 2013
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte Jane Morris)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 11:00:29 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] points
Message-ID: <CAHEsxHpRc9=HXskU0hMbQ0oSCx4QMtzUZQrAZ2zWXGQK6T5PFg@mail.gmail.com>

I have an inductive timing light and a dwell meter. I need to determine
when my points are open or closed. Can I use one of the above to do this
and if so, how?

Where exactly do I hook the alligator clips to use each one?


Thanks,
Monte 79B with points dizzy

From aekell at aol.com  Thu May  9 10:14:45 2013
From: aekell at aol.com (Alan Kellogg)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 12:14:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Help Connecticut TD project needs completion
In-Reply-To: <CAOc+-dw=9z2gmFLdsRQPSBD9xPTH+CY7CKXVKWcbsmECC+ndiQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOc+-dw=9z2gmFLdsRQPSBD9xPTH+CY7CKXVKWcbsmECC+ndiQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8D01AE7746284C0-D2C-4B117@webmail-vd013.sysops.aol.com>

Hello, I am looking for recommendations for body shop or other to help
complete restoration of a TD.  Rolling chassis is completed. Body is off in
pieces so requires prep and painting, maybe some minor dent repair and
re-assembly on frame.  Any suggestions appreciated.

Alan Kellogg

From strovato at optonline.net  Thu May  9 10:30:28 2013
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 12:30:28 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Help Connecticut TD project needs completion
In-Reply-To: <8D01AE7746284C0-D2C-4B117@webmail-vd013.sysops.aol.com>
References: <CAOc+-dw=9z2gmFLdsRQPSBD9xPTH+CY7CKXVKWcbsmECC+ndiQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<8D01AE7746284C0-D2C-4B117@webmail-vd013.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <0MMJ00AL2HV9GP20@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

Automotive Restorations in Stratford, CT does very nice work.  It is 
a large shop with a lot of skilled people.  Brooklands Engineering 
Works, also in Stratford, is at the opposite end of the spectrum.  It 
is a small shop run by Jim Perman.  Jim is meticulous and does very 
nice work as well.  Unfortunately, neither of these like to work for 
free, so expect to spend some significant money.

-Steve Trovato
strovato at optonline.net


At 12:14 PM 5/9/2013, Alan Kellogg wrote:
>Hello, I am looking for recommendations for body shop or other to help
>complete restoration of a TD.  Rolling chassis is completed. Body is off in
>pieces so requires prep and painting, maybe some minor dent repair and
>re-assembly on frame.  Any suggestions appreciated.
>
>Alan Kellogg

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Thu May  9 10:32:55 2013
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 09:32:55 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] points
In-Reply-To: <CAHEsxHpRc9=HXskU0hMbQ0oSCx4QMtzUZQrAZ2zWXGQK6T5PFg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAHEsxHpRc9=HXskU0hMbQ0oSCx4QMtzUZQrAZ2zWXGQK6T5PFg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CACOF-TomyhDbquokQS0uW45Esb3GLhvaXq7rsVMqc1roQYmCXQ@mail.gmail.com>

Is the dwell meter analog or digital?


On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 9:00 AM, Monte Jane Morris <montejane at gmail.com>wrote:

> I have an inductive timing light and a dwell meter. I need to determine
> when my points are open or closed. Can I use one of the above to do this
> and if so, how?
>
> Where exactly do I hook the alligator clips to use each one?
>
>
> Thanks,
> Monte 79B with points dizzy
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From strovato at optonline.net  Thu May  9 10:48:06 2013
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 12:48:06 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] points
In-Reply-To: <CAHEsxHpRc9=HXskU0hMbQ0oSCx4QMtzUZQrAZ2zWXGQK6T5PFg@mail.g
	mail.com>
References: <CAHEsxHpRc9=HXskU0hMbQ0oSCx4QMtzUZQrAZ2zWXGQK6T5PFg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0MMJ00BC0IOG1Q20@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

Check out this video on static timing an MG:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hpp67aqwM2Y

For what you want to do, it might be possible to use a dwell meter, 
depending on the settings available, but a simple test light is 
easier.    Light on = points closed.  Light off = points open.

-Steve Trovato
strovato at optonline.net

At 12:00 PM 5/9/2013, Monte Jane Morris wrote:
>I have an inductive timing light and a dwell meter. I need to determine
>when my points are open or closed. Can I use one of the above to do this
>and if so, how?
>
>Where exactly do I hook the alligator clips to use each one?

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Thu May  9 10:53:46 2013
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 11:53:46 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] points
In-Reply-To: <CAHEsxHpRc9=HXskU0hMbQ0oSCx4QMtzUZQrAZ2zWXGQK6T5PFg@mail.g
	mail.com>
References: <CAHEsxHpRc9=HXskU0hMbQ0oSCx4QMtzUZQrAZ2zWXGQK6T5PFg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <201305091653.r49GrXPV019539@nlpi176.prodigy.net>

Youi need a test light.  Very cheap tool.  See here:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/tools/ts129.htm

The contact points are switching the coil wire to ground.  With 
ignition on, when points are open there will be power on the wire 
from coil to distributor.  When points are closed the wire is 
grounded and will have no power, 0-volts, no light.

Alternately, you can disconnect the wire from coil to distributor, 
connect the test light to a live power source (lower fuse for 
instance), and touich the ptobe to the distributor terminal.  When 
points are closed it complets the circuit to ground, and youie get light.

You can also test points with an ohm meter connected between the 
distributor input terminal and ground on the engine block.  With 
points open it will read 50-megaohms (open circuit).  With points 
closed it should read 0-ohms (short to ground).  Resistance with 
points closed should never be higher tham 1/4-ohm 
(250-milliohms).  If resistance is too high you need to clean the 
contact points or fix a faulty connection.  It couid be corroded 
points, or a dirty wire connector, or bad contact between distributor 
body and engine block.


At 11:00 AM 5/9/2013 -0500, Monte Jane Morris wrote:
>I have an inductive timing light and a dwell meter. I need to 
>determine when my points are open or closed. Can I use one of the 
>above to do this and if so, how?
>
>Where exactly do I hook the alligator clips to use each one?
>....

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Thu May  9 11:07:29 2013
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 10:07:29 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] points
In-Reply-To: <0MMJ00BC0IOG1Q20@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
References: <CAHEsxHpRc9=HXskU0hMbQ0oSCx4QMtzUZQrAZ2zWXGQK6T5PFg@mail.gmail.com>
	<0MMJ00BC0IOG1Q20@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Message-ID: <CACOF-TpD7meh5j0xY2wV4opFY+TaJD7n7AbCqs2BWq2s-ramnw@mail.gmail.com>

Steve said:

>
>   Light on = points closed.  Light off = points open.
>
>
>> Barney said:
>>The contact points are switching the coil wire to ground.  With ignition
on, when points are open there will be power on the wire from coil to
distributor.  When points are closed the wire is grounded and will have no
power, 0-volts, no light.

One of these is not like the other.  :-)
You can use a dwell meter if you don't have a test light.  With the points
closed, the meter will read 0 degrees of dwell, with the points open it
will read 90 degrees.

From montejane at gmail.com  Thu May  9 11:33:06 2013
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte Jane Morris)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 12:33:06 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] points
In-Reply-To: <CACOF-TomyhDbquokQS0uW45Esb3GLhvaXq7rsVMqc1roQYmCXQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAHEsxHpRc9=HXskU0hMbQ0oSCx4QMtzUZQrAZ2zWXGQK6T5PFg@mail.gmail.com>
	<CACOF-TomyhDbquokQS0uW45Esb3GLhvaXq7rsVMqc1roQYmCXQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAHEsxHpNir98Tb=KCDE=60VY4EsawJJBGw3CLH7Sdu6Jd3yxug@mail.gmail.com>

It's analog.


On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 11:32 AM, Richard Ewald <richard.ewald at gmail.com>wrote:

> Is the dwell meter analog or digital?
>
>
> On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 9:00 AM, Monte Jane Morris <montejane at gmail.com>wrote:
>
>> I have an inductive timing light and a dwell meter. I need to determine
>> when my points are open or closed. Can I use one of the above to do this
>> and if so, how?
>>
>> Where exactly do I hook the alligator clips to use each one?
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Monte 79B with points dizzy
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From strovato at optonline.net  Thu May  9 11:43:36 2013
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 13:43:36 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] points
In-Reply-To: <CACOF-TpD7meh5j0xY2wV4opFY+TaJD7n7AbCqs2BWq2s-ramnw@mail.g
	mail.com>
References: <CAHEsxHpRc9=HXskU0hMbQ0oSCx4QMtzUZQrAZ2zWXGQK6T5PFg@mail.gmail.com>
	<0MMJ00BC0IOG1Q20@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
	<CACOF-TpD7meh5j0xY2wV4opFY+TaJD7n7AbCqs2BWq2s-ramnw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0MMJ00EP1L8SB8S0@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

We are both right!  Read the rest of Barney's post and you will see 
the next thing he says is:

Alternately, you can disconnect the wire from coil to distributor, 
connect the test light to a live power source (lower fuse for 
instance), and touch the probe to the distributor terminal.  When 
points are closed it completes the circuit to ground, and you get light.

This is the method shown in the video.

-Steve

At 01:07 PM 5/9/2013, Richard Ewald wrote:



>Steve said:
>
>   Light on = points closed.  Light off = points open.
>
>
>Barney said:
> >>The contact points are switching the coil wire to ground.  With 
> ignition on, when points are open there will be power on the wire 
> from coil to distributor.  When points are closed the wire is 
> grounded and will have no power, 0-volts, no light.
>
>One of these is not like the other.  :-)

From montejane at gmail.com  Thu May  9 11:55:29 2013
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte Jane Morris)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 12:55:29 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] points
In-Reply-To: <CAHEsxHpNir98Tb=KCDE=60VY4EsawJJBGw3CLH7Sdu6Jd3yxug@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAHEsxHpRc9=HXskU0hMbQ0oSCx4QMtzUZQrAZ2zWXGQK6T5PFg@mail.gmail.com>
	<CACOF-TomyhDbquokQS0uW45Esb3GLhvaXq7rsVMqc1roQYmCXQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAHEsxHpNir98Tb=KCDE=60VY4EsawJJBGw3CLH7Sdu6Jd3yxug@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAHEsxHqP85cPNt1aVxmikgZCWn9cbNAYtEnbfpk5oRMOmeK84A@mail.gmail.com>

OK, Thanks.  I do have a test light!
Monte


On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 12:33 PM, Monte Jane Morris <montejane at gmail.com>wrote:

> It's analog.
>
>
> On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 11:32 AM, Richard Ewald <richard.ewald at gmail.com>wrote:
>
>> Is the dwell meter analog or digital?
>>
>>
>> On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 9:00 AM, Monte Jane Morris <montejane at gmail.com>wrote:
>>
>>> I have an inductive timing light and a dwell meter. I need to determine
>>> when my points are open or closed. Can I use one of the above to do this
>>> and if so, how?
>>>
>>> Where exactly do I hook the alligator clips to use each one?
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Monte 79B with points dizzy
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Thu May  9 13:50:57 2013
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 14:50:57 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Nice weather has brought out the classic cars in the  UK
In-Reply-To: <1367943888.21772.YahooMailNeo@web163906.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <CAEUYfyN3M0V0SiHyPiWTGpnHGxhCAF-k3MmVs4u6NEEkApGOYw@mail.gmail.com>
	<01590E9EC71841FD80A3C18B586D1635@paul>
	<1367943888.21772.YahooMailNeo@web163906.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <518BFE21.5090306@ktc.com>

I don't know if you could get a safety sticker on one.  Getting is 
smogged, fer instance.:-(

CR
On 5/7/2013 11:24 AM, David Breneman wrote:
>   From: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>
>
>> On another tack it's also
> noticeable how many MGFs/TFs are for sale on the
>> owners mag for less than
> #3k, one for #500 this month.
>
> Have they hit the 25-year mark yet?  I wonder
> what it costs
> to ship one to the US.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Thu May  9 16:49:16 2013
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 17:49:16 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Oil bummer
In-Reply-To: <518C219C.3000606@cox.net>
References: <80DEF434-FD14-43C0-94B2-95011D9083ED@panix.com>
	<77B32E99517E4E1AB968605EEADDEBF7@paul>
	<9AB1F4AD-5F47-4882-ACD7-74E4CCA6A228@panix.com>
	<67581E00DA7F4C45A852FAB847BB6833@paul>
	<B60A8E75-9A6D-47A0-97B3-803DB36CD6F3@panix.com>
	<D6B53B73-7CF2-488A-BE21-372EED5BE87E@panix.com>
	<201305080102.r48129Wi002700@nlpi176.prodigy.net>
	<518C219C.3000606@cox.net>
Message-ID: <201305092249.r49MnthP023749@nlpi162.prodigy.net>

I don't know if the current Moss oil signal hose is Teflon lined.  It 
doesn't say that in the catalog listing.  Time to ask Moss.  Got your 
ears up, Kelvin?

It seems like such a trivial thing to do in production, and shouldn't 
add much to the cost of the raw hose (compared to total cost of 
manufacturing the hose assembly).  However, while fuel hoses run 
under 10 psi, the oil hoses run up to 100 psi, and hydraulic clutch 
hose runs about 250 psi, and brake hoses more like 500 psi.  Brake 
hoses have thick wall and very small bore size (which is okay for 
very low flow rate).  Clutch hose has larger bore for higher flow 
rate (for quick clutch return).  Fuel hoses have much larger bore and 
thinner wall.  These are all different creatures, so they don't 
necessarily all come from the same production factory.


At 03:22 PM 5/9/2013 -0700, you wrote:
>....
>I looked for that hose in the Moss catalog and don't see it. Do you 
>happen to know the part number?
>....


>On 5/7/2013 6:02 PM, Barney Gaylord wrote:
>>Only 11 years?  Fooey.  If MTBF (Mean Time Between Failures) of 
>>every part on the car was 11 years, you would be fixing something 
>>that failed almost daily.  I want parts that will last 50 years or more.
>>
>>That is a very critical part with severe consequences when it fails.
>>When the oil is lost the crankshaft bearings may go away before you 
>>hear the loud knocking noises, by which time it is too late and 
>>very expensive to repair the damaged crankshaft.
>>
>>Go for the Teflon lined hose.
>>....

From awhitema at panix.com  Thu May  9 17:37:58 2013
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 16:37:58 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Oil bummer
In-Reply-To: <201305092249.r49MnthP023749@nlpi162.prodigy.net>
References: <80DEF434-FD14-43C0-94B2-95011D9083ED@panix.com>
	<77B32E99517E4E1AB968605EEADDEBF7@paul>
	<9AB1F4AD-5F47-4882-ACD7-74E4CCA6A228@panix.com>
	<67581E00DA7F4C45A852FAB847BB6833@paul>
	<B60A8E75-9A6D-47A0-97B3-803DB36CD6F3@panix.com>
	<D6B53B73-7CF2-488A-BE21-372EED5BE87E@panix.com>
	<201305080102.r48129Wi002700@nlpi176.prodigy.net>
	<518C219C.3000606@cox.net>
	<201305092249.r49MnthP023749@nlpi162.prodigy.net>
Message-ID: <C3365C9E-2E37-4868-9320-D2765C250843@panix.com>

On May 9, 2013, at 3:49 PM, Barney Gaylord <barneymg at mgaguru.com> wrote:

> I don't know if the current Moss oil signal hose is Teflon lined.  It
doesn't say that in the catalog listing.  Time to ask Moss.  Got your ears up,
Kelvin?

Certainly the one that failed in my car was not.

> It seems like such a trivial thing to do in production, and shouldn't add
much to the cost of the raw hose (compared to total cost of manufacturing the
hose assembly).  However, while fuel hoses run under 10 psi, the oil hoses run
up to 100 psi, and hydraulic clutch hose runs about 250 psi, and brake hoses
more like 500 psi.  Brake hoses have thick wall and very small bore size
(which is okay for very low flow rate).  Clutch hose has larger bore for
higher flow rate (for quick clutch return).  Fuel hoses have much larger bore
and thinner wall.  These are all different creatures, so they don't
necessarily all come from the same production factory.

The hose that failed on my car is a single-walled unreinforced rubber tube
that was then covered in braided steel. The outside diameter is 5/16", with a
1/16" thick wall (3/16" inner diameter).

I've posted a picture here:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7325/8723754053_7662f98784_c.jpg
(or larger version:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7325/8723754053_13e399e196_o.jpg)

I was actually pretty shocked at how small the tube was under that steel mesh.
Fuel line, even the stuff that is designed for carbs instead of FI has
significantly more structure.

--
Aaron

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Fri May 10 02:04:23 2013
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 09:04:23 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Oil bummer
References: <80DEF434-FD14-43C0-94B2-95011D9083ED@panix.com><77B32E99517E4E1AB968605EEADDEBF7@paul><9AB1F4AD-5F47-4882-ACD7-74E4CCA6A228@panix.com><67581E00DA7F4C45A852FAB847BB6833@paul><B60A8E75-9A6D-47A0-97B3-803DB36CD6F3@panix.com><D6B53B73-7CF2-488A-BE21-372EED5BE87E@panix.com><201305080102.r48129Wi002700@nlpi176.prodigy.net><518C219C.3000606@cox.net><201305092249.r49MnthP023749@nlpi162.prodigy.net>
	<C3365C9E-2E37-4868-9320-D2765C250843@panix.com>
Message-ID: <659F9D6D8F2743ED8474DB0CDEEE4516@paul>

I have to say, mesh reinforced or not, I'm not surprised it failed 
considering it needs to take at least 80psi.  My 73 roadster all-rubber 
hose, which is quite possibly original as it is identical in appearance to 
my 75 V8 hose, is just over 1/2" OD and just over 1/8" ID i.e. a wall 
thickness of about 3/8" i.e. six times yours!  As a pal recently had a gauge 
hose failure, although in his case it was a pin-hole in the body, I've been 
looking at alternatives given the age of mine.  Steveson 
http://www.stevsonmotors.co.uk/oilpressurepipes&hoses.html do both rubber 
based and Teflon for competition, but with the Teflon only being #12 to the 
#7 for rubber it would seem foolish not to pay the extra fiver, even though 
their rubber-based come from Cohline of Germany who are OE suppliers to 
Mercedes, BMW, Porsche etc.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> The hose that failed on my car is a single-walled unreinforced rubber tube
> that was then covered in braided steel. The outside diameter is 5/16", 
> with a
> 1/16" thick wall (3/16" inner diameter).

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Fri May 10 06:03:05 2013
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 05:03:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Help Connecticut TD project needs completion
In-Reply-To: <8D01AE7746284C0-D2C-4B117@webmail-vd013.sysops.aol.com>
References: <CAOc+-dw=9z2gmFLdsRQPSBD9xPTH+CY7CKXVKWcbsmECC+ndiQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<8D01AE7746284C0-D2C-4B117@webmail-vd013.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <1368187385.33153.YahooMailNeo@web164904.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

I recommend Rick Lindsey's shop in Houston ;-)

Dan D
'65B
'76B
central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: Alan Kellogg <aekell at aol.com>
To:
mgs at autox.team.net; mg-t at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, May 9, 2013 12:14 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Help Connecticut TD project needs completion
 

Hello, I am
looking for recommendations for body shop or other to help
complete
restoration of a TD.  Rolling chassis is completed. Body is off in
pieces so
requires prep and painting, maybe some minor dent repair and
re-assembly on
frame.  Any suggestions appreciated.

Alan Kellogg
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From tink5775 at gmail.com  Fri May 10 06:12:22 2013
From: tink5775 at gmail.com (Jim Tinkham)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 08:12:22 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Help Connecticut TD project needs completion
In-Reply-To: <1368187385.33153.YahooMailNeo@web164904.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <CAOc+-dw=9z2gmFLdsRQPSBD9xPTH+CY7CKXVKWcbsmECC+ndiQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<8D01AE7746284C0-D2C-4B117@webmail-vd013.sysops.aol.com>
	<1368187385.33153.YahooMailNeo@web164904.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAMTc-phBFymgg5dEiZoRSJ9tE09=BWL4N-OR9UykdLTM0Z3Yeg@mail.gmail.com>

East Coast Collision and Restoration in Mt Holly VT does outstanding work.
They've been at Stowe the last few years with some of their in progress
projects.  Talk to Jason, you won't be disappointed with anything he does.

http://www.eastcoastcollisionandrestoration.com/

On Fri, May 10, 2013 at 8:03 AM, Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com> wrote:

> I recommend Rick Lindsey's shop in Houston ;-)
>
> Dan D
> '65B
> '76B
> central NJ USA
> ________________________________
>  From: Alan Kellogg <aekell at aol.com>
> To:
> mgs at autox.team.net; mg-t at autox.team.net
> Sent: Thursday, May 9, 2013 12:14 PM
> Subject: [Mgs] Help Connecticut TD project needs completion
>
>
> Hello, I am
> looking for recommendations for body shop or other to help
> complete
> restoration of a TD.  Rolling chassis is completed. Body is off in
> pieces so
> requires prep and painting, maybe some minor dent repair and
> re-assembly on
> frame.  Any suggestions appreciated.
>
> Alan Kellogg
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate:
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive:
> http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/tink5775 at gmail.com

From ddarby at centurytel.net  Fri May 10 07:35:55 2013
From: ddarby at centurytel.net (David F. Darby)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 08:35:55 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Help Connecticut TD project needs completion
In-Reply-To: <1368187385.33153.YahooMailNeo@web164904.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <CAOc+-dw=9z2gmFLdsRQPSBD9xPTH+CY7CKXVKWcbsmECC+ndiQ@mail.gmail.com><8D01AE7746284C0-D2C-4B117@webmail-vd013.sysops.aol.com>
	<1368187385.33153.YahooMailNeo@web164904.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AB05DF5515AA4D02A0C3849292E10ADC@YOURF3E40984A8>

Hear, hear!

DFD

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Dan DiBiase
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 7:03 AM
To: Alan Kellogg; mgs at autox.team.net; mg-t at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Help Connecticut TD project needs completion

I recommend Rick Lindsey's shop in Houston ;-)

Dan D
'65B
'76B

From d.mckinnie at usa.net  Fri May 10 14:18:07 2013
From: d.mckinnie at usa.net (Douglas McKinnie)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 16:18:07 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Nice weather has brought out the classic cars in the  UK
Message-ID: <792ReJuRH5136S02.1368217087@web02.cms.usa.net>

>I don't know if you could get a safety sticker on one. Getting is
>smogged, fer instance.:-(

>> On another tack it's also
> noticeable how many MGFs/TFs are for sale on the
>> owners mag for less than
> #3k, one for #500 this month.
>
> Have they hit the 25-year mark yet? I wonder
> what it costs
> to ship one to the US.

MG RV8 introduced in 1992, so they hit the 25-year mark in 2017
MGF introduced in 1995, so it hits the 25-year mark in 2020

I presume that the prices for both have fallen since Australia tightened up
their restrictions on classic imports.

Here is detail on how to get the car into the USA legally. Getting it legally
registered for road use in your own state is another problem -- easier in
some
than others:
https://help.cbp.gov/app/answers/detail/a_id/278/~/importing-classic-or-antiq
ue-vehicles-%2F-cars-for-personal-use

Douglas

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Sat May 11 01:42:41 2013
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 09:42:41 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Prewar MG makes lots of damage
Message-ID: <001801ce4e1b$1e4e3b10$5aeab130$@planet.nl>

http://www.telegraaf.nl/binnenland/21554335/__Oldtimer_rijdt_feesttent_in__.
html 

 

An MG 1938 drophead coupe made a lot of damage yesterday at a big historic
rally (over 600 people) event in the Netherlands.

Without the driver the MG started to drive and went into a big partytent.

In the tent several people were hit by the car. 

Some of these still are in hospital.

Weird thing was, that the driver was not behind the steering wheel.

 

Hope this does not mean, that MG's will get a bad name overhere.

 

Cheers,

Hans

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Sat May 11 03:07:27 2013
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 10:07:27 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Nice weather has brought out the classic cars in the UK
References: <792ReJuRH5136S02.1368217087@web02.cms.usa.net>
Message-ID: <719D698921EB473788F5638AB1CA7AFD@paul>

I doubt changes in Australian import rules would be the cause of the current 
low prices in the UK, they were sold new there from 1997.

http://www.goauto.com.au/mellor/mellor.nsf/ganews?readform&make=MG&model=MGF&start=2

----- Original Message ----- 
> I presume that the prices for both have fallen since Australia tightened 
> up
> their restrictions on classic imports.

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Sat May 11 03:15:49 2013
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 10:15:49 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Prewar MG makes lots of damage
References: <001801ce4e1b$1e4e3b10$5aeab130$@planet.nl>
Message-ID: <CA37880198694D5DA804284B5A53AA9D@paul>

Rolling or actually driving?  (I know, it would need a hill to roll, and 
this is Holland ...).  I've known a couple of cases where vehicles have 
started cranking themselves along when a fault developed in the starting 
system and the driver had left it in gear.  It's one of the reasons I've 
fitted battery cut-off switches to all my cars.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> An MG 1938 drophead coupe made a lot of damage yesterday at a big historic
> rally (over 600 people) event in the Netherlands.
>
> Without the driver the MG started to drive and went into a big partytent.

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Sat May 11 04:35:51 2013
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 11:35:51 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGB wiring harness
Message-ID: <23504C36E3864129B2116618083627AD@paul>

A pal has a harness for a 1969 but it seems to be for the ultra-rare 'Cyclops'
model!

The harness stops by the right-hand headlight, where there are six wires for
the lights plus two wires in a tail for the horns, there is nothing going
across the front of the car to the left-hand headlight.  He does have a
two-wire sub-harness which looks like it is for the second horn, which was
optional until 1970 so I can understand a sub-harness for that, but should
there be a sub-harness for the left-hand lighting as well?  That seems to make
no sense.

PaulH.

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Sat May 11 06:30:12 2013
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 14:30:12 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Prewar MG makes lots of damage
In-Reply-To: <CA37880198694D5DA804284B5A53AA9D@paul>
References: <001801ce4e1b$1e4e3b10$5aeab130$@planet.nl>
	<CA37880198694D5DA804284B5A53AA9D@paul>
Message-ID: <000901ce4e43$484219f0$d8c64dd0$@planet.nl>

Driving Paul. Somehow it seems the car did not want to start initially. So
the driver went out for a look at the front of the car - I assume under the
bonnet. Suddenly the car started to drive without the driver behind the
wheel.
A passenger still was sitting in his seat, but apparently could not prevent
the damage.

So your thoughts are not far away I think.
I leave my MG always in neutral, when I'm out of the GT.
A cut-off switch is a good extra to consider...

Cheers,
Hans


-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: PaulHunt73 [mailto:paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com] 
Verzonden: zaterdag 11 mei 2013 11:16
Aan: Hans Duinhoven; mgs at autox.team.net
Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Prewar MG makes lots of damage

Rolling or actually driving?  (I know, it would need a hill to roll, and
this is Holland ...).  I've known a couple of cases where vehicles have
started cranking themselves along when a fault developed in the starting
system and the driver had left it in gear.  It's one of the reasons I've
fitted battery cut-off switches to all my cars.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> An MG 1938 drophead coupe made a lot of damage yesterday at a big 
> historic rally (over 600 people) event in the Netherlands.
>
> Without the driver the MG started to drive and went into a big partytent.

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Sat May 11 07:01:59 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 08:01:59 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Prewar MG makes lots of damage
Message-ID: <hmp8fdslftg7imiu1fvf0wte.1368277319177@email.android.com>

Hey Paul, et al.,

Wouldn't a '37 have a mechanical starter switch like the T-Series cars? B Therefore, self starting could only happen if the switch was stuck 'almost' making AND the ignition was left on, OR, the car died when parked and the owner left the ignition switced on. B Only a small push, if in gear, could have started thr car! B Hummm...

-rick
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded corners, just like a BlackBerry.

-------- Original message --------
From: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com> 
Date: 05/11/2013  4:15 AM  (GMT-06:00) 
To: Hans Duinhoven <h.duinhoven at planet.nl>,mgs at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Prewar MG makes lots of damage 
 
Rolling or actually driving?B  (I know, it would need a hill to roll, and 
this is Holland ...).B  I've known a couple of cases where vehicles have 
started cranking themselves along when a fault developed in the starting 
system and the driver had left it in gear.B  It's one of the reasons I've 
fitted battery cut-off switches to all my cars.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> An MG 1938 drophead coupe made a lot of damage yesterday at a big historic
> rally (over 600 people) event in the Netherlands.
>
> Without the driver the MG started to drive and went into a big partytent.
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donationB  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richardolindsay at gmail.com

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Sat May 11 17:44:37 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 18:44:37 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Some work on the Cowl
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dwhCcWZ6cJecVAVT81SxHhkJdZOT=MP2SdP-kVH+8x5Aw@mail.gmail.com>

Hello Friends,

Spent some time in the garage today.  First of all, I got out all the
new parts that I bought back when Moss was having that big sale.  I
then paired them with the parts previously removed.  For example, I
had cleaned and refinished the seat-back attachments previously.  I
got those bits back out, selected bolts and nuts, and the all the new
chrome hardware I got on sale, and then put the assemblies into
'kits'.

I next sanded the body tub below the running board line, on the left
hand side.  I then primered it and once dry, filled the rubbley pits
will a thin film of body filler.  More on that in a minute.  While all
of that was drying and curing, I removed all the various bits from the
cowl.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130511_151418.jpg

I then cleaned those various mounts in preparation for repainting
black.  Here's how they look now, mostly cleaned up on the wire wheel.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130511_175552.jpg

Disclaimer:  I don't care for Starbucks politics, but the do make good coffee.

I then sanded the metal clean on the left hand side of the cowl, and
applied primer.  Its still drying in this picture, leading to the
mottled appearance in the photo.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130511_175607.jpg

I'll work my way across the cowl, cleaning and primering as I go.
Here's another look at the whole area.  The quarter ahead of the rear
wing mount still needs a little filler to bring the repair up to
level.  In this picture, the primer there was still drying.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130511_175625.jpg

And now, everything is resting - including me. The last picture is of
the VIN, from the left front frame horn: TD28464.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130510_140951.jpg

Tomorrow morning, after the Spanish F1 Grand Prix, I'll primer then
paint the various cowl brackets and the headlight dimmer switch.  I'll
then select new bolts and nuts to attach these bits and assemble them
into kits, awaiting reassembly.  Yea, I know its kinda OCD, but hey,
this IS a hobby.

Happy Saturday,

-rick

From mike at duvallvideo.com  Sun May 12 10:23:39 2013
From: mike at duvallvideo.com (Duvall Video Productions)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 11:23:39 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] oil pressure delay question
Message-ID: <D76C1E1A-7E3A-4DE8-8BB4-6917172C92A8@duvallvideo.com>

I've seen the subject of delayed startup oil pressure on here which I have
been experiencing on my 65 B.   I have had to turn it over without the choke
but it takes quite awhile to build up pressure-  15 seconds or so on running.

I'm using a WIX 51374 oil filter which is the filter for an the 75-80 B and it
fits nicely with the oil cooler and adapter.

This filter has the anti drain back valve and WIX filters are supposed to be
very high quality and use a teflon drain back valve which is touted as
better.

Any other causes of a delay in oil pressure?  I thought about it just being
air in the line but the knocking precludes that.

From don at napanet.net  Sun May 12 10:56:55 2013
From: don at napanet.net (Don)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 09:56:55 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] oil pressure delay question
In-Reply-To: <D76C1E1A-7E3A-4DE8-8BB4-6917172C92A8@duvallvideo.com>
References: <D76C1E1A-7E3A-4DE8-8BB4-6917172C92A8@duvallvideo.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.2311.1368377989.1864.mgs@autox.team.net>

On the subject of oil pressure delay . . .  My MGs have this issue to 
some extent, but at least I can monitor engine speed with the choke 
knob, and keep RPMs very low until I see the gauge begins showing oil pressure.

I have a '01 Miata with only 18k miles on the car.  If it sits for a 
few days, and I start it, the engine would race and I could hear all 
kinds of rattling going on.  I know it's lack of oil pressure causing 
this for a few moments.  It was a helpless feeling because I couldn't 
reduce RPMs since everything is automated.  I must have had some kind 
of psychic revelation or something, but I figured out a 
solution.  When I first crank the engine, I hold the gas pedal to the 
floor for a few moments and the engine does not fire.   Then I crank 
the car again but with my foot off the gas pedal.  It starts then, 
but has had oil pressure build up from the first cranking, because I 
don't get the rattling sounds now.  Not sure why the engine does not 
start with gas pedal to the floor, but I think this procedure will 
save my engine from an early demise.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Don Scott,  Calistoga CA USA
1955 MGTF, 1962 MGA Mk 2, 1967 MGB, 1963-7 MGB (seeking), Misc. Japanese cars  

From mgbob at juno.com  Sun May 12 11:02:11 2013
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 17:02:11 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] oil pressure delay question
Message-ID: <20130512.130211.18533.1@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>

Hi Mike,
   51068 is the one I use on my 1972 18V engine.  Though an inverted spin- on,
it seems to stay filled and I get pressure on the gauge with a second or two
of start-up, even after a couple of weeks inactivity.
   Is 51374 the filter recommended by maker of the spin-on adapter?
    Causes of low pressure can be worn rod bearings, worn mains, worn rocker
bushings and shaft, but slow pressure suggests something between pickup in the
sump and delivery to the bearings--screen, pump, relief valve, filter.  For
six bucks, I would look to the filter first.
Bob





---------- Original Message ----------
From: Duvall Video Productions <mike at duvallvideo.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] oil pressure delay question
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 11:23:39 -0500

I've seen the subject of delayed startup oil pressure on here which I have
been experiencing on my 65 B.   I have had to turn it over without the choke
but it takes quite awhile to build up pressure-  15 seconds or so on running.

I'm using a WIX 51374 oil filter which is the filter for an the 75-80 B and
it
fits nicely with the oil cooler and adapter.

This filter has the anti drain back valve and WIX filters are supposed to be
very high quality and use a teflon drain back valve which is touted as
better.

Any other causes of a delay in oil pressure?  I thought about it just being
air in the line but the knocking precludes that.
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com

From mike at duvallvideo.com  Sun May 12 12:05:48 2013
From: mike at duvallvideo.com (Duvall Video Productions)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 13:05:48 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] identifying spin on adapter for 65 B
Message-ID: <753D01FD-9E61-429B-9D87-37DBE6BDCCBB@duvallvideo.com>

Does anyone recognize this spin on oil filter adapter for a 65 B?   I can't
find the purchase information on it.


https://www.dropbox.com/sh/k0st24z4jl56hi7/EaA2lvINZj

From dannyvarnado at cox.net  Sun May 12 12:20:19 2013
From: dannyvarnado at cox.net (dannyvarnado at cox.net)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 14:20:19 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] oil pressure delay question
In-Reply-To: <D76C1E1A-7E3A-4DE8-8BB4-6917172C92A8@duvallvideo.com>
Message-ID: <20130512142019.A8I5V.283819.imail@eastrmwml301>

Has the engine been rebuilt? In the rebuild gasket set there are two different oil pump gaskets.  If the wrong one is used, it doesn't cover all of the holes causing a delay in the oil pump getting suction.  The result is a delay in establishing oil pressure. 

---- Duvall Video Productions <mike at duvallvideo.com> wrote: 
> I've seen the subject of delayed startup oil pressure on here which I have
> been experiencing on my 65 B.   I have had to turn it over without the choke
> but it takes quite awhile to build up pressure-  15 seconds or so on running.
> 
> I'm using a WIX 51374 oil filter which is the filter for an the 75-80 B and it
> fits nicely with the oil cooler and adapter.
> 
> This filter has the anti drain back valve and WIX filters are supposed to be
> very high quality and use a teflon drain back valve which is touted as
> better.
> 
> Any other causes of a delay in oil pressure?  I thought about it just being
> air in the line but the knocking precludes that.
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dannyvarnado at cox.net

From don at napanet.net  Sun May 12 12:34:20 2013
From: don at napanet.net (Don)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 11:34:20 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] oil pressure delay question
Message-ID: <mailman.2315.1368383839.1864.mgs@autox.team.net>

Has the engine been rebuilt? In the rebuild gasket set there are two 
different oil pump gaskets.  If the wrong one is used, it doesn't 
cover all of the holes causing a delay in the oil pump getting 
suction.  The result is a delay in establishing oil pressure.



I think if that gasket is the wrong one, there will be no oil 
pressure at all.  I rebuilt my '67 B GT engine years ago, and when I 
went to start the engine, no oil pressure.  I tried a lot of things 
to fix it, and finally took it apart only to discover that I had used 
the wrong oil pump gasket on assembly.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Don Scott,  Calistoga CA USA
1955 MGTF, 1962 MGA Mk 2, 1967 MGB, 1963-7 MGB (seeking), Misc. Japanese cars  

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun May 12 13:28:43 2013
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 14:28:43 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] oil pressure delay question
In-Reply-To: <D76C1E1A-7E3A-4DE8-8BB4-6917172C92A8@duvallvideo.com>
References: <D76C1E1A-7E3A-4DE8-8BB4-6917172C92A8@duvallvideo.com>
Message-ID: <518FED6B.9000604@justbrits.com>

<< On 5/12/2013 11:23 AM, Duvall Video Productions wrote:

but it takes quite awhile to build up pressure-  15 seconds or so on running. >>

That  is just "too long", Mike.

All you gents have missed something rather important, IMHO.

<quote>
...but the knocking precludes that.
</quote>

As in rod or main knock ??  spun a main bearing --- # 3 or 4 ??

There should be NO 'knock' even at 15 seconds ! ! !  Personally,  I 
would stop even trying
to start it; drop the pan and check ALL bearing starting with Mains.   
PITA, but it can be
done <G>.

You might try one thing which may/may not help.  Go to my site  and 
--->"Various Articles"
--->Compression Test for 4 cyls.  Run the Test (with coil disconnected 
<G>), fill out, Scan
and send to me.  I'll 'plug your #s' in and return.  "Might" show a 
'weakness'.
I'll also put up on my site for all to view.

Ed
Please visit MY site at:                    www.justbrits.com

From guinness at stclegal.com  Sun May 12 16:48:15 2013
From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 17:48:15 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA generator bracket failure
Message-ID: <51901C2F.3030308@stclegal.com>

My MGA 1600 seemed to be overheating a bit more than usual at stop 
lights.  So I opened the bonnet and lo and behold  -- both the water 
pump and rear brackets to the generator had sheared off.  What could 
cause this?  Do I need to (or should I) replace the water pump or can it 
be welded (after removal)?
-- 
e-mail signature Robert Guinness
Guinness & Buehler, LLC
2850 West Clay St., Suite 210
St. Charles, MO 63301
636-947-7711

CONFIDENTIALITY NOTE:
This e-mail and any attachments are confidential and may be protected by 
legal privilege. If you are not the intended recipient, be aware that 
any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any 
attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, 
please notify us immediately by returning it to the sender and delete 
this copy from your system.

The Missouri Bar Disciplinary Counsel also requires all Missouri lawyers 
to notify all recipients of e-mail that (1) e-mail communications is not 
a secure method of communication, (2) any e-mail that is sent to you or 
by you may be copied and held by various computers it passes through as 
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your computer or my computer or even some computer unconnected to either 
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sent in a different fashion, please contact me AT ONCE.

Thank you for your cooperation.

From mgmagnette at aol.com  Sun May 12 18:20:23 2013
From: mgmagnette at aol.com (John)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 20:20:23 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Anyone going to Carlisle next weekend?
Message-ID: <B42BC30D-B098-401F-96B7-B0CF6357C4EC@aol.com>

Just wondering :)

-John

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Sun May 12 21:19:25 2013
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 22:19:25 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA generator bracket failure
In-Reply-To: <51901C2F.3030308@stclegal.com>
References: <51901C2F.3030308@stclegal.com>
Message-ID: <201305130324.r4D3OlKs026570@nlpi162.prodigy.net>

If it was an aluminum body water pump that failure is common.  I 
broke two of those myself in 1997.  Kind of suprised the rear bracket 
broke.  If it was an iron body water pump I'm way more suprised, as I 
have never heard of one of those breaking like that.


At 05:48 PM 5/12/2013 -0500, Robert J. Guinness wrote:
>My MGA 1600 seemed to be overheating a bit more than usual at stop
>lights.  So I opened the bonnet and lo and behold  -- both the water
>pump and rear brackets to the generator had sheared off.  What could
>cause this?  Do I need to (or should I) replace the water pump or can it
>be welded (after removal)?
>....

From lundgren at byu.net  Sun May 12 21:41:57 2013
From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew Lundgren)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 21:41:57 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Bought a '78 B yesterday!
Message-ID: <CAKr3Jn33+S577ofKQ2qZBZLbvemNkWsQhPqZpUjfVCZC+SEfFw@mail.gmail.com>

I towed it home from Nevada today. Time to get to know the new one now!

Andrew

From enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk  Mon May 13 04:16:35 2013
From: enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk (Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 11:16:35 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Master Cylinger
In-Reply-To: <201305031729.r43HTfPf022734@nlpi162.prodigy.net>
References: <6AE3F102-B903-44D9-9794-CA0FEB86A5BA@ece.rochester.edu>
	<CD2DA2CF.42FB8%mvheim@sonic.net>
	<201301300216.r0U2G9Su016315@nlpi176.prodigy.net>
	<E1U0ZGo-0001Er-8P@theta.look.ca>
	<CAPx2zFFkRfQ3237wmLnZtHC4G+4JRB=RTYFYhR2zSg-SQ5SUOA@mail.gmail.com>
	<4D95A7E596FA43D3A4EC51E11676E9AC@TomVistaPC>
	<201305031729.r43HTfPf022734@nlpi162.prodigy.net>
Message-ID: <F51A1BC314B545D7B162EB36DEDD394E@TomVistaPC>

Hi guys, I've just starter to rebuild the master cylinder on the A and have
ordered a complete rebuild kit of seals etc. Over the weekend I noticed the
top gasket is different to the old one I have and questioned this with the
company I bought the kit from. They have come back to me and said that the
master cylinder I have is from an MGZA, ZB and not an MGA.

Does any one know if this was a common replacement and is it detremental in
any way apart from not being original? Are the internal seals the same?

Thanks

Tom
1960 MGA (in total rebuild)
1965 AH 3000 MKIII
1988 Mini Park Lane.

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon May 13 09:10:54 2013
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 08:10:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Bought a '78 B yesterday!
In-Reply-To: <CAKr3Jn33+S577ofKQ2qZBZLbvemNkWsQhPqZpUjfVCZC+SEfFw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKr3Jn33+S577ofKQ2qZBZLbvemNkWsQhPqZpUjfVCZC+SEfFw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1368457854.76736.YahooMailNeo@web164902.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Congrats! What kind of shape is it in?

Dan D
'76 B
'65 B
Central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren at byu.net>
To:
mgs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013 11:41 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Bought
a '78 B yesterday!
 

I towed it home from Nevada today. Time to get to know
the new one now!

Andrew
_______________________________________________
Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual
donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From mike at duvallvideo.com  Mon May 13 10:21:46 2013
From: mike at duvallvideo.com (Duvall Video Productions)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 11:21:46 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] delayed oil pressure
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2394.1368458027.1864.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2394.1368458027.1864.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <473A6FCC-B8B7-4C7B-AF62-1DD1DB9FC494@duvallvideo.com>

I might not be describing this well,   15 seconds may be an over statement but
the delay is too long- long enough to cause a knock--  the knocking isn't
there all the time.

-Wear was suggested--   it had a rebuild (over a year ago) and I have really
good oil pressure 40 to 60 pounds --   new oil pump....

-I don't think a spun bearing would cause low oil pressure at
startup....correct me if I'm wrong but I think the knock is a symptom of low
pressure at first.

-wrong gasket was suggested but this developed-- didn't happen year ago.

- The oil filter is the early hanging type so I don't think it is the filter.
If the filter simply bypassed, I don't think that would effect oil pressure

- problem with oil pick up or gasket?  hmmmm   ---

-- could a stuck open relief valve or way too weak pressure spring cause this?
If it were open the pump might have to get to maximum output before I got much
pressure....   What do you think?




On May 13, 2013, at 10:13 AM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> All you gents have missed something rather important, IMHO.
>
> <quote>
> ...but the knocking precludes that.
> </quote>
>
> As in rod or main knock ??  spun a main bearing --- # 3 or 4 ??

From mvheim at sonic.net  Mon May 13 14:14:12 2013
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 13:14:12 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Inspired...or shamed
Message-ID: <CDB697A4.460ED%mvheim@sonic.net>

...by Rick's litany of progress, I actually made an improvement on my MGB
this weekend.

Since before I owned it (at least 25 years) my 66 MGB has sported a 1973
grill. It was somewhat damaged, and recently the badge disappeared.
Saturday, I was looking at it and a light bulb went on -- somebody once gave
me a damaged Mk. 1 grill -- maybe it has a badge. A brief search in the
rafters found it.

It actually wasn't bad -- better than the 73, for the most part, except the
pot metal center post was broken. It turned out the post is interchangeable.
Some twisting to straighten the surround, and a quick swap, and I finally
had the correct grill on the B.

I think it was smiling at me...


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Mon May 13 16:02:08 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 17:02:08 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Inspired...or shamed
Message-ID: <8wwv9r9rw444axv9carovmfq.1368482528502@email.android.com>

Congratulations! B And thank you for the kind words.

Today's update coming shortly.

-rick
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded corners, just like a BlackBerry.

-------- Original message --------
From: Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net> 
Date: 05/13/2013  3:14 PM  (GMT-06:00) 
To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net> 
Subject: [Mgs] Inspired...or shamed 
 
...by Rick's litany of progress, I actually made an improvement on my MGB
this weekend.

Since before I owned it (at least 25 years) my 66 MGB has sported a 1973
grill. It was somewhat damaged, and recently the badge disappeared.
Saturday, I was looking at it and a light bulb went on -- somebody once gave
me a damaged Mk. 1 grill -- maybe it has a badge. A brief search in the
rafters found it.

It actually wasn't bad -- better than the 73, for the most part, except the
pot metal center post was broken. It turned out the post is interchangeable.
Some twisting to straighten the surround, and a quick swap, and I finally
had the correct grill on the B.

I think it was smiling at me...


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donationB  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Mon May 13 16:34:51 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 17:34:51 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Working on the body
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dw54FvExUgLWQH-E-haQcGOvj4afzvLN5qFVuNB_rvzyg@mail.gmail.com>

Hello Friends,

Today was a good day in the garage, but it started out kinda weak.
Please allow me to explain.  The first quest this morning was to load
the right front and rear wings, plus the a running board, into the SUV
and headed off to the painter.  A quick stop for coffee had me in a
nice mood.  Upon arrival at the paint shop, the guy met me out front
and said, "My boss told me that we're not taking in any more work."
When questioned further, he stated that he didn't know if that was
because guys were going on vacation, or if the shop was closing!
Either way, I don't have a painter - right now anyway.  Not to worry.
Lots of options here in Houston.

I did get a chance to look through the PPG color book and found the
closest thing to Autumn Red that they offer.  I then went to Tasco and
bought a quart of that color in their ShopLine product.  Its a
urothane paint, single stage, and none too expensive.  I've used it
before and its just fine - especially for a car that was originally
painted with gawd-only-knows what kind of paint.

Back in the garage I decided to work on the body some more.  I
stripped the rest of the paint from the tub (except for under the
bonnet) and sanded the metal smooth.  I then applied a coating of
MetalReady, just to coat the steel with zinc.  While it was drying I
went to the passenger side sill to prepare a thin coating of body
filler over the surface rusted metal, now cleaned, zinc coated and
ready for 'smoothing'.  Here's a picture of the sill with the filler
curing.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130513_144658.jpg

The wood behind the metal is quite sound so I'm okay with this solution.

After sanding the filler smooth, I applied a coating of primer.
Here's how it looked with the primer still wet.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130513_155537.jpg

And from another angle.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130513_155555.jpg

And yet a third.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130513_155602.jpg

I also did the same process on the driver's side but in that case, the
repair was just a small spot.  Here's how it looked with the primer
starting to dry.  The repair is right above the running board mounting
hole.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130513_155831.jpg

Of course, everything will get a nice hand sanding with #220 paper
before paint, but its nice to have the bare metal covered and
protected.

In between the various steps, described above, I cleaned and
refinished various mounting brackets (e.g. the horns, starter switch
mount, etc.) and the headlight dimmer switch.  Here's how the dimmer
switch and its mounting panel look after the cleanup.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130513_152039.jpg

Spray can 'gloss black' dries to somewhere between gloss and matte,
despite its name, and that makes it perfect for these bits.

And with that, I swept out the garage, pushed the car back over out of
the way (4-wheel casters are GENIUS!) and pulled Nancy's SUV back into
the garage.

Happy Monday, after a frustrating start,

-rick

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Mon May 13 20:42:49 2013
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 21:42:49 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] oil pressure delay question
In-Reply-To: <D76C1E1A-7E3A-4DE8-8BB4-6917172C92A8@duvallvideo.com>
References: <D76C1E1A-7E3A-4DE8-8BB4-6917172C92A8@duvallvideo.com>
Message-ID: <5191A4A9.9060408@ktc.com>

I'm convinced that the problem is that the oil in the galleries leaks 
down when the car is parked for an extended period fo time. In the case 
of my '69 B that means more than two days.  I believe that if the oiling 
system isn't hermetically sealed while the engine is shut down, air gets 
in and oil drains to the pan.  Result: no oil in the main gallerie untl 
the engine runs a bit, the passages fill up and the pressure comes up to 
normal.  You hear the almost dry rod bearings rattle until they get oil.

  When my B has sat a few days, I crank it for 15 sec or so to get oil 
up in the galleries and build the pressure before I choke it. Then when 
it starts, no rattles.  If I drive it every day I never have to bother; 
no rattles. It takes a while for the oil to leak down I suppose.

CR

On 5/12/2013 11:23 AM, Duvall Video Productions wrote:
> I've seen the subject of delayed startup oil pressure on here which I have
> been experiencing on my 65 B.   I have had to turn it over without the choke
> but it takes quite awhile to build up pressure-  15 seconds or so on running.

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Mon May 13 20:49:03 2013
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 21:49:03 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA generator bracket failure
In-Reply-To: <51901C2F.3030308@stclegal.com>
References: <51901C2F.3030308@stclegal.com>
Message-ID: <5191A61F.1060701@ktc.com>

When I ran a repair shop the most common cause for this failure was that 
the belt pulleys didn't run in the same plane.  Careful attention has to 
be paid to ensuring that the pulley are aligned and not cocked.

CR
On 5/12/2013 5:48 PM, Robert J. Guinness wrote:
> My MGA 1600 seemed to be overheating a bit more than usual at stop
> lights.  So I opened the bonnet and lo and behold  -- both the water
> pump and rear brackets to the generator had sheared off.  What could
> cause this?  Do I need to (or should I) replace the water pump or can it
> be welded (after removal)?

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Mon May 13 20:49:45 2013
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 21:49:45 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Bought a '78 B yesterday!
In-Reply-To: <CAKr3Jn33+S577ofKQ2qZBZLbvemNkWsQhPqZpUjfVCZC+SEfFw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKr3Jn33+S577ofKQ2qZBZLbvemNkWsQhPqZpUjfVCZC+SEfFw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5191A649.7020301@ktc.com>

GoodOnya, Andy!

CR
On 5/12/2013 10:41 PM, Andrew Lundgren wrote:
> I towed it home from Nevada today. Time to get to know the new one now!
>
> Andrew
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com

From mike at sportscarslimited.net  Tue May 14 09:06:40 2013
From: mike at sportscarslimited.net (Michael Singleton)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 08:06:40 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB wiring harness
In-Reply-To: <23504C36E3864129B2116618083627AD@paul>
References: <23504C36E3864129B2116618083627AD@paul>
Message-ID: <000601ce50b4$a60fc5f0$f22f51d0$@sportscarslimited.net>

Paul;
Just looked at my '69. The harness should be long enough to extend to just
short of the bonnet latch area, ie, the middle of the grille. At that point,
the leads from each headlight, running and turn signals join in. the horn
goes to one and from there, by a sub harness, to the other horn.

Mike

Michael Singleton
Sportscars Ltd
10170  Croydon Way
Suite M
Sacramento, CA 95826
(916) 366-0330
mike at Sportscars Limited.net


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of PaulHunt73
Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 3:36 AM
To: mgs at autox.team.net; MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Mgs] MGB wiring harness

A pal has a harness for a 1969 but it seems to be for the ultra-rare
'Cyclops'
model!

The harness stops by the right-hand headlight, where there are six wires for
the lights plus two wires in a tail for the horns, there is nothing going
across the front of the car to the left-hand headlight.  He does have a
two-wire sub-harness which looks like it is for the second horn, which was
optional until 1970 so I can understand a sub-harness for that, but should
there be a sub-harness for the left-hand lighting as well?  That seems to
make no sense.

PaulH.
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mike at sportscarslimited.net

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Tue May 14 10:59:15 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 11:59:15 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Small bits of progress
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dzFk28uBdk5RyezAZ0D7zjTSiGG8m9VaJ7Txf9CkgFa6g@mail.gmail.com>

Good morning Friends,

This morning I cleaned out the interior.  It had filled up with
debris, sanding dust, worn out sandpaper, cut off bolts, nails, tacks,
strips of carpet, etc..  I picked up the big pieces, stuff larger than
a quarter, then vacuumed everything out.  With that done, I could sit
on the floorboards and unscrew the transmission cover screws and
passenger foot rest.  All but two of the remaining traney cover screws
came out okay but two are rusted solid.  They will be drilled out.

After completing the clean up, I removed the radiator.  I had to cut
the hoses but everything else lifted out just fine.  Here's how the
front of the engine looks now.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130514_093841.jpg

A tiny bit of coolant spilled, but I had drained the system earlier.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130514_093910.jpg

Here's a look at the front engine mount.  Grimy oil is a good rust
preventative, in places.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130514_093930.jpg

I don't know if the stock thermostat will clean up and work properly,
but that's a pretty easy test.  I'll replace, if I need to do so.
Here's how it looks right after cutting the hose free.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130514_093939.jpg

The next couple of pictures are just documentation of the engine, in situ.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130514_094026.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130514_094035.jpg

I'll continue cleaning the front of the tub after lifting the engine
and transmission free.

And finally, here's just a quick picture of the radiator, leaning
against a tire.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130514_094044.jpg

-rick

From lundgren at byu.net  Tue May 14 13:51:27 2013
From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew Lundgren)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 13:51:27 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Replacement Keys
Message-ID: <519295BF.5080902@byu.net>

The '78 B I just bought came with one set of keys and a story.

The guy who was keeping the car for the guy I bought the car from lost 
the keys.

They called in a lock smith some time ago to make a replacement set.  He 
didn't have the correct blanks.  Rather than order them, he made some 
out of what he had lying about that could be wiggled about into the locks.

I want to get the correct keys now, but am not sure where the lock 
series numbers are located.

Do I pull the cowl off to get to the number off the lock, or is it 
someplace else?

I can see the pattern well enough by looking at the key I have, but as 
it is a jimmied (my apologies to any Jim's out there) key, I am not 
really positive the key will be any better than the one I have.

 From Mosses page here:

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=30369&SortOrder=50

It looks like an FS to me...

Thanks!

--
Andrew

From ptroot at gmail.com  Tue May 14 14:04:43 2013
From: ptroot at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 15:04:43 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG J2
Message-ID: <A9892359-5E08-4887-8559-736047FEDCEE@gmail.com>

Cool little video. Love the J2 pulling up next to the gigantic Rolls.
http://www.autoweek.com/article/20130513/CARNEWS01/130519926?utm_source=Daily
Drive20130514&utm_medium=enewsletter&utm_term=missedarticle3&utm_content=2013
0513-Watch-a-ridiculously-tall-man-extract-himself-from-a-1932-MG-J2&utm_camp
aign=awdailydrive


Sent from my iPad

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Tue May 14 14:07:25 2013
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 13:07:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Replacement Keys
In-Reply-To: <519295BF.5080902@byu.net>
References: <519295BF.5080902@byu.net>
Message-ID: <1368562045.90514.YahooMailNeo@web164901.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Google Pete Groh in Ellicott City, MD. He is the MG 'key' guy. He should be
able to help you out.

Dan D
'76 B
'65 B
Central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren at byu.net>
To:
mgs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 3:51 PM
Subject: [Mgs]
Replacement Keys
 

The '78 B I just bought came with one set of keys and a
story.

The guy who was keeping the car for the guy I bought the car from lost
the keys.

They called in a lock smith some time ago to make a replacement
set.  He 
didn't have the correct blanks.  Rather than order them, he made
some 
out of what he had lying about that could be wiggled about into the
locks.

I want to get the correct keys now, but am not sure where the lock
series numbers are located.

Do I pull the cowl off to get to the number off
the lock, or is it 
someplace else?

I can see the pattern well enough by
looking at the key I have, but as 
it is a jimmied (my apologies to any Jim's
out there) key, I am not 
really positive the key will be any better than the
one I have.

>From Mosses page here:
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=30369&SortOrder
=50

It looks like an FS to me...

Thanks!

--
Andrew
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From mvheim at sonic.net  Tue May 14 14:01:52 2013
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 13:01:52 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Replacement Keys
In-Reply-To: <519295BF.5080902@byu.net>
Message-ID: <CDB7E640.4616A%mvheim@sonic.net>

Seems plausible -- that profile matches my set. But it's not like you have
to be too accurate. My 66 MGB came with three keys -- glovebox, gas cap,
trunk -- all three of which work in the ignition. None of these unlock the
doors, however.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 5/14/13 12:51 PM, Andrew Lundgren at lundgren at byu.net wrote:

> The '78 B I just bought came with one set of keys and a story.
> 
> The guy who was keeping the car for the guy I bought the car from lost
> the keys.
> 
> They called in a lock smith some time ago to make a replacement set.  He
> didn't have the correct blanks.  Rather than order them, he made some
> out of what he had lying about that could be wiggled about into the locks.
> 
> I want to get the correct keys now, but am not sure where the lock
> series numbers are located.
> 
> Do I pull the cowl off to get to the number off the lock, or is it
> someplace else?
> 
> I can see the pattern well enough by looking at the key I have, but as
> it is a jimmied (my apologies to any Jim's out there) key, I am not
> really positive the key will be any better than the one I have.
> 
>  From Mosses page here:
> 
> http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=30369&SortOrder=
> 50
> 
> It looks like an FS to me...
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> --
> Andrew

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Tue May 14 16:12:27 2013
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 17:12:27 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG J2
In-Reply-To: <A9892359-5E08-4887-8559-736047FEDCEE@gmail.com>
References: <A9892359-5E08-4887-8559-736047FEDCEE@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5192B6CB.9070504@ktc.com>

The moral: Never put the top up!:-)

CR
On 5/14/2013 3:04 PM, Paul Root wrote:
> Cool little video. Love the J2 pulling up next to the gigantic Rolls.
> http://www.autoweek.com/article/20130513/CARNEWS01/130519926?utm_source=Daily
> Drive20130514&utm_medium=enewsletter&utm_term=missedarticle3&utm_content=2013
> 0513-Watch-a-ridiculously-tall-man-extract-himself-from-a-1932-MG-J2&utm_camp
> aign=awdailydrive

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Tue May 14 16:27:54 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 17:27:54 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Replacement Keys
In-Reply-To: <1368562045.90514.YahooMailNeo@web164901.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <519295BF.5080902@byu.net>
	<1368562045.90514.YahooMailNeo@web164901.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dy1iqLOn5WRfc6NNAO9zZM5XG_fPyO_nk6hANBSf4DMfg@mail.gmail.com>

http://www.mgexp.com/phile/1/182525/key%20profiles.jpg

for key profiles - but you probably already knew that.

-rick

On Tue, May 14, 2013 at 3:07 PM, Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com> wrote:
> Google Pete Groh in Ellicott City, MD. He is the MG 'key' guy. He should be
> able to help you out.
>
> Dan D
> '76 B
> '65 B
> Central NJ USA
> ________________________________
>  From: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren at byu.net>
> To:
> mgs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 3:51 PM
> Subject: [Mgs]
> Replacement Keys
>
>
> The '78 B I just bought came with one set of keys and a
> story.
>
> The guy who was keeping the car for the guy I bought the car from lost
> the keys.
>
> They called in a lock smith some time ago to make a replacement
> set.  He
> didn't have the correct blanks.  Rather than order them, he made
> some
> out of what he had lying about that could be wiggled about into the
> locks.
>
> I want to get the correct keys now, but am not sure where the lock
> series numbers are located.
>
> Do I pull the cowl off to get to the number off
> the lock, or is it
> someplace else?
>
> I can see the pattern well enough by
> looking at the key I have, but as
> it is a jimmied (my apologies to any Jim's
> out there) key, I am not
> really positive the key will be any better than the
> one I have.
>
> From Mosses page here:
> http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=30369&SortOrder
> =50
>
> It looks like an FS to me...
>
> Thanks!
>
> --
> Andrew
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate:
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive:
> http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richardolindsay at gmail.com

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Tue May 14 19:16:34 2013
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 20:16:34 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG J2
In-Reply-To: <A9892359-5E08-4887-8559-736047FEDCEE@gmail.com>
References: <A9892359-5E08-4887-8559-736047FEDCEE@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <201305150116.r4F1G3ES008769@nlpi176.prodigy.net>

We know this guy.  He is Scott Fohrman, a member of Chicagoland MG 
Club.  I sent him the link to the video.  We have more pictures of 
him and his car (along with a bunch more MMM cars) from 2002 here: 
http://chicagolandmgclub.com/photos/abingdon02

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA wih an attitude
http://MGAguru.com


At 03:04 PM 5/14/2013 -0500, Paul Root wrote:
>Cool little video. Love the J2 pulling up next to the gigantic Rolls.
>http://www.autoweek.com/article/20130513/CARNEWS01/130519926

From enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk  Wed May 15 05:00:26 2013
From: enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk (Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2013 12:00:26 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Front Disc Backing plates
In-Reply-To: <201305031729.r43HTfPf022734@nlpi162.prodigy.net>
References: <6AE3F102-B903-44D9-9794-CA0FEB86A5BA@ece.rochester.edu>
	<CD2DA2CF.42FB8%mvheim@sonic.net>
	<201301300216.r0U2G9Su016315@nlpi176.prodigy.net>
	<E1U0ZGo-0001Er-8P@theta.look.ca>
	<CAPx2zFFkRfQ3237wmLnZtHC4G+4JRB=RTYFYhR2zSg-SQ5SUOA@mail.gmail.com>
	<4D95A7E596FA43D3A4EC51E11676E9AC@TomVistaPC>
	<201305031729.r43HTfPf022734@nlpi162.prodigy.net>
Message-ID: <4DA15C2E5BB7454AA942CAC63C914097@TomVistaPC>

Hi Guys, has anyone got a part number or a source for the MGA front disk
backing / dust plate similar to the following link for the MGB or will the MGB
backing plate fit the MGA?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/bek072-MGB-BRAKE-DISC-BACK-PLATES-PAIR-BTB413-BTB41
2-/181123136272?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a2bc7bb10

Kindest regards
Tom

1960 MGA1600

1965 AH3000 MKIII BJ8

1988 Mini Park Lane

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Thu May 16 16:42:54 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 17:42:54 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Almost ready to lift the tub
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dxpa=bktn8OAZ71S2874qUr_EWyDa-SBQsiL5iQ2_26aA@mail.gmail.com>

Hello Friends,

I've removed the floor boards from my '53 TD, mostly by drilling out
the heads of the bolts!  The new boards will be either re-drilled to
use new holes in the supports, or the the old rusty screws will be
drilled out and re-tapped.  But I'm not there yet.  However, its time
to start pulling the tub bolts.  The first one was a nightmare and is
going to have to be cut off.  I don't expect the next five to be any
easier.  I do have to admit that there is light at the end of the
tub-removal-tunnel.

I do have a few pictures to share.  Here's how the gearbox and prop
shaft look after removing the tunnel and tranny cover.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130515_154105.jpg

And here's a look from the other side.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130515_154145.jpg

You may notice that I have already removed (and left laying almost in
place) the two angle frames that support the inner edges of the floor
boards.  I'll cut the screws off and re-tap the holes if I can't back
the screw shanks out with oil and heat.

I took a few pictures of the pedal assembly and master cylinder but
they're poor focus and I'll have better pictures when I address that
area.

The last project for this abbreviated day, was to repair the wooden
panel over the differential.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130515_154208.jpg

Again, the screws are rusted in place so I will cut them off.  Instead
of trying to replace the T-Nuts into damaged wood, I chose to drill
new holes nearby, install new T-Nuts in the supports below.  Here's
how the board looks now with the old holes filled and new holes
drilled and countersunk.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130516_160307.jpg

Here's the same area with a new screw resting in place.  I chose
Phillips because the screw heads are stronger.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130516_160332.jpg

And here's how the entire board looks while the wood filler is still
still curing but with the new holes ready.  I'll refinish the board in
satin black after sanding, especially at the infilled areas.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130516_162252.jpg

Once everything is cured and dried I'll put the board in place and
drill through the open holes to locate the T-Nuts that will be
installed below.

-rick

From d.mckinnie at usa.net  Thu May 16 17:52:52 2013
From: d.mckinnie at usa.net (Douglas McKinnie)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 19:52:52 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Replacement Keys
Message-ID: <521RePXz16832S04.1368748372@web04.cms.usa.net>

You probably know this already, but many MGB's still have a copy of the
original key bolted to the passenger side fender well inside the engine
compartment.

Douglas McKinnie
'70 BGT

From lundgren at byu.net  Thu May 16 18:54:50 2013
From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew Lundgren)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 18:54:50 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Replacement Keys
In-Reply-To: <521RePXz16832S04.1368748372@web04.cms.usa.net>
References: <521RePXz16832S04.1368748372@web04.cms.usa.net>
Message-ID: <CAKr3Jn0s3T+krtgo1yX9a-7mkGx0txWheJFuWcjnTi1DwKB2aQ@mail.gmail.com>

I had forgotten that. I will check it too.

Thanks!
On May 16, 2013 5:54 PM, "Douglas McKinnie" <d.mckinnie at usa.net> wrote:

> You probably know this already, but many MGB's still have a copy of the
> original key bolted to the passenger side fender well inside the engine
> compartment.
>
> Douglas McKinnie
> '70 BGT
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lundgren at byu.net

From lundgren at byu.net  Thu May 16 20:44:50 2013
From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew Lundgren)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 20:44:50 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Replacement Keys
In-Reply-To: <521RePXz16832S04.1368748372@web04.cms.usa.net>
References: <521RePXz16832S04.1368748372@web04.cms.usa.net>
Message-ID: <CAKr3Jn0StsH3o7GBx=qDeqvLh1O5EWmmqeUWiP3aR4nPuWjQwg@mail.gmail.com>

No joy...  of the three B's I've owned, none of them has had the key
there....
On May 16, 2013 5:54 PM, "Douglas McKinnie" <d.mckinnie at usa.net> wrote:

> You probably know this already, but many MGB's still have a copy of the
> original key bolted to the passenger side fender well inside the engine
> compartment.
>
> Douglas McKinnie
> '70 BGT
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lundgren at byu.net

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Thu May 16 22:49:48 2013
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 22:49:48 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 72, Issue 16
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1368640801.23114.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1.1368640801.23114.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <5195B6EC.7060704@comcast.net>

That's funny. In the mid-late 90's I had a 69 primrose B. I was working 
at a theater downtown Nashville and discovered that the orchestra pit 
motor control key fit the ignition. Then some years later, I was working 
in a new theater at Vanderbilt University and discovered that all the 
keys for the keyboard locks on the Steinways fit my ignition. Neither 
the glove box or fuel keys would work in the ignition. And of course my 
ignition key wouldn't unlock the pianos. I've never bothered locking the 
doors, so I wouldn't know about that.

Glenn


On 5/15/2013 12:00 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> From: Max Heim<mvheim at sonic.net>
> To: MG List<mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Replacement Keys
> Message-ID:<CDB7E640.4616A%mvheim at sonic.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>
> Seems plausible -- that profile matches my set. But it's not like you have
> to be too accurate. My 66 MGB came with three keys -- glovebox, gas cap,
> trunk -- all three of which work in the ignition. None of these unlock the
> doors, however.
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From mvheim at sonic.net  Thu May 16 22:57:24 2013
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 21:57:24 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 72, Issue 16
In-Reply-To: <5195B6EC.7060704@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CDBB06C4.462F2%mvheim@sonic.net>

I think my ignition lock must be pretty worn, because not only do all the
keys fit it, I can take them out while the engine is running. Occasionally
they fall out while driving, then I have to search the floor to switch off.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 5/16/13 9:49 PM, Glenn Schnittke at g.schnittke at comcast.net wrote:

> That's funny. In the mid-late 90's I had a 69 primrose B. I was working
> at a theater downtown Nashville and discovered that the orchestra pit
> motor control key fit the ignition. Then some years later, I was working
> in a new theater at Vanderbilt University and discovered that all the
> keys for the keyboard locks on the Steinways fit my ignition. Neither
> the glove box or fuel keys would work in the ignition. And of course my
> ignition key wouldn't unlock the pianos. I've never bothered locking the
> doors, so I wouldn't know about that.
> 
> Glenn
> 
> 
> On 5/15/2013 12:00 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
>> From: Max Heim<mvheim at sonic.net>
>> To: MG List<mgs at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Replacement Keys
>> Message-ID:<CDB7E640.4616A%mvheim at sonic.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>> 
>> Seems plausible -- that profile matches my set. But it's not like you have
>> to be too accurate. My 66 MGB came with three keys -- glovebox, gas cap,
>> trunk -- all three of which work in the ignition. None of these unlock the
>> doors, however.
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Max Heim
>> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
>> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
>> it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Fri May 17 06:20:12 2013
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Fri, 17 May 2013 05:20:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Replacement Keys
In-Reply-To: <CAKr3Jn0StsH3o7GBx=qDeqvLh1O5EWmmqeUWiP3aR4nPuWjQwg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <521RePXz16832S04.1368748372@web04.cms.usa.net>
	<CAKr3Jn0StsH3o7GBx=qDeqvLh1O5EWmmqeUWiP3aR4nPuWjQwg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1368793212.57358.YahooMailNeo@web164906.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

X2 - neither of mine do. I believe they stopped this practice at some time in
the '70's anyways.

Dan D
'76 B
'65 B
Central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren at byu.net>
To:
Douglas McKinnie <d.mckinnie at usa.net> 
Cc: mgs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday,
May 16, 2013 10:44 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Replacement Keys
 

No joy...  of the
three B's I've owned, none of them has had the key
there....
On May 16, 2013
5:54 PM, "Douglas McKinnie" <d.mckinnie at usa.net> wrote:

> You probably know
this already, but many MGB's still have a copy of the
> original key bolted to
the passenger side fender well inside the engine
> compartment.
>
> Douglas
McKinnie
> '70 BGT
> _______________________________________________
>
>
Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested
annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lundgren at byu.net
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From mike at duvallvideo.com  Fri May 17 12:10:16 2013
From: mike at duvallvideo.com (Duvall Video Productions)
Date: Fri, 17 May 2013 13:10:16 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] worn key
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1368813602.8387.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1.1368813602.8387.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CD5083A5-31FC-4887-A26D-ABA81ED0C7BD@duvallvideo.com>

Mine is the same way Max except the only key I can't get to work in the
ignition is the door/trunk key...


>
> Message: 6
> Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 21:57:24 -0700
> From: Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net>
> To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 72, Issue 16
> Message-ID: <CDBB06C4.462F2%mvheim at sonic.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>
> I think my ignition lock must be pretty worn, because not only do all the
> keys fit it, I can take them out while the engine is running. Occasionally
> they fall out while driving, then I have to search the floor to switch off.

From mike at duvallvideo.com  Fri May 17 22:20:17 2013
From: mike at duvallvideo.com (Duvall Video Productions)
Date: Fri, 17 May 2013 23:20:17 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Champagne British Car Fest Bloomington IL
Message-ID: <7C7BB666-53EF-4C68-B67C-C4C3F060EA11@duvallvideo.com>

Anyone going to be at the Bloomington Illinois Champagne British Car Fest show
next weekend?

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Sat May 18 09:03:13 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Sat, 18 May 2013 10:03:13 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] A little TD work
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dyd06yDQ-FK7rw59M8UuUUA5jkO0w04ci9zZ7_VBRTq=A@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Friends, and good morning,

Here's a picture of the now repaired and refinished middle access
board from over the TD's differential.  The old holes have been
plugged, the new ones drilled, countersunk, and the the final coat of
semi-gloss black paint is drying.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1291.JPG

When I make the changes on the mount location, I'll post some more pictures.

And just for fun, here's a picture of a pile of assorted rusty bolts -
some to be reused, some to be archived, and a few trashed!

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1290.JPG

Following that, here are a couple more pictures, just for
documentation, as the engine tear-down begins.  These are taken
specifically to answer some of the niggling questions upon reassembly.
 For example; Which way did the bolt go in?  Which end had the
lockwasher? etc..  That said, it is a mistake to believe without
question, that the way an old car is assembled TODAY is the the way
the mechanics assembled it 60 years ago!  These kinds of pictures and
exploded views in the workshop and parts manuals (and of course, the
MG-T List) should all be used together! :-)

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1293.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1292.JPG

One area needing attention is the fan spacer.  It is broken and a new
piece from Moss will be ordered as soon as I have all the engine parts
needs in hand.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130517_101329.jpg

Here's a picture of the fan blades with the rusty metal primer drying.
 Yes, they were rusty but I cleaned away all the rust.  Still, rust
makes pits and this primer is better for that situation.  I also
straightened both blades where they were a bit distorted, probably by
impact with something.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130517_094605.jpg

I painted the fan blades with gloss black engine paint.  And as I have
said before, 'gloss' paint from a spray can dries to the desired
semi-gloss.

And while the paint was drying, I repaired more wood and screw holes.
Cracks in the wood where over-sized screws were used by some PO, are
repaired.  Once fully dry, the toothpicks are cut off and proper screw
holes will be drilled.   BTW, MinWax brand wood hardener does a nice
job of strengthening the body timbers - especially where screw holes
are drilled.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130517_092008.jpg

That's it for this morning.  This work was done yesterday.  Today,
I'll get a little more time working on the old boy.

-rick

From tuck.southworth at gmail.com  Sat May 18 15:42:33 2013
From: tuck.southworth at gmail.com (Tuck Southworth)
Date: Sat, 18 May 2013 17:42:33 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] A little TD work
In-Reply-To: <CAOc+-dyd06yDQ-FK7rw59M8UuUUA5jkO0w04ci9zZ7_VBRTq=A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOc+-dyd06yDQ-FK7rw59M8UuUUA5jkO0w04ci9zZ7_VBRTq=A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <87A40EC0-81C0-456A-AC40-1E6FE7348A0D@gmail.com>

Rick,
Really like following your posts and the pics.  One phrase you used has me
concerned.  Distorted fan blades.  On more then one occasion I have seen
distorted fan blades shear off and dig right into the radiator.  Considering
the cost I'd think about replacing that fan.  You even have some options on
what to replace it with.
just my 2 cnt's
Tuck

Sent from my iPad

On May 18, 2013, at 11:03 AM, Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Hi Friends, and good morning,
>
> Here's a picture of the now repaired and refinished middle access
> board from over the TD's differential.  The old holes have been
> plugged, the new ones drilled, countersunk, and the the final coat of
> semi-gloss black paint is drying.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1291.JPG
>
>
>
> And just for fun, here's a picture of a pile of assorted rusty bolts -
> some to be reused, some to be archived, and a few trashed!
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1290.JPG
>
> Following that, here are a couple more pictures, just for
> documentation, as the engine tear-down begins.  These are taken
> specifically to answer some of the niggling questions upon reassembly.
> For example; Which way did the bolt go in?  Which end had the
> lockwasher? etc..  That said, it is a mistake to believe without
> question, that the way an old car is assembled TODAY is the the way
> the mechanics assembled it 60 years ago!  These kinds of pictures and
> exploded views in the workshop and parts manuals (and of course, the
> MG-T List) should all be used together! :-)
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1293.JPG
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1292.JPG
>
> One area needing attention is the fan spacer.  It is broken and a new
> piece from Moss will be ordered as soon as I have all the engine parts
> needs in hand.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130517_101329.jpg
>
> Here's a picture of the fan blades with the rusty metal primer drying.
> Yes, they were rusty but I cleaned away all the rust.  Still, rust
> makes pits and this primer is better for that situation.  I also
> straightened both blades where they were a bit distorted, probably by
> impact with something.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130517_094605.jpg
>
> I painted the fan blades with gloss black engine paint.  And as I have
> said before, 'gloss' paint from a spray can dries to the desired
> semi-gloss.
>
> And while the paint was drying, I repaired more wood and screw holes.
> Cracks in the wood where over-sized screws were used by some PO, are
> repaired.  Once fully dry, the toothpicks are cut off and proper screw
> holes will be drilled.   BTW, MinWax brand wood hardener does a nice
> job of strengthening the body timbers - especially where screw holes
> are drilled.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130517_092008.jpg
>
> That's it for this morning.  This work was done yesterday.  Today,
> I'll get a little more time working on the old boy.
>
> -rick
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/tuck.southworth at gmail.com

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Sun May 19 09:52:28 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 19 May 2013 10:52:28 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] A morning puttering in the garage
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dwms9S9RWH_ZkWzsPzxs+CZvea372QxeZGK+c8samkuqw@mail.gmail.com>

Hello Friends,

A few more words and pictures follow.

This morning I cleaned the propshaft tunnel in preparation for repairs
and paint.  Here's how it looked on the under-side after degreasing
and the zinc phosphate treatment.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130519_075011.jpg

You can see in that photo that the metal is rusted through in places,
at the bend.  The damage is not so bad as to need replacement of the
part, as this is not a structural piece.  I will repair it with
fiberglass, bonded with POR15 rather than epoxy - maybe.  Still
haven't decided.  In any case, the part will be repaired, not
replaced.

Here's how the tunnel looks from the top side, with a coat of POR15 on
the metal.  Once cured, I'll paint the underside similarly.  Then,
I'll make repairs.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130519_091106.jpg

The transmission cover is in the queue behind the propshaft tunnel.
It has no damage other than surface rust.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130519_091127.jpg

The brass clamping block for the handbrake cables has been cleaned and
refinished as well but I forgot to take a picture.  It is, however, in
another picture referenced later.

While the POR15 and engine paint were drying, I removed the air
cleaner.  I cleaned and painted the wing nut and forgot to photograph
it too.  Here is the air cleaner cover/element with the paint
stripped.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130519_082022.jpg

The paint came off with nothing more violent than lacquer thinner and
ScotchBrite.  Here's that same piece with a fresh coat of black paint
over primer.  The higher gloss is because the paint is still wet.
Sorry for the soft focus.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130519_090126.jpg

I then moved on to the air cleaner body.  Here it is still on the
engine.  I was pleased to see the clean oil in the filter.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130519_082746.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130519_082742.jpg

And on the workbench while being stripped.  Again, crappy focus.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130519_083709.jpg

Here's that same part with a coat of primer.  Despite the can resting
in the rear of the picture, this part is sprayed with conventional
engine primer.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130519_091023.jpg

Also in that picture you can see the hand brake cable block.  I left
the front shiny brass just for fun.

Finally, here are the parts of the air cleaner with the paint drying.
The top/element is dry so you can see the proper sheen of the paint.
The paint on the body of the filter is still wet.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130519_091729.jpg

That's it for this morning.  I may not get back to the garage this
afternoon.  Other home duties call.

-rick

From pete_groh at yahoo.com  Mon May 20 10:55:57 2013
From: pete_groh at yahoo.com (Pete Groh)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 09:55:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] worn keys- suggestion
Message-ID: <1369068957.5277.YahooMailNeo@web163806.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Over a period of time, the springs get worn out. May want to go to
a locksmith to get some springs. The early MNR lock insert used
the same key as on the GM cars. The key blank B10. The springs can
be replaced. I can provide you with the wafer sequence and direction
on how to remove the inserts.

The FA and FP lock insert, wafers are no longer available. The lock
insert for the FS keys are still maintain by locksmith since the
heavy duty cranes imported into the USA. The springs should be the same.


At car shows, look for old lock, ignition, glove box, door lock and boot
lock to get the wafers for re-keying locks.

Kind regards
Pete Groh (KeyGuy) Ellicott City MD USA

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Mon May 20 13:00:09 2013
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 14:00:09 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] worn keys- suggestion
In-Reply-To: <1369068957.5277.YahooMailNeo@web163806.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1369068957.5277.YahooMailNeo@web163806.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <519A72B9.6010500@ktc.com>

This didn't get on the list for some reason so I'm sending it again with 
an edit.
===============================================================================================================

When I bought my'69B the PO had only one key which wasn't original. The 
local lock shop came up with some blanks that worked.  One side of these 
little silver-colored keys says "Fits National."  The others side says 
"Taylor 71B."  Both ignition keys will turn the switch to Run but not to 
Start unless inserted into the lock with the smooth side up.  The key I 
got from the PO operates both the ignition & boot lock.  Never tried the 
door locks.  Why lock a convertible?

*Edit:*  The key I got from the PO looks similar to a early GM ignition 
key.  It's marked "Cole National" on one side, on the other it's marked 
"EN2."  I just tried the original in the door locks and it works, FWIW.

CR

On 5/20/2013 11:55 AM, Pete Groh wrote:
> Over a period of time, the springs get worn out. May want to go to
> a locksmith to get some springs. The early MNR lock insert used
> the same key as on the GM cars. The key blank B10. The springs can
> be replaced. I can provide you with the wafer sequence and direction
> on how to remove the inserts.
>
> The FA and FP lock insert, wafers are no longer available. The lock
> insert for the FS keys are still maintain by locksmith since the
> heavy duty cranes imported into the USA. The springs should be the same.
>
>
> At car shows, look for old lock, ignition, glove box, door lock and boot
> lock to get the wafers for re-keying locks.
>
> Kind regards
> Pete Groh (KeyGuy) Ellicott City MD USA
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Mon May 20 14:04:26 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 15:04:26 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Tunnel repair
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dy0YyNWRtcPtQxhtsHNLnPbHJA8N1CqAHavD9cBbAZwhg@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Friends,

This morning I applied the repair to the propshaft tunnel.  Here's how
it looks with the repair in place and curing.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130520_135726.jpg

The fiberglass cloth is being cemented in place with POR15.  This
product cures REALLY hard, yet it does not get overly brittle.  The
mounting lip will now be adequately strong and will not allow fumes
into the cockpit..well, at lease not through those rusty cracks.  The
glass fiber will be trimmed from the edges of the flange once the
product has cured and new mounting holes will be drilled.

A small can of POR15 has a very short pot life after opening; perhaps
two days, even tightly closed.  So to use up the whole can, I cleaned
and coated the outside of the transmission cover.  Here's how it looks
with the finish still wet.  There are no rusted through holes in this
part, probably thanks to the greasy environment of the 60-year-old
transmission.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130520_135715.jpg

Folks, I have no financial (or otherwise) connection with Restomotive,
the makers of MetalPrep and POR15, but I am a satisfied customer.
I've used the products for over a decade.

-rick

From lundgren at byu.net  Mon May 20 21:41:07 2013
From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew B. Lundgren)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 21:41:07 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Floating axle hub seals leaking
Message-ID: <519AECD3.2050009@byu.net>

While investigating the rear brakes on my new to me '78 B, I discovered 
that the rear castle nuts are loose (finger tight would be an 
overstatement...) and that oil has leaked out onto the shoes.

One of the screws holding the drum on was missing, two were stripped so 
badly that if they had been tightened at all then I would have had to 
drill them out and the last screw as damaged, though much less. One 
rebound strap is also torn out.

The drums look like they are in good shape and the brake pistons expand 
without issue.

I am expecting to replace the seals, the drum screws, the shoes and the 
rebound straps.  I am also considering doing the rear bearing since I am 
in there anyway.  Anything else I should do while I have it open?

--
Andrew

From lundgren at byu.net  Mon May 20 21:48:02 2013
From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew B. Lundgren)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 21:48:02 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Fan Relay fried...
Message-ID: <519AEE72.9090708@byu.net>

One email per question is a good idea right?  ;)

My '78 has been retro fitted with a single pull electric fan with a temp 
sensor against the radiator.

I have discovered that the relay controlling the fan fried.  It still 
functions, but the wire coming out of the bottom is nearly burned off.  
(Won't be driving until this is resolved.)

The first symptom of the problem was the engined died when the cooling 
fan came on.  While investigating why there was no power going to the 
coil, I found that by tugging on the harness the power came back on.  I 
heard electrical sparks while tugging and my son noticed smoke coming 
off of the fan relay.

It appears to be wired correctly as the fan does come on when the power 
is applied.

Any thoughts as to why the relay fried?

Bad ground?

Isn't the point of the relay to pass more power though than would 
otherwise be possible?

Thanks!
--
Andrew

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Tue May 21 01:58:59 2013
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 08:58:59 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] oil pressure delay question
References: <D76C1E1A-7E3A-4DE8-8BB4-6917172C92A8@duvallvideo.com>
	<5191A4A9.9060408@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <5C7E48E6558D47119E7517F11C9EA605@paul>

Oil does leak down from the system, be it galleries or filter, the longer it 
is left parked.  The quality of the oil filter has a major impact on this, 
but even switched off fully hot and left for a few days my V8 bearings were 
still swimming on oil when I removed the big ends and main bearings, so to 
say they are 'dry' at start-up is definitely not correct.  That engine is 
notorious for low oil pressure and a slow rise, the factory moved the gauge 
tapping from the output of the oil filter to the output of the pump in order 
to allay customer fears - but making absolutely no difference to the 
bearings of course, even so even when just left overnight it takes several 
seconds for the gauge to even start rising, and takes maybe 10-15 seconds to 
reach full pressure.  Left overnight the roadster is pretty 
well-instantaneous to register pressure, after a couple of weeks or more it 
is about five seconds from the start of cranking, having fired up after 3 or 
4 seconds.

15 seconds to see oil pressure is way too long.  Can you hear the knocking 
straight away?  Or only after a few seconds of running and before pressure 
builds?  If straight away it's likely that worn bearings are the cause of 
the slow rise.  If only after a while then it's likely that the residue of 
oil on the bearings is being lost before oil is available again, and that is 
causing bearing wear.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ...  Result: no oil in the main gallerie untl the engine runs a bit, the 
> passages fill up and the pressure comes up to normal.  You hear the almost 
> dry rod bearings rattle until they get oil.

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Tue May 21 04:59:41 2013
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 03:59:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Floating axle hub seals leaking
In-Reply-To: <519AECD3.2050009@byu.net>
References: <519AECD3.2050009@byu.net>
Message-ID: <1369133981.875.YahooMailNeo@web164902.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Maybe the brake cylinders anyway...... Hate to see them leak and ruin the new
shoes.... Especially if you don't know how old they are.

Dan D
'76B
'65B
Central NJ USA




________________________________
 From: Andrew B. Lundgren
<lundgren at byu.net>
To: "mgs at autox.team.net" <mgs at autox.team.net> 
Sent:
Monday, May 20, 2013 11:41 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Floating axle hub seals leaking
While investigating the rear brakes on my new to me '78 B, I discovered 
that
the rear castle nuts are loose (finger tight would be an 
overstatement...)
and that oil has leaked out onto the shoes.

One of the screws holding the
drum on was missing, two were stripped so 
badly that if they had been
tightened at all then I would have had to 
drill them out and the last screw
as damaged, though much less. One 
rebound strap is also torn out.

The drums
look like they are in good shape and the brake pistons expand 
without issue.
I am expecting to replace the seals, the drum screws, the shoes and the
rebound straps.  I am also considering doing the rear bearing since I am 
in
there anyway.  Anything else I should do while I have it open?

--
Andrew
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Tue May 21 05:14:06 2013
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 06:14:06 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Fan Relay fried...
In-Reply-To: <519AEE72.9090708@byu.net>
References: <519AEE72.9090708@byu.net>
Message-ID: <C6E4CAC1-8943-4EBD-93FE-18F3981960AD@gmail.com>

The point of the relay is to not pass more power than necessary through the
switch that controls the equipment. It's to save the switch.

You don't say which wire it is.

I'm going to guess that the wire was frayed and came in contact with a
ground.

On May 20, 2013, at 10:48 PM, Andrew B. Lundgren wrote:

> One email per question is a good idea right?  ;)
>
> My '78 has been retro fitted with a single pull electric fan with a temp
sensor against the radiator.
>
> I have discovered that the relay controlling the fan fried.  It still
functions, but the wire coming out of the bottom is nearly burned off.  (Won't
be driving until this is resolved.)
>
> The first symptom of the problem was the engined died when the cooling fan
came on.  While investigating why there was no power going to the coil, I
found that by tugging on the harness the power came back on.  I heard
electrical sparks while tugging and my son noticed smoke coming off of the fan
relay.
>
> It appears to be wired correctly as the fan does come on when the power is
applied.
>
> Any thoughts as to why the relay fried?
>
> Bad ground?
>
> Isn't the point of the relay to pass more power though than would otherwise
be possible?
>
> Thanks!
> --
> Andrew
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Tue May 21 05:16:51 2013
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 12:16:51 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Fan Relay fried...
References: <519AEE72.9090708@byu.net>
Message-ID: <26E5ABD00B3341E1AD9FA1877254883A@paul>

Yes it's a bad connection, but highly unlikely to be a bad ground.

Any bad connection reduces the amount of current that can flow, and in the 
process a voltage is developed across the bad connection, and hence heat is 
developed where heat would not normally exist.  That heat can cause damage, 
but it would have to be in a high-current circuit to do so.  The only earth 
connection in the vicinity of the relay is for its winding, which only takes 
a very small current, so any bad connection in the winding circuit is only 
likely to affect whether the relay operates or not, not cause heat damage.

The bad connection is likely to be in the fan circuit, i.e. the 12v supply 
spade at the relay, the relay contact itself, or the relay spade that then 
supplies the fan motor.  If it is the insulation board that carries the 
spade that shows heat damage then almost certainly it is the relay contact 
that has gone high-resistance, I've replaced one myself (on a UK V8) for 
that reason.  The relay needs to be replaced, but you should check the 
condition of the wiring to the relay spades.  If that is showing heat damage 
it may have been from a bad connection between wiring connector and spade, 
in which case the spade will need to be replaced and maybe the wiring cut 
back and pieced out.

But you have a non-standard setup anyway.  From September 76 North American 
MGBs had twin cooling fans as standard, operated directly from a 
thermostatic switch in the header tank of the radiator and no relay, unlike 
the UK V8 which did use a relay.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I have discovered that the relay controlling the fan fried.  It still 
> functions, but the wire coming out of the bottom is nearly burned off.

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Tue May 21 06:00:55 2013
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 13:00:55 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGB wiring harness
References: <23504C36E3864129B2116618083627AD@paul>
	<000601ce50b4$a60fc5f0$f22f51d0$@sportscarslimited.net>
Message-ID: <5B99FC2D46834582BE78F2658D8A0699@paul>

Well that's another option I hadn't thought of, so thanks for that.  However 
the headlamp and parking/indicator light wires wouldn't reach anywhere near 
the centre of the grille on either my 73 or 75, and the parts catalogues 
I've looked at only show one headlamp sub-harness for all chrome bumper 
cars.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Just looked at my '69. The harness should be long enough to extend to just
> short of the bonnet latch area, ie, the middle of the grille. At that 
> point,
> the leads from each headlight, running and turn signals join in. 

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Tue May 21 05:47:09 2013
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 12:47:09 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Floating axle hub seals leaking
References: <519AECD3.2050009@byu.net>
Message-ID: <814B5225FE35454681CED8981401892E@paul>

If you mean the rear hub nuts they are supposed to be 150 ft lb!  I wouldn't 
replace the bearings unless they need it, they really need to be pressed off 
and back on again, a much bigger job than replacing the oils seal.  If you 
do replace the bearings then grease them prior to installation, even though 
they run in axle oil.

Check the collar that the oil seal rides on, if that shows any damage i.e. 
grooving they will need to be replaced.

The drum screws are only there to stop the drums falling off before the 
wheels are fitted, the stud wheels hold the drums in the correct position 
anyway.  I always slacken mine by a quarter-turn when refitting to stop them 
seizing.

Rebound straps are very iffy, nothing more than elastic bands from most 
places as they have no reinforcing.  If you are lucky they will stretch 
until the axle is hanging on the dampers (assuming you have the dampers 
fitted ...) but often they simply snap the first time they are asked to take 
the weight of the axle.  Some time ago Moss US reckoned to have sourced 
correct straps and a test rig to check them, but I've not heard anything 
more about that.  I've reinforced mine with parcel strapping, but there are 
braided ones available from Strapping Lad, although I've been told his 
response to emails is iffy.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> While investigating the rear brakes on my new to me '78 B, I discovered 
> that the rear castle nuts are loose (finger tight would be an 
> overstatement...) and that oil has leaked out onto the shoes.
> ... 

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Tue May 21 13:41:51 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 14:41:51 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] small steps forward
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dy+Hht84RVTaJ6cHAiwdjS3bRViixzNdSX0aWhvAmJhzw@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Friends,

I spent most of today cleaning the garage.  It was an incredible mess
- a mess to the point of loosing parts so...it got cleaned.

After brushing down the benches and shelves, and sweeping the floor,
and after painting the transmission cover...

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130521_100519.jpg

...I went to the 'waiting for clean-up' box and pulled out a few
items.  The first was the accelerator assemble, complete with the
roller, the two pivots and the return spring.  It was stripped and
repainted black.  Its included in a picture I'll reference a little
later.

The next bit were the pedals.  I had previously removed them from the
arms.  Here's a look.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130521_130631.jpg

And here's a look at the pedal assembles after cleaning and
refinishing.  I'll put the new rubber pads on right before installing.
 You can also see the accelerator.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130521_134231.jpg

Where bolts and nuts are easily replaced with modern sizes, I have
done so, saving the salvageable Whitworth bolts and nuts for
applications where that thread pitch is required.  e.g. captive nuts,
studs, etc..  The bolts I used to attach the pedal to the link are
about 1/4" too long.  Yes, they are the same size as the bolts that
came out but I'll replace them with slightly shorter bolts after my
next trip to the hardware store.

I have also cleaned away the rust and grease from the angle irons that
provide the inboard supports for the floorboards.  I've also added
penetrating oil to the captive nuts in the hopes of backing out the
screws whose heads had to be drilled out.  And after the attachments
are managed, I'll paint these two parts black.

Folks, many of you have written to say that they enjoy the ongoing
story and the pictures.  Thank you.  Many of you have offered valuable
tips and they are greatly appreciated.  And a couple of folks have
written rather scathing comments about the techniques I have used.
That too is to be expected.  However, let me state again: I am not
writing to RECOMMEND processes or techniques.  I'm simply sharing my
hobby with my friends.

And that's it for now.

-rick

From lundgren at byu.net  Wed May 22 10:21:05 2013
From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew Lundgren)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 10:21:05 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Fan Relay fried...
In-Reply-To: <26E5ABD00B3341E1AD9FA1877254883A@paul>
References: <519AEE72.9090708@byu.net> <26E5ABD00B3341E1AD9FA1877254883A@paul>
Message-ID: <519CF071.9080302@byu.net>

I think this matches what I am seeing.

The relay itself is fried and the connection for one of the 12v spades 
is fried.  That spade is toasted all the way up into the relay.

It will actually wiggle around now inside the relay.

Here are some links to the relay.

Here are two bad pictures of the relay:  (one blurry, the other with a 
flash glare...)
http://www.lundgren.us/78/P20May2013Mon_2026-09.jpg
http://www.lundgren.us/78/P22May2013Wed_0841-30.jpg

And the wires on the bottom:
http://www.lundgren.us/78/P22May2013Wed_0841-40.jpg
http://www.lundgren.us/78/P22May2013Wed_0841-48.jpg
http://www.lundgren.us/78/P22May2013Wed_0842-07.jpg 
<http://www.lundgren.us/78/P22May2013Wed_0842-01.jpg>

I am concerned that the wire connected to the fried spade has already 
been replaced once...  It is either the initial connection, or this has 
fried a relay before.

--
Andrew

On 05/21/2013 05:16 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
> Yes it's a bad connection, but highly unlikely to be a bad ground.
>
> Any bad connection reduces the amount of current that can flow, and in 
> the process a voltage is developed across the bad connection, and 
> hence heat is developed where heat would not normally exist.  That 
> heat can cause damage, but it would have to be in a high-current 
> circuit to do so.  The only earth connection in the vicinity of the 
> relay is for its winding, which only takes a very small current, so 
> any bad connection in the winding circuit is only likely to affect 
> whether the relay operates or not, not cause heat damage.
>
> The bad connection is likely to be in the fan circuit, i.e. the 12v 
> supply spade at the relay, the relay contact itself, or the relay 
> spade that then supplies the fan motor.  If it is the insulation board 
> that carries the spade that shows heat damage then almost certainly it 
> is the relay contact that has gone high-resistance, I've replaced one 
> myself (on a UK V8) for that reason.  The relay needs to be replaced, 
> but you should check the condition of the wiring to the relay spades.  
> If that is showing heat damage it may have been from a bad connection 
> between wiring connector and spade, in which case the spade will need 
> to be replaced and maybe the wiring cut back and pieced out.
>
> But you have a non-standard setup anyway.  From September 76 North 
> American MGBs had twin cooling fans as standard, operated directly 
> from a thermostatic switch in the header tank of the radiator and no 
> relay, unlike the UK V8 which did use a relay.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> I have discovered that the relay controlling the fan fried.  It still 
>> functions, but the wire coming out of the bottom is nearly burned off.

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Wed May 22 14:49:09 2013
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 13:49:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] small steps forward
In-Reply-To: <CAOc+-dy+Hht84RVTaJ6cHAiwdjS3bRViixzNdSX0aWhvAmJhzw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOc+-dy+Hht84RVTaJ6cHAiwdjS3bRViixzNdSX0aWhvAmJhzw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1369255749.3162.YahooMailNeo@web164903.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

 I am actually taking Friday afternoon off, in the hopes of also cleaning my
garage and workspace and starting to do some
tasks on my '65 B project!

Dan D
'65 B
'76 B
Central NJ USA




________________________________
 From: Richard
Lindsay <richardolindsay at gmail.com>
To: "mgs at autox.team.net List"
<mgs at autox.team.net>; mg-t at autox.team.net; Rui Gigante <rui.gigante at gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 3:41 PM
Subject: [Mgs] small steps forward
 

Hi
Friends,

I spent most of today cleaning the garage.  It was an incredible
mess
- a mess to the point of loosing parts so...it got cleaned.

After
brushing down the benches and shelves, and sweeping the floor,
and after
painting the transmission cover...
http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130521_100519.jpg

...I went to the 'waiting for
clean-up' box and pulled out a few
items.  The first was the accelerator
assemble, complete with the
roller, the two pivots and the return spring.  It
was stripped and
repainted black.  Its included in a picture I'll reference a
little
later.

The next bit were the pedals.  I had previously removed them
from the
arms.  Here's a look.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130521_130631.jpg
And here's a look at the pedal assembles after cleaning and
refinishing.  I'll
put the new rubber pads on right before installing.
You can also see the
accelerator.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130521_134231.jpg

Where bolts and
nuts are easily replaced with modern sizes, I have
done so, saving the
salvageable Whitworth bolts and nuts for
applications where that thread pitch
is required.  e.g. captive nuts,
studs, etc..  The bolts I used to attach the
pedal to the link are
about 1/4" too long.  Yes, they are the same size as the
bolts that
came out but I'll replace them with slightly shorter bolts after my
next trip to the hardware store.

I have also cleaned away the rust and grease
from the angle irons that
provide the inboard supports for the floorboards. 
I've also added
penetrating oil to the captive nuts in the hopes of backing
out the
screws whose heads had to be drilled out.  And after the attachments
are managed, I'll paint these two parts black.

Folks, many of you have
written to say that they enjoy the ongoing
story and the pictures.  Thank
you.  Many of you have offered valuable
tips and they are greatly
appreciated.  And a couple of folks have
written rather scathing comments
about the techniques I have used.
That too is to be expected.  However, let me
state again: I am not
writing to RECOMMEND processes or techniques.  I'm
simply sharing my
hobby with my friends.

And that's it for now.

-rick
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From mike at duvallvideo.com  Wed May 22 17:36:18 2013
From: mike at duvallvideo.com (Duvall Video Productions)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 18:36:18 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] another SU needle question
Message-ID: <4EF16D0B-38CE-42FB-9B7F-068CF4D0B2F1@duvallvideo.com>

I think the 158 numbers on my SU needle mean it is a CS1 (teglerizer site) and
the factory needle is an ES.   The CS1 seems to get richer with higher rpm.

Anyone familiar with this needle change?   I'm wondering if someone did it
because they put pancake air cleaners on it.  I put an original air cleaner
back on it.

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Wed May 22 18:34:27 2013
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 19:34:27 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] oil pressure delay question
In-Reply-To: <5C7E48E6558D47119E7517F11C9EA605@paul>
References: <D76C1E1A-7E3A-4DE8-8BB4-6917172C92A8@duvallvideo.com>
	<5191A4A9.9060408@ktc.com> <5C7E48E6558D47119E7517F11C9EA605@paul>
Message-ID: <519D6413.7040806@ktc.com>

Paul,

Let me begin by asking if you were responding to an earlier post of mine?

If so, note that  wrote, "almost dry" not  "dry. "   What I meant by 
thet was that the bearings were not floating in oil, as they would have 
been after a day or so of inactivity.

  I think the OP was speaking of a MGB 4 cyl engine.  That's post I 
responded to.

Yes, in the case of my engine and the original OP's,  AIR, if the engine 
isn't cranked for 10 - 15 seconds before allowing it to start,, the rods 
will rattle after starting,  until the oil flow & resulting pressure 
comes up.   That's why I make a practice of cranking the engine for 
10-15 seconds  unchoked, before choking and starting it.  This is only 
if the engine has not been started for more than two days.

I hope this clears any confusion for you,

CR


On 5/21/2013 2:58 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
> Oil does leak down from the system, be it galleries or filter, the 
> longer it is left parked.  The quality of the oil filter has a major 
> impact on this, but even switched off fully hot and left for a few 
> days my V8 bearings were still swimming on oil when I removed the big 
> ends and main bearings, so to say they are 'dry' at start-up is 
> definitely not correct.  That engine is notorious for low oil pressure 
> and a slow rise, the factory moved the gauge tapping from the output 
> of the oil filter to the output of the pump in order to allay customer 
> fears - but making absolutely no difference to the bearings of course, 
> even so even when just left overnight it takes several seconds for the 
> gauge to even start rising, and takes maybe 10-15 seconds to reach 
> full pressure.  Left overnight the roadster is pretty 
> well-instantaneous to register pressure, after a couple of weeks or 
> more it is about five seconds from the start of cranking, having fired 
> up after 3 or 4 seconds.
>
> 15 seconds to see oil pressure is way too long.  Can you hear the 
> knocking straight away?  Or only after a few seconds of running and 
> before pressure builds?  If straight away it's likely that worn 
> bearings are the cause of the slow rise.  If only after a while then 
> it's likely that the residue of oil on the bearings is being lost 
> before oil is available again, and that is causing bearing wear.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> ...  Result: no oil in the main gallerie untl the engine runs a bit, 
>> the passages fill up and the pressure comes up to normal.  You hear 
>> the almost dry rod bearings rattle until they get oil.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Wed May 22 18:37:14 2013
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 19:37:14 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] another SU needle question
In-Reply-To: <4EF16D0B-38CE-42FB-9B7F-068CF4D0B2F1@duvallvideo.com>
References: <4EF16D0B-38CE-42FB-9B7F-068CF4D0B2F1@duvallvideo.com>
Message-ID: <519D64BA.4020701@ktc.com>

How does it run as-is?

CR
On 5/22/2013 6:36 PM, Duvall Video Productions wrote:
> I think the 158 numbers on my SU needle mean it is a CS1 (teglerizer site) and
> the factory needle is an ES.   The CS1 seems to get richer with higher rpm.
>
> Anyone familiar with this needle change?   I'm wondering if someone did it
> because they put pancake air cleaners on it.  I put an original air cleaner
> back on it.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com

From mike at duvallvideo.com  Wed May 22 19:18:47 2013
From: mike at duvallvideo.com (Duvall Video Productions)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 20:18:47 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] another SU needle question
In-Reply-To: <519D64BA.4020701@ktc.com>
References: <4EF16D0B-38CE-42FB-9B7F-068CF4D0B2F1@duvallvideo.com>
	<519D64BA.4020701@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <9C90DBA5-BC26-4786-B2B0-D3707C590B32@duvallvideo.com>

flat would be a good word-  sluggish and low torque-  I drove another TD last
summer and it had much more torque.

On May 22, 2013, at 7:37 PM, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote:

> How does it run as-is?
>
> CR
> On 5/22/2013 6:36 PM, Duvall Video Productions wrote:
>> I think the 158 numbers on my SU needle mean it is a CS1 (teglerizer site)
and
>> the factory needle is an ES.   The CS1 seems to get richer with higher
rpm.
>>
>> Anyone familiar with this needle change?   I'm wondering if someone did it
>> because they put pancake air cleaners on it.  I put an original air
cleaner
>> back on it.
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Thu May 23 01:47:42 2013
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 08:47:42 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Fan Relay fried...
References: <519AEE72.9090708@byu.net>
	<26E5ABD00B3341E1AD9FA1877254883A@paul> <519CF071.9080302@byu.net>
Message-ID: <FD19FB687CCF4EE7A2EC05F3C194EB35@paul>

I'd suspect the problem has happened before but only the heat damaged wire 
was pieced out, the real cause of the problem i.e. the relay was left behind 
to damage the new wire.  You need to do both, changing just the relay now 
may result in a reoccurrence if the wire connector is heat damaged and makes 
a bad connection to the new relay spade.  Unless the motor or its wiring has 
a partial short and is drawing too much current I doubt both were replaced 
last time.  And originally the fan was fused, so a partial short should have 
revealed itself ... unless that has been bypassed because it did keep 
blowing because of a partial short!  You need to check that fuse as well, 
indeed that it does have one, as that relay is not standard for a 4-cylinder 
MGB cooling fan.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I am concerned that the wire connected to the fried spade has already
> been replaced once...  It is either the initial connection, or this has
> fried a relay before.

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Thu May 23 01:57:30 2013
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 08:57:30 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] another SU needle question
References: <4EF16D0B-38CE-42FB-9B7F-068CF4D0B2F1@duvallvideo.com>
Message-ID: <989043938F014FC7A2F6658DB30AB5FD@paul>

I doubt any needle gets richer with rpm as such, but they all get richer as 
the piston lifts, which is controlled by the throttle butterfly opening. 
It's that which causes the increase in rpm (usually) hence increasing rpm is 
an effect and not a cause.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ...   The CS1 seems to get richer with higher rpm.

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Thu May 23 02:08:31 2013
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 09:08:31 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] oil pressure delay question
References: <D76C1E1A-7E3A-4DE8-8BB4-6917172C92A8@duvallvideo.com>
	<5191A4A9.9060408@ktc.com> <5C7E48E6558D47119E7517F11C9EA605@paul>
	<519D6413.7040806@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <C33EC501E6A64091BC5463AA4C1BE7E2@paul>

No confusion here.

The difference between a V8 and a 4-cylinder is irrelevant as far as oil 
remaining in the bearings is concerned.

Any oil remaining in the bearings by the time it has cooled down, i.e. a 
matter of a couple of hours, will remain there a very long time.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I hope this clears any confusion for you,

From mike at sportscarslimited.net  Thu May 23 08:41:00 2013
From: mike at sportscarslimited.net (Michael Singleton)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 07:41:00 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Fan Relay fried...
In-Reply-To: <FD19FB687CCF4EE7A2EC05F3C194EB35@paul>
References: <519AEE72.9090708@byu.net>
	<26E5ABD00B3341E1AD9FA1877254883A@paul> <519CF071.9080302@byu.net>
	<FD19FB687CCF4EE7A2EC05F3C194EB35@paul>
Message-ID: <001001ce57c3$8dc01ca0$a94055e0$@sportscarslimited.net>

Small addition to your post. The fan in the North American cars I've seen is
protected by a circuit breaker instead of the fuse shown in the wiring
diagrams. This being the case, the breaker could reset itself after tripping
any number of times, possibly eventually damaging the wiring, relay, or
whatever. Of course as you have pointed out, the relay is a non-factory
component, and we do not know how it is wired into the system. If the relay
was installed taking its power directly from the Brown/White wire, it
wouldn't be protected by any fuses and resultant damage could be caused by
any number of issues. Note the factory wiring diagram, 1977 Supplementary
wiring diagram-thermostatically controlled radiator fan (p. Na12  - factory
manual).


Michael Singleton
Sportscars Ltd
10170 Croydon Way
Suite M
Sacramento, CA 95826
(916)366-0330
mike at SportscarsLimited.net



-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of PaulHunt73
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 12:48 AM
To: Andrew Lundgren; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fan Relay fried...

I'd suspect the problem has happened before but only the heat damaged wire
was pieced out, the real cause of the problem i.e. the relay was left behind
to damage the new wire.  You need to do both, changing just the relay now
may result in a reoccurrence if the wire connector is heat damaged and makes
a bad connection to the new relay spade.  Unless the motor or its wiring has
a partial short and is drawing too much current I doubt both were replaced
last time.  And originally the fan was fused, so a partial short should have
revealed itself ... unless that has been bypassed because it did keep
blowing because of a partial short!  You need to check that fuse as well,
indeed that it does have one, as that relay is not standard for a 4-cylinder
MGB cooling fan.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I am concerned that the wire connected to the fried spade has already 
> been replaced once...  It is either the initial connection, or this 
> has fried a relay before.
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mike at sportscarslimited.net

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Thu May 23 09:58:25 2013
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 16:58:25 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Fan Relay fried...
References: <519AEE72.9090708@byu.net>
	<26E5ABD00B3341E1AD9FA1877254883A@paul> <519CF071.9080302@byu.net>
	<FD19FB687CCF4EE7A2EC05F3C194EB35@paul>
	<001001ce57c3$8dc01ca0$a94055e0$@sportscarslimited.net>
Message-ID: <04B44A31643B47C4A45F270B377BAF18@paul>

Yebutt ... North American cars never had the relay from the factory.  They 
did eventually get the circuit breaker, but that should be able to switch on 
and off repeatedly without causing any damage certainly to the wiring. 
Frequent short pulses to the motor such that it never reaches full speed 
could cause that to overheat (it draws more current while accelerating up to 
full speed).  But in that case it would give inadequate cooling which should 
be indicated on the temperature gauge.  I suppose if a relay were fitted (as 
in this case (but see below)) it would eventually shorten the life of that 
by arcing at the contacts eventually burning them and causing them to go 
high-resistance as seems to be the case here.  But there were differently 
rated rectangular relays, and using the wrong one in an application could 
cause either the winding to burn out, or the contacts.  I don't know if the 
same applied to the cylindrical type as here, but as I say from everything I 
have heard, read and seen it shouldn't have a relay there anyway.

It's just occurred to me that this probably isn't a fan relay at all, but 
the ignition relay.  That did supply the fan, as well as everything else.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Small addition to your post. The fan in the North American cars I've seen 
> is
> protected by a circuit breaker instead of the fuse shown in the wiring
> diagrams. This being the case, the breaker could reset itself after 
> tripping
> any number of times, possibly eventually damaging the wiring, relay, or
> whatever. 

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Thu May 23 10:06:25 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 11:06:25 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Handbrake and bolts
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dxA7k0nGavdY8p8+f+9wbiD7gxwysOqgxpZT==cnnGK6g@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Friends,

This morning I assembled all the parts of the handbrake assembly
(those bits found in the the cockpit only).  The 'arm' of the
handbrake's chrome was beyond saving so I decided to either have it
re-chromed or replaced at some later date.  Yesterday I sanded the
chrome to rough it up a bit, then applied a high-build primer and
black paint.  Gasp!   Well, for now, it will work and will look okay -
just not correct.  The push button's chrome was fine and left
polished.  The handle/grip got a coat of matte black paint.  The
adjusters are brass and are now nicely polished and clear-coated,
while the rest of the metal bits are painted semi-gloss black,
including the assembly-to-tunnel attachment bolts.

All of the rusty floorboard screws - including the ones whose heads
were drilled off - have now been removed from the captive nuts on the
angle-iron; those parts which supports the inboard edges of the
floorboards and propshaft tunnel.  I did a test using another of the
1/4" captive nuts found elsewhere.  I ran a 1/4-20 tap through the nut
and fitted a 1/4-20 bolt.  It fit nicely and was strong.  My
floorboards will be attached with 1/4-20 countersunk Phillips head
screws for $1.50, not $35.00 'correct' screws!   You have my full
permission to gasp again, as desired. :-)

-rick

From lundgren at byu.net  Thu May 23 10:23:06 2013
From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew Lundgren)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 10:23:06 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Fan Relay fried...
In-Reply-To: <04B44A31643B47C4A45F270B377BAF18@paul>
References: <519AEE72.9090708@byu.net>
	<26E5ABD00B3341E1AD9FA1877254883A@paul> <519CF071.9080302@byu.net>
	<FD19FB687CCF4EE7A2EC05F3C194EB35@paul>
	<001001ce57c3$8dc01ca0$a94055e0$@sportscarslimited.net>
	<04B44A31643B47C4A45F270B377BAF18@paul>
Message-ID: <519E426A.9060601@byu.net>

On 05/23/2013 09:58 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
> It's just occurred to me that this probably isn't a fan relay at all, 
> but the ignition relay.  That did supply the fan, as well as 
> everything else. 

I would like to hear more about this...  As I mentioned in the original 
thread, when the fan kicks on the car died.

I assumed that the hot line was grounding out and killing the car, are 
you suggesting that all of the power to the ignition and the fan is 
supplied though this relay?

There is no fuse or breaker in line with the fan (that I saw this 
morning in my quick examination of the wires before work).  The line 
that fried is connected to the hot brown line in the harness, so I guess 
there could be one further up the line, but I haven't gotten that far yet.

I was planning on getting a relay and other bits locally tonight to get 
things running again.  This one is available and appears to match the 
requirements:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Relay-Radiator-Cooling-Fan-Motor/_/N-9cj89?itemIdentifier=297371_0_8419_

I can later replace it with another mountable UK one.


--
Andrew

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu May 23 13:20:51 2013
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 12:20:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Handbrake and bolts
In-Reply-To: <CAOc+-dxA7k0nGavdY8p8+f+9wbiD7gxwysOqgxpZT==cnnGK6g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOc+-dxA7k0nGavdY8p8+f+9wbiD7gxwysOqgxpZT==cnnGK6g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1369336851.35866.YahooMailNeo@web164901.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

'Gasping' at $35 for nuts n bolts!!

Dan D
'76B
'65B
Central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: Richard Lindsay
<richardolindsay at gmail.com>
To: mg-t at autox.team.net; "mgs at autox.team.net List"
<mgs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 12:06 PM
Subject: [Mgs]
Handbrake and bolts
 

Hi Friends,

This morning I assembled all the parts of
the handbrake assembly
(those bits found in the the cockpit only).  The 'arm'
of the
handbrake's chrome was beyond saving so I decided to either have it
re-chromed or replaced at some later date.  Yesterday I sanded the
chrome to
rough it up a bit, then applied a high-build primer and
black paint.  Gasp! 
Well, for now, it will work and will look okay -
just not correct.  The push
button's chrome was fine and left
polished.  The handle/grip got a coat of
matte black paint.  The
adjusters are brass and are now nicely polished and
clear-coated,
while the rest of the metal bits are painted semi-gloss black,
including the assembly-to-tunnel attachment bolts.

All of the rusty
floorboard screws - including the ones whose heads
were drilled off - have now
been removed from the captive nuts on the
angle-iron; those parts which
supports the inboard edges of the
floorboards and propshaft tunnel.  I did a
test using another of the
1/4" captive nuts found elsewhere.  I ran a 1/4-20
tap through the nut
and fitted a 1/4-20 bolt.  It fit nicely and was strong. 
My
floorboards will be attached with 1/4-20 countersunk Phillips head
screws
for $1.50, not $35.00 'correct' screws!   You have my full
permission to gasp
again, as desired. :-)

-rick
_______________________________________________
Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual
donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Thu May 23 13:35:59 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 14:35:59 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Handbrake and bolts
In-Reply-To: <1369336851.35866.YahooMailNeo@web164901.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <CAOc+-dxA7k0nGavdY8p8+f+9wbiD7gxwysOqgxpZT==cnnGK6g@mail.gmail.com>
	<1369336851.35866.YahooMailNeo@web164901.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dwnCcnDqe-KSx0=v6D-iPOU4odu85bRGireA4LCBH9p+w@mail.gmail.com>

Yea Dan.  Less than a dozen!  And that's for bolts only!  And if one
wishes to make the restoration totally correct, that would be the way
to go.  Its also the way to invest more in the restoration than the
final result is worth!

BTW, here's a look at the handbrake after refinishing.  A new one is
not available (from Moss) so some day, I may have this one re-chromed.
 Until then...

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130523_142433.jpg

-rick

On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 2:20 PM, Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com> wrote:
> 'Gasping' at $35 for nuts n bolts!!
>
> Dan D
> '76B
> '65B
> Central NJ USA
>
> ________________________________
> From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay at gmail.com>
> To: mg-t at autox.team.net; "mgs at autox.team.net List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 12:06 PM
> Subject: [Mgs] Handbrake and bolts
>
> Hi Friends,
>
> This morning I assembled all the parts of the handbrake assembly
> (those bits found in the the cockpit only).  The 'arm' of the
> handbrake's chrome was beyond saving so I decided to either have it
> re-chromed or replaced at some later date.  Yesterday I sanded the
> chrome to rough it up a bit, then applied a high-build primer and
> black paint.  Gasp!  Well, for now, it will work and will look okay -
> just not correct.  The push button's chrome was fine and left
> polished.  The handle/grip got a coat of matte black paint.  The
> adjusters are brass and are now nicely polished and clear-coated,
> while the rest of the metal bits are painted semi-gloss black,
> including the assembly-to-tunnel attachment bolts.
>
> All of the rusty floorboard screws - including the ones whose heads
> were drilled off - have now been removed from the captive nuts on the
> angle-iron; those parts which supports the inboard edges of the
> floorboards and propshaft tunnel.  I did a test using another of the
> 1/4" captive nuts found elsewhere.  I ran a 1/4-20 tap through the nut
> and fitted a 1/4-20 bolt.  It fit nicely and was strong.  My
> floorboards will be attached with 1/4-20 countersunk Phillips head
> screws for $1.50, not $35.00 'correct' screws!  You have my full
> permission to gasp again, as desired. :-)
>
> -rick
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Thu May 23 16:06:09 2013
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 17:06:09 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] oil pressure delay question
In-Reply-To: <C33EC501E6A64091BC5463AA4C1BE7E2@paul>
References: <D76C1E1A-7E3A-4DE8-8BB4-6917172C92A8@duvallvideo.com>
	<5191A4A9.9060408@ktc.com> <5C7E48E6558D47119E7517F11C9EA605@paul>
	<519D6413.7040806@ktc.com> <C33EC501E6A64091BC5463AA4C1BE7E2@paul>
Message-ID: <519E92D1.3040603@ktc.com>

Doggone it,  Paul,

   It was all about rod rattling after the engine had sat for over two days.

CR
On 5/23/2013 3:08 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
> No confusion here.
>
> The difference between a V8 and a 4-cylinder is irrelevant as far as 
> oil remaining in the bearings is concerned.
>
> Any oil remaining in the bearings by the time it has cooled down, i.e. 
> a matter of a couple of hours, will remain there a very long time.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> I hope this clears any confusion for you,
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com

From aschneider at shaw.ca  Thu May 23 20:07:01 2013
From: aschneider at shaw.ca (Aubrey Schneider)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 19:07:01 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] float & aircare
Message-ID: <5A7D04B5669848E7AD98C530ACE03339@owneraur2ue3rs>

Hello all,

Have been floating in the background for a while, after being off for a long
time. The site seems to have changed but maybe there is still someone who can
help this OF.

In British Columbia, Canada, we have to go thru' what is known as AirCare,
much the same as smog testing. To get my
75 B thru' I have to get the carb ( Stromberg ) lean enough to pass. Besides
adjusting the mixture on the carb to lean it out, does the float have any
significant adjustments to assist in achieving the lean mixture.

Also, once I have passed the test ( holding thumbs ) what do I have to do to
bring up the performance to where it should be. I have had the vehicle looked
at & worked upon by 3 different dealers & now it seems all over the place. The
dist is now 5 BTDC.

Thanks in advance.

Aubrey

75 B

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Thu May 23 21:51:53 2013
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 20:51:53 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] float & aircare
In-Reply-To: <5A7D04B5669848E7AD98C530ACE03339@owneraur2ue3rs>
References: <5A7D04B5669848E7AD98C530ACE03339@owneraur2ue3rs>
Message-ID: <CACOF-TqnQyHg4LiCck8pHrB-qdW4w8bP7rUhkv3eopfwv34ntA@mail.gmail.com>

Do you know which gasses they are measuring on your car?  Are they doing
just a tailpipe test or are they doing a dyno test?
In general, here are some tips about mixture and exhaust
Too Rich
High HC
High CO
Low NOX
Low CO2

Too Lean
High HC
Low CO
High NOX
High CO2

Timing advanced
High NOX

In general if I have to take a high mileage car though a smog test, I
change the oil, replace the spark plugs, make sure the air filter is clean
and everything is set to spec.  I take the car for a good long drive to
make sure it is totally up to operating temp.  Once I get to the testing
station, I do not turn the car off, as I don't want the cat cooling off.




On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 7:07 PM, Aubrey Schneider <aschneider at shaw.ca>wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> Have been floating in the background for a while, after being off for a
> long
> time. The site seems to have changed but maybe there is still someone who
> can
> help this OF.
>
> In British Columbia, Canada, we have to go thru' what is known as AirCare,
> much the same as smog testing. To get my
> 75 B thru' I have to get the carb ( Stromberg ) lean enough to pass.
> Besides
> adjusting the mixture on the carb to lean it out, does the float have any
> significant adjustments to assist in achieving the lean mixture.
>
> Also, once I have passed the test ( holding thumbs ) what do I have to do
> to
> bring up the performance to where it should be. I have had the vehicle
> looked
> at & worked upon by 3 different dealers & now it seems all over the place.
> The
> dist is now 5 BTDC.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Aubrey
>
> 75 B
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From aschneider at shaw.ca  Thu May 23 22:01:55 2013
From: aschneider at shaw.ca (Aubrey Schneider)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 21:01:55 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Fw:  float & aircare
Message-ID: <92B40A5DC3074876A968E5016F68DE7E@owneraur2ue3rs>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Aubrey Schneider" <aschneider at shaw.ca>
To: "mg list" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 7:07 PM
Subject: [Mgs] float & aircare


> Hello all,
>
> Have been floating in the background for a while, after being off for a 
> long
> time. The site seems to have changed but maybe there is still someone who 
> can
> help this OF.
>
> In British Columbia, Canada, we have to go thru' what is known as AirCare,
> much the same as smog testing. To get my
> 75 B thru' I have to get the carb ( Stromberg ) lean enough to pass. 
> Besides
> adjusting the mixture on the carb to lean it out, does the float have any
> significant adjustments to assist in achieving the lean mixture.
>
> Also, once I have passed the test ( holding thumbs ) what do I have to do 
> to
> bring up the performance to where it should be. I have had the vehicle 
> looked
> at & worked upon by 3 different dealers & now it seems all over the place. 
> The
> dist is now 5 BTDC.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Aubrey
>
> 75 B
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/aschneider at shaw.ca 

From lundgren at byu.net  Thu May 23 22:27:43 2013
From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew Lundgren)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 22:27:43 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Tighten the distributor after setting the timing
Message-ID: <CAKr3Jn10rRv0Q+7xk7Z=HuzT1vOLKm1p5BseUGH27mhHTDotFw@mail.gmail.com>

And before driving around the block.

That is all.

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Fri May 24 02:02:45 2013
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 09:02:45 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Fan Relay fried...
References: <519AEE72.9090708@byu.net><26E5ABD00B3341E1AD9FA1877254883A@paul>
	<519CF071.9080302@byu.net><FD19FB687CCF4EE7A2EC05F3C194EB35@paul><001001ce57c3$8dc01ca0$a94055e0$@sportscarslimited.net><04B44A31643B47C4A45F270B377BAF18@paul>
	<519E426A.9060601@byu.net>
Message-ID: <BCE3453381DE4DE2850B2FCF92F32E38@paul>

That is more confirmation that it is the ignition relay then (didn't notice 
that in the original post).  When the fan operates the additional current 
from that causes even more volt-drop through the bad connection at the 
relay, killing the voltage to the ignition and everything else.

That link is for a 'hi/lo blower' relay which looks to me as if it is 
intended for two-speed cooling fan motors as often found on modern cars. 
You just need a basic Bosch 4-terminal 12v/30A relay such as 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RELAY-0332014125-BY-BOSCH-/380569119474.

The circuit breaker should be below the fusebox, brown/white and green 
wires, as shown here 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tes6x4hirjoz9gk/DSC00012.JPG?n=117394008

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 

> On 05/23/2013 09:58 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
>> It's just occurred to me that this probably isn't a fan relay at all, but 
>> the ignition relay.  That did supply the fan, as well as everything else.
>
> I would like to hear more about this...  As I mentioned in the original 
> thread, when the fan kicks on the car died.

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Fri May 24 02:11:58 2013
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 09:11:58 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] float & aircare
References: <5A7D04B5669848E7AD98C530ACE03339@owneraur2ue3rs>
Message-ID: <144B48D6C8C3426D9FF875631A670FA9@paul>

Do you mean float height?  That will effect mixture to some extent, the 
workshop manual gives quite a precise figure for setting.  In my experience 
it makes little difference to driving, but for emissions testing it will be 
more noticeable if it is out.

But there can be many other defects in ignition, carburation and emissions 
controls that will also make it difficult to pass a test, many of which will 
also affect running.

5 degrees BTDC seems low to me, Canada 74 to 76 used the 45D4 41599 
distributor set to 7 degrees static, 13 degrees at 1500 rpm strobe.  That is 
likely to put up emissions as more of the fuel is wasted instead of being 
converted to forward motion.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ... To get my
> 75 B thru' I have to get the carb ( Stromberg ) lean enough to pass. 
> Besides
> adjusting the mixture on the carb to lean it out, does the float have any
> significant adjustments to assist in achieving the lean mixture.
>
> Also, once I have passed the test ( holding thumbs ) what do I have to do 
> to
> bring up the performance to where it should be. I have had the vehicle 
> looked
> at & worked upon by 3 different dealers & now it seems all over the place. 
> The
> dist is now 5 BTDC.

From steve at coastaldatasystems.com  Fri May 24 05:46:49 2013
From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-Fisher)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 07:46:49 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Tighten the distributor after setting the timing
In-Reply-To: <CAKr3Jn10rRv0Q+7xk7Z=HuzT1vOLKm1p5BseUGH27mhHTDotFw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKr3Jn10rRv0Q+7xk7Z=HuzT1vOLKm1p5BseUGH27mhHTDotFw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <02ab01ce5874$60b15c90$221415b0$@com>

Back in the '90s SWMBO took over my SUV and I started driving her Sirocco. I
don't remember if it was the day after I had tuned it up or not, but driving
to work I could barely press on the gas without getting all kinds of
vibration, missing, etc. So I would accelerate very slowly and if the
vibration started I would back off the throttle a little and try to
accelerate even more slowly. When I got to my office I popped the bonnet and
the distributer cap was not clipped down :-) I can't believe the thing ran
at all!

--
Stephen West-Fisher
N4IK

From mgbob at juno.com  Fri May 24 06:06:44 2013
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 12:06:44 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] Fw:  float & aircare
Message-ID: <20130524.080644.3009.2@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com>

   In mid 1980s, I had a 1975 MGB with the Stromberg, but no catalyst.
   For it to pass emissions testing in Connecticut required careful tweaking.
The settings on the label did not suffice.
   Bob Wanta, a name that may be remembered by some long- time readers, would
poke the sensor of his tester into the tailpipe and work with mixture and
timing until emissions were barely within emissions requirements.
   Then ,with bonnet propped open several inches for additional cooling, I
would drive gently to the testing station. There, if waiting in line, it was
necessary to shut the engine off and on to keep its coolant temp about where
it was when Wanta got it within specs.   Hotter or cooler, it was out of
spec.
   Once through the test, it was a gentle drive back to the shop to adjust so
engine would run properly. The mixture was very lean, and the spark plugs
would show it. Wanta also told me to fill with 91 or 93 octane fuel the two
tanks before testing.
   You might find that the label specs do not get your engine to pass either.
Try his method, and good luck.
Bob


---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Aubrey Schneider" <aschneider at shaw.ca>
To: "mg list" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Fw:  float & aircare
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 21:01:55 -0700

----- Original Message -----
From: "Aubrey Schneider" <aschneider at shaw.ca>
To: "mg list" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 7:07 PM
Subject: [Mgs] float & aircare


> Hello all,
>
> Have been floating in the background for a while, after being off for a
> long
> time. The site seems to have changed but maybe there is still someone who
> can
> help this OF.
>
> In British Columbia, Canada, we have to go thru' what is known as AirCare,
> much the same as smog testing. To get my
> 75 B thru' I have to get the carb ( Stromberg ) lean enough to pass.
> Besides
> adjusting the mixture on the carb to lean it out, does the float have any
> significant adjustments to assist in achieving the lean mixture.
>
> Also, once I have passed the test ( holding thumbs ) what do I have to do
> to
> bring up the performance to where it should be. I have had the vehicle
> looked
> at & worked upon by 3 different dealers & now it seems all over the place.
> The
> dist is now 5 BTDC.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Aubrey
>
> 75 B
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/aschneider at shaw.ca
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Fri May 24 06:08:54 2013
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 05:08:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Fw:  float & aircare
In-Reply-To: <92B40A5DC3074876A968E5016F68DE7E@owneraur2ue3rs>
References: <92B40A5DC3074876A968E5016F68DE7E@owneraur2ue3rs>
Message-ID: <1369397334.82079.YahooMailNeo@web164906.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

John Twist has a publication on tuning the Z-S carb - might want to check that
out....
http://www.sterlingbritishmotoringsociety.org/files/zenith%20stromberg%20tech
%20tips.pdf


Dan D
'76B
'65B
Central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: Aubrey Schneider <aschneider at shaw.ca>
To: mg list <mgs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 12:01 AM
Subject:
[Mgs] Fw:  float & aircare
 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Aubrey
Schneider" <aschneider at shaw.ca>
To: "mg list" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent:
Thursday, May 23, 2013 7:07 PM
Subject: [Mgs] float & aircare


> Hello all,
>
> Have been floating in the background for a while, after being off for a 
>
long
> time. The site seems to have changed but maybe there is still someone
who 
> can
> help this OF.
>
> In British Columbia, Canada, we have to go
thru' what is known as AirCare,
> much the same as smog testing. To get my
>
75 B thru' I have to get the carb ( Stromberg ) lean enough to pass. 
>
Besides
> adjusting the mixture on the carb to lean it out, does the float
have any
> significant adjustments to assist in achieving the lean mixture.
>
> Also, once I have passed the test ( holding thumbs ) what do I have to do 
>
to
> bring up the performance to where it should be. I have had the vehicle 
>
looked
> at & worked upon by 3 different dealers & now it seems all over the
place. 
> The
> dist is now 5 BTDC.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Aubrey
>
> 75 B
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
>
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/aschneider at shaw.ca
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From peter.schauss at ngc.com  Fri May 24 06:55:53 2013
From: peter.schauss at ngc.com (Schauss, Peter (ESS))
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 12:55:53 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] float & aircare
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3421.1369384428.1864.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3421.1369384428.1864.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8AE45871F749FC4CBBE053CF2F8A493C0D165284@XMBVAG74.northgrum.com>

Aubrey,

On my 1980 B, once I had a working catalytic converter, the car had no
problems passing the New York tailpipe (idle) emissions test.  A few years
after I bought the car, I replaced the Zenith-Stromberg carb with two HS-4s
and spliced an aftermarket catalyst into the exhaust system between the head
pipe and the front muffler. I always tuned the carburetors for best idle and
emissions were always within spec.

Is your air pump connected?

Do you know that your catalyst is good?  Shortly after I bought my car I
discovered that one of the previous owners had removed the guts of my catalyst
in addition to disconnecting the air pump.

Fortunately, New York does not require an emissions test for cars over 25
years old so I do not have to worry about this now.

HTH,
Peter Schauss

-----Original Message-----


Message: 4
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 19:07:01 -0700
From: "Aubrey Schneider" <aschneider at shaw.ca>
To: "mg list" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] float & aircare
Message-ID: <5A7D04B5669848E7AD98C530ACE03339 at owneraur2ue3rs>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hello all,

Have been floating in the background for a while, after being off for a long
time. The site seems to have changed but maybe there is still someone who can
help this OF.

In British Columbia, Canada, we have to go thru' what is known as AirCare,
much the same as smog testing. To get my
75 B thru' I have to get the carb ( Stromberg ) lean enough to pass. Besides
adjusting the mixture on the carb to lean it out, does the float have any
significant adjustments to assist in achieving the lean mixture.

Also, once I have passed the test ( holding thumbs ) what do I have to do to
bring up the performance to where it should be. I have had the vehicle looked
at & worked upon by 3 different dealers & now it seems all over the place.
The
dist is now 5 BTDC.

Thanks in advance.

Aubrey

75 B

From shop at justbrits.com  Fri May 24 07:50:30 2013
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 08:50:30 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Fw:  float & aircare
In-Reply-To: <20130524.080644.3009.2@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20130524.080644.3009.2@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <519F7026.90807@justbrits.com>

<< On 5/24/2013 7:06 AM, mgbob at juno.com wrote:

  Wanta also told me to fill with 91 or 93 octane fuel the two tanks before testing. >>

ABSOLUTELY ! ! !   Over the years and because somebody told me <G> I have told Customers
(after leaning carb out approx = between running great and hardly running - LOL -) to fill-up
with SHELL (only) Hi-test and go drive about 170 miles south and fill up with SHELL (ONLY) Hi-test and come back;  re-fill & do same drive & then go directly to Testing Station & get tested.  "If" car fails
(which has proved to be in serious minority <G>) go around block and lean-out further and return to Station.
Cars have NOT failed after the foregoing <G> <G> <G> ! ! !

I have had ONE (1) Customer that "knew better" and used Amoco Hi-test and did above then FAILED.
He did the "further lean out" to the point car would hardly run and barely made it into Test Lane;
he STILL FAILED ! ! !

He did the above Shell + drives and PASSED <VBG> ! ! !   He stopped by later same day and told me
"PLEASE go ahead and say 'I TOLD YOU SO' ".  We had a great laugh ! ! !

AND  << On 5/24/2013 7:55 AM, Schauss, Peter (ESS) wrote:
Shortly after I bought my car I discovered that one of the previous owners had removed the guts of
my catalyst ....>>

Common 'operation' around here.  Easier to just replace with "Test Pipe" (see Moss Catalog <G>) as long
as 'visual' doesn't count <VBG> !  Additional benefit is dissipation of exhaust heat ! ! !  Empty cats RETAIN
*HEAT* (read CHERRY RED & directly under carb <F>) ! ! !

Also, be SURE you have some sort of Heat Shield;  even if you have to make one (roofing flashing tin
works GREAT <G>),

Ed
Please visit MY site at:					www.justbrits.com

From eugeneb at nni.com  Fri May 24 10:35:41 2013
From: eugeneb at nni.com (Eugene Balinski)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 12:35:41 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Fw:  float & aircare
In-Reply-To: <1369397334.82079.YahooMailNeo@web164906.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <web-502511386@admin.nni.com>

Has anyone on the list actually used this procedure to tune
their Z-S carb ?   If so, how did it go ? 

This is the same technique as published in the Moss
catalog.  I wish John Twist had made a video of it.

Gene
80 B

On Fri, 24 May 2013 05:08:54 -0700 (PDT)
 Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com> wrote:
> John Twist has a publication on tuning the Z-S carb -
> might want to check that
> out....
>
http://www.sterlingbritishmotoringsociety.org/files/zenith%20stromberg%20tech
> %20tips.pdf
> 
> 
> Dan D
> '76B
> '65B
> Central NJ USA
> ________________________________
>  From: Aubrey Schneider <aschneider at shaw.ca>
> To: mg list <mgs at autox.team.net> 
> Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 12:01 AM
> Subject:
> [Mgs] Fw:  float & aircare
>  
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Aubrey
> Schneider" <aschneider at shaw.ca>
> To: "mg list" <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent:
> Thursday, May 23, 2013 7:07 PM
> Subject: [Mgs] float & aircare
> 
> 
> > Hello all,
> >
> > Have been floating in the background for a while, after
> being off for a 
> >
> long
> > time. The site seems to have changed but maybe there is
> still someone
> who 
> > can
> > help this OF.
> >
> > In British Columbia, Canada, we have to go
> thru' what is known as AirCare,
> > much the same as smog testing. To get my
> >
> 75 B thru' I have to get the carb ( Stromberg ) lean
> enough to pass. 
> >
> Besides
> > adjusting the mixture on the carb to lean it out, does
> the float
> have any
> > significant adjustments to assist in achieving the lean
> mixture.
> >
> > Also, once I have passed the test ( holding thumbs )
> what do I have to do 
> >
> to
> > bring up the performance to where it should be. I have
> had the vehicle 
> >
> looked
> > at & worked upon by 3 different dealers & now it seems
> all over the
> place. 
> > The
> > dist is now 5 BTDC.
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> > Aubrey
> >
> > 75 B
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Mgs at autox.team.net
> >
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> Unsubscribe:
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/aschneider at shaw.ca
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate:
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive:
> http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From mvheim at sonic.net  Fri May 24 10:52:14 2013
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 09:52:14 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Fw:  float & aircare
In-Reply-To: <519F7026.90807@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <CDC4E8CE.46618%mvheim@sonic.net>

I'm glad Shell seems to work for you in your area. But here in Northern
California, the Chevron refinery sells gasoline to all the stations, so it
doesn't matter whose name is on the sign. It all has 10% ethanol, anyway,
and tops out at 91.

All things considered, it saves a lot of hassle to own a 74 or older MG in
California, and avoid the whole smog test rigmarole. I like to think one
gets a "purer" MG experience, also.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 5/24/13 6:50 AM, shop at justbrits.com at shop at justbrits.com wrote:

> << On 5/24/2013 7:06 AM, mgbob at juno.com wrote:
> 
>   Wanta also told me to fill with 91 or 93 octane fuel the two tanks before
> testing. >>
> 
> ABSOLUTELY ! ! !   Over the years and because somebody told me <G> I have told
> Customers
> (after leaning carb out approx = between running great and hardly running -
> LOL -) to fill-up
> with SHELL (only) Hi-test and go drive about 170 miles south and fill up with
> SHELL (ONLY) Hi-test and come back;  re-fill & do same drive & then go
> directly to Testing Station & get tested.  "If" car fails
> (which has proved to be in serious minority <G>) go around block and lean-out
> further and return to Station.
> Cars have NOT failed after the foregoing <G> <G> <G> ! ! !
> 
> I have had ONE (1) Customer that "knew better" and used Amoco Hi-test and did
> above then FAILED.
> He did the "further lean out" to the point car would hardly run and barely
> made it into Test Lane;
> he STILL FAILED ! ! !
> 
> He did the above Shell + drives and PASSED <VBG> ! ! !   He stopped by later
> same day and told me
> "PLEASE go ahead and say 'I TOLD YOU SO' ".  We had a great laugh ! ! !
> 
> AND  << On 5/24/2013 7:55 AM, Schauss, Peter (ESS) wrote:
> Shortly after I bought my car I discovered that one of the previous owners had
> removed the guts of
> my catalyst ....>>
> 
> Common 'operation' around here.  Easier to just replace with "Test Pipe" (see
> Moss Catalog <G>) as long
> as 'visual' doesn't count <VBG> !  Additional benefit is dissipation of
> exhaust heat ! ! !  Empty cats RETAIN
> *HEAT* (read CHERRY RED & directly under carb <F>) ! ! !
> 
> Also, be SURE you have some sort of Heat Shield;  even if you have to make one
> (roofing flashing tin
> works GREAT <G>),
> 
> Ed
> Please visit MY site at:     www.justbrits.com

From peter.schauss at ngc.com  Fri May 24 11:37:27 2013
From: peter.schauss at ngc.com (Schauss, Peter (ESS))
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 17:37:27 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] Fw:  float & aircare
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3464.1369415621.1864.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3464.1369415621.1864.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8AE45871F749FC4CBBE053CF2F8A493C0D16540E@XMBVAG74.northgrum.com>

Ed,

Exactly what I did - aluminum flashing for a heat shield.  The heat shield
also kept the oil which leaked from rear gearbox seal from dripping on the hot
catalytic converter.  Before I added the shield, the smoke from the oil on the
cat was a bit disconcerting.  I left the air pump connected which may have
helped keep the cat from getting too hot.

I removed the catalyst seven years ago when New York exempted my from the
emission inspection because it was over 25 years old.

Peter Schauss


------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 08:50:30 -0500
From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop at justbrits.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fw:  float & aircare
Message-ID: <519F7026.90807 at justbrits.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

...

Also, be SURE you have some sort of Heat Shield;  even if you have to make one
(roofing flashing tin
works GREAT <G>),

Ed
Please visit MY site at:					www.justbrits.com

From shop at justbrits.com  Fri May 24 16:23:30 2013
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 17:23:30 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Fw:  float & aircare
In-Reply-To: <8AE45871F749FC4CBBE053CF2F8A493C0D16540E@XMBVAG74.northgrum.com>
References: <mailman.3464.1369415621.1864.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<8AE45871F749FC4CBBE053CF2F8A493C0D16540E@XMBVAG74.northgrum.com>
Message-ID: <519FE862.7080408@justbrits.com>

<< On 5/24/2013 12:37 PM, Schauss, Peter (ESS) wrote:

The heat shield also kept the oil which leaked from rear gearbox seal from dripping on the hot
catalytic converter. >>

HUH ? ? ?  HOW does the CARB (with cat directly below) even get NEAR the rear of the
GEARBOX, Peter ? ? ? ? ? ? ?

Ed

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Fri May 24 16:38:17 2013
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 15:38:17 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Fw: float & aircare
In-Reply-To: <519FE862.7080408@justbrits.com>
References: <mailman.3464.1369415621.1864.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<8AE45871F749FC4CBBE053CF2F8A493C0D16540E@XMBVAG74.northgrum.com>
	<519FE862.7080408@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <CACOF-TqvbnwsfuxPy8MqT_uO=dHpME-yS1+gXZQSOTRD3FzvoQ@mail.gmail.com>

HUH ? ? ?  HOW does the CARB (with cat directly below) even get NEAR the
rear of the
GEARBOX, Peter ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
Drive backwards at speed!

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Sat May 25 00:06:50 2013
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 01:06:50 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Value of a MGB?
Message-ID: <51A054FA.9040207@ktc.com>

I got to looking at Craigs list today.  Couldn't believe the asking 
prices for most of the MGBs for sale.  I know the value will vary 
according to condition.  Makes me wonder how much they're really selling 
for.

CR

From don at napanet.net  Sat May 25 00:50:39 2013
From: don at napanet.net (Don)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 23:50:39 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Value of a MGB?
In-Reply-To: <51A054FA.9040207@ktc.com>
References: <51A054FA.9040207@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.3508.1369464869.1864.mgs@autox.team.net>

This isn't the perfect market check, but it will give you a rough 
idea as to values.  You can adjust the year range.  Early ones bring 
a lot more money in most cases.

http://collectorcarpricetracker.com/auctions/make/MG/model/MGB/years/1962-1973/

---------------------------------------------

Don Scott,  Calistoga CA USA  / 1955 MGTF, 1962 MGA Mk 2, 1967 MGB, 
1963-7 MGB (seeking), Misc. Japanese cars

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


At 11:06 PM 5/24/2013, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote:

>I got to looking at Craigs list today.  Couldn't believe the asking 
>prices for most of the MGBs for sale.  I know the value will vary 
>according to condition.  Makes me wonder how much they're really selling for.
>
>CR

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Sat May 25 02:19:23 2013
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 09:19:23 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Fw: float & aircare
References: <mailman.3464.1369415621.1864.mgs@autox.team.net><8AE45871F749FC4CBBE053CF2F8A493C0D16540E@XMBVAG74.northgrum.com><519FE862.7080408@justbrits.com>
	<CACOF-TqvbnwsfuxPy8MqT_uO=dHpME-yS1+gXZQSOTRD3FzvoQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D996BF2FF4E942D38157A1A61031721A@paul>

In Australia

----- Original Message ----- 

> HUH ? ? ?  HOW does the CARB (with cat directly below) even get NEAR the
> rear of the
> GEARBOX, Peter ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
> Drive backwards at speed!
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com 

From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com  Sat May 25 11:32:55 2013
From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (W. David Houser)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 13:32:55 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] British Car week
Message-ID: <9F552E3B-7851-4F4F-A559-C1205B64DF71@tampabay.rr.com>

Listers,
Today starts :
MAY 25- JUNE 2, 2013 Annual British Car Week. Nationwide -
www.britishcarweek.org

Get in those cars and Drive "em!
Cheers,
Dave Houser

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Sat May 25 11:37:25 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 12:37:25 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] bulkhead refinishing
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dy1RbSk+xcS62DzQmU_NGR27eOjy1ZbGt--OQVpFJoSFA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Friends,

Just a couple of pictures to share today.  While still on the quest of
lifting the tub away, I removed the lower firewall bulkhead yesterday
and freshened it.

Here's how the piece looked after degreasing and stripping what
remained of the black paint, followed by a coat of primer.  In this
picture, the primer is still wet.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130524_093215.jpg

You can see in that picture that a couple of the bolt holes are
deformed and one flange is slightly bent.  After the primer dried, I
straightened all the deformities before painting.  Here's how it
looks, hanging in the garage while the black paint dries.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130525_094340.jpg

Perhaps its worth stating that I am not building a show car, or even a
restored 'correct' car.  I'm building a driver.  And with that said, I
am not making big changes either, like 5-speed gearboxes or worse.
I'm just saving a rusty old relic, to be pretty, to run well, and just
to putter around the neighborhood.  I have other cars for
'frighteningly quick', 'super luxurious', and 'truly correct'.  This
car, like my TR3, if just for play time.

Probably didn't need to say any of that - but I did.

-rick

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Sat May 25 11:42:51 2013
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 12:42:51 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Value of a MGB?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3508.1369464869.1864.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <51A054FA.9040207@ktc.com>
	<mailman.3508.1369464869.1864.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <51A0F81B.7050806@ktc.com>

Thanks, that's insightful.

CR
On 5/25/2013 1:50 AM, Don wrote:
> This isn't the perfect market check, but it will give you a rough
> idea as to values.  You can adjust the year range.  Early ones bring
> a lot more money in most cases.
>
> http://collectorcarpricetracker.com/auctions/make/MG/model/MGB/years/1962-1973/
>
> ---------------------------------------------
>
> Don Scott,  Calistoga CA USA  / 1955 MGTF, 1962 MGA Mk 2, 1967 MGB,
> 1963-7 MGB (seeking), Misc. Japanese cars
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> At 11:06 PM 5/24/2013, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote:
>
>> I got to looking at Craigs list today.  Couldn't believe the asking
>> prices for most of the MGBs for sale.  I know the value will vary
>> according to condition.  Makes me wonder how much they're really selling for.
>>
>> CR
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sat May 25 12:21:36 2013
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 11:21:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] British Car week
In-Reply-To: <9F552E3B-7851-4F4F-A559-C1205B64DF71@tampabay.rr.com>
References: <9F552E3B-7851-4F4F-A559-C1205B64DF71@tampabay.rr.com>
Message-ID: <1369506096.92866.YahooMailNeo@web164903.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Dang not today, raining and 54 degrees here in Central NJ! But I have my
window stickers in the Audi and am doing some work in
the garage....

Dan D
'76B
'65B
Central NJ USA




________________________________
 From: W. David
Houser <mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com>
To: MGList List <mgs at autox.team.net> 
Cc:
Magnette ZAZB <zmagnette at mgcars.org.uk> 
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2013 1:32 PM
Subject: [Mgs] British Car week
 

Listers,
Today starts :
MAY 25- JUNE 2,
2013 Annual British Car Week. Nationwide -
www.britishcarweek.org

Get in
those cars and Drive "em!
Cheers,
Dave Houser
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From dcouncill at karamursel.org  Sat May 25 13:31:45 2013
From: dcouncill at karamursel.org (David Councill)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 12:31:45 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MG2013 - Oregon
Message-ID: <000c01ce597e$7f19c630$7d4d5290$@karamursel.org>

The odds are fairly good that I will attend the MG2013 car show in Oregon as
I am now moving to the adjacent state of Washington and will only be maybe
450 miles away. I have a few questions but I need to put in a bit of context
first. I have owned several MGBs and MGBGTs almost continuously over the
past 37 years. They have proven to be economical and fun vehicles to drive.
On the car show side, I have had some limited exposure. I attended the
Colorado Conclave British car show once about 10-12 years ago and have been
to the Portland (Oregon) British Field Meet twice over the past five years,
all as an observer (and to buy car parts). I have never put a car in a car
show, although people have asked me about it - my cars have always been to
drive. Technically, there isn't anything really show worthy about them, they
are mostly kept original and not necessarily pretty. As this is a NAMGBR
event, I would guess that there could be hundreds  (??) of cars, all MGBs
(GTs and Midgets?). I am looking for some insights from those who have been
to these events in the past relative to some of my many questions below?

 

What would be included in the $100 registration besides 1 car and two
people? Is there a charge just for observers? (I ask because at the Portland
meet, there is a charge for attendees such that I am probably better off
going in with a car plus two - me and my son).

 

When are the swap meet events typically held since I'd mostly be looking for
parts?

 

And I have noticed that some people sell or try to sell their cars at these
meets. Would MG2013 be a good place to sell a car to get a good sell price?
This I ask because I am moving into a smaller house/lot in Washington since
my kids have grown up and left. I have 3 MGs currently plus my son has 2 for
restoration so I am thinking about thinning it out a bit. In particular, I
have a 1967 BGT mostly original including very faded paint, restored
interior, strong original engine/drive train that I have been thinking of
selling (but may change my mind). It is hard to say its value using the
recently posted link from Don but if I could get at least $3500 USD for it,
I'd probably sell it right away, but the lower the price under that, the
greater the reluctance to part with it. I just have too many cars right now,
it is hard to truly enjoy all of them although that will change when I am a
bit further away from where I work.

 

David Councill

64 B

67 BGT

72 B

01 Land Rover Discovery II

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat May 25 14:14:53 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 14:14:53 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] A bit behind...
Message-ID: <51A11BBD.5020106@bradakis.com>

Finally getting around to sending out some Thank You notes to folks who 
donated
during the Team.Net spring fund drive.  Only about a month and a half 
behind.
I guess it is a good way to spend Decoration Day weekend.

mjb.

From charleyrob at gmail.com  Sat May 25 15:03:32 2013
From: charleyrob at gmail.com (Robinson Charley)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 17:03:32 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] British Car week
In-Reply-To: <9F552E3B-7851-4F4F-A559-C1205B64DF71@tampabay.rr.com>
References: <9F552E3B-7851-4F4F-A559-C1205B64DF71@tampabay.rr.com>
Message-ID: <85B00A8F-0DB7-434D-967F-A360F7B16C92@gmail.com>

You Fla. guys are funny. 49 & raining in CT

Sent from my iPhone

On May 25, 2013, at 1:32 PM, "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com>
wrote:

> Listers,
> Today starts :
> MAY 25- JUNE 2, 2013 Annual British Car Week. Nationwide -
> www.britishcarweek.org
>
> Get in those cars and Drive "em!
> Cheers,
> Dave Houser
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charleyrob at gmail.com

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Sat May 25 15:28:18 2013
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 14:28:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] MG2013 - Oregon
In-Reply-To: <000c01ce597e$7f19c630$7d4d5290$@karamursel.org>
Message-ID: <1369517298.89912.YahooMailClassic@web163903.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

--- On Sat, 5/25/13, David Councill <dcouncill at karamursel.org> wrote:

> The odds are fairly good that I will
> attend the MG2013 car show in Oregon as
> I am now moving to the adjacent state of Washington and will
> only be maybe
> 450 miles away. I have a few questions...


I've got a question - when and where is it?

First I've heard of it.

From dcouncill at karamursel.org  Sat May 25 15:30:03 2013
From: dcouncill at karamursel.org (dcouncill at karamursel.org)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 21:30:03 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] MG2013 - Oregon
In-Reply-To: <1369517298.89912.YahooMailClassic@web163903.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <000c01ce597e$7f19c630$7d4d5290$@karamursel.org>
	<1369517298.89912.YahooMailClassic@web163903.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <612167626-1369517404-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-718253358-@b3.c13.bise6.blackberry>

Corvallis, Oregon July 17-20

Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-----Original Message-----
From: David Breneman <david_breneman at yahoo.com>
Sender: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 14:28:18 
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG2013 - Oregon

--- On Sat, 5/25/13, David Councill <dcouncill at karamursel.org> wrote:

> The odds are fairly good that I will
> attend the MG2013 car show in Oregon as
> I am now moving to the adjacent state of Washington and will
> only be maybe
> 450 miles away. I have a few questions...


I've got a question - when and where is it?

First I've heard of it.
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dcouncill at karamursel.org

From rpschauss at gmail.com  Sat May 25 17:05:59 2013
From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 19:05:59 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 72, Issue 29
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1369504801.3277.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <51a143e3.aec6ec0a.46d2.ffffd07f@mx.google.com>

Ed,

When I converted my '80 B to dual HS4s I replaced the stock intake/exhaust
manifold with the old style intake and exhaust manifolds.  Then, in order to
get the car past emissions inspection, I bought a generic catalytic
converter from J.C. Whitney and spliced it into the exhaust system in front
of the front muffler.  IIRC, this placed the cat near the rear seal of my
overdrive.  I made a heat shield out of a piece of aluminum flashing which I
fastened to the frame cross pieces with sheet metal screws and fender
washers.

When my car aged out of the New York emission inspection requirement, I
decided that the easiest way to remove the catalyst was to replace the
entire exhaust system with an unmodified one. I am keeping the one with the
catalyst in case New York decides to change the law some time in the future.

- Peter Schauss
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 17:23:30 -0500
> From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop at justbrits.com>
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fw:  float & aircare
> Message-ID: <519FE862.7080408 at justbrits.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> << On 5/24/2013 12:37 PM, Schauss, Peter (ESS) wrote:
> 
> The heat shield also kept the oil which leaked from rear gearbox seal from
> dripping on the hot
> catalytic converter. >>
> 
> HUH ? ? ?  HOW does the CARB (with cat directly below) even get NEAR the
> rear of the
> GEARBOX, Peter ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
> 
> Ed
> 
********

From barrie at look.ca  Sun May 26 08:21:45 2013
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 10:21:45 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MG2013 - Oregon
In-Reply-To: <000c01ce597e$7f19c630$7d4d5290$@karamursel.org>
References: <000c01ce597e$7f19c630$7d4d5290$@karamursel.org>
Message-ID: <E1UgcAi-0003Yz-TV@epsilon.look.ca>

David
I go to just a couple of shows a year around Toronto.  $100 is very 
high and personally I would not pay that.  The British Car Day held 
just outside Toronto and gathers over 1,200 Brit cars is just $16 per 
car with as many passengers as you can pack in.  Seems to me $100 is 
a rip off.  But if I paid that I would want food, drinks, live band, 
table cloth on tables and feminine company !  My MGB GT V8 (Rover 
engine) is completely restored and in show condition but I drive it 
all over the place including trips to meets in Carolina and Michigan.  When
I enter shows I do not expect anything more than lining up with other 
MGs and chatting.  I used to win tons of pots and servers with my 
Austin Healey but not with the MGB because the V8 is not "original" 
because judges do not realise that V8s were built by the factory - 
but never sold outside the UK.  Also there are those over restored 
cars that seem to fascinate judges.

Best bet is to find a "local" club and join up with some if they form 
a convoy.  I went to Watkins Glen in convoy with A Healeys, MGs, and 
Triumphs - absolutely fabulous   Crossing the border was a blast - 
One tip - take a Moss catalog with you as one has a tendency to 
forget prices and think vendors are giving you a deal which is 
sometimes true.  Take a look at http://www.britishcarweek.org/

If you are looking for parts - again your local club should 
help.  Some "shows" have vendors but you have to "know" your 
event.  But there are shows that are specifically parts bent as an 
example the show at Ancaster, Ontario,  a great event that is crowded 
with vendors and buyers.

But at $100 I would give the MG2013 a miss especially as you have not 
been blooded on more friendly events

At 12:31 PM 25/05/2013 -0700, David Councill wrote:
>The odds are fairly good that I will attend the MG2013 car show in Oregon as
>I am now moving to the adjacent state of Washington and will only be maybe
>450 miles away. I have a few questions but I need to put in a bit of context
>first. I have owned several MGBs and MGBGTs almost continuously over the
>past 37 years. They have proven to be economical and fun vehicles to drive.
>On the car show side, I have had some limited exposure. I attended the
>Colorado Conclave British car show once about 10-12 years ago and have been
>to the Portland (Oregon) British Field Meet twice over the past five years,
>all as an observer (and to buy car parts). I have never put a car in a car
>show, although people have asked me about it - my cars have always been to
>drive. Technically, there isn't anything really show worthy about them, they
>are mostly kept original and not necessarily pretty. As this is a NAMGBR
>event, I would guess that there could be hundreds  (??) of cars, all MGBs
>(GTs and Midgets?). I am looking for some insights from those who have been
>to these events in the past relative to some of my many questions below?
>
>
>
>What would be included in the $100 registration besides 1 car and two
>people? Is there a charge just for observers? (I ask because at the Portland
>meet, there is a charge for attendees such that I am probably better off
>going in with a car plus two - me and my son).
>
>
>
>When are the swap meet events typically held since I'd mostly be looking for
>parts?
>
>
>
>And I have noticed that some people sell or try to sell their cars at these
>meets. Would MG2013 be a good place to sell a car to get a good sell price?
>This I ask because I am moving into a smaller house/lot in Washington since
>my kids have grown up and left. I have 3 MGs currently plus my son has 2 for
>restoration so I am thinking about thinning it out a bit. In particular, I
>have a 1967 BGT mostly original including very faded paint, restored
>interior, strong original engine/drive train that I have been thinking of
>selling (but may change my mind). It is hard to say its value using the
>recently posted link from Don but if I could get at least $3500 USD for it,
>I'd probably sell it right away, but the lower the price under that, the
>greater the reluctance to part with it. I just have too many cars right now,
>it is hard to truly enjoy all of them although that will change when I am a
>bit further away from where I work.
>
>
>
>David Councill
>
>64 B
>
>67 BGT
>
>72 B
>
>01 Land Rover Discovery II
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca

Regards,

Barrie Robinson
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060
MGB GT V8  in great nick
Aston Martin 1957 DB 2/4 MkII under restoration
www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
www.britcot.com
www.AMFClub.com

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Sun May 26 08:55:06 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 09:55:06 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] OT Rant
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dwPjRzzB=XjFFhAcYDVKVJBQ44pZAJfqR=XwDVcdcBWsQ@mail.gmail.com>

What the #e!! was NBC thinking?!  They time delayed the Monaco F1
Grand Prix then ran the POST RACE SHOW before the race, spoiling it!
The local NBC channel here in Houston (or someone, network?) also
edited the race coverage to fit their time slot.  If their goal was to
alienate the F1 fans, they certainly succeeded!  And why was it
delayed?  To air a FISHING show!  What a bunch of losers.

-rick

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sun May 26 08:59:30 2013
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 07:59:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Fw:  float & aircare
In-Reply-To: <519FE862.7080408@justbrits.com>
References: <mailman.3464.1369415621.1864.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<8AE45871F749FC4CBBE053CF2F8A493C0D16540E@XMBVAG74.northgrum.com>
	<519FE862.7080408@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <1369580370.76230.YahooMailNeo@web164903.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

I'm guess he mounted the cat below the car, since I think he said he sourced a
universal cat, not necessarily one specifically for
the B.

Dan D
'76B
'65B
Central NJ USA
Happy British Cars Week!




________________________________
From: "Just Brits " Shop" <shop at justbrits.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net 
Sent:
Friday, May 24, 2013 6:23 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fw:  float & aircare
 

<< On
5/24/2013 12:37 PM, Schauss, Peter (ESS) wrote:

The heat shield also kept the
oil which leaked from rear gearbox seal from dripping on the hot
catalytic
converter. >>

HUH ? ? ?  HOW does the CARB (with cat directly below) even get
NEAR the rear of the
GEARBOX, Peter ? ? ? ? ? ? ?

Ed
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sun May 26 09:00:41 2013
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 08:00:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Value of a MGB?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3508.1369464869.1864.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <51A054FA.9040207@ktc.com>
	<mailman.3508.1369464869.1864.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1369580441.79113.YahooMailNeo@web164903.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

You can also view 'completed' listings on eBay, that should tell you the sale
price. That way, you can have more of a local view.

Dan D
'76B
'65B
Central
NJ USA
Happy British Cars Week!




________________________________
 From:
Don <don at napanet.net>
To: mgs-autox.team.net <mgs at autox.team.net> 
Sent:
Saturday, May 25, 2013 2:50 AM
Subject: [Mgs] Value of a MGB?
 

This isn't
the perfect market check, but it will give you a rough 
idea as to values. 
You can adjust the year range.  Early ones bring 
a lot more money in most
cases.
http://collectorcarpricetracker.com/auctions/make/MG/model/MGB/years/1962-197
3/

---------------------------------------------

Don Scott,  Calistoga CA
USA  / 1955 MGTF, 1962 MGA Mk 2, 1967 MGB, 
1963-7 MGB (seeking), Misc.
Japanese cars
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------


At 11:06 PM 5/24/2013, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote:

>I got to
looking at Craigs list today.  Couldn't believe the asking 
>prices for most
of the MGBs for sale.  I know the value will vary 
>according to condition. 
Makes me wonder how much they're really selling for.
>
>CR
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
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From eric at erickson.on.net  Sun May 26 09:11:39 2013
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 00:41:39 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] OT Rant
In-Reply-To: <CAOc+-dwPjRzzB=XjFFhAcYDVKVJBQ44pZAJfqR=XwDVcdcBWsQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOc+-dwPjRzzB=XjFFhAcYDVKVJBQ44pZAJfqR=XwDVcdcBWsQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2A27D105-F1D2-4A21-A310-6B37E9BBC768@erickson.on.net>

On 27/05/2013, at 12:25 AM, Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay at gmail.com>
wrote:

> What the #e!! was NBC thinking?!  They time delayed the Monaco F1
> Grand Prix then ran the POST RACE SHOW before the race, spoiling it!
> The local NBC channel here in Houston (or someone, network?) also
> edited the race coverage to fit their time slot.  If their goal was to
> alienate the F1 fans, they certainly succeeded!  And why was it
> delayed?  To air a FISHING show!  What a bunch of losers.


Wow, even we get to see it LIVE (and it finished before midnight which
changes when they go to Canada).

It was a more interesting race than Monaco usually throws up (and isn't Checo
Perez getting aggressive? :)


And isn't Grosjean getting more silly

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sun May 26 12:06:49 2013
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 11:06:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] OT Rant
In-Reply-To: <CAOc+-dwPjRzzB=XjFFhAcYDVKVJBQ44pZAJfqR=XwDVcdcBWsQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOc+-dwPjRzzB=XjFFhAcYDVKVJBQ44pZAJfqR=XwDVcdcBWsQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1369591609.68803.YahooMailNeo@web164901.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

I watched some of it on the local NBC station, then switched to NBC Sports
Network, where they did the conclusion and post-race
interviews....

Dan D
'76B
'65B
Central NJ USA
Happy British Cars Week!
________________________________
 From: Richard Lindsay
<richardolindsay at gmail.com>
To: "mgs at autox.team.net List"
<mgs at autox.team.net>; mg-t at autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2013 10:55 AM
Subject: [Mgs] OT Rant
 

What the #e!! was NBC thinking?!  They time delayed
the Monaco F1
Grand Prix then ran the POST RACE SHOW before the race, spoiling
it!
The local NBC channel here in Houston (or someone, network?) also
edited
the race coverage to fit their time slot.  If their goal was to
alienate the
F1 fans, they certainly succeeded!  And why was it
delayed?  To air a FISHING
show!  What a bunch of losers.

-rick
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Mon May 27 07:33:04 2013
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 08:33:04 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Value of a MGB?
In-Reply-To: <1369580441.79113.YahooMailNeo@web164903.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <51A054FA.9040207@ktc.com>
	<mailman.3508.1369464869.1864.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<1369580441.79113.YahooMailNeo@web164903.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <51A36090.9020104@ktc.com>

Thanks, I'm going to look for that.

CR
On 5/26/2013 10:00 AM, Dan DiBiase wrote:
> You can also view 'completed' listings on eBay, that should tell you the sale
> price. That way, you can have more of a local view.
>
> Dan D
> '76B
> '65B
> Central
> NJ USA
> Happy British Cars Week!
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
>   From:
> Don <don at napanet.net>
> To: mgs-autox.team.net <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent:
> Saturday, May 25, 2013 2:50 AM
> Subject: [Mgs] Value of a MGB?
>   
>
> This isn't
> the perfect market check, but it will give you a rough
> idea as to values.
> You can adjust the year range.  Early ones bring
> a lot more money in most
> cases.
> http://collectorcarpricetracker.com/auctions/make/MG/model/MGB/years/1962-197
> 3/
>
> ---------------------------------------------
>
> Don Scott,  Calistoga CA
> USA  / 1955 MGTF, 1962 MGA Mk 2, 1967 MGB,
> 1963-7 MGB (seeking), Misc.
> Japanese cars
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --------
>
>
> At 11:06 PM 5/24/2013, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote:
>
>> I got to
> looking at Craigs list today.  Couldn't believe the asking
>> prices for most
> of the MGBs for sale.  I know the value will vary
>> according to condition.
> Makes me wonder how much they're really selling for.
>> CR
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate:
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive:
> http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com

From shop at justbrits.com  Mon May 27 08:39:24 2013
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 09:39:24 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Value of a MGB?
In-Reply-To: <51A36090.9020104@ktc.com>
References: <51A054FA.9040207@ktc.com>
	<mailman.3508.1369464869.1864.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<1369580441.79113.YahooMailNeo@web164903.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<51A36090.9020104@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <51A3701C.4020308@justbrits.com>

<< On 5/27/2013 8:33 AM, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote:
> Thanks, I'm going to look for that. >>

Plz let us know what you find out, Charley.

Should be TX interesting <G> <G> <G> ! ! !

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Mon May 27 13:01:16 2013
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 14:01:16 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Value of a MGB?
In-Reply-To: <51A3701C.4020308@justbrits.com>
References: <51A054FA.9040207@ktc.com>
	<mailman.3508.1369464869.1864.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<1369580441.79113.YahooMailNeo@web164903.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<51A36090.9020104@ktc.com> <51A3701C.4020308@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <51A3AD7C.5020209@ktc.com>

Ed 'n all,

Took a look.  Most of those actually sold were at reasonable prices.  
Some rough ones fer cheep; some restos sold in the low teens.  The ones 
with astronomical prices are still for sale.

CR
On 5/27/2013 9:39 AM, " Just Brits " Shop wrote:
> << On 5/27/2013 8:33 AM, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote:
>> Thanks, I'm going to look for that. >>
> Plz let us know what you find out, Charley.
>
> Should be TX interesting <G> <G> <G> ! ! !
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Mon May 27 14:09:06 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 15:09:06 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] The tub, she be free
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dzFNG-J2+ZjOYgRjxD+JjLS60aZ5kkN2CSsaVudWWcjwQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hello Friends,

Today I removed the TD's tub from the chassis!  I installed two angle
irons, one under each side at the mount points.  I also re-installed
the sub-facia to give lateral support there, and I also added ropes to
the heavier rear of the tub to control tilt.  Here's how it looked
once lifted clear of the hoop.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130527_125835.jpg

Once airborne, the tub rotated on the ropes but that was no issue.

I next rolled to chassis from under the tub, swept the floor and
lowered the tub to the garage floor.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130527_130140.jpg

Here's the chassis sitting over in the 'forbidden zone' (read: Nancy's
parking place).

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130527_130153.jpg

I next assembled a pair of sawhorses I purchased just for this
purpose.  I then raised the tub again, placed the horses under the tub
and lowered it onto them.  I then carefully slid the sawhorses, tub
clamped there upon, over to the storage space.  With that done, I
could roll the chassis back to the work area - all before Nancy's
catching my invasion into preordained space. :-P

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130527_143118.jpg

Next up, I just took a couple of pictures of the chassis, sans body.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130527_143247.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130527_143306.jpg

I now have a tiny bit of tub repair to complete before tackling the
really fun part - the drive train.  Woohoo!

-rick

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Mon May 27 16:02:47 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 17:02:47 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Just some tub-off pictures
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dx9_8egwTGM+kwJ-_JcT7_aUs8yPT8m2RxNQPWjY0xthQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hi again Friends,

I haven't done any more spanner-twisting today, but I have taken a
large number of pictures, just to document the as-found condition.
Here are those pictures, should you find yourself interested in
below-the-tub goodies.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1295.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1296.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1297.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1298.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1299.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1300.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1301.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1302.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1303.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1304.JPG

And before you look at the next picture, I must state a disclaimer:  I
do NOT usually wear black socks with shorts!  Actually, my long pant
legs are rolled up because I fell this morning and scraped up my knees
on the concrete sidewalk.  My heart is healthier but my knees are
buggered.  They're coated in Neosporin, even as I type...  Okay, now
you can look at the picture. :-)

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1305.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1306.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1307.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1308.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1309.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1310.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1311.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1312.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1313.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1314.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1315.JPG

Regards,

-rick

From mvheim at sonic.net  Tue May 28 10:36:10 2013
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 09:36:10 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] OT Rant
In-Reply-To: <CAOc+-dwPjRzzB=XjFFhAcYDVKVJBQ44pZAJfqR=XwDVcdcBWsQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CDCA2B0A.4675A%mvheim@sonic.net>

Yeah, got me too. Unbelievable.

on 5/26/13 7:55 AM, Richard Lindsay at richardolindsay at gmail.com wrote:

> What the #e!! was NBC thinking?!  They time delayed the Monaco F1
> Grand Prix then ran the POST RACE SHOW before the race, spoiling it!
> The local NBC channel here in Houston (or someone, network?) also
> edited the race coverage to fit their time slot.  If their goal was to
> alienate the F1 fans, they certainly succeeded!  And why was it
> delayed?  To air a FISHING show!  What a bunch of losers.
> 
> -rick


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From mvheim at sonic.net  Tue May 28 10:46:50 2013
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 09:46:50 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MG2013 - Oregon
In-Reply-To: <000c01ce597e$7f19c630$7d4d5290$@karamursel.org>
Message-ID: <CDCA2D8A.4675D%mvheim@sonic.net>

Read the event literature or web site to see what is provided for the
registration fee. Based on past events, this probably includes a t-shirt and
other tchotkes, a tour or road run of some kind, and a dinner or BBQ. It's
not $100 for just a one-day show entry.

British car meets always include a range of cars from survivors, drivers and
barn finds to concours contenders, and the participants have a similar range
of interests. Yes, there are people who are only interested in "pefect"
cars, but there are plenty of people who aren't comfortable talking about
concours points, but are willing to swap breakdown yarns and family
histories.

This is the national meet for one of the two nationwide MGB organizations
(why we need two is another question), so I would expect a good turnout from
the west coast, at least. It would probably be a very good place to show a
car for sale.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 5/25/13 12:31 PM, David Councill at dcouncill at karamursel.org wrote:

> The odds are fairly good that I will attend the MG2013 car show in Oregon as
> I am now moving to the adjacent state of Washington and will only be maybe
> 450 miles away. I have a few questions but I need to put in a bit of context
> first. I have owned several MGBs and MGBGTs almost continuously over the
> past 37 years. They have proven to be economical and fun vehicles to drive.
> On the car show side, I have had some limited exposure. I attended the
> Colorado Conclave British car show once about 10-12 years ago and have been
> to the Portland (Oregon) British Field Meet twice over the past five years,
> all as an observer (and to buy car parts). I have never put a car in a car
> show, although people have asked me about it - my cars have always been to
> drive. Technically, there isn't anything really show worthy about them, they
> are mostly kept original and not necessarily pretty. As this is a NAMGBR
> event, I would guess that there could be hundreds  (??) of cars, all MGBs
> (GTs and Midgets?). I am looking for some insights from those who have been
> to these events in the past relative to some of my many questions below?
> 
>  
> 
> What would be included in the $100 registration besides 1 car and two
> people? Is there a charge just for observers? (I ask because at the Portland
> meet, there is a charge for attendees such that I am probably better off
> going in with a car plus two - me and my son).
> 
>  
> 
> When are the swap meet events typically held since I'd mostly be looking for
> parts?
> 
>  
> 
> And I have noticed that some people sell or try to sell their cars at these
> meets. Would MG2013 be a good place to sell a car to get a good sell price?
> This I ask because I am moving into a smaller house/lot in Washington since
> my kids have grown up and left. I have 3 MGs currently plus my son has 2 for
> restoration so I am thinking about thinning it out a bit. In particular, I
> have a 1967 BGT mostly original including very faded paint, restored
> interior, strong original engine/drive train that I have been thinking of
> selling (but may change my mind). It is hard to say its value using the
> recently posted link from Don but if I could get at least $3500 USD for it,
> I'd probably sell it right away, but the lower the price under that, the
> greater the reluctance to part with it. I just have too many cars right now,
> it is hard to truly enjoy all of them although that will change when I am a
> bit further away from where I work.
> 
>  
> 
> David Councill
> 
> 64 B
> 
> 67 BGT
> 
> 72 B
> 
> 01 Land Rover Discovery II
> _______________________________________________

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Tue May 28 11:48:58 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 12:48:58 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] A little work...
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dxqfUMwVwVzkFKLmz+V+A_v18Fm2gZrCe9fEvWRM=U78A@mail.gmail.com>

Hello Friends,

Did a little work on the TD today.  Here's the place where I started:
Rust on the roll where it attaches to the tub.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130528_092233.jpg

Here's that same flange on the roll, after cleaning, removing the
rust, sanding and primering.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130528_100619.jpg

Here's the wider view.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130528_100614.jpg

As you can see, I'm working from high to low (so gravity helps, not
hurts) and from the middle of the frame outward, cleaning degreasing,
de-rusting as I go.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130528_101355.jpg

And here are a couple more looks, a little closer in.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130528_100631.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130528_100650.jpg

While the primer was drying, and to keep from spreading sanding dust
into the wet primer, I moved to the engine.  I removed the plenum -
the air cleaner had already been removed and refinished - and the
carbs.  Here they are on the (exceptionally messy) bench.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130528_100358.jpg

And here's where they came from.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130528_100408.jpg

Here are a couple more pictures, just to document the coming-apart process.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130528_100416.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130528_100432.jpg

Note the WHITE socks today!

-rick

From lundgren at byu.net  Tue May 28 13:03:35 2013
From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew Lundgren)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 13:03:35 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] '78 B licensed!
Message-ID: <51A4FF87.8@byu.net>

My new to me '78 B is legally licensed!

Had to share.

--
Andrew

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Tue May 28 14:45:39 2013
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 15:45:39 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] '78 B licensed!
In-Reply-To: <51A4FF87.8@byu.net>
References: <51A4FF87.8@byu.net>
Message-ID: <51A51773.6030406@ktc.com>

Good!  Go take a ride.  Got a pic?

CR

On 5/28/2013 2:03 PM, Andrew Lundgren wrote:
> My new to me '78 B is legally licensed!
>
> Had to share.
>
> -- 
> Andrew
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Tue May 28 14:58:44 2013
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 13:58:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] '78 B licensed!
In-Reply-To: <51A4FF87.8@byu.net>
References: <51A4FF87.8@byu.net>
Message-ID: <1369774724.96977.YahooMailNeo@web164902.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Congrats, Andrew!

Dan D
'76B
'65B
Central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren at byu.net>
To:
mgs at autox.team.net; bmcu at autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2013 3:03 PM
Subject: [Mgs] '78 B licensed!
 

My new to me '78 B is legally licensed!

Had
to share.

--
Andrew
_______________________________________________
Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual
donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From montejane at gmail.com  Tue May 28 20:01:24 2013
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte Jane Morris)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 21:01:24 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Won't start
Message-ID: <CAHEsxHoTc8zkVUNv0=pLC9oDjeM86wJjg6y+RuNCmwgyStTMLA@mail.gmail.com>

Mystery solved!

Original problem:
Drove car 15 miles, ran great. Shut it off and it didn't want to start (it
always starts right up). Got it started and drove home; car ran great for
the 8 miles home. Shut it off in the garage and it wouldn't start. That was
in February. I've been trying to trace the problem off and on since. I
replaced the coil and ballast resistor and Paul helped me fix the wiring
problem I created when I replaced the original OPUS/electronic ignition
with a 45D points dizzy many years back. I also replaced the ground wire in
the distributor.  I was getting a spark at the points when I separated them
with a screwdriver, but I still wasn't getting fire to the plugs. I could
see the points were opening and closing from above and I thought that I had
gotten a piece of sandpaper all the way through the points to clean them.
Finally, after  removing the distributor for closer inspection I found a
small "pip" at the bottom of the points and a groove it fit in on the
other. It must have not been letting a spark form.
After replacing the points and condenser, it fired up on the first "crank".
I'm sure any mechanic that would have looked under the hood would probably
have diagnosed the problem within a few minutes. It took me a little
longer:)

Thanks to all who offered advice with this.

Monte, 79B with HIF's

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Wed May 29 06:41:00 2013
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 05:41:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Just some tub-off pictures
In-Reply-To: <CAOc+-dx9_8egwTGM+kwJ-_JcT7_aUs8yPT8m2RxNQPWjY0xthQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOc+-dx9_8egwTGM+kwJ-_JcT7_aUs8yPT8m2RxNQPWjY0xthQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1369831260.61725.YahooMailNeo@web164904.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

C'mon, Rick, everyone knows you are supposed to wear Birkenstocks with black
socks and shorts / rolled-up pants!


Dan D
'76B
'65B
Central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: Richard Lindsay
<richardolindsay at gmail.com>


And before you look at the next picture, I must
state a disclaimer:  I
do NOT usually wear black socks with shorts!  Actually,
my long pant
legs are rolled up because I fell this morning and scraped up my
knees
on the concrete sidewalk.  My heart is healthier but my knees are
buggered.  They're coated in Neosporin, even as I type...  Okay, now
you can
look at the picture. :-)

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Wed May 29 10:36:28 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 11:36:28 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Nuts, etc...
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dzSgJegG1sgsShEYTnW9KtJjpQj6CA=ES9zsN0PfjdMLw@mail.gmail.com>

Hello Friends,

Yes I put the rear of the frame up on jack stands and removed the left
rear wheel and - wait for it - cleaned and painted the lug nuts.  I
like to refinish as I go.  It gives a bit of variety to the work, not
to mention sitting versus standing and visa-versa.

The next step was to remove the left rear damper.  It was quite
heavily coated in dirt and grease.  And quite honestly, that's a good
thing.  It precludes rust!

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130529_080633.jpg

A few Whitworth spanner twists later, the damper was free.  All bolts
and nuts came free somewhat easily.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130529_082638.jpg

I did discover that the bolt threads were damaged so I have bought
replacements in 3/8" - fine x 3" length, grade 5 bolts, washers and
nuts.  The mounting point on the frame is just fine.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130529_082646.jpg

With the damper free and upright on the workbench, I moved on the to
spring.  With the axle hanging on the straps, I broke the nuts loose
on the U-bolts.  I had soaked them yesterday with Liquid Wrench.
Here's a look at the area, just for documentation.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130529_082651.jpg

Another couple of documentation pictures.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130529_082709.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130529_082718.jpg

While the nuts and U-bolts soaked, I removed the rear shackle.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130529_084022.jpg

And with a few more spanner twists, the spring was free.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130529_092350e.jpg

Here's a look at the front spring mount point, before cleanup.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130529_094159.jpg

If it wasn't a bit of a PITA, this would be funny: After removing the
nut from the front spring bolt, I used a drift pin/punch to push the
bolt out.  A few taps on the drift broke the bolt free and sent it
flying INTO THE TUBULAR CROSSMEMBER!  I did say a few ugly words upon
discovering that!  Without much worry, I realized that I could just
feed a length of old hose through the tube and push the bolt out.

I had spent enough time fighting bolts (and looking for old water
hose) so I stopped and cleaned, sanded and primered another bit of the
frame.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130529_104247.jpg

Here's a little closer look.  Primer still drying.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130529_104252.jpg

And with that, I cleaned myself up and went for a drive in the E-Type
(read: went to the hardware store for those new damper bolts).  Fun!

This afternoon I hope to clean the rest of that run of frame, clear to
the end, then start the cleanup and refinishing of all the hardware
and bits I have since removed.

With best regards,

-rick

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Wed May 29 13:56:48 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 14:56:48 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Completed today's quest...
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dzcLHWQ=k81usK5vThQHvDCwHQDMGFuiYd8D-7DHA8yYg@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Friends,

As intended, I finished the top, outer side and bottom of the left
middle-to-rear frame.  Its now cleaned and primered from the scuttle
hoop to the rear bumper mount.  The inside of that rail, where the
brake line and harness run, will be addressed next.  And when
everything is cleaned and primered, I'll put on a nice coat of chassis
black.

Here are a couple of pictures of the work, in progress.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130529_142054.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130529_142108.jpg

In that second picture you can see a paper towel stuffed in the
bushing opening, just to keep extra paint out of there.

Here's another look.  I'll put a jack stand under the axle and R&R the
loop when next I get to the garage.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130529_142116.jpg

And as the day's work concluded, I rolled the car aside, and swept up
the debris.  In the background is my E-Type.  I rotate through the
cars, as long as the weather is nice, keeping the batteries charged
and the seals wet.  I also try to never forget how lucky I am to have
these cars.

I have to say, those Whitworth tools are the second best shop tools
I've ever bought.  The first, without doubt, is those four casters
under the car, allowing easy movement for cleanup.  They are genius!

-rick

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Wed May 29 15:01:27 2013
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 23:01:27 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] '78 B licensed!
In-Reply-To: <51A4FF87.8@byu.net>
References: <51A4FF87.8@byu.net>
Message-ID: <004001ce5caf$afa19ec0$0ee4dc40$@planet.nl>

Good show!

Cheers,
Hans

-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens
Andrew Lundgren
Verzonden: dinsdag 28 mei 2013 21:04
Aan: mgs at autox.team.net; bmcu at autox.team.net
Onderwerp: [Mgs] '78 B licensed!

My new to me '78 B is legally licensed!

Had to share.

--
Andrew 

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Thu May 30 16:22:12 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 17:22:12 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Frame painting begins
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dxNbFuiX29eKufFo-JYpDi2YF3fosvgPNe2ujo8k7VGfA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Friends,

Limited prose this evening, plus a few pictures.

I have painted part of the frame with POR15.  I've also cleaned and
refinished the left rear axle and hub.  I'll replace the brake shoes
and rebuild the slave cylinder later.  Here are a couple of pictures.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130530_104439.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130530_105247e.jpg

I also discovered that the rubber spacers for the rear hinges are not
in the rubber kit I have so I have ordered them and the pads at the
axle attachment.  I also ordered all new brake lines.  I have the new
flex hoses and copper sealing washers.  Here is a pictures of the
spring, as removed.  I'll write more when the bits arrive and assembly
begins.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130530_074801.jpg

I also ordered all new brake lines.  I already have the new flex
hoses.  Here are a couple of pictures, mostly to aid in proper new
line routing.  I'll write more when the bits arrive and assembly
begins.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130530_161434.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130530_161453.jpg

And that's it.  Tomorrow I will continue working the left side of the
rear frame.

-rick

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Fri May 31 11:43:12 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 12:43:12 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Refinishing the diff.
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dzrsTZmD76Hv9FqVpS2d4kmN12aon8gthi0m4Ew7wNFwA@mail.gmail.com>

Hello Friends,

Yesterday I commented that my quest for this morning was to clean more
of the rear axle and the diff.  That plan went well, leaving the
garage AND me uber-messy.  Allow me to share a few pictures.

Here's how the rear of the diff looked when I started.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130530_161508.jpg

Here's how it looks today.  Notice the brake fluid 3-way fitting.  It
has been cleaned, inside and out, polished and clear-coated.  Its
awaiting the new flex line and the hard lines out to the wheel
cylinders.  The flex is in hand, the hard lines will be here Tuesday.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130531_113303.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130531_113312.jpg

Once the paint dries, I'll drain the diff. fluid and replace it with
fresh, new Redline 90 weight hypoid oil.  (Yes, I have learned the
hard way; ALWAYS verify that the filler port can be opened BEFORE
draining the oil!)

And as I worked on the pumpkin, I realized that I couldn't complete
this work properly without cleaning up the U-joint too.  Here's how it
looked when I started.  That's A LOT of grimy grease!

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130530_161527.jpg

Here's a look after degreasing and refinishing.  I'll finish the prop
shaft later.  I'll also pump new grease into the U-joint once the
paint dries.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130531_120351.jpg

I'm debating whether to clean up the front U-joint and expansion slide
now or refurbish it later when I pull the gearbox.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130530_161518.jpg

I think I'll wait.  Either way, I now have to clean up the garage!!!

-rick